TENERE 34L tips
 

> Klaus I own a 34L model, 1983 XT 600 Tenere, What modifications would
you
> suggest for this model, to make it more reliable. stronger etc for long
distance and off-road.
> Much appreciated.
> Cheers Doug.

hi doug,
although the 34L is known as a very reliable and strong bike, there are some points to mention:

first and main: oilpump!
the oilpump (to be correct: there are two pumps in one housing, one to bring back the oil from the dry sump to the oiltank and one to lubricate camshaft, piston,
crankshaft etc.) is a bit weak, there are reports about piston-problems (overheating) because of that.
recommondation: change against the actual pump (first used in tenere 3AJ, '88 model until today in every xt/tt600 model). the haul capacity is double compared to the
old one. here is a pic of the pump:http://www.xt600.de/xt_schraubertips...e_1vj_expl.jpg. you can identify the actual pump by the two grooves to be found on the outside end of the drive axle (pic shows 86-87 model's pump:
one groove, haul: 50% more). important: you have to change also the plastic sprocket against the new one since the drive axle is longer! don't forget paper-gasket and
two o-rings.

then:
rims: there are reports about small cracks in the rims of '83 and '84 model. check that. starting from tenere 55W ('85 model) the rims are different and better.

suspension: if you ride offroad and/or with heavy luggage, different suspension is very recommended. front: use white power or technoflex progressive springs. rear:
use öhlins (from sweden, this is the best available) or white power or technoflex. a suspension unit with external compensation tank is expensive, but worth of its
money. unfortunatly such things are difficult to find second hand, even in germany.

chain-kit: very recommendable, especially for offroad is a ratio of 14:40 (front/rear sprocket). use D.I.D. x-ring chain with a dry-lube spray.

gears: the 5th gear is a known weak point of all xt600 models until today (but worst until 1988). the live-span of the gear is usually about 50.000-60.000 km but
depends very much on the driver. avoid low (<3000) and high (>6000) revs. especially strong acceleration from low revs in 5th gear is deadly. there are possibilities to
make the 5th gear more relaible, but i can't describe everything in detail here. ask, if you want to do something.

alternator, cdi-unit: isolation of the coils in the alternator was not the best in the models up to 1988. this may cause ignition problems, especially if the bike was out of
use for a long time. check resistance values of the coils if you have problems to start the bike. the cdi circuit is a bit strange, but it works. nevertheless i would consider
it as a good idea to have a spare one or at least to know where you can get one if nessecary.

that should do for the first. have fun and send us a pic from the outback!
bye
klaus


[This message has been edited by Grant Johnson (edited 18 November 2001).]

Why is the 5th gear prone to failure, what happens? Do the teeth on the gear break off or what. What recommendations would you suggest to make it more robust(reliable). Also if I stay with the original oil pump and only operate the bike within 3 -> 6000 rpms what is the likely effect on piston, cylinder, camshaft etc Does changing the oil pump considerably increase the life of the engine?
Thanks Doug

Why is the 5th gear prone to failure, what happens? Do the teeth on the gear break off or what.

5th gear is sensitive to strong acceleration in low revs which causes extremly high pressure on the teeth.
second, greasing of the gears is done from the hauling circuit, the oil is more hot then the oil of the feed circuit.
hot oil - less greasing.
most common problem is pitting.
here you can find a pic of such a gear: http://www.xt600.de/xt_schraubertips...ingbildung.jpg
the small, hardened steel parts escaping from the teeth may cause serios damage to oilpump, bearings etc.

What recommendations would you suggest to make it more robust(reliable).

there are several measures to minimize the wear of the gear:
simple measures:
1) use motorcycle engine oil designed for greasing also clutch and gears
2) use chain kit with 14:40 ratio (or 14:45 for newer xt's)
3) avoid low and very high revs
difficult measures (you have to open the engine):
4) use the gearbox of newer xt's (different ratio of gears)
5) modifiy the lubrication circuit to the one of newer xt's (starting from tenere 3AJ, 1988)
6) mount a special oil jet in the crankcase above 5th gear
(http://www.xt600.de/xt_schraubertips...uese_klein.jpg http://www.xt600.de/xt_schraubertips...ert_klein.jpg)


Also if I stay with the original oil pump and only operate the bike within 3 -> 6000 rpms
what is the likely effect on piston, cylinder, camshaft etc

compared to new oil pump: less oil - less lubrication - bigger wear

Does changing the oil pump considerably increase the life of the engine?

i would say it depends very much on the driver and the way he treats the engine.
there are enough people who used the original 34L for more than 100.000 kms without opening the engine.
on the other hand there are also enough examples where the engine's live ended suddenly due to lubrication problems.
there are two simple rules for a good driver:
carefully warm up the engine; drive at least 20 km until you use higher revs (> 4500)
change oil every 5.000 km

bye
klaus

Klaus,

Thank YOU for that very good list of recommendations. I have teh same bike 83 model with 26,000 kilos on it, very reliable never had a problem but will do what you recommend before the next big trip planned from Dakar Mali to the Red Sea.

