Crossing Pakistan, my experience, Nov 2013
 

Crossing Pakistan by Motorcycle

A good place to start is Akbahr Tourist Guesthouse in Bam. (~10$, negotiate it). He speaks well English and is very friendly. Coordinates: 29.09037, 58.36262.

I saw in the registration books, that around 30 People crossing Pakistan in a month. If you wait in Bam a couple of days, I’m sure you will find other traveller for crossing.

Bam to Mir Javeh
About 460 km on good roads (up to 120 km/h possible). Leave Bam early, so you have the chance to cross the border at the same day. The last 40km on Iran side is with an escort (you don’t have to pay the escort), but the escort will keep you passport and return it after the border process. The escort will show you a hotel in Mir Javeh if necessary. The Iran police provide you an officer who guides you through the border. Time for border processing on Iran side is around 2 hours. On Pakistan side you need also around 2 hours. The Pakistan police (Levis Force) will not let you go after 14:00 and you have to stay at the police station. The police will bring you food or guide you to the marked. There is also no need to pay money to the police, but they try to get some from you. Stay in a hotel is also possible (~15$, simple rooms, no shower, no parking).
Change money is in the border area possible.

Taftan to Quetta
First I will explain how the police work. The Police is responsible for you safety and will get a lot of trouble if something happen with you. The easiest way for the police are to bring you as soon as possible out from their responsible area. They don’t care about where is the best place to stay, they want to get rid of you just as soon as possible. So you have to plan by yourself and insist if necessary.
The whole way from Taftan to Quetta you’ll be escorted. Escort changes are most of time quick and also the registration process at the checkpoints. You are faster if you know you passport and visa number from memory (if you don’t know, write whatever you want. Nobody will check it).
Accommodations are in Dalbandin and Nushki possible, but not outside of these cities.
Distance: ~660 km on most good and ~20 km very shitty roads. Total 18 Registrations and escort changes! To do it in one day is not possible.

Quetta
To stay in Quetta Bloom Star Hotel is ok (~10$, with shower and parking). Be careful if eat or drink beer in the hotel. It’s very expensive. You have to pay all ordered beers even if you drink it or not. There are a couple of small restaurants around the hotel. The hotel owner tell you it’s not allowed to leave the hotel after 18:00 (I know him primarily as a businessman of money making).
To leave the city a NOC (No Objection Certificate) is needed. The hotel owner will call you an escort who know the way to the Ministry. The NOC is exposed for the next day and you have to stay one day more. You don’t have to pay for the NOC. Finally no one checked the NOC. If someone know is it really necessary, please let me know. Time you need is around 3-4 hours to get it.

Quetta – Sukkur – Multan – Lahore
You'll be escorted to the border of Baluchistan, but after you are still not free. It’s not allowed to stay in all hotels. The police feel still responsible and will bring you in a ‘safe’ and expensive hotel. But you can say to the police, you don’t have as much money and he have to look for a cheap hotel, and they do!

Please feel free to ask me for more detailed information’s: bigdream@infiniteroad.ch
You can send me also your experience and I’ll include it.

Good luck, Chris

Hi Chris!

Thank you very much for the description about your route to Pakistan. We are a spanish couple that are going to travel from Spain to Vietnam crossing Iran and Pakistan. This information is very important, thanks again!!

Best Regards,
Javi and Diana

Hi Chris.
I coudn't contact you through the mail you posted. Can you give me an alternative one??
thank you

Yeah, this was basically the same experience I had.
I'd say it's extremely easy and straightforward if you follow THEIR rules. Be polite, maintain a low-profile, and the people of Pakistan will amaze you. They are truly among the most generous people on earth.

Don't be scared about what you hear in the news.

hi,
we tried to cross Pakistan from India to Iran.
We are traveling with an 4x4 Truck. we could enter Quetta. but there it was not possible to get an NOC for the road from Quetta to Taftan. After two day`s sitting in the Home Office Department we decided to go back to india.
We think, because of the security situation it will not be possible to get an NOC in Quetta in the next days? weeks? ...?

