Best tank Choice for DR
 

G'day....names greg and I'm in a prep session for my DR650 (13 Mod). Looking at tank replacement. I have a particular trip in mind and have been looking at a Safari (30ltr) or an Ascerbis (25ltr). Has anyone had issues with these (I am aware of the many things written on other forums about issues all of which are denied by dealerships who fit them, when fronted with the concerns). So which is a better one to go? Part of my trip is across the Tanami and apart from fuel at an early roadhouse its a bit of a gap to the next - either tank would get me there with my backup 12ltr collapsible fuel cell - (Safari obviously will have more left in it) - but neither would get me past that fuel stop to the next.
Once on the tar at Halls creek it's not a problem - the standard tank with the fuel cell would get me home BUT is there significant fitting issues with either tank option? Is the safari a bit of a brute for riding off road (formed desert tracks)? Does it make it difficult for control with fuel 'slopping' around in it when half full? I have a suspension upgrade to do (front and rear) to beef the bikes load capacity but handling control is a concern. Some have alluded to this issue of control in overseas blogs but most of the other blogs mention very little about this. I'm getting a bit long in the tooth and rusty with off road travel (years since last trips). I'm happy with gearing and exhaust - I think the bike is running as best for economy as it is standard.
My lawnmower has a decibel rating on it and I don't want my bike louder that it - the helmet is noisy enough. I ride slow and steady these days 3rd & 4th gear mostly on the tracks abt 60kph enough for me - can't afford anymore broken bones) so I don't want to change front and rear sprockets although it will improve slightly fuel but not significant enough (the object is to get from one 'water hole' to the next and I can do that with either of the tank options). On the tar it's a different matter; sometimes the horns pop up and I give it some stick. Other changes are handles bars and bark busters of some sort - perspex screen (Feel like 'the parachute' at the moment) - suspension, engine plate - and something has gotta happen with the seat!!

So is there somethong you can tell me about this? Hope to hear from someone. :euro:

Hi Greg......
I bought a new 20 litre Acerbis tank for my dr, then a short time later got the chance to buy a good second hand Safari 30 litre tank at a good price.

My original plan was to use the 30 litre tank for longer trips only, but since fitting it and doing a trip to Namibia, i haven't changed back to the 20 litre tank.
I really like the extra fuel capacity and i think it also looks better, so it will probably stay.

The only problem that i have encountered so far is that the front brace tends to rattle on the frame a bit if there are serious corrugations in the road. Other than that no issues at all.

Cheers.

Dave.

Check Australian DR650 specific forums, read more opinions about this. Aussie DR Riders from ADV Rider and DR Riders, report PLENTY of fitting issues with Safari's ... also, a few leaks, cracks and bad petcocks.

The 25 ltr. Acerbis is new, so I'm not up to date on that one ... but so far no negative reports. The first Acerbis tank for the DR (about 20 liters) has had no problems that I've heard of. :confused1:
No problems with my IMS tank either.

To remove the Safari, appears to be more hassle with cross braces/hardware and perhaps dual fuel taps? I would go with the tank that fits the bike best and allows best access to carb and engine without having to pull it off. Don't worry about sloshing fuel, not an issue.

I have the US made IMS tank. (19.6 liter) I bought it used for $100 usd. It's hit the ground hard a dozen times ... no problems. Acerbis the same.

I like the look of the Acerbis tanks best, (more modern, suits the bike). Also, I believe the Safari is a lot more money than the Acerbis? Not sure on prices in Australia. :confused1:

Several Aussie DR riders claim that you can buy either tank from Pro Cycle (USA) for cheaper than you can buy either in Oz.!!! :eek3:

Sounds unbelievable ... but it's true as told by several Aussie DR owners who did it. Pro Cycle offer really GOOD service down under. Look them up.
Read up the Aussie forums for confirmation.

New seat is A MUST for travel, IMHO. I have a Corbin and love it. But Many Many choices out there. Seat Concepts is the cheapest but I don't think it's the best based on my test ride comparisons with my Corbin.