Small tip that to anyone interested, I find the kickstarter on that model a bit weak too, it tends to crack at the bottom, have welded mine once already.

Another question, how well can the XT cross water, say rivers where the engine gets in contact with the water ?

Second question, my fuel tap is tight as hellm especially when hot. I opened it and took out the little spring, didn't help, what can I do ?

Another question, I fell and the screen inside the tank that stops the fuel from sloshing back and forth has come loose and rattles, how do I fix that, any ideas ?

Last question, how do check whether the wheel bearings are still OK ? Do I need special tools to change them out ?

Thanks a lot for this site,

Hed

hi hed,
kickstarter lever is okay and reliable, as long as the decompression lever and cable is ok and good adjusted. most kickstart-problems result from broken decompression-cable or false adjustment. with a proper adjusted decompression unit, you can kickstart your xt by hand!
water-crossing:
as long as the water doesn't invade the air filter (level must be below seat), no problem! drive neither to slow nor to fast.
fuel tap:
dismount everything and clean each part. use steel-wool (or how do you call this in english?). apply some grease on the o-ring.
tank:
no way to fix without opening the tank (and who would do such crazy thing?)
bearings:
changing is described in the clymer repair manual. to check the bearings it is important to remove the grease first (use brake-cleaner spray). bearing has to turn without any sign of resistance and very smoothly.
have fun!
klaus
mailto:klaus@xt600.de

Klasu,

Txs for the tip re the compression. On my machine the kickstarter moves really easy, but when I want to start it I usually slowly kick it through 2 or 3 times until I get to teh compression stroke, I then relax my foot and let it come back a little bit and then I kick it. At this point I really have to kick it as I feel the compression strongly. Is that correct ? Your comment regarding adjusting the decompression properly, how do I do that ? I looked it up in the manual and all they say is to set it to 0.5 OT, what does that mean ? I checked mine and it has about 0.5 cm play, but I have no idea what that means. Any pointers ?

Secondly, the k&n airfilter, do you have a model number or something similar, I searched teh internet and also went to their website, but nogo cannot find anything. Are you suggesting toi remove the whole plastic airfilter box and just fitting normal airfilter ? Please explain.

On the oil pump, would you recommend doing that modification even if the old one is running fine and I have not had any overheating problems ?

Txs again,

Heye

kick-start:
your procedure is ok.
it is VERY important to have sufficient play on the decompression lever. if not, exhaust
valve might not close completly and will burn then because it can't submit the heat of the
hot exhaust to the cylinder head.
on the other hand, too much play will make kick-starting more difficult and the cable may break.
to adjust you have to put the piston to top dead center (tdc=highest position of piston AND
all valves are closed, which takes place every 2nd rev of crankshaft. OT is the german
abbreviation for this).
yamaha says, in this position the play of the lever should be 0.5 mm. i would say 1 mm,
to be on the safe side. the adjustment can be done on the adjuster locknut in the middle of
the decompression cable.

airfilter:
you can purchase this filter from http://www.kedo.com in hamburg, germany.
tell them i send you, they know me.
this k&n filter fits for all 34L, 43F, 55W and 2KF/2NF, they all have the same airfilter
housing (in which the filter is installed).

oil pump:
lets say you are a doctor and you have two patients, one with a strong heart and one with a
weak heart. what would you say, which one lives longer?
think about it!

bye
klaus
mailto:klaus@xt600.de

Klaus
About the pitting on the 5th gear; did you see an improvement after the fitting of the oiljet ? Did you see any differences with different oils ? What's the reason for the pitting, gear too soft, oil from return pump too hot ? Wouldn't it a good idea too use an oil with good e.p. (extreme pressure)additives (for instance moly). About the wear on the oilpump one tip: mount some strong magnets in the oilpan it will protect the oilreturnpump, Wouldn't it be a good idea to mount an oilfilter in the return line to the oiltank ? (cooler oil, protection of the feed oilpump) Regards

Oil pump etc
 

I just like to say thanks to Klaus for this oil pump info.

I was scratching my head why my oil kept disappearing from my tank after leaving the bike standing & also wondering why I'd had to re-bore the bike twice in 55000km. Now it all makes sense. Fitted new-type pump as per instructions and now ride around with some confidence that the next re-bore isn't just round the corner! (the change in pumps was particularly striking when I bled the air from the oil-filter housing: it used to ooze out slowly, now a jet of oil shoots 30cm into the air!).

I'd also second the weak gears - my whole gearbox was breaking up, but fortunately I found a new set which had been made for the UK "Sound of the Singles" race series (at huge expense) and never used - I got them for 50 pounds & slotted them straight in.

I also put Akront rims on as mine had the evil alloy cancer from within.

So, hopefully I've had all the problems now and my bike will run smoothly for another 55000 km ... off to Morocco next year (the bike did CapeTown - London in 1990 already)

How do I actually find the TDC position without opening up the engine?

safe riding =)

Feel for it basically, as described in earlier posts here from years ago.

A few points: if you have an electric starter, then you don't care about TDC.
For the kickstarter, you are very interested because it makes the starting procedure so much more reliable - hence all those people who claim their bike starts "first or second kick, every time".

So, you feel for the compression resistance of the piston as it comes up on the compression stroke - when you judge that it is at the TDC position, or very slightly past TDC, that is when you start the bike "for real"; until then you are turning the engine over only so that you can find TDC.
(Practice it if you are not sure).

When you are working on the engine there are far more accurate methods for getting the piston at TDC, because you can see it or feel it.

5th
 

Greetings:

I have a 1985 34L.

It's got a bit of a whine in 5th gear. Most noticeable at 70kph, goes away by 100kph.

Might this be the dreaded 5th gear issue? Machine seems to work fine otherwise.

Thoughts and opinions?

Thanks! :scooter:

Others can jump in here too but I expect the whine is being caused by the wear on the teeth. If indeed that is what is causing the whine, use the winter to pull the engine apart. Better than having a gear break and cause major damage.

:oops2::oops2::oops2:

l
 

That is not what I wanted to hear. I'd like to hear that it's normal, or perhaps a small squirrel in the airbox. :(

It's odd that it goes away. Harmonics or such maybe?

The whole things makes all kinds of interesting noises. Always has. Just distinct in 5th.

That is why I said to get other opinions. I've not noticed a whine in my USA XT600's

xt
 

Oh please don't misunderstand, I appreciate the advice, just hoping for best case. :thumbup1:

Do you know if the North American XT600 engine or internals are the same as the 34L?

Wondering if you can pull the gears and shafts from a low mileage XT600 (if you could find one) and use them in the Tenere.

I have checked the filter very very closely and there is nothing in it. Nothing major of note on the drain plug magnet either...

The spalling of fifth will be small bits that won't stand out as something coming apart, til it get really bad. I'm not sure if the US xt transmission has the exact same gearing but I bet it is and would drop right in. The thing with the fifth going out is the amount of highway miles put on over in Europe, which does tend to chug more from low rpms for the power needed. Over here the bikes don't get those kind of miles, we tend to do more short runs, to/from work, and some offroad playing, not a whole lot of time in fifth. The newer E-start models did get used a bit more and they were geared higher, then fifth started going out on them also.

Never head about issues with E-models. I use a 16 tooth front sprocket to lower rpm's at interstate ect on my 2003 model, and im just over 150.000km without issues... :D

The 3TB I got had a spalled fifth , The last transmission I'd seen on Ebay over here for one also had a chewed up fifth.

T drilled the banjo bolts out .015" bigger to allow a bit more oil to the tranny so maybe it'll help.

What is spalled?

As in the surface was chipping and flaking off.

Jens your bike is a 4pt , maybe it had been solved on those.

5th
 

You replaced the gears themselves did you?

This bike came from EU some years ago. They never were a North American market item in 34L/55W trim.

It does have some distance on it, 92k km, but it's not the original engine. First one was removed for, you guessed it, spalling on gears.

Which banjos were drilled yours?

Thanks.

Yea i would think so, the 3tb had already been out there for 5years and i quess they knew about problems.

I drilled the 2 that hold the oil line from the clutch cover to the transmission, I am trying to remember if the kick start motor had that line. I'm drawing a blank right now. Been working on the newer ones so much lately. I think they do ???

Not until the 88-89 model year. THUMPTHUMP

I just saw this, but I guess that was meant as newer than the old non E-start models, and not the newest of the E-models.

