XT600 Engine rebuild questions (crank, bearings, valveseals etc)
 

Hi all,

New here with a XT600Z 3AJ from 89.

I'm currently in the progress of rebuilding the engine and have some general questions:

1) I've seen an excellent topic here from 8 years ago regarding bearings ( this one ) and was wondering if there is any update on this?
Is C3 sufficient for a lot of KMs or is it recommended to use C4?
I'm thinking about replacing all bearings with SKF/FAG ones. I can get C4 SKF for 25euros.

2) If I want to get the main bearing off of the crank, I will need to put it back in the same spot with a gap in between the crank and the bearing. Is this a fixed gap or do I just measure it and put it back approximately? It seems kinda vague to me.

3) I'm also replacing the valve seals. Are aftermarket ones any good? OEM ones will be €50 total...

4) I can also order everything aftermarket from Kedo.de (bearings, valveseals), but there's no info on these items. Are these any good?

Thanks! bier

3: Regarding valve seals, theyre inkluded in the gasgetkit from Kedo, and work fine. Be carefull when you install them.

Really?

In this one?

KEDO - Product Details

edit:

"ventilshaftdichting" on the catalog, I guess that's it :). You just saved me 12 euros
I wish they would put more info on the products though, the kedo bearings don't have any info.
edit: just got word from kedo: the bearing they sell is a C3 bearing... makes me think, I guess C3 is fine too?

You can see the valveseals in the middle of the gasgetkit =)

I haven bought enginebearings for mine yet, but I would trust Kedo to provide the right parts.

Well apparently they are C3 bearings. I can get those for very cheap.
I wonder why yamaha is using C4. I think these still have play when under operating temperature, while C3 do not. (or not as much).

I can't really find any decisive info. It's too bad the yamaha ones are so expensive.

There is some instances where the wrong spec bearing will cause vibrations under certain rpms and may be more likely to have the balls skid in the races rather than roll smoothly (also a cause of vibration) . I do wonder why it would be the Yamaha had the special spec , but C4 is a (looser) tolerance than C3, IIRC ,Honda aircooled motors have the same spec.

Hm.. what about the bearings from the transmission that have oil seal and/or snap ring groove? It would be much easier and cheaper to order 4x 6305 and 2x 6004 regular. Not sure what the snap ring groove is even used for? (and the oil seal for that matter, since it's a blind bearing anyway?)

Buy original, its not like you change these bearing every 2 year? Make it like brand new when you first do the job!

Fair point but if I want to replace all 8 OEM it'll be 150-300 euros for sure. That's too much for just the bearings, the project will become too expensive.

I can't remember offhand which bearings go where and such but there is one spot the the seal in the bearing directs oil through the shaft and out the cross holes rather than straight though and around the bearing . could be thinking of another motor , I don't remember .I do remember Honda has a cam bearing similar that requires the oil seal so all the oil has to go into the cam to oil the rockers , if it was just a standard bearing, parts would get starved of oil.

Doubleyoupee, to help decide if C3 bearings are OK to use in place of the C4 larger clearance bearings, you could ask XT/TT600 guru David Lambeth.
Welcome - David Lambeth 00 44 (0)1205 871945

Bob

Thing is depending how tight the bearing is pressed on the crank , it'll tighten up the inner clearances , then add the high heat which also tightens the clearance is possible to be a bit too tight , probably why the C4 was spec'd in the first place , I guarantee if the less expensive/common bearing was known to be fine , they would have used them from the factory rather than some special high dollar versions . Modern bearings are probably better quality than back in the '80's, so may be fine then .

I would say nothing is better quality these days than the 80s, original parts last 20-30 years no problem. But new parts different brands known for quality earlier dont last more than some years, rubber specially. Car parts specially, and all other things from China are made for changing often, i would say you get what you pay for it. It seem expensive at the time, but its worth every penny if it last. And i have to pay twice the price you see!

I understand, but in my opinion there's a difference between "things from china" and SKF or FAG bearings from Europe, wouldn't you say?
To be honest I wouldn't know but I can imagine that bearings from the 21st century from a well known company like SKF are actually good if not better.
Not to mention I can order bearings from NTN as well - which is what Yamaha uses from factory (along with Koyo).

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Anyway I sent a message to David Lambeth. Not sure if he'll reply, but we'll see :)

Yes i was talking in general now, SKF/FAG have quality and used from many frabricators. So if you find match with same spec use it.

