Security Situation Western Sahara / Mauritania
 

Hello all...

I've read a fair bit on Mauritania as there seem to be some travelers who have recently or are about to travel through. The UK foreign office paints a fairly bleak picture of the security situation but posts on here seem much more upbeat. I'm going to be traveling into Western Sahara and then Mauritania from 9th Dec down through to Senegal. I've traveling on my own in Series 1 Discovery so will stand out a fair bit.

What are peoples recent experiences of security in Western sahara and Mauritania? What recommendations can people make on routes through Western Sahara, things to see places to stay. In terms of Mauritania I'll be sticking to the Noukchott - Nouadhibou corridor, I'm a virgin when it comes to thiis area so would really appreciate thoughts from more seasoned travelers in this area.

I've traveled a fair bit but not in West Africa. Any advice or synopsis of peoples experiences will be much appreciated. Once I'm on the road I'll be posting my experiences regularly so hopefully people can benefit in return!

Thanks!

I don't think a Land Rover Discovery will raise any eyebrows in Africa, unless it's decked out with some Top-Gear-stunt related paintwork or rego.

In WS most people stick to the highway as access inland is limited (see the Morocco forum) and comparatively unscenic.

Mauritania, it's all here in recent posts. Going direct from NDB to NKT the Sahara will all be over before you know it. If you're in a 4x4, take advantage of escort-free regs and follow the rails from NDB to Choum and/or Atar (RD here). Maybe you'll meet someone at the border to come with. Then nip up to Chinguetti or just Terjit oasis before driving down to Senegal. You may only be here once - make the most of it ;-)

Ch

Thanks Chris, I've been meaning to source a copy of your book for a while...your helpful advice was the catalyst I needed to actually do it!

Anyway, by the sounds of it the security situation is OK in Mauri at the moment and the route that you've suggested looks interesting although (call me nervous!) this is in a band of Mauri which is advised against all travel by the FCO. I take it by your reccomendation that you personally think it's ok at the moment? Sorry to push the point but would you mind clarifying your thoughts on security in the area along the NDB to Choum route particularly sleeping overnight as you do seem to have the most experience of the region.

Thank you in advance for all your help!

I see what you mean about the latest FCO map (below) which shows a red band along the horizontal border with WS.

The question is: does that band cover the railway and adjacent piste to the south of it?
Or does it just refer to the area north of the rails which has always carried small risks (landmines)?

I would interpret it as the latter, otherwise the band would be much broader to eliminate any ambiguity and it would not reach right to the coast including the highway out of NDB. This exposes the arbitrary nature of the FCO zoning, even though they are much much better than they used to be. The French 'FCO' currently have a mildly less severe map. Important to remember it is travel advice, not an edict, and they of course err to the side of caution.
I have not driven this route for many years but have read here that the track has become much better formed than it was in my day (not that orientation was ever difficult) and that checkpoints exist now.

Depending on when you arrive, these checkpoints may try and insist you overnight there, but I would guess that is only because that's what they've been told to do with foreigners, rather than any real threat from banditry.

Of course my opinions are only based on information anyone can read, but there is also long experience in interpreting where real dangers might be. The short version is: if the area is off limits the police won't let you pass.

Assuming you are travelling alone, it can be intimidating setting off along a long desert piste (as I mentioned to someone else recently) - even a technically easy one like this. The best thing would be to eye up a possible companion in another vehicle as you head south towards NDB (or off this forum). Even just a bike. Everything feels less daunting when there's someone else around to hold back the paranoia. Such temporary travel arrangements are common in the desert and part of the fun.

Then, when you get to Atar (no need to go via Choum), you will think that wasn't so hard - bring it on!

(It's hard to think why the FCO have put Chinguetti in the red zone, but if it's so risky you will be stopped from leaving Atar on the single main track that goes there.)

I say all this because a lot of people shoot through Mauritania and so the Sahara and miss one of the best aspects of the drive to West Africa. You will not forget the couple of nights you might spend on the piste in the desert.

Ch

" Everything feels less daunting when there's someone else around to hold back the paranoia."
I totally agree with that!