3tb 5th gear issues seems rare tho'. Is anyone certain of which parts was upgraded? There's been a lot of talk about bad heat-treating of the gears, oil-starvation ect ect...

5th gear history
 

The XT600 transmission seems to be a direct carry-over from 550. 5th gear has been modified over the life of the 600.
The following is what i think happened, in roughly this order:

1986, 5th pinion prefix changed to 1VJ, suggesting there was a problem.

1988, 1st series 3AJ, larger oil pump.

1989, 2nd series 3AJ, outside oil line fitted to supply gears with pressured and cooler oil. (silver casings but not fitted to 2KF)

Not sure when next mod took place. A change was made in primary gear ratio to run the transmission faster. The sprocket ratio was changed from 15 : 40 to 14 : 40 to correct the overall ratio. This reduces the torque load in the transmission.

Somewhere new 5th gears were made prefixed 2JT. Tooth numbers changed from 27/24 to 24/19, so can be fitted in pairs only. Tooth shape may have change too.

90s, wider gears with prefix 3YF were used in the 4pt and maybe earlier.
Something could be linked to when the clutch cable moved from left to right hand side but it is not clear.

All XT 600 transmissions are basically the same. Early kickstart bikes had coarse splined output shafts. Electric start bikes had a longer output shaft, and maybe a fine spline with nut.
It is likely all XT600 got these changes worldwide at roughly the same years.

I am very open to correction and keen to know more.

I fitted a 5Y1 and a 1VJ pair of 5th gears just over 2 years ago, while still learning. 32,000 km later they are howling :(

2JT gears are unobtainable now, so 3YF will have to do. This time i will take photos and make notes:oops2:

p

That's a good synopsis of the XT600 5th gear problems Pete.
I thought I'll add my 2 cents worth.

The 1996 - 1997 4PT1 3TB had the clutch cable on the left hand side of the engine & did still have a 5th gear wear problem, although not as bad as the earlier models.

The 1997 onward 4PT2/3/4 DJ02 had the clutch cable on the right hand side of the engine (which looks like the XT660) and they had no 5th gear wear problems.

Bob

The us version ,'90 thru '95 were basically E-start 2kf models to every other country so they are the very first 3TBs. I bet the DJ02 gears are very close to the 660's. I know mine were just a little narrower but otherwise would pretty much fit, so if they widened the last version that should be a match. Anyone compare the 2 over there? We don't have the bike motor so I don't know if they are different than the quads.

34l
 

Pete et al: Thanks! Good info.

The 1VJ, 5Y1 etc are simply designations for certain years are they not?

I am lucky in that I have some spares, but if I'm just fitting the same flawed gears, then I'm just resetting the clock for another failure I suppose.

Sounding like some of the newer models can have a similar issue if lots of highway miles in 5th are a regular occurance?

Thanks!

If you can put the newest version in I would go that route, otherwise it may or may not eventually be an issue. If I was planning to do a lot of long hours on one I'd send it in to be coated with something like our endmills and metal cutting tools get, AlTin, TiN, ect... Like this Surface Solutions - Your Source for Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) Coatings. The guy we send to quoted me around $20-$30 to do a pair of gears. Maybe it wouldn't work, maybe it would , Honda and some others do it to the small connecting rod end instead of a bearing and it holds up great, little different application though.

Best solution dont use the 5th gear, change sprockets to get a little higher speed on 4th.

What changes made 5th gear last
 

Hi and thanks for the contributions.

I looked at 5 items that could impact 5th gear life and where/when they were introduced:

1, new better gears, 1986 1VJ and both in 1988 on 3AJ, prefix 2JT.
2, better lubrication, greater volume oil pump, 1VJ, 3AJ. Same dates.
3, better lubrication, dedicated oil line. 1988 parts list has that pipe.
4, changed primary ratios reducing torque load. Again 1988 3AJ.

None of the above seem to have made much difference.

Then there is a gap in my info until 2001 and the 4PT list

5, new better gears, wider. Prefix 3YF As Bobmech posts; problem solved.

Good Grief, i've just googled 3YF and the gap is filled. 3YF is 660. These gears have been used in 600s since 1996.

I feel a bit silly. Didn't think Yamaha would carry on with a transmission that had been a failure since 1983.

So top tip is, if you have been hording 5th gears... toss them out and get the latest 660 ones.

Seriously, there must be a way to fit these reliably. I found one could machine 2nd gear narrower, only the centre of it, not teeth. But the wider 3Y 5th gear which engages 2nd, is very close. ie. 2nd neutral is tenuous. I made a small mod to the ramp on drum to compensate. We have not run that engine yet!

We need to look inside a late 600 gearbox. Anyone?

p

I've got a TT600R from 2001 (build from 97-02). Model code is 5CH.

I went to motorcycle spare parts.eu and the 5th gear part code is 3YP171510100. Apparently its a 24 tooth pinion.

Does anyone know which XT its from?

My TT has the clutch routing on the left side of the engine and seems to be assembled from the Yamaha parts bin...cylinder from a 3TB, crank case assemble from a 4PT, etc.

EDIT: I dont know if it's a 24 tooth pinion, it just says "GEAR 5TH PINION (24T)".

5th gear mods
 

3YP does not immediately reveal itself. 3YF i think is the 1st XT660, air cooled 5 valve engine.

Considering how Yamaha use prefixes for basic models and then small changes to that prefix for certain countries, 3YP is probably just a variation of 3TF.
BUT; a new part takes on the prefix of the bike where it is 1st used.
Or that is what we are told. So you may find that there is a significant difference.

Your gear does not have the 5CH prefix of the bike, so was used on a 3TP bike. It has the correct middle part of number to be a 5th pinion. All 5th pinions anywhere are XXX 17151 XX XX. And it has 24 teeth. The last 2 sets of digits can be important. The 2nd last may indicate a mod of significance.
The very last 2 often omitted, usually a colour.

The best resource i have found: cmsnl has a discrption: Yamaha - frequently asked questions

Interesting to see that the late 4PT engines still used the old 34K 2nd gear. So the space was created another way.

I picked up my new 5th gears from my friendly Yamaha dealer yesterday:D
Going to be a few days before i can get to work on the bike.

best,
p

I checked the link...it seems that my 5th gear has one design change.

Thanks for the link.

new 5th gears
 

Hi PropTP, et al,
I reveal my lack of knowledge:stupid: Your bike is a TT, i have almost no docs on them.
Fact is there is just too much, i can't / don't want to go there. Rather we should be able to find our way around the bikes we own.

To that end i'll correct a few of my mistakes and just start the 5th gear mod. I think that the whole job should have a dedicated thread, and i'll take a while to get that done. Very busy right now.

The 5 changes i talked about: the change in transmission ratio would have had a beneficial effect on life. Engineering principles. The 2JT gears used from 3AJ right up to the 660 3YF probably did too.

But the final mod, which now looks likely to have been most effective, was the adoption of 660 gears.

The clutch cable move had nothing to do with it, happened to be changed for 660 and adopted for 600. Seems logical.

I missed that. I found it difficult to make that connection because i never found a part list 1st 660.

Looking at the 600E part lists available right here, both 3TB and 4PT in various markets it is beyond us to find each change. The 4PT transmission has many 3YF parts. The entire case is 4PT, as is the shift drum and shift forks.

So my mod will be to a 2KF, very similar to later 3TBs and 600s sold in USA.

This has been done before. I have no doubt David Lambeth has been doing something like this for a long time. Probably perfected it, with all the experience he has.

Here, if i get it right, are photos of the gears. Plain to see they are wider, 11.2 mm to 14mm for pinion.

p

I am a bit confused about the oil pump. The parts list I looked at showed the 3AJ pump used in the 84,85,86 motor a 1VJ in the 89 motor and the 90,91 shows the 3AJ again. If the oil volume increased as said why is the pump the same in the 90 as the 85? The odd man out is the 89 with the 1VJ. Even though the 3AJ is the same the part number differs several times. 86-88 3AJ-99999-01858-00, 90 3AJ is 99999-02120-00, and the 89 and 91 3AJ shows 99999-02117-00. WTF! THUMPTHUMP

Partzilla shows a complete number change in '90-'95 ,'84 to '88 , and '89. Comes out right with the new pumps in '90, don't know what the difference is in the '89, I'd have to look at mine when I replace it . The 3AJ designation is just Yamahas letters for the oil pump on Xt's , or something like that. Wherever you got those numbers from is mislabeled.

On-line parts lists are confusing. It seems they only deal in models sold in US and are unaware of rest of world and change points we know by model and year.

Example: the big end crank-pin changed diameter by 1 mm somewhere between 34L and 2KF and i bought the wrong pin, 44 mm instead of 45 mm.
But how can i blame Partzilla when they appear to have no idea what a 34L or a 2KF is.