Ya name brands are what I'm referring to . Things made by Chinese or those outsourced I couldn't say are better . The technology in manufacturing the races and especially ball bearings is what better . The balls are a more true sphere and hold less piece to piece variances not to mention metallurgy more refined . I wouldn't even consider a Chinese bearing for the crank , even if it had the correct class spec .

In reality the C3's may run better/smoother/quieter , they usually do in many situations , but also may not in this spot . I would think the reasons I said are likely why they went with the looser ones . I know at work it doesn't take much to make a bearing run hard , just .0003" extra press can make one drag and feel rough .

So I spoke to David, I could actually call him directly! Very nice of him.

So conclusion:
- C3 bearings are fine, aftermarket good quality ones too, he recommends koyo
- The bearing on the crank is actually a floating bearing! When the crank heats up, the bearing can move. Therefore it doesn't really matter where the bearings sits. It's the position the bearing was in the last time the engine cooled down. The position of the timing/chain gear is more important - and this one is fixed. It's important to measure where it sits before replacing the bearing.

- The output transmission bearing on the left side is a special bearing, and might need to be yamaha OEM.

- He recommends 10W50 over 10w40

- The 3aj gearbox gears / design is still crap. He said it's pretty much a waste of money to rebuild the entire engine without replacing the gears/transmission for aftermarket/newer parts, since the pitting (and as a result lose chunks) will wear the engine again anyway.

Anyway there was another thing regarding this engine, and that is the fact that there's 0.9mm sideways clearance on the big-end. (manual says 0.35-0.65mm). Vertical play is 0, so that's good.
Also, the crank width itself it 75.25mm instead of 74.95-75.00.

My idea was to have it re-pressed -0.30mm so both are within clearance again. However I just came back from the shop and it might be 90euros and he won't have time until 2 weeks.
With the above and the gearing thing, I'm now thinking about just leaving everything as it is (I bought this bike non-running) and see what's what. (with thicker 50 oil)
Will save me lots of euros.....
I'm not sure what the end-goal here is that's the problem. If I want to travel long distances on it in the future it might be worth it.
:wacko:

Yeah, SKF and many others have factories in China.

So did some better inspection on my gears. The output shaft looks fine visually, no pitting to be seen with naked eye.
The input shaft has some pitting on the 4th and 5th gears, on some of the teeth (i'd say on 1/4 of the teeth). These are the worst ones. 3rd gear has slight dents on 2 teeth also seen on the photo.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o6gowyc09o...5.24.jpg?raw=1

Direct link so it doesn't turn sideways: https://www.dropbox.com/s/o6gowyc09o...5.24.jpg?raw=1

Most of the other cogs on the 5th gear look fine, like the one behind the 3 pitted cogs. Looks like I got the older 3AJ gears with 19 teeth 5th gear.

Is it even worth it doing anything on this engine if I put this back into the engine? How long before this starts giving trouble? Does this gearbox still have some KMs in it without spraying chunks of metal all around the engine?

I'm assuming people replace them with XT600E gears or something? I looked at the input shaft and it seems the gears are part of the shaft so I'm guessing they need to be pulled/pressed...? Do later 3TB+ gears just swap on?

Those gears could last 5k ,8k ,12k . no way to say exactly till they start being real noisy and eventually a tooth breaks . You can only use the older gears , the E start's are thicker , though one or 2 have turned them thinner to put in the older cases , a lot of work . Other option is to find low mileage used ones that haven't started pitting or buy new , which unless the bike is in mint shape it not worth the cost IMO.


.

Mine IS the E-starter by the way. New 3AJ 4th and 5th input gear is 2x80 euros. + need to be pressed on.
What about 3TB/4PT gears. They are 21 teeth 5th gear I think but do they swap in the 3AJ e-start engine?

The whole point of replacing all bearings + doing the crank + new gears is to make the engine is 'mint' condition. The barrel has been honed + new cylinder 10000KM's ago.

The alternative is to leave everything as is - old bearings, these gears and 0.9mm horizontal play on the big end. I don't want to do any of these if I'm not doing the others as well.

I guess what I'm used to is 3TB's are our e-starts , we never got a 3AJ , but it's the same as our kicker models , motor wise at least .So even though your is e-start it's still the old style and the 3TB gears won't fit as far as I remember . I rebuild 2 3tb's , one with a trashed tranny and I don't think any of the gears fit because I had several old trannie sets but still had to buy new gears for it.

Do you have a fine spline output shaft for the front drive sprocket or the course 6 spline output shaft ? That'll tell me which tranny those e-start 3AJ's used for sure, I know not all had the starter, just kick only.

