Oil brand?
 

What oil do you all run on your XT? I run Motul and Belray 10-40W, never had any problems.

In most of my fourstrokes I've run Klotz(my #1), Motorex (syn)(KTM recommends it in mine), some Yamalube(for now in the XT/ syn blend), and Honda HP4 ( syn).
I have used Mobil 1, Suzuki race synthetic , Amsoil , and Maxima. Not really had any issues with any, good change schedule is most important.

Old topic: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...gine-oil-59778 :thumbup1:

Probiker oil
 

I use this PROCYCLE Semi-Synthetic stuff in both of my XT600E's.

The best engineer I know (Klaus) told me that I should stick to semi-synthetic as opposed to full synthetic? I have heard others say full synthetic is okay too????

http://www.getgeared.co.uk/PROCYCLE_...&category=-132

It's made in GERMANY and apparently the Krouts use it a lot in their BMW's (under a different marketing name)?

If it's good enough for the best engineers in the world, it's good enough for me. :thumbup1:

Joking aside - This website is an excellent place to order goods. I have used it many times and I'm always impressed with the delivery timings. Sometimes it's here in less than 12 hours!

http://www.getgeared.co.uk/

Best thing about this top notch oil - It's not expensive at £23.00

REGULAR OIL CHANGES = Long lasting engine.

kentfallen: He is totally right on this!

I went to full synthetic oil and my gears started skipping... I'd go from 1st to 2nd and it would drop to neutral..2nd to 3rd didn't really notice as I rode mostly in those two gears (live in a small island, no highways, mostly tarmac with gravel on top) 3rd to 4th gear and it would drop back to 3rd, same as 4th to 5th!

Went back to semi-synthetic oil and the problems were gone!

I've been using Texaco 10w30 semi-synthetic for the past 2 years... haven't had any problems whatsoever!


Vando :)

Why use 10w-30 when its recomended 10w-40 from Yamaha? I think its always usefull to follow the specification that factory gives on biikes, cars and other motors, thats how the test engine in the factory.

In the hot summer (80F+),I add 15w-50 to half of my oil, it gets changed when temps are down to the 60's, my Honda takes 20w-50(as the manual states). I've used a lot of full syn and haven't had any gear slipping, if it was true motorcycle oil(made for clutches, non moly), it shouldn't cause something like that unless something is on the edge and that little bit more slippery(ness?) doesn't keep the gears engaged. The shift forks should hold the gears.

xtrock: temperatures here on the island never go below +10ºC or over +35ºC so there's no need for 10w40

jjrider: No! everything in the engine is in top notch shape! Also, the engine was only 16000 km on it when that happened and when I drained and changed the oil it stopped happening!

You have to keep in mind this is an engine built in the early 90's, even the oil seals were not made to sustain full synthetic oil!

Keep good semi-synthetic oil in your XT and she'll thank you with some very large amount of trouble free kilometers for many many years to come!



Vando ;)

10W40 is a better choice for you then because the 40 is thicker and better for your clutch if slipping.

20/50 Castrol motorcycle oil. run it hard , change it often, thumpthump

no not 20w50 thats all wrong, to thick both ways..The engine was built for 10w40 then use it!

Xtrock ,look at your manual and factory service manual, mine says in writing: Yamalube 4 cycle 20w40 type SE engine oil !! Unless the US engine "need" thicker oil.:confused1:

Ok sorry remember wrong from manual, it says 20w40 or 10w30, i use 10w40 because we have no high temp here in summer.

I can confirm the thing about our terrible weather! :stormy::rain::rain::rain::rain::rain:

This year has been so cold - still using the heating in mid June!

Weather forcast is improving...... get the leather's out boys.:Beach:

Happy and SAFE riding. :clap:

hi i use castal gp 10/40 activo minaral in my 1985 xt600 43f and have done for 5 and a half years but went yesterday to get some and was told castral are stopping making it and they had no stock . so have been looking at rock oil gamma 10/40 minaral ARE THERE ANY MORE MINARAL BRANDS IN THE UK . has anybody used this and what do you think . ive used castral oils in my bikes for 25 years so am not a happy bunny if castral are dropping this good oil .

What theee.... :confused1:

Synthetic, and fullsynthetic oils have been made and used since the 60's (used earlier than that for aircraft ect)


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Os for oilthicknes, a lot of different stuff can be used. i wouldn't go under a xxw40. The ticker the oil, the thicker the oilfilm between parts.

I use 5w40 in winter, and 10w50 in summer. Sometimes I use stuff in between, like 10w40 and sometimes 20w50 aswell.

All but one have been fulsynthetic. i just change my frictiondiscs in my clutch because the engine was given an overhaul as a precaution. The clutchplates were in spec, precisely in the middle of max/min meassures. Thats after 120.000km The oil cant be so bad afterall :scooter:

Ya , the myth that synthetic oil can be harmful to an older engine is one of those things that just keeps chugging along. The only time using synthetic can be bad is first fill on a new or rebuilt engine, then you do not use synthetic so the parts can seat(which ironically points to how good synthetic is!) . Probably many issues come from someone doing that and then thinking the oil failed.
The thing synthetic has that I like is for temp changes , it is way more viscosity stable than regular oil. That 10w @65F can be 20w @20F with regular but synthetic is maybe equivalent to 11w. I really notice it in winter when temps get to -20F, with synthetic my truck turns over fine, but with regular it barely turns and knocks (from lack of oil on startup) for quite a few seconds longer, over time that adds up to a lot of wear.

........................... the oilman has a view:-
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...er-bikes-42793

If you really must stick with mineral oil, Halfords used to have their own brand stuff; I last used it about 12 years ago, at best guess, (in a Yamaha XJ900 Diversion which consumes 1 UK gallon by the way) so it may not be on their shelves nowadays.
I recall checking the specifications on the container at that time and it was good stuff - it came in a very "mucky brown" colour plastic can which made it look very anonymous on display.

I have an old 43f xt 600 and was using 10w 40 semi , was talking to Mr Lambeth about something else and he reccomended 20w 40 or 50 for the older engines, i also checked the owners manual for the bike and the new clymer manual i got and bug**er me 'Mr Lambeth was right....... Both said 20w 40 so i got 5 litres of silkolene 20w 40 bike oil. My mate has a 96 xt600e and his manual says 10w 40 semi so i conclude that the newer bikes engines were built with semi in mind......no such thing in 1984 i guess

You are not doing anything wrong to the engine running 10W-40, remember they didnt have all the different thickness to choose from in the old days.

Newer bikes (same as cars/trucks) have tighter tolerances. Thicker oil doesn't flow into or though those spots so good and you can actually damage a motor by running too thick, especially at cold startup. If it is called for originally then the thicker is fine and MAY ( no way to prove it) be better in those engines, but probably only in hard use situations(aka racing). Newer engines, if 10w-40 is recommended, it is best to stay with it. The viscosity is one big reason why I like to use full syn, much more temp stable and flows similar whether hot or cold(think winter 10F), but regular oil will thicken up significantly in the cold and can starve areas of protection.

I'm starting to stick to 15w-40 for summer and 10w-40 for fall/ spring. In real hot months(80F +) I will top off with 20w-40, but make sure to change when temps cool down. This is in my XT600 and Honda XL 600 , both state 20w for summer in warmer temps.