So if anybody is planing a trip from India to Iran, it is better to call the Home-Office Department in Quetta first. Tesl: 0092 (0) 81-9201878

:palm::palm:

Hello
Shared the same expierience a week before Chris
One thing comes in mind , when you change money , bring dollars instead of eur, you get a much better exchange rate
Have fun

Verstuurd vanaf mijn GT-I9505 met Tapatalk

Sorry to hear that. It looks like the Pakistanis have formally closed the Asian Overland Trail!! There are ways around this however, using back roads into Baluchistan to reach Nushki... :innocent:

Hi,

yes we were thinking to take an other road, Offroadtrack is no problem with our 4x4 Truck. But in Beluchistan we had to drive all the time with Police-Escort. We tried to get rid. But they came back :-( with escort you can´t go offroad or drive away from main road.
from where did you go to Nushki? and how long was it ago?
:palm::palm:Stefan:palm::palm:

Hi Stefan and Eva

Our travel companions who will join us for the trip in Pakistan have just visited the Pakistan Embassy in New Delhi and are told the road to Taftan is open and all foreigners with a Pakistan visa and a visa to Iran will be able to obtain a Police escort to the border wit Iran.
For us this is great news, once we have the Iran visa we will leave and visit Pakistan.

Are you still in pakistan???

Cheers
Fearless

Hello,

I have planned to cross Pakistan on my way from India to Iran in May. I have done the same trip from Taftan via Quetta to Multan - Lahore last year without any problems. LEVIES security guards were always with me and there were no problems.

How is the security now and what exactly is the NOC? Where can I get this paper? Anyone done the trip to Taftan lately!!
Does anyone have up to date information for me!!

thanks G.

Hi Dernt

We are in Kasmir a present and will be crossing into Pakistan hopefully next week. I have not been able t obtain any news re the NOC from others. However it appears t me this is maybe not required by tourist with a visa?
The Pakistan Embassy in Delhi told us it was not required as we had a visa?!?!
As I understand it the hardest part is to get the escort from Quetta to Taftan
See also above comments from Mogmog. (stefan and Eva) I believe once te snow is gone they will try and drive the KKH towards China.
We will keep you updated

Cheers
Fearless

Hi fearless,

I contacted some Pakistani guy, like the hotel owner in Dalbandin and Quetta, who I met the last time being there. All confirm that Levis security is provided on the way to Taftan.
Some recommend to check on an approval of Ministry of Home Affairs before you go to Quetta. Then, all escorts should be set up and there is less delay in Quetta.

Here is on response of a guy, on my question of the escort situation on Taftan highway! (--> his contact is: info@tourism.gv.pk)

"Thanks for your message.
Yes its is possible. You need following documents:
1. Your car registration, international driving license, third party
insurance papers, carnet-de-passage, Pakistan Visa...for border entry
procedures.

2. Please send you vehicle number, passport copy, tentative program with
route by email scanned copy to us. We shall send these documents through
Pakistan M/O Interior and on to provincial government for provision of
Levis Escort/security arrangements.

Regards,

Tayyab Nisar Mir
Manager
PTDC
Islamabad"

Hi Dernt

Many thanks for the information and in particular email adress
I will follow today and keep you posted.

Sent the mail received the following message The following message to <info@tourism.gv.pk> was undeliverable. Dernt can you pls check the email adress for us.

By the way any contacts in Lahore?
Need some parking for our truck. 7meters long-3.7 mtr high and 2.4 wide so need some space. Hotel carpar would also be fine

Cheers
Fearless

hi fearless,

Sorry I forgot the o in gv. So here is the correct one: info@tourism.gov.pk !!

I don't have any contacts in Lahore! But Pakistani were very friendly and helpful.

cheers Gerhard

Hi Gerhard,

No worries mate, mail resent and I keep you up to date.

Cheers Fearless
From the Rohtang pass in India

Double Dutch World Safari | 4WD Overlanders

I am Lahore based and you can feel free to contact me if I can be of any assistance.

