XT600E engine into my 34L FINALLY :)
 

so, after pranging the 600E (which i bought primarily for the engine and loom :( ) ive ended up with a buggered engine (crankcases cracked beond worthwhile repair/bent crankshaft) and a bent frame :/. ive now got my hands on a replacement 600E engine and am going to be putting it into my 34L frame.
ive had the top end off the new engine and all is good, looks like its been treated well, no scoring of the journals or cams and bore looks ok.
i would do a complete rebuild of it but i need a bike for comuting back and forth to my workshop (trying to start up a business) and the guzzi that im riding at the moment (86' V50) is having a few ignition problems :/.

anyway to the point, im going to write this as a build thread, ive always meant to but have been too un organized haha.
this time around im going to be very strict and make sure i take pics of the build ect .... :)

so far i have the 600E engine ready to go into the 34L frame, i will be mounting tomorrow :)

my only question is about the carb situation - the 600E carbs are slightly larger on one of the inlet sides (between airbox + carb). i was thinking, appart from leccy start and gearbox differences is there alot different between the 34L and 600E fuel system? could the 34L carbs be used if jetted to 600E standard? if not how do i get around this as the 600E snorkles are very differently shaped compared to the 34L and would definatly not fit the 34L airbox :/

i will get some pics of the 600E engine and the 34L tomorrow (im determined to keep this build up to date :) )

many thanks for any info,
cheers,
josh.

I used the older carbs on my 3TB, pretty much the same jetting. The newer ones were jetted a little leaner. Watch the chain hitting the frame. The motor should be moved over(to the right) a bit plus/and the sprocket flipped and an 1/8" spacer between it and the seal to make sure the chain doesn't grind the bolts for the seal retainer off.
I used a key switch off a Yamaha Viper snowmobile and redid the loom. It starts the bike the same as car/truck, just turn the key past the "on" position, no start button needed so I didn't have to buy the righthand handlebar switch .

:D:D:thumbup1:

hi thanks for the info on the carbs, i've got a set of both so will try both sets with both jetting options.
i've just about got a lathe running so will be machining the sprocket my self (very excited :) )
i've read a couple of different methods of getting around the chain alignment issue...

1) flip the front sprocket and remove 5-6 mm from the shoulder and weld on a spacer equal to what has been removed on the other side.
2) same as above but remove 3-4 mm from the front sprocket and space the rear sprocket equally.

which ever route i go down i will just take small amounts off at a time, mount it, check the alignment and alter if necessary.

the bolts for the seal retainer i will be countersinking to avoid them being ground down, as long as removing any major protrusions from the crankcase.

i have already mounted the engine (bottom end as i need to remove a couple of sheered exhaust studs from the head)and began routing the loom, im lucky in that i have a donor bike and the loom is in fairly good nick so have all the electrics required (handlebar switches ect ...)

i've already broken my promise as i have forgotten to take my camera up to me workshop so lack any decent photos at the mo (the camera on my phone isn't worth using tbh haha )
will make sure to take some photos of the bike tomorrow :) :mchappy: