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The road from Astana to Karganda was even better than expected!
A photo of a gas station attendant in Astana; Ablai is originally from Taraz and spoke great English! He was very excited to see us as it was his first time meeting travellers. So it made me very happy to give him a kangaroo keyring to remember the travellers by https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c5&oe=5DE4EAFB While I had information that it was motorway, I was expecting to be around 250km as per Google As the signs started indicating only 170km, I started thinking, ok, this is going to be a super short day In the first hour, I blasted along at 120kmh and decided to stop for some water. I’d mentioned before about the roadside bays where people could work on their cars but had only seen them used occasionally. So when I saw an Audi up on the ramps with a gearbox lying next to it, I went for a closer look. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2d&oe=5DCD87CC As I walked around, a guy popped out from underneath asking for a cigarette; sorry, haven’t got one But slowly, we started talking more. As the gearbox to the side would indicate, Uslan was having transmission issues with his old Audi. https://scontent.fhrk1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5DE22032 I saw him struggling with a wrench to get a bolt off so I ran back to my bike to get a breaker bar; perfect! It was off But now he needed a specific sized allen key to get the driveshafts off. We tried every tool I had and when the Japanese bikers pulled up behind me, we rummaged through their toolkits as well to no avail. It wasn’t too hot today but still hot enough for someone pulling a gearbox on the side of the road; I gave Uslan one of my bottles of water. But this part needed to come off. Maybe from the outer side? So off came the wheel and Uslan once again started trying various methods which included big hammers and planks of wood. Finally, with enough force, it was off! https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5DDC259E At this point, I was now officially employed in the process after being given my own set of gloves to help prop up the gearbox while he undid the final bolts. https://scontent.fhrk1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5DCE1BD5 As I held up the gearbox from the rear with oil dripping all over me, it seemed it was now hanging by some feed/drain lines only. https://i.ibb.co/r3g1b9P/Uslan-Service.jpg I stepped away as Uslan went around finding various bolts and screws and just when my head was turned, it fell to the ground with an almighty thud. Success! It had been a couple of hours now since I first pulled up so after checking that he didn’t need any further help, I finally took off again. Every time I think it’s going to be a short simple ride, the day always finds something interesting to send my way |
- THE LONG WAY AROUND (TO ALMATY) –
I’ve now been in Almaty for over a week so I guess better get to it and finish the write up of how I actually got here! As mentioned previously, the direct road, of 1200km, from The Russian/Kazakh border at Semey to Almaty was said to be so bad that it broke peoples frames and suspension. So, I am taking the longer, 2500km, route around; the last 600km of which is said to be quite full of nothingness with a 200km patch said to be quite rough. The first 400km stretch from Karaganda to Balkhash was fair although the road did change from a dual carriageway to a single lane each way. The road out of Karaganda; going to be a lot nicer to do this stretch once construction has been completed in 2023 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5E1270C4 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b1&oe=5DD029F4 As I ride through the desolate nothingness, I wondered how it would have been in the days of the Silk Road caravans; moving slowly through the heat https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4a&oe=5DDFBFF3 Road condition starts degrading https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0e&oe=5DDDA140 Vast open nothingness https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d6&oe=5DDB171A The town of Balkhash itself was very chill with many people out and about in the evening by the lake side https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...63&oe=5E1292E7 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9e&oe=5DC7B887 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b7&oe=5DE1DDBB https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a5&oe=5DE0E92E https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5DDC30C9 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...55&oe=5DE6866A The following morning, we set out again for the first half of the 600km stretch that was said to be quite bare in terms of amenities such as fuel, accommodation and food. https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9b&oe=5E16338E https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9e&oe=5DE6C99B https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...91&oe=5E126222 While the road was still decent, finding a place to stay for the night proved challenging. At first, I thought to try and camp by the lake and ventured in 7km off the main road down a heavily corrugated road. Getting to the lake proved antclimatic as the shore was littered with garbage and there was simply no shade at all. It also didn’t help that iOverlander reports of campsites nearby had wolf sightings too! A small village water pumping station en route to trying to find the campsite https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...70&oe=5E123ECD https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E14C663 Ok, onto the next option; there was a small town nearby that listed 2 gastinitsas or the café on the main road where we had turned off may have some rooms too. We decided to venture another 5km down terrible roads only to find a real dump of a town wanting exorbitant prices! Back to the highway we go for option 3; the road was still heavily corrugated but I was a little fed up at this point so the bike took the brunt of my mood, flying over the bigger corrugations at 50kmh. Finally back at the café on the main road, they had some rooms attached to the café but no shoers, no toilets and no airconditioning. However, at $5 a night, it’d do just fine. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E14C663 A namazkhana at the truck stop; prayer room https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...96&oe=5DCC4306 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...13&oe=5DD0C6DF Over dinner at the café we met a Czech biker coming from the opposite direction who described the road as “sh*t, sh*t and more sh*t”; this was a little worrying. We also provided her some road advice on Mongolia as she was having second thoughts on whether she would be able to do it. This friendly police officer came to our table and we all went quiet, thinking, what have we done?! Turns out he just wanted to talk. He had studied in Boston but was now a police officer. We spoke about what Kazakh roads and speeding fines were like and whether Kazakh police were corrupt His answer, “Oh I’m too shy to answer that!” https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5E15B9A7 Unfortunately the nights sleep wasn’t great with trucks constantly coming and going all night along with a room that was quite warm. https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d8&oe=5DDBD197 Luckily we got a room just in time as this sign of "no more rooms went up shortly after! https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E13A3CD The following morning we set off and within 20km, the road turned bad. It was still single lane tarmac, however, it was very damaged. https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ee&oe=5DD49E41 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...23&oe=5DD45BE6 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5b&oe=5DDB34BE https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DD5BE97 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...58&oe=5E14BDEB https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0a&oe=5DC85281 As we travelled along though, it wasn’t anywhere near as bad as had been described by the Czech girl. It was slow for sure, but manageable. Finally, about 100km outside Almaty, the road improved and to my surprise, the horizon filled with the sight of snow capped mountain ranges. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ff&oe=5E142A90 If this was any indication to go by, the next 4 nights I’d booked in Almaty were going to be a great place to rest and recover! |
- ALMATY (PART ONE) -
What a city! The first night started off right with finding a café next to the hotel that had some killer shashlik; looks like it’ll become the ‘úsual’ meal spot https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c9&oe=5DD35A13 Dinner with Yosuke and Hide who have been with me since the end of Mongolia and Brian from Denmark who I had been speaking with on Facebook to form a group to cross China but we happened to arrive in Almaty at the same time https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ed&oe=5DDDC19C The first full day I had pencilled to get the bike sorted starting with changing this damn front tyre I’ve been lugging around since Barnaul Now one thing I forgot to mention in my last update is that on the last stretch to Almaty, I spotted a crack in the rear tail plastic underneath where the tyre was sitting. https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5DDF7529 Of course, how could I have been so silly. The tyre was resting loosely on the actual plastics rather that on the subframe like the luggage. The last stretch of bad tarmac and the abuse on corrugated roads while trying to find camp must have caused the tyre to smack the plastic and crack the tail. No big deal, in my mind I was already thinking of a couple of ways to fix it 1. Just duct tape the whole thing up, just a crack so it won’t be that bad 2. Drill some holes and stitch the crack up with zip-ties 3. Find a plastic welding place 4. Seeing as Kazakhstan is full of sportbikes and Almaty is bound to have even more, maybe even source a 2nd hand tail piece. However, when I went to take the tyre off the bike for the first time since seeing this crack, the true extent of the damage was revealed. The whole rear plastic had been smashed completely off the subframe and was hanging about an inch lower now, held in place only by the mounting clips at the front; this was a big problem. https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c1&oe=5DCDFCE2 https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...37&oe=5E137283 https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...03&oe=5E0C5348 Yet again, luck was on my side. A local biker named Daniyar who had caught a taxi out to meet me told me about a place called Master Plastic which just happened to be 1km from where I was staying! Mainly seemed to be dealing in repair for car front and rear bars https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6b&oe=5E0BCF27 So, I headed over there and despite a lack of English, we were able to determine exactly what needed to be done. https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e5&oe=5DE0E34B https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...31&oe=5E0AB328 $8AUD and 45 minutes later, the tail was back on as good as new! https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...79&oe=5DCCEDEE Now to get rid of this damn tyre. I put the tyre on around my waist and headed over to the Freerider workshop in the centre of town to get my front tyre changed after a good 10,000km life. With that sorted, it was now over to the Japan Bikes shop which was literally next door to my hotel to buy heated grips. I had been told by other places in town that it would be impossible to find them in summer but, luck prevailed again. Although I got the grips installed fairly easily on my own, it would have to wait for me to road test them as I got knocked out by some strange combination of a stomach bug and fever which had me in bed for nearly a day and a half. Maybe I’d need to rest up a little longer in Almaty…could think of much worse places to be stuck! https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9d&oe=5DD44E95 |
- ALMATY (PART TWO) –
Seeing as I had been knocked out of commission for nearly two days, I decided to book another 3 nights in Almaty. The hotel was nice enough and I really wanted to do at least one day ride out somewhere. Plus it would allow me to try and avoid some forecasted rain Throughout this trip I keep thinking that I am mostly just riding from point to point and not doing much sightseeing. However by the time the ride has finished for the day it is usually evening and I am too tired If I do take days off, they’re mostly spent tidying up things on the bike, sorting out equipment, doing admin type things like updating my expense tracker or even these blogs which I am doing my best to maintain on Facebook, Instagram and 2 forums all with slightly different content to share as much as I can. And if not any of the above, simply resting in bed. My body has come a long way since Vladivostok where I was complaining about all sorts of pain. The back pain is only popping up now after extended periods of riding but goes away fast, now its just a general body soreness but nothing too bad. The worst is that every morning I wake up with my fingers aching a lot and recently they’ve even started locking up at a certain point before extending further too; not sure what that’s about. Other than that, long days of off road cause my wrists to swell a little which I’m sure I’ll have to endure for the duration of the Pamir which will be coming soon. Anyway, back to the riding! With new heated grips on, I decided to take a trip up to Big Almaty Lake, perched high up in the mountains to the south of Almaty and what a view it was! The heated grips were also amazing, so happy to have them on. My hands hurt like hell in Mongolia at only 2500m, so the Pamirs at nearly 5000m are surely going to test me. https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...68&oe=5E0B4779 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1d&oe=5DDDEEC9 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3e&oe=5E0BEC85 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5DDF3BD3 In the evening, I had made contact with the Almaty Bikers group on Instagram, so just like Astana, they came in a group to take me out! https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6b&oe=5DE0C7D6 One of my favourite photos; WHY A GIXXER? I’m often asked this question and the simplest response I have is, because its my bike. I’ve owned this bike for over 10 years now where it has gone from being a weekend toy to a track bike and finally a travel bike. I have travelled other parts of the world on other GSXR600s but this one is mine. I have a fascination with seeing numberplates in places where they don’t belong. So seeing this photo from a night out with Almaty Bikers makes me so happy to see my standard Sydney numberplate alongside Kazakh plates in Almaty. Of course it’s an added bonus that the photo is taken from another Gixxer nearly the same as mine Once I am home, I look forward to taking a few minutes every now and then to just look at this bike and know in my mind all the places it has been. My bike. https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4b&oe=5DD49AB1 We first went up to Medeu, up another hill near the city, which has a large ice skating rink. This is where the locals come to cool off when it gets just too hot in the city Kiril in the middle and Stas to the right, from Almaty Bikers https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5DD4002C After that, we were taken to a nice restaurant in the city where the main admin of the Instagram page with whom I had made contact, Stas, paid for everyones dinner as it was his 31st birthday! Interesting point about Stas, as we were exchanging Facebook details, I realised that we were already friends on Facebook….but how? A few months ago, I had been in touch with a biker from Holland, Peter Muurman, who had done Central Asia and also Africa on his Ducati 996. He had told me to get in touch with a guy named Stanislav in Almaty as a good contact; turns out Stanislav and Stas were one and the same, I just didn’t realise it till a couple of hours after we’d met! With Kiril and Stas https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...24&oe=5E0A9196 From there, it was onto the Almaty late night hangout where bikes, modified cars and police all congregate; just like the Astana hangout! https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5E159D59 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5DCB7182 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...43&oe=5E0AB499 Both these places brought back memories of home for me; having owned several heavily modified cars, I had spent many a late night at places like this. Wonderful people, everything I needed to fix the bike and a beautiful city; I was going to miss Almaty… https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...eb&oe=5E0D1677 |
(Catch up; Charyn Canyon, Kazakhstan to Karakol, Kyrgyzstan)
- A NIGHT IN THE CANYON – After parting ways with the other bikers, it was time to find a place to camp for the night. Unfortunately, due to previous incidents of bikes riding down into the canyon and getting stuck (Ewan and Charley of Long Way Round fame being one of them), it was prohibited to really get much further than the entrance. Even so, we found a spot overlooking the Valley of Castles and set up for the evening. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=5DF383DE https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5DF71769 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c4&oe=5DFC2A73 After a nice dinner, I tucked in for the night but was curious about how bright it seemed outside despite being almost 10pm. It was a full moon! Unfortunately, I was not carrying my DLSR and unlike my Android phone which I lost in Russia, the iPhone didn’t have any ability to try some long exposure shots. But seeing the night sky and 2 shooting stars in the middle of the vast canyons is something I won’t soon forget The following morning, it was onwards to the small border with Kyrgyzstan. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5E08CF90 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8c&oe=5E379277 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5E0A5DC3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c5&oe=5E05B7BF The majority of the road to the border wasn’t bad at all with only the last 10km being a bit of an unpaved mess. Met a Russian biker coming the other way who as usual was surprised with our choice of bikes to head into the Pamirs with https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9f&oe=5E3D3D5A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d8&oe=5E3DAD3C The border crossing for both sides together took less than half an hour! Best one yet Unfortunately, that’s where the easy morning ended. Right after the border the road all but disappeared and turned into rock and heavily damaged asphalt. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...59&oe=5E3A6A5B Some Russian bikers coming the other way had said it was like this the whole 150km to the next town of Karakol. I was hoping and praying that they were somehow wrong and my research on iOverlander stating it was only poor for 40km was correct https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f1&oe=5E0A865B As always, my research trumped listening to others and within 37km we were back on good roads towards Karakol. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b6&oe=5E00D9C4 It seemed that luck was again on my side as the roads were quite wet suggesting we’d just missed a big downpour. Pulling into Karakol, I found a nice little homestay which was very homely (as the name may suggest I guess) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...82&oe=5E0CBACE When I asked them about dinner, they suggested a stolovaya around the corner (a type of eatery typically found in Russia where there is a canteen with various dishes and you select which ones to add to your plate to make a meal) However when I got into this place it was the complete opposite to what I was expecting! There were about 6 different small outlets with foods ranging from traditional to western and a setup where you sit down in comfy booths with 6 different menus and the waitress will let you pick and choose what you want and bring it all back from the various places. I decided to treat myself to two burgers, fries and a caramel milkshake. However as my hunger was slowly satiated the weariness took over and I probably could have fallen asleep right there in the booth. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5E0929C3 Time to rest up to continue on through Kyrgyzstan and see what it has to offer |
Waking up in Karakol, I realised had probably the best sleep I’ve had in a long time; didn’t wake up once for 9 hours straight!
After some quick morning maintenance, I set off towards the nearby Issyk-Kul Lake which I was hoping to get to the other side of today. A bit of help with maintenance https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5DF85A5E And some security too https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3c&oe=5DFD75A7 One thing on my mind was Kyrgyz police. So, just like Kazakhstan, I was doing my best to observe speed limits which can be tough given poor signposting. A biker back in Kazakhstan had told me that she had just blown past any attempts by police to pull her over; not sure if I was quite ready to employ the same technique. But then came the moment of truth. A police car had passed when I was pulled over for some water so once I was back on the road I should have known there may be a chance they’d be up ahead. But being pre-occupied with dodging potholes, I didn’t see them till it was right in front of me with the police waving the baton to pull over. Flight or fight … I knew I was under the limit and the police car was parked with its bonnet up and the other cop chilling in the passenger seat; they didn’t seem too keen on this so I gassed it. Kept checking my mirrors for the next 10 minutes but no harm done. They were probably just looking for an easy pay day As I got closer to the lake shore, it was very cool to see bright blue skies and blue water on one side while the other side was grey skies and tall, snowy mountains. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0f&oe=5E05D9FA https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...50&oe=5DFA6EE1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...eb&oe=5E0BFB74 Coffee break by the lake https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ec&oe=5DF1B5C3 An abandonded yurt camp alongside the lake with some beautiful murals all around https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cc&oe=5E0952A3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d4&oe=5DFC7ECC Even on the opposing cliff side https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c8&oe=5E01F33D I was also noticing a lot more cyclists on the road; perhaps a popular country to travel overland by bicycle The stay in Balykchk was fairly uneventful. Just another hotel, lagman (traditional noodle dish) for dinner and rest. A traditional Australian meal in the depths of Kyrgyzstan; a servo sausage roll https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5DEF7776 Onwards to Bishkek, the capital, the following morning What was really disappointing was the road was a beautifully surfaced dual carriageway but limited to 60kmh! While it was tempting to open it up a little, there were numerous warnings on iOverlander about police with speed traps set up throughout the canyons. And sure enough, there they were. However, despite my best efforts, I still got pulled over. I was doing around 55kmh in a 60kmh zone but the policeman was trying to tell me it was a 40kmh zone due to construction. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5E043E53 After a couple of times of me challenging him to show me anywhere it said 40, he lost interest and told me to go, only to then pull over the next foreign plated car passing by. So again, seems like more of a money grab exercise. Getting into Bishkek was yet another big city but I was able to take some comfort for the next 3 days in a mammoth airBNB that was costing me less than a guesthouse once again. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...41&oe=5E0501EE https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...50&oe=5E08B6EB https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...84&oe=5DF53282 It was also a good opportunity to stock up on some essentials as well as nab myself a new jumper to add to my layering and hopefully be enough to combat the cold in the upcoming mountain passes. When walking around, I heard the unmistakable sound of a GSXR so ran across the road to check it out. Max, originally from Russia but now living in Bishkek with his 2008 GSXR600 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5DF81F7B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5E379768 Main square in Bishkek; lots of parks in this city to explore https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...78&oe=5E0BD444 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E3AF542 Changing of the guard at the flag in the centre https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3e&oe=5E038FDC |
Bishkek to Osh via Lake Toktogul & Naryn River
The ride from Bishkek to Osh was fairly long at 600km but oh so scenic! The initial plan to get it done in 2 days went out the door as I started stopping frequently for photos but also passing through small towns meant constant traffic (and of course police watching the speeds) The route took us along Lake Toktogul which was a bright blue and the Naryn River which was an almost unnatural emerald green. First view of Lake Toktogul https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E0554AE https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c7&oe=5E022516 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5DF0D3EB A mirror for the sky https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bc&oe=5DF7327D Lunch break by the lake (police not part of the plan) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9e&oe=5DFB9330 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d2&oe=5E0BF7CC Naryn River Just when I thought the view couldn’t get any better than the lake https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...85&oe=5E0259B0 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1d&oe=5DF0B597 On the way out of Bishkek, I was somewhat aware of there being a long and narrow tunnel on the way but it wasn’t until a local biker told us that the tunnel would be closed from 2pm till 5pm that there was a sense of urgency. Turns out that the tunnel is so narrow that traffic flow is controlled as large trucks cannot pass through in both directions at the same time https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5DEF918A As I started climbing the pass I noticed that the warning light was intermittently coming on at low revs….but every time I tried to take a second glance it would be gone https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...34&oe=5DFE170B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5E089D43 By the time I got to the top of the pass, and the start of the tunnel, it was 145pm; just in time. But right then, the bike completely cut out. Every time it started up again it would cut out instantly. With time running out, I started it up, kept the revs high and made my way into the tunnel. It was narrow! And the lack of lights meant I was travelling in near darkness with my little headlight being rendered useless by the haze of diesel smoke from trucks all around me. But after a stifling 10 minutes, I got out at the other and pulled over for the bike to shut down again. The only thing I could think of was that the perhaps my idle was too low so I tried bumping that up and voila, it runs! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5DF220F9 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b1&oe=5E01B4A6 Ah, such a nice view Let’s stop for a photo Hmm, bikes standing a bit upright but should be ok It seems a bit windy though... https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...92&oe=5DF2E82C DAMNIT https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...21&oe=5E0B9BAB Continued along the other side of the pass without incident but after a long day decided that Osh wasn’t possible today so called it a day about 50km short; of all places, at a spa resort! But the room was cheap enough and it was a place to rest! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...67&oe=5DF2627B A Mongol Rally car en route from UK https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c6&oe=5DFF10D3 Staying in a traditional Kyrgyz yurt https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4f&oe=5E032D56 An amazing spread for dinner https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...92&oe=5E375275 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5E3B6B02 The homestay hosts https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5f&oe=5E3A5D10 Never alone for long even during a quick road side break for water https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1c&oe=5E37566A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...65&oe=5DF3C232 These kids came running up from the river they were swimming in just to say hi! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...76&oe=5E0A633B The following days ride to Osh was fairly uneventful but I did take a little detour to stop in the town of Uzgen which had a minaret and mausoleum from the 11th century; the Silk Road days! The Uzgen Minaret https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5E3DED0F Uzgen Mausoleum https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f4&oe=5E0B14CA https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fe&oe=5DF1EB50 Getting into Osh it seemed like the forecast ahead was looking favourable for a clear route through the Pamir Highway across Tajikistan! Another Mongol Rally car in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e3&oe=5E067817 |
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- THE PAMIR HIGHWAY –
