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Russia, Mongolia, Stans & Beyond - On a GSXR
Over the years, I've had a couple of failed attempts at starting and completing ride reports
However I really want to share with this community as I feel it has always given me so much in the way of inspiration and information ever since I attended my first HU back in 2013. So I would like to make the effort to to write a ride report here to document not just the ride itself but also the lead up which has brought me to the point of executing my 'trip of a lifetime'; a decade in the works. As of today, I am exactly 4 weeks out from my bike, a 2007 Suzuki GSXR600, being air freighted from Sydney, Australia to South Korea and onto a ferry to Vladivostok, Russia where the riding begins. From there, I head West into Mongolia, Central Asia and towards India. I feel like I have a lot to share that has led up to this moment both from a personal development perspective but also preparation so I will endeavour to write that as time permits to highlight how an idea gradually developed over time and the challenges to overcome. As of last night, I am finally happy with how the bike is after a few mechanical issues so I'll share that picture to start off this RR :) https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c84c2561_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cb37fd10_z.jpg A little lie.... the above text is from my post on another forum a month ago! I am going to bring both upto the same level and then update both together! |
Looking forward to the story - best of luck on writing it - that's always the hardest part, but doable once you get down to it.
We need more of a side view of the bike - looks interesting, especially tire choice! |
This is interesting indeed and as Grant says, and interesting Tyre choice for a Gixxer. Ride safe. I am also starting from the UK today on my way to India, so see you on the road somewhere [emoji4][emoji106]
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk |
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I'll take this opportunity to give some background on my riding/travel-riding and how I've slowly worked upto this particular trip When backpacking in Asia around 2009, I saw a motorcycle rental place in Chiang Mai, Northern Thaliand and decided to see where I could head on an overnight trip. So with my work backpack bungee-d to the back, I did an overnighter to Pai. An awesome stretch of road! Still wasn't aware of the concept of long-distance motorcycle travel though https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...917938d2_z.jpg Back in Asia on another trip in 2010, this time I decided to venture further past Pai and do the 'Mae Hong Son Loop' which was even more amazing than the ride to Pai. Still no proper luggage but armed with a paper map of the loop this time. What really sparked my interest this time was seeing another bike parked at a guesthouse along the way with Australian plates. Ever since then I've had a fascination of seeing my bikes number plates in far off places where it shouldn't be. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...86cedc16_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...605a4dec_z.jpg Once back home, I had now gone from being a weekend road-rider to being addicted to track days with a count of 14 in the space of 12 months ... till I lowsided and trashed my precious GSXR; my first bike besides my dad's RG125 that I had learnt on https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...40ef81f0_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...42a5c12e_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...eb47125e_z.jpg Since it was no big deal to get a few scratches on it now, I figured I may as well explore my own backyard and did two local rides. The first over the course of a week down through the Southern Alpine region of Australia (with a borrowed tailpack and road atlas) and the next up through the outback to North Queensland and back down the coast (with my first piece of luggage, a tail mounted Kriega bag) ... which also taught me how boring the inner reaches of this country actually are. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...23c9a15d_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...372fe835_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...44c2eb50_z.jpg In 2013, my uncle living in India proposed riding the Himalayas region of India, well known for its mountain passes such as Chang La and Khardung La. Although I was already traveling in Brasil, it was an opportunity too good to pass up, especially as he was giving me full use of his baby-KTM https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fdab9d14_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1f22ee11_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9a1a59f2_z.jpg All this while, I had still been backpacking through Asia, Middle East, South & Central America but I wanted more. So I embarked on my first 'big' overseas ride in 2014 with 8 weeks through the South-West of USA. The idea had initially been coast to coast after a week in Vegas but I decided to focus on the one region more so as to really get the most out of my time there rather than just miles under my belt. - Half assed ride report here, however over on ADVRider, excuse the lack of one here https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...33bf4b48_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ff88e4a8_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...43d75f79_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8f1880be_z.jpg In 2015, my brother who had been studying in Holland was thinking of a ride after his semester wrapped up so it was over to Holland to ride to Turkey and back on yet another GSXR (Yet another incomplete ride report here ... again on ADVRider https://live.staticflickr.com/8070/2...24276bc7_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/4159/3...4261af47_z.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4204/3...cebf7e9d_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4195/3....jpg[\img] |
So, it looks like I'm already a month behind from my first post stating I was going to be better at this! As we speak, I am in a hostel in Seoul, South Korea feeling like I am way too old to be in a hostel now. It reminds me that the last time I backpacked was in 2012 when I was 24 and even then I felt too old.
Anyway, all in the name of cheap accommodation! So since, I last posted, my feelings of fear and trepidation kept playing on my mind. It's all well and good to talk about I'm going to do this and that but when it's actually happening it's a bit unnerving. A shortlist of fears - I've really chosen a terrible bike - How can I carry the right mix of spares, tools, and things I need to survive - Do I really need camping gear, it takes up so much space and how often am I really going to camp? - I really hope I don't screw up bad... when I had always dreamt of this trip all the way up to 2017 where I had to cancel 2 weeks out from leaving, I was single. I got married earlier this year and as cheesy as it sounds, I really would think it'd be nice to come back in one piece On Friday 14th June I drove my bike from my home to Matzen Cargo near Sydney Airport who would be sending the bike to South Korea for me via air freight. In order to save on freight costs, the bike needed to be sent without a battery or fuel. I thought I'd try and be smart and ride it there with low fuel. So, twice in a 50km journey the bike cut out due to running out of fuel on the highway. Luckily, my wife followed me with a jerry can. Now I know how the bike responds when it runs dry but fingers crossed its not an experience I'll be repeating After dropping off the bike, removing the battery and running it dry, it was off to the customs house to get the carnet stamped. Once that was dine, that was it, the bike was officially out of the country; on paper at least Before I'd even reached home, the bike was packed....next time I'd see it would be mainland Russia https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wx...bre_a9_A=w2400 Helmet and jacket sticky taped onto the seat...I hope that tape holds https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oB...IyFWQ=s1080-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8S...Bi92Q=s1080-no I can pretend to be riding a big BMW with the other overlanders I'm bound to meet on the ferry over from South Korea to Russia... at least till the box is opened and they shun me |
So after 2 nights in Seoul, I am now on the Eastern coast of South Korea in a small town named Samcheok about 6km from the Donghae ferry port (and also where my beloved bike is!)
I have to say, Seoul was just supposed to be a couple of nights to check out something different but I've thoroughly enjoyed the city, its people and its food! A couple of photos from my last 2 days before I venture out to find some dinner for tonight and rest up before tomorrows ferry...which I just realised I dont actually know the departure time of. Should probably check that out... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rU...w2140-h1606-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L1...w2140-h1606-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6z...w2140-h1606-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lZ...w2140-h1606-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yT...w2140-h1606-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MJ...w2140-h1606-no |
The ferry from Donghae, Korea to Vladivostok takes roughly 23 hours and actually comes from Sakaminato, Japan first.
After crossing immigration and boarding the ferry into my 2nd class room, my first thought was, ok, what am I going to do for the next 23 hours with nothing but 3 meal coupons to keep me company in the form of looking forward to the next meal time It wasn't long till I spotted a guy sitting in a common area whom I had seen walking around the port in what seemed to be bike gear. From there on, it was all about some of the amazing people on board and the stories they had to share https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...68&oe=5D7B2213 On the left, Taka, from Japan holding a sign in Russian stating that he is travelling across the world with his traditional Okinawan instrument. Not begging but any donations to an artist are appreciated! He also has a bicycle but doesn't consider himself a cyclist as he will be using other forms of transport as well On the right, Mehmet, orginally from Turkey but living in Wellington, NZ for the past 30 years. Not his first ride on his well worn old BMW but this time he plans to go to Turkey via Mongolia and the Stans via a route quite similar to myself so we had plenty to discuss! https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a9&oe=5D7B6E2B Shoi - A 70yr old Japanese man travelling with his wife who unfortunately is heavily disabled. They have been riding from Japan to Europe and back every year for the past 7 years with Shois current bike having 480,000kms on it! His previous bike, a GPX250 had 300,000km for a combined total of nearly 800,000kms over 20 years! This trip is a little different though. Nana had a big stroke in March and doctors told her she would need to spend her remaining time in hospital but they were determined to ride on https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f9&oe=5D827ACE On the right is Okita from Japan. I saw him in my room but didn't get a chance to speak to him till we were nearly at the end of our journey. However the term speak is very loose as he barely speaks a word of English! He had also done something strange where his bike was sent on some other ship and not the ferry we were on! Also riding the same bike as Shoi, hats off to the guy for going through without any English or Russian! https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5b&oe=5DB57AF9 Straight off the ferry and right to the walking strip in Vladivostok; Taka with his instrument https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...97&oe=5DB506AC Shoi with his trusty Kawasaki 650 https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cf&oe=5D83D9F0 2nd class room on the ferry https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bc&oe=5D8AD97D A nightclub on the ferry that I didn't quite get to check out https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e1&oe=5DB9D73F Coming into Vladivostok, I guess I missed a memo somewhere about Russian flag coloured tracksuits |
Once we were off the ferry, it was the usual customs procedures but every minute the customs officer took made me feel even nervous about the fact she would be looking at my business visa while I stood in front of her with pretty obvious motorcycle gear. Her calling her superior into the booth to clarify something definitely didn’t help but in the end I was through!
First bike I saw on the docks https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d4&oe=5D8C0D38 It was off to the hostel first with the well known freight agent, Yuri, though as customs formalities for the bike wouldn’t start till the following morning. At the Vladivostok Port with Yuri and Svetlana https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...af&oe=5D7B45AD A great chance to walk down to a waterside walking strip in Vladivostok to see people go about their evenings. The following morning we were picked up and taken to the port offices to start off some of the paperwork and told that unloading would happen around 3pm after which we wold be able to get our bikes! So, more free time and a nap to return at 3pm. As other slowly got their bikes and cars, I was the last one standing as my bike had come from Sydney, Australia in a crate and had not been unpacked in Korea but rather transported as cargo. https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e9&oe=5DBFA157 At 5pm, I saw the crate come out of the gates only for the forklift to reverse and take it right back in!! So, another hour till I finally got the crate out and started breaking it down to a sense of relief that the bike was in the box just as I had last seen it in Sydney! https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c4&oe=5DC150DC https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a1&oe=5D87FA73 A new battery and petrol (I had to remove both in Sydney for it to be taken over as non-dangerous goods) and it fired right up. https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...21&oe=5D785B91 https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2a&oe=5DBEAF16 The NZ biker, Mehmet had stayed back with me and after adjusting some luggage we ventured out for the short trip to our hostels….right through 7pm peak hour traffic of Vladivostoks one-way streets Not a long ride but my Aussie bike was finally on Russian soil! https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...45&oe=5DB51970 |
Well I’ve not gotten too far in the last 2 days.
Most people make the dash from Vladivostok to Khabarovsk in one day, however on the advice of my Japanese friend, I decided to do a 100km short day to Ussuriysk first. This worked out well as I spent the morning riding around Vladivostok trying to buy some chain lube and a way of acclimatising to riding because besides short test rides I actually haven’t ridden consistently in a couple of years! Got into the small city of Ussuriysk at a little motel surrounded by automotive battery shops. Once there I noticed my back hurt from the backpack and also one of my tail fairings was hanging off due to missing screws from back when I crashed the bike on track. The battery shops was notable because I had to buy a battery in Vladivostok since mine was removed for shipping. It’s a new Korean one but 120CCA vs my previous 135CCA ... hopefully not going to be an issue later on The back I’ll get used to, the bike, a bit of cable tie maintenance. Unfortunately, the plan to leave the following morning was dampened (pardon the pun) by rain. I looked up as many forecasts as I could and have decided to leave tomorrow morning instead…which could also be raining I’m in no rush but I would like to try and get to Mongolia in time for Nadaam I know the Turkish biker had ridden almost 2 days in the rain and been quite miserable so I really want to avoid it if possible. Plus the accommodation is cheap here, close to a huge supermarket for cheap eats…except everything smells like cigarette smoke… In other disappointing news, the Japanese biker has decided to head back home due to his wifes health and the Turkish biker has had an engine failure and is on a truck to Chita now… hoping for better luck my way tomorrow Leaving Vladivostok https://scontent-nrt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=5DBC4BFF A great supermarket with a couple of vodka selections... https://scontent-nrt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...63&oe=5DC4F346 Ussuriysk https://scontent-nrt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...24&oe=5D860368 https://scontent-nrt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5c&oe=5D81F1AA https://scontent-nrt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e7&oe=5D86E041 https://scontent-nrt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...70&oe=5D895156 Motel Blues https://scontent-nrt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c4&oe=5D7C6196 |
Things I can’t do; analyse weather
I thought that I would wait out an extra day in Ussuriysk as today would have some window of opportunity without rain. Turns out, it was even worse than yesterday. All packed and ready to leave ... in the rain https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...f1&oe=5DB597B6 I had to get out of there though, the smell of cigarettes was permeating my clothes and honestly making me feel sick A thorough muddy drenching all day long till I got to the small town of Bikin https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=5DC4E234 https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...21&oe=5DC22E8C https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...87&oe=5D802B57 https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...3f&oe=5D7E9C6D https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...f3&oe=5DB8E4D2 Although most of its roads are dirt it has a nice hotel which while on the pricey side, I really need to just rest and dry out what I can Big supermarket right next to the hotel was handy since the only other place to eat was a 'Chinese' place next door https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...4e&oe=5D7B0E38 https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...90&oe=5D840C73 https://scontent-frt3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...88&oe=5DC31A28 Was thinking to spend an extra day here to wait out the rain again but with everything already wet now, hardly any point Onwards to Birobidzhan tomorrow |
Today was a total rollercoaster; started off with low expectations in the wet but day progressively got better till a point I was near ecstatic with the improvement till moments later that excitement came crashing back down
I started off packing the bike in the rain again, resigned to another wet day. Didn’t really matter too much since most of my gear was damp anyway… so much for the fancy Klim jacket, Forma boots and Held gloves and all of their GoreTex Packing in the wet in Bikin https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...82&oe=5D801D96 I now understand why all I keep finding are Chinese restaurants https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...df&oe=5DAE064F A saving grace seemed to be that the road surface was much better than yesterday and there even some nice flowing corners but while the tyres were performing well enough in the wet I was too hesitant to tip in in the bike at 90km in the wet However within about 50km, the skies started opening up, started seeing more bikes and in general my mood just got so much better! What I was riding out of https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f3&oe=5DC09B17 But it was starting to open up in front! https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5c&oe=5DC0BBAE https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b3&oe=5D7F8C7E From there, the roads stayed well surfaced towards Khabarovsk and with a few 60/70 bends the riding got fun too. https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...54&oe=5DC40568 Coming into Khabarovsk https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2f&oe=5DAF16C2 I’m glad I followed advice to not stay in Khabarovsk as this was the only part of the day that was a bit congested, hot and dusty; like any city really. From there, I even had a chance to briefly meet my first Russian biker on an R1M with a group of friends from Vladivostok on sport bikes https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...cf&oe=5DC0BF77 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...86&oe=5D7F9547 Unfortunately, about 15 mins after that fuel stop I looked down to my RAM mount to see my phone….gone ☹ I rode the whole 20km back and forth again very slowly looking for any sign of it but it was well and truly gone. I guess navigation becomes a bit more challenging now Given it was already coming on 8pm I decided to give up and head into the town for the night at Birobidzhan; the main city in the Jewish Autonomous Region created by the Soviets as part of the ‘Birobidzhan Experiment https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2f&oe=5D785026 As I pulled up to my Airbnb, the host was outside working on his car (a new top of the line Landcruiser) in a shiny tiled garage where he also invited me to park the bike https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...dd&oe=5D7E634F The apartment itself seem to be brand new in a similarly brand new building. At less than the cost of a hotel with a kitchen, washer and an amazing bed, at least I could be in comfort while I lament over the loss of my phone https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d6&oe=5D84F2FF Noodles is all I'm really capable of cooking but I added fresh vegetables!! https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...92&oe=5DC0DE6F Walking to the supermarket it felt like quite a nice town too. These pipes ran along the road but not sure if they once (or still do) serve a functional purpose https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c8&oe=5DBACD6C https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...27&oe=5DB6B615 |
All very recognizable. The pipes everywhere are hilarious. I think in several towns they still function. Also in Central Asia. Sometimes a whole area can just smell like gas :( and you see these pipes, even running next to a school for example.
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Awesome adventure, thanks for bringing us along on it! If you get as far as Estonia, send me a message and I'll buy you a beer and show you around.
Can I ask what you've done to the bike ahead of the trip? I can see you've got knobbly tires - anything new in the suspension etc? Quote:
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Awesome adventure, thanks for bringing us along on it! If you get as far as Estonia, send me a message and I'll buy you a beer and show you around.
I'll be looping back down after Stans towards India, maybe next time! Can I ask what you've done to the bike ahead of the trip? I can see you've got knobbly tires - anything new in the suspension etc? The tyres were more of a trial a quick test at home showed slightly better traction and in my confidence on light gravel roads I've seen the odd sport bike post online after chucking them on for travel and they just end up being on normal European roads. Yesterday they were really put to the test and so thankful I threw them on (I'll be writing the latest update below) You'll be fine. I wasn't sure if the lower CCA may affect cold starts in colder climate as altitude increases Consider getting soft panniers or something like that on the road... riding with a heavy backpack is a quality-of-life issue. You can get used to it, but you'll enjoy yourself a lot more without it. My backpack is actually not too heavy, all I really have in it is my paperwork, a DJI Spark (no batteries) and my Surface Pro. I think its more so the hours on end spent hunched over on the bike and age catching up to me.. Hah, yeah - there's only so much Goretex can do! You can probably find a waterproof oversuit in a bigger city somewhere - it will not breathe, but it will keep you dry inside. I don't like the sweaty feeling either lol. This will have to do They certainly did once and maybe still do... apart from being cheap to put up, remember that this is a relatively earthquake-prone region. FWIW they still do this as a bypass when they are repairing underground pipes or building tunnels - you'll see pipes like that frequently in Berlin, for example, painted bright pink! I also got told by a Facebook follower that having them above ground helps deal with regions in which there is permafrost! |
So I didn't post an update here on my ride from Birobidzhan to Belogorsk because for lack of a better word; it was uneventful.
