piston ring compressor
 

So I want to fit the piston into the barrel,any tips as to squeeze the rings and put the barrel on with one hand? I can barely compress one ring with both hands :confused1:.........

Well I didnt use any ring compressor when I put my engine together. The bottom of the barrel is tapered/wider, so I just gently pushed the barrel over the piston, slightly wiggeling it around, and there it was :-D

lube it.
 

I'm with Osmund on this. You don't need or want a ring compressor on a single. Just rub a bit of light machine oil over everything and wiggle it.

I can only agree with the above just be patient

Just make sure the ring gaps are opposite each other when it all slides on. It's easy for them to slide around !

As people say... You don't need one with a single. Just wiggle and use a thin screw driver to press the rings in !

you could make a ring compressor out of a cut down baked bean tin or bigger depending on size of your piston and a jubilee clip or two joined together.

As most said a ring compressor is not essential on a single but it does make it easier to use one.

I use a thin strip of aluminum and a cable/zip tie. A bean tin has thin metal that does not always get pushed down by the cylinder, if you use aluminum it can be thicker but still easy to bend. A zip tie is 100 times easier than jubilee clips as it is easier to put on and is removed in an instant with a side cutter.

With rings some say put the gaps at 120 degrees some say 180 degrees. I am with the latter as it makes for the longest route for gas to travel. I.e. top ring and bottom ring with gaps lined up and middle ring with gap at 180 degrees to the other two.

Just my opinion though.

Cheers for the info,I ll let you know how it goes.....love the bean tin idea too:thumbup1:

Done .....went very easily just by hand ....only thing worrying me at the moment is when I took the clutch apart it spun easily and I used a rattle gun to loosen the nut but now that I have put it back together I used the engine in gear to stop it turning .....I tried to do that when taking it apart and it still spun so now I ,m worried I,ve done something wrong so I,m going to assemble the rest of the engine and and put it in the frame and see if the clutch still works by pushing it in gear and to see if the clutch still dis engages the engine .....

Options
 

With the clutch you have a few options:

1. Get a thick-ish (2-3mm) piece of copper or aluminium. A big copper coin can sometimes work and jam it in the geared drive off the bottom of the clutch basket. So that when you do up the clutch nut you lock up the clutch. You use a soft metal so that it gives a little and doesn't damage the teeth. This only works if you can get to the geared drive and if it is a gear drive and not chain.

2. Make or buy a clutch basket holding tool. This will grip the outside of the basket while still allowing you to get a socket on the clutch nut.

3. If you have some old clutch internals (the plates) that you will never use again you can bolt together a couple metal and friction plates. Use 3 or 4 of each to spread the load and to avoid damaging the basket. Pop them in the basket and do up your nut. The bolting together stops the clutch from moving.

Have used all three methods at various times, hope these make sense and are helpful.

Cheers

You sure about using metal to metal? :nono: If the screwdriver slips it is liable score the piston or rings, I'd rather use a small piece of dowel rod or better still a lolly stick.

This is what I use....
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...CLUTCHHLDR.jpg
It also worked well for holding the ignition flywheel on my lad's XR during re-assembly.:cool4:

Only once have I ever used piston ring clamps, and scratched the pistons.
So I went back to fitting them by hand, does not make much difference if a single cylinder bike or twin or for that matter a four or six cylinder car.

Thats the one have now too:thumbup1:

Should I have used loctite on the two cam chain sprocket bolts?:(