As far as gearing changes , I liked the older ratios better , my 3tb has too high 1st to get a decent 60-65mph cruising rpm . I think you can put the 3TB clutch gear and primary gear on the 3AJ to get a little bit closer . It may require the input shaft changed so the clutch fits , been a few years since thinking about that and which parts do actually fit.

Quick question,

I got the full gasket set from KEDO and I'm installing the valve seals.
I noticed that one of the valve seals has an extra rubber seal/insert in off it. There other 3 were in the bag and not inside the valve seals.
With the seal in, it doesn't fit on the valve guide at all, and the original seal I have don't have it it either.

What are these seals for? The gasket set is only for 600. Is it for the old type head or something? Thanks

pic:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4ngz9pm8e...4.11.jpg?raw=1

XT 600 engine rebuild
 

Hi Doubleyoupee,

You may find some useful info at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-34l-tips-5538

Cheers,
p

A lof of info there.
The conclusion is to buy 4TP gears? but they are wider?
Do they swap in 1:1 ? Or do you have to make modifications?

The best (cheapest) way for me would be only replace 5th gear on the input shaft, since the gear on the output has no visual pitting at all.

How hard is it to get the gears off of the input shaft? Can it be done with a simple bearing-pulled and heatgun?

Wear on 5th gear
 

Found this old post of what i did. You are welcome to ask questions if you need.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...solution-80123

That modification has done 10867 km and has been completely successful.

This was about making 5th gear last. As you will see, it became about how to stop 5th gear destroying the engine.

The gears are wider. That is why they last. You will have to grind both original 2nd gears to accommodate the 3yf gears. (There is no detriment to 2nd gear, only material is taken at centre boss of small gear pressed on shaft, and a lick off the big 2nd gear)

You will need a small press. No heat please. No change to 3yf gears, fit straight in with mod to 2nd gears.

I believe the factory changed the main engine housing to fit wider gears.

Quote: "The best (cheapest) way for me would be only replace 5th gear on the input shaft, since the gear on the output has no visual pitting at all."

'Best' and 'cheapest' are not words can put together any place i know of :)

Depends what you need from the bike.

Cheers,
p

Thanks,

Unfortunately grinding things off the gears is no option for me. Too much for this project.
I wish there was just a new replacement gear that is made from a stronger material.
Too bad the kedo gears are so expensive, I'm not paying 250 euros for 2 gears....
Maybe i'll get new factory 3aj gears.. or just leave it like this..(the gears aren't THAT bad) and then just oil changes and riding carefully in 5th gear :)

Here's a NOS 4th driven gear(if it's the side needed), the same as the XT's , 34l and 3AJ should be , 1983-89 YAMAHA XT TT SRX 600 TT600 XT600 4TH GEAR WHEEL NOS OEM P/N 55U-17241-00

So after a long time I finally had time to bring the crank over to the local shop.
They pressed it but unfortunately it skipped 0.6mm in 1 go instead of 0.3mm. So now the big-end play is 0.30mm (should be 0.35mm-0.65mm) and the crank width is 74.70mm (should be 74.95-75.25mm).

They work on a lot of old engines, but mostly cars. They said 0.3mm is perfectly fine, and the 74.65mm is also fine since it has regular roller-bearings on the side.

Any thoughts? Should I go back? :huh:

That's .002" less but still .0118" clearance (SAE since I'm used to it) , it'll be ok .




.

Thanks. 10W40 fine with the above in mind?

Yup .



.

I just found out that in a XT600Z service information it clearly states 0.25-0.75mm big-end clearance, while in the XT600 EAC 1990 service manual it states 0.35-0.65mm. I thought the 600 engine core (crank, piston etc.) was pretty much identical for all models. Does someone have any idea?

+1, you should be fine
do a dry mount of the crank in cases, button them up and see if it turns freely to be sure

Wel unfortunately it's not.
I just found out the big-end pin is now touching the bearing:

https://i.imgur.com/025zrDM.jpg

My understanding is that the bearing should be placed all the way against the crankshaft, although there will be some clearance because of a small shoulder that prevents the inner race of the bearing from going any further. Correct?

Either way, it's now rubbing against the pin as you can see in the picture... so I brought it back to be adjusted.. if possible:rolleyes2: (i've already removed the timing gear).

havent changed a left bearing in a while and too many other motors open to remeber, but a crank that i have here has a good 2.4 distance between pin and bearing
im afraid there should be a washer between bearing and crank, the parts list wil not show it because its one assy
no way a few tenths mistake would cancel a 2.4mm gap..

had a look in better light, not sure it's a washer. it might be that the bearing should have no radius so it stops at the shoulder sharp. maybe you mounted a non original bearing that has a radius? then it would sit more inwards...

I already removed the bearing and there is no washer. There is a small shoulder that the inner race of the bearing sits against. That's why there's a gap between the crank and bearing.
There's still a gap for me, but not at the pin. The pin touches the bearing directly. I think it's the original bearing (it's a Koyo).

Either way, it wasn't touching the bearing before. It's because the crank was pressed 0.6mm inwards, so the pin protrudes more and touches the bearing now.

If service manual states 0.35-0.65mm i would for sure use it in the correct value and not hope its ok outside.. But what i find strange here is the shop you had to do this, they must have seen that the bearing touched?They maybe didnt have all parts?

Well actually, the XT600Z 3AJ "service information" says 0.25-0.75mm. That's what confuses me. I've never seen that mentioned anywhere else.

https://i.imgur.com/hBbpQNT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/G2tNjpM.jpg

88. Crank 1
34K-W1141-00-00


93. Crank 1
1VJ-W1141-00-00


I dont know it they had some difference spec. Anyway the bearing is not possible to move now and use again, start all over and get the gap you had before dismantle.

even if it's 0.6 off, with a 2.4mm measured gap between pin and bearing race they shouldnt touch... it might well be that what defines the bearing position is the gear wheel and you should press the last few mm using the gear wheel as a driver so it stops at the step in diameters in the shaft. what im triyng to say is in other words that the bearing should not go all the way till the shoulder.

was there a gap between the gear wheel and bearing before you took them off?

What are you basing this on? Where did you get 2.4mm from? There was definitely no 2.4mm gap before. More like 0.5-1mm.

I can move the bearing axially with two screwdrivers- it's very loose on the axle. I don't know what position the bearing could be other than all the way seated on the shoulder - otherwise it will just move anyway.

Before I took them off, there was no gap between the timing gear and bearing, and around 0.5-1mm beween crank and bearing:

https://i.imgur.com/wFHVgeI.jpg

You can see the shoulder here:

https://i.imgur.com/as6rFc3.jpg

This was before. Now it's touching the pin every so slightly because it moved 0.6mm

Ok i maybe missunderstood what you wrote, but when its pressed on i would think it couldnt be moved by hand.

The timing gear is pressed on. The bearing I can simply tap all the way down using no effort, just some light taps. But as you can see on the last picture - it can't go any further because there's a tapered shoulder that hits the bearing's inner race. Unfortunately now, the big end pin hits the bearing first. Just.

Ok so it seatet with expansion heat, then if you use the 0,5 gap its ok?

No, the bearing was cold. There is hardly any interference fit.
I'm just trying to explain why I returned the crank. Unless someone has some official info about clearances/timing gear position I'm quite sure the bearing must sit all the way on the shoulder with its inner race.

I understand bearing is cold, if these are floating bearings wouldnt they be seatet when engine heats up rather than floating when heat like you write before?Just thinking both metal expands wouldnt give more float than what you have. But anyway get the specs correct and good luck:thumbup1:

the 2.4mm is the reading i get when i measure the gap in the crank i have.
look at the pic i posted again, these are feeler gauges of a total 2.4mm sliding between pin and bearing.

Hope i am not upsetting you when i'm trying to help....

Ah okay, I couldn't see it was 2.4mm on the picture.
Definitely not upsetting me.bier I'm just confused. Looks like your timing gear is way higher than mine (or your bearing is way thinner), because I don't have any clearance between the bearing & timing gear either, but almost 1.5mm-2mm less clearance between crank & bearing.

Do you still have the crank?

Could you take a measurement like this?
https://i.imgur.com/YxWXfjh.jpg

It's from the back of the teeth to the start of the cutout. A bit weird I know but it's easy to measure and should be constant. Thanks

first thing wrong is that bearing should be an interference fit on shaft, not sliding fit
2nd, now that i see, im confident that the bearing should go against the gear, not the shoulder. see pic and pretty big gap.

so measure your shaft, with micrometer, it should be above 35.00,



here are some more dims with a solid reference of the step in shaft

Looks to me like this is pressed back with not same distance, what did you measure before dismantle?Its for shure not the 0,05 that makes the problem here.

Those are not my pictures but turboguzzi's.. Mine is not yet pressed back.

Hm.. I think once the engine gets to operating temperature the interference fit disappears. This is probably why the bearing ends up in a slightly different spot every time. This is why I'm worried the bearing could touch my big-end pin since it can physically move there and touch it.