Cheers

Omar

Great people
 

I agree, a most friendly and helpful people. I think Chris gives an accurate picture of travelling in Baluchistan and Iran, although I was travelling east to west. Times change, but in 2010 I had an escort from Sukker to Bam.
In 2010 I was told that I could not access cash in Iran, I don't know if that is still the case, so I cashed up with rupee in Quetta and exchanged it at the border. Just check the exchange rate before hand so you know the rate.
There are moves afoot to open another border crossing to the south near Pishin, so that is something to watch. I really want to ride the Makran.
Cheers,
Mark.

Hi All

As promised here is the first update
First of all Gerhard many thanks for the lead, Mr Tayyab Nisar Mir was very quick in his response and we have sent him the copies of our passports and copies of our Pakistan Visa. Below I have copied his latest mail to me, we will keep you updated. Hopefully we cross into Pakistan in the next few days

Omar our first port of call will be Lahore so we may catch up. We would love a good T Bone or Rib Eye Fillet steak after 20 weeks in India eating Lamb-Mutton or chicken.

For all others below the response and contact details. This info is as of today March 27 2014. Pls note in 6 months things could have changed.
Looking forward to visiting Pakistan and we keep you updated

Cheers Fearless


Response from Tayyab hope this is of interest to those travelling Iran - India or India to Iran. Tayyab Mir was very fast to respond.

Dear Robert and Clary,
For your Iranian visa, Lahore or Islamabad will be OK. We do not suggest to stay longer in Quetta. Karakoram Highway shall not be closed with snow when you arrive in Islamabad. There are two routes: One via Kaghan Valley will be snow bound/closed. The other via Besham-Chilas-Gilgit-Hunza and/or to Skardu remain open around the year (except for a few hours land-slides during rainy months of July and August). If you want to cross over to China visa Khunjerab Pass...that will be possible after 1st May...the official (yearly) opening date of the border between Pakistan and China. Travel on Besham-Dassu-Chilas section is only allowed during day time.
Camping spots in Lahore are available but I need to check from our Lahore office for an appropriate one. The camping site in Islamabad is situated on Kashmir Highway near Aabpara Market (Find on Google Earth: "Camping site on Kashmir Highway, Islamabad" GPS: 33 42 16.90 N 73 05 19.96 E ).
Khyber Pass is currently closed for foreign tourists. To visit Peshawar, a special permit from the Secretary Home Department in Peshawar is required. In the current security situation, we recommend to avoid visiting Peshawar and Khyber Pass or any area near the Tribal belt between Pakistan and Afghanistan.
For visiting some Forts in the area, we suggest you travel from Lahore to Islamabad via N-5 (GT Road) and you can visit Rohtas Fort (past Jehlum and just 1 km before Dina, turn left to take Rohtas Fort Road - 9 km). In Islambad, you can go for a city tour and also visit Taxila Museum and the Sites (35 km from Islamabad) and you can also have a day or two spare for Murree and Ayubia - the Himalayan hill stations just within 2 hours drive from Islamabad.
How would you travel from Islamabad to Multan? We recommend following route:
Islamabad-Lahore-Multan via M-2 (Motorway) and N-35 (GT Road). Enroute you can visit Khewra Salt Mines (World's 2nd biggest Rock Salt Mines - allow two hours extra).
In Quetta, you can park you Motor home in a hotel in Cantt area. Day Excursion is to nearby Hanna Lake.
I shall pass on the names of places / rest houses / hotels where you can park your motorhome in my next email.
I have downloaded all your documents and shall write a letter accordingly for the police escort.

You are welcome to post the information on the internet.
Regards,
Tayyab Nisar Mir
Manager Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) Near Fatima Jinnah Hostel, Pakistan Sports Complex, Kashmir Highway, Islamabad 44000 Pakistan
Tel: +92-51-9215851, 9211513 Fax: +92-51-9211511 Cell: +92-51-5048895 Email: info@tourism.gov.pk and tayabmir@yahoo.com
Facebook Page: PAKISTAN TOURISM DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION Facebook Page: Tayyab Mir Flickr: Flickr: Tayyab Mir's Photostream Scribd: Tayyab Mir on Scribd | Scribd

Hi fearless,

What are your plans? Are you staying longer in Pakistan. I will be crossing into Pakistan on 4th of May. Do you think you will be still there at the time?
And are you organising the Iranian Visa in Pakistan, or do you have it already. Last year I met a German motorbiker who did the Iranian Visa in Islamabad, and he had to wait quite long.

