XT cylinder head - exhaust flanges corroded in..
 

Hi..can anyone help me with my problem please?

I have an '03 XT which I've stripped to rebuild as my next travel bike.. I have the engine out but the exhaust flanges have corroded in and snapped off the rest of the headers as I removed them.

They are properly corroded in and the extreme heat has left then in a sorry state...

Any ideas how to get them out? I don't want heat them up too much as I fear warping the whole alloy head..I've tried using cutting discs on a dremmel, grinders, drifts... but no joy and it's starting to look messy :)

Short of setting the head up on a mill and I'm stuck for ideas.. any help gratefully received.

Failing that.. does anyone know of a 4PT head with or without valves and camshaft going for sale? Am I right in thinking any head from 2KF is a match??

Thanks.

Seized items; Wurth make an excellent product, Rost-off. Apply and leave to soak.
Then; mass and shock are your next good friends. Mass because there is no shock when striking a light item.
Back-up the item containing seized part using appropriate mass like lead weight, sand or similar to avoid damage, and strike seized part with pin punch or similar.
Weight of hammer, size/shape of punch, level of enthusiasm of striker subject to experience.
The idea is to break the bond between the two surfaces.
Loosens almost anything.
Heat, depending on materials, should be last resort.
p

It's a common XT600E problem.

Tiny headers made of steel in an alloy head..

I had exactly the same situation.

Now, how much of the header is left in the head ???

Is there enough to weld a nut onto ?? That's pretty much the only way they're coming out if they're REALLY rusted in there. The weld will get it stinking hot and you can usually work them out.

If not then you're best off giving the head to a workshop who can can drill out the old studs and put some proper threaded inserts in for you.

Unless you have the equipment to do that yourself.

And that equipment ISN'T a 9V Cordless drill and some cheap drill bits either :)

If I am reading the OP right, he isn't struggling with the studs. He is struggling with the thick ends of the header that the clamps fit on. It sounds like the headers broke and left those in.

Either way I think it is machine shop time if this head is to survive. It is worth getting a price at least.

Sorry, I can't help with the questions about another head.

Thanks for the advice. It is the very ends of the pipes that have corroded off and left the thick tapered flange ends in the exhaust holes in the head.
I can get to a milling machine but it's a long time since I used one... so my next issue is setting up the head at the correct angle to remove the steel but not touch the alloy.. tricky because of the taper I suspect..

Should it come to buying a replacement head does any head from 2KF model onwards fit? It looks like it from all the ones I've seen online. Seems there is an extra stud atone end of the camchain cavity...?! Am I right with this??

Thanks again for the assistance.. I'll keep plugging away :)

LBR

Well, you do know how how that sh*t goes when the engine is hot right!?

In my professional opinion welding anything that close to the inside of the engine you'll get spatter or even some rust inside the engine whether you like it or not. So unless you got a few cm outside the engine don't weld anything in there!


Vando ;)

Hi

I had the same trouble as you and after struggling with the remnants of the headers and exhaust studs for ages I gave up and gave the head to a mechanic at work. He struggled with the headers but got them out eventually using heat and brute force. He couldn't do anything about the studs though and I had to drill them out and re tap myself. None of this helps you of course, except to say it can be done! so hang in there and good luck!

Bill

If it were me I would either
a) plug the ports & use a die grinder or dremell & grind almost through the pipe/flange at one point from the inside. Then colapse the pipe/flange & remove it.
or b) if you have access to a arc or mig welder, plug the ports & grind the inside of the pipe/flange until shiny/clean bare metal is showing. Then weld a bead around the inside of the pipe/flange & allow to cool. When the weld cools & contracts it will also contract(shrink) the pipe/flange allowing it to be removed. The risk here is if your weld penetrates through the pipe/flange, it might make it harder to remove, so it really depends how thin or rusted the pipes/flanges are & how good at welding you are.
Good luck
Bob

Post a picture of the issue already!!

Surprised Mezo (our resident Aussie) hasn't seen this thread, he's pretty clued up on all mechanical things XT.

For what it's worth, I have heard of this same problem many many times in the past. :thumbdown:

I am with Bobmech's suggestion a). If you can grind or mill a slot in the flange I think you could use a big screwdriver to collapse it in on itself.

