XT 600 rear wheel problem
 

Hey All
1985 XT 600 kick start
I've put about 700 miles on bike without a problem. All 3 bearing sets in rear have 700 miles on them.
This last weekend I tighten chain 1 notch both sides (possible slightly further 1 side). Rear was tightened back up. Seemed fine. Drove a few minutes felt fine. Took on highway and felt vibration in foot pegs when I got up to speed. Got off next exit, slowed almost to stop and could smell the rear hub. Then back hub locks up and won't move. Pressed brake then released, back it up a bit then I was able to roll to side. After it cooled i loosed chain and slowly made way back home.
Attaching these pictures
#1, 2, 3 shows bearing on sprocket side half out and where the sprocket case seemed to be grinding into wheel hub.
#4 shows the lip on hub brake side ripped away
#5 shows melted casing on drum panel
#6 shows metal deposits from cast casting

The bearing on drum side is shot (very knotchy) other 2 bearings seem fine.
I did not torque rear axle but it was tight.
chain could of been very slightly off line, but no more then 1 notch difference.

Any advice on what you think happened would be great. Besides the lip being grounded off the wheel seems to be okay when I but another drum insert in it.
The other 2 bearings seem to not of suffered any damage but should i replace?
Thanks
Greg

Picture #4

It was seated properly. What ever happened pushed the bearing outward

Too much heat, bearing lock up and moving on the axle. If i understand correct it wasnt lined up correct and pressure was on bearing, replace them and back on the road.

?
 

hi in the first 2 pictures with a bearing sticking out of the hub is that the hub bearing moved or the sprocket carrier bearing which has come out of the sprocket carrier, if so should there not be a spacer between the sprocket carrier and hub bearings steve

Yamaha Xt600n Dual Purpose 1984/1985 Rear Wheel - schematic partsfiche
hi have a look at this item 15 if this was left out when you tightened up the wheel it would have pulled the bearings over to the sprocket side steve

Wow, something is fubar, thats for sure.

How tight was the chain? Being 1 click of shouldn't do that.

It could be a lot of stuff, perhaps the bearings was damaged when you installed them, together with a tight chain, it could mean disaster.

The sprocket carrier bearing in one of my rear wheels had a little play in it, not the bearing itself, but the space between the bearing and the hub. I fitted a strip of 0.02mm metal, made especially to take up that kind of play.

Something like that could be ruining youre bearings aswell.

Hope you sort it out.

heres a couple of pics showing a 1vj sprocket carrier you can see the spacer, if this is missing it will pull the bearings when you tighten the wheel spindle, hope this helps steve

Thanks all for responses
Is there a spacer between where sprocket bearing and hub bearing line up? I can feel a distance between maybe 6-8mm 1/4-3/8in.
Steve> I think this is the 15 on the schematic? But in the picture it looks like part #15 would be to long to fit in between. I'll check to get a measurement on it.

The rear 3 bearing sets were installed 700 miles ago with no problems. Perhaps there was a problem I just couldn't feel. Tightening up the chain set it off as what ever i did (wheel was left on bike) messed it up.
Not having a spacer in the loop makes sense.
Photo#7 shows the drum side cut into
photo#8 shows damage to hub from brake

Yeah this make sense if you missed out some spacer, good you stopped bike before some accident happend!!

Thanks Steve and all
Ok found what seems to be the problem.
The bearings were replaced in hub and sprocket carrier. The sprocket carrier bearing has 2 problems.
1st is it's a wider diameter
2nd it has no spacer. It seems the stock bearing had a built in spacer in the design? The stock bearing is deeper so as there is no distance between the bearings.
Here is the bearings from ebay> 1984 89 Yamaha XT600 Wheel Bearing Kit Rear | eBay

The sprocket carrier bearing has (all balls replacement) a wider diameter as well, trying to see how that could work:confused1:

hi greg have a look at these pics, spacer ,measured inside sprocket carrier so approx. 17mm id ,24mm od ,19mmm? od to fit inside bearing and 35mm?long, hope this helps steve

So it looks like spacer goes inside the bearing? confused on this.
The stock set up that I have on another carrier would work correctly. I don't want to knock that bearing out to get a better look. But what it shows is a smaller diameter and a deeper race. I can't see for sure if there is a spacer in there or if it is all part of the bearing. looks to be 1 unit.
I ordered the set All Balls rear kit last night as i'm not going to feel right about not changing all (3) rear bearings. I assume now that I'll receive the larger sprocket carrier bearing again :thumbdown:.

Seems if I go back to stock i should be good. But what I'm confused about is: do I have a spacer in the stock set up or not.
It seems clear I am missing spacer in the damaged hub assembly. The bearing that is half out in previous photos is out same distance as would be with spacer.
Also seems this part (spacer) is not available anymore. Anyone know an alternate?
Thanks!!!
greg

hi greg as you are going to replace all the bearings (right choice) try this, tap the wheel bearing back in till it bottoms and is flush with its housing and knock the sprocket carrier bearing out ,then place the carrier with its cush rubbers on the wheel ,you should then be able to see the distance between the bearing face and the sprocket carrier housing bottom, maybe around 20mm?, this is the distance the spacer makes up,when correct the spindle tightens up between wheel bearing inner race then the wheel bearing spacer then the other wheel bearing inner race then the sprocket carrier spacer and then the sprocket carrier bearing inner race ,as you probably know when putting new bearings in only tap on the side of the bearing in contact with its housing or shaft ,in this case the outer race, also putting the bearings in the freezer for a while to make them contract (get smaller ) makes tapping in easier steve