I only even had 2 photos to share from it which really aren't even that interesting https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e8&oe=5DC6BD67 https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...37&oe=5DC1F5A1 Yesterday certainly turned things around. As usual, I put my next intended city into the maps.me GPS application on my phone (my other phone..) and it made me a route out of Belogorsk and towards Magdagachi. Now to be fair, I did see that there were some unpaved roads on this route from the city back to the highway, however, I had noticed that the application sometimes picked up roadworks as unpaved and decided to carry on as roadworks were everywhere! So, I headed out from the hotel and went through the next couple of small towns running parallel to the highway; ok, roads not the best but had a chance to fill up I then got turned onto a road that seemed to be even worse running parallel to the train line; ok, I’m sure it’ll cut me across to the highway soon The road was just gravel….then deep gravel. Ok not so bad, good chance to see how these tyres perform as I had only briefly tried them on some loose gravel roads back home; good traction, bike was sliding around a bit but I had read to not fight the bars and just keep the power delivery smooth. Not dissimilar to riding on a wet track but it was pretty hot and dusty! https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e0&oe=5DC42CFB Ok finally, we are cutting across the train line and a long road now to re-join the highway. No more deep gravel but still unpaved; I can deal with this https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...30&oe=5D792990 The road slowly got narrower and turned into single track; ok, I can deal with this too… https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...35&oe=5DB50723 Single track now had overgrown bushes all along it smacking me in the knees and wrists and without me noticing, the tracks were now getting deeper too https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...97&oe=5DB36047 Before I knew it, I was at a small water crossing. Again, just as I had read, I got off, checked the depth and the best path through. The bike made it through well with just a little extra power out needed at the end to get the rear wheel out of the mud. Surely regular road tyres would have failed me here https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...02&oe=5DC24862 As I came out of the water and over a small crest, ahead of me lie deep tracks that were undoubtedly made by those big KAMAZ trucks with very aggressive tread https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ee&oe=5DBEA3A7 I took stock of how far I had come and (perhaps foolishly) decided to press on. From here on in, I didn’t have a chance to take many photos and it turned out the GoPro had run out of battery too; not that I noticed I was too busy wrestling the bike through, without a doubt, the worst “roads” I have ever ridden on. The track had turned into deep, muddy ruts with some just being massive ditches full of water where a previous truck had perhaps gotten bogged and been dug out. I was lucky that it had not rained for a day or so as I was able to find some dryer sections to go around the ditches in places. At the same time, I was very surprised in both the bikes and my ability to keep going. I didn’t drop the bike once even after making the mistake of putting my foot down for support and having it sink shin deep into mud The bike didn’t get much of a chance to get out of 1st or 2nd but every time the temps got high, the fans came on right on cue and knocked the temps back down. Finally, after 2 long hours, I covered approximately 50km and was back on the highway, never so glad to get onto mind numbing, straight tarmac again and onto more uneventfulness…. Or so I thought After about 45 mins, the rain started. I was passed by a big tourer type BMW with Russian plates; a quick wave and he blasted past. I saw him once again parked at a café next to the servo I was trying to get fuel at but nyet! No benzin I guess, I think the delivery hadn’t come yet At the next petrol station, there he was right behind me in the line! So, a quick hello and we started talking. https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f0&oe=5DAEC04A I still had about 120km to go till my intended town of Magdagachi for the night which had one gastinitsa (guesthouse) but also a risk it may be fully booked out! So when Vladimir invited me to stay at his place instead, I gladly accepted Only once we started riding I realised that after another 40km on the highway, we turned off to go deeper in 100km; a road which I would have to backtrack the following day to continue towards Mongolia But writing this now, I have no regrets about that whatsoever even though it has set me back another day. We got to the small town of Zeya and proceed to buy some groceries (basically meat and vodka) and head to his ‘dacha’ (a traditional Siberian summer house) and spent the night drinking, talking and grilling meat With Vladimirs dad; Boris https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f2&oe=5D7E3490 Getting the firewood ready https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c1&oe=5D7E5981 https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2c&oe=5DC19D43 https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ac&oe=5DB7E2B3 Vodka and starters https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1a&oe=5DAE5E00 One of the most amazing sunsets I have seen https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...44&oe=5DC0800E https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5DBCC8F6 https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DBE8F47 Cooking! https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5DB54828 https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...aa&oe=5DB79E17 https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...90&oe=5DBF67F5 https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...96&oe=5D7BB46D https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...05&oe=5D80FBFF So in writing this long update, what really I really wanted to get to was how this one day helped me. The previous night in Belogorsk I was feeling upset, angry and a whole bunch of emotions that I wouldn’t have thought I would be feeling when on my “dream trip” I was annoyed that I lost my phone, felt angry that it seemed someone had found it and not bothered to respond to my message asking for its return. How dare Russian people screw me over?! I was annoyed that my body was taking such a beating on this bike and that too, so soon into the trip I was worried that I was hearing of unseasonal rain in both Russia and Mongolia; would I even be able to try crossing Monglia? I was even more worried about this bike; I had always been adamant that I wanted to used my first bike but what the hell was I doing. All it did was cause me pain and it would most probably fall apart at the first sign of rough terrain. So after going to bed with all this in my mind, to be challenged with the toughest roads I’ve ridden so far and come out of it unscathed and then experience amazing Russian hospitality put my mind at ease. Things still may not work out, but I owe it to myself to at least give it a go… https://scontent.fhel6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3d&oe=5D7FCCA4 |
True spirit of adventure. Hats off to you! Did you learn any Russian for the trip?
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But Ive been able to pick up enough to survive on the road and have very basic chats about where I'm from, where I'm going |
After parting ways with my new friends in Zeya, I had to backtrack the 100km I had come off the highway and carry on.
Packing up by the river https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d2&oe=5DAEE510 https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fa&oe=5DBAF461 https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...56&oe=5DBE2F23 https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d2&oe=5DA7FA9D https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6a&oe=5DA759A4 By now, I have figured out my rhythm, and its not great. I am basically doing 300km a day and breaking up my stops as such. I know this is much less than a lot of others and even myself a few years back but my body really hurts so I’m trying to rest and leave around 9 to 10am and wrap up by 5pm with plenty of stops to rest and have water. https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a9&oe=5DA9C47D I’ve not been stopping too much for lunch though; should probably start having lunch The ride was fairly uneventful to a highway gastinitsa (guesthouse) at Never. https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...96&oe=5DA921AD https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2e&oe=5DA3AFA1 Except for running into a Korean rider https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fa&oe=5DBA405E I didn’t recognise him at first when I pulled over to just say hi but it later dawned on me that this guy was on the same ferry as me from Korea to Russia but used a different customs agent. From what I could gather he had just changed his chain but the idiot had left his scrap metal right there in the shoulder for me to run over. Granted, I didn’t think he was an idiot for just that but later on down the road I saw him again in the very narrow shoulder, this time, SLEEPING next to the bike right there on the highway with the helmet covering his head. A car even flagged me down further on to ask me if he was with me and if he was ok; not my problem! I later found out from another rider I had met on the ferry, Mehmet from NZ, that they had briefly ridden together and the Korean riders bike actually had stuff falling off from his packing onto the road! A right mess… He had even tried insisting we ride together to a hotel Luckily for me, a hotel was not the plan for the night but instead but I would be staying at a ‘bike post’ of the Iron Angels MC in Mogocha; a first for me so didn’t really know what to expect https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e8&oe=5DBA76E7 When I got there, it was a small barn on the outskirts of town and I was led in by a guy and girl I assumed were in the club but turned out to be travellers themselves! https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...44&oe=5DABD060 They were kind enough to make up a batch of pelmeni (dumplings) for me to join them for dinner and then took me to grocery store to stock up on supplies. https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...83&oe=5DB6A9E6 After this, It seemed like a good time to head back down into the garage to check on the bike as my new friend Alexei and his girlfriend Ulya were working on theirs too https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d4&oe=5DA8B324 https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...03&oe=5DB4AD73 Everything seemed fine till I checked the chain; strange, it was immovably tight! I was sure I had checked the tension that morning and fairly regularly before that although it had not needed adjusting at all. I mentioned this to another one of the Russian bikers hanging about and right away he had my axle nut loosened up and smacked the wheel in with a hammer to get the adjustment right…I did wish he used the adjustment bolts instead but job done right? Nope; still not satisfied with why a chain would just tighten up I did a few more check and realised that it just had one very tight spot and the rest now was so loose it was hanging; my first mechanical issue Alexei suggested we take a dip by the river to freshen up. Not a terrible idea since the bike post had no running water (or toilet) but I just washed my face and arms and came back to ponder over the bike. https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1b&oe=5DC23FAE https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...12&oe=5DA81E28 After some Googling and throwing up the question on Facebook, I decided to adjust the chain so the tightest spot was not super tight but the rest of the chain was not hanging off either. Hopefully this will keep me going till Ulan Bataar where I can get a good mechanic to look over it while I rest This was going to play on my mind for a while though; so Alexei pulled out a bottle of absinth from deep within the mountain of crap on his bike and offered me a shot. Once upstairs, I was still sitting quietly trying to look up what could cause uneven tension whilst more local bikers arrived; they assured me they had a solution to my problem https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...56&oe=5DA4CDA9 What I didn’t know was that the solution didn’t actually have anything to do with the bike; the solution was to drink, drink, drink! https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...de&oe=5DB12519 The next couple of hours sort of blended into one with more bikers coming with more vodka but it definitely stopped me worrying about the chain! https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...30&oe=5DAC0C63 https://scontent.fhel4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...81&oe=5DC455A9 |
Leaving Mogocha following morning was a slow start but was back on the road, tagging along with Alexei and Ulya for a bit whilst the 2 Ukranian bikers took off towards Vladivostok.
https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5DC57E3D From the left; me, Sasha from Iron Angels Mogocha, Alexei, his girlfriend Ulya, the 2 Ukranian riders https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DAAF1F5 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...52&oe=5DBBAFAA Another fairly uneventful ride to the small town of Chernyshevsk which was my halfway stop before Chita the next day. I did meet another Russian biker, Denis, on the way who was also headed to Chita https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1d&oe=5DB18ED2 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...66&oe=5DC6EE4A https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b0&oe=5DA5D199 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5DB0740C https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5e&oe=5DBE3987 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...85&oe=5DA744D6 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...af&oe=5DA605D8 I had been working towards Chita for 2 reasons. Firstly, since Vladivostok, the road signs had the furthest distance listed as Chita so I had been seeing the numbers slowly tick downwards from over 2000km. Secondly, the NZ biker I had met on the ferry, had a tailshaft failure 3 days into his ride and was now waiting out the parts arrival at a bike post in Chita. https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...21&oe=5DB4E430 So when I finally arrived at the bike post I was very happy to find not only Mehmet there but also Alexei from the Mogocha bike post and Denis who I had met on the road! https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...27&oe=5DC6DA32 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...31&oe=5DC125F0 Getting to the bike post was an absolute headache though! It was good in a way that I didn’t hve to cut through the traffic of Chita city in order to get to the bike post as it was on the outskirts of town. However, it was 2km down a dirt road. As my luck would have it, Chita had gotten some extremely heavy rain the day before so that dirt track now had some huge puddles. I did try to go around some but at one point nearly dropped the bike as the sides were still muddy and slippery but also on an angle. And for the biggest one that couldn’t be avoided, I just went for it. Although I did realise later that I made the mistake of putting my foot down right into the puddle when I lost some balance. That foot could’ve gone straight down into the mud and things could have ended very poorly. A photo of the trail the following morning, the puddles were much worse but you get the idea https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...53&oe=5DAA0CCF https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1d&oe=5DA5BBC4 The bike had been in past the swingarm into the mud now and was a mess I’d try to clean up in Ulan Bator where; simply couldn’t be bothered now. https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5DA7311B The bike post was a lot bigger than the last one but also in a much worse state. But again, if you needed a place to rest or work on your bike; this was it. Denis’ regulator had burnt out so they rigged up a new one in a location with more airflow…under the footpeg! https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5DA10F2E The other point worth mentioning about Chita is that since Vladivostok everyone (mainly Russians) had been saying to be careful in this area because of ‘bandits’. This included a local female biker I met in a café while having a meal. The only response I had was that I have to believe people are good I suspect a lot of weight is given to this point due to the death of the Japanese motorcyclist who was murdered in this region in recent years; an occurrence pretty much everyone seems to know about The girl in this pic rode a 300 Ninja and told me to watch out for bandits... https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...89&oe=5DAA6809 Thinking that this would be a quiet night, I turned into bed at 1030pm. How wrong I was At around 11pm, I heard my name being yelled out from behind singing and music. I chose to ignore it…at first. Figuring I could always sleep once I’m back home, I ventured out to find 2 new additions to the bike post; A Russian girl and Argentinian guy couple whose van had its frame snap 200km out of Chita. So now, here they were. Again, out came the vodka and before I knew it, it was 3am! https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5DB1D721 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...62&oe=5DAC78A9 https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e9&oe=5DA6DE6D https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4d&oe=5DBB4965 Biker generosity https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...19&oe=5DA787AB Unsurprisingly, I didn’t leave till 1pm the following day. Whilst most people did the 600km to Ulan Ude, I again did a 300km stretch to a halfway town of Khilok https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5DC0C333 As I rode in, yet again, a biker flagged me down and helped guide me to my gastinitsa simply because he felt it was his duty to help out another biker https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f2&oe=5DA3476D https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...18&oe=5DBDE28F This is in addition to the numerous times I’ve been stopped or approached by people in cars who come to tell me that they are bikers too and show me photos of their sportbikes….maybe it’s a sportbike thing and the Gixxer gets their attention? During dinner in Khilok, 2 guys staying in the same gastinitsa started up a conversation with me (one an engineer and the other a soldier both travelling for work) and it turns out it was in Khilok that the Japanese biker was murdered! https://scontent.fuln2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...24&oe=5DB17D47 Onwards to Ulan Ude! The last city before the border crossing into Mongolia. The original plan was to visit Lake Baikal from here but to be very honest, I’m just too tired to be bothered. Plus, I’m also about 3 days behind on my rough schedule although that’s not such a big deal I even thought about staying along the highway instead of coming into Ulan Ude so I could just carry onto the border the next day. However, after battling traffic and crazy roads to get in, I was very happy with the room and a chance to get clean and rest. Plus I wanted to see the big Lenin head! |
I’m now in Mongolia!
https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5DB94E03 I was supposed to get here yesterday but I woke up in the morning and every part of my body just hurt too much so a rest day it is! I also figured I’d been riding every day for 8 days so it was about time Crossing into Mongolia was much easier than expected too. I had been told to expect a 4 hour crossing so I woke up at 430am with the intent to leave by 530am…which turned to 630am but I was still done with all border formalities within an hour! An extra hour was added to that by the insurance lady being off for lunch so had to wait for her return I had planned to stay in the town right after the border but decided to push on another 100km to the next city where I “accidentally” booked a far too fancy hotel. Ulan Bataar tomorrow! Finally going to take a couple of days off and get the bike looked at. I’m told theres about 15km of roadworks on the way so hoping its not too bad a ride… I met Vasily when I stopped at a bus stop for some water. He had gold teeth and was very friendly |
230km to the capital city of Ulan Bataar via the main road from the biggest border crossing; how hard could it be right?
What I’d been told about the roadworks was most definitely true. Right out of Darkhan the main road had been closed and a diversion was in place; about 10km of gravel and rocks. Slow and rough going but not the worst. As it finished, my first thought was, “What had all these people been complaining and warning me about to watch out for the sand? There was barely a few traces of sand along the edges” https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...42&oe=5DB5A81E So, back on the main asphalt road for about 10km before…another closure. Again I diverted off but this time, before I even realised what was happening, my front went into a deep patch of soft sand and the bike whipped side to side 3 times. I thought that surely this is going to be where I drop the bike. I had gotten lucky in the mud in Russia but this was it. I hope it wasn’t going to smash up the fairings too badly. Somehow, the bike stayed upright. Each time the rear stepped out, it would grab traction again and keep on going. I strongly believe that this is attributable to my tyre choice. With a road front and rear the rear would have spun out and the front would have washed out. Subconsciously my throttle hand kept it steady without rolling on or off so the tyres were able to keep grabbing. What came for the next 10 km was the nastiest sand I’ve ever seen. There were patches of gravel which I attempted to stay on but the cars blowing by me on either side through the sand ensured that every inch of me got covered in the powdery stuff. https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...05&oe=5DB82AAA https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f8&oe=5DA6EA82 https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b4&oe=5DAB6647 Taking a selfie while being aware of an approaching car that’d bathe me in sand https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fe&oe=5DB5BF48 Back on the road again but I use the term road very loosely. With the amount of potholes and cracked surfaces it was near impossible to go more than 40kmh so I decided to treat myself to lunch with one of the only things I could read in the Mongolian script and translate; goulash. After lunch, I spotted a rider coming towards me from a distance and as usual gave a wave…until I realised it was Luigi from Queensland, Australia! I had first met Luigi at a Horizons Unlimited meet in 2013. When most other had not been interested in socialising with the young guy on a sport bike, Luigi and I had struck up a conversation and remained in touch ever since Luigi actually started his trip a few weeks before me but had been resting up in Ulan Bataar for a few weeks which allowed me to catch up. We had planned to meet in UB at the Relax Guesthouse but the day I was arriving he would be leaving…by train. So there was no way we would meet unfortunately. I had been looking forward to meeting him and his partner Suzanne but everyone has their own trip. So I was extremely surprised to see him. Turns out, due to the national holiday for Nadaam the trains were carrying passengers only so he was riding back to the border! https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...11&oe=5DAA04E0 https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...dc&oe=5DA989BB https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c4&oe=5DB4E6EA We had a great catch up for 10 minutes and as a parting gift, he told me about ANOTHER 10km patch of roadworks, although, no sand on this one. So I continued on towards the city and as a final test, about 10 km of road before the guesthouse was also rocks and gravel. Families camping and having picnics along the way due to the national holidays for Nadaam https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ca&oe=5DB7175E https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...77&oe=5DBC27DC *play Old Town Road* https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...dc&oe=5DB9ACDB https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2a&oe=5DB30E65 https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1e&oe=5DAECBCA I was relieved to get to the Relax Guesthouse which is run by a Japanese former Dakar mechanic but also thought, the main road into the capital was so rubbish so what was the way across the country going to be like…. https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5DAD39DB https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e0&oe=5DBE63D3 Sunset over UB https://scontent.fuln3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...24&oe=5DB095CD |
First rest day in Ulan Bator turned into more of a work day. But still easier than being on the bike!
Given it was still a public holiday due to Nadaam, the mechanic wouldn’t be available till tomorrow so I decided to start on the bike myself https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d9&oe=5DEC688C First up though, I had to decide if I wash the bike! It looked so adventure-y and I know many people are against washing their hard earned stripes off but I was so glad I decided to give it a good power wash https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...81&oe=5DA21DC6 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5DB2554D Underneath all the mud I found my swingarm had a big gouge in it. The culprit, the rear of my bottle holders which being made of steel, ate into the aluminium swingarm every time I hit a large hole and the swingarm travelled up https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...df&oe=5DBAA4BA I have to admit, I had heard a sound but had assumed it was my loose chain slapping the swingarm. The damage didn’t look so bad though, maybe 2mm deep and no cracking as far as I could see. I’ve now spaced out the bottle holder and paint the damage on the swingarm so if there is any further fouling, I’ll be able to see it https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...55&oe=5DC0F25F Next up, the chain was thoroughly cleaned and lubed and seems like the tight spot is not so tight any more. There is a very slight variation in tension at one point but it is tolerable. Just going to keep it very well lubed going forward. I have a tyre change coming up in Barnaul, Russia so that’ll be another opportunity to assess further https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...aa&oe=5DAD780B I must have bottomed out somewhere too as a lower fairing is broken with a bracket bolt missing, no big deal, its still holding together and at least I didn’t bottom out the sump Thinking I was all done, I was about to wrap up till the owner of the guesthouse/mechanic Koji asked about my coolant I said, yeah I’m sure its fine, but he insisted on at least checking the overflow tank. It was empty….hmm. Opening the rad cap revealed a lot of brown. Ok, time to flush When I drained the coolant it was much more brown than green. This ones totally laziness on my part as I had no done a flush before leaving which I probably should have from the bike sitting there for 2 years. https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...46&oe=5DB62085 A 2nd flush with water and it came out looking a lot better. I think I’ve been lucky it hasn’t overheated in traffic or the slow offroad stuff with that ruined coolant in there. All set to get on the road again! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...94&oe=5DB2378C https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5DB4B48D A hard earned dinner with Yosuke from Japan who is doing the same trip on a Honda Monkey! I shared my research with him and he is now following the same route although we are both doing our own thing https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...68&oe=5DA39C39 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...da&oe=5DC036BB |
This update was typed sitting in a tent while it rained…
Although I gave myself one more day in UB, news of VERY bad roads leading to the big Gengis statue along with thunderstorms meant that I just spent an evening into the city and back again with a view to rest up to leave the next morning. https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7b&oe=5DAAEDE0 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6c&oe=5DA17955 With rain forecast in Ulan-Batar for 11am, I wanted to get out by 930am but as always, slowly getting through breakfast and packing turned that into 1030am. I had hoped that I would miss peak hour traffic by leaving a little late however some traffic light failures meant the main road out of UB was bumper to bumper with 15km taking almost an hour! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...39&oe=5DAC4075 Once out, I decided to stop for lunch however the problem I’m facing in Mongolia is even though I can read most things, I don’t know what they are! Thankfully, some guys in the café helped me order a dish of grilled meat and veg topped with egg; delicious! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5DA74CE6 Luckily, a passing thunderstorm also rolled through while I was eating. Unfortunately I didn’t brush the seat off before getting on so enjoyed a good hour or so with damp jeans after that The plan for the day was to do 370km to Kharkorin, the site of Gengis Khans capital, however I decided not to push it and find a place to stay about 100km before. This would also mean that my following day would be an even 200km instead of a shorter 100km to Tsterleg. Whilst the road is paved, it doesn’t really allow for much more than 70-80kmh due to the quality of the road and a LOT of potholes to be dodged. This slow pace meant I was able to take in some of the scenery as well as see the wildlife; sheep, horses and bactrian camels! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=5DB4C9C1 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...41&oe=5DBFCF11 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9f&oe=5DBF6E26 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5DBB4795 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c9&oe=5DA27260 When I got to my intended place to stay for the night; a “tourist camp”, I was a little shocked to hear they wanted $165 for a night!!! The manager came down and offered to knock it down to $115… yeah nah A quick check on iOverlander showed a great place to camp 2km back. So, camping it was. In front of the tourist camp there was a 24 hour café and toilet. So, a delicious dinner for less than $5 and a place for breakfast as well as a toilet in the morning! Perfect! The campsite wasn’t hard to find but it was only after setting up that I realised that I probably should have gone in a little further from the road (about 100m at the moment) .. will do that better next time https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5DB5FD2C https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...44&oe=5DB2C453 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...df&oe=5DB7ABDD Ever since I packed my bags in Sydney I was wondering what was the point of carrying all this camping and cooking gear… I think that question got answered today Now just to hope this rain is another passing sprinkle and tomorrow is a bright and sunny day to head on to see the Erdene Zu Monastery at Kharkorin and onwards to Tseterleg! |
Nice Reading,looks like your having a blast:thumbup1:
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A bit of a sleepless night but surprisingly I woke up well rested! It rained through the night and a slight drizzle in the morning but cleared up enough so that I didn’t have to pack away wet gear
https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...0d&oe=5DBAB128 By 9am I was all packed and first stop was the café 2km down for a hearty breakfast and using their toilets to brush my teeth! https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...7a&oe=5DAD8BDF https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...d7&oe=5DB68511 On the road, the scenery was quite nice although it was necessary to be vigilant to look out for wild animals but also a LOT of potholes. https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=5DAE54A1 As my research proved though, it was entirely paved all the way through to Kharkorin! At Kharkorin, I stopped to see the Erdene Zuu Monastery which is the oldest in Monglia but more to my interest, it is the last remnants at the site of the Old Mongolian capital of Karakorum built by Gengis Khan. https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...20&oe=5DB61266 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...11&oe=5DB39856 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...69&oe=5DA16CA8 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...77&oe=5DEC8A9C It was also interested to see how far Mongol influence reached as till now I had only heard the name Karakorum with reference to the Karakorum Highway in Pakistan! At the monastery, I was also lucky enough to see some Nadaam games! Nadaam is a national festival which goes form 11-15 July. The original plan was to get into Mongolia to catch this somewhere but I fell a little short; so this was extremely exciting. Furthermore, I also got to hear some throat singing! https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...73&oe=5DAE7A13 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...92&oe=5DED9D44 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...35&oe=5DB3476E Back on the road towards Tseterleg for the night stay, it continued to be paved but the quality seems to be deteriorating. Tomorrow I plan to do another 200-300 and may camp again but all depends on the weather and road surface! Mongolians love posing on the bike! https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...93&oe=5DAF3C11 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...bd&oe=5DB0565C |
A short day but good day from Tseterleg to Khorog; 170km
I was a bit disappointed with the stay in Tseterleg; place was touted to be an overlanders oasis but just lacked big time in customer service Leaving Tseterleg https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...45&oe=5DA05079 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...dc&oe=5DED937D Once on the road, I found myself stopping to get some photos as the landscape was changing for the better. Even got the drone out twice although being like the 3rd time ever I’ve used it, my skills are quite lacking Potholes galore https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...d8&oe=5DB3BF61 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...59&oe=5DB360B0 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...be&oe=5DA3F10A https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...d4&oe=5DBD19E0 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...0c&oe=5DB5B207 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...95&oe=5DEC87D4 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...85&oe=5DE4F345 The slow pace also suited me as my right hand wrist is starting to hurt at the point where the pressure lies when sitting on the throttle. Will take some painkillers tomorrow and see how that goes Also bottomed our the bike for the first time on a particularly big hole in an unpaved section but thankfully no damage; guessing it was the header pipes that hit... Arriving in Khorog I’ve come across the most beautiful place to stay as recommended by Yosuke who was here yesterday An option to put my tent up or a bed in a ger for an extra $5 ... I took the ger https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...06&oe=5DB19EE8 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=5D9FD3F5 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...c7&oe=5DECCF22 |
A TOUGH day and an unexpected twist that almost put my Mongolia crossing to an end.
Tosontsengel was a bit of a dusty dump of a town and the “best” hotel in town matched. I wasn’t even sure if I was going to get a meal for dinner so when I came down to the café I was surprised to see an Australian couple sitting there! Although they were just as surprised to see me there out in the middle of nowhere https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...44&oe=5DBBB2F3 Turns out they were on their honeymoon and had bought horses to ride across Mongolia, except the horses ran away after 4 days. Then they bought a camel…which also ran away, so now they were just hitchhiking their way across. Then to add to the mix another girl showed up, traveling solo, hitchhiking across the country! Some people call me crazy for riding a motorcycle here but there’s a lot more crazy out there! There was also a young Mongolian boy there who had been born and raised in London and was on holidays with his grandparents driving across the country which made for some good conversation. https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...9e&oe=5DA5C16B Now I knew in advance from Yosuke who is one day ahead of me on his little Honda Monkey that there was about 60km unpaved today. Once I hit the road, the asphalt was so nice for the first 120km that I knew there had to be some tough unpaved ahead since Yosuke hadn’t reached the city of Uliastai till evening! https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...cc&oe=5DA3A95F https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...d6&oe=5DBB1EA0 And right on cue, the road stopped, blocked for construction which means you go off into the wide open steppe. https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...de&oe=5DA7279D To be honest, using the trails on the steppe is not so bad since if one is bad, you just switch to another. The difficulty lies in making sure the trail you take isn’t leading off elsewhere https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...c7&oe=5DB12493 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...c9&oe=5DE66397 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...f5&oe=5DEE2D06 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...ed&oe=5DB9FC88 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...d0&oe=5DB64B03 What really hurts me (and the bike) and is also time consuming is being back on the “in progress” road which is littered with potholes ranging from big to HUGE. And then the whole thing is corrugated just to rattle things a bit more. So as I covered 60km slowly over 3 hours I climbed up the small Zagastay Pass only to suddenly see vehicles backed up with trucks blocking the road. As I got off, I was being told that the road is closed; how can that be? Thankfully there was a woman there from one of the cars that helped translate for me with the construction worker. Hadn’t I been told by anyone that the road was closed? Well..no It was published in the newspaper since June 20 that this road would be closing … again, I didn’t know, plus my Japanese friend just came through here yesterday Ok no, there has been an accident here last night and since then the road is closed, if I have a problem with it, I can go back to the last town and speak to the police. I tried pleading via my translator that I didn’t have enough fuel to use the 200km detour he was suggesting (who even knows what kind of road it is or even where it is?!). I tried pleading I didn’t have enough food or water, I am hungry and thirsty, please I just want to pass and rest. No deal. He started saying the road was very bad and there was heavy machinery ahead, what if I had an accident or got run over by the machinery, who would be responsible then? Clearly this guy was not one to be reasoned with so I decided to just take a step back since all the other Mongolians were trying to bargain with this guy too. Suddenly; the lady said to me, ok quick, lets go, he said go!! I thanked her profusely and jumped on the bike and carried on. https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...97&oe=5DE8746C The blockade opens! https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...57&oe=5DA6AC44 I was getting so stressed thinking, ok, if I have to go back, I am just going to find a truck to take me towards the Russian border. I am so deep into the country now that any other roads up here are simply not going to be passable by me. But I got through! And what would you know, the road pretty much remained the same and I saw maybe one bulldozer…clearly a guy on a power trip That being said, it does seem this road will be closed going forward which will make a huge impact to overlanders using this route! It was slow going from there with lots and lots of potholes. I kept checking the GPS to see how far I was. Average speed was maybe 20kmh. https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...a6&oe=5DAD33E4 https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...ab&oe=5DE6250C As I neared a city, I started to rejoice…but too soon. Again the roads were closed off and I had to cross a river 3 times just outside the city! The first time it was only ankle deep, the 2nd through mud but the last I was so worried about as it was knee deep. I watched a Prius ahead of me struggle and get through, nearly getting bogged in the mud at the exit. I hesitated and was scared…the Mongolians on the other side beckoned me to come through Ok, Leeroy Jenkins, lets do this! I powered through riding the clutch in first with no idea if it was mud or rock under me and praying I didn’t get bogged. But somehow the bike powered through, grabbing traction with those meaty tyres; I think the surface was silt! I love these tyres… https://scontent-hkg3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...2c&oe=5DB2761E I booked myself into a hotel tonight paying about double what I’ve been paying last few nights ($32 for tonight) but I really needed a hot shower after 3 days, a good bed and some Wifi to unwind. Tomorrow is going to be a much bigger day with 200km of the stuff I did only 60km of today expected. But, I have some company tomorrow as Yosuke has stayed back a day so we can tackle this supposedly tough section together. A GSXR and Monkey taking on Mongolia; I need all the luck I can get! |
The toughest ride of my life; Uliastai to Altai
I would say it was the toughest day but I didn’t even manage to finish the 190km in one day and had to wild camp. Keeping in mind that I’ve also ridden the high roads of the Indian Himalayas but this was still harder Having come in from the east of Mongolia via the central route, I always knew that this leg to cut down south was going to be especially tough. I considered it the fee to pay for not taking the dull and dusty southern route across and getting beautiful scenery and asphalt (mostly) till now In Uliastai, Yosuke, whom I had met in Ulan Bataar riding a Honda Monkey 125, had waited a day for me so that we could go together to tackle the way down to Altai. Firstly on the way out, we decided that we should find ourselves some police and ask if the route was open! Didn’t want a surprise road closure like the previous day again https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...70&oe=5DED1429 As we got that confirmation a car rolled up and who should it be but the lady that had helped me at the road closure the previous day! Now confident that the road was at least open, we set off. The first 20km out of Uliastai ascended up a mountain pass and were fairly decent hard pack gravel. From the top of the pass looking back at Uliastai https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cb&oe=5DEBD7C5 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4b&oe=5DB3D7E8 And to the long road ahead to Altai https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...32&oe=5DAD6E99 Some luggage re-adjustment on the Monkey drew a crowd even in the middle of nowhere https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...42&oe=5DE2B7A7 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a7&oe=5DAEA0B1 After the summit it started to get a little rockier and then even more rockier till we were going through single trail which was large rocks over dirt with some deeper gravel in places. At least there was minimal sand but the gravel still made for a couple of slidey moments. https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2b&oe=5DA0A485 One in particular stuck out where I thought, oh, its getting hard packed and started nudging 50kmh till the trail suddenly cambered leaving me in a fairly fast tank slapper which I somehow recovered by sheer luck. After that, it was strictly no quicker than 30kmh! The rocky surfaces then gave way to long stretches of hard pack but with LARGE corrugations that we simply couldn’t go fast over. https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...85&oe=5DED7117 We were struggling to get an average speed over 20kmh! Bridges were closed to cars but we hoped the wood would bear the weight of a bike! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5DADA169 We had known that was no food or fuel on this stretch so lunch consisted of a biscuit with a stop every 10km (half an hour) for a sip of water https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c6&oe=5DA7D53A https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e8&oe=5DE8BCBC https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...61&oe=5DE8E1D2 There were discarded animal hooves all over the place! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...55&oe=5DE65815 The occasionail road sign to help confirm we hadn't chosen a trail leading off to nowhere! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d2&oe=5DB1733E https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...05&oe=5DAFB88B As the day wore on, we were still moving ever so slowly with the sun setting to the side we start talking about the prospect of, ok, what if we don’t make it there tonight Just as we were starting to accept the idea of possibly pushing on in the dark, in front of us appeared the darkest cloud formations I’d seen in a long time. https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b5&oe=5DB71F15 It’s ok, maybe we are turning away from it; we weren’t. And as if to make a point, every minute or so lightning would strike down. Ok, the sun has maybe half an hour left on it, we are facing the possibility of riding on bad roads in the dark during a storm; we HAVE to find a place to camp. Easier said than done; we were now in the region known as the “Stone Gobi”; so, theres a lot of stone….and it’s a desert. To add to that, it was so windy! We eventually found a small clearing beside the road that was a little lower than the area around it and with a few less rocks to dig into our back. With the wind, Yosuke and I helped each other set our tents up and not too soon as the rain started just as we got ourselves and our gear inside https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a6&oe=5DE7FBB6 Now we hadn’t planned to camp but thankfully I had emergency food! Unfortunately Yosuke didn’t have much water left on him and was planning for his dinner to consist of biscuits! I didn’t exactly have a lot of food and water on me either but it would’ve been bad form not to share; so, once the rain died down, we treated ourselves to a luxurious meal of hot instant noodles! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5DBA3F61 A perfect way to end the night with a stomach full of warm food before resting up from a tough day. We had fallen 40km short of Altai but the day had really challenged us both The next morning we woke up and slowly set about packing up; I mean, we had the whole day to cover just 40km https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...87&oe=5DB8D8AA https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5f&oe=5DB03D87 As we set off, it became obvious that not pushing on the previous night had been the right choice; the road remained terribly corrugated. We continued to stop every 10km but with just 10km to go to Altai the road appeared! Actual asphalt! It was the southern route coming from Ulan Batar looking beautiful and smooth. I couldn’t wipe the grin off my face and gave the Gixxer a quick hit up to 80; it hadn’t been over 50 in so long! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...af&oe=5DAA5ED6 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...76&oe=5DB65227 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a6&oe=5DB20BA1 Altai!! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e0&oe=5DB4C759 A simple celebration https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c5&oe=5DEB12A4 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...33&oe=5DEBD087 For many years now I’ve heard people talk about the southern route being boring and dull and I can see why! The south is desert with either sand or stone! Furthermore I keep hearing about construction in the south which means detours of sand and corrugation. So it beats me why people continue to do it We had a beautiful run up through the centre with amazing scenery with one very tough but not impossible stretch as payment for the beauty. Would I do it again? Nope. But I don’t regret it at all As a perfect was to wrap up this achievement, a beautiful hotel at a great price and seeing as its my birthday tomorrow, maybe a pizza for dinner! |
Unfortunately there was no birthday pizza but by the time I got all cleaned up, 3 more bikes arrived at the hotel; 2 riders from Italy heading East and a Canadian rider heading West
Funnily enough the Canadian rider recognised me as soon as I said I rode a GSXR as he had been following my journey online! After a night of a few drinks and sharing stories, the Canadian rider decided he would join us heading west making our odd couple of a Monkey and Gixxer a trio now with a KTM 500 added to the mix. https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...13&oe=5DECE3DE One great piece of news the Italian bikers delivered was that from here on till the border It was perfect tarmac with the exception of an unpaved 30km right before the border Whilst most people would have done the 400km direct to Khovd, the 3 of us decided to camp halfway based on a campsite suggested on the iOverlander app A collapsed bridge marked as collapsed in 2017...a 2019 update in iOverlander simply said "Still collapsed". A rider on Facebook shared a photo next to it in 2016. Its like they have done all the work to build the highway but really can't be bothered with the bridge! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b7&oe=5DE9EAC0 They literally pull up alongside us, take a photo and then zoom off! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...58&oe=5DB4DF45 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1d&oe=5DA32D2C As we rode on, I probably saw close to 15 foreign bikes both solo and in guided tour groups heading the opposite way; more than I’d seen in my whole time in Russia https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b5&oe=5DB74060 About 30km out from our intended camp site, we were flagged down by 2 Russian bikers from Omsk on the other side of the road. Turned out that one of them had a large gash in his rear tyre that although was plugged with about 3 pieces was still leaking. They were trying to find an inner tube to run inside the tubeless tyre as a solution but didn’t have one the right size! Although we couldn’t help, they were glad to know that it was just 10km further in their direction to a town with hopefully some services that could help With a very large thunderstorm looming very close to us, we set off again in hopes of missing the rain or at least getting camp setup before it hit! https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...82&oe=5DAB539F Not even a kilometre later, another 2 bikers flagged us down! More Italians! Luckily this time it wasn’t for a problem but just to say hi. They told us that they’d been rained on and also gotten a lot of dust from the high winds now sweeping over the steppe https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...31&oe=5DAC1BD3 After a hasty goodbye, we pushed on, another 15km to go till the suggested spot. Whilst the storm cloud still loomed, it turns out the other haze we’d been seeing was dust, a lot of dust. To make things a little tougher, we couldn’t find a way off the road and into the hills! We had to find a place quick before the dust got worse or the storm hit so we managed to nestle ourselves between two piles of rocks in what seemed to have been a quarry used for the stone in the road bed. Setting up the tents in the strong winds was another challenge; whilst we did have protection on 2 sides of our sites, it was angled just right so that it actually funnelled the wind in even more! It didn’t help that the ground was so solid that it was bending our tent pegs but at least we had no shortage of rocks to weigh down the ropes. Finally, with camp setup, the winds also died down and slowly our not so great camping idea turned into an idyllic evening with a little kitchen setup for cooking and a view of the sunset over the Monglian steppe and if you looked far enough, the snow capped glacier mountains out towards China A perfect end to a great day but the hunt for pizza continues In the kitchen https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...86&oe=5DADCD37 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...11&oe=5DA78AFF https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...14&oe=5DB57332 Accommodation for the night https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f4&oe=5DB67486 https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3d&oe=5DE84287 Not much meat available here to add to our meal https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c6&oe=5DB663A9 Sunset over the steppe https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...60&oe=5DA380EF Sun and rain meet https://scontent.fuln5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5DAF313F |
Still riding? Looking forward to your next post:mchappy:
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Sorry, a combination of being dead tired, bike needing some work and not the best internet. Will get the posts back on track ! |
While I'm tying my best to keep my Facebook page up to date (7days1shower) I havent had as much luck here. Currently in Kazakhstan (and loving it!) but will slowly bring this one up to date too