Unfortunately I've already removed the timing gear now so cannot check those measurements. This is the only one I have. If you could try the same measurement as me that would be grand :innocent:

The old bearing, was it the same way with possible to move with fingers?

Well, to clarify I used two screwdrivers to lift it from the crankshaft axle, it wasn't loose but not very stuck either. Nu puller required. There is an interference fit (as in it won't fall off by itself) but not much. I could press it back very easily with light taps with a screwdriver + small hammer.

I haven't put the new one on yet, crank is at the shop.

IMHO bearing should be a interference (read tight) fit, otherwise even when you are dropping the crank back in the cases it will get pushed against the shoulder and touch the pin again.

Well, I just picked up the crank. Now the big-end clearance is +-0.50mm and the width is +- 74.90mm. Sounds spot on to me.

Unfortunately, the pin still protrudes a little bit. It's 0.2mm less than before but the crank still touches the bearing if I push the bearing all the way down onto the shoulder.

I decided to make a quick video so you can see how easy the bearing comes off the axle:

Video/GIF

Surely setting the bearing to any position on the axle will not matter since with so little interference fit it will just move anyway. Especially with warm engine.

Not sure what to do now.

What happend to the bearing in the end of video, strange angle suddenly? I still dont understand what you mean happens when engine is hot, why do you think bearing is moving more then? Did you pull timing gear or shop?

The axle is thinner there.. so the bearing can tilt. I think it can move because at higher temperature the interference fit will be even less.
No I pulled it myself.

Anyway you can see here both bearing and axle have a chamfer, and therefore the bearing can go all the way down until the inner race meets the shoulder:

https://i.imgur.com/lEH27N6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oYfhTjH.jpg

I'm quite sure the bearing should be all the way on the shoulder, or at least be able to go all the way

Did you only use a normal 2 or 3 arm puller, was it hard pulling out? Iam thinking if its easy to damage gear. The original bearing was 100% like the new one? Iam still thinking bearing will get more stuck when heating up due to the expansion of metal.

Neither, I used a bearing puller like this:

https://i.imgur.com/WTpk5KQ.jpg

It was quite stuck. I heated it up using a heater air gun (paint stripper). At first I was unsuccessful because I didn't heat the bottom part of the gear (puller was in the way). After that it came off relatively easily.
There's no damage on the gear as far as I can see. It appears to be a very hard material. Harder than my puller (It left dents)

As for the heat. No, both axle and bearing will heat up, but the bearing is a larger diameter so will expand (slightly) more. The diameter of the bearing gets larger not smaller when the metal heats up.

Ok i see, yes metal will get larger and then get more stuck i would think. Was the original bearing bad condition and how many km? I would think a bearing like this would last 150k km at least. Measure and compare the original vs the new, maybe a little difference.

@turboguzzi

Also to test my theory I'm quite sure you can tap your bearing down all the way on the shoulder with a screwdriver + small hammer

No. Otherwise nobody would heat something to remove it. The bearing does get larger, that's why the diameter will increase and it will be more loose. The old bearing was okay, but i'm replacing all bearings just because I can. Hobby project :)

Normally you heat one of the metals and cool down the other for them to release and heat makes seized metal easier come apart. I would think its the cooling process that makes metal let go of each other, to different metals shrink different.

not in my case, it doesnt move at alll.
i remember using the puller also for the bearing.
sure, not as hard as the gear but was a pretty solid fit. will check today with a micrometer the exact shaft dia, you might be undersize...



remember that unless you have a precise way to put the gear back indexed somehow, you will need to slot your cam sprocket to arrive to the right cam timing.

Interesting..
However you can see this guy here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HACEfo_gKc&t=3m10s
His is going off exactly as mine - very easy.

I'm not worried about putting the timing gear on. I have enough measurements to put it back exactly where it was. I'm just wondering about the bearing placement. But if I look at everything, to me it's most logical that the bearing sites on the shoulder with the inner race by default.

Stupid thing is that it's not touching the pin anymore if I put the crank upright (in normal position). It's literally the flex from the C3 bearing that is causing it to touch the pin now - it's that close. An extra 0.05mm would fix it. Would put the big-end clearance at 0.60m, which was my initial request.

I'm thinking of going to another shop tomorrow. I don't trust this one anymore.

Seems like there is alot different measurements here, the video says 1mm, Turbo 2,4mm?

