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-   -   Suzuki DR650 vs BMW GS Dakar (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/which-bike/suzuki-dr650-vs-bmw-gs-26997)

J. Cadena 7 May 2007 05:05

Suzuki DR650 vs BMW GS Dakar
 
I'm planing on getting a used 650GS Dakar but I don't know if it's worth the price so I'm also considering Suzuki DR650. I'm planing some trips to Mexico and I'm concerned about the DR at high speeds. Can The DR do the same things the Dakar does in terms of speed and on dirt roads?
If I get the DR I would get it new. If I get the Dakar I would get it used but still pay more than the new DR.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the Dakar is better at high speeds because of the extra power and weight.
I'm 5'8" and I wonder if I'm too short for the Dakar.
Thank's in advance for input.

llanelli 7 May 2007 11:19

Dakar
 
I have a Dakar which I rode around Australia for 7 months with no problems at all. I am 5'9' and have a standard GS seat on it which lowers it a little, although I was OK with the original. (tip toes). I have never ridden a Dr so will not comment on it. When i looked at bikes, the seat comfort was a big consideration considering the time you will spend on the bike when touring and i don't think there is a better option than the GS for that, especially with a sheepskin on top. Only my opinion.

Lone Rider 7 May 2007 14:36

During a day when nothing goes wrong, on nice improved highways, the F650 will be a better road bike with greater weight, better fuel economy and fewer vibrations.

In general, the F650 will be more expensive to repair. Although considered as reliable, there are a few known faults with these bikes.

The DR650 is a much simpler bike without structural, mechanical or electrical faults from the factory, and is very easy to self-maintain.

You will want to add a larger fuel tank, more comfy seat and windshield for touring on a DR650.

Other than ruining a rear wheel, which was my fault, my '06 DR650 has been trouble-free for 26k miles in 8 months of ownership.

Ride the one that makes your heart soar....

FatChance 7 May 2007 19:24

Like Lone Rider, we have a '05 F650GS and a (two actually) DR650. I agree with his assessments. Were we going to Mexico, it would be on the DR650, no doubt. Simple, reliable and capable on anything we would travel on. My wife rides the F650 when we go on multi-week trips to Montana and Idaho where we mostly ride all day at 65+mph on paved roads. It has been reliable (but for some cold starting issues) and gets great gas mileage, though she wants to trade for a 1150GS for that purpose. For our trips to Moab or up in the local mountains or for playing off road anywhere, the DR650 is much superior and confidence inspiring.

vangraan 11 May 2007 23:31

I was looking around on these forums looking for some info on which bike I should use for my trip from South Africa to Russia. Do you reckon this bike
DR650SE with this fuel tank UNLIMITED DIRT - IMS PRODUCTS Fuel / Gas Tank - Suzuki DR650 - 4.9 Gallon will do the trip?

I read a lot of people reckon the Suzuki DR650 is not a bad bike for the price and the BMW Dakar is too expensive for me.

What other mods would that bike need? (Except for luggage mods of course)

I do not have any experience in buying a bike and this will be my first one actually. So any info suggestions would be great.

Lone Rider 11 May 2007 23:47

[QUOTE=vangraan;136098]...........

I read a lot of people reckon the Suzuki DR650 is not a bad bike for the price and the BMW Dakar is too expensive for me.

................QUOTE]

For the trip you desribe, I would buy the DR...even if both bikes were equally priced.

Dr650 dreadnought 12 May 2007 04:32

Great Moab shots! I missed it coming back from Colorado. Next time.
The 2 bikes are very similar and dependable I believe. The GS is good looking and I think a less tiring ride on the highway. I have the Dr, and long days takes a lot out of me. The seat has been modified every which way and still is a bench. I have an untested Airhawk pillow seat to try now. I have tried to keep up to a GS650 at >140 k/hr constant but found it tiring. The interstates are not these bikes intention anyhow.
Overall I like the air cooling of the Dr to keep things simple. Watch for base gasket weeping on pre (2002?) models. The new ones have a metal gasket. Any bike purchase is a tough choice. I have been trying to decide between a weestrom and versys and have stalemated myself.:confused1:

vangraan 12 May 2007 09:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog (Post 136103)
To read a lot about the DR650 go here:
the DR650 thread - ADVrider

Thanks was a great read. Think this bike is what I will take. Personally I don't mind the looks. Think it looks rough.

carphone 22 May 2007 15:06

BMW Parts
 
Hi all, just one small comment on the thread. Please don't make the mistake of thinking that BMWs are expensive to maintain. Any parts I have had to replace have been way cheaper than any Japanese parts I have purchased.

