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As you ask, one of my most memorable (there have been a few) - flat out full throttle with very heavy right hand down the Norwich Straight at Snetterton - agonising over how close to get to the marker before braking hard for the hairpin. (Norwich Straight and hairpin all long gone now, you have to go back a lot of years for that). :wheelchair: 'Agonising' because after a mile of this straight there's a solid grandstand in the straight-ahead direction. Deciding "one more second" - when the fat triplex-width primary chain - running at crankshaft speed - snaps inside its chaincase next to my left toe. Like a bomb exploding and for the next second you think you've arrived in the Next Life. :eek3: I could ask "Ever seen an incident where a primary chain failed?" But I won't. Hope everyone can bring their methods and experiences here for the benefit of the rest of us without comments of hilarity and demands for photos...... |
Real tests
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24 hours isn't really long enough, our standard tests are 72 hours when heated to 40C or 3 weeks at room temperature. The results wil be roughly the same though, you might see a little more action from the WD40 and Kerosene.
Andy |
Err ok so that thread only has the 24 hour results... but it mentions long term tests too ... just not included there ... but it does have a link to results after 15 days..
PART II WD-40 O-ring exposure effect results - ADVrider Ok not quite your 3 weeks ... but indicative. Don't think tensile strength is what is needed in a chain for an O ring... but there you go. Not a comprehensive test - need 6 samples of each at least (students T). But better than "my chain lasted xx" err yep that helps some. But it would be better if you could test the same bike with the same type of chains under the same conditions at the same time with different lubes etc. Like that is going to happen :rofl: Better in the lab where things are more tightly controlled and you can test in parallel with different products. |
So long as it ain't dogma
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As for the references to tensile testing, it has a part to play in materials technology being cheap, quick and easy to do in many cases and it can point the way to the existance of a problem, even if the problem itself is not entirely understood. There again, what is fully understood in this world?? :innocent: - so the "reality check" of those who have practical experience is always worth attention and given due consideration (then you can reject it and go your own way!!). |
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OT, If you want to trash rubber I can reccomend a certain brand of Lemon flavoured alcopop, it's the worst stuff we've ever tried to pump, mine acids and radioactive waste don't do what that stuff will. Andy |
Well, I played with it and discovered that there was an air leak in the system (the black rubber feeder thing I suspect), and so faced the inevitable and got a replacement RMV, so the whole WD40 issue will not be tested.
Having spent well over 2 hours fiddling with it, I have to say that I have developed a deep distaste for Scottoiler and sadly wish the bike had not actually come with it.... I have learned a lesson for the future. How can such a simple device be so poorly engineered??? The whole Magnum touring capacity reservoir is an engineering joke! Two separate reservoirs because the designers couldn't be bothered to design one that fitted behind a number plate??? Allowing at least three new points where the system can fail. A priming setting which is really "Max" rather than prime? Is it that hard to have an additional setting which opens the system fully? I spent 30 minutes squeezing my hands to death (it was -1C) to get the bloody thing to finally come out the other end. And this bleeding overpriced yellow bottle with the stupid tube on it - honestly guys, is that the best you can do? It pops out at pressure higher than ducks breath and sprays stupid blue oil EVERYWHERE. And how can an 18 month old feeder tube thing be deteriorated enough to not fit properly? this means the system lasts less than the oil it contains! Insane. I shudder to think how this little company can survive. For 1.5x the money I spent buying their stupid plastic cylinder with a vacuum valve, the man from Shenzhen has delivered me a fully functioning GPS system. That I think is the scary thing. Phew. Rant over. Thanks for all your help, and apologies for venting... |
As I said previously I don't have any experience of the Scotoiler but on the understanding that it's suppossed to be a 'fit & forget' type of device then careful engineering is the least you should expect especially for the price demanded.
Good quality O ring chains these days seem to be very durable and, in normal service, I can't really believe that dripping a bit of specially formulated oil onto the outside of a chain can make an appreciable difference to its lifespan. |
i wouldnt do without my scottoiler, ive just changed my original C&S kit after 21K miles with little or no adjustment.
i dont know if WD40 would actually harm a chain, but it wouldnt be much lubrication either and i do know that it is banned at work(aircraft) because after the carrier solvent/kerosene in it has evaporated whats left attracts water from the air and is bad for corrosion. dont wait for the oiler to drip out, just put it on 'prime' and blow the tubes and reservoir empty with an empty bottle, syringe or even just blow into it with a tight fitting straw. then just refill as normal (all instructions are free to download on the website, and if you need to phone them they are very helpful) |
Plus if you disconnect the vacuum tube, suck it and seal it with your tongue, you don't even need to run the engine while priming it.
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