which bike is easy to work on?
 

first thanks for this website and all the helpfull posts and people. Im so thankfull its here.

I think Im sold on getting a used yamaha xt but am also thinking about a used f series bmw I is the bmw difficult to work on? the xt? any other suggestions? Im no mechanic but I can follow directions and I have a basic knowlege of mechanics. thanks in advance.

This Question will have Hundreds of answers depending on whom you ask.
And here is my answer
If simplicity is what you are looking for >
Nothing can match an Old bike like the
Enfield Bullet Standard (350 CC, 18 BHP)

I am sure others who have ridden this bike in and around India will vouch for the workability of this bike. I think the company has dealers in the USA too..Check out their website.
Anyway thanks for raising the question , would be interesting to see the responses to this,
------------------
Red Bull
Ride safe, ride far, ride often,,,...
http://theroyalenfieldbullet.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hari_iyer_s/my_photos

[This message has been edited by Red Bull (edited 14 February 2006).]

Old air cooled two stroke one cylindered bikes with oil mixed directly in the gas tank is probably as simple as they get... but probably not anything you want.

My mechanics teacher in junir high told us never to buy a "Screwzuki" as they were a pain to fix.

I don't know first hand, but the XT looks simple enough to me. I used to ride a Yamaha DTR which is quite similar, and it was really simple.

I concidered buing an XT myself a couple of months ago. I talked to a mechanic who told me if the choice was between an XL or an XT to go for the XT. He worked a lot on both bikes and told me that the XT was both more reliable and a better bike.

If you have adequate tools, a knowledgeable person to ask for advice/help when stuck, and an adequate work place, then I'd say go for it. Overhaul the engine and become familiar with it. Don't think that the haynes manual is enough, it aint. You also need a parts manual with exploded diarams. This will make ordering parts more easy. If the Haynes manual doesn't include it, you want to get your hands on the torque wrench settings.

I am also a novice mechanic, just starting to get my grips on things, teaching myself. I've found that taking things appart and putting them together is not that difficult. The difficult bit is diagnosing faults, worn parts, etc. To be certain that you swap or refurbish parts that need to be, and to make sure you don't waste time and money on things which are in perfect order, having someone to ask is great. Join a BBS for your model and pour your heart out, but don't expect things to go fast. You will discover new issues all the time as you go along, having to ask new questions often, each which take time to be answered.

Another thing to be aware is that there are certain repro parts which are crap, and others that are superior to original parts. Having someone to ask is key here. You don't want to be stuck in the desert with a crappy CDI and stator, only to find out that the original CDI was a faulty construction (should have gone for a repro) or that the made in India stator is really crappy (should have gone for the original).

Wheelie, I've noticed you posting "screwzuki" several times.

Have to tell you, your old teacher is absolutely wrong. Suzukis are no worse, and no better, than any other Japanese bike. They all make great models, and they all make mediocre ones.

Amenti, Read the reviews and discussions in the "Which bike" forum - there's a ton of info and opinions there!

FWIW - the XT is easier to work on than the BMW F650. The older F650's were a little easier than the newer ones. BUT you really don't have to do that much to them either.

Grant

My DR650SE is very easy to work on. Most bits are easily accessible. The same applies to the old BMW twins, except for the gear box, which unfortunately, seems to be the part that keeps breaking. Still, I've just bought one...

The oil-head boxers seem a little less accessible, plus BMW have started gluing bolts into place with thread lock. But, they appear to me more reliable and need less maintenance.

Easy to work on? The one that requires no work!

What you want is one that does not brake down. And has easy to maintain. Good luck with the quest. What one person finds reliable the next finds too much work. The other thing to consider is avaliablity of parts.

Chose the bike that best ‘fits;’ you – your physique, riding style.

Wonder what beddhist works on his DR650SE? I currently have five and they hardly ever require anything but setting the valves.
But yes they are very easy to work on and good handling and very reliable bikes too.

Like Grant I have been wondering at Wheelie's one man crusade against Suzukis. I have more than 30 bikes in my garage, and many brands are represented (BMW, Yamaha, Solex, Indian, Honda, Kawasaki, and Suzuki) and have more Suzukis than any other brand. With a workshop manual, none of them are really any more difficult than any others, except the older ones are easier than the more modern ones to work on. Without a manual, my Suzukis would be the easiest to work on. I do all my own work, for the fun of it, so maybe I'm just strange.

Regards

Nigel in NZ

------------------
"The world is a book and those who do not travel read but a page"- St Augustine

The F650 is a pain to work on I had one. The problim is the air box it needs to come out fore most work to be done on it. Then agen the F650 is not a real BMW. Thay did not build the motor, Rotex did.
The bike, Aprela did that. And a brit drew the thing up.

One sweet bike thow, look up www.f650.com the people there can find out whats wrong with the bike help you fix it faster than a USA BMW servis tech can.
A BMW tech draind the oil out of my F to do a repair that I found out wasnt needed then ran it "a few blocks" till the oil light went on It was in the shop 3 weeks till I pulled it out. Thay never figered out why the light was on. A few seconds and I did thay never put oil back in! You think a few weeks with a oil problim someone will look at the dipstick. http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/redface.gif

With any bike you are better of fixing it your self if you can.

Oil changes, the simplest things can cause the most problem. When I change oil I always leave my oil drain pan under the machine till I add oil. That way you have to run over the pan if you move the bike which will remind you of something hopefully. As far as which bike is easier to work on....I personaly get tired of bikes you have to peel apart, drain antifreeze and use special tools just to do normal service. I currently am doing the valve guides on a FJR1300 Yamaha and have the shop littered with bits and pieces and brackets and bolts. Even the worst bike to work on is still fun to ride.

hello amenti, I'm in Ky. so almost your neighbor. I rented a XT 600 for a week in Costa Rica last year and it did everythhing I asked of it, that said the gas tank is on the small side. My pick for this type bike is the KLR. Not much to look at but highly capable,near 300 mile range,big cargo cappacity,big aftermarket support and the same model has been continously made from 1987-2006. I have 3 '92 models all bought for abought $3200 total. One will be ridden to Alaska this summer,one is getting a Dnepr side car for farm duty,the last is is to be set up like the first then sold. I'm sure most any big modern single will do the job, I just choose common,cheap and redally avalable. Good luck!

------------------
ride,smile,repeat as nessasary

The only disadvantage of the KLR is the shims you need to set the valves. There's nothing readily available besides the original KLR parts.
If you plan a very long trip you should firstly set the valve clearance to the max allowed at the beginning of the trip as the KLR's valve clearance in general diminishes over time. Measure the shims and take replacement for all four shims 0.1 mm thinner than the ones fitted and you should be fine for at least 20000km.

do what I did long ago. get yourself a Jawa 350.easily serviceable with a screwdriver and a 13mm wrench.no plastic or cosmetic fins or fairings to mess around.adjusting the fully covered chain is the only duty to perform. engine bullet proof. But I guess my opinion is not valid, being a total Jawa freack my opinion is not so accuratte. If all my senses where OK i should be riding another bike instead of an old piece of Chekoslovakian crap.