DR650SE - 2-up comfort
 

Hi guys,

The DR650SE jumped out at me when I saw it in the show room and took it for a ride.

I'm planning to do an around the world trip with a pillion from Singapore to the UK

How comfortable is the bike for the pillion?

What modifications do you recommend to increase pillion comfort?

Cheers,

J

If both of you are willing you can ride just about anything.

In reality take your passenger on a ride on the bike you are looking at, go on a long day trip, at least 200 miles, spend at least 1 1/2 hrs at a time on the bike with no stops. You will then have a pretty good answer of what you have to adapt/change so that both of you are comfortable.

Comfort becomes an issue the longer you have to sit on the bike at a stretch and if you get into the 400-600 mile days then it becomes very important. Keep the passenger happy & you'll be happy.

Hi J

Here is a link to my thoughts on the DR650:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-america-53258

Similar topic on DRRiders:

Two-up Questions : General DR650 Discussion

I put a lot of time and money into my DR build for our SAmerica trip, you don't have to spend a bunch of cash to make the DR better, Id suggest upgrading the suspension and seat as a minimum - especially for riding 2up. I used a Corbin seat on the DR and Lisa had an AirHawk inflatable cushion to give her some more cushioning and room behind the seat.

As Cycleman suggests, go for a long ride and see what you can and cannot live with. Fortunately there's lots of aftermarket parts available from Procycle:

Suzuki DR650 Parts, Accessories, & Performance - ProCycle

There's also some build photos on our Blog (link in my signature) under 'Trip Prep'

Let us know how you get on.

Heres the Seat/AirHawk cushion:

http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/z...0/P1070763.jpg

1) You will need to do something with the seat!

2) see 1.

Not the greatest choice 2-up IMO, can do it, surely, but never as comfortable as a DL650, for example, and depending on routes, you could find the engine a bit lacking for 2-up and heavy load, especially on big roads. The DR650 is mostly meant to be ridden solo. YMMV.

How I dream this bike was available in the UK.

When they do come up for sale, they're either ragged or really overpriced.

Me too.

A couple of years ago, I missed the one and only one I've seen in the right condition for realistic money because I couldn't get the cash together.

It must be worth getting a few shipped in. Where are they most available; Aus or USA ?

The DR650 engine is strangled by emissions legislation - in North America the carb is set VERY lean and has an EPA blanking cap over the fuel screw, luckily with this removed and the mixture richer, the carb jetted, slide drilled, needle raised, air box opened up and a free flowing exhaust (GSXR 1000) fitted the DR650 is transformed and has plenty of grunt for 2 up riding with full panniers. A lot of guys fit a TM 40 pumper carb too and you can buy big bore kits and big valve heads for the DR - lots of upgrades available out there.

With a 16 tooth front sprocket my DR will sit at 70 mph all day even at altitude - true compared to a multi cylinder (V Strom 650 for example) bike it doesn't have the overtaking ability at higher speeds, but with some work the engine really pulls well for a 650 Thumper and I can still get 75 mpg if I cruise at 60 - 65 mph/ 100 - 105 kmh

Seat for 2 up
 

I would not put the DR650 on a list of good bikes to do 2 up long distance. For solo riding its great although I did have my seat re shaped as the standard was not good for my bum.

For some reason using it 2 up it just doesn't work. The seat seems short and the rider gets all hunched up. Friends of ours did RTW 2 up on a 660 Tenere with no issues.

When we did Australia to UK my 'mods I wished I'd done' was 1. Better seat, 2. Better brakes. The XT has both

Best of luck

Cheers

A struggle 2up
 

I have a DR in New Zealand. Probably standard US spec. I weigh 90 kg and with 2 panniers it starts to run out of power near 100 km on any slope or head wind. I would say it's too small and lacks grunt for 2up

I´m not questioning the DR´s ability at all. Just saying, that a twin (such as DL650) is, by design, better suited for two-up touring. Downside is, it´s also a heavy (and top-heavy) pig by design, and suffers, when it gets to any surfaces with little traction. But at least for me, if I go two-up then I´ll stick to anything that even remotely resembles a road. For this, the DL is still very capable.

Pecha72

I totally agree with you, the V Strom is a far better 2up bike on asphalt, more room, more power, smoother, faster , 6 gears, ABS etc etc.

