dr650se first gear clunk!!!
 

Hi to all.

When I select 1st gear, clutch in and engine on, i have to give it a bit of force, but not like im about to snap the shifter or anything, but if i dont, and i just press it down, it sounds like i havent got the clutch in, and when i give it some it clunks in, sounding quite loud and i can feel the clunk.

Is this normal? Is it something common with DRs, or what? Im i right to think I should inspect something?

I have the bike in the garage and Im currently servicing it, is there anything you can suggest i check or change?

Many thanks people.:thumbup1:

Perhaps too much free play at the clutch lever? Could be caused by the cable nearing the end of its life, or simple maladjustment.

Fairly common with DR's and many bikes. Sometimes synthetic oil can help.
Does your bike Clunk first thing when COLD? It should not. But once hot many DR's can clunk a bit going into first, mine does.

Do check clutch free play, making sure you are totally disengaging clutch when lever is pulled in all the way. Probably won't change much.

Try rolling forward just a bit before putting gear. Also, try holding clutch in for a 10 or 15 seconds before shifting into gear. :scooter:

The clutch plates can bind together a little if the clutch is cold and has been sitting unused for a while. That'll cause a noise. Does it happen all the time or just the first few time in a day?
Is the back wheel off the ground? If it is, with the motor off tie the clutch lever back, put it in first gear and see how difficult it is to turn the back wheel. There should only be a slight difference in how easy to turn with the bike in gear and the bike out of gear. If it's noticeably harder to turn in gear, then your clutch is not dis-engaging properly. That could be adjustment or warped plates in the clutch.

Cheers bloke,

Nigel in NZ

Decent oil helps with clunky gears. Ideally JASO MA spec oil (like Castrol ActEvo, also has the viscosity recommended for the DR), why not use motorcycle specific oil when yopu can get it? It's not that much more than the el cheapo stuff from the supermarket that looks like bitumen after 3000km ;D

Besides warped discs you often also find clutch problems with bikes that were standing for a very long time and have corrosion on the steel discs. Giveaway for warped / rusted discs is propblems to gear down (will only gear down if you push hard or blip the throttle) and a bike that tries to crawl with first engaged & clutch pulled.

My DR650 (2008) clunks into first gear also. It always has. I have about 15,000 miles on it now. It seems normal to me. ( Of course, I've had several BMW's (airheads, Kbike, F800ST) and they all clunk too.:rolleyes2:)

I've used regular moto 10W40, car 10W40, and synthetic 10/40 in it with no noticeable change in the clunk.

...............shu

I don't use "Cheapo" oil, but I do use synthetic Car oil, not Motorcycle specific oil. Mobil One Synthetic has been my choice for a few years now. I like it! And its cheap! (but not Cheapo :nono: )

No slipping clutch! I use the "Extended Use" Mobil One which does NOT have friction modifiers. Also, Mobil One labeled "High Mileage" also is OK for bikes. Both sold at Wal-Mart in 4 liter jugs.

Mobil One costs about $6 USD per liter. Most Synthetic Moto specific oil costs about $12 to $15 per liter here in the USA: Motorex, Motul, Silkolene, Repsol, Redline, Amsoil, Bel-Ray, Spectro) The Castrol ACT Evo is sold pretty cheap here, about $7 a liter (on sale). I've tried it, not close to Mobil One in the ratings.

Mobil One, so far so good in several bikes using this oil. No clutch slippage on any of my bikes. Mobil One is one the highest rated oils in the world, great for Air Cooled bikes.

A few oil changes should free up stuck clutch plates, might help clunking?

Here's another thing to check, happened to me today: the choke lever housing rotated just a bit, preventing the clutch lever from reaching full travel when squeezed. Difficulty engaging gear & finding neutral. Easy fix, but easily overlooked.

:mchappy: