XT600 running issues
 

Hey guys XT600 1989 kick start

Finally i've been able to ride bike, put about 80 miles on. More questions.
Previous i had a problem with a surge around 3k-4k, switched out with another carb i had (also busted secondary jet). This carb worked better, not perfect but improvement. I think my surge/stumble comes from the make shift on the jet fix. I also have the secondary carb coming on slightly earlier on 2nd carb.

I am running I think a 38 tooth sprocket. Feels way to high geared with this set up. problem is i can't remember what the stock set up felt like (ages ago). Is anybody running this smaller rear sprocket? Feels like i will laboring the engine in 5th. I know this is an issue with oil to the gear box so I'm thinking this is a bad set up. But I am still sorting out the carbs so perhaps its not producing the power it should.
Both carbs run pretty similar power wise.

Also Battery/stator question
The battery is dead at moment probably junk at this point.
When the bike is running I still have weak lights, at times i have no directional or tail light. When I hook up to charger they work fine.
I thought the stator would power them all up good. Now the batt is dead and when running there is light just week. The battery did previously take a charger from the batt charger.
Could this be a stator issue?

Also the decompression cable is kaput. Now I know what it feels like to TRY and start without........ humiliating :rolleyes2:
I think this cable wasn't right from beginning
Anyone ordered one lately and know if there are other options? Ebay was empty.
Thanks
Greg

Got part # for decompression cable - 34L-12292-00-00
34L-12292-00-00 YAMAHA CABLE, DECOMPRESSION $23.75

With a bad battery the regulator/rectifier will not function correctly, new battery should solve your light problem. I had same problem, solved with new battery.

Make sure on new cable that you set the free play to 1/2 mm. This will give you maximum decompression when operated.

One of mine has a 38rear with 14 front for running around the 55 roads. It pulls it ok, I have 40T's one the others for better highway power. Stcok ratio is 15/43. My 14/40 is slightly taller.

Problem now is this old frame has a weld. mannnnn o man. I just wanted to get the good frame painted and hope i wouldn't need to get into the rh cover. I have to now because of the busted decompression cable.

uploading pictures. Perhaps I just switch over to other frame. If I cut it off then what? plus i have a leak from gasket (RH) that sprays a slight mist to rear tire.

Also the choke, I don't have the handle bar mount. Is there a tapered choke that works in steps? TT? I have one that's not long enough from a dt.

G

Wow, that's buggard up. Other than cutting the peg off the only choice would be to pull the motor out of the frame. The main side cover doesn't need to come off to replace the cable, just that little cap right where the cable is attached, but is right behind the foot pedal.

Yeah, po probably busted the bolt and well he did just buy that new welder.
I'm a dumb ass for taking my chances. I have a good frame that's just rusted up in need of love.

I will pull the motor out and fix up all the leaks, rocker head, sprocket ratio and carb jet. Then I'll see if my jeep can hold it up on a bike carrier.

Anybody know about my previous question regarding choke. I am looking for a tapered one in steps (holds its self open). I am missing hardware and linkage to handle bar

For these carb the handlebar mount is the only setup they come in, The '90's E models had the on carb knob style that will most likely fit, and I've wanted to try one myself but they are $45 new , and that's the only way a person will find them. Mine are all rather crappy.

Is ther any way you could cut the peg off and just re tap the holes?

YES I will cut the peg off and re tap it. I have to get an angle grinder 1st.
I will still evidentially switch frame over as this frame is not street legal paper wise.

i have to pull the rh cover to fix the gasket as well.

Surprised their isn't an alternative to the choke. My DT100 plunger is about a 1/2" too short. Bet their are other options.
I've 2 of these carbs with dangling wires

I have a new (almost) hand choke for a tt600 early model. Should fit all. I fitted it, then put the tank on, oops can't pull it for the fuel valve in the way. Took it out. 1st 25Bucks and shipping gets it...

Cut foot peg bracket off. The top hole I can re-tap it but the bottom is hollow. It only has the surface metal. Any ideas on a fix?
Thanks

some way- somehow your going to need to get a nut on the back side and weld it there.

?
 

hi a couple of possibilities
1. gently countersink hole, then weld tight fitting tube using the groove made by the countersink and the outside of the tube ,then flat file smooth,then tap inside of tube
2. get machine shop to put in a counter sunk head nutsert in the size you need, picture for reference as I cant remember if bolt is 8 or 10 or 12 mm
hope this helps steve

Where can you buy this?

Now that the nutsert has jarred my memory, it is 10mm x 1.5mm threads your looking for. I believe there is versions that can be put into a hole and then tightened up to collapse the back end to mushroom it from behind so it can never be pulled out.
Like these only in metric. McMaster-Carr

XT600 foot peg attachment
 

Hi ajax,

When you get your engine out and look at how the peg nuts are/were attached you will see why an insert will not work. There are pressed plates with nuts welded inside before these are welded to the frame.

It is a safety-critical attachment and stressed area. You do not want a foot-peg to go on you. You mention a spare frame, how does that look?

p

Put nutsert in. Was not so easy to get one. needed to order and mostly bags of 10 or more.
For the peg i got a 10mm 1.5 50mm long. The hole that receives the nutsert on the bike is 13mm. The hole needs to open slightly to accept the nutsert.

Seems solid enough.

Now make sure that top one is in good shape with full threads so it can basically hold everything on its own, then the insert will add strength and be safe. Just keep an eye out for movement with use. The fix, though not ideal should be good.