It doesn't help that Kazakhstan has just introduced some new Internet policies which is making access a bit tough! So...going back a little.... After our first hotel choice in Khovd wanted about $150 for the night we moved onto our second choice which had mixed reviews online. And for a while we thought we were in for a rough stay after finding out that “no hot water for now” actually meant no running water at all! Thankfully, once the water was on a perfect hot shower was served up along with decent beds! Unfortunately the rest of the town was still a dump with attempts to find food outside the hotel only ending in being caught up in more dust storms. The hotel staff did engage in the now common occurrence of photoshoots with the Gixxer. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d4&oe=5DDB9DA3 The next morning was looking like it was off to a rough start too after I followed GPS directions to the main road to Ulgii….a dirt road! https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...b2&oe=5DED9120 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5DD63A6A https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...e7&oe=5DE9E9EB At first I thought this must just be a small section but after a few kilometres, luckily, Mark realised that we were on the old road! https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...91&oe=5DEDB979 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a9&oe=5DDE4011 A quick backtrack and navigation through town and we were back on perfect asphalt. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ec&oe=5DA50672 https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...a8&oe=5DE23925 https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...49&oe=5DCFBD89 "The Misfits" https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5DA37AB4 https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...2e&oe=5DA213F5 Riding with the power of Gengis Khan https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...95&oe=5DDE6F95 The trip was fairly pleasant with only a couple of small sections offroad along with more Mongolians stopping for photos. https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...cd&oe=5DDEE3C3 More people? https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ca&oe=5DE14196 https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...18&oe=5DA0C83F Ok fine, one last one https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2c&oe=5DA0E7C9 The most noticeable difference was that it was getting cold, REALLY cold. https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5DDD4721 https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...3e&oe=5DDE65BB https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5DA5B203 Combined with the odd drizzle, this made for some very cold hands. It was then that I realised that pretty much everyone was using heated handgrips….wish I’d thought of that modification for my bike. As we pulled into town and were about to go to the Blue Wolf Ger camp we saw a Czech couple pull up on a Transalp who suggested another camp very close by that was rated better than Blue Wolf. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a9&oe=5DDB90C0 Whilst the initial impressions were ok, turns out the gers flood! So a soaked helmet and jacket were more things on the to-do list to sort out. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9c&oe=5DDBF630 I did get my pizza though! Worth it. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DECAC3F https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5DCD8B4F The plan was to head to the Russian border the next day but all night it rained, hard, continuing into the morning. Whilst Mark decided to head off anyway, Yosuke and I have decided to wait it out till tomorrow in hope of slightly less rain. https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...39&oe=5DD8FC8E https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5DE08B1F A coal delivery to the dump of a place in Ulgii https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ca&oe=5DE9304E A good lunch of kofte in Ulgii to lighten the mood of being damp and cold https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...19&oe=5DA19C7D Although things outside were still miserable https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...5e&oe=5DA3B6B0 A possible solution to my cold hands? https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...36&oe=5DE24984 https://scontent.fala4-2.fna.fbcdn.n...f9&oe=5DE22436 So now, an early 4am start to get to the border. Only 95km away but 30km of that is unpaved which with the rain, could mean mud. That combined with stories I’ve been hearing from others coming into Mongolia at the same border to 8 and 11 hour crossings, the earlier the better. Just hope its quicker the other way… |
First sportbike to cross Mongolia? Probably not (I've heard from 2 people now about a Slovenian R1 crossing through around 7 years ago)
First Australian sportbike to cross Mongolia? Maybe Either way, it’s done!!!! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a1&oe=5DE965E6 The tactic to try and wait out the rain by a day paid off! I definitely didn’t want to stay any longer than necessary in the dump of a place in Ulgii. The rain had flooded my gear, the roof leaked onto the bed and everything just smelt damp. We woke up at 4am the next morning in anticipation of a wet and muddy off road stretch to the border and were on the road by 5am. https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...62&oe=5DA17622 While Mongolia had tested me and worn me out, I was very lucky not to come off and experience any real pain…till now. The cold! The cold on my fingers was unbearably cold and I had to keep pulling over to get some blood back in my fingers from the warmth of the Monkey engine since my engine had case covers on it! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6e&oe=5DD722F2 The Monkey had heated grips and the Tenere had wind protectors; I had nothing. If I was struggling with the cold at 2600m, how was I going to deal with the temperatures on the Pamir at 4500m. I need to look into something ASAP Thankfully, we did have some luck on our sides yet again. Yesterday was pouring rain and today was forecast to be rain again but a little less. But lo and behold, not a cloud in the sky! The offorad sections were as long as promised at about 30km and definitely not difficult, in the dry. In the wet, they would have been fairly muddy. We got to the border at 830am, a decent time given it doesn’t open till 9am but there was already a line of at least 50 vehicles. Thankfully, at most border crossings, motorcycles get priority and here was no different; right to the front! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e0&oe=5DCCF1BE After paying a small fee for road tax and changing any remaining Mongolian Tugrik to rubles, the Mongolia formalities didn’t take long at all; 30 minutes. Off to a good start from the horror stories we’d been hearing. From there, it was a 26km ride through no-mans land; neither Mongolia nor Russia and to the Russian border post. We had done it, we had actually crossed Mongolia!! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...68&oe=5DDCE694 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...49&oe=5DE77457 The Russian side was a bit of a longer wait as each person ahead of us seemed to be in a van with a dozen people; meaning a dozen passports to process On top of that, of course there was going to be the odd Mongolian who would argue and push and shoe to try and get in front. In the end, the immigration officer takes the motorcyclists paperwork instead and I’m free to give the Mongolian guy a polite smile to let him know he can keep waiting |
If I was happy about getting back into Russia yesterday, today Russia just took me to a whole new level of happiness!
Everyone had been saying how beautiful the Altai region of Russia was but so far, we hadn’t really seen it. What I assumed was clouds blocking our view was actually thick smoke haze that was blanketing much of Siberia due to wildfires! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a7&oe=5DCFBBAC However, as moved further north, the haze dissipated enough to reveal the beauty of Altai. https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cb&oe=5DD8C8E7 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e5&oe=5DEEB9EC https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3f&oe=5DD8E222 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8c&oe=5DDFC774 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b2&oe=5DDD6D06 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9f&oe=5DD9FAAF And it was as if every overlander was enjoying this region just as much as us; from cyclists to bikes and cars as well as huge expedition trucks, there were vehicles from all corners of the world going up and down through the Altai. It was my favourite game of spot the numberplate! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5DD00C88 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a5&oe=5DA34FEC The distance from Kosh Agach to Barnaul was just shy of 700km but a downside of so much beauty was that I kept stopping for photos and videos which made the planned 350km seem more improbable by the minute. https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b5&oe=5DD423E3 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b3&oe=5DEA333D https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DE3C54A We also came across the Czech couple on the Transalp whom we had met and had dinner with in Ulgii. I thought my chain had problem, his was literally hanging off the swingarm while at full stretch! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c4&oe=5DCECDDD But it wasn’t just foreigners taking in the beauty of the Altai; there were so many holidays Russians camping all along the riverside in their tents or caravans https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b1&oe=5DDDA446 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...64&oe=5DE722A5 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5DE9F0CC While I had planned to stay at a gastinitsa, seeing all this made me want to camp too! I had enough food and water so why not! A quick check of iOverlander showed a campsite over a bridge and on the other side of the road which should be secure enough. The camp site was not hard to get to at all but still secluded enough along with a flowing river nearby for soothing soundtrack to sleep to as well as fresh water! https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2d&oe=5DE8EDFC https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5DCF908B https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f5&oe=5DCCE6AE https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f2&oe=5DDC6E4B https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...54&oe=5DE183D8 https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a9&oe=5DDADE2B https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9a&oe=5DD4349D https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9d&oe=5DA28A6B https://scontent.fkgf1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d3&oe=5DA1A243 A perfect day capped off with some hot noodles and a Bounty and Twix for dessert |
Very pleased with the decision to camp instead of stay indoors on our first day through Altai.
https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b0&oe=5DD3BCDC https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...36&oe=5DDCE534 I was wondering how the next day would be and within 50km of leaving camp it went from beautiful twisties to traffic. The road was now passing through small towns which bottlenecked all the holiday-goers. I started to wonder how we could achieve our lengthy 450km target at this pace nd then the dual carriageway opened letting the pace go up to 110kmh. But with the speeds going up, another danger emerged; Russian driving speeds. The road was now a single carriageway again and even though I was doing around 100km, I was being passed as if I was standing still by cars doing easily 150kmh. https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...bd&oe=5DDA20D7 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...96&oe=5DEB27C8 Making matters worse, the combination of both right and left hand drive cars in Russia meant that many cars were hanging out nearly all the way into oncoming traffic in order to see before passing. Just as these thoughts were going through my mind, traffic started slowing down up ahead and I saw the cause; a car flipped on its roof. Thankfully the occupants were all standing outside seemingly unharmed but this was definitely a dicey stretch of road. As if that wasn’t enough, as I pulled out to pass a truck doing 100kmh due to it billowing out diesel fumes, the bike suddenly started hesitating to accelerate any further whilst I was already in the oncoming lane with a car approaching. I managed to pull in just in time but a little more testing showed the bike was struggling at exactly 6000RPM, hesitating and choking to rev any higher. Maybe a fuel delivery issue? That’s about one of the only things I am a little familiar with so hopefully it’s something I can fix. At least its working seemingly well till 6k RPM and allowing speeds of upto 100kmh without issue Getting into Barnaul was a big relief after along day with just a final 45 minutes of peak hour traffic to get through but the thought of a 4 night rest in an Airbnb apartment was worth the days effort. While I initially was worried the apartment was too far from the centre it turned out to be great with multiple supermarkets downstairs and a 24 hour fast food place within 5 minutes walk. For dinner? Pizza of course. https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a1&oe=5DC7E36D https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6a&oe=5DDA5CA4 |
There's an issue with your photos - none other than the first half of the first page here are displaying - I suspect permissions or something like that at your storage site.
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They seem to be loading for me :/ Could it be a browser issue? |
The whole reason I was in Barnaul was because of tyres.
Before I set out on this trip, I did a lot of research into tyres for both the front and rear that would get me through Russia, help me cope with Mongolia and continue on without needed a change. Not an easy task but I finally decided on a Continental TKC80 for the front and a GoldenTyre GT723 for the rear. The first 4000km through Russia would be mostly pavement although the tyres did save me through some muddy detours my GPS took me through early on in Russia. If it weren’t for that, it may have made more sense to run road tyres till Ulan Ude and then buy something new there; although easier said than done since my tyre sizes aren’t the easiest to find. With regards to my first change, the initial plan was Osh, Kyrgyzstan which was then revised back to Almaty, Kazakhstan; at both places I contacted retailers and prices were sky high I then found a guy in Moscow that could supply a wider range of tyres at a reasonable price shipped anywhere in the Russian customs union (Russia, Kazakhstan & Kyrgystan) So I had now decided Osh would be too far to stretch the current tyres, so should I go for Almaty in Kazakhstan or Barnaul in Russia? The difference SHOULD have been about 1500km based on the most direct route until I started learning the information that the direct route was so bad it was smashing peoples bike frames, wheels and in general just nearing impassable. So, the longer way around was an additional 1500km making it a drastic difference for the tyres I had to make the decision in by Ulan Ude and after much deliberation I settled on Barnaul as the shipping point for my new tyres; Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR for the front and Mitas E07+ on the rear. Perhaps not as great a combo as my first but hopefully suitable to take on the Pamir Hwy Now that I was actually in Barnaul though I was wishing I had gone with trusting my own research as both the front and rear still had life in them, probably enough to make it to Almaty via the longer route even! But it was too late, it would take too much time to get them shipped again to Almaty and add even more cost so the best solution we could come up with was to change the rear, especially since the new rear is supposed to be long life, and I will carry the front with me so that I can change it in Almaty or in case the current one goes before then, at least I have a spare with me. TKC80 front after 7500km. Still plenty of meat left https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...d4&oe=5DEB48FE GT723 Rear after 7500km. I loved this tyre and sad to see it go with life still left on it https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...96&oe=5DC9FA69 Luckily a 17” front fits snugly with my current luggage setup and in fact even acts as a bit of a luggage rack. I may even consider carrying my old front with me after the change in order to help carry fuel. So, in Barnaul, the tyres had been shipped to a local biker, Andrei, who was going to help us fit the new tyres and any other work we needed done such as luggage rack welding for the Japanese guys and a new chain for me; all free of charge of course. https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...df&oe=5DDC612E https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...90&oe=5DD6B305 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...cf&oe=5DCB69A3 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...2c&oe=5DD28383 Andrei had told me in messages that he wasn't a service centre but he knew how to get the job done as the best mechanic in Barnaul! Breaking a very tough rear tyre bead https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...8d&oe=5DDEE0C5 As I waited for Andrei to arrive I thought I would look into the hesitation issue from yesterday and pulled off the fuel tank. As I took the fuel pump out the most ridiculous amount of gunk started falling out; dirt, all dirt. https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...f4&oe=5DDDC395 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...fb&oe=5DE7398C https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...03&oe=5DD35DB6 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...99&oe=5DD1DA18 Easily a handful of dirt had accumulated at the bottom of the tank and clogged up the pump assembly. Mark on the KTM from Canada had mentioned to me that he was using an Australian made pre-filter sock for fuel in Mongolia since he had heard the fuel was bad there. I had told him then that oh, I have been filling up at petrol stations only so I hadn’t been using the same pre-filter that I was also carrying. Damn I felt silly. Thankfully, it seemed that no major damage was done as the pump was still working and despite the amount of dirt, the low pressure filter itself was not too bad. Even more luckily, I had diagnosed the issue perfectly and was carrying 5 spare filters and a spare pump. A thorough clean of the assembly as best I could, a new filter and it was all back together again. A quick test didn’t show any hesitation revving to 8k RPM From there, it was a couple of afternoons at Andreis place while he helped us out with our other mechanical needs and told us crazy stories of his rides in the Siberian winter such as riding a scooter across a frozen Lake Baikal as well as a big power Harley with side car also across the frozen lake! After the bike was done, Andrei was even kind enough to take us on a tour of the city including to the local biker bar https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...67&oe=5DD1667C https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...cd&oe=5DE24B67 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...16&oe=5DDD3ED2 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...16&oe=5DDD3ED2 While the bikes got some care, it was also great to take a day or two off in Barnaul with a nearby fast food store serving everything from pizzas to wrap and burgers and the general calmness of a residential neighbourhood giving us some nice peace and quiet https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...8e&oe=5DCA7BD0 Hopefully all rested up and ready for the next challenge; Central Asia, starting with Kazakhstan |
- GOODBYE RUSSIA, HELLO KAZAKHSTAN -
Today was the day I finally leave Russia for good after my 2nd entry into the country (travelling on a double entry business visa). Unlike others on a 1 year multiple entry visa, I don’t have the option to change up my plans if I feel like it and enter back in. I was truly going to be sad to leave as although I had started off in Vladivostok apprehensively about how crazy Russian roads and traffic would be I had grown to love the country while travelling through Siberia for everything from its varied landscapes, friendly people and great food. I had been taken in by bikers to their homes, had my bike looked after and in broken English and Russian, had some great conversations. It was also a sense of familiarity that I was leaving as I understood Russian to some extent and moving on meant starting anew from learning how to say hello and thank you, knowing what food to eat and even just day to day things on the road. For example, filling fuel in Russia requires you to specify how many litres you want and paying upfront. Now with a bike, I usually just want it to be filled to full so whilst in some cases this can just be done by leaving a large cash amount or card as bond, some attendants flat out refuse until you specify an amount and pay for it. A headache but again, familiar. There were the nice things as well like the custom followed by most drivers to turn on the hazard lights if you allow them to pass as a thank you. Of course, I would curse them in my head if I let them pass and they didn’t thank me! A last look back at Russia https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5a&oe=5DD3AD53 It didn’t help that the things I had been preparing for the next country, Kazakhstan, weren’t all that great; a direct route from the Semey border to Almaty of 1200km was 800km of road so bad that people were breaking bike frames and wheels, a barren landscape, corrupt police that were ready to pounce. Thankfully, I had done my research yet again and validated with others that a longer, 1000km longer, route was possible down south to Almaty via the capital city of Nur Sultan (previously known as Astana). This would eat up some time and effort but hopefully save the bike. At the last minute, I also decided to drop the idea of the smaller border crossing into Kazakhstan through Shemonaika, which was supposed to be much quicker than the main crossing, due to hearing about road conditions and headed to the main border of Semey. Again, through some research I found that just before the border is a small town where the main business seems to be selling insurance. The first of these little booths seems to be the popular option with a very friendly lady who offers tea and biscuits while you wait. Probably paying a slight premium but all in all, only 1600rubles for a months insurance https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7f&oe=5DD45478 The border process was once again very quick despite horror stories and both Russian and Kazakh sides were done within 1 hour and 15 minutes. A quick chat with the Kazakh soldiers with a lesson in saying hello (asalam aleikum) seemed to indicate that this was going to be a predominantly Islamic nation. Lining up before the Russian side https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6c&oe=5DDC11FE In Kazakhstan! https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e6&oe=5DEAC06D As we stopped for some water right after the border, a lone rider approached us from the other side; a German on a GS1200 named Oliver. For the past few days I had been wondering if I should attempt taking on the Pamir and trying to gather as much information as possible on road, fuel and weather conditions. Oliver in one conversation was able to alleviate all my concerns and helped me finalise my decision; I will attempt the Pamir! In return, I was able to try and give him some information on Russia and more importantly, Mongolia. Of course, I also gave him a sticker and toy kangaroo! https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...8d&oe=5DE0F918 https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...66&oe=5DD0FBEE Unfortunately, from there on, it seemed that the stories of Kazakhstan were starting to be realised as although the road was paved, it was of fairly poor condition with every bump and hole sending a jolt through the bike and me. https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ba&oe=5DDEBCAA However all along the way, it seemed many Kazakhs were very fond of bikers as a loud beep would suddenly warn me of a car next to me with someone hanging out the window waving enthusiastically Pulling into Semey, without a SIM card, we started looking for accommodation. The first place; fancy but too expensive, keep looking. The 2nd place had a standard room for one person for 6000 tenge and a double luxury room for 9000 tenge. I decided to opt for the standard room but had to pay an extra 700 tenge for breakfast whilst the Japanese bikers shared the luxury room which had breakfast included! Next order of business; food! But with no money, this meant that an ATM had to come first. One of my favourite activities in any new country is to go looking for a basic necessity such as a SIM card as It often leads to fun discoveries. In this case, my first Kazah food at a fast food joint where I opted for an unknown snack rather than chicken nuggets and was rewarded with a delicious pastry filled with meat. https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...67&oe=5DE2C0F7 Buying the SIM card itself was an experience as the 1 hour wait to get it activated lead to a great conversation with Azhar who ran a gold shop and Evgeny who ran the phone shop. All through Google Translate of course. https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...8e&oe=5DD637D1 From there, dinner. I did try to have some more Kazakh food (shashlik) but ended up with Uzbek plov (which turned out to be so delicious, I had 2 plates) https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c4&oe=5DD5B0CF A good bed to sleep in, delicious food, friendly people; maybe Kazakhstan wasn’t going to be so bad after all |
- West through Kazakhstan -
It seems that roads heading in and out of a city are fairly poor but everything in between is great! (So far) Heading from Semey, west, to Pavlodar was no different Anticipated a hot day at 36c but luckily cloud cover kept things fairly decent The 340km that would’ve otherwise felt big actually seemed ok so going to try a 440km push to the capital of Nur Sultan (formerly known as Astana) tomorrow No Mongolian cowboys wanting photos with the bike any more https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2b&oe=5DE059B3 I had seen this bike in the hotel parking in the morning but it was gone by the time I was ready to set off A crazy Korean guy taking 5 years to ride around the world https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ff&oe=5DE2B661 Roadside produce https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ff&oe=5DE2B661 Lunch break https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b5&oe=5DC9DB56 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...71&oe=5DD97063 Many rest stops in Russia have these bays for people to work on their vehicle Seems Kazakhstan follows suit In this case the guy seemed to be pulling down on something near the gearbox and then beating the hell out of it with a big hammer https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...30&oe=5E14894E Dinner in Pavlodar; dump of a hotel but giant shaslik made up for it https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...3c&oe=5DDD4FD3 |
- To the capital! -
Since I’m avoiding the road to head directly south to Almaty, I need to head further west towards the capital city of Nur Sultan (although it seems locals refuse to recognise it as anything other than Astana) A quick stop by the mosque in Pavlodar before heading out of the city https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...f6&oe=5DD7273A https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...c6&oe=5DDE63F6 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...f8&oe=5DE45536 Based on yesterday’s smooth ride, I decided to scrap my plan of a 2 day ride and try to do the whole 440km in one go. Then take an extra day to explore what is supposed to be a cool city As soon as we got on the first highway (A17), the construction began. This meant not only diversions but speed limit is reduced to 40 down from 90 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...3d&oe=5DE5783D https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...95&oe=5DDB08E8 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...72&oe=5DD45DC0 It seemed that the reputation of harsh police enforcement was true to as nearly every local slowed right down! At this pace it seemed near impossible to be able to complete this is a day but after nearly 250km of pain the road changed; we were now on the P4 https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...72&oe=5DE08A2F https://scontent-arn2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...66&oe=5DD7B423 And life on the P4 was good! Perfect dual carriageway and a 120kmh limit; time for the GSXR to open up a little! Coming into Astana, I got the usual waves, honks and thumbs up that now seemed commonplace in Kazakhstan and it indeed looked like a very clean and modern city Only problem was, I couldn’t find the entrance to the hotel despite circling it twice! But again, friendly Kazakh people to the rescue. A lady and her daughter in a black Range Rover got us to follow them right up to the hotel A hot shower, good dinner and great bed to get ready for a big day of walking and exploring tomorrow! |
I’ve enjoyed reading this today, and will be following from here. Sooner you than me on a gixer off road, but if we were all the same life would be dull. Respect!
Get that chain sorted/changed or have the capacity to get a link out - i didn’t on a previous trip and it suddenly became a critical problem. |
- NEW FAVOURITE COUNTRY & CITY –
The plan for the day off in Astana was to walk around and explore the city. However, the night before, I had been lying in bed scrolling through Instagram and come across the page for Astana Bikers. After a couple of quick messages back and forth with the page owner, Darkhan (who rides both an immaculate Goldwing and also an Aprillia RSV4), it was decided that walking about 10km in predicted 37c heat was a terrible idea and Darkhan would instead come by to pick me up and drive me around First thing next morning, I shot him a message to let him know that the Japanese bikers were looking for an accessories shop for new gloves and within 15 minutes, another biker, Mikhail, was at our front door. Turns out there is a large biker WhatsApp group and the news of traveling riders needing assistance had gone out en masse. While Darkhan took me out for a drive in the city, the Japanese guys were taken to Mikhails home and told to choose from his own gloves for pairs that would fit them! I on the other hand was busy being amazed by the hyper-modern and amazing city that is Astana. Coming into Kazakhstan, I had very low expectations and a hot and dusty steppe and not much else to do. However I’m so glad the direct road to Almaty is bad which has made me come through Astana. The city is extremely clean with wide and perfect roads and almost every building is architecturally beautiful. https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a1&oe=5DC938E8 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...13&oe=5DCAC319 Arc De Triomphe... Astana https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...75&oe=5E15C52C https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0a&oe=5DE4C3AD https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...11&oe=5DCA780F https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...db&oe=5DE8EA43 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c2&oe=5DCC9BA0 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=5DCA4237 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a5&oe=5DDAB995 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...15&oe=5DE0C650 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...88&oe=5DDF094E Entire residential areas are styled in distinct French, Italian or other European styles; large restaurants are housed in huge buildings styled to look like landmarks from their home countries such as Azerbaijan, South Korea, Uzbekistan and Japan. However it’s not all about imitation, while even the simplest buildings re beautiful, the city boasts more concert halls, stadiums, museums and other arenas than I could ever hope to visit in months of living here all interspersed amongst ornate mosques. You’ll have to excuse my photos as most were taken from a moving car; it was simply way too hot to be out. Going far beyond the term of being hospitable, Darkhan treated me to a light and refreshing lunch before dropping me back to my place. But not before telling me to make sure to be ready by 10pm so we could head to the local bikers meeting where a large group of Astanas’ sportbikers would be waiting to meet me and see the Aussie GSXR! Lunch with Darkhan, cool and refreshing acroshka with lime and mint juice https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...64&oe=5DCEE603 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9b&oe=5DCE7C99 These guys were crazy, reaching well in excess of 150kmh on the street with no regard for speed cameras flashing away like strobe lights. I hung back with the Goldwing... https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b5&oe=5E158195 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...1d&oe=5DD39CA3 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...31&oe=5DD967A4 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...77&oe=5DDC350E https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a9&oe=5DE04368 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0d&oe=5DD9FE9B https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d9&oe=5DE8E5C9 A final parting gift; a patch from Astana Motorcyclists! https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...32&oe=5DE31F35 |
Quote:
Rear sprocket seems to still look ok, hopefully front it too Also going to be very fastidious about cleaning and lubing now |
The road from Astana to Karganda was even better than expected!
A photo of a gas station attendant in Astana; Ablai is originally from Taraz and spoke great English! He was very excited to see us as it was his first time meeting travellers. So it made me very happy to give him a kangaroo keyring to remember the travellers by https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c5&oe=5DE4EAFB While I had information that it was motorway, I was expecting to be around 250km as per Google As the signs started indicating only 170km, I started thinking, ok, this is going to be a super short day In the first hour, I blasted along at 120kmh and decided to stop for some water. I’d mentioned before about the roadside bays where people could work on their cars but had only seen them used occasionally. So when I saw an Audi up on the ramps with a gearbox lying next to it, I went for a closer look. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2d&oe=5DCD87CC As I walked around, a guy popped out from underneath asking for a cigarette; sorry, haven’t got one But slowly, we started talking more. As the gearbox to the side would indicate, Uslan was having transmission issues with his old Audi. https://scontent.fhrk1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5DE22032 I saw him struggling with a wrench to get a bolt off so I ran back to my bike to get a breaker bar; perfect! It was off But now he needed a specific sized allen key to get the driveshafts off. We tried every tool I had and when the Japanese bikers pulled up behind me, we rummaged through their toolkits as well to no avail. It wasn’t too hot today but still hot enough for someone pulling a gearbox on the side of the road; I gave Uslan one of my bottles of water. But this part needed to come off. Maybe from the outer side? So off came the wheel and Uslan once again started trying various methods which included big hammers and planks of wood. Finally, with enough force, it was off! https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5DDC259E At this point, I was now officially employed in the process after being given my own set of gloves to help prop up the gearbox while he undid the final bolts. https://scontent.fhrk1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5DCE1BD5 As I held up the gearbox from the rear with oil dripping all over me, it seemed it was now hanging by some feed/drain lines only. https://i.ibb.co/r3g1b9P/Uslan-Service.jpg I stepped away as Uslan went around finding various bolts and screws and just when my head was turned, it fell to the ground with an almighty thud. Success! It had been a couple of hours now since I first pulled up so after checking that he didn’t need any further help, I finally took off again. Every time I think it’s going to be a short simple ride, the day always finds something interesting to send my way |
- THE LONG WAY AROUND (TO ALMATY) –
I’ve now been in Almaty for over a week so I guess better get to it and finish the write up of how I actually got here! As mentioned previously, the direct road, of 1200km, from The Russian/Kazakh border at Semey to Almaty was said to be so bad that it broke peoples frames and suspension. So, I am taking the longer, 2500km, route around; the last 600km of which is said to be quite full of nothingness with a 200km patch said to be quite rough. The first 400km stretch from Karaganda to Balkhash was fair although the road did change from a dual carriageway to a single lane each way. The road out of Karaganda; going to be a lot nicer to do this stretch once construction has been completed in 2023 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5E1270C4 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b1&oe=5DD029F4 As I ride through the desolate nothingness, I wondered how it would have been in the days of the Silk Road caravans; moving slowly through the heat https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4a&oe=5DDFBFF3 Road condition starts degrading https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0e&oe=5DDDA140 Vast open nothingness https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d6&oe=5DDB171A The town of Balkhash itself was very chill with many people out and about in the evening by the lake side https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...63&oe=5E1292E7 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9e&oe=5DC7B887 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b7&oe=5DE1DDBB https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a5&oe=5DE0E92E https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5DDC30C9 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...55&oe=5DE6866A The following morning, we set out again for the first half of the 600km stretch that was said to be quite bare in terms of amenities such as fuel, accommodation and food. https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9b&oe=5E16338E https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9e&oe=5DE6C99B https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...91&oe=5E126222 While the road was still decent, finding a place to stay for the night proved challenging. At first, I thought to try and camp by the lake and ventured in 7km off the main road down a heavily corrugated road. Getting to the lake proved antclimatic as the shore was littered with garbage and there was simply no shade at all. It also didn’t help that iOverlander reports of campsites nearby had wolf sightings too! A small village water pumping station en route to trying to find the campsite https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...70&oe=5E123ECD https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E14C663 Ok, onto the next option; there was a small town nearby that listed 2 gastinitsas or the café on the main road where we had turned off may have some rooms too. We decided to venture another 5km down terrible roads only to find a real dump of a town wanting exorbitant prices! Back to the highway we go for option 3; the road was still heavily corrugated but I was a little fed up at this point so the bike took the brunt of my mood, flying over the bigger corrugations at 50kmh. Finally back at the café on the main road, they had some rooms attached to the café but no shoers, no toilets and no airconditioning. However, at $5 a night, it’d do just fine. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E14C663 A namazkhana at the truck stop; prayer room https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...96&oe=5DCC4306 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...13&oe=5DD0C6DF Over dinner at the café we met a Czech biker coming from the opposite direction who described the road as “sh*t, sh*t and more sh*t”; this was a little worrying. We also provided her some road advice on Mongolia as she was having second thoughts on whether she would be able to do it. This friendly police officer came to our table and we all went quiet, thinking, what have we done?! Turns out he just wanted to talk. He had studied in Boston but was now a police officer. We spoke about what Kazakh roads and speeding fines were like and whether Kazakh police were corrupt His answer, “Oh I’m too shy to answer that!” https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5E15B9A7 Unfortunately the nights sleep wasn’t great with trucks constantly coming and going all night along with a room that was quite warm. https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d8&oe=5DDBD197 Luckily we got a room just in time as this sign of "no more rooms went up shortly after! https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E13A3CD The following morning we set off and within 20km, the road turned bad. It was still single lane tarmac, however, it was very damaged. https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ee&oe=5DD49E41 https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...23&oe=5DD45BE6 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5b&oe=5DDB34BE https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DD5BE97 https://scontent.fiev1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...58&oe=5E14BDEB https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0a&oe=5DC85281 As we travelled along though, it wasn’t anywhere near as bad as had been described by the Czech girl. It was slow for sure, but manageable. Finally, about 100km outside Almaty, the road improved and to my surprise, the horizon filled with the sight of snow capped mountain ranges. https://scontent.fala4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ff&oe=5E142A90 If this was any indication to go by, the next 4 nights I’d booked in Almaty were going to be a great place to rest and recover! |
- ALMATY (PART ONE) -
What a city! The first night started off right with finding a café next to the hotel that had some killer shashlik; looks like it’ll become the ‘úsual’ meal spot https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c9&oe=5DD35A13 Dinner with Yosuke and Hide who have been with me since the end of Mongolia and Brian from Denmark who I had been speaking with on Facebook to form a group to cross China but we happened to arrive in Almaty at the same time https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ed&oe=5DDDC19C The first full day I had pencilled to get the bike sorted starting with changing this damn front tyre I’ve been lugging around since Barnaul Now one thing I forgot to mention in my last update is that on the last stretch to Almaty, I spotted a crack in the rear tail plastic underneath where the tyre was sitting. https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5DDF7529 Of course, how could I have been so silly. The tyre was resting loosely on the actual plastics rather that on the subframe like the luggage. The last stretch of bad tarmac and the abuse on corrugated roads while trying to find camp must have caused the tyre to smack the plastic and crack the tail. No big deal, in my mind I was already thinking of a couple of ways to fix it 1. Just duct tape the whole thing up, just a crack so it won’t be that bad 2. Drill some holes and stitch the crack up with zip-ties 3. Find a plastic welding place 4. Seeing as Kazakhstan is full of sportbikes and Almaty is bound to have even more, maybe even source a 2nd hand tail piece. However, when I went to take the tyre off the bike for the first time since seeing this crack, the true extent of the damage was revealed. The whole rear plastic had been smashed completely off the subframe and was hanging about an inch lower now, held in place only by the mounting clips at the front; this was a big problem. https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c1&oe=5DCDFCE2 https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...37&oe=5E137283 https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...03&oe=5E0C5348 Yet again, luck was on my side. A local biker named Daniyar who had caught a taxi out to meet me told me about a place called Master Plastic which just happened to be 1km from where I was staying! Mainly seemed to be dealing in repair for car front and rear bars https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6b&oe=5E0BCF27 So, I headed over there and despite a lack of English, we were able to determine exactly what needed to be done. https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e5&oe=5DE0E34B https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...31&oe=5E0AB328 $8AUD and 45 minutes later, the tail was back on as good as new! https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...79&oe=5DCCEDEE Now to get rid of this damn tyre. I put the tyre on around my waist and headed over to the Freerider workshop in the centre of town to get my front tyre changed after a good 10,000km life. With that sorted, it was now over to the Japan Bikes shop which was literally next door to my hotel to buy heated grips. I had been told by other places in town that it would be impossible to find them in summer but, luck prevailed again. Although I got the grips installed fairly easily on my own, it would have to wait for me to road test them as I got knocked out by some strange combination of a stomach bug and fever which had me in bed for nearly a day and a half. Maybe I’d need to rest up a little longer in Almaty…could think of much worse places to be stuck! https://scontent.ffru6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9d&oe=5DD44E95 |
- ALMATY (PART TWO) –
Seeing as I had been knocked out of commission for nearly two days, I decided to book another 3 nights in Almaty. The hotel was nice enough and I really wanted to do at least one day ride out somewhere. Plus it would allow me to try and avoid some forecasted rain Throughout this trip I keep thinking that I am mostly just riding from point to point and not doing much sightseeing. However by the time the ride has finished for the day it is usually evening and I am too tired If I do take days off, they’re mostly spent tidying up things on the bike, sorting out equipment, doing admin type things like updating my expense tracker or even these blogs which I am doing my best to maintain on Facebook, Instagram and 2 forums all with slightly different content to share as much as I can. And if not any of the above, simply resting in bed. My body has come a long way since Vladivostok where I was complaining about all sorts of pain. The back pain is only popping up now after extended periods of riding but goes away fast, now its just a general body soreness but nothing too bad. The worst is that every morning I wake up with my fingers aching a lot and recently they’ve even started locking up at a certain point before extending further too; not sure what that’s about. Other than that, long days of off road cause my wrists to swell a little which I’m sure I’ll have to endure for the duration of the Pamir which will be coming soon. Anyway, back to the riding! With new heated grips on, I decided to take a trip up to Big Almaty Lake, perched high up in the mountains to the south of Almaty and what a view it was! The heated grips were also amazing, so happy to have them on. My hands hurt like hell in Mongolia at only 2500m, so the Pamirs at nearly 5000m are surely going to test me. https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...68&oe=5E0B4779 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1d&oe=5DDDEEC9 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3e&oe=5E0BEC85 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5DDF3BD3 In the evening, I had made contact with the Almaty Bikers group on Instagram, so just like Astana, they came in a group to take me out! https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6b&oe=5DE0C7D6 One of my favourite photos; WHY A GIXXER? I’m often asked this question and the simplest response I have is, because its my bike. I’ve owned this bike for over 10 years now where it has gone from being a weekend toy to a track bike and finally a travel bike. I have travelled other parts of the world on other GSXR600s but this one is mine. I have a fascination with seeing numberplates in places where they don’t belong. So seeing this photo from a night out with Almaty Bikers makes me so happy to see my standard Sydney numberplate alongside Kazakh plates in Almaty. Of course it’s an added bonus that the photo is taken from another Gixxer nearly the same as mine Once I am home, I look forward to taking a few minutes every now and then to just look at this bike and know in my mind all the places it has been. My bike. https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4b&oe=5DD49AB1 We first went up to Medeu, up another hill near the city, which has a large ice skating rink. This is where the locals come to cool off when it gets just too hot in the city Kiril in the middle and Stas to the right, from Almaty Bikers https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5DD4002C After that, we were taken to a nice restaurant in the city where the main admin of the Instagram page with whom I had made contact, Stas, paid for everyones dinner as it was his 31st birthday! Interesting point about Stas, as we were exchanging Facebook details, I realised that we were already friends on Facebook….but how? A few months ago, I had been in touch with a biker from Holland, Peter Muurman, who had done Central Asia and also Africa on his Ducati 996. He had told me to get in touch with a guy named Stanislav in Almaty as a good contact; turns out Stanislav and Stas were one and the same, I just didn’t realise it till a couple of hours after we’d met! With Kiril and Stas https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...24&oe=5E0A9196 From there, it was onto the Almaty late night hangout where bikes, modified cars and police all congregate; just like the Astana hangout! https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5E159D59 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5DCB7182 https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...43&oe=5E0AB499 Both these places brought back memories of home for me; having owned several heavily modified cars, I had spent many a late night at places like this. Wonderful people, everything I needed to fix the bike and a beautiful city; I was going to miss Almaty… https://scontent.ffru7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...eb&oe=5E0D1677 |
(Catch up; Charyn Canyon, Kazakhstan to Karakol, Kyrgyzstan)
- A NIGHT IN THE CANYON – After parting ways with the other bikers, it was time to find a place to camp for the night. Unfortunately, due to previous incidents of bikes riding down into the canyon and getting stuck (Ewan and Charley of Long Way Round fame being one of them), it was prohibited to really get much further than the entrance. Even so, we found a spot overlooking the Valley of Castles and set up for the evening. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=5DF383DE https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5DF71769 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c4&oe=5DFC2A73 After a nice dinner, I tucked in for the night but was curious about how bright it seemed outside despite being almost 10pm. It was a full moon! Unfortunately, I was not carrying my DLSR and unlike my Android phone which I lost in Russia, the iPhone didn’t have any ability to try some long exposure shots. But seeing the night sky and 2 shooting stars in the middle of the vast canyons is something I won’t soon forget The following morning, it was onwards to the small border with Kyrgyzstan. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5E08CF90 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8c&oe=5E379277 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5E0A5DC3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c5&oe=5E05B7BF The majority of the road to the border wasn’t bad at all with only the last 10km being a bit of an unpaved mess. Met a Russian biker coming the other way who as usual was surprised with our choice of bikes to head into the Pamirs with https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9f&oe=5E3D3D5A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d8&oe=5E3DAD3C The border crossing for both sides together took less than half an hour! Best one yet Unfortunately, that’s where the easy morning ended. Right after the border the road all but disappeared and turned into rock and heavily damaged asphalt. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...59&oe=5E3A6A5B Some Russian bikers coming the other way had said it was like this the whole 150km to the next town of Karakol. I was hoping and praying that they were somehow wrong and my research on iOverlander stating it was only poor for 40km was correct https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f1&oe=5E0A865B As always, my research trumped listening to others and within 37km we were back on good roads towards Karakol. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b6&oe=5E00D9C4 It seemed that luck was again on my side as the roads were quite wet suggesting we’d just missed a big downpour. Pulling into Karakol, I found a nice little homestay which was very homely (as the name may suggest I guess) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...82&oe=5E0CBACE When I asked them about dinner, they suggested a stolovaya around the corner (a type of eatery typically found in Russia where there is a canteen with various dishes and you select which ones to add to your plate to make a meal) However when I got into this place it was the complete opposite to what I was expecting! There were about 6 different small outlets with foods ranging from traditional to western and a setup where you sit down in comfy booths with 6 different menus and the waitress will let you pick and choose what you want and bring it all back from the various places. I decided to treat myself to two burgers, fries and a caramel milkshake. However as my hunger was slowly satiated the weariness took over and I probably could have fallen asleep right there in the booth. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5E0929C3 Time to rest up to continue on through Kyrgyzstan and see what it has to offer |
Waking up in Karakol, I realised had probably the best sleep I’ve had in a long time; didn’t wake up once for 9 hours straight!
After some quick morning maintenance, I set off towards the nearby Issyk-Kul Lake which I was hoping to get to the other side of today. A bit of help with maintenance https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5DF85A5E And some security too https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3c&oe=5DFD75A7 One thing on my mind was Kyrgyz police. So, just like Kazakhstan, I was doing my best to observe speed limits which can be tough given poor signposting. A biker back in Kazakhstan had told me that she had just blown past any attempts by police to pull her over; not sure if I was quite ready to employ the same technique. But then came the moment of truth. A police car had passed when I was pulled over for some water so once I was back on the road I should have known there may be a chance they’d be up ahead. But being pre-occupied with dodging potholes, I didn’t see them till it was right in front of me with the police waving the baton to pull over. Flight or fight … I knew I was under the limit and the police car was parked with its bonnet up and the other cop chilling in the passenger seat; they didn’t seem too keen on this so I gassed it. Kept checking my mirrors for the next 10 minutes but no harm done. They were probably just looking for an easy pay day As I got closer to the lake shore, it was very cool to see bright blue skies and blue water on one side while the other side was grey skies and tall, snowy mountains. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0f&oe=5E05D9FA https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...50&oe=5DFA6EE1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...eb&oe=5E0BFB74 Coffee break by the lake https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ec&oe=5DF1B5C3 An abandonded yurt camp alongside the lake with some beautiful murals all around https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cc&oe=5E0952A3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d4&oe=5DFC7ECC Even on the opposing cliff side https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c8&oe=5E01F33D I was also noticing a lot more cyclists on the road; perhaps a popular country to travel overland by bicycle The stay in Balykchk was fairly uneventful. Just another hotel, lagman (traditional noodle dish) for dinner and rest. A traditional Australian meal in the depths of Kyrgyzstan; a servo sausage roll https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5DEF7776 Onwards to Bishkek, the capital, the following morning What was really disappointing was the road was a beautifully surfaced dual carriageway but limited to 60kmh! While it was tempting to open it up a little, there were numerous warnings on iOverlander about police with speed traps set up throughout the canyons. And sure enough, there they were. However, despite my best efforts, I still got pulled over. I was doing around 55kmh in a 60kmh zone but the policeman was trying to tell me it was a 40kmh zone due to construction. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5E043E53 After a couple of times of me challenging him to show me anywhere it said 40, he lost interest and told me to go, only to then pull over the next foreign plated car passing by. So again, seems like more of a money grab exercise. Getting into Bishkek was yet another big city but I was able to take some comfort for the next 3 days in a mammoth airBNB that was costing me less than a guesthouse once again. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...41&oe=5E0501EE https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...50&oe=5E08B6EB https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...84&oe=5DF53282 It was also a good opportunity to stock up on some essentials as well as nab myself a new jumper to add to my layering and hopefully be enough to combat the cold in the upcoming mountain passes. When walking around, I heard the unmistakable sound of a GSXR so ran across the road to check it out. Max, originally from Russia but now living in Bishkek with his 2008 GSXR600 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5DF81F7B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5E379768 Main square in Bishkek; lots of parks in this city to explore https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...78&oe=5E0BD444 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E3AF542 Changing of the guard at the flag in the centre https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3e&oe=5E038FDC |
Bishkek to Osh via Lake Toktogul & Naryn River
The ride from Bishkek to Osh was fairly long at 600km but oh so scenic! The initial plan to get it done in 2 days went out the door as I started stopping frequently for photos but also passing through small towns meant constant traffic (and of course police watching the speeds) The route took us along Lake Toktogul which was a bright blue and the Naryn River which was an almost unnatural emerald green. First view of Lake Toktogul https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E0554AE https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c7&oe=5E022516 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5DF0D3EB A mirror for the sky https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bc&oe=5DF7327D Lunch break by the lake (police not part of the plan) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9e&oe=5DFB9330 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d2&oe=5E0BF7CC Naryn River Just when I thought the view couldn’t get any better than the lake https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...85&oe=5E0259B0 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1d&oe=5DF0B597 On the way out of Bishkek, I was somewhat aware of there being a long and narrow tunnel on the way but it wasn’t until a local biker told us that the tunnel would be closed from 2pm till 5pm that there was a sense of urgency. Turns out that the tunnel is so narrow that traffic flow is controlled as large trucks cannot pass through in both directions at the same time https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5DEF918A As I started climbing the pass I noticed that the warning light was intermittently coming on at low revs….but every time I tried to take a second glance it would be gone https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...34&oe=5DFE170B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5E089D43 By the time I got to the top of the pass, and the start of the tunnel, it was 145pm; just in time. But right then, the bike completely cut out. Every time it started up again it would cut out instantly. With time running out, I started it up, kept the revs high and made my way into the tunnel. It was narrow! And the lack of lights meant I was travelling in near darkness with my little headlight being rendered useless by the haze of diesel smoke from trucks all around me. But after a stifling 10 minutes, I got out at the other and pulled over for the bike to shut down again. The only thing I could think of was that the perhaps my idle was too low so I tried bumping that up and voila, it runs! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5DF220F9 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b1&oe=5E01B4A6 Ah, such a nice view Let’s stop for a photo Hmm, bikes standing a bit upright but should be ok It seems a bit windy though... https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...92&oe=5DF2E82C DAMNIT https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...21&oe=5E0B9BAB Continued along the other side of the pass without incident but after a long day decided that Osh wasn’t possible today so called it a day about 50km short; of all places, at a spa resort! But the room was cheap enough and it was a place to rest! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...67&oe=5DF2627B A Mongol Rally car en route from UK https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c6&oe=5DFF10D3 Staying in a traditional Kyrgyz yurt https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4f&oe=5E032D56 An amazing spread for dinner https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...92&oe=5E375275 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5E3B6B02 The homestay hosts https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5f&oe=5E3A5D10 Never alone for long even during a quick road side break for water https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1c&oe=5E37566A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...65&oe=5DF3C232 These kids came running up from the river they were swimming in just to say hi! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...76&oe=5E0A633B The following days ride to Osh was fairly uneventful but I did take a little detour to stop in the town of Uzgen which had a minaret and mausoleum from the 11th century; the Silk Road days! The Uzgen Minaret https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5E3DED0F Uzgen Mausoleum https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f4&oe=5E0B14CA https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fe&oe=5DF1EB50 Getting into Osh it seemed like the forecast ahead was looking favourable for a clear route through the Pamir Highway across Tajikistan! Another Mongol Rally car in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e3&oe=5E067817 |
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- THE PAMIR HIGHWAY –
Osh is often regarded as a start/end point of the Pamir Highway. From what I’ve noticed, there are 2 kinds of travellers in Central Asia; those who have finished the Pamir Highway or those who are going to the Pamir Highway. It’s an infamous piece of road that stretches between Osh, Kyrgyzstan and Dushanbe, Tajikistan. Along the way a popular detour is the tough yet beautiful Wakhan Corridor which follows the Panj River with Afghanistan on the other side or the even more challenging Bartang Valley Now that I had finished crossing the vast expanse of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan it was time to get myself and my bike ready for the Pamir so Osh was the best place to not only get a couple of days rest but also tend to the bike as it was about 6000km since my last oil change in Mongolia and this time I wanted to do the filter too. Some much needed R&R in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e4&oe=5E07B221 The shop in Osh charged through the roof but I was able to pay $10 for half a days use of a shed in their backyard to work on the bike myself. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7c&oe=5DF4EF17 As I started pulling the bike apart however, I found a major issue. On both sides of the bike I have additional bracing rods going from pillion footpeg to rider footpeg which support the subframe and also act as bottle carriers. One of these was now hanging on for dear life due to missing bolts! No doubt rattled off from vibrations of the last 10,000km+ roads A bit of duct tape to patch up the plastics from the last tip over https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E095ECF But as always, issues pop up at the most opportune times! Already in a workshop, it wasn’t too difficult to source some new bolts and after a liberal application of LocTite get it all fixed up again (was hard to use it sparingly as it turns out that carrying a compressed bottle for months on end in luggage gets a bit messy) Onto the planned oil and filter change along with cleaning the air filter and the bike was set for the first leg toward the Pamirs A big old beast of a Unimog back at the hostel; these guys could go anywhere they wanted! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b1&oe=5E0C2163 A traditional samsa in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...da&oe=5DF09962 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...82&oe=5DF64B16 A not so traditional pizza https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fa&oe=5DF16F85 The first days ride itself was quite an easy one from Osh to Sary Tash, covering around 200km. The road was quite winding going from the tame 1000m elevation in Osh to a more respectable 3000m in Sary Tash. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E0C7E87 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5E367432 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...68&oe=5E3BA64E While the scenery was beautiful it wasn’t dissimilar to what I’d seen coming via Naryn Lake so I didn’t stop much. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2a&oe=5E3C9C85 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4c&oe=5DF62F77 Just outside Sary Tash https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f0&oe=5E3B2974 Parked up in the homestay in Sary Tash; this kid loved the bike so much he couldn't stop hugging and kissing it https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9a&oe=5DF99E5E https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...48&oe=5DFA8D16 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e2&oe=5E3AD11F Could feel the cold at this altitude as temps dropped quite suddenly once the sun started setting https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...29&oe=5DFC6703 Inside my room at the homestay https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5E01470C A slightly different samsa for dinner https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5E07F05E Rise and shine https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5E3AAD52 So I’d started climbing now (and taking altitude sickness pills just in case) but I think the toughest is yet to come with the next section being the first tougher, unpaved pass and across the border into Tajikistan https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5DF72463 |
Also, I love the use of the tool tube as an emergency frame slider. ;)
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- PAMIRS – THE DODGY TAJIK BORDER –
The first challenge in Sary Tash was getting the bike started. Despite getting it going after the tunnel yesterday, it once again would start but then die. I bumped up the idle and that seemed to get it going. Still not sure if it’s the colder temperatures or altitudes doing this but once its warmed up, I got the idle back down and everything was sweet Todays journey was only about 95km but it would have another obstacle; the Kyzyl Art Pass. Kyzyl Art Pass is a roughly 25km stretch that lies in no-mans land between the Kyrgyz border and the Tajik border (located just after the peak of the pass) Leaving Sary Tash with the Pamirs on the horizon https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5E373ADB https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c9&oe=5DFD26EE While the pass had a fairly tame elevation of 4200m, the concern was the surface. From all accounts, if there is any sign of moisture at all, rain, snow, anything, the pass turns into a mudpool and becomes near impassable Given that the GPS showed it was 45km to the border I started getting a little worried when 30km in, it looked like the road was still fairly flat. Passing the Kyrgyz border was fairly quick, just had to hand in the customs declaration form for the bike that I had gotten made up for the second time at the Mongolian/Russian border (1st time was when entering Vladivostok) First photo in no-mans land after crossing the Kyrgyz border https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...53&oe=5E095011 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e5&oe=5E02ADC3 As I continued plodding along into no-mans land and although the road surface got much worse, the incline was still barely there Then finally, there it was in front of us, Kyzyl Art Pass. Forget needing an incline gradient sign, we could see in front of us that the climb to the peak shot straight up. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b8&oe=5DF61A88 After a couple of obligatory photos by the sign before beginning the ascent. The road was covered not in usual dirt and rocks but a red dirt which was dry yet deformed with ruts from all the vehicles that must have gotten bogged whenever it was wet. It was very easy to see how this surface could become a veritable mudpool if wet and why people say to simply stay away from it in rain! But finally, after completing the whole climb in 1st gear, I was at the top next to the goat statue which I had seen in so many peoples photos over the years. I was truly overjoyed to finally be there even if it was a little hard to breathe at the high altitude. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2b&oe=5DF44E00 A look back at the red dirt climb just waiting to become a muddy mess https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...34&oe=5DF5454F Another couple of kilometres on and it was the Tajik border! But just like I had done my research to ensure dry conditions for the pass, I was also aware of the scams they try to run at the Tajik border While the first office is very friendly and processes your documents along with an official $10USD fee for road tax, it’s what comes after that is a little shady. While my documents were being processed, I was talking with a soldier, Farroukh, in passable English about how he was originally from Dushanbe but posted here for one year. He also enjoyed the Fast and Furious movies. However, once my documents were ready, he suddenly lost all his English and started gesturing for me to go to a second hut up on a hill. But I knew better. This second hut is where they try to demand fees for cleaning, veterinary tax, disinfection or whatever else they may make up. From other travellers reports, refusal is often met with abuse and anger. So I just straight up refused to go anywhere, stating that all my documents were done so I should be allowed to pass. Farroukh did half-heartedly try a couple of times but finally opened the gates and I was into Tajikistan!! The pass on the other side was still unpaved but much better than the red dirt and in no time I was gazing upon the beautiful Karakol Lake alongside which I would be spending the night in a small homestay for my first night in Tajikistan. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cf&oe=5E3571C4 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...86&oe=5E02D6DF A fence running alongside is no-mans land towards the Chinese border Someone left this gate carelessly open... should I? https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...87&oe=5E3BFF8E A downed bridge after the Tajik border that everyone said results in a water crossing that was extremely fast and deep after 2pm as the snow melts increase I was rushing to try and beat it only to find it bone dry Lucky! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8c&oe=5DFE1744 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b9&oe=5E049BFE Karakol Lake coming into view https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9d&oe=5E3AE1A0 Homestay in the very small village of Karakol https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ab&oe=5DF961CD The town is nothing more than a few shacks https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...67&oe=5DFDFEDC Children of Karakol https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...94&oe=5E053006 Homestay Sadat https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5e&oe=5DF32A53 |
Excellent write up, planning a trip in the opposite direction from the UK next year if all planets line up! Thanks for the effort to document!