I am just trying to point out that the DR engine can be improved quite easily with fairly inexpensive modifications.

I nearly bought a V Strom for SAmerica 2up, but went with the DR, which is far from perfect 2up, but as long as the rider and pillion are not too tall/big it CAN do it, its also cheaper to buy, simple to maintain and repair when crashed, lighter and handles better on gravel.

Thought needs to be put into what you will do with the bike AFTER your trip, if you are going to sell it overseas and lose money why buy an expensive bike? I use my DR currently for long weekend dirt trips riding solo carrying camping gear - on rough loose gravel/rocky doubletrack forestry roads - much more fun on a DR than a V Strom.

The DR's brakes can be improved easily with a steel braided front hose - or a larger disk kit - or both. The Yamaha XTZ660 is a great bike, unfortunately Yamaha doesn't sell them in North America - I know they sell them in Russia, probably in rest of Asia as well, worth looking at too for the OP.

The DR has compromises like any other bike, but for the OP's trip from Singapore to the UK - as long as they are both not too big physically - with a few modifications it will be a good choice.

Ignore this simple fact at your peril - it's :funmeterno: with a complaining pillion who you can't ditch.

I just bought a DR :)
Going to change the seat, get a safari tank and maybe change the position of the pillion handles

Well Done!

:funmeteryes:

I have a DR 650 and it has many good features. The engine does not have a lot of power or torque for two up riding in my opinion. I only ride solo. The seat can be an issue in terms of comfort. If you look at the stock seat you will notice it narrows and thins out at the pillion area. I think this can limit effectiveness for the pillion. The seat can be modified without a lot of money.

I find the seat ok but to get around the lack of comfort I ride with bike nicks (lightly padded insert)and a set of foam padded shorts made for off-road riders, under my riding gear. Works for me.

The bike is really a good bike - light weight; simple; no fuel injection and can maintain 100kph with the load; easy on fuel. etc. It does need (and I have) a safari tank; extra carry racks; tool carriers and tube carrier on the front mud guard.

For two up I think I would look at the V Strom. The twin cylinder motor provides more power and torque and will rev out better. Bike is a bit heavier than a DR however. Looked at these but for weight I chose the DR. A GS is a great touring bike (I have one) but too heavy when the going gets a bit technical.


M

Some good posts on the DR650's two up ability! bier
I've owned both the Vstrom and DR ... and must admit, unless A LOT of off road riding is intended, then a DL650 (or something similar) may be the better travel bike riding two up.

As Grif mentioned, if pilot and pillion are small folk and pack lite and a GOOD aftermarket seat is installed, it could work .... But RTW is a very long ride. Petite pillions fit fine on my DR with the wide Corbin seat. I am not a big guy either, so that helps. Large humans will not do so well. And then you've got to deal with luggage and packing for two. doh

Two up I can still easily hold a true 70 mph. Power falls off in the mountains over about 2500 meters and aggressive passing is limited. At slower speeds on tight paved roads, its fine and fine riding technical dirt roads as well, even two up loaded.

At that is where a DR650 will pay it's way ... on technical, slippery, rutted or rocky dirt roads, it will out pace a Vstrom and many other larger bikes. Torque is very good for 650 single with simple minor Carb/air box/Exhaust mods, all DIY. So if lots of dirt riding is the plan ... then the DR could work out.

By the way ... a DR650 is roughly 100 lbs. (45 kgs.) lighter weight than a DL650. Maybe this would help?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...0/IMG_1390.jpg

Thats a great trailer you've got there. Hadn't thought of doing that. Where did you get it from?

That is Big Al's bike. He did a fly and ride from Seattle to down South somewhere. The Seller through in the trailer. Not sure who makes it ... but there are several outfits doing lightweight trailers for dual sport/dirt bikes.

Find Big Al's ride report here and PM him. Perhaps he can provide info the trailer? ... or maybe he'll sell it to you? He pulled it all the way cross country with NO ISSUES. (he and his buddy rode DR650's to Tierra del Fuego ... but no trailer)

I appreciate the thought but I'm in Australia

That was going to be my next question, how does it handle RTW?

