I tried that now, put the brake pad in and it seemed to work. I also had the bolt in on the left side. And when I pumped the left side of the caliper moved but not the right side. Unfortunately the bolt also got stuck because of the piston pushing it probably took the threads on the bolt. The bolt was very hard to screw out but i forced it and it broke off. A bit of it is sitting inside..

Well I think I can fix that later, i think the bolt that is left in there can be taken out. Now ill try what you said and remove the whole thing and let it soak in rust releaser. If it wont come loose after that ill take the caliper to a local mechanic.

Yes you need longer bolt so you have more threads and screw it slowly out when you pump, you got pressure and maybe had a couple of threads left. It was only for support in the beginning, now you can use a a quick grip, the old one you can screw slowly out when pressure the pedal. Remember if you are new in mechanics you need to take everything slowly, or you get alot of broken bolts and damage things on the way.

When you got pressure on this, dont just give more on the pedal. Let it stay with pressure for a day and varm up from time to time with new rust releaser. If you have freeze spray you can heat up the outside and freeze the bolt inside when its pressure on this.

An anglegrinder is starting to sound appealing...

Yes if they only sold the part you need, its not easy to find caliper used. And pretty expensive new so take your time and you maybe save this. Offc if you have a machine shop that can make a new one i would just cut it open and drill out the part. Use dremel and cut at the boot.

This thread is a good reminder for everyone to pay attention to this problem, rear brake pads last for years if bike dont run very much. Its very importan to lubricate the pin once a year. And maybe it was luck the bolt snapped for you, in my head the bolt must be heavy rustet to snapp. And good it happend now instead of when you need it for emergency brake!

Well worth spending ten minutes doing a clean and grease on this. I generally do this job at least once a year. I would never have imagined that the caliper would get so stuck to this pin though!

I must admit that i dont do it once a year, but after seeing this and found out my spare is stuck the same way i will for sure do it now.

Been working on my spare and must say that iam amazed how seized it is! Used propane, quick grip and we talk about mm it moves sideway, in our out is out of the question at this stage. Iam thinking a tool like this will come in handy for this job: Bremsestempelverktøy - Biltema

Might be well worth the investment !

Yes and remove the boot part 6, its mounted down there and its blocking for the rust remover coming down to the pin. Mine is same now, can move it sideways now. But it only moves on the threads not the pin inside, no store open today so cant buy the tool. Paint was already ruin on this so i can use the propane, good paint originally holds pretty much heat.

I see now that it wont help with the tool, there is actually no room beetween parts to help in this case! I recomend to use piston, one brake pad inside and then use a steel bar in front from side to side. Will help you a little, but then you hit the rear of the caliper(the claw).

The other suggestion is to use a pressure bench and only do pressure around the pin, you have no control before it get damaged so be careful.

Have tried all the tricks with heat and freeze, hitting and pulling...And no, not any sign it will let go. I recon the threads on this pin or mounting will be destroyed before it let go, so more pressure in bench is maybe to much. How about cutting open the outside end, then you get into the Hex.

So here what you do, drill open with 8/10mm(hex6mm). You then have acess to the hex and you can fill up with WD40 and heat up. You can hammer direct on the hex and pressure it out if you like. Use JB weld or similar to seal up after. Trust me it is almost welded in there, i had the hex in and was hanging over the caliper, wont move at all. Let it stay over night with WD40 and try again.

Im pretty sure ive seen spare pins somewhere, or in a rebuild kit. Otherwise it should be that difficult to have one made. Find a bolt that suits the threads, then weld on a piece of pipe ect to act as the pin.

My friend had one siezes aswell, he destroyed the caliper trying to take it apart.

I lube mine several times a year, together with the suspentionlinkage/swingarm ect on the bikes that doesnt have grease nipples. But they see a lot of offroad and dualsport use.

Ok, heat and boiling of wd40. Over night and 1meter extension of the hex, nothing moves. Heat up again with propane, 6mm hex in from front and big hammer. Have good support underneath with something that absorb the pressure, angle it on the side so it dont take pressure on the claw. Hit hard time after time and it will give in, but i had to hit all the way out. There is no way you get it out without drilling the front, hitting the hex from front gives perfect pressure on the pin. Dont forget to fill boot with grease, its bad engineering all the way on this solution of rear brake caliper.

http://i65.tinypic.com/119nx2v.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/14txwz4.jpg

The pin is 52mm long, 14mm with threads, 11,95mm pin size, 7,8mm threads size.

http://i65.tinypic.com/2q3d7jp.jpg

Will that pin clean enough and undamaged for re-use do you reckon?