And about trying to find travel's companions on forume and even in the country, don't forget (unfortunateky) to be as discreet as possible because some hostile ears can know your plans.

Have a good trip, Mauri is the only true "desert country" for the moment and it's very nice (I've tried last year).

RR.

TGIF! so a little humour
 

Your garden is a dangerous place... !

Thank you for your very informative post Chris. I'm currently waiting for a copy of your book to reach me and am looking forward to reading through the routes you've previously talked about. I'll definitely try to reach Atar if I can find someone to come with me, driving a D1 disco always worries me slightly in case of breakdown but then again that could happen anywhere!

I'll report back in full when I'm down in Mauri! thanks again

Chinguetti and Ouadane?
 

Am planning a short-ish trip within the next month or two, flying into NKC and then driving up towards the piste you mention (the one that goes along the rail line headed east) to see how far east it is possible to go, and am interested to go to the area of Ouadane while i am there (i don't know if it is possible to go to see the Guelb er Richat? )... Does anyone know if that is possible or have a suggestion for a local contact around Chinguetti? Any recent travels in that area? Thank you.

Western Sahara - Mauri - Senegal.
 

I came through here on the coast road 10 days ago on a bike. One thing to be aware of, if the Mauri customs belive you will pass directly to Senagal they make you pay extra, and take a guide. I narrowly missed this but others got caught.

A Dutch couple I met in Zebrabar, got through the border by 10am but waited all day for the guide who made them, and 15 other vehicles, drive through the night in convoy to be at Rosso by 9am the next day.

Rosso is of course as bad if not worse than ever.

Although on my own for much of the desert I had no security concerns.

Does anybody have an idea why the British FCO have just changed the map for Western Sahara? The border area with Mauritania used to be yellow (against all but essential)....but is now showing as red.

Has something happened recently that I've missed? Or are they being cautious out of general concern?

Attachment 14210

I don't know the answer in the case of the latest change to W.S. A couple of years ago the FCO map for Algeria changed suddenly and I asked the Political Secretary at the British Embassy in Algeria (whom I happened to be meeting about some science project in Algeria) why it had changed. He couldn't tell me the exact reason (which he knew) but it was changed as a result of some intelligence that the Algerians had picked up and passed on to the Embassy. Later it turned out to be interception of chatter relating to the convoy of insurgents in the region. So, in short, the change won't be random. There will be a reason.

If I remember well, it was since several years that the French Foreign Affairs Ministery has put this border in red; see below:
Mauritanie - France-Diplomatie - Ministère des Affaires étrangères et du Développement international
I don't think that there is some changes in this area about security issues.
RR.

This may be the reason why...

Menace terroriste: Les frontières sous haute surveillance | www.le360.ma
borders under scrutiny

Les FAR en état d’alerte à la frontière avec la Mauritanie | www.le360.ma
Moroccan army on alert at the mauritanian border

Even taking into account some anti-SADR spin from Morocco, that is unnervingly close to Guerguerat.

We are currently in Burkina, driving from London to Cape Town in a Defender 110. Having passed through WS and Mauritania in Jan 2015, we managed to team up with another guy also in a Landy to drive the Iron Ore rail route. Was pretty amazing, highly recommend it, although I don't think we would've done it on our own. If you stick to the southern side of the tracks it's not so bad, although there are three good sections of soft sand so a good chance of getting a bit stuck. Once you get to Atar, Bab Sahara can probably assist with finding a guide/info about Chinguetti.

There's heaps of roadblocks from the border into and back out of NDB, none along the actual railway, and then a few more on the piste to Atar. Just make sure you've got enough diesel and water and you'll have a great time!

Hi. I will start tomorrow the piste towards Atar. I am pretty scared about the sand but will try very calmly on my own...
Will tell you more...

Sorry and happy to write that I had to quit.
By far it has been the most dangerous place I have known.
For me it was impossible to deal with the sand carrying so much water and gasoline for 650 kms of nothing.
I tried to make it by the railroad but it seemed very easy to get a puncture and the train passing almost toaching me scared me to death.
Spent three hours for 30 kms and saw nobody. When it was flat I tried the piste but always ended surrounded with sand and falling, taking everything off the bike to lift it watching the precious gasoline spilll. Dehidratation would have come very fast.
Will never try anything like that.