Juast brought a DR650RS
 

Hi, I am in the UK and just brought a DR650RS 2001 model, I was a bit unsure about the 650, I was going for a newer DR400, but a friend told about a DR650 he knew was good and going at a good price, I loved the bike when I saw it, they are rare in the UK, this one was owned by a bike nut who has stripped it and powder coated everything! frame, swinging arm etc., I was really happy with the bike, then I went to a Trail riders federation meeting, first time, they are the guys to know, but was told people buy big bikes as a compensation for a small "" well I got I bit put out by it and questioned my purchase! but I love it, and don’t give a f##k after reading the post on here, I think my gut feeling was right and the most important thing is to love the bike you ride, yer a CRF or KTM would have been more sensible for TRF stuff, but I want to get familiar with big bikes off road and hope to do a big trip, Thanks!
Kind Regards
Andy

and we want the XT660 and Transalp over here

If you have a DR650RS ... then you've I believe you got a different model DR than the one shown in this thread. (DR650SE) Take a look at the other DR650SE pics shown in this thread ... is your bike like those?

The DR650 RS model is a totally different bike. No interchangeable parts.

It's also news to me that Suzuki still even made the RS in 2001. That model was discontinued here in the USA in 1995 or '96. Perhaps production was continued in UK and EU? Dunno?

For more info, check out the Zen Seeker page:
Suzuki DR650 History Page

Hi
 

http://www.segurojoven.com/img/ficha...R-650-RS-3.jpg
Mines the same as this only with full engine bars fitted, the logbook says DR650SE, the bike is an DR650RS? 2001, but these were all imported to the UK, prob. from New Zealand?

Had a look at Zens page
 

I think mines the 1991? because it was imported the log book is probably quoting the the year it was imported to the UK?

I have no idea what was imported or what bike was called what in the UK. What I do know is that bike IS NOT a DR650SE.

The bike above is a totally different bike. Different motor, swingarm, frame, forks ... and more. Take a CLOSE look at the SE model (from 1996 onward) and you can see the differences. Not much support for the pre '96 S models here in USA, maybe better in UK? Good luck with it!
bier

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...P1020387-L.jpg
Left side, 2006 DR650SE. No changes since 1996.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...0/P1020513.JPG
This is the right side of my bike after a 4000 mile trip through Baja .. so it's a bit dirty after a month on the road.
Is this your motor?

Nope
 

Thanks for the reply, I have got confused due to the log book! imported bikes seem to be registered a little different? it's registered as a DR650SE, I think the SE means special edition?
It's a 1991 DR650RS, identical to the pic, apart from a few edition bits, parts don’t seem to be an issue on eBay! yet! lol, it's got a 21lt tank as standard, and I’m really happy with it! done 30'000 miles.
The tyres are very similar to yours, how do you find the off-road riding with them? at the trail riders meeting I was recommended to fit a good set of off-road tyres, the ones I have are brand new, I'm not changing anything until I have tried it out first.
I was pleased to see people using the DR650 as an adventure bike! that’s what really made my day!!!! it’s exactly what I thought it should do well! I paid £1350!! for the bike, it’s had a bolts up rebuild, good to go! if you’re interested I can post a few more pics, when the sun shows itself!
My intention is to learn the basics for off-road riding, on the road repairs, kit etc., I don’t have the cash for a BMW, or new bike, especially as I am likely to drop it a few times in a ditch, (hope not!)

I´m no expert on DR650-models, but I do know there are at least two, and probably three very different models.. (and yes, even their engines ARE different).

Suzuki´s model naming policy is sometimes just weird. Well, at least they don´t have a ´650´ or ´700´ that is actually an 800...... :rofl:

It's all good! You got a good deal on your bike. I'd go onto ADV Rider, Thumpers forum. Find the pre 1996 DR650 thread. Lots of good info for you!
Pre '96 Suzuki DR650S - ADVrider
Also, go to DRRiders.com forum. There they have a pre 1996 forum ... just for your bike. Ask questions, read and find solutions! :thumbup1:
Pre-96 DR650 Forum

Tires sizes are the same as post '96 DR650SE:
90/90-21" front, 120 or 130-17 rear.

Tires like Conti TKC 80 are expensive but work well off road. They wear out quickly however. Also, Michelin T-66 is a popular off road tire that comes in your bikes size. There are a few others ... look around. (Maxxis, Shinko, more) Regular knobbies are good too ... but the rear size is a bit rare.
You could switch up to a 18" rear wheel which would mean hundreds of knobby tire choices.