Gino & Fiona |
PAMIR – THE LAST BIT OF ASPHALT
Leaving Sary Tash I had the same problem again of getting the bike started but as usual, bumping up the idle temporarily, got it going. Leaving Sary Tash https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a6&oe=5DF97463 Today I’d be taking on the highest pass along the Pamir Highway at 4600m, Ak Baital Pass. However it wasn’t as steep on either side as yesterday and didn’t have that terrible red mud. As I made my way up to the climb of the pass over the heavily corrugated road I had one of my moments where I wonder why the hell I am doing this to myself. Do I really want to subject myself to even more pain in doing the Wakhan Corridor?! I hate corrugations https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ab&oe=5E04A725 iOverlander said there was a caravanserai along the road (a roadside inn from the days of the Silk Road) but I couldn’t find it plus I was getting real fed up of the corrugations; maybe I’ll try harder on the way back On the approach to Ak Baital; climbing off in the distance https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0c&oe=5E396D98 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...de&oe=5E01957E At the peak, met a Mongol Rally team who were far behind the rest of the pack but told me they were perhaps the most travelled having covered 13,000 miles so far! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6a&oe=5DFD7C0E https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5DFCD7B7 Shortly after, I tried using my drone to do a follow-me video where the drone follows the rider but of course it didn’t work and I spent half an hour hoping and praying while walking round trying to find the drone after it ran out of battery and landed somewhere. I was knackered after just a bit of walking, how the hell are cyclists doing this?! Meeting a Ukrainian biker on the other side of the peak https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...26&oe=5E392959 An abandoned village https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f0&oe=5DFE9902 Getting into Murghab was a slight surprise as I thought it was going to be a city but turned out to be another village with just slightly more shacks. Went down to the bazaar made up of shipping containers and bought a SIM card with a 15GB plan only then to realise that Tajikistan has next to no mobile coverage through most of the country so I’d be lucky to even use 1GB. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b8&oe=5DFDFBED The town water pump with a lady shovelling coal in the back Such a tough life it must be, especially in winter https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...54&oe=5E0C54B7 Looking back at the way we came https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0d&oe=5E00C991 Getting back from the bazaar however I had a big surprise in meeting two Italian bikers with whom I had last crossed paths in Mongolia! They had a bit of a problem where they’d been counting on getting cash out in Murghab only to find that none of the ATMs worked. Now they only had $30USD between the two of them for all of Tajikistan! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...47&oe=5E3A0660 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5DF4F495 Room with a view https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5DF4F495 Maintenance time in Murghab before the Wakhan Note the bicycle in the back. So much easier to do your chain with the whole thing upside down! Also the first Aussie I’ve actually met in this whole trip! From the inner-West suburbs https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...79&oe=5E0B32FC After a days rest in Murghab, filled up fuel and set off to Alichur 100km away. A very small town but right after Alichur is the turn off to the Wakhan Corridor so I would rather do that as a fresh day on its own as the first leg is about 130km. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E3714ED https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f9&oe=5DFCFCF7 Quite an uneventful but windy day made up of damaged asphalt with an average speed of 40kmh. Came across a Dutch biker on a big GS who had a Grossglockner sticker from Austria on his bike same as mine! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5c&oe=5DF40CED The guesthouse is Alichur was nice and comfortable with electricity only provided by generators in the evening. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5DFBBA23 I was starting to feel very nervous and anxious about the Wakhan Corridor On one hand, everyone says it is beautiful but on the other, my bike really isn’t suited for all this offroad stuff and besides being slow and difficult, it’s causing me pain as well… |
PAMIR – WAKHAN BEGINS
This was the day I was equal parts dreading and looking forward to; turning into the Wakhan Corridor. A route along the Wakhan Valley that runs along the Panj River with Afghanistan on the other side. I was looking forward to seeing life in Tajikistan, and Afghanistan across the river, with the beautiful views in between however was not looking forward to the road. Nearly every blog I read had stories of people crashing, deep sand, gravel and so on. I had met people who had told me about not if they had fallen off but how many times they had fallen off. People hired cars to send their luggage ahead. Although I’d only done 100km since yesterday, I thought it prudent to top up fuel before heading off. Of course, from a traditional Tajik bucket system in a non-descript house https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...54&oe=5DF7F261 As we pulled up to the little unmarked turn off 24km from Alichur, it was make or break; continue along the highway or turn off into the dirt. I turned off. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5DF6B9AD Nearly right after turning in, there was light sand on the surface over corrugation which then turned into much deeper sand as we neared a small lake https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a7&oe=5E3A8514 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E3BB538 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a3&oe=5DF7DDD6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5DFA8290 From there it just got tougher with long stretches of a mix of sand and gravel around 20cm deep till we started clmbing up the very rocky and narrow Khargush Pass And as if climbing wasn’t hard enough, on the way down the other side of the pass, the front wheel rolling off rounded rocks nearly sent me off the edge of the cliff https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e9&oe=5DF687C5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DF3A250 There weren’t too many other vehicles on the road; passed one Mongol Rally team who was waiting for their car to cool down a little and got passed by the big Unimog wed met in Osh except this time there was another Unimog with them! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...09&oe=5E037ACA The Panj River comes into sight... and sound. The force of the flow was so strong you could hear it Also the first time I could distinguish Afghanistan as being right across the other side https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...47&oe=5DF2F2CF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5E33AC57 As the day rolled on, we were only averaging about 10kmh so finally around 5pm decided to call it a day having only made it halfway to Langar (most people complete the trip to Langar in a day) and found a camp spot which was perfect! Secluded from the windy, a soft sandy base and someone had already set up a little kitchen with rocks! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5DF3EF64 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f1&oe=5E3851C5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e0&oe=5DFA011F I’d been carrying a few tea bags since Almaty (nicked from a guesthouse) Just for such an occasion https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...16&oe=5E388CAA https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8d&oe=5E0ABE30 |
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Are you doing the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan corridor, or actually going into Afghanistan? How difficult was it to do the visa stuff? |
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I only did the Tajik side of the Wakhan. I would've loved to cross into Afghanistan but to be honest I didn't even look into it and I also have a bit of a time deadline to cross China. The Tajik visa is very easy through an e-visa system. Pay and receieve within a couple of days |
It had been a cold night camping in the Wakhan but it was peaceful sleeping by the sound of the river.It was a slow start to the morning but some tea bags I had from Almaty were a little luxury. There was only 44km to cover today but it was going to be tough
https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e8&oe=5E003BAF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E0AD45F https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e8&oe=5E05F78A As we were about to set off, the Unimogs rolled up again, looks like they would be constant travel companions through the Wakhan The road got narrower but remained rocky as we climbed higher alongside the beautiful river https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9a&oe=5E35B684 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9a&oe=5DF0FDED https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5E34A65F https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...77&oe=5DF134DC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0c&oe=5E37361B There were a lot more bikers on the road today including one guy I had met at the workshop in Osh on an Africa Twin. Despite having a huge tank as well as 2 5 litre containers he had managed to run out of fuel the previous day. He hadn’t bothered to fill up at the last two places simply because he thought his bike would make it. But it seems degraded fuel quality in the Wakhan threw off his estimates. A perfect example of why I fill up every chance I get no matter how little it is https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8d&oe=5DF6A432 Bit of an obnoxious guy too Just jumped on the Monkey and took it for a ride https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cf&oe=5DFD9DE1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a6&oe=5DF8E0B1 There were a lot of deep sections along the way and at one point the bike was bogged to a point it was standing on its own in the gravel. I contemplated getting off to get a photo but the wind was still swaying the bike side to side so thought I better not risk it just for a photo. There were beautiful views of the mountain ranges on the horizon as we continued climbing higher and the landscape started getting more lush as well https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...df&oe=5DF194DC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...62&oe=5DFDE6BD https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...18&oe=5E06F0AB https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5DFEF40E https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b4&oe=5E32ED0A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5DEFA0E1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1a&oe=5DF786BA Everytime I was on one surface I would wish it was another and then when another would come then I would wish for another. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a2&oe=5DFA72F3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...24&oe=5DFEC1D9 As we were nearing Langar, we ran into Unimog guys again, this time they invited us for tea and biscuits. Finally! But it was nice as we were getting hungry and didn’t have a lot of food on us https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d5&oe=5E3AE778 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...45&oe=5DFD987C The descent down to Langar was tough. I knew it was going to be steep but each hairpins were deep sand which had me white knuckle grip and some how crawling through each corner praying I didn’t topple over the side of the cliff (a fear I had all day and was happy I was doing the Wakhan headed west rather than east which would have me riding on the cliffside) That’s me far off the distance crawling down sandy switchbacks https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2a&oe=5E05FCF5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DFAB8F9 When I finally got to the homestay (mehmankhana; a word I recognised from Hindi as it seems the Farsi spoken here is starting to have similarities to other languages I know) in Langar, I was so glad to have made it through this section which is supposed to be the hardest. It took us two days whereas it takes most people a day but at least I got it done without any falls or mechanical issues! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5E334C52 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...14&oe=5DFCBBE1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E056041 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5E01D283 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...35&oe=5E36AAA4 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5DFBDD94 Really hoping the next sections are better as people are saying. Mongolia prepared me well but this was definitely tougher. Glad it is behind me but also glad I gave it a shot. |
PAMIR – MY FAVOURITE DAY
The reports about the road onwards from Langar were a little mixed. Some said that the hardest part was behind us but a particularly loud cyclist at the homestay insisted that there was some seriously tough road ahead Leaving Langar https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ad&oe=5E012B5C Finding out for myself would have to wait a little though as we didn’t get even 2km from Langar to the next village of Hisor and I saw a big festival taking place in a compound by the road. I stopped to peer over the wall but the people insisted I come inside, so, I did. It was a vibrant festival full of traditional music, dance and singing. I felt so lucky to be able to see it https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d1&oe=5E0A24C7 Back on the road, the surface was fairly rocky but much better than yesterday! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b2&oe=5DFDEC53 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6c&oe=5DEF2FAB A quick stop for fuel in Vrang (by bucket of course) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...65&oe=5E3A0FD1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5E074721 We also made a decision to only cover about 50km today as there were some nice homestays at Yamchun to split up the journey to Ishkashim On the way, I tried to visit a museum in an effort to take in more than just whatever I see from the bike but failed at actually finding where it was. Above the homestay there was also a Silk Road fort but the 1km climb to the homestay was so ridiculously steep that I ditched all plans of climbing another 7km to the fort. However, the climb was worth the homestay with a wonderful man named Akim who had been a professor in Russia. He lived there in a traditional Pamiri home with his wife, daughter and grandson. It reminded me of my grandparents home while wandering around Akims vast fruit and vegetable garden, apricots drying on the roof, overlooking the fertile Wakhan Valley with Afghanistan in sight. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...32&oe=5DF3D9F5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e4&oe=5E0826CD https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...78&oe=5DEFA1B3 Akim with his wonderful garden (this is only a small part of it!) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...76&oe=5DFD4F8A Akims wife at a tandoor (traditional oven) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...94&oe=5DF9C25A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f0&oe=5E374DCB I was able to have some great conversations with Akim in my broken Russian while we sat in his family room watching the evening news (Afghani); there had been bombings in Kabul https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...63&oe=5DF81FDF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...14&oe=5E34E1C7 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f6&oe=5DFD4061 A place to sleep in the Pamirs https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DF205B4 It was so surreal to think that this country we always hear about in trouble was literally across the road seeming as peaceful as can be. In conversation it came up that I worked in IT and Akim asked if I could fix their computer which was having some issues. Not really knowing what to say, I agreed, only to be brought out a printer. Turns out their computer problem was actually a copier that wasn’t working (required to copy passports of guests staying with them as per government regulations) At first I was a little perplexed and didn’t want to sound too stupid but then I was sure…there was no toner cartridge at all! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f7&oe=5E05A5B7 A great days ride, a colourful festival, good weather and a lovely family. Today was my favourite day. |
The ride back down from Yamchun was so steep (and rocky) that I thought I was going to go over my handlebars.
https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d1&oe=5DFB6D42 Another short 50km to Ishkashim today and the road surface was improving so I was determined to do some sightseeing! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a8&oe=5E3BE0D1 But first, I had a chance to make up for another lost opportunity. Going up a small pass there was a deep sandy section. I started slowly making my way through it as usual but then realised the bike was stuck. I had missed out (made a smart decision not to) on taking a photo of the bike standing upright in gravel day before yesterday and it had been bugging me! I stood up off the bike; it was still standing Ok, here we go, lets get off and get this photo… noooooo…..and over the bike goes on top of me https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...33&oe=5E323992 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...98&oe=5E39EA75 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E01BF9A Luckily it was a very soft landing into the sand with no harm done but I should probably give up on the idea of this photo Bikers from Slovakia Check out the Rossi plates on the Ducati https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...26&oe=5E3BDFC6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...aa&oe=5DF18918 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...21&oe=5DEFBA59 I stopped off at a small museum run by a talented musician who gave me a history lesson in Russian of the Pamir and Wakhan; his family lineage could be traced back to the area over a thousand years! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...df&oe=5E376B14 Inside a traditional Pamiri home The number of rooms, pillars and everything has a certain significance https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...06&oe=5E345AEC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...41&oe=5E3C50A5 Right opposite the museum was another fort too; Khaka Ata Fort. This region was very sought after due to how fertile it is so the people defended it well. It was also a major thoroughfare along the original Silk Road The front garden of the museum with Khaka Ata Fort walls visible on the opposite cliff https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...42&oe=5DF10752 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...02&oe=5DF93232 Inside the fort https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b7&oe=5DF808D4 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3a&oe=5DF5B9C3 At the front of the fort. Not much seems visible besides the outer walls https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...76&oe=5E0899E2 An easy day with interesting people and experiences. The early difficulties of getting into the Wakhan are definitely paying off. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5DF663C0 |
Ishkashim was the first place in Tajikistan that felt like a town of sorts with paved roads and even traffic lights
So it made sense that the road was improving allowing me to cover 100km to the next city of Khorog; the furthest point I’d be going west on the Pamir I had originally planned to go to Uzbekistan but dialled that back to Dushanbe in the interest of not rushing through the Pamir where it would be once in a lifetime that I’d be there on a bike After hearing horror stories about the road and traffic conditions from Khorog to Dushanbe, I decided to simply turn around at Khorog and take the main M41 Pamir Highway back to Murghab then Osh (should be better road than Wakhan) to rest and wait for my China crossing The road along the river was still a bit rough but as asphalt started appearing just outside Khorog I couldn’t resist opening the throttle up a little and hitting sixth gear for the first time in ages A Russian biker we met along the way taking a video of the Gixxer https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E3C7CAB And who’s that in the back? UniMog! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...42&oe=5E010F3F https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d0&oe=5E355FB9 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4b&oe=5E046249 Afghanistan was so close I could hear the children in the school https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0a&oe=5E374C88 Freshly made samsa for lunch https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f5&oe=5E328D5B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...09&oe=5E05F359 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1b&oe=5DF3DAAF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2b&oe=5E32D929 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c6&oe=5DF797B6 At a checkpoint along the Wakhan with girls selling fresh apples There are a few of these checkpoints where you need to show your visa with a special GBAO permit for the region and they record your passport details https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fc&oe=5DF5FDC7 A sandy soccer field for Tajik v. Afghan games? https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d7&oe=5E085F4D A brightly lit mansion on the Afghan side https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...09&oe=5DFBF9C6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b8&oe=5DF2C1C5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5E3A05F2 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5E034E2B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d7&oe=5E085F4D Khorog was a nice place to recharge with a change of food at an Indian restaurant https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...67&oe=5DF3626E I may have gotten a bit too adventurous and ate at a blatant Maccas rip off; Mac Doland which was worse than going hungry and had left me feeling a bit ill https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5f&oe=5E3B1015 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5DFBE0B1 There was also a KFC (Khorog Fried Chicken) that I had planned to try but best to give that a miss I think Khorog Bazaar https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...61&oe=5DFB29C7 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1c&oe=5E392635 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5E030FE6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...83&oe=5DF46C56 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5E34C687 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...48&oe=5DFE1DE7 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...69&oe=5DEF1B7D |
I had been nervous before riding through Mongolia
A little hesitant before riding through the Wakhan Valley But I was truly scared when a 3km descent down Kyzyl Art Pass lay ahead of me in no-mans land between the Kyrgyz and Tajik borders A couple of days ago I was hesitating to carry on due to my health, this time, it was snow. As I’ve mentioned a couple of times before, the Kyzyl Art Pass which lies in no-mans land between the Kyrgyz and Tajik borders is especially steep on the Kyrgyz side and composed of a red dirt that turns to mud at even the slightest hint of moisture. I thought my weather checks had been going well and our crossing would be 2 days after snowfall on the pass. It wasn’t until a cyclist who had come from that direction mentioned that he had ridden through snow that I managed to check the forecast again (over barely any internet) for the day of the crossing; it had been snowing 2 days prior consistently! The rest of the week showed clear but weather in the mountains is constantly changing; what f it kept snowing? The risk with snow is not the snow itself but when it starts to melt and turns into water. I didn’t take this lightly as I had seen first hand how steep the pass was and also the remnants of deep, muddy ruts from vehicles that hadn’t been as fortunate with the weather. More than just a fear of mud though, maybe it was compounded because I had come up the pass weeks prior and knew exactly what it was like or perhaps even the fear that I was so close to finishing this part of the trip and didn't want to stuff it up! After much deliberation, I set off. The strategy was to try and head off early in the morning (not so early that it was super cold but early enough that temperatures would still be below zero so the snow wouldn’t have melted yet) Heading off from Homestay Sadat in Karakul for the 2nd and final time https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fe&oe=5E322DDA It was cold! Super cold. I was thankful for my heated grips but for some reason was only wearing half the layers I was carrying. I felt bad for Yosuke though as he only had one heated grip working As we made our way up the Tajik side of the pass over the corrugated road, I also felt sorry for the cyclists; those silly, silly cyclists, what the hell were they thinking doing this crazy stuff?! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9b&oe=5DFAB3E8 As we rode on, I was consciously watching every small river we passed being frozen solid; a good sign! But I could also see a clear blue sky above and slowly the water was starting to flow. The Tajik side of the border was very easy and then it came, the dreaded red stuff. Exiting the Tajik border post https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4a&oe=5DF9F7CC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8e&oe=5E061B28 My riding buddy for the past two months; Yosuke on his Honda Monkey https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9c&oe=5DF5AC43 The snow had already started melting and there were some streams flowing across the path but they were light. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...af&oe=5DFC1832 My hands were in pain from the cold but I couldn’t wrap them around the heated grips as they were poised on the clutch and front brake slowly crawling my way down the steep hill trying to make sure I kept the front wheel straight through any mud https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0c&oe=5DEF205B And we made it! It was a slow crawl but we made it. For sure if we had come any later the snow melts would have made much more of a mess. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5E011C82 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...15&oe=5DFC1ADF Red mud flung over the bike as a little caution of what could have been https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5DFAB2D1 No more red mud! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5c&oe=5DF52C96 But the road does fall away sometimes https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e7&oe=5DF5B7B3 A lot more snow than when we came by here a couple of weeks ago https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E052E26 Crossed back into Kyrgyzstan! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5DF0F90A Back on tarmac just outside Sary Tash A hero shot of the hero bike https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fd&oe=5DF9AB64 We did it!!! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e9&oe=5E330EC3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b9&oe=5E38FE79 From there on, it was easy sailing onwards to Sary Tash and then a paved 200km to Osh. The winding road back to Osh (my 2nd time doing it and I'll do it once more to return to Sary Tash for my China crossing) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0e&oe=5DF85112 There's a little truck somewhere behind all that hay https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f7&oe=5E044D6C https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DFD36AD https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ee&oe=5DEF6997 Our last biscuit lunch together on the road https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f1&oe=5DF27F3E A celebratory pizza party back in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5E04BC05 Washing the Pamir off the bike https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...12&oe=5DFA34C9 Farewell dinner for Yosuke who has returned to Japan and will come back to his bike in Osh in February https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...27&oe=5E311F38 And in Osh, nothing! I was getting into Osh with about 9 days till I had to head back to Sary Tash for my China crossing but it was just what I need to unwind and regroup; sort out any small issues on the bike, eat good food and watch things on Netflix I’ve seen a million times before! |
Sorry for the lack of updates, I was behind the great firewall of China while crossing from Kyrgyzstan to Pakistan!
I would like to be chronological and write about my China crossing however the first full day of riding in Pakistan was just too good not to share! (I will get the China crossing stuff up as soon as possible) After spending the night in border town of Sost the first item on the agenda was some maintenance on the bike. Liaqat from Asia Star guest house who helped me work on the bike and get the luggage strap fixed A dirt cheap room at 1000PKR especially when the first government run motel wanted 4000 Also helpful that he used to be a chef as he made me an amazing chicken karahi for dinner https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....49&oe=5E33FFC7 On my first day in China I realised that my low beam headlight was blown! This normally wouldn’t be a problem as I never ride at night however this also happened to be the first time I HAD to ride in the night till 2am due to numerous and prolonged police checks. Ok, not a problem, going forward I don’t usually ride in the night anyway right? Not quite, in the 80km stretch from the Khunjerab Pass border till Sost there was a small tunnel which made me realise that riding in pitch darkness with only highbeams was not ideal AND that there was a 10km tunnel coming up on the next stretch! At least I had a spare bulb which I’d had the foresight to carry. Unfortunately, carrying it in soft luggage all this way left it looking a little worse for wear https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....7f&oe=5E35D124 I was scared to try and bend it back lest it break so mounted it as is, but of course, then it doesn’t light up the road quite right. So I took it out and tried to bend it back and to my relief it was just unseated, not actually bent! Unfortunately I touched the glass which I know you’re not supposed to do so hopefully that doesn’t cause any issues I’d also been a bit lazy about changing the headlight sooner as while its normally quite an easy job to remove one bolt to the dash and replace, it was more complicated now due to an additional metal brace I’d added from the main frame to the front fairing stay which utilised the same mounting. Next up, whilst getting my tools out of the tail I realised that one of my Kriega straps had frayed so badly it was hanging on by a thread. I didn’t have a spare of these but I was in Asia where a fix meant walking down the street and getting it patched up with some leather free of charge! From there, it was time to get onto the road for my first full day on the Karakorum Highway (KKH) and man was it beautiful. My first time seeing the colorful Pakistani trucks https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....45&oe=5E3B1B8A I’d been thinking what’s the big deal, I’ve been seeing mountains in various countries but the sheer size of what surrounded me was mind blowing. First view of the famous Passu Cones https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....31&oe=5E349C28 https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b6&oe=5E37C4BD https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b3&oe=5DFEDEBF https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b0&oe=5E2B4488 And the view ahead was just as impressive https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....60&oe=5E357710 It was nice to just take my time on the road without any worry of police checks like in China or even time as I was only covering about 50km The hotel owner had suggested I stay in Hussaini near the suspension bridge and do some long walks however after even the 10 min walk to the bridge from where I parked the bike I realised my fitness is absolute rubbish and continued on into the Hunza Valley to stay in the capital of Karimabad. Walking down to the Hussaini Hanging Bridge https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....43&oe=5E2F73CE This is as close as I got It’s not a big deal to ride 15000km to get here but I’m still scared of heights *♂️ https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....97&oe=5DFF40EF On the way back I stopped for a drink in the yard of a local villager selling produce from their garden This is chumoos, a traditional apricot juice The gardens reminded me of my time in the Wakhan which kind of makes sense as geographically I’m quite close to the Wakhan in Tajikistan and Afghanistan; just on the other side of the Pamirs https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....99&oe=5E2DC788 Attabad Lake Formed in 2010 by a huge landslide that destroyed a section of the KKH Till two years ago the only way to cross it was by boat The Chinese have now built a long tunnel which has essentially realigned the KKH This is why I needed a headlight https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b9&oe=5E27A3DD https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....37&oe=5E30F58E I got into Karimabad in the late afternoon and after a wrong turn ended up at a great place called Haider Inn where I’m paying $9 for a single room with an amazing hot shower beaten only by the view over the valley and the Rakaposhi mountain. The view from my room in Karimabad https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....91&oe=5E369EF7 https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....d0&oe=5E29A4AC Sunset over the Hunza Valley with Rakaposhi in the back https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....92&oe=5E3A39B2 https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....fb&oe=5E2D55EF Looking back up towards Karimabad https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....f0&oe=5DFAE5E9 I’ll stay here another night at least to go visit a UNESCO listed fort tomorrow and the local bazaar. I’ll also need to give some thought to the next week though as it looks like there is a few days of sustained rain and snow that I’d ideally like to avoid. |
The day off in Karimabad was well spent mainly between visiting the old Baltit Fort sitting atop the city and also just relaxing with beautiful valley views
The steep alleys in Karimabad up to Baltit Fort https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5E290526 View from the top of Baltit Fort https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ca&oe=5E270074 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f6&oe=5DEEF331 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7c&oe=5DFA104E https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...90&oe=5DF82380 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b6&oe=5DF497BF https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ff&oe=5E3D65C8 I set off early (by my standards) from Karimabad as it was a 200km trip down the KKH to the next accommodation; a place by the highway just next to a petrol station. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E38D20F There was a town nearby called Chilas but I was advised to take Babusar Pass for which the turnoff was just before Chilas. So why go further to the town if I didn’t need to The ride itself was quite nice with a few points of interest well signposted that made for some nice sightseeing. The sacred Hunza Rocks that I had accidentally ridden past the previous day that I came back to see They contain graffiti from the days of the Old Silk Road https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5DF1C0A6 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5DF9DCAC https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5E348CF5 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3b&oe=5E2C446A https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5DF5DE73 I travel the new Silk Road with the Old Silk Road carved high in the hillside above me (can you spot it?) How tough it must have been https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5E3B9634 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DFAC599 I was starting to get a little hungry too but passing through small towns couldn’t quite decide on a café that looked good enough to not blow my stomach to bits. As I was passing through one small town, I saw many small trucks selling bananas. I stopped to ask how much for one and the guy was a little lost for words after I clarified I just wanted one banana, not one dozen. So, he gave me two free bananas; free lunch! https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...36&oe=5DFA01C4 Ok I'll look to my right https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...77&oe=5E24566A https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2e&oe=5E3B0852 But then suddenly the road completely disappeared! I had been told that the road gets a little worse before Chilas but the KKH went from being a buttery smooth road to the usual rocks and sand that I’ve gotten used to slowly crawling over https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5DF1F7CD https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5E27F0DE As I got to the petrol station that I needed to fill up before he turn off to Babusar Pass, the hotels that I had thought would be there, weren’t; it was literally a bunch of small shops along the main road and nothing else Onwards to Chilas it is I guess https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1e&oe=5E332533 When I got to the turn off, there was a large police checkpoint who wanted to know why I was going to Chilas. I told them I just needed a place to sleep for the night and asked if there was any other alternatives around. There wasn’t. They told me to check back in with them on my way out the next morning. As I got into Chilas, it seemed like a quiet little town and I turned into the first guesthouse on the left and got a decent enough room down from 2500PKR to 2000PKR. It had air conditioning but sadly no hot shower. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...17&oe=5E3C6439 Normally I never watch TV but for some reason I turned the TV on and across all channels was the breaking news of the Pakistani Prime Ministers return from a speech at the UN General Assembly about the changes India had recently made in the disputed territory of Kashmir. Although I’m an Australian citizen, my background is Indian and through all my years of travelling to the corners of the world, for the first time, I felt uneasy about where I was. It doesn’t take long for people to figure out my Indian heritage, a question I’d already been asked many times since entering the country (and slightly made more confusing by having an Islamic first name despite not being so) I ordered some daal and rice from the kitchen in the hotel and the guy was kind enough to make it for me and bring it to my room. As I ate, I was craving a can of Sprite but I just felt uneasy going out into the town at night. The guy from the kitchen sent out for one but couldn’t find one. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5DF4C132 I shrugged it off and went to sleep. The following morning, I had a quick breakfast and hit the road. Just outside the town there was a sign for some ancient rock carvings. I pulled over to look at them and as I was walking around trying to find them a Pakistani guide who was leading a Japanese woman explained to me that a lot of the carvings had been destroyed or painted over as the people of the village still lived by Taliban ideologies. Suddenly it all started to fall into place. iOverlander only mentioned two hotels in town (which I saw after Id already checked into the guesthouse) and both had comments that these were the only ones deemed safe by the army. Since I’d arrived last night all the men Id seen had been dressed in a very conservative manner unlike the more relaxed culture further north. Women were nowhere to be seen and in general the town had a vibe to it that I didn’t feel safe going out even for a can of Sprite. And there it as in front of me now, ancient rock carvings painted over with an ubiquitous black flag. It was time to get the hell out of here. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5E2A069A https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...97&oe=5E2E92A5 It was only when I met another rider, Marko (with whom I’d had contact on social media and knew he was coming the other way), that I started learning more like the fact that Chilas was one of the last places the Taliban had “officially” been pushed out of. And then when I next got Internet and met a Malaysian rider, I found out that there had been multiple murders of tourists and less conservative Muslims in the town and the hills surrounding it. The Malaysian rider coming the other way had also been advised by police to stay away from Chilas. Of all the nights I could pick to stay in a Taliban town it had to be the night where Pakistani patriotism was running high against its mortal enemy; my place of birth… Pakistan is a beautiful country and I’ve experienced great hospitality from the people I’ve met but I just need to keep moving through which saddens me |
From being worried and apprehensive to a great day!
As I mentioned in my last update, it was only on my way out of Chilas that I started finding out more about the rough situation in the area, so it was good to get back on the road even if feeling a bit anxious. The road itself was still fairly scenic through the valleys although there were still some broken sections. A truck that doubles as public transport https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...43&oe=5E3923AE https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...98&oe=5E2238B4 Colourful houses in the valley behind Babusar Pass https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a3&oe=5E2F8E7A The steep and winding switchbacks leading up Babusar Pass https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bd&oe=5E272D2B The other side of Babusar Pass https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...36&oe=5E1DAA64 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...70&oe=5E2EA4B1 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E33B593 I had been told about a bus crash a few days before and here were the remains 26 dead :( https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0b&oe=5E2F0690 On my way so far, I had seen plenty of small bikes mostly belonging to the local villagers however there were a couple of local bikes I had seen with simple camping gear on the back and given a wave to what I expect were Pakistani guys exploring beautiful parts of their own country However when I saw a group of about 10 bikes parked up together I felt compelled to stop and I’m glad I did. As I started talking to them, one guy looked familiar so I asked him his name; Moin. Yep, I knew him, Moin Khan! Many years ago I remember reading his ride report on ADVRider as he had ridden his CBR (another sportbike) from America to Pakistan and on the way had gotten into a fairly big accident in Romania! He was leading a group of tourists up north and was kind enough to give me some information on road conditions and some water too (helpful since I was actually low on water and one of my two energy drink cans had managed to remain intact but puncture somewhere and leak all 250ml into the tank bag) https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e4&oe=5E3A0818 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2c&oe=5DF2A9A1 I was very excited to meet and talk to a fellow sportbike tourer but of course we both had to keep moving in our respective directions. Unfortunately I also found out from him that my Saudi friend, Omar, with the GS310 that had battery issues in China had now had an engine failure and had been loaded up on a truck to Islamabad. https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ab&oe=5DEFE1C9 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...81&oe=5E28FE72 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5E373649 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...91&oe=5E1C473C https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...95&oe=5E3717D8 Farmers working their stepped fields https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...13&oe=5E3875C9 With Marko headed from NZ to Croatia https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7e&oe=5E3BBDE1 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ea&oe=5E2CD894 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7a&oe=5E1BF5FE https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...84&oe=5E2FA768 For the day I had planned to stay in Naran, a hill station that seemed popular with locals and an abundance of hotels. Since I had no SIM card, I had noted down a few hotels with good reviews and amenities such as having a generator running due to unreliable electricity. The first place I pulled into was Manila Huts where I managed to get a great room for 2000PKR where their usual peak season rate was 14000PKR! https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f6&oe=5DF26F6D But besides it being a great room with safe parking, the people were the kindest I had met so far and not only eased my mind of the concerns of the past day but filled by heart with joy from their kindness I was told to get freshened up and then join the staff in the garden for a homemade lunch of daal and roti after which they used the chairs to set up a makeshift boundary in the garden for a game of cricket. https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d8&oe=5E3B8486 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4f&oe=5E1B5E84 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cf&oe=5E22FDC7 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e7&oe=5E22D33A Later that night as I was about to walk down for dinner a big BMW was pulling into the hotel in the rain; a Malaysian rider headed up towards China https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...72&oe=5E1C7F6F https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6b&oe=5DF20CD4 We went down to a restaurant where my excitement for Pakistani led to some over indulgement despite being very aware of the hot chilli laced throughout. Unfortunately this floored me for the next day and even though I was half packed and ready to leave the following morning, my stomach just hurt too much. 3 nights in Naran was unplanned but it was a beautiful place with beautiful people. https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b2&oe=5DEF6357 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0f&oe=5E3D9D37 Islamabad is only 250km away but I think it would be a very big day so the plan is to break it up in Abbottabad. Its been a good break lazing with Netflix (and another dinner with the staff where I had some delicious chapli kebab despite it being a touch spicy again) but time to get moving again. |
Stay safe my friend. Keep posting please - great write up of a great journey
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Same keep up posts really enjoying, bringing back memories of my own previous trips Mongolia and more recently Pakistan recognised some of your place pics. Safe travels.
Thanks Joe |
P.S. You are not alone riding is OK but I was also not keen on the Hussaini bridge!
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When it came time to leave Naran for Islamabad, I felt like I’d shot myself in the foot for having taken an extra day on account of my stomach.
The forecast now showed thunderstorms throughout the afternoon along my route. However staying in Naran further was out of the question as the following days were snowfall! Obligatory photo of hotel staff with the bike https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b5&oe=5E63E611 Luck was on my side as always and I managed to miss the rain except for the last hour coming into Abbottabad. Incidentally, this was also my first taste of traffic in cities, something which I’m getting pretty worried about as I get closer to India https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6c&oe=5E2FC42E https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5E2E3B29 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5E2E3B29 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5E32CB33 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...06&oe=5E1CEDAF https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...52&oe=5E63E18E https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9b&oe=5E1C6948 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3a&oe=5E21A5B0 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5E31A77B Looking down onto Abbotabad https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...11&oe=5E24617A Although there was not a whole lot to do in Abbottabad, I decided to stay here an extra day as there was rain forecast the following day also, a day where I intended to take a scenic mountain route to Islamabad instead of the main road through many small towns. Unfortunately it seems that my chain is once again playing up with tight spots after having replaced it in Barnaul, Russia due to the same problem. After speaking with some people it could be that my sprockets are in poor condition since the first chain and this has caused the new one to go bad too. I’d been procrastinating checking my front sprocket (thought it was hard to get the cover off but took 5 minutes), but when I got it off, I pulled out a ton of build up from mud, road grime and chain lube. Before https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...74&oe=5E627FE4 During https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4d&oe=5E2F828F After https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f2&oe=5E5FFBDC https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...32&oe=5E3326F3 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5E1BA8BF https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...47&oe=5E24ED72 Although my ride will end in India, I figured I may as well replace chain and sprockets as I found some in New Delhi. Better than causing any further damage or a possible failure. The road to Islamabad was quite good with winding roads through the mountains before a final descent down into the capital. The decision to wait a day paid off as it would’ve been annoying in a thunderstorm and my stomach still wasn’t letting me thoroughly enjoy my ride. https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...49&oe=5E27A60D https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...11&oe=5E1F7F81 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5E2B29C6 Hopefully a few days in Islamabad will get my health back on track and get stuck into some Pakistani food |
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I’m in Lahore now but I’ve been having too much fun the past week or so and gotten lazy with updates!
I ended up staying 5 nights in Islamabad (4 planned, 1 unplanned but more on that later) mainly because it was the first place I had friends to meet! I had met Hamza in Sydney at the gym and even though the carpark was completely empty, I’d always park my WRX next to his Skyline (Car guy things) Hamza has 2 heavily modified Evos in Islamabad and through him I met a group of other great guys and got to take part in one of my favourite activities; eating with friends! We wouldn’t head out till around 11pm and then stay out till 2am or 3am taking in some of Pakistans best food! As difficult as it can be many days, I’m going to miss life on the road. However more importantly, I’m going to miss the great people I’ve met and the amazing hospitality I’ve been shown My first dinner of kebabs in Islamabad https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7b&oe=5E21DC25 Out for a late night drive in the Evo 6 after dinner; just like home https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...69&oe=5E5CC36D https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2e&oe=5E1CC0D4 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E5CF9B5 Hamzas other Evo, a 9 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b9&oe=5E19F6CA https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=5E2D8DEA Fahads AE92 with a 3SGE swap and lots of very rare JDM bits like a digital dash as well as bits from the Holden Nova! https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bc&oe=5E2EB840 Heading to a drift meet https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...18&oe=5E2B34A2 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...59&oe=5E62E35D https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...62&oe=5E1BF2FD https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e7&oe=5E31C4A9 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7f&oe=5E5BD2B7 Dinner at 3am https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5E24DC25 Faisal Mosque https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...81&oe=5E6254E4 |
The plan from Islamabad was to head towards Lahore and onwards to India. Unfortunately the night before I was due to leave we were sitting around watching car videos on Youtube which then became food videos showcasing all the amazing meat on offer in the city of Peshawar about 200km to the west near the Afghan border
https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5E245366 So, Peshawar it is! As I rode along the highway to Peshawar, I felt the bike hesitate and went to pull aside. Could it be the fuel filter/pump again which had caused hesitation in Russia Then I also noticed that my hazards wouldn’t come on and upon coming to a stop the whole bike died and wouldn’t start back up. Ok, this seemed to be electrical My first thought was to pull it apart and start testing as I suspected a charging issue, specifically the stator as I had already upgraded the reg/rec on this bike after a failure in Aus. And the behaviour was very similar to a stator failure I had on my K3 GSXR in Europe. I was also hoping this would be the issue as I’d been lugging around a spare stator in my bags (along with some other spares which with my limited mechanical knowledge I had identified as more likely failure points) But what good was testing on the side of the road. I’d seen a Motorway Patrol car go past me just moments after I pulled over so decided to wait and see if another one came by so I could make a call to my friends in Islamabad for help (I don’t have a local SIM card) Broken down and waiting for a police car to pass by https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...56&oe=5E624E6C After about half an hour with no police passing by, I started walking. First to a street cleaner who had no phone and then to a group of soldiers who were also broken down in their Hilux! Gave up waiting and started walking away and hoping the bike and luggage will still be here when I get back https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5b&oe=5E6481AB Thankfully they let me make a phone call and within the next half hour a little Suzuki truck was on its way to pick me up and take me back to Islamabad to my friend Fahads house. https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...59&oe=5E1B1D5F https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...dc&oe=5E16EA7D https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...45&oe=5E20179E Unfortunately as I got set to test I found out my multimeter wires had split due to being rolled up and stored for so long in my luggage so I just decided to pull the stator out and have a look since I had a spare. It wasn’t super toasty but definitely looked a bit black so in goes the cheap Chinese eBay spare I had been carrying with me. https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d9&oe=5E29044C https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7c&oe=5E28A505 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5a&oe=5E200420 Bike was all back together and we jumped it from another battery however it still wouldn’t remain running. The confidence I’d been feeling about my diagnosis and the fact I had a spare stator started to fade away. If it was the regulator/rectifier (reg/rec) I was in big trouble. A girl a few weeks ahead of me who had ridden her CBR from Europe had been stuck in Pakistan for nearly a month waiting for a new stator and reg/rec to arrive; I couldn’t afford that sort of delay. Fahad suggested we take the bike to a small local shop who specialised sport bikes (or heavy bikes as they’re referred to locally) Of course the bike was dead so the only way to get it there was for Fahad to get on my bike while his brother rode another bike beside him and pushed with his foot through Pakistan traffic! Once there, we began testing again and my doubt that the cheap Chinese stator was faulty was alleviated, it was making electricity. So it had to be the reg/rec By some stroke of luck, the owner, Shakka, had an old 2008 CBR reg/rec lying around so after a bit of cut and shut we got it onto my bike and it ran! While the shop looked like any other small shop, Shakka knew what he was doing and even owned Hayabusas himself. https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5E317C7E I also took the opportunity to get my horn mounted properly and sounding as loud as possible for the upcoming traffic. Till now, I had it held on with cable ties and sounded like a dying mouse. So, an issue that had left others stranded for nearly a month, I had overcome within the day; ready to take another crack at going to Peshwar for some amazing kebabs! 1am dinner after a marathon day https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b8&oe=5E3284EF |
Excellent ride report and pics. Please keep it up. It serves as a great inspiration for me, and hopefully others, soon to start our own 'grand tour'.
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Sorry for the long delay!
I'm now in my final country but for the last month have been without my bike due to a breakdown that has seen me getting ripped off by local mechanics and now awaiting parts I spent a lot of time stewing in anger but now have to accept it as part of the adventure I am a mere 80km from the final destination of my home town with the clock nearly run out till the bike has to be shipped home Really hoping I can finish what I started Till then, may as well catch up on posting! |
I was a bit worried, but glad to hear you are OK.
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