Best Gerhard

Hi Gerhard

We are using a agency Iranianvisa.com?!?! We paid them on Febr 12, where promised a visa reference number in 10 days so we could pick up in Delhi.
After 2 weeks we received the first hard luck story Iranian New year things were slow?, Next they asked for our pasports again so the could check re the delay? Next it was one week delayed and ready for pick up March 17. This became there is a technical problem? Next it was Iranian new Year? so yes we are also still waiitng. We have asked if we can now pick up in Lahore but response has no come as yet?

In hindsight I should have used Key2persia but made a mistake thinking same company? One is called Sarah (Iranianvisa.com) the other is called Zahra (key2persia) all people I met have use her and she was a lot faster? Further to this another overlander I met in Delhi was told ny the Iranian Embassy to use Iranianvisa.com hence we went for this email adress and paid the $$$.

Iranian Embassy in Delhi advised us to re-apply and sent letter to Iran Tourism Commission.

What can you do?.

We hope to be in Iran May so we either meet nar the border or along the way in Iran. Do you hve your Iran Visa already and which agency did you use. (embassy in Pakistan and India do not issue visa's to foreigners I am told)

Keep you posted
Fearless

hi gerhad,

my name is zainal, traveling 2 up from malaysia. we plan to enter pakistan from the indian side on 1st week of may, same time as you. our pakistan's visa already in hand valid for a month. probably we can ride into Pakistan together up to certain area.

we also plan to apply iran visa in Islamabad. we had applied in Malaysia but the visa agent insists escort for us (cost quite a sum) which we are not keen. so they are not giving the visa:(. the problem is that i am a Malaysian and can get visa on arrival into iran but my wife is a south african and her visa must be pre-approved.

what is the chance to get one for her in Islamabad and how difficult/long will it take? does anyone have any experience?

thanks,
zainal

Hi Zainal

I am told to get a Iran Visa you have to apply via a agency? we did this via the Iranian Embassy in Delhi who recommended a agency?!
See my comments above

Cheers
Fearless

Hi

I have got the Iranian Visa already. I used "Orient-Travel-Pars", an agency I got recommend by the Iranian embassy in Vienna. (info@orient-travel-pars.com)

--> To get the reference number it took me 7 days. With the reference number it should be possible to apply at any embassy for the Iranian visa.
As I remember the German biker did the same in Islamabad. He was delayed because of the elections last year.
I guess the New Year celebraton will also delay the visa, then there are 3 national holidays in begin of April. Honestly, I would say you have to be patient to get the Iranian Visas done.

Keep me updated,...
Gerhard

Hi Omar
We are crossing into Pakistan tomorrow and planning to be in Lahore late afternoon. We are looking for a parking spot for our truck.
Have been told Avari Hotel and Pearl Contnental have large parking spaces where we may can stay overnight. Could you confirm?
Our motorhome is 6.7 meters long 2.4mtr wide and 3.7 meters high.

Cheers
Fearless

Thanks Fearless about the info for Iran visa. We will do the same and hopefully we can get it the way you did.

Cheers,
Zainal

No worries mate, we keep you up to date.

Fearless

They do have big parking lots but do they allow needs to be inquired. They certainly allow cars of guests staying in the hotel. Usually the management is very helpful. PCs Universal Access Number is, 042-111-505-505.
Good luck.
Once in Lahore you can call or SMS me a
Cheers

Hi fearless,

How are you! Have you got the visa for Iran and did you get the approval to cross Beluchistan!

best Gerhard

Starting ADVICE
 

hi guys!

i am planning to go back to Spain from Nepal on a motorbike! Have read all your comments and I cannot wait to start! My route would be India, Pakistan, Iran,Turkey, Greece, Italy and France!

