DRZ400 Larger tank
 

Anyone have any experience of larger tanks for drz400's? I'm guessing a 23l acerbis tank is available, but what range does that give? Alternatively what else is available and in what sizes???

Cheers in advance for the advice!

Dave

large tank
 

Hi ,here in Aus.we have a manufacture of Tanks-www.safaritanks.com.
Lots of them on Drz i have one on my DR650.Take care :thumbup1:

Core racing had a 28 L tank at Lumb farm. Have a look here.
www.coreracing.co.uk

The biggest DRZ tank I've seen (43 L !!!), along with many other sizes is available here
www.off-the-road.de/270.html?&L=1

As for tank range and fitment. That as well as many other DRZ related things are discussed here
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=25

This thread might be worth a look is well
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ange-dr-z-8472

I hope this is useful. Cheers Simon

Clarke 3.9 gal
 

I have been using Clarke 3.9 gallon tank. It is actually good for about 4.1 gallons. Simple to install, no problems over 18000 miles.
http://www.clarkemfg.com/Merchant2/m...ry_Code=suzuki

The tank is good for about 200 miles. In Mongolia and Siberia I used an additional 1 gallon flat fuel cell I put on a luggage rack.

All you needed in that area was an action radius of about 150 miles, most of the time anyway.

Cheers and good luck with the DRZ.
It is a great bike for long distance, with some mods.

Fuel Tank....
 

Hi Dave.....

I have a Safari 28L tank previously known as Aqualine the Aussie company

but was able to buy from the importer UK www.coreracing.co.uk in Yorkshire

and very helpful they were too ..........the tank is really tough and the bike

rides better than with small tank ..........

Sounds like you've put some miles on your DRZ. What would you list as the best top 10 mods for long distance off roading?

Also a question for Gatso'shy. The tank you're describing fits the E model, not the 'S'. The 'E' has neither a cooling fan or any decent rear subframe... I know I can remove the fan from the 'S' model, but is this really a good idea?

Cheers,

Dave

Dave, I had either a Clarke or an IMS on my DRz400S. Not sure which it was cos I got it s/h off eBay and it had no identifying marks. It held a good 4 galls so would give a range of 200~280 miles depending on terrain/speed/headwind etc. It fitted my S perfectly with a cutout for the fan. It had a screw filler cap, rather than a locking one. The fuel tap was taken from the standard tank and fitted well.
Having sold the bike, I tried for ages to sell it (and the Corbin seat). Eventually they both went to Scotland.

Hello Dave,

I got my tank the Ebay. No markings but believe it's 17 litres. (IMS i think)
The lobes that sit below the fuel tap hold about 1 litre each- I've yet to fit a small pipe in the tank to draw this straight up.


Tough as old boots. It fits the S model with fan in place. Standard tank is about 9 litres. Transparent has obvious advantages.

Simon (the goon in orange)

DRZ tank
 

Hi David,
you should pay more attention! :)
I had a DRZ400E tank at Lumb Farm, it was the 28ltr Aqualine SAFARI tank. They have also made a 17ltr tank for the same bike.

Aqualine can also make to order these tanks to fit the DRZ400 S also after some mould modifications.

I feel the E is the better model as the susspension is more tuneable and is a lighter bike base to start with.

I took one to Morocco last October with a 28ltr tank and both were fantastic. I recommend you change the clutch cover for a billet cover though as they are notoriously thin as standard. We punctured one but not seriously.

Regards,
Alec

Cheers for that,

As it happens I was riding a KTM at this years 'do' and was fully intending to be riding that for a few years to come......Y'know how it is though!!!

Dave

Hi guys,


I hope it's ok to revive an old post instead of creating a new one? I have a similar query, I've just ordered a 28ltr from this site:

Core Racing - Aqualine Fuel Tanks, Larger fuel tanks for Off Road Motorcycles

I've seen tanks being taken off for other models with electrics, etc, but does anyone have a link for somewhere that explains how you change the tank for a Suzuki DRZ400? Or if anyone is able to explain how it's done and what I need to watch out for?

Thanks for reading guys

You basically take seat off, then original tank is attached with 2 bolts and fuel line. Plastic "wings" that go to radiator sides must also be removed. Take these off and your tank comes off (pull it up from bolted end). Put Aqualine tank on the same place, it takes no bolts, just a rubber strap. Rubber strap may or may not come with your tank. You can order one from Suzuki (E model strap) and you need also one small metal piece where you seat attaches to (also from E model if it does not come with the tank). I can give you exact part number if you need the E parts.
Original tank may have vacuum petcock. New tank has manual one. You'll need to close one vacuum hose that went to your vacuum petcock.