Good luck! bier

Right! Pre 1996 Suzuki Japan made at least 3 model variations going back into the late 1980's. A bit confusing for sure. (See Zenseeker : http://dr650.zenseeker.net/DR650History.htm )

In 1996 Suzuki introduced the DR650SE ... which pretty much superseded ALL previous DR models. And, far as I know ... is now the ONLY DR650 model in production save the Suzuki Freewind.

Nothing has changed with the bike since 1996. This means lots of cheap parts, owner and after market support available. The "new" (post '96) DR650SE was never imported to the UK. Some EU countries did import it for a while but stopped years ago. (not sure on exact years, country to country)

Australia and NZ both got the DR650SE all along, continue to import it today. And of course it continues for sale in the USA and Canada largely unchanged since 1996.

Starting 5 to 7 years ago, several S. American countries began importing the DR650 ... at first as Police bikes, but now are for sale with VERY high import tariff. (at least 100% ... or more)

Also, Suzuki now has an assembly plant in Colombia where several Suzuki models are put together. DL650 and DR650SE are two confirmed models, probably others as well.

DR650SE's were discontinued in UK and EU due to not meeting Euro zone pollution standards. (uses a Carb vs. F.I.) So far, American Suzuki have managed to lean out the DR650SE enough to pass our ever more stringent US EPA and California CARB smog regulations. But how much longer? :(

Suzuki claims to be working on an "ALL NEW" version of the DRZ400S.
When? No one is talking ATM.
:scooter:

Yeah you've got the older RS model, I had a German '93 650RSE model similar to yours, it was a good bike, but totally different to our post 96 650SE bikes. I racked up a lot of kms riding it all over Europe and even ragged the crap out of it around the Nürburgring quite a few times when I was living in Germany, before some F*&k#r stole it in the UK. :(

Watch the wheel and cush drive bearings as the factory ones are a bit weak, and the design is poor on the cush drive (like our SE bikes) I had a couple wear out in a few years, make sure they are well packed with grease, apart from that it was a pretty good bike, enjoy!

45,000kms 2up on a DR650
 

I'm not sure if this is still relevant..

I've travelled two up with my girlfriend from Cape Town to Ethiopia and had a few other East African trips as well.

I'll always go for the simplicity and comfort of the DR, with a Corbin and Alaska sheepskin it's the best RTW bike for me.

Al.

It's true ... a good quality wide seat truly transforms the DR650 ... I harp on this all the time ... you can't really judge the DR's two up ability fairly with the crap stock seat.

My leather Corbin shown below has seen 55,000 miles, done many 400 mile days, back to back to back. Remarkable really.

I've not done much two up, but when I've ridden with a "normal" sized pillion things get tight. But my girlfriend is just 5', 105 lbs. so she fits on there OK. I'm only 5'7", 185 lbs. Bigger folks will would need to extend the seat longer, onto the rear rack ... or ? :confused1:

The Corbin is firm but somehow works on a long day. Many other companies now offering good seat alternatives (or seat kits like Seat Concepts) for the DR650. Just a basic mod ... has to be done! bier

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...17_95pcq-L.jpg

DR650 2 up
 

I have 2008 DR650 that I have been using as a backroads travel bike for just over 2 years now. In my opinion, riding a DR 2 up on a long trip would be similar to using a 250 solo - something that is becoming increasing popular as people realize that low cost, light weight, and simplicity are often more important then power:funmeteryes:.

Stock the DR is so-so, built to a budget (but at least built to a budget and priced accordingly!). However, as many have already pointed out there is fantastic aftermarket support for suspension, tanks, seats, etc. as the bike has been pretty much unchanged since 1996.

In my opinion, the DR would be a good 2 up choice for the following situations:

1. You and your back seat companion are relatively small and short. The DR is one of the few 'dirt bikes' with an accessible seat height, and can be easily lowered.
2. You are looking for a low cost starting point. Fuel economy is good, overall running costs are low. In North America these bikes are comparatively cheap new and used, and in general the tanks, seats, suspension mods required are affordable as well. I figure that a DR can be pretty well set up for travel (including suspension & luggage) for $2000-$3000 if you can install parts yourself, much less if you can live with the stock suspension - but IMO there are very few bikes with stock suspension that is up to an RTW trip, and I wouldn't consider the DR650 2 up without at least replacing springs front and rear.
3. Your intended riding terrain is rough and the ~100+ pounds that a GS800 or 1200 type bike adds will be more of a hindrance then the extra HP will be a help.

Personally, I like the DR650 because it is sized and priced like a 250 and I can manage it off road much better then I can taller/ heavier bikes. 99% of the time I don't miss the extra HP of a bigger bike, but I always appreciated the low weight.

Having said that If you and your partner are larger/ taller, a bigger bike will probably offer quite a bit more comfort and carrying capacity.

Good post! :thumbup1:
But it's important to point out that "built to a budget" should not be misconstrued as "Cheap". The Suzuki's DR650 motor is one of the best ... if not THE best single cylinder motors ever built by anyone.

Hard to match it's utter simplicity combined with modern utility. Really quite impressive for a design from 1995. The SACS Air/Oil cooling system means the DR can go many thousands of hard miles with just minimal maintenance. It really can take a hammering. Trust me.

The "budget" part (as you've pointed out) is more reflected in the mid level suspension components. But at least Suzuki had the vision to use a nice, stout 43mm fork (Compare to other bikes out there today)
That KYB fork has potential and with valves & springs is not bad.

The rest is just plain old Good Japanese Quality and superior Design. As an example, compare electrics with any BMW single or KTM. The Suzuki is a simpler and more reliable design.

The chassis and rear sub frame is another stand out area. "Cheap" bikes don't get such good frames (like the KLR) ... I'd put the DR's frame and sub frame against BMW/KTM singles ridden loaded up on rough roads for 50,000 miles any day. There is Cheap and then there is Good Value! :D

"There is Cheap and then there is Good Value"

Agreed! Re-reading my post I certainly don't want to suggest that the DR is a poor bike, far from it. IMO it is the best choice out there for the type of riding I do, which is just about everything. Out of the crate it doesn't perform at the level of a more modern design like a KTM 690, but then it is almost half the price. Ironically, even a 690 needs work to be a decent travel bike.

The DR650 is a great starting point, and can be cost effectively developed into a very capable travel bike as long as you can work with ~40 HP and a 225 watt alternator. There are very few 'issues' (NSU switch, rear drive seal, upper chain roller, soft springs, poor seat) with the design and these are well documented and easily fixed quite cheaply. Even the potentially weak 3rd gear has a fix if you really want to reduce all risks of failure.

After living with the DR for a couple of years now, I am more confident about it's combined reliability and capability to get me anywhere :Beach::palm: then any other bike currently on the market.

Spot on Timo!
I guess we're both kind of "preaching to the choir" here. :smiliex:
Most everything about the DR has been said already. But hard to over emphasize the great versatility of the DR650. As you've said, all bikes need upgrades for LD travel. The DR is no exception, but costs are relatively low.

I'm amazed at the number of converts that have come over from BMW's, KLR's and even KTM 640's and Huskies.

Oddly, one weak area is the point of this thread: It's NOT a great bike two up, the reasons already made clear many posts back in this thread. But as stated, for some smaller riders traveling light, it can work. :thumbup1:

We've now fully kitted out our new DR650 for a RTW trip.

I'm noticing the side stand is too long when the bike is fully loaded, the bike sits almost vertical with stock suspension compressed.

We have a major concern than some people are pointing out to us - the gear box.

A bike dealership in Sydney say they have seen 3 different DR650 riders who have had to pull out of their RTW trip midway through because of gearbox issues, usually 3rd gear specifically. They said it usually blows up during acceleration with riders accidentally missing a gear on the way up. Whilst the engine is indestructible, the DR650s gearbox was never designed for all the extra weight associated with RTW luggage, safari tanks etc.

This was news to me and may have changed my decision to go with a DR650 for a 2-up RTW trip.

Cheers,

J

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Look a bit deeper ...
 

If you look into to the "3rd gear" issue you'll find some interesting history, facts, speculation and fantasy.
Below I quoted back something I wrote back in 2012, below that is a link to the ADV Rider thread on the subject. Below that ... a list of reported failures. As stated, very few of these guys ever posted details or ever posted on ADV Rider, so it's sort of "heresay evidence" from one very bitter guy.

I also make the point of all the failures in Australia vs. very few in USA. I attribute this to how the bike is used down under. Turns out DR's are raced and even used on Moto Cross tracks. TIP: The DR650 was NEVER made to withstand racing or Cross Country race events. Not in it's DNA.

