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Cheap Arse Bike needed £1000 Tops
Hi,
Just Posted in the introduction a little bit about me and what I've ridden but basically I've owned an Xr125, Er500 and an XJ600 in the past, and I've never done more than probeberly 60 miles at a time. So I'm looking at a bike to do some serious miles on but it has to be really cheap, Firstly i don't have the money for a GS1200, secondly the stories that inspire me the most are the ones of the guys that are on basic bikes without all the tech and gadgets. So basically I'm looking around the 500 - 1000 range, so anything from a CB90 to a CB500, I would have no problem with a cb90 but the bike itself might, I'm big fella and i just don't think it would cope plus i would like the option of getting on motorways if needed, so I'm looking at around the 500cc range. I Loved my ER5 and XJ600 so I'm looking at these again but worried if they would be suitable, any advice would be really appreciated! beer |
Do you want to just ride roads or take it some trails too ??
For road riding, you have all sorts of options. Bandit 600S perhaps. Fazer 600. If you want something more dual sport, you really can't go wrong with a Honda Dominator, KLR650, XT600E etc. I still can't understand the C90 obsession. It's somehow just trendy. You couldn't give them away 5 years ago. For good reason. If you enjoy riding and are a capable rider, it will leave you infuriated with it's lack of power and handing. |
Mate of mine bought an xj600 for £600 a few years back. He rode it from the uk through the alps and home, then round the scottish coastline (from Bristol), and then from the UK to Romania. He thought he broke it there - turns out it only needed a front sprocket so now back up and running.
If you loved the xj600 go with that - it will be fine. |
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About the CB90 to be honest i was shocked at the price some of them are going for.... considering it is really just a step up from a push bike! but yeah time sure its appeal will soon disappear going flat out at 30mph doh Liam |
I picked up a yamaha sr250 a few years back for £250 that's £1 per cc ( actually a bit more as it's 239cc) It has been so much fun. Not fast and hell on anything more than busy A roads, but avoid wide tarmac and it is great. Stick on the right tyres and it will do dirt and gravel. light enough to pick up on your own fully loaded. Simple to fix. Still got it still use it.
Also recently picked up a Suzuki XF650 which was quite expensive at just over £600! ( less than £1 per cc! ) Still sorting a few very minor things but so far this bike looks very promising. pretty much same engine as dr650( very respected) spoked wheels, good power, will take 2 if you have to, reasonably comfy on long runs, cruise at safe speeds on motorway ( if you must) goes off road well. (with right tyres) There aren't many of either of these bikes about in UK as they just are not very popular, but to my mind very underrated for what they are, this makes them cheap. As you see I don't normally pay more than £1 per CC :rofl: But if you want to do some serious touring with not too much off road DL650 vstrom ticks a lot of boxes. It's a liittle more £'s but worth saving up for. But frankly any bike will do the job. Any cc any £'s Think about what you plan to do and choose a bike suitable for the worst conditions. |
A road bike's suspension is usually way too soft and doesn't have enough travel. Big pot holes could be a pain. You'd bottom out all the time unless you ride really slow.
If you're happy at 65-70mph, a Dommie is a good choice. Very versatile bike. |
Your choice comes down to where you want to ride and on what kind of roads. If it is close to home-ish and all on roads then there are plenty of choices. If you are wanting to go off tarmac, consider how much. If its just a little, then battle on with you road bike. If its a lot, then you need to search around and be prepared to buy something with a few issues that will take time to work out.
For £1000 you are not going to get a mint vehicle, it will take time and a little money to get it good. 4 years ago I bought a bike with 'issues' for £1500 because that was all I could afford. It took a lot of time and some frustration finding the faults, but eventually I did and I still own the same bike now after over 25 000 miles of riding. Would never want another. If you are willing to put in the time and expense, you'll do well and you'll also make it your bike which is worth a few trillion! |
That kawasaki ER-5 that you mentioned is really a fine choice as long as you don't have any difficult off-road riding in mind. It's really a plain simple kind of old-school bike with comfortable relatively modern handling , makes a fine commuter and can certainly be taken around the world. It's been done before ( see video)
I'd be really surprised if you can't get a totally mint one for 1000 £, I just managed to find one to use for my daily ride to work and it cost next to nothing, literally speaking. Some tyres and a chainset and an MOT later and I'm starting to think that this is the bike I'll use for my next long trip instead of my R 80 G/S. ( If you're on facebook look for the Kawasaki er5 Group, a few members have bikes on sale in the UK at the moment at around 650£) |
My favourite would be a transalp but I'm tall so like to be unfolded. Lighter and more fuel economy than a four, a lot more pleasant at higher speeds than a single, and can take minor of tarmac excursions.
Saying that just keep your eyes open and get whatever's nice and available - if you restrict yourself to just this or that bargains might be missed. Think about spares availability so sales in your home country and wherever you'll be going, plus if you want boxes who makes racks for which model and so on. |
A road bike can get very far on rough roads but it depends. In my experience a nervous bike is not nice if the terrain is slippery. An old yamaha xj600 was hard work because you lean on the handlebars at low speed. In gravel you want to get the weight off the front wheel so it wont dig in. A normal naked bike will get you very far.
If you want more adventure think transalp 600, xt, xl, dr, klr etc. Don't bother with the v-strom, versys, or 700 transalp unless you stay away from narly trails. Try a lot before you buy Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T113 met Tapatalk |
whatever you buy on a budget, you'd better factor in cash to drop at a hat on consumables and stuff.. like chain& sprockets, fork seals, brake pads, discs, tyres, wheel bearings etc...
here is a checklist if you are going shopping for a bike, (this is focused towards the uk market) Thinking about buying a second hand motorbike, the checklist below might help prevent you from buying a lemon General Make: Model: Date of registration: Advertised Price: Registration: VIN Number (check that the same on all docs): V5 Issue Date (UK Only): V5 Serial Number (UK Only): Service records? Service receipts? Part receipts? Do the receipt dates all tie in correctly? When is the next service due? Whats due on the next service, is it a big one? What is the service schedule? All MOT certificates? Do the MOT mileages tie in correctly? When does the current MOT expire? If on SORN how long for? Is it taxed? When does the tax expire? Any warranty left? What does the warranty cover? HPI Status? Has it ever been raced? First Impressions How clean is the bike (1 to 10) ? Is the bike kept garaged, outside, in a wooden shed etc? Is it always kept garaged, outside, in a wooden shed etc? Any non-standard parts (i.e. exhausts, belly pans, heated grips etc)? Centre stand? Side stand? Does the side stand have a cutoff switch? Does it work? General opinion on mileage vs condition? Mechanical - Engine Is the engine cold? You need to start the bike as part of your checks, starting from a warm engine is always easier. You need to see it start with ease from cold. Does it start first time with ease? When was the last service? What was serviced? Last oil change? Last filter change? Who did the servicing? Clutch operation? Does the oil pressure light go off immediately after starting? On the straight and narrow Is it straight down the centre line? Exhaust condition (rusted, holed)? Collector box (rusted, holed)? Mileage on tyres? Does the throttle snap closed when released? Is there any play in the headstock? Are the headstops there? Whats the condition of the seat? Any rust inside the tank (use a torch)? If the bike has been sat, how long for? Are the fork seals intact? Are the fork stantions pitted? Any hooking on the sprockets? When were the sprockets last changed? Were front and rear changed at the same time? When was the chain last changed? Does the bike use a chain oiler? What is the rear axle position? If a duel exhausts is the pressure the same on both sides? Electrical Do all electrical switches operate smoothly? Do all electrical switches work? Does the number plate light work? Indicators? Front lights? Rear lights? Clocks lights? Does the bike have daylight running lights (DRL)? Does it have an alarm? Does it work? Does it have an immobiliser? Does it work? Fluids - Last change, Change History, Colour Brake fluid Oil colour (honey or tar black? If the latter it hasn't been changed recently)? Coolant Scrapes and Scratches Everything that sticks out has potential to have some surface scratches, typically this are cosmetic but may give you some scope to negotiate on price. Bars? Exhausts? Plastics? Fairings? Hand levers? Foot levers? Foot lever rubbers? Indicators? Frame? Mirrors? Misc - Locks Do the locks all work smoothly, or do they need a "knack"? The latter may indicate worn barrels, on a ignition this may mean having to replace the entire unit. Seatlocks? Ignition? Others? Tyres, Wheels & Brakes Tyre age Tyre code / make / model Tread depth Squared off Are the rims dinged in any way? Any play in the rear wheel bearings? Any play in the front wheel bearings? Rear brake pads age? Rear brake pads mileage? Front brake pads age? Front brake pads mileage? Front brake pad binding? Rear brake pad binding? Any pulsing / vibration from the front brakes? This can only really be tested on a test ride, if you find this issue it most likely indicates a warped brake disc Any pulsing / vibration from the rear brakes? This can only really be tested on a test ride, if you find this issue it most likely indicates a warped brake disc Misc Is the bike toolkit present? Does the toolkit have all the important stuff in it? Some bikes have unique tools that can be expensive to source when you need it Ask - So, what's wrong with it? Reason for sale? |
some kiwis have been adventurising the Suzuki GN250... But most gravel roads here are quite tame, I got overtaken by a sports bike on the 309 in Coromandel (of top gear fame!). Dunno if I should be admitting to that!
80% of my riding could be done on a road bike, but its those random times you think 'whats over there' you are grateful with something with long travel, good clearance, light, etc. |
howdy Liam!
Im an avid fan of cheap small bikes. They will go anywhere you want them to, and they are light so you rarely get bogged in shitty conditions. I have ridden a $200 dollar Yamaha 125cc scooter around Thailand, a 125cc Wuyang Honda through Burma and a $500 Bajaj 150cc through India. All went through dirt roads, potholes, streams, paddocks, highways etc without a hitch. Repairs were so cheap i didn't even care when I broke down or got a flat tyre.
Here's some info for ya! dags VS the world dags VS the world - Adventure motorcycle travel and ramblings Definate needs are, new tyres, new battery, new fuses, decent horn and service the bike before you leave. Thats it man, just do it! dags |
Cheap bike
Just done France to Thai on 1987 Honda 600 XL great bike ,22,000 k only problem had to change steering head bearings .
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£1000 Tops
On that price range, I´d also look very hard into a used Transalp. In fact I once met a couple of Aussies in Malaysia, they´d bought two Trannys (and each one HAD cost ´em under 1000 pounds!) from the UK, and ridden them all the way there. The bikes looked like s_it, but they had just kept going. |
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