That's a difficult track to do alone on a loaded bike, even if the nav is easy.
I remember even in November we had to stop to let the cars cool down.

You know you can put it on a train to Choum, like they used to do with 2WDs before the road to NKT.

Gracias Chris. Yes I knew about the train but had to try for myself.
Found a very special auberge in Nouakchott, just 500 meters North of the port de peche, by the beach. Impossible to miss, with huts and restaurant and perfect to visit the port just walking the beach.

Hi there,


I too plan to travel from Morocco to Senegal. To me the easiest way looks like following the coast line. i.e. Tah-> El Aajun->Dakhla->Nouadhibou->Nouhakchott->Rosso.

Would that be a good option safety wise?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers
Adrian.

It's by far the easiest: tarmac all the way.

There are tracks inland in the Western Sahara part of Morocco (good report here - quad fuel mule needed) but if you mean safety in terms of falling off and hurting yourself, better to stick the the road.

Tracks also lead inland once in Mauritania but, as you read above, hard work alone on a bike due to the fuel range needed.

If you mean safety as in getting kidnapped by AQIM-type gangs, it's never happened in Morocco and exceedingly unlikely in Mauritania now if you stick to the highway where checkpoints will rush you on from Nouadhibou->Nouhakchott in a day. It will be over before you know it.
The Brit FCO's current 'red zone' on the WS-Mori border is not helpful.

You may find Diama crossing downstream from Rosso less aggro. See the sub-Sahara forum. No visa now for Senegal, as you may know.

I have to admit that info about "no need visa to Senegal" is not correct. It works only for EU citizens. For me (russian) and for one of the travellers I met (swiss guy) visa is still required. And NO, they don't give visa at the border, only in embassy.

And no matter that they cancelled visa payments - you will pay "service fee" at the embassy which is 10800 ougiyas (~40 euro) in Nouakchott for example.

Speaking about Diama - it is more easy to cross border here, BUT. You have to go through national park. Which is leads to 2 things. 1) You will pay entry fee (not at the entrance, but in the middle, at police checkpoint). 2) You got to be a tough enduro guy if there was rain days before, because 20km of road is MUD.

As for about Rosso border cross - don't mess with any helper. Official ferry price is 40 ougiyas (~11 eurocents) and every other prices is bullshit (we met one guy who paid 5000 ougiyas for nothing, he even doesn't get his ticket). The border control will try to make money out of you so it's your decision - to wait or to pay. We decided to wait and it tooks 1,5 day.

Border west Sahara-Mauretania
 

I passed there several days ago and notice any securety issues at the border. Take a fixer - Arturo is a good one probybly 50 years old.

The only astonishing thing was a Polisario stop just after no mansland. We made pictures and had fun with them. Nice guys.

Edwin

Polisario
 

Update: my french friends just passed again the border and had this time troubles with polisario. My friend did have a sticker of Marocco on his hard case. Polisario forced him under gun fire to take it of, he sticked it on the polisario car and than they exploded, immediatly the UN forces came to calm down the incident, nobody understood why a stupid sticker can make them furious!
It's sensible there, take care, laugh as we did the way to etc.!!

It happened the 19th of march 2017

Tensions returning to Guergarat
 

I spent a week riding around in "the southern provinces of Morocco' (Western Sahara) during January 2019. I didn't go further south than Dhakla, and I didn't go off paved roads. But I did ride around quite a bit there.

In my opinion, the former Western Sahara (in fact, all of Morocco) is safer than a small village in rural Switzerland. The police have the area very well controlled, there are traffic stops about every 50 km on the main roads, and at the entrances to towns. The police are very polite & efficient - they recognize you are a tourist, have a quick look at your passport, and wish you a good voyage.

The main road down to Dhakla was in the final stages of being totally rebuilt when I was there. When it gets finished, it will be on par with any Swiss or German roadway - level, smooth, well engineered, and good sightlines.

I have no knowledge of Mauritania, I did not go south of Dhakla.

Michael