Also note that with most of the listed failures we don't know if it was the NSU bolt that came loose and ruined the engine or if, in fact, 3rd gear actually broke. Hard to tell after the fact ... but MOST Of the guys listed apparently never did the simple preventative FIX of securing the NSU bolts with Loc-Tite.

If you believe in percentages ... then you should probably relax. Go easy on your bike, don't LUG the motor, don't bang shifts ... and DO the NSU fix! :thumbup1: All good.

American Suzuki sell around 5,000 DR650's every year in USA (give or take 10%) and have done since 1996. There are around 1700 Suzuki dealers in the USA. The number of 3rd Gear failures is small when put against overall units out there. (about 90,000 units, give or take)

The fact the Oz and NZ units fail has, IMHO, more to do with use/abuse than product failure.


"Nordie boy seems to be the "keeper of the stats" on this issue. Below is "The List" of blow ups. Posted back in Feb, 2012. There may be more current updates, dunno. (it's a big thread!)

Question: Are we sure everyone of these so called 3rd gear blow ups was actually 3rd gear letting go? Or could it have been an NSU bolt come loose and wrecked havoc? Once metal starts bashing round in a gear box ... may be hard to tell where it started or what let go first. Did everyone of the reports include a total tear down of the motor? There is a reason I ask this. (see below *)

Funny, I've only ever heard or seen posts from a few of the guys listed below. Perhaps they post on the OZ forums and not ADV? On the 16 million view/90K post BIG DR650 thread on ADV Rider, in 8 years I've seen only about 6 reports of either NSU or 3rd gear failures. What does that tell you?

Note of the 28 listed, only 8 are from the USA. Yet the USA accounts for 40 times more DR sales annually than Oz and NZ combined. Oz/NZ are a tiny spec of the market ...yet somehow account for a majority of the "problem". Why?

*Actually ... our '96 DR650 should be added to the list. Problem is I can't confirm whether it was an NSU problem or 3rd gear problem. Sold off the broken engine to someone who needed a case, never fully opened it up, just removed from frame. Never heard what the problem was or if it was even identifiable. I did pull on side cover and saw inside was a disaster. I feel this is exactly what most owners do ... and they go no further to investigate.

Based on what we know in terms of blow ups (probably somewhat under reported in the USA) and putting that against the number of DR650's Suzuki has sold in the USA since 1996 ... I'd place the 3rd gear blow-up percentage at less than one percent among USA bikes."

Find 3rd Gear Blow up thread here:
DR650 3rd gear blowups - ADVrider


Originally Posted by NordieBoy
Another one.
From Oz, the land of the low mileage blowups.

DR650 3rd Gear Blowups...

NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km
Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km
Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km
Mardy (US) 1997 53,000km
Haddon (NZ) 1999 40,000km
RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km
Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km
BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km
Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km
briangv99 (AU) 2006 21,000km
bluebye (US) 2004 37,000km
Coyote X (US) 2007 33,800km
DRjoe (AU) 1997 100,000km
DRJens (SE) 2001 23,000km
DRjoe (AU) 2003 15,000km
Miniroot (NZ) 2007 39,200km
Helicopter (NZ) 2002 ???km
Klay (US) 2001 29,000km
RobTheButch (AU) 2007 17,000km
Ganjora (??) 2009 36,857km
shdashley (AU) 2006 17,500km
Scary fish (AU) 2010 21,000km
MrHilux (AU) 2007 7,000km
cva4259 (US) 2010 22,500km
ChromeSux (US) 2003 13,000km
Willson (FR) 2007 40,000km
Chupas (US) 2009 34,000km
002 (AU) 2002 18,500km

I'm not familiar with the Loc-Tite method of fixing the NSU. I thought the NSU issue was the rarest of rare occurrences. I wonder if there is a better explanation to why Aussie DRs are doing this.

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NSU issues not rare at all. But Failures caused by errant NSU bolts ARE rare.

You can read reports from hundreds of DR650 owners who have checked their NSU bolts ... and found them quite loose. Loose, but not missing!

Starting in round 2011 ... Suzuki changed the NSU bolts from a JIS head to an Allen. Also, on newer bikes these bolts have been found to be consistently TIGHTER than in previous years. Not sure if Suzuki are applying Loc Tite at the factory or not (they should do!)

