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road from Lambarene (Gabon) to Dolisie to Brazzaville
Hi Guys after a major clutch blow out, (still waiting on parts). We will be heading down into Gabon (hopefully) next week. WE have gotten a very recent report about the franceville to oboyo road (gabon to congo): it is okay but lots of soft sand. I was wondering if anyone has any recent info on the Lambarene (Gabon) to Dolisie to Brazzaville road. and what we may be looking at. To note we are two up on an Africa Twin (very heavy). i have read Mark Hammond's (ride far) post so i know what it can be like after rains but here in Cameroun it is dry (for now...muhahhaaaaaaa)
Thanks Xander and Mrs.X |
Hey Xander. So right, the road from Gabon to Dolisie could be a little tricky in the wet. If it’s rained sporadically you’ll probably run lot of mud ponds for the first say 70 km. But they're really not that bad and should be OK two up. After that the road improves because of log truck traffic. Then again, if it’s been raining steadily the whole thing would be muck.
Dolisie to Kinkala can be some tough going again if it’s rained. We averaged just 60 miles a day on that stretch in January 09. The road wasn't all bad -- some decent piste in fact. What took time was getting thru the monster mud messes with trucks queued up for many days waiting to wrench through the mud. So it won’t matter if you’re two up or not, you’ll be pushing that Twin, if it's wet! :mchappy: I have some videos of the Dolisie to Kinkala stretch on You Tube YouTube - RideFar's Channel Closer to Kinkala you run maybe 10 miles of deep sand. From Kinkala to Brazzaville it’s paved. Dolisie to Brazzaville has also got its share of ex-Ninja rebels and bandits. I saw a report not long ago about a robbery of westerners on that route, not sure exactly where. As I understand it the Congo civil war began in Mindouli. We saw plenty of weapons but encountered no problems and personally I would run the stretch again, but to each their own. You’ll find decent lodging, food and fuel in Madingo, Mindouli and Kinkala. You’ll also be welcomed like a king, tourists are very rare. The Congolese in this area were some of the warmest, sweetest people I encountered in Africa. Looking back, Dolisie to Brazzaville was the no. 1 greatest adventure of our ride. Good luck … |
Road conditions Northern & Central Gabon
Hello from Libreville.
I arrived in Gabon Christmas day. The road from the north border is in excellent shape. Almost like a European highway. Word of warning, the road suddenly & dramaticaly takes a turn for the worst about 50 kms from Ndjole. with no signs it suddenly has large sections of deep potholes covering nearly the entire width of the road. The Problem is that they are normally around a corner and completely in the shade as the jungle vegetation forms a canopy over large sections and are hard to see when you are travelling at 100 km/h. Lots of kanikaze bush taxi drivers and logging trucks. Beautiful scenery when there is a gap in the forest. A few times in central gabon, you will need to ask locals if you are on the right road as there seems to be little in the way of signage at the new branches except right at the roundabout in the towns where the highways meet. The road to Libreville is okay. Lots of potholes and sections where they have dug out the pavement to repair it and waiting for the asphalt (some time in the next month) to complete the repairs. Another reason not to drive at night, during the day they are not a problem as the road is clear of overhanging vegetation. I would suggest that you overnight in Oyem to be fresh for the roads/highways in central Gabon. Rick |
We're looking at driving Dolisie-Brazzaville on the 19th.
Anyone have any up to date info on the road? Will post here once we've done it. Cheers, safe travels all, Sam. |
Hey Ridefar
I'm thinking of a passing thro Cameroon/Gabon/Congo perhaps April or May. I'll be solo on a GS1200. Can I make it? I'm a big guy with plenty of off-road experience - but if 1/4 tonne of bike gets stuck up to the axles I WILL be in bother! Some of your vids look a bit hairy - but are they short sections, or are there hundreds of miles like it? Cheers, Ian |
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Okay, so...
Dolisie-Brazza: road is rough but fine (2wds are bashing through). It takes all day. We met first 'ninja' roadblock just before Loutete, and last was just after Mindouli. Seven in total, although 2 were un-manned. They each ask CFA3000 'to fix the road'. They appeared to be unarmed. We confused them with a 'Happy New Year' and then either drove through, over or around whatever they were blocking the road with. On arrival in Brazza, we were told that most people (including locals) just pay them the 3000 (so about 20000 in total). The easternmost 2 (the last 2) were the most aggressive, but only chased (on foot) for about 20m. So, be careful out there, and don't try the route at night! Safe travels, Sam. (from Luanda) |
Hi Sam, I see you're live now. Are they fully into rainy season yet or is that still coming. I should be going through there in early May.
Have fun! |
There's about 2 hours of rain per day, it can come/go at any time. The road remains firm, but the top 2cm are VERY greasy (we have to be careful in a Land Rover, so you'd be better stopping and waiting on a bike).
'later, Sam. |
Thanks, Sam - I'll keep an eye on this thread. Is there a blog or something that you update as you go?
Safe traveling! |
Hi,
This could be of interest: The Endurance Rally Association - London to Cape Town Rally - Route Survey but it could be construed as advertising (although not for us!). Grant, feel free to remove if inappropriate. Cheers, Sam. |
Sam
That's all very encoraging! And very nice reading. I have a feeling that a lot of pics I see from people's blogs etc. are the hardest-going bits(?) - at least that's what I'm hoping! Deep mud, water etc. I know you're a 4-wheeler, but you don't see a problem getting through on a big GS? If 2WD can do it, I can - its just the matter of getting IMPOSSIBLY stuck on my own which isn't nice! Guess I'd be going through Apr or May, which appears to be neither the wettest or driest time. Ian |
You're right, most people post the worst stuff! Ours is more 'level', as we are doing a route recce for 2wd cars, so the route cannot be too difficult.