Mike.

Lone Rider 22 May 2007 15:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by carphone (Post 137201)
Hi all, just one small comment on the thread. Please don't make the mistake of thinking that BMWs are expensive to maintain. Any parts I have had to replace have been way cheaper than any Japanese parts I have purchased.

Mike.

What parts are those?

beddhist 22 May 2007 16:19

My DR has just gone around he clock (105000km) and no issues so far. I agree that a modified seat is a must (there is a gel seat available from Suzi in he US, but not elsewhere) and you also need a bigger tank. I have a 25l Acerbis which takes a bit of mechaniching to fit.

BMW parts may be cheaper (I don't know), but I have heard that working on the F650 is very complicated = expensive. Ask the dealers for the price of the various services to get an indication.

Lone Rider 23 May 2007 01:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog (Post 137223)
That's an interesting claim. I'd like to see a side by side list of parts and prices from the OEM MSRP...not a discount place.

And example would be:

Mirror
Plastic side panel
Piston
Handlebars
Air filter
Front fender
Front wheel (hub, rim, and spokes)

Any one care to look these up?


I'd go with 'street price', the prices we usually pay.

DR oil filters are about $5, four bucks and change.
The air filter is reused at a cost of $0.
A coil is $70
A CDI is $300
A wiring harness is $200

I have a slow connection right now and can't look up..even the weather...:)

I think the poster made a boo-boo......

tmotten 23 May 2007 03:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog (Post 137223)
That's an interesting claim. I'd like to see a side by side list of parts and prices from the OEM MSRP...not a discount place.

And example would be:

Mirror
Plastic side panel
Piston
Handlebars
Air filter
Front fender
Front wheel (hub, rim, and spokes)

Any one care to look these up?

MAX BMW Motorcycles - Parts Fiche

Can't compare bodywork though. Unpainted bodywork you could.... Dunno where the info for DR's are. Part of what I like it the availabilty of this sort of info including F650.com

jeff akins 15 Jan 2008 16:48

Niether...
 
I'd personally opt for the KLR 650. In my opinion you can't go wrong. A buddy of mine bought the DR 650 and regrets after riding my KLR. The DR seems to be a good bike, but it's small, lightweight, and very uncomfortable after hours in the saddle.
Also, you can buy ALOT of after-market products for the KLR and equip it specifically to you needs.
That's just my opinion but I feel it would be worth considering.

Frank Warner 16 Jan 2008 01:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmotten (Post 137262)
Dunno where the info for DR's are.

Because you have not looked .... and why would you?


Alpha Sports - Suzuki Motorcycle Parts Catalog
Motogrid | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts
Bar Risers, Handle bar Risers, Engine Guards, Case Guards
KienTech Engineering

And others ..

There is an active yahoo group on DR650s ..

Suzuki DR 650 Forum

Lone Rider 16 Jan 2008 01:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff akins (Post 168538)
...it's small, lightweight,.....

Relatively speaking, yes.

MotoEdde 16 Jan 2008 04:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog (Post 137260)
Thanks LR, I found a few more at Ron Ayers for the DR. Someone else will have to be trusted with looking up the BMW prices. BTW, Ron Ayers is very near MSRP price. Cheaper prices can be had with a little looking around.

Carb $330
Starter Motor $206
Frame $1,064
Muffler $388
Left bar cluster switch $66
Right bar cluster switch $52
Oil Cooler $322
Rear Brake Caliper $203
Cushion Link-Set $179
Swing Arm $686
Rider Foot Peg assembly peg $18, mountbar $45

Are these the things that frequently fail on this bike? If so...that sucks!!

If you're gonna do the analysis proper...you should compare the prices on parts that are more frequently replaced... oil filter, brake pads, voltage regulator, clutch cable, steering head bearings, thermostats, fuel filters, etc.

Comparing prices on frames, swing arm, etc. does not give you any idea on what the operating cost tend to be...

I'd love to throw the K bike comps in there!

MotoEdde 17 Jan 2008 20:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog (Post 168938)
As far as the things you've listed....yes...these are common items on any bike...but NOT failure items, but rather common service items....most of which can be purchased in any auto shop or aftermarket. So both the BMW and Suzuki owner would be paying the same price. To really compare, it's important to compare OEM items that you can NOT but aftermarket...like the fuel pump for your K75 for example. :eek3:


Things like brake pads, filters (oil,fuel and air), cables, thermostats, head bearings, most are commonly available (at least for most Jap bikes) anywhere in the world, often times in an auto parts store.

The most common failures I've heard about regards the F650 seem to center around the battery, broken shock, shock linkage, frame, and some internal motor failures. See Striking Viking, See Smelly Biker.

DR's won't go forever, but generally speaking, lead a much tougher, less maintained life than most BMW's do. They are not serviced, pampered or maintained to the same level by the majority of US owners. Yet...they still manage to return a fair service life....and all for half the price....with very few failure interuptions.

Go figure.


When I look at cost, I consider the operating cost and that includes the wear items as that is a more frequent outlay of cash for the owner. Are you telling me that an F650 oil filter can be found at Pep Boys or AutoZone? Not all BMW parts can be found that easily!

Incidentally, my fuel pump gave me 85k with 25k through some pretty severe conditions, so I can't complain too much...

But I agree, most BMW's live a pampered life, but not all;) Speaking of which...when are you heading down on your trip? If you don't do it so, I will harass you;)

Frank Warner 17 Jan 2008 23:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog (Post 168938)
it's important to compare OEM items that you can NOT but aftermarket...like the fuel pump for your K75 for example.

Avalibe here as an alternative supplier .. from a Ford car .. many more Ford dealers around teh country than BM motorcycle dealers .. and many more wrecking yards with those cars in them ..

Walkabout 18 Jan 2008 00:05

New starter button
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog (Post 137260)
Thanks LR, I found a few more at Ron Ayers for the DR. Someone else will have to be trusted with looking up the BMW prices. BTW, Ron Ayers is very near MSRP price. Cheaper prices can be had with a little looking around.

Carb $330
Starter Motor $206
Frame $1,064
Muffler $388
Left bar cluster switch $66
Right bar cluster switch $52
Oil Cooler $322
Rear Brake Caliper $203
Cushion Link-Set $179
Swing Arm $686
Rider Foot Peg assembly peg $18, mountbar $45

Well I know very well what the current cost of a new right handlebar cluster switch is on a F650GS (that's the one that contains the starter button of course, an all in one moulded piece that cannot be taken apart and repaired according to the dealer):-
This comes in at £75 (about US$150 at current rates) to the retail customer.
Thankyou sir, a credit card will do nicely!!

Alternatively:
You can short across the starter solenoid and get the bike going, once you take off all of the front fairing panels of the faux fuel tank. This includes the bits that support the indicators - about 20 torx headed screws in total - then you have to put at least the indicators back in place before being able to ride the thing. :rolleyes2:

Sorry, I can't add any more to this discussion; I've noticed it is for you guys on the other side of the world - as has been said a few times before, the DR650 is not around anymore in the UK as a new bike.
In a few months time, we should be hearing about how the new twin cyl F650GS stacks up!!

MotoEdde 18 Jan 2008 04:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Warner (Post 169116)
Avalibe here as an alternative supplier .. from a Ford car .. many more Ford dealers around teh country than BM motorcycle dealers .. and many more wrecking yards with those cars in them ..

Good point BUT to further illustrate the utility of the K75...you can stick basically any fuel pump that will put out the same pressure or more, and will accept the fuel hose sizes...which is standard automotive fuel injected hoses...

A Ford mustang fuel pump works well...Frank you know this all too well...I read your work before I took my trip...thanks again for your pioneering efforts on the K!!!

And props/curses to Molly Dog who suffered with me when the fuel pump on my K died at the end of our ride! The HUBB community is an unbelievable resource!

AliBaba 19 Jan 2008 17:27

A friend of mine modified a K a few years back, nice bike:
http://www.actiontouring.com/pic/K4.jpg

http://www.actiontouring.com/pic/K6.jpg
Sticker says "Tripple inside"

He sold the K and he has now bought a 650GS Paris Dakar. The bike has 140kkm on the clock and is in perfect shape. The topend gasket has been changed once but everything else in the engine is original. Bike is used all the year in Norway.
They are extremely durable and economic (More then 25km/l!!).


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