Pre 2011 owners would find NSU bolts quite loose ... even from new.
Suzuki don't tighten NSU bolts very tight because it bears down on a plastic spacer ... which can crack if NSU bolts are over tight. Make sense?

So what owners do is to either use Loc-Tite on the bolts ...or...safety wire the bolts in place. (total overkill IMO). I found the NSU bolts loose on my 2006 DR650, used RED loc-tite on bolt threads. Easy fix.

If you re-read my post above ... you'll note my "theory" about why the OZ bikes have most of the problems. If you follow the OZ DR forums, ADV Rider and others where the DR is discussed, you'll learn about how the bike is used in Australia and New Zealand.
To them, it's a "Race on Sunday, Drive to work on Monday" bike. :oops2: I've followed the DR threads and forums since 2006 ... after a while a pattern emerges.

That's reassuring. I have a 2013 model, bought new for this trip. Would you agree that I shouldn't need to worry about the NSU bolt? I'm quite conservative and cautious on the road, but I feel I'm carrying a bit too much luggage. It is a sloppy gear shift accident at 80kph from 4th to 5th with a pillion and full luggage going up a steep hill with headwind which is my biggest worry.

While on the topic, would you go for a windshield for a RTW trip? Or is it just a noisy pain in the a**? The wind resistance against my body at over 90kph is the only aspect which is leading me to weigh this one up.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

If you're concerned about loose NSU bolts, then I'd check. It's unlikely they are loose ... but it's just NOT a big deal to pull off the right side clutch cover and check. If not tight ... then remove bolts, add Loc tite ... and replace ... tightly but not over tight!

The DR has plenty of power and isn't too concerned about what gear you're in. Just so you know ... you can actually wind it up to 85 mph in 4th gear with stock gearing! :clap: Yes ... I've done it. Top speed is only 105 mph on a good day.

Overloading is a constant challenge for travelers. Re-think every thing you carry. Will you camp? SO MANY travelers carry a TON of camping gear ...
and then never use it. Certain areas camping is just not practical or even safe.

Wind:
The DR is remarkably stable in most wind. I did have trouble in Baja when Desert winds kicked up to over 60 knots, strongest wind I ever rode in. ... it came in strong gusts so would catch you out.

In a typical head wind, down shift to 4th and don't be afraid to rev it and run hard into wind. Fuel economy will plunge but the DR motor won't mind one bit. It's just so tough. It does like good oil.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...0/P1020483.JPG
High winds in Baja blew rock of this fresh road cut onto road. Blocked road to cars. You can't tell from pic ... but wind was a steady 40 knots with 60 knot gusts that blew me and the DR across the road. I just went slow.
No problemo.

Windshield:
Lots of DR riders run a shield. Several good ones for sale in Aus.

I am not fond of a shield for two reasons:
1. Wind noise. Very hard to set for quiet air. No shield means fairly quiet, steady air flow. But I have a strong neck and can cruise at 80 mph for 10 hours a day. Others tune the shield and get it spot on for a quiet ride. :thumbup1:

2. I hate looking through a shield riding off road. Sure, I could adapt ... but prefer not having it there.

This is ALL preference. If riding it very cold weather, a shield makes a lot more sense. I ride California and Mexico ... rarely cold.

More later ... bier

DR 2 up
 

If you are really concerned about the potential 3rd gear problem, Procycle in the US is now selling a replacement 3rd Gear kit for about $600US:
Suzuki DR650 Parts, Accessories, & Performance - ProCycle
I'm not sure how involved it would be changing the gears, but if my old BMW G/S is anything to go on:confused1:, you might want to have a shop do that for you. At a minimum you would want a shop manual on hand.

As to doing the NSU switch, I'd go ahead and take care of that if I were you. Despite that fact that there is a reported change in the newer bikes, I have not seen any confirmation that the screws are sufficiently secured on newer DR's. It is an easy preventative fix. A couple of notes:
1) It can be done without removing the clutch, but you might have to bend or fabricate some tools to remove/ install the screws (I welded a small bit onto an old flat head screw driver, at the right angle to get at the screws which are under the lip of the clutch basket).

2) I preemptively ordered the gasket for the clutch side, but found that my existing gasket was fine for re-use. If you have access to a local shop and the time to wait if you have to order, you might find it comes off without tearing.
3) if you can't work the screws out without removing the clutch, then maybe they are in there tight enough anyway.

