<very interesting thread .
I have recently seen and felt what an enduro-trend machine can do ( not everything but what I could do :rofl:) and so I can appreciate the vids' put here mostly on fast tracks with sometimes sand traces ( in Oz) .
Definitly a twin is a good solution if you have a lot of roads to make ( tested that too several times ) .
ANd with the "kit" stuff , it is a very good bike .
You opinions compared to an DL 650 well prepared . I can finf easily a good one quite cheap around here :thumbup1:
In case on a twin story of course
for pistes i will continue with the drz ( Morocco espisode 2 :D)

Nearer £7k than 6. RR level 3 with vat is 2200, plus bashplate, bars, pegs, fitting of kit.
Am currently on the cusp of going this way for my rtw next year.

Even if you are light MB, I'd go for the 120Nm sprung shock (i.e.: stiffest spring), assuming you will have panniers etc.
Then, assuming all the Tractive CB-X shocks are all delivered at the same spring preload setting, crank the ring down at least 3 full turns (add preload) before you fit it - saves a lot of faffing doing the same later in the tight space.
Important: to make further changes OTR make sure the single lock screw for the ring ends up where you can get to it to undo - i.e.: between the LHS frame rails once you've removed the LHS alloy front footrest hanger.

Jacking up the spring should put your much more accessible 3 damping settings closer to midway rather than 75% (assuming greater damping correlates with greater spring preload - not certain about this - maybe someone knows).

For racers it may be different, but IMO for a travel bike they have the accessibility of the shock settings the wrong way round: I would much rather have spring preload readily accessible and all your hi speed- low speed- rebound damping buried. Once they're set for your ride you can leave them (IME) - but modifying spring preload is regularly done as loads or terrain change.


Ditto for fork preload, btw: give the top nuts a full turn or more - easier when forks are off.

I can recommend the tubeless wire wheels too after ~3000 miles.

Fyi my bike may be at the Adventure Travel Show, Olympia, in Jan. Or/and/maybe at Excel Docklands in Feb too.

Re DL650 and all other big singles by comparison. Part of my pref for a 500 twin is the smoothness (esp at very low speed on the piste) for more or less the same power and weight and fuel economy - maybe even better economy.
A single up to 450 may be fine but IMO at 650 or more they get too vibey or lumpy at very low speed = hard on the trans and chain.

Agree, crank up preload pre-install ... BUT ...
I would think about ditching that shock altogether and swap in one with remote preload adjustment ... common feature on modern shocks and a MUST for a travel bike. Worth it to upgrade if one will fit the Honda.

You're right, getting to preload collar rings is a PITA ... then having to bash your knuckles bloody trying to knock the rings round a few turns. doh

But good advice anyway, and if ride is then too stiff/harsh, it's easier to back off the collar than going tighter. Just be sure to UNLOAD rear wheel of weight, spray WD40 (or similar) on threads ... and be patient. You're in for lots of tiny hits to rotate the preload collars a few turns back.

More preload does not equal more damping.
What cranking preload up does is put you into a firmer range sooner, it may also raise ride height depending on Link design. But actual damping rates do not change ... but things will "feel" firmer, especially at low speed. (10 to 30 mph) This is often simple way to correct geometry by raising the rear end a bit, but does not affect actual damping rates.

To change damping you would adjust compression and rebound (bump) damping adjustments. (if that shock has them?) Both are separate circuits (on most shocks).

One thing to consider ... if shock spring rate is VERY stiff then it's possible the stiff spring will overwhelm the rebound (bump) damping, especially if bike is heavily loaded and ridden on very rough tracks at speed. But if the rebound circuit is quality and offers actual adjustment you can FEEL, then all will be right and will keep bike stable and prevent "Floating" at speed or after hitting a good bump.

Compression will affect the "feel" of the shock as it reacts to hitting bumps and also needs to be set to prevent frequent bottoming out. Bottoming out once in a while (on a SEVERE hit at speed) is NORMAL and it's what you want. (you should be using up ALL your travel for best performance overall ... but always best to be operating most of the time in the upper 30% of travel)

With too much compression damping your ride can be unnesessarily harsh. When it's right, you should have stability at speed and some plushness going over rough, rocky terrain at speed. Low speed may not be ideal.

Setting all this up requires fiddling and test riding on a variety of terrain with
normal load. It's very hard to get a bike to work perfectly at walking pace and at high speed as well. But with lots of fiddling you may get close. A quality shock makes a BIG difference ... and of course perfectly set up forks as well.

Forks are the "other half" of this equation and equally important. Balance between front and rear is key. Many end up chasing their tail on this. So tackle one at a time. ... then go chase your tail! doh

:thumbup1:

I know that MD. I meant that as one increases preload setting I presume one increases at least the rebound damping too to stop it kicking back. Comp dampings not so sure. Maybe even back them off?

I do wonder if the shock could do with a slightly steeper progression profile on the RR link plates which replace the OEs. Not fully certain what I'm talking about but get the feeling a 120Nm spring should be stiffer.

You mean one would ADD rebound damping when increasing preload, yes?

Increasing preload alone won't necessarily require more rebound, at least not with standard spring in place. Test ride the bike, give suspension a try, adjust as needed.

But if you add a heavier spring, then (as I mentioned) you may need more rebound. Trial and Error thing once again. Budget shocks lack rebound quality so sometimes you have to add in more rebound for heavier spring on a loaded bike to actually feel the rebound in action. (depends on shock and it's innards). If it lacks rebound it needs a specialist to re-valve it ... and make it like an Ohlins!!

More weight means more sag, which means you're using more travel and compressing spring coils tighter ... so it can kick back harder once compressed further ... so more rebound required.


Linkage design and figuring progressive rates/geometry are WAY above my pay grade too. But if it works ... do it! Riding is ultimate test! :thumbup1:
Does the RR kit Raise the bike with a link ... or lower it? This does change rate and geometry. Do you think the change screwed it up?

You ride a lot of bikes so I'm sure you have a good feel for what good suspension feels like and what it should be and when it's bad. That's the key.

When learning suspension I'd always have more experienced (suspension wise) buddies take a ride and give feed back/advice. Slowly I learned what was what ... but it can still be a bit of a dark art and can have us spinning round chasing ghosts trying for perfection. Even the Guru's get stumped sometimes.

Let us know how the Honda's doing on your tour. Hope all is well!

bier

Don't know if the plates raise the back ~2 inches or just the longer shock. A bit of both maybe - J-Mo will know. I think John calculated it on a computer once he realised simply re-using the Honda links was not an option to do a proper job. For fully loaded travel a bit more stiffness is needed and I don't know if drawing in the 3 plate holes by a few mm may achieve that.

We did a rough mountain piste yesterday that typically beats up riders and suspension but is doable on a GS12 at a steady pace. Uphill too, which is a bit more tricky when it comes to modulating speeds. I tried to concentrate on how the suspension performed and I have to say the back is pretty much dialled in now. I could bottom it gently if I tried (launching off a hump at 30kph for example) but generally it coped well. Load is light and rear tyre is hard too (28psi) which may all affect it.

But now I'll be doing my own ride with all my winter and camping clobber, I'll need to crank the preload up one rotation: a 5-second job on a shock with an accessible adjuster knob - at least a 25-minute faff with the RR Tractive unit, but one that gets easier the more you do it. That may be why I have the impression the Hyperpro XCo shock felt better: adjusting the preload to suit the terrain or load was effortless; the 3 damping dials I never touched. But that unit cost nearly €1000 and one bloke on the last tour was buying a £1200 Tractive unit for his KTM starship. So really I think the RR shock suits the budget-oriented CB500X perfectly and anyway, the bloke from Tractive told me a remote preloader was not suited to it (too short; no room).

Front end doesn't absorb low-speed hard edged hits like embedded stones, rock steps or potholes so well, but afaik this has always long been the test of a tele fork for off-roading: swallowing the small hard hits as well as big compressions like a ditch all the while remaining firm and well damped on fast bumpy highway bends. As on some other forks I've had, I hear what I take is the sound of oil squelching through the valves and past shims - or maybe just spring creak?
RR use a full length linear spring and progressive damping with preload adjustment. All I know is last year's ~10% lighter XCo (with a UPD) had a prog spring and no adjustment or modified damping but felt better all round. Intuitively I feel a progressive fork spring would work better, but perhaps only because I can see how they work; progressive damping is less easy to visualise.

Of course, apart from the terrain and loads and rider, XCo and 500X is not a like-for-like comparison. Afaik progressive springs are made individually so cost more but from what I've read are less suited to steady-load-and-surface apps like road racing; linear springs can be made by the mile then chopped up.
Again, I see it as a price-conscious solution from RR that improves and extends and adds preload adjustment to the otherwise cheap OE front end which would have been beaten to a pulp on what we've been riding.

Like you say it's all trial and error plus compromise and budget considerations. The suspension on the XCo cost nearly half what I paid for that bike and I dare say you could easily spend twice as much on 500X suspension than RR charge.

I rode a Tornado for a few hours yesterday - a 75,000km rental that ran like new. Great little bikes with un-Jap-like long, hard suspension that eats it all up. Getting back on the 50% heavier 500X the word 'plush' came to mind.

More impressions shortly.

That's the point Molly - there isn't a shock with a remote preload adjuster that will fit the CB500X, which is why, even though we had a shock specially developed for this bike, we were not able to fit a remote preload adjuster - there is no space, particularly on the ABS equipped bikes (well, not for a hydraulic one anyway, we are still looking at the feasibility of manufacturing a mechanical cable driven worm drive).

If I might address a number of the comments between you and Chris (without trying to quote all the individual posts) to the thread in general...