Osh is often regarded as a start/end point of the Pamir Highway. From what I’ve noticed, there are 2 kinds of travellers in Central Asia; those who have finished the Pamir Highway or those who are going to the Pamir Highway. It’s an infamous piece of road that stretches between Osh, Kyrgyzstan and Dushanbe, Tajikistan. Along the way a popular detour is the tough yet beautiful Wakhan Corridor which follows the Panj River with Afghanistan on the other side or the even more challenging Bartang Valley Now that I had finished crossing the vast expanse of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan it was time to get myself and my bike ready for the Pamir so Osh was the best place to not only get a couple of days rest but also tend to the bike as it was about 6000km since my last oil change in Mongolia and this time I wanted to do the filter too. Some much needed R&R in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e4&oe=5E07B221 The shop in Osh charged through the roof but I was able to pay $10 for half a days use of a shed in their backyard to work on the bike myself. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7c&oe=5DF4EF17 As I started pulling the bike apart however, I found a major issue. On both sides of the bike I have additional bracing rods going from pillion footpeg to rider footpeg which support the subframe and also act as bottle carriers. One of these was now hanging on for dear life due to missing bolts! No doubt rattled off from vibrations of the last 10,000km+ roads A bit of duct tape to patch up the plastics from the last tip over https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E095ECF But as always, issues pop up at the most opportune times! Already in a workshop, it wasn’t too difficult to source some new bolts and after a liberal application of LocTite get it all fixed up again (was hard to use it sparingly as it turns out that carrying a compressed bottle for months on end in luggage gets a bit messy) Onto the planned oil and filter change along with cleaning the air filter and the bike was set for the first leg toward the Pamirs A big old beast of a Unimog back at the hostel; these guys could go anywhere they wanted! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b1&oe=5E0C2163 A traditional samsa in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...da&oe=5DF09962 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...82&oe=5DF64B16 A not so traditional pizza https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fa&oe=5DF16F85 The first days ride itself was quite an easy one from Osh to Sary Tash, covering around 200km. The road was quite winding going from the tame 1000m elevation in Osh to a more respectable 3000m in Sary Tash. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E0C7E87 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5E367432 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...68&oe=5E3BA64E While the scenery was beautiful it wasn’t dissimilar to what I’d seen coming via Naryn Lake so I didn’t stop much. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2a&oe=5E3C9C85 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4c&oe=5DF62F77 Just outside Sary Tash https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f0&oe=5E3B2974 Parked up in the homestay in Sary Tash; this kid loved the bike so much he couldn't stop hugging and kissing it https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9a&oe=5DF99E5E https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...48&oe=5DFA8D16 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e2&oe=5E3AD11F Could feel the cold at this altitude as temps dropped quite suddenly once the sun started setting https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...29&oe=5DFC6703 Inside my room at the homestay https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5E01470C A slightly different samsa for dinner https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5E07F05E Rise and shine https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5E3AAD52 So I’d started climbing now (and taking altitude sickness pills just in case) but I think the toughest is yet to come with the next section being the first tougher, unpaved pass and across the border into Tajikistan https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5DF72463 |
Also, I love the use of the tool tube as an emergency frame slider. ;)
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- PAMIRS – THE DODGY TAJIK BORDER –
The first challenge in Sary Tash was getting the bike started. Despite getting it going after the tunnel yesterday, it once again would start but then die. I bumped up the idle and that seemed to get it going. Still not sure if it’s the colder temperatures or altitudes doing this but once its warmed up, I got the idle back down and everything was sweet Todays journey was only about 95km but it would have another obstacle; the Kyzyl Art Pass. Kyzyl Art Pass is a roughly 25km stretch that lies in no-mans land between the Kyrgyz border and the Tajik border (located just after the peak of the pass) Leaving Sary Tash with the Pamirs on the horizon https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5E373ADB https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c9&oe=5DFD26EE While the pass had a fairly tame elevation of 4200m, the concern was the surface. From all accounts, if there is any sign of moisture at all, rain, snow, anything, the pass turns into a mudpool and becomes near impassable Given that the GPS showed it was 45km to the border I started getting a little worried when 30km in, it looked like the road was still fairly flat. Passing the Kyrgyz border was fairly quick, just had to hand in the customs declaration form for the bike that I had gotten made up for the second time at the Mongolian/Russian border (1st time was when entering Vladivostok) First photo in no-mans land after crossing the Kyrgyz border https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...53&oe=5E095011 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e5&oe=5E02ADC3 As I continued plodding along into no-mans land and although the road surface got much worse, the incline was still barely there Then finally, there it was in front of us, Kyzyl Art Pass. Forget needing an incline gradient sign, we could see in front of us that the climb to the peak shot straight up. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b8&oe=5DF61A88 After a couple of obligatory photos by the sign before beginning the ascent. The road was covered not in usual dirt and rocks but a red dirt which was dry yet deformed with ruts from all the vehicles that must have gotten bogged whenever it was wet. It was very easy to see how this surface could become a veritable mudpool if wet and why people say to simply stay away from it in rain! But finally, after completing the whole climb in 1st gear, I was at the top next to the goat statue which I had seen in so many peoples photos over the years. I was truly overjoyed to finally be there even if it was a little hard to breathe at the high altitude. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2b&oe=5DF44E00 A look back at the red dirt climb just waiting to become a muddy mess https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...34&oe=5DF5454F Another couple of kilometres on and it was the Tajik border! But just like I had done my research to ensure dry conditions for the pass, I was also aware of the scams they try to run at the Tajik border While the first office is very friendly and processes your documents along with an official $10USD fee for road tax, it’s what comes after that is a little shady. While my documents were being processed, I was talking with a soldier, Farroukh, in passable English about how he was originally from Dushanbe but posted here for one year. He also enjoyed the Fast and Furious movies. However, once my documents were ready, he suddenly lost all his English and started gesturing for me to go to a second hut up on a hill. But I knew better. This second hut is where they try to demand fees for cleaning, veterinary tax, disinfection or whatever else they may make up. From other travellers reports, refusal is often met with abuse and anger. So I just straight up refused to go anywhere, stating that all my documents were done so I should be allowed to pass. Farroukh did half-heartedly try a couple of times but finally opened the gates and I was into Tajikistan!! The pass on the other side was still unpaved but much better than the red dirt and in no time I was gazing upon the beautiful Karakol Lake alongside which I would be spending the night in a small homestay for my first night in Tajikistan. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cf&oe=5E3571C4 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...86&oe=5E02D6DF A fence running alongside is no-mans land towards the Chinese border Someone left this gate carelessly open... should I? https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...87&oe=5E3BFF8E A downed bridge after the Tajik border that everyone said results in a water crossing that was extremely fast and deep after 2pm as the snow melts increase I was rushing to try and beat it only to find it bone dry Lucky! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8c&oe=5DFE1744 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b9&oe=5E049BFE Karakol Lake coming into view https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9d&oe=5E3AE1A0 Homestay in the very small village of Karakol https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ab&oe=5DF961CD The town is nothing more than a few shacks https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...67&oe=5DFDFEDC Children of Karakol https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...94&oe=5E053006 Homestay Sadat https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5e&oe=5DF32A53 |
Excellent write up, planning a trip in the opposite direction from the UK next year if all planets line up! Thanks for the effort to document!
Gino & Fiona |
PAMIR – THE LAST BIT OF ASPHALT
Leaving Sary Tash I had the same problem again of getting the bike started but as usual, bumping up the idle temporarily, got it going. Leaving Sary Tash https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a6&oe=5DF97463 Today I’d be taking on the highest pass along the Pamir Highway at 4600m, Ak Baital Pass. However it wasn’t as steep on either side as yesterday and didn’t have that terrible red mud. As I made my way up to the climb of the pass over the heavily corrugated road I had one of my moments where I wonder why the hell I am doing this to myself. Do I really want to subject myself to even more pain in doing the Wakhan Corridor?! I hate corrugations https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ab&oe=5E04A725 iOverlander said there was a caravanserai along the road (a roadside inn from the days of the Silk Road) but I couldn’t find it plus I was getting real fed up of the corrugations; maybe I’ll try harder on the way back On the approach to Ak Baital; climbing off in the distance https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0c&oe=5E396D98 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...de&oe=5E01957E At the peak, met a Mongol Rally team who were far behind the rest of the pack but told me they were perhaps the most travelled having covered 13,000 miles so far! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6a&oe=5DFD7C0E https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5DFCD7B7 Shortly after, I tried using my drone to do a follow-me video where the drone follows the rider but of course it didn’t work and I spent half an hour hoping and praying while walking round trying to find the drone after it ran out of battery and landed somewhere. I was knackered after just a bit of walking, how the hell are cyclists doing this?! Meeting a Ukrainian biker on the other side of the peak https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...26&oe=5E392959 An abandoned village https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f0&oe=5DFE9902 Getting into Murghab was a slight surprise as I thought it was going to be a city but turned out to be another village with just slightly more shacks. Went down to the bazaar made up of shipping containers and bought a SIM card with a 15GB plan only then to realise that Tajikistan has next to no mobile coverage through most of the country so I’d be lucky to even use 1GB. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b8&oe=5DFDFBED The town water pump with a lady shovelling coal in the back Such a tough life it must be, especially in winter https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...54&oe=5E0C54B7 Looking back at the way we came https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0d&oe=5E00C991 Getting back from the bazaar however I had a big surprise in meeting two Italian bikers with whom I had last crossed paths in Mongolia! They had a bit of a problem where they’d been counting on getting cash out in Murghab only to find that none of the ATMs worked. Now they only had $30USD between the two of them for all of Tajikistan! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...47&oe=5E3A0660 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5DF4F495 Room with a view https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5DF4F495 Maintenance time in Murghab before the Wakhan Note the bicycle in the back. So much easier to do your chain with the whole thing upside down! Also the first Aussie I’ve actually met in this whole trip! From the inner-West suburbs https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...79&oe=5E0B32FC After a days rest in Murghab, filled up fuel and set off to Alichur 100km away. A very small town but right after Alichur is the turn off to the Wakhan Corridor so I would rather do that as a fresh day on its own as the first leg is about 130km. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E3714ED https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f9&oe=5DFCFCF7 Quite an uneventful but windy day made up of damaged asphalt with an average speed of 40kmh. Came across a Dutch biker on a big GS who had a Grossglockner sticker from Austria on his bike same as mine! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5c&oe=5DF40CED The guesthouse is Alichur was nice and comfortable with electricity only provided by generators in the evening. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5DFBBA23 I was starting to feel very nervous and anxious about the Wakhan Corridor On one hand, everyone says it is beautiful but on the other, my bike really isn’t suited for all this offroad stuff and besides being slow and difficult, it’s causing me pain as well… |
PAMIR – WAKHAN BEGINS
This was the day I was equal parts dreading and looking forward to; turning into the Wakhan Corridor. A route along the Wakhan Valley that runs along the Panj River with Afghanistan on the other side. I was looking forward to seeing life in Tajikistan, and Afghanistan across the river, with the beautiful views in between however was not looking forward to the road. Nearly every blog I read had stories of people crashing, deep sand, gravel and so on. I had met people who had told me about not if they had fallen off but how many times they had fallen off. People hired cars to send their luggage ahead. Although I’d only done 100km since yesterday, I thought it prudent to top up fuel before heading off. Of course, from a traditional Tajik bucket system in a non-descript house https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...54&oe=5DF7F261 As we pulled up to the little unmarked turn off 24km from Alichur, it was make or break; continue along the highway or turn off into the dirt. I turned off. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5DF6B9AD Nearly right after turning in, there was light sand on the surface over corrugation which then turned into much deeper sand as we neared a small lake https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a7&oe=5E3A8514 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E3BB538 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a3&oe=5DF7DDD6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5DFA8290 From there it just got tougher with long stretches of a mix of sand and gravel around 20cm deep till we started clmbing up the very rocky and narrow Khargush Pass And as if climbing wasn’t hard enough, on the way down the other side of the pass, the front wheel rolling off rounded rocks nearly sent me off the edge of the cliff https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e9&oe=5DF687C5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DF3A250 There weren’t too many other vehicles on the road; passed one Mongol Rally team who was waiting for their car to cool down a little and got passed by the big Unimog wed met in Osh except this time there was another Unimog with them! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...09&oe=5E037ACA The Panj River comes into sight... and sound. The force of the flow was so strong you could hear it Also the first time I could distinguish Afghanistan as being right across the other side https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...47&oe=5DF2F2CF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5E33AC57 As the day rolled on, we were only averaging about 10kmh so finally around 5pm decided to call it a day having only made it halfway to Langar (most people complete the trip to Langar in a day) and found a camp spot which was perfect! Secluded from the windy, a soft sandy base and someone had already set up a little kitchen with rocks! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5DF3EF64 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f1&oe=5E3851C5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e0&oe=5DFA011F I’d been carrying a few tea bags since Almaty (nicked from a guesthouse) Just for such an occasion https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...16&oe=5E388CAA https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8d&oe=5E0ABE30 |
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Are you doing the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan corridor, or actually going into Afghanistan? How difficult was it to do the visa stuff? |
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