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It would come out $40-$50 for one, but for 2 or 3 I would think I can go down to $30 or so due to shipping being spread out. It's the shipping that's the expensive part of me doing them.
I'd like a good drawing or something of what is needed, I'm not sure if the US XT shock setup is the same as everyone elses. I've never been able to open Jens drawing up, My virus scan keeps calling the WINrad as a threat and I'm not going to force any download just for one picture. Nothing else I've tried even recognized the format. Even an actual picture of some shock mounts with a couple simple measurements will work. |
Winrar, winzip ect has been around for ages. Perhaps you just need to get it from a trusted source.
But I Will upload them here if thats The holdup :-) |
Winrar, winzip ect has been around for ages. Perhaps you just need to get it from a trusted source.
But I'll upload them here if thats the holdup :-) |
I have one of these also, you only need 2mm thickness on the steel. The difference with welding the bottom is that you can choose the height, with these ones min. is 25mm raise and that gives 5cm in the rear? I welded in 13mm and got about 2,6cm in the rear.
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/222/8rdi.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7466/owbd.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
Thanks, that's what I was picturing . Since I got this Windows 8 laptop, it is such a 'effed up operating system that I can't do much with it and nothing seem compatible with it. The computer doesn't ever allow me to do things how I want only what it says it wants, if that makes sense.
It does appear to be a bit different size than mine. The height that is needed was something I needed to ask. That one is 25mm, but would more be wanted,1.25(32mm),1.5"(38mm),1.75(44.5mm), or 50mm? I did Think of an adjustable one, but it would be a little long I think. The simplest would be to weld a solid chunk to a "U" shaped plate and then drill the holes, I have access to TIG welders for the SS. Otherwise I can cnc them out of solid. I imagine the holes need to be at 90degrees from each other to keep it from pivoting in both bolts and folding over. I'll make several of these and will need an address to send them to. |
You cant go down like i said, the bolt wont fit unless you have this 25mm. And i dont think you like to raise the bike more than 5cm in the rear, you will change the way the bike handle in curves unless your weight is 150kg and you push it down like standard..
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On all my quads I adjusted height and sometimes the leverage ratio by making longer or shorter link arms. It can be done with the bikes also, but they are a little more work sometimes. I'll have to look at mine to see how much trouble it is to make, some can be just lasered out plates. If I remember right, this one has bearings in it though.
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I will need the width of the shock eye with the 2 spacers, where the bolt goes through. That is the ID I need to mill that area out to. I'm drawing it up in AutoCAD this morning.
I see XTrock's shock is different than Jens, are they all like that? |
Mine is stock, Jens have a aftermarked Wilbers. You dont need spacers inside.. The top is 35,3mm and the inside of mine is 36,3mm
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Mine is a Wilbers yes. You can actually see where i had do use a grinder to makee room for the beefier Wilbers shock.
So if someone is to make a batch of theese, it would be nice to make'em fit aftermarket shocks aswell. Notice my first pic the metal thats grinded away, just under the hole. Had to do that on both sides. It Shouldn't compromise the stenght. |
Jens did you have to cut on top of this too? Dont you get the correct angle of the shock if the top is like the one i have?
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Didnt cut the top, it fit perfectly like it came. Im actually not sure if would fit with a squared top like yours, but I might be wrong.
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Ok, i will check it out in some days when i change shock.
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