I cannot explain the unusual amount of failure attributed to southern Hemisphere DR's. I find it hard to believe that it is caused by any specifically localized hard use, but I can't refute that either. There are lots of DR's in North America that are 'ridden hard and put away wet' as well. Racing? well, you got me there - I don't know of anyone racing a DR in my neck of the woods, but I'm sure it's been done.

On the DR forums I frequent it seems to be accepted as one of the engine's few, but very rare failure areas. That being said, I'd be surprised if there is a bike out there without a few issues that could end a trip. From what I know, DR's rarely fail other then from old age or poor maintenance.

Windshield - Very personal decision. I took a small universal on my first long trip, and ended up strapping it on the back for most of the days. As Mollydog said, it just made the noise/ wind blast worse, and I didn't really notice any reduced fatigue. However, for my next trip I ordered a shorter fiberglass 'dual sport fairing' that replaces the front number plate style headlight on the DR. It is sold by ADV Monster, and is designed to completely replace the DR's front headlight with two LED lights of your choice. In my case, it has provided 3 benefits:
1) a bit more wind protection, without buffeting or a shield I can't see over easily off-road. Nice and quiet, takes the wind off my chest, helmet is in 'clean' air.
2) The stock light on the DR is, well, not that great (truthfully, most bikes have lousy lights, because one 55 watt bulb isn't enough - cars get two, so we should get 110 watts right?!).
3) but, you can't just add more lights because 225 Watts is all you have (and you do want heated grips and/ or the possibility of a heated vest right?).

So by adding 2 35 watt LED lamps with an adjuster on the low beam to dial it down for safe hwy use, I save a significant 35 watts of power, and get much better lighting (or have all 60 watts on and get 'daytime' type lighting).

advmonster

I'd recommend this, but there are other screens that can work well too, so I am told. Good luck!

Hi Folks,

I've been lurking on this thread for a while now. Gipper and I are both friends and ride DR's here in Alberta.
Last year I rode my 2004 DR650 around the world with about 90lbs of luggage, a whining third gear and an XT600 for a companion. Our combined blog can be read at Round the World 2013 on motorbikes and you can see more information about the modifications i did to My Dr (Twiggy) at MotoExped - Home if you want.
To me, the most important thing was to get the suspension right. I ran a Safari tank on mine and needed to deal with all that weight over the front forks when the tank was full.
Keep it simple though. :)
..........and best wishes on ALL your travels! get out there and have fun! :)

Nevil

My 3rd gear whines as well! (has done since about 20K miles, now over 55K miles)

90 lbs. of luggage! Wow! Did you do a lot of camping? Cooking your own food?
I totally understand your support of good suspension when carrying such a load!
:thumbup1: Night and day with a heavily loaded bike!

I've whittled my load down to about 50 lbs. of junk ... but no camping gear. Lots of times I carry a rear tire.

And don't forget to add shop labor time to that figure. Then consider that NO ONE I know of has done this mod ... and there is Zero evidence that the new gears are even a "solution" at all. Even the Pro Cycle guy admits this. Shop labor would be at least 10 hours.

Excellent notes on doing the NSU fix! bier

If you follow the Aussie guys you can see they tend to use their DR's as race bikes more than North America, where most are used as commuters and weekend explorers. Lots of videos, posts and pics showing evidence of this. The Aussies also do a lot of Cross Country Out Back Adventure rides. That is some pretty tough riding ... based on some of the pics and videos I've seen. Extreme use, IMO.

Agreed, stock light is pathetic on a really dark road. I thought the DR output was around 200 Watts, not 225 watts? In any case .. it ain't much. My solution was an HID kit from DDM Tuning. It's a single bulb, 35 watt unit. So I pick up an extra 15 watts right away. It does help when running my Gerbing (77 Watts) and heated grips (about 30 watts on Hi)
The HID is at least 3 times brighter than stock light. Going on 4 years, no problems. Spare HID bulb just $12. Whole kit just $30!!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h...0/P1020182.JPG
Stock 55 Watt, H-4 light
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...0/P1020201.JPG
DDM Tuning 35 Watt, single bulb HID ... B R I G H T !!! :D

Jaykay,

Any updates on your trip and how the DR650 is performing?

/Users/debbieniblett/Desktop/dr650.JPG