As Mollydog explains, preload of the shock is essentially for setting the ride-height depending on the load carried (unladen vs. with luggage and/or a pillion etc.) and that it is the damping settings that will affect how the spring reacts under various conditions - thanks for the summary of what each adjustment will do btw. Molly...

To answer Chris - The Rally-Raid/TracTive Adventure shock is longer to give more travel, while the new linkage plates are designed to retain (as closely as possible) the original leverage geometry, so that the full length of the shock is utilised*.

*This enables the shock to work more efficiently and feel more plush than if the reverse were to happen and the ratio was changed so that less shock stroke = the same distance travelled, and why that ultimately a 1:1 ratio would be the most efficient of all.

It is interesting that Chris is suggesting a stiffer rear spring for the bike - it's not necessarily something I disagree with, but as I trust everyone will appreciate, the primary purpose of the Adventure conversion was to bestow greater rough road comfort and ability on the bike while travelling over long distances, not turn it into some sort of enduro machine.

Fundamentally, not only does soft[er] suspension help to soak up the bumps at a modest pace, but it also helps to maintain traction (and steering and braking) by allowing the wheels to follow the ground more accurately - all things we considered important on this sort of bike.

At the end of the day, this bike only has 170mm of travel at each end, so ultimate speed off-road is always going to be limited by the physical.

Interestingly, the editor of Adventure Bike Rider commented recently that the 'problem' we now have is that actually the Adventure conversion to this bike is so good, it encourages you to ride the bike far harder and faster than you might otherwise consider prudent on any other mid-size (on indeed full size) twin-cylinder 'adventure' bike - and where ultimately the limits of the suspension travel become apparent. The saving grace perhaps is that the quality of the damping means that at least when the limit of travel is reached, it is not harsh or abrupt.

Indeed, we consider it flattering that he chose to compare it to something like an XT660 which is far more dirt-bike derived, rather than our original target which was the F700GS, and to a lesser extent the [more road biased] 650 V-strom, and the venerable KLR650 of course.


As both Molly and Chris have commented, the forks on this bike - despite the revised internals - are still of a basic design, and I would add can only ever offer limited overall travel. While the Rally-Raid kit offers a huge improvement in the action and damping control compared to the OEM, it is not going to ride like a bike with a £1000+ set of forks on it.

We are currently speaking to TracTive with regard to offering some stiffer rate springs for both the front and rear of this bike, for those people who want to go harder and faster - but please be aware that is likely to reduce the feeling of plushness you get at slower speeds and in more technical terrain.

Everything is a compromise.

Jx

Thanks for added details and explanation, JMo. Was out today recce-ing routes. On the road ride here (full load) the suspension felt plush and balanced now it's been cranked up all round.

But of course I could not be arsed to back off the preload for today's unloaded day ride and paid the price with harshness as expected. Not that drastic, just tiring at the end of the day. So a mechanical remote preload sounds like a great idea. Never heard of them but just looked up an XTRIG.

Suggesting a stiffer spring was not so much to go harder and faster (last 2 fill ups 91 and 88mpg - that's how slow I am ;~) but to cope better with heavy loads on such tracks. Although I suppose that adds up to the same thing - go slow enough and it won't bottom out. My loads have been quite light on the piste - yours looked the same on TAT, JMo. But I would visualise someone with a full hard-luggage/camping set up as this kind of MoR bike (in OE form) might attract. I guess time will tell once L3s start getting properly overhanded.

Good reminder that it's only 170mm (<7") travel so again it partly comes round to easily adjustable preload - that would greatly broaden the compromise (or give that impression). Full steam ahead on that worm drive, then!

Hee hee - we'll see what we can do Chris...

I was speaking to John about this very subject earlier today, and he agrees it is something that we need to revisit and try and prioritise now since it's clear a remote adjuster would make a huge difference, especially as it is such a fiddle to reach the preload ring manually on the ABS version of the CB500X.

Watch this space as they say...

Jx

I believe there are several versions of mechanical preload adjusters on shocks.
I remember my 2002 Vstrom 1000 had such a system. KYB shock with small adjuster knob. Very useful. Used some sort of cable or worm drive I believe, can't recall exactly. (over 10 years ago now)

Space is always the issue. Ohlins have a system (on some shocks) where you use a 1/4" drive socket extension bar (8") ... just barely slips through to reach adjuster. You then crank preload up or down mechanically using your ratchet.
Very nice. (like everything Ohlins!)

Seems this system could work on most any bike if you positioned the adjuster correctly. Dunno? You need less than 1/2" opening with a clear shot to adjuster bolt.

Saw the new sand colour 500x at the nec show and it was getting lots of interest.

I thought it looked ace and if I had the 5.5grand I'd snap one up it just looks so much manageable on the rough than the bigger Africa twin yet when you sit on the bike it doesn't feel cramped just well proportioned.

Am I right in thinking Honda have actually improved the standard suspension on this years bikes?

When you look at what you get with these Honda's there is not much to touch them for the money, especially given that the MT 07 is far more road orientated.

Always good to see what Chris is riding on his travels, I bet that would have made dispatching easy back in the day Chris.beer:scooter:

As far as we are aware, the only change has been the addition of preload adjusters for the fork caps. The rest appears to be unchanged from the previous years (I had a poke around while I was there too)...

As you say, it is an excellent bike for the money - well proportioned, manageable, and if people were no so swayed by the 'bigger has to be better' mentality, for a genuine long-distance all-road (and trail) 'adventure' bike, I'd say is the perfect size?

Certainly that is why Rally-Raid have invested so much in this particular platform.

Jx

Should you feel the need*... a little something else:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...psjfigqfyz.jpg

Please note this is the pre-production version (for testing) - the final link pipe will also have a stainless-steel head shield to protect your heel/calf, and the option of a replacement pillion peg on the right hand side should you wish to carry a passenger.

Jx

*I say 'need', I mean want of course ;o)

What's the advantage over a Suzuki DL650? Seems like the CB500X with the RR kit plus the stock DL650 work out about the same price, same ground clearance, and almost the same weight.

Is it basically better quality suspension (Honda + RR) Vs more power (Suzuki) or are there other reasons that the Honda makes a better RTW bike that I'm missing?

Hi Anotherbiker - regarding the DL650 (V-Strom), you just need to park the two bikes next to each other to see the difference...

The V-strom is much longer and lower than the CB500X (with the Rally-Raid Adventure kit fitted) - in fact even the spoked-wheel XT version of the V-Strom only has similar suspension travel and ground clearance to the stock CB500X.

The shorter wheelbase of the CB500X, combined with a lower weight and lower centre of gravity makes the bike feel far more nimble than the V-Strom - in fact it feels more like a 650cc Thumper in that regard.

In comparison, the 650cc V-Strom feels like a larger GS or Triumph Tiger to ride - no bad thing of course over long distance, but far more of a handful of you are taking it more seriously off-road than a gravel trail.

The reason Rally-Raid chose the CB500X as a platform in the first place was very much because of this key attribute. It's like a 4/5ths size version of the current adventure twins (consider the comparison of something like a Yamaha Serow vs. a full on enduro bike) - it offers far more manageability for off-road conditions than any other twin, while still retaining all the key attributes of a larger bike - the fuel range, comfortable seat, wind protection, engine refinement (the CB500 engine is one of the smoothest twins out there, although I agree the Suzuki 650 V-twin is also an excellent power-plant).

Indeed the comparison with a Serow should only be taken so far, as fundamentally the CB500X doesn't sacrifice any road comfort to the larger adventure machines - it will sit at 80mph all day if wish, and was perfectly comfortable over the 1000 mile Iron-Butt I rode this summer.

Ultimately your personal choice of bike can be dictated by any number of factors - for me, quite apart from the physical benefits of having a more compact and nimble twin-cyclinder bike for off-road use, I simply feel the CB500X is a better proportioned and visually pleasing machine - yeah, even I can be that shallow sometimes!

I would also point you in the direction of my recent Trans-Am 500 ride - crossing the States twice, including the full length of the Trans-Am Trail. Even if you just look at the photos (around Moab in particular) - you'll immediately see where the CB500X excels over any other twin-cylinder adventure bike (save perhaps the KTM950 - although they come with a host of negatives including seat height, economy and general reliability) when the going gets rough, or if you are heading into the unknown.

You probably wouldn't want to be on a V-Strom here for example:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps8mlielnr.jpg

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

Been there and tried that. It's fine so long as the Wee has been dropped previously to lessen the cost of the damage and you have a good back. :innocent:

Is the Wee the better road tourer though or no real difference? I moved back to a road bike as I only ever used the off road capacity when I needed to, so wondering if you can have the cake and eat it?

Andy

Interesting...

I should say, I did have a V-Strom in the past, so know all about its good qualities as a road bike, but never took it off road.

I'm a pretty big guy and could get both feet flat on the ground on the V-Strom. Would that change your calculation here at all, or does the shorter wheelbase, slightly lower weight (I believe around 20lbs difference) and lower CG of the Honda still make all the difference?

The CB500X is actually closer to 20Kg (40+lbs) lighter than the V-Strom when they are both fully fuelled, and combined with the lower centre of gravity, this really does help - it is also very slim between the knees, which also helps off-road - particularly when standing for example.

Certainly the shorter wheelbase also has a significant effect on how the bike feels and handles both on and off-road - it feels a lot more eager and 'sporty' if you know what I mean?

note. the CB500X has a 56" wheelbase - so more similar to a sports-bike in that regard. The V-strom has a 61.4" wheelbase, so significantly longer, and longer than than many other dual-sport/adventure bikes too. That is great for stright-line stability of course, and increased cockpit space if riding two up, or if you want to fit large panniers - but the compromise is the much larger turning circle, and less agility - around town, on twisty highways or off-road.

I would add that in combination with the 19" front wheel that is part of the Rally-Raid kit, the CB pulls off the clever trick of remaining nimble while increasing stability at the same time.