Yes. This is why I believe the bearing is a floating bearing. It can move slightly when the engine warms up. This is also what David Lambeth told me (XT600 guru) and it explains why you will find the bearing in a different spot for all cranks. Only the timing gear is constant.

However I still think it should be able to travel all the way to the crank, and that this is the default position. Clymer manual apparently also states this, but I don't have it (yet).

Ok, clymer says conecting rod to crankshaft side clearence 0,25-0,75mm. the big end side clearence 0,25-0,65 how to know what they talk about? Is it really this clearence between bearing? I cant find anything that confirm it. I quess the bearing circle must make the metal only expand out from center(the easiest way to expand in a ring) and the shaft is not expanding much thats why it can release in heat?There is alot of info in clymer about balancing the crankshaft

I have 4 cranks but just 1 is an e-start and that's unfortunately in a motor that's still together but I popped the flywheel off 2 of the others since the cases were split anyways and both of them had loose bearings on the crank(bearings still feel nice and tight with very little "wobble") and I could fit a .026"/.660mm shim between the bearing and gear with the bearing pushed against the shoulder .

With the bearings against the shoulder they had roughly .003-.005" clearance to the conrod pin (which were both basically flush with the web , not sticking out . If not for your pin sticking out that little extra that the crank is pressed together wouldn't hurt anything , but it sounds like it's pressed more than the .6mm if the pin is sticking out like it is .

btw , measuring from the key slot is a poor place to go by and compare to any others , I doubt they're extremely accurate in placement . To the end of the taper is where I'd go by with a debth mic but before anything was pressed apart. Now it's a complete guess really . If they have the web pressed .6mm too far , where did that come from ? conrod side clearance ?

.

.

It's hard to measure the clearance between the conrod pin and the bearing, since if you put the clearance tool in, you push the bearing outer edge away. The bearings have a lot of clearance on them (C3/C4 bearing).
Mine has around 0.05mm/0.002" clearance but it's so little that if I tilt the crank sideways, it does touch the pin (because of the flex in C3/C4 bearing).

So i've decided to ship the crank to a known (XT) specialist and have it done properly. I don't think it's properly aligned now either.

I know the measurement I did isn't the best, but I thought it would be easiest to reproduce. I have this one as well which should be more accurate, but it's on an angle:

https://i.imgur.com/ag24wR1.jpg

Finally, yes, it had 0.9mm big end side clearance. Crank was 75.25mm wide too. How? No idea.

Anyway if anyone has the clymer manual and could share it or at least the pages regarding crankbearing/timing gear that would be great bier

I would say, dont start messing with this job unless your bearing is shot for sure. Most of us will problably get this back togheter again, but there is alot of small things on the way that can lead to failure after riding for some time. A cheap fix with a bearing for 25dollars ending up with shop visit for hundreds or broken engine..

What? The bearing is already removed. At this point it doesn't matter if I put the old or new bearing back on. Please read, this topic is getting really cluttered with corrections and unrelated discussions like this

This was a suggestion to others who maybe thinking of doing this, and i cant find anything here that is unrelated or cluttered. If you cant handle that people here want info other than helping you its your problem, i quess biggest problem is that i wouldnt copy my 450 pages clymer book for you!As a new member you should be happy for all help you get, end of story from me!

You mean info like heating a bearing/gear will cause it to get more stuck?
Misreading several posts doesn't really make things easier in this thread either.

And I never asked for your entire 450 page copy. One page would be enough - and if you actually cared about providing info like you said, that wouldn't have been such a problem.

Well you are for sure no expert on how steel is expanding with heat and with discussing things like this we maybe learn something, what you think would happend if the steel in shaft expand more than bearing? Yes they would get stuck in heat, like i told you its best cooling down one of the metals for them to release from eachother. I have no info about the diffferent steel made and how they are possible operating in heat if you do please explain so we all can learn.

And you making this thread doesnt mean you decides whats beeing discussed here other than the info you need, some of the most importan thing in forums is that everyone can come with info and we find out togheter whats correct. Like i told you its not only one page about this subject lower end and its best you buy manual so you have all info to get this correct. There is special tools needed too!

for once im with xtrock :)
this is life in forums, you post a question, you can not control who and what people answer and at the very least you can say thank you for trying, even if thats not the exact info you were looking for,

Are you saying I didn't try?

I answered multiple of his posts even though the answer was already given before, or he simply misread.

I answered him and explained that the radius of a gear expands with heat but he doesn't believe me and says i'm wrong.

Then, when I ask him for some actual valuable info (1-2 pages from a manual) he refuses.