when im disassembeling the fork further ill need a T-bar the manual says. i dont have this? is there any suggestions on how tho make one ? how long has it to be?

http://bildr.no/thumb/912799.jpeg

You can usually get away with using an airgun on the lower bolt...It spins off so fast, the rod can't spin quick enough with it and it shakes it lose.

The bar is to hold the damper rod still while you loosen the lower bolt. Without the tool, the whole thing spins inside the fork...


You can usually buy those tools for about £20.... I know you can for most other dirt bikes anyway. I ended up buying one for my DRZ because the bolt was beyond my little compressor.

Thanks to an old hand called Nid from Aldershot, there is a cheaper way.

Use a solid wooden broom handle. Shape one end with a tapered square. Like you would sharpen a pencil (same taper angle) but square. The smaller end of this taper should be about half the width you started with. (Don't go all the way to a point).

With the spring removed, locate the handle in the corresponding square hole in the fork. Then bash the handle (square shape forwards) in to the fork mercilessly. Once it is jammed in, grip the shaft with molegrips. You can then undo the bolt.

Leave the molegrips on the shaft - you will need to bash the side of them to release the handle back out of the fork.

Reassembly is the reverse...

It worked a treat on mine.

I made one for me.. it was a different shape but..

PVC pipe endings/joiners, a few screws and a iron saw blade to cut the grooves in to the shape of the nut..


Good luck with yours.. :cool4:

does anyone have a picture of their own solutions and the sqrew inside the leg?

Whats up fella, is it not working out for you?

Have you tried the above solutions/recommendations?

If you have the springs out now, with a good light behind you, you should be able to see the shape of the inverted section in the bottom of the fork tube. It's not a screw inside the tube, more of an inverted bolt head, which is why some one earlier in this thread recommends welding a bolt with the correct head, onto the end of a thin metal bar, with a "T" for a handle at the other end.

I understand you dilema if you have no w/shop book

YouTube - ‪KLR 650 Fork Service Part 1‬‏

have a look at this and mind this is a different bike and the sizes will most likely be different but the technic is much the same. At least it give you an idea, hopefully

Socks

As for bleeding the front calliper (i was having problems) somebody suggested taking off the calliper & raising it up to the level of the reservoir (brake line attached) it worked for me.

When i did my forks we "whittled" down a broom handle (shaped it in to a point) until it fitted & would not turn, again it worked for me.

Mezo.

A friend of mine made this tool for replacing the T-handle.
Its a 25x25 steelrod, grinded down a bit in the end, and you can see the part in the forks it needs to hold

http://peecee.dk/uploads/062009/5.JPG

thanks for the pointers.
im leanding a garage, therefore i want everything to be lined up so that i can do the job in an afternoon. thats why i havent opened up the fork, and then asked the questions.

i got all the air out of the brakes, finally. it seemed that the problem was air in the master cylinder. when i "tapped" the master cylinder easely while pumping it the air "flowed" out and i quickly got pressure. the brake is MUTCH smoother than before.

i have been out testdriving afther the brakejob today. the brakes are great.

when i changed the fork oil i filled 545-550 ml in eatch fork to get a stiffest possible ride for commuting. after i found the leak i was afraid that i might have caused it by filling to much oil. i drained some oil(20-30 ml) whiped off the fork and took the bike for a rugged ride. when i got home i couldnt see any signs of a leak. no oil on the legs or gators....

is it possible that i fixed the problem for now by draining some oil?

im going to do the o-ring job, but i would be nice to do it in the wintertimes instead of now...