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XT 600 e Kick Start
:eek3: Hi anyone got any info on fitting a Kick start to the XT, 1998 model. Cheers
Is it a good idea or an unessasary expense. |
kickstart
Hi,
My tuppenceworth, I got a kickstart fitted to a 2001 XT600e by Dave Lambeth. Very expensive and never had to use it in anger on my trip. Save your cash for traveling, buy a new battery and take a set of improvised jump leads. Hope this helps. |
Cheers
Thanks for that, this site is great for info like yours that could take years to get by word of mouth. I shall save me coppers and go for the new battery and jump lead option.
Stu:clap: |
It's easy to fit the kickstart on the XT600E and it was the first engine work I'd done on my 1990 XT600E.
Check this 1989 XT600 microfiche that I guided myself on... here are the parts I fitted on mine: http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/...600W_-_1989%29 Here on the "Crankcase cover" page you need to get part 28 http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/...600W_-_1989%29 Here on the "Starter" page you need to get all those parts except the for the parts form 27 to 34..... A good thing you can do is search for a kickstart shaft on eBay and get just these parts from the "Starter" page: 9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19 AND get a complete kickstart+boss kick crank....(I think I got my kickstart+boss kick crack from a XJ 650) That setup doesn't include decompressor! but if ya want decompressor, just ask... :thumbup1: Vando |
Decompressor
Hi Vando, Would appreciate if you can post the information on installing the decompressor. Thanks. Cheers, Tom.
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Hi Tom... I prefer the manual decompresser because it is the most simple, easiest and cheapest to put and looks good in my opinion...
so...Question is, manual or automatic? Vando |
Manual Decompressor
Hi Vando, I would prefer the manual decompressor. I'm kinda old fashion still! Thanks. Cheers, Tom.
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Hi tom.....
http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/...600W_-_1989%29 Here on the page of the Cylinder head you have to get the parts 28,29,30,31 and 32. On the page "Camshaft Chain" you need to get the part number 12 or you can make your own cable bracket(holder)... Besides that, you'll have to get a small bicycle-type of lever (the left lever with the bracket) that will fit securely on your handlebar, a cable with those things to put on the end to "close" the cable at the length you want AND one of those bicycle outer cable guides ( which the cable goes in ).... To put in the part number 28 on the cylinder head you can CAREFULLY punch a hole in that small black cap... I MEAN CAREFULLY so nothing falls into the cylinder and just pull the cap off... You can lean the bike to it's side to help avoid anything falling into the cylinder.... DON'T FORGET to clean the hole without the cap or any small particle that fall into the cylinder will almost certainly damage the cylinder sleeve! Vando :thumbup1: |
To put the part number 17 of the Starter page you will have to take the clutch out.....
After you take the clutch springs and that plate out you will see a weird shape nut. Try not to mess around with it... When you take that weird shape nut, you can see the axle is "hallow"(don't know how if it is written like that) and there is a small metal ball in the axle, DO NOT LOSE IT.. Take the clutch plates out but don't loose the order of the because two of them are different and only fit in that specific order! To take the clutch boss out you will need one of those air guns so you can take the lock nut from the inside.... but take a look before taking that nut out because it has a special spacer that helps hold the nut so it won't vibrate loose... it's easy! also, check the workshop manual for the XT600E so you know how tight you'll have to lock the nut back in on reassembling... As for the clutch springs, be careful when you tighten them back on because if you over tighten it, the boss hub might brake ( it happened to me because I didn't have the workshop manual back then)..... Vando :thumbup1: |
Thanks
Hi Vando, thanks for the information. Looks like a pretty big job. May not fit the decompressor if I can kick start it. I am trying to source out the parts now. Thanks. Cheers. Tom.
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Hi tom... The decompresser looks good on the bike and is quite simple to do in my opinion... I don't need the decompresser because I can kick it with no hassle so it would be just something to do in the future because now I'm doing some things on the bike.... :thumbup1:
Vando |
Decompressor
Thanks Vando. I may as well get the parts and if it is not too big a job, I will go ahead with the decompressor when I am at the kickstart installation. Cheers, Tom.
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Im going to bring this one back from the dead.
Ive just acquired an 84 XT600 for parts and i would like to add the kick starter to my 90 XT600E. The engine from the 84 is dead, sat outside for years without a sparkplug. Im going to be pulling my 90's engine apart soon to do the clutch and want to add the kick starter. |
Info for you... The 2001-2005 Yamaha Raptor 660 ATV clutch kit is the same as for the 1990 XT600E.
I actually bought a Tusk clutch kit shipped for my '90 XT600E yesterday for 49.85USD on fleabay! Vando :innocent: |
If the bike is 1998 the clutch arm is probably on the top of the clutch cover, that makes it a much harder job, I've just done my 1999/2000, on the older models you can fit an earlier clutch cover with the shaft hole already machined out behind a rubber plug but the earlier cover won't have the clutch operating arm fitted, you will need to machine the hole out yourself, the boss is cast into the inside and fairly accurate to centre up on a mill, once a small hole is drilled through you can turn the whole casting over and re-center from the outside and finish the shaft bore and oil seal recess.
I have a spare kickshaft and idler gear but no return spring, also a couple of shims are required as well as the guide and stopper plate but they are surprisingly cheap to buy new. I think a manual decompressor would be easy to do on the head with a well shaped piece of 12mm bar and return spring, I'll tell you when I've finished mine. |
Captain....
Yamaha WR400 decompressor is the easiest to put on the handlebar... or... do as I did.. get an ASV F1 shorty that has a small lever for the decompressor ;) Vando :innocent: |
Whats the trick to using a manual lever operated decompressor? I've never used one myself, have a dodgy knee and putting a kicker on a high comp xt600 it's probably a good plan.
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the trick is to get the parts for the job... it's a fairly simple operation...
You need the decompressor valve, spring, O-ring and small screw which I think has a thin copper spacer/gasket and the cable holder... Than you have to lean the bike to the side enough to drill a hole on the black tap that is located on the top of the cylinder head. Pull the tap out and insert the O-ring => valve spring => decompressor valve and finally the small screw on top of the decompressor valve. After that you have to take on of the Allen bolts off the cylinder head and put the cable holder bracket and refit the allen bolt. Depending on the manual decompressor lever you get, grab hold of one of those generic clutch cables and one of those things that has a bolt that you insert the cable through and tighten the bolt so it won't get off the cable LOol sorry.. Here in Portugal we call it "serra-cabos" :rofl: Also, get one of those black bicycle cable guides and cut length you need. Also you will need to make a way for you to tighten or loosen the cable to correct lenght so you can operate the decompressor valve nice and easy.... I used one of those adjusters as we have on the clutch lever with an extra nut to tighten it in the cylinder head cable bracket (one on each side) I'm gonna check the Yamaha Part numbers for you and will post them here.... which I think I've done in another post... AND I'll make a drawing of how I used the "clutch lever adjuster" so you know what I'm talking about... Vando :smartass: (I'm making up for the long time I've been absent from the HUBB sorry lol ) |
Here is all the info you need as for Yamaha oem parts for the kickstart and the manual decompressor
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/yamaha-tech/xt-600-e-kick-start-30064 The clutch adjuster is one of these pieces https://www.bike-design.com/upload/p...1213863673.jpg http://www.cyclepedia.com/wp-content...aintenance.jpg Drawing: http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/5931/82874280.png Bicycle black cable guide: http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3912/clutchcable.jpg WR400 type manual decompressor: http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/8114/051503side1.jpg any questions just ask! Vando :smartass: |
I have all the kickstart bits and the machining done to the clutch cover already, I also have the plug out of the head and a nice bit of 12mm bar (shaft from an old valve re-facer) that fits the hole nicely with the groove machined and the end shaped nicely to tip the rocker arm, it's just actually using a manual decompressor I've never done, I assume it's just to help get to tdc (comp) in the first place and then kick from there without the decompressor, would that be right?
I used to kick my old xt600 over no problem with a broken decomp. cable but that was 15 years ago and before a knee injury. |
Yep - the decompressor releases the compression - so you can push it over TDC, ready for the KICK !!!!
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Well thats the kickstart in and working, had to skim a bit off the boss inside the clutch cover as it went tight when I bolted it up due to lack of end float.
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As other great things in live it is supposed to be tight! lol
If it was loose it would vibrate and in time could make damage . also, did you put the special shim part# 5Y1-15645-00-00 which is listed as SHIM, KICK SHAFT? It is very important to not forget this part! It fits on the inside of the engine cover where the kick shaft goes through the cover! Vando :innocent: |
Yes the shim is in there, I assume it's there to stop the spring fretting the casing.
Tight is ok but rock solid is too tight, a bit of endfloat is always a good thing before things start to expand. |
Quote:
I used this method successfully on my old XT500C ('76) from '76 thru '93 1) gently press down on the kickstarter until you feel the compression building up 2) pull (engage / activate) the compression release 3) EASE the kickstarter just a tad/smidgen/ small amount further ** NOTE** This is the entire trick. You are merely getting the piston over Top Dead Center so you aren't fighting the compression build up. Now when you boot it, the inertia of the flywheel, cam train, piston, crank will (if performed correctly) carry the piston through the next compression cycle without you needing a Superman leg ... or the always-to-be-dreaded kickback (when you don't get the inertia necessary and upon firing the piston stops and reverses, levitating your knee into the bottom of the throttle housing with sufficent force to imprint the phillips screw heads on your knee) 4) release / deactivate compression release 5) allow the kick starter to return to its full upright / resting position 6) kick thru, a power kick is not necessary, a smooth uninterrupted stroke I used to stand (back when I was a skinny young lad) on the kickstand and let everyone see the compression hold my weight in the air, then sit on the seat and casually kick it through. of course I never mentioned the trick or the little lever under the clutch perch :biggrin3: |
I have to be honest, think id just go with a big push and a bump start over the hassle and expense of a kicker.
I Start it in 3rd or 4th gear roughly 10mph!!!! Mark |
Just found this old thread on here and I need to comment!!!
VERY IMPORTANT!! With the key turned off use the kickstart and find TDC! to find the TDC go as said before... "kick" it only by putting your weight pressure on the kickstart or similar but not that power kick to turn the bike on. You will find a point were you have alot of resistance! from there apply just a tiny bit of force until it passes that point and locks again and let the kickstart come back all the way up! YOU ARE THERE! Now, on my bike I give it FOUR full quick throttles with the choke ON, TURN ON THE KEY and give it a big powerfull kick and it ALWAYS turn the bike on! On a side note, If you have a complete dead battery on the post-1990(included) XT600E bike, no matter how much you try and kick the bike to life you WON'T BE ABLE TO! trust me on this lol!! Vando beer |
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