If you load up heavy I'd think serious about suspension upgrades. It's costly but will really help bikes behavior ON and OFF road. :thumbup1:

Also, if your speeds are fairly low (as you suggest) when riding off road, I HIGHLY recommend at least a 14T front sprocket. It's an easy "in the field" change from the stock 15T down to 14T, no worries at all. A good set of knobbies a must for off road/deep sand. The DR is actually pretty good in sand with right tires and stiffer springs fitted. :thumbup1:

To learn everything in the world about DR650's go to the ADV Rider big DR650 thread ... started by an Australian from Perth in 2006. It would take two years to read it all ... so take it in bits and pieces, sign up and ask questions. LOTS OF knowledge there.

the DR650 thread - ADVrider

bier

Hi Greg,

Ive run a Safari tank on the DR for about 4 years now, I don't notice fuel 'slopping' around at all but when it is full it puts quite a bit of weight up front which doesn't do much for the handling on soft sand/deep gravel.

fitting/removing can be done in about 10 minutes, if the tank is full when you refit it the lobes will sag a little bit and it can be a bit fiddly to get the 10mm bolts through the cross brace and into the tank threads on each side, but it just takes some practice.

a few points worth noting:

-the carb fuel inlet should be turned 90 deg left to let the tank drain fully.

-extra rubber washers should be used between the cross brace and tank otherwise the brace can rub on the tank.

- the bolt on wiring clamps/retainers on the frame each side close to the headstock should have the tops trimmed back as they rub on the inside of the tank.

-it can be difficult to push the tank forwards enough to get the 2 rear securing bolts into the frame sometimes, you can use a tyre lever into the front seat retainer tab to lever the tank forward a bit.

-The locking Acerbis cap that you can buy does not vent well, unless you are really worried about someone tampering with your gas, use the stock one that comes with the tank.

- After a while it will stretch out, I can squeeze ~37 litres into mine now, good for 700-800kms depending on elevation/terrain/load/how much WFO throttle I use :)

- The Safari tank restricts the turning lock quite a bit, for tight tracks it is not ideal trying to pull a U turn.

Would I buy the Safari tank again ? Yes

For a long trip I prefer to have my fuel in one place, you will have enough luggage/food and water on the back end already.

You can run the Safari tank with 20-25 litres most of the time and full when you have to, personally I like having a long range and not worrying about running out of gas.

As for durability, my DR has been down quite a bit, including a few big crashes and cartwheels, the Safari tank is a bit scratched, but Ive had no issues with it leaking at all.

I think the Acerbis 25 litre would be fine too with a fuel bladder/rotopax on the back, the DR would probably handle a BIT better in softer sand, but with the front suspension sorted out it wont make THAT much difference.


As for running the bike stock, I did that around South America, (apart from removing the EPA blanking plug, fitting an extended fuel screw and a Twinair filter) but I wish I had done the carb needle/slide/airbox/exhaust mods BEFORE our trip, the DR runs a lot better, pickup is better, it pulls harder and still has close to stock fuel consumption.

Let me know if you need more info.

It's the same with my IMS tank ... takes a bit of persuasion pushing the tank forward to be able to insert the two bolts. I use a tire iron too! :thumbup1:

But on the IMS ... that's ALL you have to do, just two bolts. Also, no abrading on the inside of the tank tunnel at all. (8 years on my IMS). I've had aftermarket tanks that rubbed on dirt bikes ... eventually had to glue on rubber protective pieces to protect. If you don't catch it ... NOT GOOD! :mad2: :angel:

With the IMS, it's two bolts, disconnect fuel line and off it comes. About two minutes or less.

I believe Jeff at ProCycle has a mod for that locking cap issue to keep it venting. My stock IMS cap crapped out so bought a locking one. So far so good. You drill a small hole internally to allow venting.

Out of the country I like a locking cap ... as several riding buddies have had Sugar or dirt dumped in their tanks. (mostly in Mexico)

For Australia and distances there ... I can see the usefulness of the big
Safari tank. Makes a lot of sense ... and as mentioned, you don't have to run it full all the time. For most of my travels I'm OK with my 5 gal. IMS. I'll carry a gallon jug (or two) when I have to ... or blag off my smarter buddies with a Safari.