US seem to only ever have got the 43F right up to 1990. Correct me please, but some changes must have filtered thru' to those bikes, just no mention other an alphabetic letter applied to years, while the rest of us use a calendar.

I no longer go to on-line if i don't already have the part number from a Yamaha part list. It is now no longer difficult to find these, some are here and Mezo has a bunch over on his Tenere site.

BTW, this number 99999-02117-00 was used earlier to identify probably the 3AJ pump maybe as a kit with gasket and o rings. Yes, confusing.

But here is a short reasonably accurate explanation of oil history from the guru himself, enjoy:

XT Klaus cont:
anyway, since very long time yamaha doesn't sell 34L oil pumps anymore.
the only oil pumps available are the 1VJ pump and the 3AJ pump.
the feed side rotor thickness and hence the hauling capacity has developed from 4 mm (34L) to 6 mm (1VJ) to 8 mm (3AJ).
scavenger side rotor thickness is always 18 mm.
every pump is coded with 5Y1 on the bottom and a) no code (34L) b) 1VJ c) 3AJ on top.
there are also three different shafts:
34L: one groove (for circlip)
1VJ: two grooves
3AJ: three grooves
34L shaft and 1VJ shaft have equal length, only the drive pin hole position is different (because different thickness of rotor). therefore both pumps use the same sprocket.
3AJ shaft is longer and therefore requires a different sprocket (with code 3AJ).
yamaha advises to use the 1VJ pump for the following models: 34L, 55W, 43F, 1VJ, 2KF, 2NF, 59X(TT600).
3AJ pump should be used in 3AJ, 3TB, 4PT, DJ02 (generally every xt600 model since 1989 (tenere) resp. 1990 and also the later tt600 models).
nevertheless it is possible to mount the 3AJ pump in a 34L engine.
i would use the 1VJ pump for a 34L.
beside the pump you need two new o-rings and a paper gasket (to be mount between pump and housing). if you choose the 3AJ pump you need also the 3AJ sprocket. And 3 longer bolts 35mm.
XT Klaus

Give that man a Bells

p

Ya, the US only got 2 models and they didn't go in corresponding order as everyone else. I think ours are a mix of 34L & 43F's and 2kf & 3TB.

The 3aj pump fits fine in the 43F's that Yamaha advises against, maybe because the gear needs to be flipped over. All our older pumps have 1VJ on them with a 3AJ marked gear(confused yet?), at least all the motors I've had here. Like I said we got a mixed bag of parts, but not enough models.

I am trying to get a used high volume pump off ebay. I have to use the pictures to ID the pump with the higher volume. I do not really want to have to trust the year they post as the gospel. Any 89 or 90 pump would be the high volume pump? THUMPTHUMP

Or newer than that 3TB & 4PT`s pump & i think its in the SRX600 as well & even the 660`s use it.

As long as you can see 3AJ on there is the higher flow pump.

http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/a...AJoilpump1.jpg

Mezo.

An '89 will not be the high volume one from a US model anyways, it has to be from '90-'95, the Estart models.

Mezo, I've found the 660 ones(at least the quad motor) have one mount bolt that is off by a couple mm,When I tried one in my 600 and threaded 2 of the three in and assumed the third was fine also so quit fitting it , the third can be used but needs to be slotted. I wanted to update that info. Otherwise everything is identical. It was my mistake for not trying that third bolt also.

Also note that there is a middle volume pump, 1VJ , that has more volume than the 34's but not as much as the 3AJ , it has the letters 1VJ and is in '88-'89 at least maybe earlier, i'm not sure,
The right is the 34L original pump , left is the middle volume,
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...537/saWONY.jpg

Note the 2mm thicker pump, the 3AJ pump is another 2 mm thicker yet.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...903/t3MpIt.jpg

The lettering refers to the Tenere model codes, 1VJ (1986/1987) then the Tenere 3AJ 1988,89 & 90) but they worked well so they used the same pump in all XT`s from then on in, 3TB 4P using Tenere model codes.

Al i know is the 3AJ pump is 50% more oil flow than your standard earlier pumps, i never knew about the 1VJ pump to be honest but interesting none the less.

Geoff took a pic of the 34L versus the 3AJ.

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/z...psbb352fb3.jpg

Mezo.

I have a ivj coming from Ebay. At least its am improvement on the original 86 pump. THUMPTHUMP

May i suggest you look at the insides that pump.

Also take care what gear you use on it. I a 1VJ pump with a 59 mm shaft and 3AJ gear were in the 2KF from new.

p

The US has 3AJ gears.