As long as it doesn't collapse inside the engine block! lol :P

Mezo has probably seen the post already, or he's been away for a few days..
He always has a trick up his sleeve! :)

I'll sort the whole thing out for you for £100. Flanges removed, studs out and new ones fitted..

And if I can't, no fee !!!

However, Why not have a go yourself first.... it will be a learning experience.

Heads are rare and expensive and a second hand one could be in worse shape than yours.

It might already be beyond reasonable repair. Please post some pictures up of the head from multiple perspectives.

Ted

www.touringted.com

I'll try to post some pics this evening... Thanks for all the help..

Were waiting ;)

How do you upload pics on here? It says enter a URL??? My pics on my computer not online....

You need to host them on the web. Use websites like photobucket etc. Once uploaded, right click the photo and get the URL address. Copy and paste this into the hubb dialogue box.

Comprende ?

Sent from my HUAWEI U8815 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

How's that?
 

http://s798.photobucket.com/user/nic...51823.jpg.html

2013-07-05151833.jpg Photo by nickherridge | Photobucket

2013-07-05151839.jpg Photo by nickherridge | Photobucket

2013-07-05151843.jpg Photo by nickherridge | Photobucket

Damn this look nasty! Now iam even more glad i bought stainless steel pipes. Dremel is the key word here, alot of different grinding and cutting and it will be good. In the end when you have come down to the last parts of steel you can heat up with heat pistol and use alot of rust remover, then try to tap on the steel it maybe come of. Good luck.

Damn.... Thats sucks :thumbdown:

Can you get a slide hammer to grab with some sort of fingers to jar them out?

Wow. Not good.

How about this:

Soak in rust remover for a few days.

Wedge a small screwdriver (using a small hammer , don’t go crazy) between the steel and aluminum to break the bound. That should also help to get the rust remover a little deeper the next time.

Repeat.

http://static6.depositphotos.com/108...crewdriver.jpg

Hi
looking at the pics, it looks like you are only trying to remove the pipes.
Might be a silly question, but you do realise that the remaining thick steel band is part of the headers(and is welded to the header pipe on the cylinder head side) and must be removed.
Bob

Bobmech: you're totally correct! I also missed that! :o

lowbudgetrider: have someone grind away some rust from the outside pipe and make a weld on there, give it a couple of taps with a hammer and just pull that thing out there!

This is how the cylinder head should look like without those headers in there:

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Yamaha-XT-600...6UNw~~0_12.JPG

Wow.....

That's terrible. Where was the bike stored ? At the bottom of a canal ? :blushing:


Forget a tiny screw driver.. It will just snap and make a mess.

You need a flat chizzle and a blow torch now.


Those studs are also rotten but at least they're protruding. They also need a lot of heat on them and some nuts welded on top of them.

Are you shitting me? That whole ring protruding from the head had to come off? I thought that was part of the head? Not the header..!?!? Assumption truly is the mother of all f**k ups, Bobmech.. Thanks so much for your help!! I have fresh hope!
As for cleaning it up I've been experimenting with a home made sodablaster... any thoughts??
Thanks for all the help everyone...

The head is alloy so if you rub the ring part with a file you will soon tell if the metal is alloy or steel.

I'm thinking oxy torch, get the steel red hot and let it cool, repeat a couple of times and see if it comes loose.

If it all comes out like crap you can bore it out a little and turn up some collars out of 6061 and press them in to get the original bore size for the pipes.

Good luck, Dave

Did you get any luck fixing problem? When i look at pictures ian thinking this must be a reduced header, 34HK? What you have drilled into is not on a normal 600.

The OEM manual says use a blow torch and WD40.

As Ted says above, a cold chistle is a good idea too (I'm Touring Ted's greatest follower). :eek3:

I think that most if not all bikes will need this treatment not just those that haven't been looked after. Over time they become almost impossible to budge using conventional spanners. :(

Mine still wear OEM exhausts (you know the ones - those huge black heavy things). They are very quiet though. When I last tried to loosen the manifolds they were impossible to move in any direction. Mine are minters and spend winters tucked up in my garage covered in WD40 and GT85 with a dust cover.