Although the CB is more compact that the V-Strom, it does have excellent ergonomics for all sizes and shapes of rider, and even 6'+ riders say they find the relationship between the seat, bars and pegs very comfortable.

If you're big/tall you probably won't mind the CB500X Adventure (that is with the longer travel Rally-Raid suspension fitted) has a seat height of 34.25" (970mm) compared to the V-Strom at 32.9" (835mm) - so just under an inch and a half.

I would concede that the CB is probably not as ideal if you regularly ride two-up, especially touring (although I have carried and been a pillion on a number of occasions over shorter distances on the freeway, and it is surprisingly comfortable two-up too). However, as a solo long-distance all-terrain travel bike, I honestly believe it is nigh on perfect - and taking everything into account, I think Chris Scott would probably agree.

I'd suggest you try and get a test ride on a CB500X to see what I mean. Obviously with the Rally-Raid kit fitted it's going to be a couple of inches taller, but otherwise the dimensions are the same.

Hope that helps!

Jenny x

In that case, very interesting!

To be honest, I still think I'll probably get a big 1000cc bike (against all good advice on here... Sorry guys!! lol). But I did always think that if I ever gave in to sanity and decided on a cheaper bike for these sorts of travels I would just get another V-Strom. But now it sounds like there's perhaps a better option...

Thanks mate!

Hi Andy - as I mention above, the V-Strom will be an excellent mile-muncher, and offers a little more room - two up and with hard luggage particularly.

However, having ridden the CB500X (with a Rally-Raid kit) for many thousands of miles over this summer, I can honestly say it is exceptionally good at covering big distances, at anything close to the legal speed limit or a little beyond (ultimately it pretty much runs out of puff by 100mph - although it is geared nicely to pull keenly all the way up to that maximum, and even at 75-80mph, there is enough urge in reserve to pull out and overtake slower traffic easily enough).

For me though, it's really forte is picking those roads away from the main multi-lane highways... I had what I considered probably my best day ever on two wheels (well, on paved roads at least) riding the CB500X in the Appalachian mountains in Virginia on my way east this summer - usurping a previous epic trip to the Alps on my Ducati Monster!

At the end of the day, the CB500X (actually only 471cc) has a little less than 50hp - so you have to keep that in mind. However, the combination of a linear power delivery and well spaced gearing means it never feels anything less than lively and I find the engine really is a joy to ride - particularly if you snick it down a gear or two and use the revs above 5000rpm - you'll be surprised how eager it feels.

Some may feel the engine is a little 'bland' or at least un-characterful, but so often 'character' is used to justify what can turn out to be a tiresome trait, particularly if you're planning on riding day-in and day-out...

Someone else described [riding the CB on a long trip] perfectly recently: that more often than not the bike itself ends up fading into the background, allowing you to concentrate fully on where it is you are actually riding.

Again, I can only recommend to try and test ride one, and make up your own mind.

Jenny x

Good thread really :mchappy:
Wondering what should be the price here ( France) because the bike in this configuration is not for sale here doh.
What are the price in your countries ?
At this moment I am making up my mind about
- buying a nice second hand just runned in pegaso 650 , whic should be nice for pavement on a Russia/Georgia/Armenia and so trip and OK for the rest as i feel it, some kind of a xt i found nicer ( yamaha engine 650, 5 valves), less than 3000 euros . :innocent:and almost prepared .
- going again to Morocco mostly pistes with my DRZ ,
- or riding north by road with the B8 !!! that is a bike .

Hi ex-xt - do you mean the Honda CB500 is not available in the X version (as opposed to the F and the CBR-R model), or you mean the Rally-Raid kit?

Rally-Raid can ship all over the world (although US customers can buy direct from Giant Loop), and the Rally-Raid website has a currency converter to Euros to help you price everything.

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

Thanks Jenny,

I need to try one for size with the wife on the back (does about 250 miles a year, but is a necessary feature to consider) , but looks good to me. :thumbup1:

The power is spot on IMHO. My current 48 HP Guzzi V7 will break any UK speed limit, two up with luggage. 70 HP just cost me tyres. The CB appeals because unlike a lot of 50 HP bikes it has range, they didn't spec it like a commuter bike.

Andy

thanks jenny :mchappy:
Honda CB500F - Présentation
no "X" model in France . As I have heard around in the "bike" world , Honda is not "targeting " this market so much now !

Ah, interesting - thanks for clarifying that ex-xt and Jmi...

I guess Honda want all eyes on the new Africa Twin for the moment? (much more €€€s for them ;o)

In the meantime, the latest video and review from the UK in Brake magazine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWmke46ug78

A "2-wheeled Land Rover Defender 90" - I can go with that....

Jx

Long term report on my RR CB-X

https://adventuremotorcyclinghandboo...rallylabel.jpg

Thanks for the update Chris!
Sounds like good progress is being made. No surprise to me the 19" front is so good. Lots of bikes have gone 19F/17R, it's worked out well. If balance and geometry are adjusted from stock 17/17, (apparently it is!) the thing should turn and handle better than stock off road.

A 19" front will always give better confidence/tracking off road. Get tire pressures down a bit more and should be even better. I agree with you that 26 psi may be reason for harshness. :thumbup1:

What about a DID Dirt Star wheel? Using Bib Mouse perhaps? Not sure what sizes Dirt Star come in, just a thought. Not sure why the Bart Wheel is so heavy? But as you say, Tough is good in a travel bike. Dirt Star are really tough.

Difficult problem to fit that shock in that tight spot doh ... shame no remote preload. Maybe in future a solution will present? :innocent:

Weight gain is no surprise. We all need the guards, Barkbusters, bash plates and such.

On my DR650 I've found using lightweight pannier racks saves a few kgs. But I use throw over soft panniers too, which helps weight. (cheap ones)
When comparing the 500X RR with single dual sports (660 and others) remember both Honda's XR650L and DR650 are lighter than both Yam, Kawi, and BMW by a large margin.

My DR650 fully loaded with luggage and 5 gal. (19 lt) fuel weighed in at 430 lbs. (195 kg.) on certified transport scale. Not too bad. But it will never have the comfort and smoothness of the 500X and won't match it on longish highway rides.

Keep up the testing. :scooter:

What's next?
 

Thanks for an interesting, thoughtful review.

Your ownership has been a few months and a few thousand miles if I understand fully.
I would put that in the short term timescale.

"Long term" means you are selling and moving on to the next project bike?

The latest press review of the CB500X Adventure here in RUST magazine (UK)...

https://rustsports.s3.amazonaws.com/Rust%234.pdf

Some excellent photography too!

Jx

A short behind the scenes interview with John Mitchinson from Rally-Raid Products about the development and ethos behind the CB500X Adventure kit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3Joc1gId0Q

Plus the Rally-Raid CB500X Adventure (LEVEL 3 kit) on the Honda stand at the Vancouver Motorcycle Show this weekend - complete with Giant Loop luggage:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...psvb2v6be6.jpg

Jx

I love the last line in the interview! :D:D
This guy is brilliant! bier

What does everyone think of that GL bag hung on the back there?
I know they pay you ... but .... uh ... :thumbdown:

The GL looks a long way back.

Surely that's not the standard seat as it looks completely unuseable for a pillion. Take the pillion pegs off to save some weight.

But it does look good and I'm sure it will attract some interest.

Hi Magnon - that is the standard seat, and I can confirm it works perfectly well for a pillion, although there is a pronounced step in it as you can see.

I've found there is also plenty of room for a solo rider, although there are optional aftermarket seats/seat foams & covers available from the usual suspects if you'd prefer a taller and/or flatter seat.

The nice thing I've found about the stock bike is the flat pillion pad in combination with the OEM passenger grab handles is it provides a nice flat surface for strapping a duffle/dry bag too for example - very handy for casual luggage carrying...

The seat is also wide enough to be comfortable (certainly compared to a traditional thumper dual-sport bike) but still narrow enough to take a rack-less Giant Loop banana style bag as pictured above.

Jx

Hi Molly! - yes, he has his moments doesn't he ;o)

As for the Giant Loop bag - the yellow one in the photo above is the Great Basin (the larger of the two they make), I used the smaller (39L) Coyote on my trip last year:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...psssb6kxfa.jpg

Which I found sufficient capacity for everything I needed to carry (see the ride report here for more info) - basically this included all my spare clothes, a pair of sandals and a lightweight camping set-up.

The tail bag (also Giant Loop) contained my tools and puncture kit - a 12v pump was under the seat along with some jumper cables - and I had a Camel-bak that expanded to give 15L of cargo space for food and daily essentials.

Regardless of any association with Giant Loop (to clarify, I work with Rally-Raid in the UK, Giant Loop are the US distributor), I actually really like their system of luggage.

In the past I've used the Wolfman Beta duffle for travelling on my XR, and a couple of Ortlieb dry bag/duffles on the rear seat of my Tenere - and I've been happy with all of them - although the Wolfman Beta is not a waterproof bag, which is why that tended to be used just for summer jaunts in Europe.

I will say, the Coyote fits particularly well on the CB500X (and also on a KTM 690 which I've also ridden with that bag) - it's really easy to take on and off each morning and evening, and can be easily accessed when it's on the bike.

It also keeps the weight in a nice place so as not to encroach on your riding - and this is particularly noticeable when off-road - which is what that style of bag was originally designed for of course.

There are a couple of issues I found with the bag longer-term... the first is that the main zipper can sometimes be difficult to do up, especially if it's been filled with dust and or the bag is packed so that the zip itself is puckered slightly. I will say however that the zip (and stitching) is exceptionally strong - it never once gave me cause for concern even when I was forcing it!

The other thing is the main bag itself is not 100% waterPROOF (Giant Loop do point this out btw.), due to the stitched method of construction.

I will say I found it to be very very water-resistant on the whole, but in a torrential downpour (of which there were a few), it can start to leak around the bottom corners - while the storm flap over the zip I found did a very good job of not leaking.

Giant Loop also include a set of 3 internal dry bags which are guaranteed waterproof, and these also help you to pack the interior in a modular fashion - I find it works well, although personally I supplemented the supplied dry bags with my own system of smaller colour-coded bags which is my preference.

So, personally I've found this set-up works very well indeed for the kind of lightweight travel-touring (with a fair proportion of off-road and unknown trail riding thrown in).

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

That smaller GL is much better, suits the scale of things, not so oversized.:thumbup1:

I guess as a "Throw & Go" bag it's good. Love the inner storage bag color coding idea for staying organized. A must.

Friends used early GL's with NO inner stuff bags ... they took bloody forever to find anything in that big black hole ... and took them a half hour each morning to strap the thing back onto the bike. Was 1st use of the GL for them.

I don't want to continually remove and remount my bags, prefer to just OPEN, grap inner bags and go. In the AM, you need only stuff your stuff bags back in the GL (or whatever).

I see a perfect gap on that bike where nice side panniers might fit? I prefer smallish panniers, sat low and forward, something like Colebatch's ADV Spec ones.

Might lower CG a bit, easier to get onto/off the bike. I think I saw a pic of one your CB500's with panniers somewhere? Also important (to me) that tail bag does not interfere with side pannier access and vice versa.

Keep up the excellent work on this project! bier

PS: any progress on getting just a bit more HP out of that engine? I love the excellent economy ... but just a few extra HP would be welcome. Any simple/cheap or free ideas to extract a bit more?

Hi Molly - thanks for your kind words!

Here's a/the photo of the CB500X with soft panniers on:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...psfifkv0hc.jpg

Again, these are Giant Loop Siskyou's, which we found were the perfect hight for the CB500 (particularly on the exhaust side) tucking in neatly above the silencer, and keeping the weight low and forward as you say - I believe the Adventure Spec panniers are slightly deeper, so may not fit quite so well?

With regard to the banana style of bag Giant Loop make - their Coyote is very simple to fit on and off (if you did want to carry the whole thing over your shoulder inside a hotel room for example) - it has two two hooks underneath that fit around the edge of a dirtbike rear fender, or lip of a seat - and in the case of the CB500X particularly, Rally Raid make a pair of brackets that replace the OEM passenger grab handles (the 'Solo' luggage brackets), which are prefect to slide these hooks onto...

Then there are just a pair of straps that run forward from the base of the bag to a point either on the footrest hanger or the subframe...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...s04eanqzg.jpeg
photo. you can just see the forward straps here that loop round the subframe rail above the pillion footrest hanger.

It really is very secure in use, and totally unobtrusive - leaving the complete rider seat area free on the CB500X.

As you suggest though, you do have to high kick (or McGregor goose-step) to get on and off mind you ;o)

Jx

ps. There doesn't really seem to be a consensus regarding getting more power out of the CB500 engine - certainly not without compromising the tractability and fuel economy. I'm sure you could put a free-er flowing air filter and exhaust on it, and perhaps a power commander to tweak things up a bit, but the gains are going to be modest at best.

Fortunately, the bike feels a lot more perky to ride than it's on-paper spec would suggest, and honestly I haven't heard anyone who actually owns one saying they desperately crave more power than the bike already has...

Re what the discussion above regarding a replacement/free-r flowing air filter...

It's worth pointing out that this is the OEM 'dry' air filter from the bike that John rode 6500kms across the Simpson Desert in Australia:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...psstyd6ezc.jpg

Looks pretty gummed up eh? - until you realise that nothing passed through the filter at all:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...pseulgdfnd.jpg

... it was still totally clean on the engine side.

Dave Darcy said that all the bikes that had oiled type air filters could not be kept as clean as the OEM paper filter that the CB was running - worth keeping in mind if you're considering chasing a couple of extra HP... I know which I would prefer!

Jx

I really didn't look at the photo properly and wrongly assumed that the Giant Loop was sitting on a rack behind the seat. Have to say it looks much more purposeful with the Coyote as per your photo.

Looks good! On some bikes the seal of the filter pod onto throttle body can sometimes be insecure or loosen allowing dirt to pass. So, once apart, take care to put it back correctly, fully seated and tight. :thumbup1:

On the Vstrom, the engine would sometimes BACK FIRE ... blowing the air filter pods right off the throttle bodies. doh

Another note from my Vstrom days: (also uses a paper filter as standard)
If paper air filter gets wet ... it is not a good thing. Looks like the Honda one is well protected .. but if you have a tip over in deep water, could be a problem?
The paper just sort of dissolves, turns to mush.

Thousands of racers have used oiled foam filters for decades. If done right and cleaned once in a while, they do well. How many Dakar or Desert racers use a paper air filter?
If your guys got dirt leakage then maybe they made mistakes mounting? No oil, or ...
Dirt bike guys put a small bead of grease along the sealing surface of foam filter to air box contact. Once secure and mounted correctly, becomes pretty dust proof if filter is lightly oiled.

In dusty conditions I use "Filter Skins" over filter and just pull off dirty skin and add another as needed. Not bad. Saved me on several super dusty AMA Enduros I rode. But YES, foam filter leak once they are totally clogged up.
bier (I try not to let that happen! :smartass:)

Hi Molly - yes, the intake for the CB500X is pretty well protected - there is a small snorkel up under the seat, facing the right-hand side panel (sort of by your thigh) - so as you surmise, you'd really have to submerge the bike on it's side to get water in there.

The filter also appears to seat very well inside the air-box itself - the only downside is the cover is held on with four cross-head screws, the lower pair of which are also rather difficult to get to, even once you've removed the battery.


I know what you mean regarding traditional oiled foam filters - that is what I use on my XR (and other rally bikes), along with all the hints and tips you suggest (grease around the filter seat, filter skins as required) and most importantly regular changes and cleaning.

I have also used a K&N on my XR650R in the past, and also had good results from the similar DNA drum style filters on my 660 Tenere (compared to the dry paper OEM filter on the Tenere).

The stock paper Honda CB500 filter is certainly impressive and reassuring though!

Jx

This is the thread I was looking for a while. :thumbup1:

But, I would like to hear where a "original" CB500X, before RR, stands comparing to VStrom 650? Both just out of a store. With an accent on touring, long distance rides...

I have 1998 ST1100 and after I finished couple solo long weekend rides I started thinking about a second bike. My reasons are probably identical to many others: I don’t want to stop at the end of a road and turn around because my ST hates gravel/unpaved roads; and, when I drop my bike, that I don’t need to unload everything to be able to pick it up. Or, even worse, wait for somebody to help me to pick up my bike. I can pick up ST, I did it. Couple times. But it also happened once I couldn't because she was down the slope.
I think I need kinda 80:20 bike. For two up, or riding with "touring" friends, or commuting (120 miles a day, interstates and/or highways) I would use my ST. For long weekends and week-long trips (especially solo trips) I would rather use smaller, more off-road friendly (but not necessary dirt road friendly), bike.

Thanks.

Hi Afan - I have ridden quite a few thousand miles on both the stock bike and the Rally-Raid kitted version, so hopefully this will help...

First up, the CB500X is a 471cc twin making 47hp, so it won't have quite the same grunt as the 650cc V-Strom (67bhp), but still the CB makes a very good case for itself - the gearing is well spaced and the fuelling is very smooth from tick-over to the redline and the power delivery is very linear... You can cruise all day at 75-80mph if needs be, with another 10-15mph for over taking, although it does run out of puff at about 100mph or so.

Certainly the CB500X feels much more nimble than the V-Strom - it is shorter (4" shorter wheelbase) and more compact, and basically feels far more eager to turn in, and flick-flack around on twisty roads. It's more like a supermoto in that regard, but at the same time, the CB is also very stable at speed - I rode an Iron-Butt on one last year, so it has the long-distance legs if you need it to.

I imagine the V-Strom would be a little more comfortable if you want to take a passenger regularly - not that the CB is bad, but the seat/tail is quite short in comparison (sharing the subframe with the CB-F and CBR-R model too of course). It is however very strong, and perfectly capable of carrying a passenger and luggage as needs be - loads of options out there for hard or soft luggage. Again, I've carried a passenger on the freeway on a number of occasions (70-80mph again) and never found the bike wanting - it really is very impressive for such a relatively small engine, and really smooth at all revs.

Certainly I would say it is near perfect as a solo travel bike, size and weight wise.

Hope that helps - do try and get a ride on one, I've never met anyone who hasn't been impressed by it!

Jx

I think the standard CB-X would be fine, or at least more confidence inspiring than an ST11 (had to look that one up, but largely as I thought).
Much would depend on your weight and how much load you're carrying, even at low off road speeds. The OE suspension is pretty basic - especially the front - and the whole bike would be much improved by an inexpensive spring makeover which RR and I'm sure others do. If you're light you may well get away with it.

Both bikes would be good, but IMO for the use you've described the V-Strom has a stock CB500X beat. However, I've never ridden the 500X but have spent thousands of miles on the Wee Strom and owned a V-Strom 1000 for years, which is identical in many ways.

A few points to consider:
1. V-Strom makes about 66 HP at the rear wheel (measured). The CB dyno's at 45 HP, rear wheel.
A 21 HP deficit is H U G E. You will feel it, especially coming off the might ST1100.

2. The V-Strom comes standard with a 19" front wheel. CB a 17". The CB will have a wide road tire that is not so happy on dirt or gravel roads. The 19" of the Vstrom can be fitted with a TKC80 knobby and handles mild dirt/gravel wonderfully. Lots more confidence compared to riding on a 17" front. IMO, this is the biggest advantage of the Vstrom. Much better feel/control on tight/technical and wet back roads, dirt and gravel roads.

3. Comfort. The Vstrom gives you more room than the CB and the stock seat is quite good. Good leg room for tall person. There is also more room for luggage and a pillion, more weight capacity.

4. The CB rules fuel economy but the CB has a smaller tank so I believe range is about the same? (about 220 on Vstrom, not sure on CB but I read they do 60 MPG but smaller 4.5 US Gallon tank vs. Vstrom's 5.8 US Gallon tank)

5. Weight: CB500X claimed dry weight: 402 lbs.
V-Strom 650 dry weight: 427 lbs.

Wet weights will add roughly 50 lbs. on both bikes.

I have had a go on both of these bikes as rentals in Thailand. Both times I rented for 4-5 days and rode approx 2000 kms on each of those bikes. The V-Strom was the new ADV model. Both were relatively stock.

Actually theyre quite similar. Both two cylindred fuel injected and fuel efficient bikes with quite a linear power deliverance up through the rpms.

The V-Strom is bigger and stronger though and thus have more advantages on road, more power, more space when carrying a pillion and luggage and more comfort. More stable as it has 4 inches more distance between wheelbase. But the Honda is quite stable too. The seat on the V-Strom is better than the Honda seat but not as good as it looked.

None of the bikes - with stock tyres and with stock equipment - would I like to take off road except from a ok gravel road. The Honda would probably be be better just because its lighter and has a shorter wheelbase.

The suspension felt better on the V-Strom although not plush. On the Honda it felt simple - almost bad. The stock tyres might fool me a bit though.

Both bikes were exeptionally lean on fuel consumption. The Honda I rode 540 kms on one tank and refuelled 16,3 liters which gives approx 33 kms pr liter.
And the Suzuki I refuelled 17,1 liter after 450 kms which gives 26,3 km pr liter and that was with a pillion. Exellent on both bikes but Honda would win the range though.

Both lacked a bit in the "fun factor" department, maybe the V-Strom lacked more here.

Just my 5 cents though...

In reply to the points raised above:

1. Yes the power difference between the two bikes is significant, but that is because the V-Strom is almost 200ccs bigger. As I mentioned above, the CB skips along very nicely with the power it does have. I'd suggest anyone coming from a larger capacity bike needs to ride one to to feel if that performance is sufficient for your needs.

2. Continental make the TKC80 in a dedicated 17" front size too. I would agree that ultimately for off-road use a larger diameter would be preferable (which is why the Rally-Raid kit uses a 19" front of course), but for general paved, dirt road and trail use, the 17" TKC does surprisingly well, as many owners will attest.

For info, here are a couple of videos of the stock bike off-road:

Straight out of the crate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xu9xNEFLMqw

This one has a skidplate and more aggressive rear tyre fitted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WjqAMoCKnY


3. The V-Strom is indeed a bigger bike all round. The CB500X however is also very comfortable over long distances.

4. The CB500X regularly achives between 250 and even 300 miles from a tank. It is very economic with some riders reporting as high as 70mpg (US).

5. The wet weight of the CB500X is 430lbs, fully fuelled.

My suggestion to Afan would be to try both bikes, and see which fits your needs the best.

Jx

Front mud guard clearance
 

Is there a way to raise the front fender/mud guard on the RR version of the CB 500?


The close spacing between the guard and wheel looks like a perfect opportunity for mud buildup - which is a huge hassle.

Hi Bain - unfortunately there is not a lot of room under the lower triple-clamp for a high-fender to clear the radiator - or to clear the small beak under the headlight.

Furthermore, if you have an ABS version of this bike, the front brake hose routing (via the rigid line from the ABS pump) is directly under the lower triple-clamp, so you can't fit a high fender there at all without it fouling.

We did experiment with a Polisport supermoto fender initially, but it looked rubbish to be honest.

Ultimately because the bike has a large full-width radiator, we felt the low rallye style fender offered better protection, and also complimented the original styling of the bike better.

for info. the Rally-Raid low fender is mounted around an inch higher than the tyre (with a TKC80 fitted) - offering good clearance in all but really sticky muddy conditions. For example, during my 12,000+ mile Trans-Am 500 ride last summer, I only ended up having to remove the fender a couple of times when things got really bad in Mississippi and Oklahoma, otherwise it turned out there was plenty of clearance...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...psjvpoe7hr.jpg

...fortunately it is a 2 minute job to remove and replace the low fender with just a 5mm allen key and 8mm wrench.

It actually looks kinda cool with no front fender at all - but it does mean the engine and radiator get covered with mud.

Hope that helps!

Jenny x

Hi Jenny,




Thank you for the detailed, thoughtful reply. With a pic no less!


-Mike

There is a detailed review of the Rally-Raid CB500X Adventure and a comparison test with the KLR here on ADVpulse:

Rally Raid CB500X Adventure First Ride - ADV Pulse

Jx

Also a feature in the new April issue of RiDE mag.

Just a quick heads-up... Rally-Raid will be at the UK HUBB event in June this year, with their latest 2016 model CB500X Adventure in Heritage colours - plus a second demo bike available over the weekend...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...sjmofbs1f.jpeg

I also hope to be at the HUBB in California later this summer (Well September is still summer in California ;o) on my own version of this bike - and for those who simply can't wait, we'll also have a handful of CB500Xs at Overland Expo West (AZ) in May...

In the meantime, the first public showing of this brand new bike will be at the Ace Cafe Adventure bike day on 20th March in London UK.

Hope to see you somewhere along the way!

Jenny x

New Ride CB500X.
 

http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/P1100827.jpg



http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...age.jpg3_3.jpg



http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...age.jpg1_3.jpg



http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...age.jpg5_2.jpg


Having spent four years travelling around the world on a BMW R100gspd, I realised you don't need such a big heavy bike, thus my new ride, honda CB500x.

Interesting alternative to the Rally Raid route.

Just realised we met Ham46 in Islamabad in 2008, just after they did the Marriot.

There he is thinking "One day Honda will bring out a nice <200kg 500 twin that does 90mpg…"

I totally agree - the CB500X certainly is the sweet-spot, particularly for the solo rider...

During a rare appearance in front of a camera, I said much the same thing at the Ace Cafe Overland Day recently: video here, and it's an ethos we all share together with our partners Giant Loop in the USA...

Behind the scenes Adventure Rider Radio interview: audio here.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...s5c1fwhvc.jpeg

I can't wait to get back to the US and build my own version of the Heritage edition based on my 2014 model.

Jx

Hi, folks. I'm considering seriously to sell my Honda Integra (wich is obviously not able to be an RTW bike and go for a cb500x. I have a question to you, ham46: wich upgrades have you made in your bike? I see stock wheels on the pic. Also, for Jx, I visited the RR webpage and seems to be no longer available (at this moment) the stage 3 wheels. I will use the bike for world trip, aprox major part of those milleage will be on tarmac (asphalt, good or bad) and perhaps 20% on off-road only 5% of this very bad condition. Then, as I am not an off-road rider (no good skills) but an "adventure rider" with some asphalt skills, perhaps is more important to me to have tubeless tyres, due to its easy fit when puncture, and with tubes you need to do an extra job to repair the think. What do you think about this factor, and, being out of topic (please don't laught out loud): I have a rented flat that gives me 400/500 euros per month. Do you think this is enough to travel almost to Thailand by tent and sleeping bag (I am vegetarian)? I choose this bike 1st for the fuel consumption, that is near the half of the travel cost. Sorry for my bad english.

Hi, Ham46. Do you have stock wheels?

Hi Tosko, mods to my bike, had the seat made higher by 2 inches and reshaped, designed and had custom made the luggage racks, engine sub-frame/guard and crashbars, Wilbers custom built suspension to my weight/s, solo/rider-pillion/rider/pillion/luggage, with hydralic adjustable pre-load on rear manual on front, barkbuster handguards, better quality chain with 16 tooth front sprocket, spotlights (more for safety here in Thailand), just working on screen bracket currently, Mitas e07 rear, Tck80 front tyres and stock wheels. Hope this helps you with your thoughts! Oh and SW motech lowered footpegs!

Thanks a lot for your quick answer! Are you in Thailand for something or are you from Thailand? Have you readed my doubts about the money to do this kind of trip? Please, PM me to don't disturb this thread. Thanks in advance, Ham46.

Tosko, on your budget, I rented my house out in the Uk, I got around £650 per month, I used this to travel around the world from 2008-2012, on an old Bmw r100gspd, so using the 500x would have halved my fuel bill, going to Thailand was easy with only the flight cost from Nepal the Thailand, which I used additional savings (as with all my flights), if you get out of Europe quickly you money goes along way, till you hit Australia if you go that far. Camping is hard in some countries, eg: most parts of India, to many people! But guest houses cheap.
Good luck with your planning.
Graham.
After my adventure I moved to Thailand, now teaching under privileged children in Lamphun.

Hi Tosko -

To explain: currently Rally Raid are commissioning a new CNC lathe to machine their hubs more quickly and efficiently in future, bring the current lead/wait time on their spoked wheel set down significantly.

They have chose to postpone orders for a couple of weeks to ensure they don't end up with a huge back-log of orders before the new machine is up and running again.

With regard to the % use you envisage, it would not be essential to have the 17/19" spoked wheels fitted by any means; however, in combination with the +2" longer travel suspension that encompasses the complete LEVEL 3 kit, you would have much more comfortable and genuinely capable all-terrain bike than it is as standard, that is for sure.

The weakest part of the stock CB500X is it's basic and rather harsh suspension. Rally Raid also offer upgraded front and rear components in standard travel length too (LEVEL 1) - available individually front and rear or as a pair, so that would be my first recommendation, particularly if you don't want to increase the seat height and don't feel the need for any extra ground clearance.

The stock cast 17" aluminium wheels would be perfectly fine for the sort of riding you describe - just fit some more all-terrain tread pattern tyres and you ought to feel a lot more confident on broken roads and unpaved trails.

I really would fit a decent engine guard to the CB500X too - particularly if you retain the standard ride-height/ground clearance - as the sump is very vulnerable to damage otherwise.

Hope that helps - whatever you decide, they really are a great and fun bike, whether modified or stock.

Jenny x

ps. with regard to tubeless vs. tubed tyres, without going into every detail (there are well documented pros and cons for both) - regardless of how you chose to contain the air, ultimately, if you chose a quality tyre, then fortunately the occurence of a puncture is relatively rare anyway - especially when you consider how many thousands of miles ridden.

note. if the puncture you do receive in a tubeless tyre cannot be plugged successfully, then you're going to have to remove the tyre and fit a tube anyway - and this can prove more difficult with tubeless tyres on tubeless rims.

Jenny and Ham, your gentile answers are such a treasure to me. It's a joy to get your acknowledgment and experience. Thank you very much for give me your time. bier

Anyone know if the Rally Raid kit works on the CB400X, which is sold in Japan, Singapore, and some other Asian markets?
We don't get the 500 here in Japan.
I heard that the springs and dampers differ between the two models, but most non-engine parts are the same.

Hi Chris - there is no reason why you cannot fit the Rally Raid kit (both the LEVEL 1 standard travel or the LEVEL 3 +50mm longer-travel kit) to the CB400X models - they are physically both the same bikes, and the Rally Raid suspension completely replaces the front and rear OEM components anyway.

Hope that clarifies things...

Jenny x

Thanks Jenny
Now I just need to get the bike and I can get started on a conversion...

Yes I used for 5 months Thailand / Laos after trying many others bikes it was excellent
Safe riding
Paul

Hi, Graham. I have the CB500X nowbier. Very satisfied with the purchase. I have installed the central holder, panniers and topcase, also a cigarette plug for connecting devices and a Tomtom gps. Do you have FB or email?

A very nice bike.
 

I have done over 20000 km on my 2015 mod.500x,Two times from Norway to Venedig,and ofcourse,the alps.No problem to sit on it for 400 km trips,or more,on a day,the seat is very good.Very economic to drive also,about one litre fuel,brings me 30 km.One up and with a lot of luggage.Have had no problems,all all with the bike.:thumbup1:

Hi everyone,

just a quick summary of where I come from before I ask my questions:
I am 25 years old, from Germany (which makes this RR conversion a PITA), and my love for motorcycle riding was lit during my voluntary year in Uganda from 2011-2012. Some of the discussions regarding 125s and 155s really made me nostalgic :). Anyways my first bike was a 2001 BMW F 650 GS because it has been a dream ever since to discover the world an the peoples within it. So it seemed logical to buy a bike that could handle a variety of situations and conditions. Unfortunately the thumper really did not impress me on long road trips through Germany and Europe. Due to the vibrations my arms and legs went numb after an hour or so. So I was on the lookout for another bike (the CB 500 X was the other contendor for my first bike, but couldnt afford a new one - there were no used ones in 2013). Since then I watched every Youtube-video from Blancolirio and any video that remotely handled the subject of the CB 500X. Basically thats going to be the next bike in the following year. Never the less there are some questions I'd like to ask the community. They are noobie questions, yet I regard them as worth it to consider:

Firstly: Do you think the Level 1b Kit is woth the while? My skills are not really developed. This is one reason why the 500X makes sense, since I can improve my riding skills. So many other people want the fastes available bike even though it might not make sense to start on these huge bikes... So the off-beaten paths id really take are gravel roads and maybe some forest roads. Are those 17" wired wheels acceptable in these conditions? Also I am 167cm on a good day, so the huge 19" conversion is quite intimidating to me... Or will I regret that choice soon and have to invest in yet another upgrade, the level 3 upgrade?

Secondly concerning hard-luggage: The way id like to ride in the near future (the next 2 years) is mainly to discover places. That includes some odd city-touring with the occasional stop to visit an interesting site. So my thoughts are that an aluminium-pannier is the better choice for luggage to discourage thiefs. What's your take on that? Blancolirio says that the Giantloop bags, or the Siskyou panniers, are all that you need, which is true, but only if you do not leave the bike over night or for a couple of hours in city centers... Or would it suffice to get one of those metel fishnet security think that you can wrap around your luggage?

Thirdly: Am I getting it right, that with your fork clamps you can install the level 2 Suspention kit (with additional 2") but still maintain the original ride height? Does that mean it is also possible to buy those and just increase the ride height about 1" due to my limited height?


Tank you for sharing your expertise and time.

Greetings

Alex

afaict, Level 1b is purely a suspension upgrade and is bound to improve the CB-X on road and trail. I would not bother fitting same sized but spoked (wired) wheels (is that what you mean?). Stick with the original tubeless alloy and spend you money on the suspension first. I believe the fork kit has been improved still further from the version I had.
On a bike this size 19" front is best all round size for road and gravel but the right tyres on a 17 front can make a big difference off road.

Before you spend any of this money, run a CB-X for a while first and make sure its the bike for you regards height and weight. It will definitely cure your vibration issues with big singles.

For the reasons you mention, hard luggage would be better in European cities.

Third Q - don't know.

My CB-X pages

Hi Alex - thank you for your enthusiasm, the CB500X is a great bike, you won't be dissappointed!

To answer your questions regarding the Rally Raid kit/s and options:

1. The LEVEL 1b kit offers fully adjustable front and rear suspension (note. from 2017 onwards, this will include the new Fork Cartridges, which have externally adjustable compression and rebound damping, along with preload) - while the rear shock will continue to feature high and low speed compression damping, plus rebound and preload, and will now have the option of a hydraulic remote preload adjuster too, again, from the 2017 production onwards.

In comparison, the current LEVEL 1 suspension offers a similar build and overall suspension quality, but without the individual damping adjustment - the adjuster is a combined clicker, that controls rebound and compression in proportion to each other.

Basically, the standard LEVEL 1 suspension is a huge improvement over the stock set-up. You only need the further control of the individual adjusters that the 1b shock (and new fork cartridges) offer if you wish to further tailor your ride to specific conditions. Personally I'd take advantage of the great price on the regular LEVEL 1 kit at the moment.


2. The 17" front spoked wheel is built to exactly the same standards as our 19" front, so it is certainly just as strong. The only limitation is the smaller diameter (and proportionally wider tyre) that can make directional stability less positive in loose sandy or muddy conditions... the gyroscopic force of the larger [19"] diameter front wheel also helps with stability on-road and on rough piste type desert tracks and trails, especially at higher speeds...

However, if you are concerned about overall seat-height on the bike but want stronger wheels that the stock cast aluminium ones, then the 17" front and rear Rally Raid wheels are an excellent option. My friend Lisa just spent a week riding exactly the same trails as I did with her 17" front wheel and she found the bike very manageable and stable, you just had to take a little more care and ride accordingly.


3. Personally we feel the longer travel (+2"/50mm) suspension of the LEVEL 2 and 3 conversions is the optimum for this size bike, and certainly the bike is very capable indeed in LEVEL 3 specification. However, we are aware that a number of people choose the CB500X because of it's lower seat height, so if you are more comfortable at the standard ride-height, you'll be more confident, and that is the main thing when tackling unfamiliar terrain.

Fortunately, all the Rally Raid parts are bolt-on bolt-off, and no modification to the bike is required - so ultimately you can always sell your LEVEL 1 kit on if you ever decide to take you bike to the LEVEL 2/3 specification.


4. The LEVEL 2 (longer travel) suspension does come with a new triple clamp, but this is primarily to achieve the correct ride height front and rear, and to provide sufficient clearance for the larger 19" front wheel when fitted. While you could slide the fork legs through the triple clamps to the same hight as a LEVEL 1 bike if you kept the 17" front wheel size, the rear of the bike would still be 50mm higher, which would mess up the handling significantly.

Basically you can't have the longer travel suspension without the corresponding increase in seat height.


With regard to hard luggage - personally we feel the extra weight and bulk of such items undoes everything we have tried to achieve in keeping the size and weight of this bike small. However, I would concede that for general touring riding, and especially when visiting cities - having solid lockable luggage can be beneficial...

There are any number of pannier frames and hard boxes out there by the usual suspects - just be aware that the CB500X is only about 4/5ths (or 7/8ths) the size of the larger twin-cylinder adventure bikes [and has a short tail section too] so try to chose boxes that are physically in proportion to the bike - something around 35L a side is really the absolute maximum.

Personally I like the Caribou Cases system (from the USA) that uses Pelican cases as the boxes themselves - these are virtually indestructible plastic cases that are properly waterproof (typically used for transporting camera and other electronic equipment) and come in a range of sizes and options. If you're on a budget, you can always buy some pannier frames from a 3rd party and mount some Pelican Cases yourself.

I have never felt the need to use one of those metal security mesh nets over my soft bags, but typically I tend to plan any visits to tourist attractions to coincide with where I can remove my soft Coyote bag and leave it somewhere safe (such as inside a hotel).

Hope that helps - good luck with your new bike purchase, and feel free to ask any further questions about the Rally Raid options here, or over on the dedicated Vendor thread on the ADVrider forum here.

Jenny x

Well I guess it is the other way around: I'd like to thank you for inspiring and giving confidence. On Most RTW shows or blogs you find these huge adventurebikes, which gives the impression that other options might be valid but a huge hassle none the less.

Yeah you are right: Since my scope is not to ride these single tracks and canyions yet (like you did) it isnt really necessary to get the fanciest stuff. Rather spend a little less and use the money to get to places (or spend it on the bashguard etc.).

Exactly. Maybe it might even be beneficial to be "forced" to ride more deliberatly and with greater foresight to understand the conditions of the tracks better (?). Dunno if that makes sense.
Also in one video where you had to change a tire on your heritage build you chose to just take a single new tube that would fit both the front and rear tire. With the 17"F/17"R setup you dont have to compromise sizes, so that one fresh tube will surely fit both rims.


Yeah I understand that. But there are always some rogues who adapt ideas to their liking :). Again the way you do things is really inspiring, however ATM I dont feel capable of doing that myself (yet), eventough it is tempting as heck :)

Thanks again. Your explanations have been very clear, that helps a lot.

Concidering the new 2017 cartriges: I presume that you are selling the Level 1 sets due to the fact that by 2017 you'll produce the new ones. Will those new Lvl. 1 Sets also have the externally adjustable compression and rebound damping?

Greetings

Alex

Hee hee - just wait until you see the latest video Juan Browne is working on... it will categorically prove why we feel the Rally Raid CB500X is the BEST all-round twin-cylinder adventure bike on the market...

Suddenly, everything else looks bigger, heavier and more of a liability... ;o)



I would totally agree - for a signifcant improvement both on-road and off, and in the dynamics of the machine in general, the LEVEL 1 standard travel kit is the way to go, and use those savings for important accessories like the Adventure engine guard.

This is Lisa's bike - LEVEL 1 suspension, Adventure engine guard, Scorpion Taper exhaust (not essential, but very nice ;o), Giant Loop Coyote luggage (and Solo brackets), Heavy Duty footrests and TKC80 tyres on the stock rims - it works very well indeed for the shorter rider:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...pszqimwjbt.jpg



Yes, it certainly does... this trip was the first time Lisa had ridden her bike on a series of consecutive days off-road, and she was increasingly impressed with just how capable and manageable it felt - the gearing is nice and low for technical off-road riding, and the fuelling perfect for trickling along at tick-over and then opening up the throttle as required - no nasty surprises to spit you into the dirt!

To clarify, there is still quite a volume disparity between the 17" front tyre (120/70) and the 17" rear tyre (150/70) - but yes, it is not quite as marked as the 19" front which was only 110 width. Therefore you could probably get away with a 130x17" size tube in both - although ideally long-term you'd still want a fatter tube in the rear (see below).

On that particular trip in the video I took a 120x18" rear tube, which would fit in both front and rear tyres if required. for info: It lasted for another 1500 miles until I changed the rear tyre, however I would say a 120 width is a bit narrow for the 150/70 rear TKC tyre, and it was wearing thin after those miles - so it is more a temporary measure until you can get a correct size replacement.

I now carry a 140x18" rear tube (which still should fit in the 19" front tyre ok), but if you have space in your luggage, then of course a separate front and rear tube in the dedicated sizes would mean you ought not to have to change the tube again.

Another option is to just use a top-box for the time being (I did that for a trip around Europe on my XR650R a few years ago) - having lockable storage that keeps the bike nice and narrow (for weaving though traffic in narrow European streets), and with the more expendable stuff - clothes and camping gear - in a soft bag on the rear of the seat?


Yes... the current LEVEL 1 and 2/3 shock bodies needed to be redesigned to fit the new hydraulic preload adjuster to them, as the existing design was not the right shape.

We currently have the new version of the longer travel LEVEL 2/3 shocks available now, with the preload adjuster available as an option at the point of purchase, or retrofittable at a later date if desired.

The standard travel LEVEL 1 and 1b versions of the new shocks will start to be built in the next couple of months, which is why we say they are 2017 model year products.

To clarify - as before, the new LEVEL 1 shock will retain the combined single compression/rebound adjuster at the bottom of the shock, but it will now have the option of fitting the hydraulic preload adjuster collar and remote control knob.

Similarly, the new LEVEL 1b shock will continue to have a separate reservoir with the individual high and low speed compression damping adjusters, while the separate rebound adjuster is on the bottom of the shock, and again will now have the option of specifying the remote hydraulic preload adjuster too.

Hope that clarifies things!

Jenny x

Hi Jenny,

Yes, got it! :)

The heritage bike you've built is pretty appealing so thats what i am aiming for (Except the 2" rise). But I am still confused about the bar risers that you'd need for that. RR offers four different ones which seen indistinguishable from one another to me. The 2 cm drop is to account for the difference in construction of the Fatbar, so much is clear. But why are there four different ones?

Also does the Level 1 Kit come with the nice RR spanners?

greetings

Alex

Hi Alex - basically there are two versions of the top triple-clamp/bar risers: one that accepts the standard 7/8th bars at the OEM height, and a taller riser for the Fat-bars since, as you surmise, the Fat-bars available don't have the same rise as the OEM bars, so need to be correspondingly taller so that the clearances are retained.

The other two options are for the CB500F model - this is essentially the same triple/clamp, just with the additional bracketry for mounting the F headlight unit directly to the forks and triple clamp.

Your confusion was probably compounded by the fact that I think they currently use the same photo on all four options on the website...

Hope that clarifies things!

Jenny x

ps. The wheel spanners do not come as part of the kit, but fortunately they are very inexpensive to add on.

If anyone was still wondering about the trail-ability of the CB500X (well, in Rally Raid spec at least) - last week, this happened...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7jpOMaGnps


While this clip is a great illustration of how the CB500X compares to any larger and more heavy twin-cylinder Adventure bike:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiEA3A8g-88

Jx

Alex:

I've got the RRL3 and it is great, but I know the L1 is also outstanding.

Regarding hard luggage, I have the HepcoBecker boxes on mine -- 35 lt side cases and the top box. VERY rugged and can take getting hit or side swiped in traffic, as well as holding up well to a drop. SW Motech also makes cases, and their foot pegs are outstanding.

I'm not a big fan of Pelican boxes as side cases but have a small one I use as a top box for day trips -- those work great. I much prefer top loading side boxes so things don't fall out. The Pelicans are not light either -- aluminum cases often end up lighter.

But like was mentioned earlier, grab a CB500X, ride it for awhile to be sure you like it, then jump on the cases/RR upgrades/etc.

You'll not regret it!

Thats great to hear. Especially when I think about it rationally, I have a spinal dislocation (?), that thing when the quishy part between vertebrae pops out. So maybe the hardcore offroad isnt the brightest ideas of all.

Considering cases: Those two are the ones I am looking for:

Globescout from Turkey 28L (Expensive though): Side Case Sets :: XPAN+ Aluminium Side Case Set, 2 x 28L, natural

Heavyduties from Romania: Very well received, but bulky: Heavy Duties

Pelican cases also come as top loaders.

Yeah I've testridden two bikes so far for about an hour each and even after the F650GS, which has more HP and Torque on paper it was a blast! :)

@jenny: how great are the savings on the currently discounted lvl.1 shocks? Do you know?

I just decided to buy the Lvl 1 set from RR. My goal is to "get there", even if that means more deliberate riding. I think you can achieve much more than you can think of from the comfort of your couch, with some persistence.
Also the Magdan Softbags fulfill all my needs, which is really confidence inspiring. I just joined the "go light, go fast, go far" mindset; thanks for all the info and above all the tremendous inspiration!

Greetings
Alex

I red that the magadan were difficult to install on cb, cause of the height which would touch the exhaust.
Did you check the caribou soft commander, an interesting compromise between hard and soft?

RRP conversion vs. TÜV
 

Hi Alex,
just came over this thread and agree to the PITA TÜV approval procedures with the RRP Level 3 kit. I am from Germany, I do own myself a CB500X, and had a very decent look into this conversion, and at the same time modifications with already TÜV-approved parts. So contact me if you still think about changing more on the bike (and we can of course discuss in German ;) ).
There is also a long thread about the RRP conversion in the German CBR500R forum (in the 'X' subsection).
Currently I know of exactly one (!) CB500X with the RRP Level 3 kit running on German registration, but still some parts were not recognized by TÜV, so strictly speaking the bike is not legal.
I think you made a good decision and the Level 1 kit should improve your riding comfort a lot. I did similar, and installed a Wilbers suspension kit, now a whole better class bike. With the TKC70 tires on the original cast wheels this works perfect, and will be fine for me 99% of the time, as I do not fancy jumps or hardcore offroading. Not yet ;).
Rgds

Hey great to hear that. Ill write you soon, when i am a little less busy so that I can focus my thouths on the topic.

Also I looked into the Wilbers suspention, and called up the engeneers, but they said that the original 6 inch plastic spacer would not be replaced on their suspention, so that didnt suit me. If you faff around with the suspention, get rid of that useless thing, IMHO.
Also: Are the TKC 70 legal on the bike? I havent seen them on any registration chart (in Germany, the state dictates which tires you are allowed to put on... O.o).
Ill check out the thread in the german forum. I skimmed it but didnt really pay much attention to it. It is interesting which parts werent recognised. But as I now my TÜV guys in Pinneberg or Göttingen, they'll make anything happen for a crate of beer, that is :).

Greetings

Alex

RRP conversion vs. TÜV
 

Now comes the bad news. The modified fork with the spacer was the problem were TÜV did not give approval to the specific bike I was mentioning.

(Sorry int'l readers, this paragraph comes Germany-specific):
As this model doesn't have a tire brand obligation you can put any set of tires on it that comes in original size. (I would always stick to the same make, though.) The TKC70 meets that criteria. It is legal, but the mysteries and stories and a strong tire lobby get many riders nervous. Some insurance companies do not help, and try to refuse compensation in the event of damage, and heavily irritate through this unfair behaviour. But that still doesn't mean you are illegal. Lastly, the TKC70 is a well-engineered, perfectly-balanced tire, and it is doing extraordinary well on the CB-X.
And where is the point in choosing an approved tire, when it turns out to wear quickly, steers with less confidence, and finally makes the bike wobbly, and less safe, as I needed to experience with the Scorpion Trail II on my fully laden Super Ténéré?! Approval does not mean 'more safety'.
:offtopic:

Back to the initial subject: As stated before, I also believe that the CB-X is highly underrated through many potential buyers, if not through Honda itself. It was not on official sale for several months in Germany, now it is back on Honda Germany website. Good decision, Honda!
The bike is simple, reliable, and there is lots of proof in this forum and elsewhere on the internet about what it can do and take.

As also been said, it depends on what you are after. For the backcountry and single trail riders you won't be happy in factory config. On the other hand, there was a rider taking the CB-X off-the-shelf from UK to Mount Ararat and back, on roads mainly, but without major issues, and she loved it! (it was not J-Mo, btw ;) )

Upgrading between OE settings and the RRP level3 kit (and maybe beyond) everything is possible. And the total bill is affordable, even after modification, compared to what the industry wants us to buy for 'adventure' and travelling. The majority of readers here, you guys are lucky, you don't have to cope with TÜV restrictions, but modify whatever you want, whenever you want.

Therefore I believe the CB-X is THE perfect platform to customize your very own adventure bike. I have mine now for 10.000km, running it in comparison to Yamaha XT1200ZE, which I own also. The next bigger trip I plan doing on the CB-X, and that's why I decided to give it an upgrade first. Now, finally done, and very confident, I can't wait to take it out there!

Rear shock external PA option
 

to thread entries #108 and #172 quoted above:

Nice to hear that RRP is developping a solution for an external PA to come soon. For all those seeking an alternative (sorry, J-Mo, no offense meant, but product-wise you might be prejudiced :) ) there is another manufacturer out there offering a shock with external PA for the CB-X.

It comes from Wilbers, and the particular model is the '631 competition'. You can have it in standard height, or with 10mm raise which I chose. This one has by default the external reservoir, and PA as an option. It mounts to the original Honda linkage bone and side plates.

It works on the ABS version and even has the TÜV approval needed for Germany if you strictly mount the PA the designated way. By default the manufacturer puts it right on top of the exhaust, but I convinced them that opposite to the frame where the reservoir sits is also a good place, although that did cost me the default manufacturers built certificate, and I needed separate TÜV approval inspection (yes, we are a bit complicated...)

The PA has 60 clicks, meaning it tunes very fine. Make sure to tell Wilbers where you want to mount it in order they put the connector and hose in right length towards the correct side.

In terms of riding enhancements I am very happy with the improved suspension during all road riding and on (short) good gravel stretches I did so far. Have not been testing all config options yet but very confident it will master all, there is so much more safety and riding potential in this suspension!

As I had to decide whether to go illegal or emigrate and register the bike under foreign flag, I (very sadly!) dropped the option of the RRP kit. Even a very warm welcome through John himself at RRP in England (thanks for the tea!) did not help overcome TÜV issues for why I got the Wilbers shock and fork springs replacements.

Sure this solution meant a compromise, and limits future upgrade possibilities, such as 19"/17" spoked wheels. But to me this was the best option to enhancing the bike. Together with some other parts I now have my very personal and street legal modification which will still cover 99% of my demand.

cheers

Attachment 18520
Wilbers '631 competition' rear shock for CB500X next to Honda original

Attachment 18521
how I mounted the shock reservoir and PA on my CB-X (this needed separate approval)

Attachment 18522
how Wilbers suggests you to mount shock reservoir and PA (this comes with manufacturer's built certificate, recognized from TÜV and authorities)

While the keyboard warriors here were busy comparing the 500X with other "more off-road worthy" bikes and discussing about the RR kit upgrade, a couple in their late 50's from Australia has answered the TS question by actually COMPLETING a RTW trip on their 500X - TWO UP! :clap:

Only minor mods were done - bash plate, tires, phone mount + USB, aluminum boxes and a home-made windshield (which apparently didn't hold up too well).

Get inspired here: If you have taken a photo of us riding please share it with us and I will put them here! Please indicate where it was taken :scooter:

:rain:I met that couple in Chile and their "RTW-trip" was 40 000 kms, so distance vise not that impressive. I did about the same distance in SE-Asia and another 40 k kms in Oz and NZ. Anyhow - great people and a good test for the bike. Would like to mention that the man had ordered a brand new BMW GS 700 which he had waiting for him back home in SA Australia....:innocent:

Said it before - that engine in a lightweight adv set up with 21 and 18 rims - a killer machine indeed.

For anyone interested, there is now a condensed video version of the AV seminar I presented last summer at various Overland events in the UK and USA about my ride across the US and back (including all of the revised Trans-Am Trail) in early summer 2015:

www.CB500XAdventure.com

Grab a coffee (tea, or beer) and enjoy the next 23 minutes!

Jenny x

EDIT! No movie there, it links to 7 year itch ride report on ADV Rider. (WRONG!)
My mistake, clicking on wrong link! doh

Found it, loved it. Very well done. Loved the comment regards our whacky Church zealots ... careful, they're running things now! :smartass:

Packing Vid is silent, very brief, things kind of go by in a blur. A longer, slower, narrated version might be more useful, IMO. But all the basics are there.

Hi Molly' - yes, the Trans-Am video is embedded in the website window, although you can click to watch it full screen too of course.


for info. The link to the 'packing light' slide-show they've included is actually just the slides I used for my presentation last year (I didn't realise they'd uploaded/linked to that too), so you'll need to pause on each one to study the contents...

Obviously it would make a lot more sense if you were at the presentation, although if you read back to the beginning of the Trans-Am 500 ride report (in the link and here on the HUBB) there is a full description of the tools and packing I took on that trip, to which many of those photos relate.

It is my intention to put together an updated a proper narrated/captioned video regarding packing over this summer.

Hope that clarifies things!

Jenny x

I'm looking for a bike to do long road miles on tar and the occasional blast up dirt or dusty tracks to wild camp in the evenings I'm thinking the CB500X fits the bill in standard form with maybe slightly more aggressive tyres for the off road treks.

Some great information and video's on here, I've test ridden the CB500X in standard form today and loved it but on the recommendation of the store staff I'm testing a year older NC750X tomorrow (same price) for comparison. TBH the 750 is going to have to be pretty impressive for me to choose it over the 500.

The two bikes I would say designed for different things I have ridden them both if you look at a bike to do serious rugged miles I would've thought 500 better when I rode 500 to Laos standard tyres ok on v rough roads ,but as always both good bikes.
safe riding
Paul

Seems that from 2017 model, the engine is a stressed member ( engine used as an active structural element of the chassis rather than being passively contained by the chassis). Anyone know if this would be an advantage or disadvantage on an adventure bike?

I’m not sure either model’s frame has changed that radically since introduction, has it, Chris?

Apart from dirt bikes, I think it’s long been the modern way, and for all the right reasons.
On a typical gravel-roading travel bike in this weight category it makes little difference.
One good point mentioned by JMo to me recently, is having the top shock mount on a part
of the frame (as on CB-X, below) not the engine cases. A harsh bottom-out – a conceivable travel
bike scenario: fully loaded, at night, pothole – could break an engine lug off.

Maybe I just misinterpreted an article about the 2017 release where it says saying "The 2017 CB500X engine acts as a stressed member". I thought it meant that was a change starting in the 2017 model. Guess it just meant the 2017 engine acts as a stressed member... as does the 2016, 15, 14...
Reading the comments in that article just now, seems the author apologized for not being clear on what was actually changed...
Looks like the muffler changed in 2017.

Hi Chris - as Chris S says above, nothing has changed regarding the engine and frame over the years, and in practice it having the engine as a partial stressed member (you can see there is still a backbone frame over the top, between the headstock and swingarm/subframe, so it is not a fully stressed member like a Ducati for example - where the swingarm is bolted directly to the engine... or similarly in the case above where Chris S mentions the MT07 which has the shock top-mount bolted to the engine) makes little difference - certainly in the case of the CB500X, which is why John (at Rally Raid) and I felt it was such a good platform for improving...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...sjg3vfgnv.jpeg
photo. note. 'professional rider on a closed course' ;o) - not necessarily recommended, but proof the bike works just fine way beyond it's perceived design parameters...

The only real downside compared to a traditional cradle dirt-bike chassis (which is designed to isolate the engine completely, and of course intended to to be jumped etc.) is that there are no frame rails under the engine to help protect the sump. This is why the Rally Raid engine guard is a steel tubular structure to essentially offer that protection.

As an Adventure bike, the CB500X is an excellent platform. And with the right mods, it is an exceptionally good ALL-terrain bike.

Jx

I'd love to see Honda take the basic CB500X and give it the Africa Twin-Dakar Rally look a like treatment. :thumbup1: If they could keep it light weight, could be a game changer as everyone seems to be begging for a smaller light weight twin in this class.

I'm sure Honda could get a bit more HP out of that very mildly tuned 500 twin, yet still retain good economy. Use the Africa Twin model from there on. Keep it basic to keep costs down, make money on Honda supplied accessories. bier

A great idea indeed Mollydog! If they could get the weight down to 150-160 kilos dry it would be great. A bit more power would be great, especially in the low and mid RPM rev range as the 500 engine needs a bit of reving to get the power on.
The power limitation as it is now I would guess is set as it is to conform to the Euro A2 motorbike license limits of 47 HP/35 KW Understand the January 19th changes | Visordown

UK based Rally Raid Honda CB500X/F/R have been showing a more off road version of the CB500X at shows and the like. Lots of nice bits :thumbup1:

for info. There is a dedicated test of the CB500X Adventure conversion on the Bennetts BikeSocial online magazine this month, together with a profile of Rally Raid Products including a sneak preview of some new developments in the pipeline...

Jx