Last gasp!
 

Ok, Ive checked so bloody much on the XT and getting nowhere. Ive found that the right hand exhaust valve has very little gap, if this is the problem, then I will MOT it and see what happens, if not, Im breaking the damn thing and buying a nearly new KLE.

It has loadsa new parts and would be a great basis for somebody, but to be honest, my interest has gone.


Anyone interested in a project or breker for bits gimme a shout.

Pete

which model?

Pete,
Your latest post is a bit confusing because it is completely disconnected from your earlier ones; if you can link in your earlier posts, or summarise what you have experienced or know about the problem, I reckon you will get good advice and support here!

Ok, I opened up the exhaust valves to the correct clearances, bump started it down a hill, and it goes!!!!!!!

The valves were all set, but I dunno, they must have closed up.

It's popping a bit on the overun, I dont think the exhaust is very well sealed. One of the exhaust studs snapped when refitting the exhaust. Another job to be done!

I have now fitted new relays, neutral light switch, disconnected the fuel pump and all the daft cut outs on a 3AJ, new rectifier, new plug, replaced all the joints in the ignition wiring.

I now have a good spark, a supply of petrol, (niether were great) so I take it the exhaust valve was open slightly, and drawing in air, causing the carb shooting backfires.

Any advice as to how to remove an exhaust stud without removing the head?

I might just rebuild the relationship with my Tenere after all!

Pete

You're pretty much gonna *need* to pull the head, trying to get a stud out without doing so is a painful process. Hell, it can be a painful process *without* pulling the head...

As to how you get the stud out, a lot depends on what tools you have, and how the stud is broken. If there's any of the stud left protruding, your life might be made somewhat easier. If it's flush, you *might* get it out with a fine punch and a hammer. I'd steer clear of extractors, if you snap one off in the remnants of the stud you're in for a helluva job. I've made that mistake before.

This is a good link - it's for Volvo cars <spit>, but it's alu heads and steel studs, so relevant - Exhaust

Simon

Thanks for that, Ive got about 4/5 mm protruding. I'll have a go at getting it out in situ, but if I have to, I'll drop the engine.


Pete

Pete,
I guess you will apply lots of penetrating oil and give it plenty of time to soak into the thread; then "worry" the stud, applying more oil as required.

You could get a quote for a workshop to remove it insitu using their specialist tools; depends how you value your time versus your cash!

Quite agree, if the exhaust is loose it could be causing the popping but maybe you should check the fuel inlets to ensure they are well sealed.

You've got a spark and you have fuel flowing so you can't be far away!!

Theres a bit on the Volvo link, (thanks tufty) about getting someone with a welder to heat the stud. I'll try and speak to a mate tommorow about doing that for me. The inlet manifolds certainly appear to be ok, everything seems to be sealing up nicely. (apart from when in was backfiring the carbs from the rubbers!) I cant find any splits or tears, and I've had them off to check more than once.

I dont want to put the bike into another workshop, if I can get it to go myself, I'll be much happier, I can get it to the guy with the welders house easy enough.

I'll keep you guys posted, thanks again

Pete

heat it up
 

Hi.

If you have a mate that has access too a welding torch that is the best way to get it out. Put on a small nossle and heat the stud up until iut has a dark red color. Be carefull, it´s a small stud and it will heat up fast. if you can get a small pipe wrench(knipex) or a lockplier on the end it´s usualy an easy job.
Just take care not to heat on the aluminium head,it´s very thin and it will melt away fast.
If you don´t have access to a gas torch an other option is to take an other bolt and weld it on to the stud,this will give you a good head to grip on.But since its so little sticking out of the old stud you will have to be very carefull not to make contact on the aluminium,because it will melt down as soon as you tuch it with the electrod.
The heat you get in too the stud by useing this method would probably get it loose as well.

Good luck.

The arc welder trick (resistive heating of the stud) is a clever solution and I'd be interested to see how well it works - I have 3 (intact, but 25 year old and "slightly" corroded) studs to remove from my 550's engine. No, I'm not really looking forward to it, as I'm almost certain one of the 3 will snap.

I'd probably give that (arc welder) a shot first, and see if you can't get the stud out directly. It should be non-destructive, after all, and can probably be done in-frame, but do remove the gas tank first. Gas welders are great, but on something like 5mm of stud it's very easy to slip and burn away the cylinder head, or heat the cylinder head to a point where it warps. I'd probably do the "welder to stud" then direct to the "weld a nut onto the remainder of the stud" approach. If you do that, try to leave a mil or two between the nut and the head, makes it easier to get WD-40 underneath, and also to chisel the nut off if you need to.

Last snapped stud I had was on a Fiat Panda cylinder head, ended up grinding flush to the head, drilling a tiny hole as off-centre as possible and "punching" it out after leaving it to soak in WD-40 for a couple of days. Hateful job.

Simon

You may find this interesting, encouraging reading or, there again :rolleyes2: :-

Dan's Motorcycle Stripped & Stuck Bolts

This guy's fuller advice/information can be found here:-

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...al-stuff-27640

Good luck,

i had 2 exhaust studs snap on 2 different occasions on my xt6e while removing the exhaust. Id say it's rare to snap it while installing unless the stud was correoded and weakened!. first time i was able to gring it flat, center punch it and drill it out with a 5mm drill and retap m6. turned out a good job. 2nd time, i was pulling the engine out to refurb the frame. doing it on the workbench is soo much easier as the front wheel or frame downtube aren't in you're way. Id be very surprised if the studs come out with heat/vicegrips etc. But good luck with it. If all simple fixs fail, drill and tap is the way to go.

I often find that the iron bolts seem to sieze / corrode into the magnesium alloy. This led to a couple of situations where I rounded the allen key slot in the bolt trying to undo them. A wise grey haired mechanic who happens to be my godfather cuffed me on the back of the head and showed me how to loosen them without doing this, or in fact, pulling the magnesium threads out at the same time with the bolt.

With the allen key (or in your case I presume mole grips) apply firm, but not excessive pressure while a second person taps the side, not the top, of the bolt head. After a few taps the bolt will release quite suddenly and smoothly without taking the magnesium alloy threads with it.

It's a simple trick, but one that has saved me much agro, maybe it will work for you.

I took the head off and took it to a mate whos a blacksmith. He welded a washer onto the broken stud, then welded a piece of square rod onto this. A bit of worrying with the mole grips and the stud came out. Excellent! We decided to take out the remaining studs while we were at it, to hopefully save on any stud disasters during the rebuild, a bit of heat from the gas torch, he did the old 2 nut trick and the came out without too much grief. I'm now ready to rebuild the top end, putting in 4 new exhaust studs while I'm at it. Hopefully, with the exhaust sealed up and the valves set correctly, I'll be good to go.

The exhaust valves are quite heavily coked up, which I take it is due to the engine not firing cleanly while the exhaust has been blowing. They will be cleaned up before I start the rebuild.

Pete

Excellent news, and good plan.

Where did you get your studs from?

Simon