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Stubborn flywheel
I am having a hell of a time getting the magneto off my bike. I have broken 1 puller and have another on there now. I have heated the hub several times and it just won't budge! I have the replacement parts, just can't get the old ones off. Any tips would be very appreciated!
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Hi
what bike ? I used a good quality puller for my xtz660 (i.e. yamaha original = expensive) and an impact driver ( I think that's what the're called - the type used to take wheel nuts off. I brought a cheap electric one as the pnuematic one I had didn't give enough torque). With this set up I didn't even need to brace the magneto hub. It sort of shocks the hub loose. hope this helps Davy |
I think you need a real high quality puller,I did mine,a 43f bike a few months ago.With my puller the rotor would'nt budge,I ended up taking the motor round to my mates and we got the rotor off using his puller.
I think the rotor was harder to remove from the XT than any other bike I've worked on! |
Yip - it will be tight. Just to let you know I made a puller in work from pretty heavy steel and it still flexed with the amount of stress it was under. In fact I was getting a bit nervous at just how tight I was pulling things up!
Tighten the puller really hard then hit the centre screw a good thump with a heavy hammer, might help to budge it. |
XT600 flywheel removal
i bent one puller, then tried another and still would not budge
I dont like the idea of using a hammer so I wound the puller up and then heated the flywheel with a butane flame like the ones used for plumbing. it took a while but it came flying off with a bang. just leave the nut on a bit to stop the flywheel going on the floor and be carefull with the flame on the plastic on the inner of the flywheel. have fun |
Stupid flywheel
Thanks for the replys! It is a 1990 XT600e. I still have the puller installed and it's under tention. I am going out after supper to hit it with some more heat. I thought it might just pop off with a couple more heat cycles. I will keep everyone posted.
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Broke another puller and bent the bolts on another and the damn flywheel just won't budge. If I can't get this off, I'm gonna have to part this bike out. It's no good to me otherwise.
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Me and my mate fixing his xtz660:
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/uploads/890/IMG_1093.JPG A old puller, a big ass tool to hold the puller together so it wouldt spring/loosen off, and then the hammer you see in the picture. Thats really what it took for us to yank it of, it was apparently a really tight fit. |
If you can buy, beg , borrow or steal a wheel nut remover (impact driver), you will not need heat, large levers or any other contraption.
My electric driver cost 25 euro from the hardware store. A good quality puller is also required. The wheel nut remover shocks the flywheel loose. You will not even have to brace the flywheel as in the picture. I have even used it to remove the flywheel again after I had locked it with threadlock fluid. Davy |
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here's a pic of the set up I used.
Yamaha puller about 90 euro, wheel nut driver 25 euro, socket 20 mm and I cut three bolts from stainless threaded bar as I guessed that it was less elastic than mild steel. Davy |
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i bent my original puller, then bought a more sturdy (but cheap) one from machine mart. and used the heat method. it takes along time to get the flywheel hot enough, but it will let go if under tension eventually once off i made a cardboard template from the 3 holes on the flywheel, ready to make a bespoke puller next time. and remember, calling the bike names, throwing things at it, kicking it, wont get the flywheel off... |
I also have bad memories of the XT rotor !! Man, its on TIGHT !!!
Persevere though, it WILL move eventually. The best types of puller are slide hammers. I adapterd a puller like davypo's with a slide hammer and it budged after 10 mins. http://www.metalnerd.com/images/prod...t10/mn1818.jpg |
:confused1:Thanks for all the thoughts! I went to NAPA and got a harmonic balancer removal puller today. The bolts were the wrong thread pitch so a friend that works for Kimbal MidWest is getting some for me tomorrow. I have used and impact driver in the past. It stripped the threads of the first puller. So, now with the better puller an addition of heat and the impact driver this thing better come off!
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It's off, it's off, it's finally off!
That stupid flywheel is finally off! A new stouter puller, a can of "Cold Shot", the impact driver, and a 3 lb. sledge hammer. Put the puller under stress, blasted almost a full can of "Cold Shot". Then a liberal helping of PB Blaster penatrating oil, a little more stress on the puller...... 4 or 5 smacks with the BFH and it popped right off! WOO HOO!!!!!! Now I have to chase out the 3 allen bolts I drilled out in my haste to get the flywheel off. The things we do when our impatients wins out! Thanks for everyones help. I will post some photos later.:thumbup1:
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1990 XT600e photos
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more!
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Glad you made it.
The best solution, in my opinion, remains the the slide hammer. I know it`s in Romanian, but it has lots of photos and i`m sure you`ll understand what i say there. It is a tutorial i wrote, about all the stages of total opening/dismantling the 3AJ engine: Demontarea motorului de YAMAHA XT600Z TENERE 3 AJ- Yamaha Tenere - Motor Somewhere there (pass the 3/4 of it) you will find the scheme and explanations of how to build an extractor for stubborn flywheels. You will recognize those schemes as they are the only color schemes made with "Windows Paint", as all the other images from the tutorial are JPG`s. If you won`t have all the patience in the world, these are the pictures that really say it : http://www.tenereclub.ro/images/site...ja%20surub.jpg (the slide hammer) http://www.tenereclub.ro/images/site...0presa%201.jpg (the assembly - slide hammer + the plate) It is really important that the left end of the slide hammer (from the first link) to sit on this edge of the shaft (where the thread ends) and to have a cilinder profile, in order to cover the thread: http://www.tenereclub.ro/images/site...ALONZO%201.jpg If you build your own extractor using the scheme from the French manual (which i used only to inspire and don`t rely on 100%): http://www.tenereclub.ro/images/site...20franceza.jpg http://www.tenereclub.ro/images/site...20franceza.jpg use thicker metal for the "plate" - 1 cm. I also did it from 2 pieces, welded with gas (argon): http://www.tenereclub.ro/images/site...20-%20disc.jpg If you still want to use the French extractor (sold also by some other shops on the internet), never place the long, extracting central screw directly on the shaft as you have all the chances to "flower" its axle like in the picture above. http://www.tenereclub.ro/images/site...LONZZO%202.jpg Also, very important is not to put heat in that area as the flywheel`s magneto is glued with epoxidic resins that will 100% fail under heat and leave you with a useless/"magnetless" flywheel (i was almost on the point to do the same mistake). The nut i extracted with air impact wrench. So... P.S. : - Sorry for my English. - If there`s no way to understand the schemes and explanations from them, please tell me and i`ll translate this part of the tutorial. |
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