Which Oil
 

Having read so many differing opinions about motorcycle and car oils, I wonder what everyone out there is actually using in their xt600e?.....Probably a 10w / 40 I guess but are car oils ok?

DC

Some of the oils sold in the USA advertise that they contain "friction modifiers" - avoid them as they cause wet clutches to slip. I see many oil discussion threads where owners prefer the "heavy duty" engine oils originally formulated for diesel engines due to the higher additive content and (generally) cheaper price (e.g., Shell Rotella). Synthetic oils (diesel synthetic especially) are also recommended, with the caveat that they tend to really clean out the crankcases and can cause oil leaks if some of your gaskets have been "patched" with hardened conventional oil.

I just carried out an oil change and used quality SEMI-SINTHETIC 10w-40

4 Litres Castrol ACT/EVO £24

Hi Folks, there is a lot of crap spoken about motorcycle engine oil, when really it can be made very simple.
1.Only use the manufacturers recomended weight i.e. 10w40.
2.For bikes with wet clutches (most modern bikes) ONLY use JASO MA specified oil, this oil does not contain any friction modifiers that will make a clutch slip.
3.For bikes with a dry clutch (i.e.most ducatis) you can use the above oil or oil with a JASO MB spec. this oil contains friction modifiers.
4.Only use manufacturers recomended api rated oil i.e. API SG.
5.Fully synthetic oil should really only be used after the first service has been completed as ordinary mineral oil is preferable during the running period,most manufacturers supply new bikes with ordinary mineral oil straight from the factory for the running in period.
6.There is a myth that fully synth. oil will make your clutch slip,... this is not so, as long as your using the correct weight, correct api rating, correct jaso rating and correct oil level, and of course ensuring that the clutch plates are in good condition!
I have been a motorcycle mechanic for the last 18 years and i can honestly say i have never seen clutch slip caused by the use of fully synth. oil, there is allways another reason.
7.If you are very low on oil and cant find bike specific oil then you can actually use DIESEL engine oil! this oil is made with very high shear resistance for high compresion diesel engines, and is right at home in a high shear area like a motorcycle gearbox.
8.fully synth. oil has a much longer life span, is capable of handling extreme engine heat (much more so than mineral oil).
9.I fill every brand new bike we sell with mineral or semi synth. oil.
At first service we replace the oil with fully synthetic, this is how we have done it for years and it works perfectly!
God that was draining!:mchappy:

I'm using Pennzoil Longlife 15/40 - this is a diesel rated oil intended for extended drain intervals.I used this as the bulk oil in my tanks when I had a car repair workshop,it went in everything that came in the door,and when I left I made sure the tanks were nearly empty.The additive package is good for bikes....particularly for those with gearbox issues.It's Allison rated so good for gears and multiplate clutches.

Red Line Oil
 

Have a look at this site

Red Line Oils Australia - Redline Motor & Gear Oil, Race Oils, Auto Transmission Fluid, Hydraulic Oils, WaterWetter, Fuel Additives, 2 & 4 Stroke Oils, Suspension Fluids, Fleet Products, Diesel Additives

It is a really expensive oil, however people who use it can't say enough about it. Here is a quote from someone on a 4wd site where I asked the question a while ago about the oil.

It is an American oil, so should be available most places. It is expensive though...but reduces the need for oil changes by up to 4 times.

"The lighweight shockproof is without a doubt THE best gear oil I have ever used. It turned a gearbox with synchro's worn so badly it was hardy driveable, into a box that felt like a race car. It is more than worth the $160 per 4L bottle!!"

My 2 cents
 

I have been using Castrol GP 20W50 for years now, with good results.
So, I disagree with earlier posts about using the same viscosity (weight). The XT engine can get very hot, so the higher viscosity helps.
For colder climates I would consider 10W40.
As to oil changes: the oil in the engine also lubricates the gearbox, which means that the teeth of the gears cut the longer molecules, that provide the viscosity rating, in pieces. Over use the oil's viscosity decreases. That is why in XT engines the oil should be refreshed preferably every 6000 km's. Anybody selling you oil at 40$ a liter allegedly is selling you a fairytale.

Auke

Hi
I use Motul 5100 15W50 for my XT 600 and i change it every 5000 km.Oil filter change every 10 000 km.
So far so good :thumbup1:

Thruth about Synthetic Oil
 

This is something you can find in many other threads... funny though:

This article contains vital information for any bike owner. Read this on the net so it must be true.

From the AFM-ClubRacer list
Subject: Beware synthetic oil

Beware of synthetic oil, it can do terrible things to you and your beloved motorcycle. It will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action.
Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically, dropping your bike on the ground! But that's not all...
Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. It will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and she'll never ride with you again. Synthetic oil coats your sight window and your timing window with a whitish
pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak onto the ground overnight and your dog will drink it and die.
Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam your zippers shut. It will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. It will make it rain during rallies and on weekends. It will lubricate your timing belts causing them to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every six miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots right before you walk across your new carpeting.
While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp, and then it voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555. It
also dries out your wetclutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your clutch slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure.
Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your faceshield and make your gloves shrink two sizes night before trackday. Synthetic oil stole your neutral and sold it to the Chinese for $1.25. Synthetic oil will make you grow a tail. Synthetic oil will write long crazy e-mails to your Internet friends and then sign your name at the bottom!

So that's what's causing all that! Thanks for the info, I will never, ever use synthetic oil again. Ever.

Hear! Hear!

Use it in the GS too.

fabulous stuff!

I dont know nothing about oil vicosity etc. I read the book of words and it said put the bunker oil in, avoid the shiny racing stuff, 'cause the shiny bottle with the racing stuff is for shiny pocket rockets and their blowhard power rangers and for the pipe an slipper brigade who bought into Ewan and Charlie's advertisement but dont know sherbet from sugar unless there is a price tag attatched.

anyway

20W50. The bike ran smoother... that must be a good thing? The bikes, especially the GS, never proved to be an oil guzzler like all the doomsday prophets warned. Tried changing once to 10W40....engine felt buzzy and "hollow". Only downside.... bit of a inconvenient grade to find at times. Those that I know who have tried 20W50, now swear by it.

I try and go with something easy to clean up for the triumph.... still 'oozing character'!