Limited turning lock (something I'd not heard about) would bug me. And the abrading of wiring loom and tank rubbing ... would worry me as well.

I've seen bikes burn to the ground from a leaky tank. Rare I'm sure on the Safari but do take Gipper's notes to heart if you buy that tank. Lots of DR guys use Safari and once sorted I'm sure they're fine. bier

Hi Grif.....
I just wondered, is it your indicators that cause a restriction on the turning lock?.
I fitted the replacement brackets that came with the tank installation kit and have full lock to lock without restrictions.

Thanks for listing out the other niggles that you had....I didn't know about the cable clamps rubbing on the inside of the tank, so i'll definitely check that out.

Dave.

Hi Dave,

I have the turn signal relocate brackets fitted, they are not the issue, I am running Pro Taper Fat bars and +1 inch risers, so now the bar clamps make contact with the tank filler just below the cap, maybe with some clamps that are set more forward it might clear it, but this is not an unusual set up. On full lock the end stops are about 4 mm from touching. With a different bar setup it would work I guess. The tank material below the cap is quite thick and Ive had no issues with the clamps damaging the tank. Nevil did glue some thin dense rubber onto the tank where the clamps touch as he had the same issue with his Safari tank for his RTW.

If I remember correctly, the cable retainer brackets have a captive nut on the top of them for the stock tank cosmetic shroud bolts, its the upper edge of this that rubs on the inside of the tank, I cut the captive nuts off the top and used a dremel to get them smooth.

Im sure there will be enough variation in the mouldings and way each tank stretches out differently with time, so that this might not be an issue with all of their tanks, but it is worth checking the next time you have the tank off.

Thanks to all you blokes!
 

Thanks to all you guys: djep,mollydog, gipper.

djep: Nice photo of setup djep. Thanks for the info and noted

mollydog: I'm just a 'potterer' on the dirt (just take my time- always been the tail end charlie when in a group - have been in all my adventures from years past). Most of what you have suggested I have checked out. I've been on all the websites around and yep, there is a mountain of info; and I've taken it in as much as I can. I have to know something about the scooter to handle some of the issues that will pop up but I can't learn it all. Doing the changes and fittings myself helps with the familiarity of the bike. On those sites there is a lot of techno jargon, hype, frustration etc and it's not easy to separate it all into something simple, functional, reliable and safest. But I like what you have written and have taken note. Will re think my thoughts on the front sprocket changes. Thanks

gipper: thanks for that mountain of information, and the issues there you have stated are for the most part the pitfalls to side step. I'll do what you've suggested - it is better to be safe that sorry. I do not want issue on these roads I'm on.

So I guess it just comes to a personal choice with the tanks and the issues each produce none of which cannpt be solved or are easy to live with anyway (the rubbing parts are a worry). I've sorted screen (easy) and bash plate (not a one man operation fitting that - managed with a trolley jack though to hold in position to get the front bracket and bolts on). Racks and tack to go with them is OK (wolfman stuff) and suspension, tank and bars in the next month or so. Then it should start to be something.

So ta, fellas, I've got my little notebook written up with all those bits and pieces, and appreciate you imput.

Stay safe on that road, or wherever it is you are.

regards :confused1:
Greg

Just ran London to Magadan on my DR650 with Acerbus 5 gallon (US) tank. Riding companion on another DR650 had the Safari tank and had a definite advantage, i.e. - I had to fill up more often and ran out one time.

Curious what your range was on your DR with the 5 gal. Acerbis? What year DR?
(IE: total miles to reserve from FULL) and also, how far could you go on your reserve?

And typical total miles all up?

Was MPG consistent? What was it?

Did you know to lean bike over on it's side to get ALL the fuel out of the side lobes of the tank and down into Carb?