If you are going to do more work on your DRZ then get Clymer manual or genuine workshop manual where all tasks (like removing tank) are described in detail.

Excellent, many, many thanks for the advise.

Just ordered that book. I own the 2007 model but I'll assume the differences can't be that big. There is one for the 2007 but it's only available for download as far as I could find (didn't want to buy the download as 331 pages is a lot of printer ink!).

Thanks again.

There are 2 manuals available:

Official 2000-2008 Suzuki DR-Z400S/SM Factory Service Manual 99500-43039-03E DR-Z400SK7
DR-Z400 DRZ400 Repair Manual Suzuki 2000-2008 Clymer M477-2 DR-Z400SK7

Both are good. If you can afford get genuine, if not get Clymer.

Thanks man, I ordered the Clymer one.

Yo Peeps!


Just fit my Safari 28L tank onto the DRZ and I've got a number of problems. The bike is struggling not to stall when stationary even after I've been driving a fair distance, and most times I've had to just keep revving it because it does keep stalling.

Not only that, but when I slow down to stop, the bike makes a number of pops and bangs which it certainly didn't before with the original tank.

Another thing, I ordered the blue tank but was assured that they were transparent no matter what colour it is... but I can't seem to see how much is in my tank unless I lift the lid up. Did anyone else get this kind of tank? I noticed people with the other colour tanks were transparent, so how come mine isn't?

I'm a tad worried about my problems.

Thanks guys,

Perhaps a breather for the tank is kinked, causing a partial vacuum?

Would you be referring to the tube that the fuel goes into after the petcock? I've noticed the tube has to bend twice and aim upwards to meet where the petrol needs to go next.

If that's the case, then maybe the tank has been fixed too low and I have to elevate it a bit upwards so the tube is straight and it needs to be flowing the fuel downwards?

I know that only white is transparent, other colors are solid. That is the reason I bought white/transparent one. ;)

The problem may be that you did not clean your tank before use and it had some plastic flakes inside from manufacturing and these are now blocking your fuel tap? Or there is problem with tap? Remove fuel hose from carb and open tap -- does fuel flows out easily? Try both ON and RES.

On more thing I forgot to add to my last response. If you had original tank before, it had vacuum operated petcock (there were 2 hoses into petcock, one for fuel and smaller for vacuum to open the petcock when engine is running). New petcock is manual if you use the one that came with new tank, so -- did you plug the vacuum hose you removed from old petcock?

Aha! No, is this vacuum thing something that's screwed between the petcock and the actual original tank?

I just took the tank back off, cleaned it out (in case of plastic inside), had a look to see if I'd knocked anything else on the bike then fit back on... no such luck.

I think it has got something to do with the tube or the petcock like you said. Is it worth trying to put original petcock onto the new tank? Or just this vacuum piece you're talking about? Also, I've noticed that came with the new tank isn't as spacious so I'll try fitting the old tube on as well, incase simply there isn't enough room for enough fuel being pumped in.

If you have 2007 UK Sm then probably you also have one additional device called PAIR valve that may not be listed in Clymer manual.

I found a few pics from the net.

This one shows vacuum lines. You probably have similar setup (I have). The one that goes to left goes to PAIR valve. These 2 at right -- one goes to carb (back top) and another goes to fuel tank petcock. Basically vacuum is taken from carb and then this vacuum goes to petcock (and PAIR system). Since you now installed manual petcock then one vacuum tube is left over. You can't leave it open, then your carb will not work properly, I guess (I'm not a specialist, sorry). You need to push something into the tube end so it is "closed". It can be a small bolt or something like that. It must be air tight, so if vacuum is in the tube, it must not get any outside air throught the plug.

http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/u...DSC00142-1.jpg


Here on next picture manual petcock is installed. Notice that there is a smaller tube visible on top of fuel line and it has a small bolt screwed into it? That is vacuum line that went to original vacuum-operated petcock and is now blocked and you should do something like that. So if you disconnected the smaller tube that went to your original petcock, just you will need to plug it's end. This vacuum tube is not needed for new manual petcock (original was automatcially opened/closed by vacuum is you started engine, now you'll need to manually operate petcock). The bike on this photo seems not to have the PAIR system, so there is no additional vacuum line that goes to left on first picture (only one line that comes from carb to petcock and now petcock end is plugged).

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...MAGE_00474.jpg

Awesome!

Job fixed thanks to your above message. That tube was just sticking out. Can't figure out how we didn't notice it was loose when we took the old tank off. Didn't even realise there was more than one tube attached to the original petcock.

I've put a screw to block the tube so that should be fine.

This is awesome. I can properly test this thing now :mchappy:

Many, many thanks my friend. :thumbup1:

Glad you got it sorted out! :thumbup1: