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Charging issue?
Ok, my Xt600e engine puts out 13.5 or so volts at idle but at higher rpm the voltage drops, probably not below 13v. Haven't done a full load test as the exhaust is a 'little' loud and i have neighbours, also my ears would likely bleed.
Im thinking reg/rec throttling too much under load? Any suggestions, diagnosis or tests? Is this normal for the xt and what would normal operating temperatures for the reg/rec be? For the record all connections are cleaned up for good contact. Thanks! |
check standing voltage across battery if you have a standing voltage of above 12.5 i'd say charging system standing voltage lower than 12.5v battery is prob on its way out, the voltage on mid revs should be about 14.5volts.
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Battery isnt in great condition, holds 12.5 after charging, basic lead acid so 12.6 max. The reason i ask is that im used to a blip of the throttle causing the headlights to brighten and the opposite is true here.
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sounds like the charging system is faulty check all the wiring from the engine up to the reg/rec they sometimes rub through on the frame and also check the earths and connectors
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Sounds like the regulator/rectifier.
Voltage should increase with RPM then settle. 14.5 should be the max at a guess. |
Ok an update. Did a few tests, on a warm engine so will have to repeat cold. 1.5ohm between the 3phases. Infinite ohm between each and earth. And about 20V ac at idle between the three. No obvious damage to wiring so im guessing the reg is the problem.
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Tested the reg/rec according to the Electrosport flow chart and it checks out fine! Guess have to check higher rpm ac volts next then new battery.
Edit: is the problem using a standard lead acid battery in place of the standard Xt maintenance free version? |
the oe battery is a lead acid battery anyway so that is not an issue.
did you check the phase wiring at the reg/rec plug or just at the engine harness connector, as the wiring between the engine harness and reg/rec is where rubs on the frame. if it tests ok check all earths/ground connections all over the bike, if they are all good i'd say reg/rec. |
Get yourself a new reg/rectifier off flebay, I bought a new one a few months ago for 34euros with s/h delivered at home (Azores - Portugal).
Haven't tested it yet tho but it'll work ;) If you end up getting one and it's not that problem, you got yourself a spare! YES you'll end up sooner or later having to change it! Vando :innocent: |
I'd agree with that. I had almost identical symptoms a few weeks ago, and it was the reg/rec. They seem to go pretty regularly, so a spare wouldn't hurt. I'm cross about hearing people getting them on eBay, though - mine was GBP70 odd. Ouch.
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which ebay you go shopping at?
most of the times I get my stuff from the .COM a very few times on .CO.UK and .DE sometimes you can even look at the spanish ebay..a few little things come up once in a while ;) Vando :innocent: |
Im gona repeat my readings then test the bike with a newish battery, just to be sure, but im sure you guys are right about the reg/rec. Im a poor student so would prefer to be spend as little as possible, would a reg/rec off another bike work? I cant see why not except with regard to loads. Or is this false economy?
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Battery
If the bike is starting easily with button, then the battery if most likely good.
A battery can read 12.5VDC and be useless. To test a battery you must measure it under load. What this means is that you must draw current from it while testing with the multimeter. Easiest is to turn on your headlight to brights and have flickers on at same time. Should draw a good few watts, simply add all the bulbs wattages together to know how much. Bike should not be running at this point. Now measure the battery and see how many volts DC you get. If it drops below 11,8VDC it may be time to replace. A battery should not be discharged below 10,8VDC. Many battery shops have load test facility and will usually test for free. But you can test yourself as above. Happy testing. Remember to study in-between bike riding. |
As for the regulator/rectifier i bought 32£, here:
VOLTAGE REGULATOR for YAMAHA XT 600 E TT 600 K NEW - eBay (item 380109097873 end time Apr-06-09 16:20:53 PDT) That was the one I bought.. If you try and reach the seller perhaps he'll sell them again? I unno... Vando |
Quote:
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YES! Problem identified and soon to be solved. Tested with a healthier battery and the problem remained. Then i tried connecting wires directly from the battery to the respective outlets on the reg/rec. Bingo! 14.5v at idle, throttled down to 14.4 and stable at any higher revs lights on or off! Using the electrosport test there was decent contact between the reg/rec and battery, 0.8neg 1.4 pos, but clearly the 'correct' values are a bit optimistic. Maybe a good mod to run the charging wires direct to the battery with some heavy gauge wire, which is what Il do as soon as I have some free time! Once again, thanks for the help guys!
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HEY!! news update!!!
regulator/rectifier 33£ + shipping! UK free shipping and very cheap worldwide shipping!! USA-6.5£, Portugal 6.5£ and I guess it's 6.5£ worldwide lol VOLTAGE REGULATOR for YAMAHA XV 250 Viargo XT 600 NEW on eBay, also Yamaha, Motorcycle Parts, Motorcycle Parts Accessories, Vehicle Parts Accessories (end time 16-Jul-09 23:36:53 BST) |
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uhmm I'm a little skeptical about that mod you mention...
Remember that you're doing that voltage test without engine load...for that you'd have to be riding the bike! It could possibly kill your battery by letting to much power to her overcharging....the reg/rectifier is designed to control that voltage..... You could however, fit that cable you're talking about and adding some resistors that could keep the voltage on the exact amount that will let the battery be charged safely.. The safest way would be if you could weld a few cable terminals on those cables that will fit tightly onto the reg/rectifier contacts! Use preferably some insulated cable terminals.. we don't want to have any sparks comming out from the rear of the bike besides from the exhaust :rofl: Did you understand what I was trying to say? If not, just tell me and I'll explain it better... Vando :innocent: |
Im a little confused as to what you mean...? Let me re-explain in case you've misunderstood.
The reg/rec is connected to the alternator as usual but instead of the output of the rec/reg getting to the battery via the entire lighting system etc its a single line to the battery. The voltage is still regulated but the detection of the voltage via the regulator is more accurate due to lower voltage drop from the shorter wires without external load. Bike load when running doesnt change, thats all still connecte as normal. I've used the standard plug into the reg/rec, iv just added the positive feed to an inch of the original wire. If I've made a mistake pls let me know! |
The logic sounds good to me. Glad to see that you did not need to shell out for a battery.
Now all that remains is to fit a proper gauge cable. |
Battery didnt worry me, its a smaller nonstandard one(srx frame) so fairly cheap, its the R700 rec/reg i was sweating over! Even mcomp where over R800...
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Hello, I hope you don't mind, but I think I've got a similar problem with charging. I went for a ride with the multimeter extended to the battery and taped to the tank-top. On a long, straight road I worked through the revs and found:
Tickover - 4000rpm - 14.5V (I think good) 4000rpm - 7000rpm - 10V (I think bad) The voltage steped down suddenly, almost like a switch had been flipped between two modes. Will replacing the regulator/rectifier solve all my worldly woes? Or is my problem more likely to be elsewhere? Would the one Bacardi23 mentions do the trick? VT |
Exactly the same happened to me - different numbers but same pattern. A new reg/rec cured it, so now I have about 12.8v at idle and about 13.5v at fast idle.
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Many thanks. I'll get one ordered.
VT |
lol :) if ya get it from my link post a comment there...just to see how many get ordered :P
Vando :innocent: |
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