On my IMS there is about 1.8 liter left in tank after reserve runs dry. Lean her over ... you can get another 15 to 20 miles on down the road. A PITA, but beats walking. :thumbup1:

I also rotated my fuel inlet pipe to allow the tank to empty more completely.
Stock it sits at 12 O'clock, I rotate over to the 3 O'Clock position. Good for another 35 miles when this is done.

Yuendumu to Billiluna is about 588 km.. say 600 km /30l = 20km/l. So just doable. Be aware that filling non certified fuel containers out there will be discouraged. And it will (probably) be Opal fuel. The other alternative is avgas (good, unless you have a catalytic converter or a lamba sensor .. not on the DR bier). I'd carry a bit extra, get it in Alice/Halls Creek so you have 'spare' over the entire track. I've been know to use a PET bottle ... fill it from your tank so the gas station does not see it .. and put it out of sight when you go in. I'd empty it into the main tank about half way along the track.

Being 'slow' and practicing fuel economy methods will greatly extend your range. The easiest method is to restrict your throttle to say 1/3rd its normal range.. limiting acceleration and top speed. This can be done using a throttle mechanical cruise control reversed .. you can force it to get more if you really need it.

Any full gas tank is hard to remove and put back .. much easier when they are empty. The 30 (+) liter tanks just weigh that much more when full to be just more awkward.

Theoretically the range is 250 miles. Normally I get 50 to 57 mpg, in the USA. MPG is not at all consistent, depending on fuel quality, octane, and especially how I ride. Ride leader was always pushing it, so I'd guess my mpg was below 50. Bike ran fine on 82 octane when that's all that was available. Don't know what I was getting across Europe and Asia, since it was too much trouble to convert English gallons, litters et al, and we had a chase vehicle carrying gas to rely on.

At home before trip, I ran the tank dry once as a test. Didn't even have to lean it over, tank was bone dry when I coasted to a stop. I put a different petcock on the tank when I installed it, so I also found out I have minimal fuel - 15 miles! - after switching to reserve. :eek3:

It's a 2009 with minimal enriching done to the carb, FMF head pipe, Kientech mid pipe and Titanium GXSR muffler. I was tuning for mpg more than horsepower.

Sounds like a well set up DR650! :thumbup1:

Those are good MPG numbers! bier Sounds to me like the new Acerbis is a far better design than my old IMS. No way to get all the fuel out of the IMS ... even leaning it on it's side you still can't get it all.

I have stock IMS petcock and it's been fine ... BUT, after 20K miles or so I found my reserve range really sucked. Same as you ... 15 miles!!!

I pulled the petcock out and the filter screens were all clogged up with crud. I cleaned it up, flushed tank, put it all back. NOW ... I can go about 35 miles on reserve! :D Total range is around 260 miles if I run it empty. (bit further if I lean her on her side ... a PitA)

I run a Dyno Jet kit, DJ needle, Open air box (keintech template), Twin Air filter, backfire screen cut out, 155 main jet, stock Pilot, fuel screw .5 turn out (lean) stock exhaust. Runs STRONG, smooth.

My bike runs fine of low octane too ... Baja barrel gas is "around" 80 to 84 Octane. No pinging. That Mex barrel gas has all sorts of crap in it. I run an inline filter now and always check the little white filter stuck in the fuel inlet pipe and clean my petcock filter once a year. Helps!

Great you had a chase truck on your ride! Nice! Hope you had someone to change flats too!! :Beach:

I also find the fuel consumption varies a lot depending on what Im doing, with a 14 tooth front sprocket fitted, riding at highway speeds and riding it fairly hard on fast FSR's I get roughly 54-57 US mpg/ 64-68 Imp mpg / 4.3-4.1 L/100km.

If I pop a 16 tooth front sprocket on and keep it down to between 60-65 mph with a light throttle and lightly loaded I can squeeze 67 US mpg/ 80 Imp mpg/ 3.5 L/100km out of the DR

Procycle 150 main jet, stock pilot, fuel screw 1 1/4 turns out, clip in 4th slot from top of needle, slide drilled, airbox cut, twinair filter, backfire screen removed, keintech mid pipe and 40F0