I am still in the beginning of everything and I am still deciding on what motorbike using, and have some starting questions.. hope you can help me! :)

Since I am a bit low on budget I was thinking on getting a Yamaha RX 135cc that a club in Nepal would help me preparing (Hearts & Tears MC | Nepal Motorcycle Tours | Royal Enfield Tours). I was wondering if there are enough roads which i can safely ride without needing to use a highway, since i am interested in a "slow" trip... moreover, do you know if, in need, it is possible to use a 135cc in Highways in India Pakistan Iran or Turkey?

Another concern is crossing Pakistan. I have heard all kinds of things, but it seems that from your experience there is no need to worry? What would you recommend for safely crossing it?
I've heard that some people put the bike on a truck or on a train, do you think it is necessary and know where i can find some info?

These are the 2 main issues that concern me before starting with everything! hope you can help me!

Merry Christmas and congrats for your trips!

2 good questions!
 

Hi TJM
2 good questions!
For the motorbike maybe I cannot help much. 135cc is not very much and you will drive the bike always on the limit (maybe above). I expect you carry also a lot of luggage and the frame of a small bike is usually not very strong. Consider also how you get spare parts in other countries.

For sure there are enough road for a slow traveler. BTW not the road makes the travel interesting ... ;-)

For the second question, it's important that you decide for yourself. You are responsible for yourself. Don't trust if someone say "yes, sure Pakistan is safe". If you do not feel safe, take the train or ship the bike by boat to Iran (via Dubai it's possible). If you think yes I can do it, collect information's from other travelers to have a good plan to cross Pakistan. I felt basically better in a convoy and you will find other travelers by searching one on the HUBB.

Please feel free to contact me for more information's -> bigdream@infiniteroad.ch

Have fun
Chris

Most of the people putting bikes on trains did not do so by choice, you are forced to do that by the police, if they think it is unsafe to travel over the road.

But it's hard to say, security issues change day by day... We had a very good time in Pakistan.
I would say, get your Pakistani visa, and make your decision when you are in India. Be reminded that you cannot get your pakistan visa while you're travelling!

Have fun, it's a great trip.

About the bike, I think 135cc is not much, but people do these trips on bicycles as well, so there's plenty of roads where you can ride. In most of the countries you will visit, EVERYone drives a 80 or 110cc little motorbike, and they are able to carry a cow on the back of it...

On the other hand, petrol in these countries is very cheap! What will your millage be on your 135cc?

To give you a idea, my bike was a 650. My average was 1 Liter to 18.5 km. I drove together with a guy on a 250cc, his bike would do roughly the same if we drove around 100km/h.

Some stats

Nepal
658 km - 40 L - € 45
India
1154 km - 63 L - € 58
Pakistan
4560 km - 234 L - € 183
Iran
3837 km - 213 L - € 65 (!)
Turkije
2347 km - 127 L - € 208 (!)
Griekenland
830 km - 50 L - €175
Italië
1000 km -52 L - €78
Zwitserland
300 km - 15 L - €20
Frankrijk - Luxemburg - Belgie - Nederland
813 km - 45 L - € 60

Check my website there's more...

Hi TJM,
So you are planning a trip on the legendary Yamaha King; Rx135, fabulous. I have always admired this pocket rocket and love its acceleration and delivery of power which can keep up or outrun much bigger displacement bikes. It certainly is a treat to ride.

Despite my admiration for the bike, i have to admit that because it is 2 stroke it isnt as reliable as the 4 strokers. 2 strokers are powerful but not fuel efficent and Rx is a guzzler for its size. I would recommend that if you want to travel on a small bike buy a Honda CG125 or Yama YBR125 or Suzuki GS 125/150. They are more reliable, fuel efficient with easy availability of spares and experts along your way.

As regards Pakistan; its wonderful but comes with a pinch of salt. Just a reminder that 180 million people like me are living here and raising there children pretty decently.
If you come to Pakistan do give me a call and we can have tea together.

Cheers Omar