Spark Plug Gap XTZ660
 

Hi folks, sorry to bother and all but I'm trying to find out what the spark plug gap on my 1996 XTZ660 should be set to?

Should it be different at different times of the year? i.e. winter summer?

Thanks a bunch to anyone who knows,

Tony.

It's mentioned in the book which I don't have here. But a 660 doesn't really care about the gap size. Anything will do.

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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.

Thanks Fred - there was me thinking I might have an easy solution to my starting problems with my XTZ - look like I will have to take the Carbs out and get the Choke checked...

Quick question - anyone know - I'f I use a Start/Charge Pack - 130AMP - short term start charge to boost my battery whilst I get it started - been sat for a few months - will it damage my Gel battery - it's topped up with an Accumate most of the time but just don't want to strain the battery...

If not is using a Car battery and jump leads ok?

Thanks, tony.

If I'm not mistaken it's the voltage over 12V of a normal battery charger that kills our gel batteries. That would mean jump starting is ok.
Make sure that you drain the carb before trying to start.
Don't remove the carb, you ca check the choke plunger first if you really want. If it moves ok lube it and leave it.
To avoid starting problems with the unleaded fuel I always close the fuel cock about a km before getting home.

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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.

tony , ive jump started my xtz660 off my car several times... it beats trying to push start the brute...phil.

FredXTZ said...
"To avoid starting problems with the unleaded fuel I always close the fuel cock about a km before getting home"

What problems with unleaded fuel? My bike always starts freely no matter I use leaded or unleaded fuel? What is the point?
AnteK

I had a look at the choke last night and wasn't happy with the apparent movement, so off came the tank (again) and various other bits and out came the Carbs...

On closer inspection the cable was gunked up right inside the carb (after the 90 degree bend in the wire and the screw in cap)....

So it looks like its time to get it sorted - I'm in two minds about wether to try and dismantle it myself or get the local mechanic - top bloke - to do it for me.... I have the parts catalogue but can't see how the cable connects and can't find a reference to it in my srevice manual - anyone replaced a choke cable yet?

How easy was it....

Tony.

Tony : it's quite easy, unscrew the bronze thing, take out the choke plunger and fiddle the cable loose. As I said, you don't have to take the carb off. Leave the carb as long as it's ok.
Ante : unleaded fuel forms a dried layer on top [like on pudding] and when you don't use the bike for a week or so, it might start with difficulty.

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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.

Daft question - but which bit is the choke plunger? I get the bronze screw bit, with the spring behind it, but beyond there is all gunked up? How do I get to the other end of the choke cable? Sorry not a whizz with Carbs...

Tony.

The 'beyond there' part is the choke plunger with the end of the choke cable connected inside. Try to soak it in penetrating stuff. It'll have to come out.
And to avoid this problem in future, stop washing your bike with a hp cleaner. It's a Ténéré, a Fierce Desert Bike, and should not be clean!

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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.

Thanks Fred,

I started working on it last night and it's didn't want to move, penetration oil on it for hours, the work, eventually one of the brass lugs snapped of and the cable came out so I've given to my local friendly bike man to sort out - think he's going to drill it out... oh well....

As for HP washing - never - think it's only seen a bucket of water once.... as for the previous owner who knows... just another one of those things you only find out about with time...

thanks again...

Tony.