Has anyone been to Kurdish Kurdistan lately?
 

Hi,
I'm planning a short trip (3 weeks) across the Turkish Kurdistan, and I was wondering if someone here could share some info regarding the fights between the turkish government and the PKK. I'm aware it's a complex and evolving situation but... Is it safe for travellers right now? Are there any places one should avoid?
Im thinking something along the lines of:
Gaziantep - Sanliurfa - Harran - Mardin - Midyat - Mor Gabriel - Hasankeyf - Diyarbakir - Nemrut Dağı.

If anyone can think of another must-see place, i'd be more than happy to include it in the itinerary.

Thanks
Marc

I've travelled in that region several times over the years, the insurgency and counter-insurgency vary in intensity, but the army / jendarma presence is always very strong. In my opinion, if there was something genuinely dangerous going on, the army / jendarma would keep you out; partly for your own safety but also because the authorities are very reluctant for foreign journalists to see what is going on.

I was last in the region in December 2021 and February of this year. My impression is that the major operations and switch of regional leadership in the last few years has greatly reduced the air of unrest - Diyarbakir felt calm and even Cizre seemed to be less tense.

Of course there is an element of unpredictability in the situation, but I don't believe there is a specific threat to foreigners. But if you need guaranteed security, south east Turkey is not the place.

Specific sites I would recommend are Gobeklitepe and Karahantepe (respectively close to Urfa and Harran) if you like archaeology. Also, if you are looping back to the west, the Tunceli / Pertek / Elazig / Sivas region is very scenic.

EO

I've travelled through parts of Turkish and Iraqi Kurdistan earlier this month (2022-6). I've visited most of the places you mentioned and they seemed rather relaxed when I was there (Antep - Urfa - Midyat - Mardin - Hasankeyf)

Things felt considerably more tense towards the east with more active checkpoints and actual passport control at the checkpoints and constant presence of military activity such as troop transport convoys on the road and fleets of helicopters flying (Sirnak - Baskale - Dogubayazit - Igdir).

The situation was hot in Hakkari where I actually witnessed helicopters engaging in fighting in the mountains that I was on. I'd like to point out that the checkpoint failed to inform me that I was riding into a fighting zone. Or stop me from going there.

Similarly, the situation in Iraqi Kurdistan is more tense in some regions at the moment. Since you're not going there I'll spare the details.

Cheers and have a safe ride,
Benjamin

The Turkish side is safe, as long as you don't go up small mountain roads into the mountains where the PKK is. If you stick to main roads it will be 100% safe. The cities are also very safe.

Same goes for the Iraq side, if you stay to the main roads you won't have any problems.

As for recommendations Göbeklitepe is in the area and worth going! Also try the Adana kebab! I'd avoid food from really small street stalls (was sick for 2 weeks), buy from stores or bigger restaurants.

Thank you very much eurasiaoverland, I appreciate you taking the time to answer.
Im perfectly okay with Kurdistan not being a place with guaranteed security, but I wouldn't want to end up in the middle of a bombing either.
I'm adding the places you mentioned to my itinerary.

upanddown.voyage, thank you very much. I'm going in august, I hope things will stay more or less the same til then. I don't have enough time to get to the Iraqi Kurdistan, so I'll have to save that one for another trip.

frameworkSpecialist, I'll heed your recommendation of not goint up small mountain roads. Göbeklitepe is in my list now, and I'm definetely going to have some Adana kebab. I've been to Turkey a couple times over the past few years and I've never had any problems with food, but I'll keep your advice in mind.

Thank you all!


PS: I just realised I mispelled the thread's name, I must've been kind of sleepy at the time. :)

The PKK have no beef with you. They will not bother you. If you find yourself in a place that the Turkish government doesn't want you, then they'll let you know fairly immediately. The same goes for anywhere there is active fighting or an operation - you'll be told fairly quickly to bugger off by plain clothes Turkish cops.



Happy riding.

Thanks Joe!