The thing, in fact, is the rain. If you have had rain within 8-16 hours it could be an epic, but if no rain in the last 24-36 then it'll be a breeze (this is general from southern Nigeria to mid Namibia! You'll be fine on your big bike, but if it's raining go slow or stop for a few hours and enjoy the peace. Safe travels, Sam. |
Thanks Sam.
That's what I wanted to hear really - I'm sensible (or soft!) enough to wait a day or two, but wasn't sure just how persisitent the rain was once it started - I don't want to be waiting a month! |
Hey Ian. If you ride Dolisie to Brazzaville in May, that’s towards the end of the rainy season as I understand it. I think you would be OK so long as rain hasn’t been heavy.
Riding Dolisie to Brazzaville in January 09, my two friends and I asked ourselves what it would be like to ride that road solo thru mud. It would have been a beeyotch. It was a team effort getting thru a lot of the gruel. That said, we didn’t encounter much axle-deep mud. Nor did bad mud messes run for hundreds of miles. The worst of it was a number of monster mud messes that took time and effort to negotiate, especially around dozens of trucks queued up and waiting for days to get thru. Good luck ~~ Mark |
Thanks Mark,
And just as I was beginning to convince myself it'd all be OK!!! So over how long a stretch do you reckon I could get really bad patches - all the way through Cameroon/Gabon, and even DRC into Angola? Or is it really Lamberene to Brazzaville, or even just from Dolisie to Brazz? I'm thinking if it really is impossible solo I might have to hitch a ride rather than waiting for weeks? |
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I didn't mean to suggest it's not possible solo -- it definitely is, but if it has been raining you might want to chill in a town and wait it out. No harm in that. Cheap accommodation food and beer abound and the locals are terrific you'd probably have a blast. In Cameroon the Mamfe road is well populated and help will be about if things go south. In Gabon from Lambarene to the Congo border town of Ndende is paved and then graded piste and little sweat. Road conditions are worse south of Ndende, but they improve after probably 70 km, when the road intersects with a logging road. From that point to Dolisie conditions are better and the road heavily trafficked by log trucks. From Dolisie to Brazzaville (actually Kinkala) could be your toughest stretch, if muddy. Not many people out there, but a handful of towns (Madingo & Mindouli being the largest) will have everything you need. And smaller villages on the way too. I wouldn't count on hitching a ride on any part of this, Cameroon to Congo if it's rainy and muddy -- the few trucks you encounter will be having a harder time than you! From Brazzaville to Matadi is paved. To enter Angola, we deliberated between entry at Noqui or, farther east, Songololo. Songololo was said to be easier. We chose Noqui, it was a pretty technical track, rocky and hilly with the inevitable gullies. Thankfully it was dry. Zero traffic on that route, it's not passable by 2WD car, and not simple for a 4WD. From Nzeto on the Angolan coast south everything was easy enough. Good luck & keep us posted ~~ :thumbup1: Mark |
Hi Ian,
My new schedule says I should be in Congo Brazzaville early in May - with some luck in everything that comes before, of course :-). Let me know where I can check on your progress and perhaps we can meet. I did PM you earlier. Safe riding! Kobus |
Thanks Mark - going to take a look at your info with a map later.
Kobus - I've PM'd you my email - I'm sort of waiting to see how quickly I can get visas sorted, so not sure how quickly I could hit the road at moment. Basically a window in my workload has appeared, and I need to grab it! But have to be back in UK by Jun/Jul, so want to get going sooner the better. But my VERY VERY approx schedule at the moment suggests Brazz at end of April, so guess we're not far apart! |
Cool, Ian - I also replied to your e-mail address. I also have a good number of visas to get in place myself now - don't trust the visa service people, ask for proof along the way...
Good luck! Kobus |
Congo Ninja rebel update?
I was at the Congo embassy in Abuja (had my visa within a hour!) and apparently the Chief of the Ninja’s has come out of the jungle and is now working with the government, the Ninja’s are not active in the region any more from late Dec09 he said. Hopefully this will make banditry less likely in the area but I’m unsure how quickly all the members will agree to stop making easy money… As someone else has wrote they are still about asking for money but it’s all manageable i reckon. Hopefully I’ll on my way south from Nigeria next week going via Dolisie-Brazzaville, thanks for the route info everyone!! |
Thanks Duck,
Let us know how you get on! BTW where did you get the DRC one (assuming that's where you're heading?) Or are you going to try Brazzaville? Again, please keep us informed, would be VERY helpful! As I understand it, you have to have your NEXT visa (e.g. Angola) before they'll let you have a DRC one in Brazz? Good luck mate! |
Hi, Ian
I’m here in Yaounde (Cameroon) now and had my DRC 30day visa within the morning, 9.30am and had it 12.30am. I then bolted round to the Gabon embassy around the corner and had it in on the same day (Monday), they told me to come back this Thursday but someone who handed in their visa early on Monday morning was told to come back Wednesday (but all good to get them in the same week). DRC opens 10am, cost was 60,000CFA with 10,000CFA for express service Gabon opens 8.30am I think, 50,000CFA, no express service. Get your visas where you can along the way and don’t wait till your last chance!! I’ve been caught out a couple of times. Got my Angola in Abuja for 30USD, 5day transit. I had 3 visas in 4days in Abuja -Angola (3day), Congo (same day) and Cameroon (1day) FYI, I also found the Gabon embassy in Abuja but don’t have the info here now but will put a post up for it, takes a week for 17000Nira, express (sit down before reading) 52,000Nira and takes a couple of days, needless to say I asked for my passport back! Anybody got any route updates for Gabon to Dolisie to Brazzaville? weather reports? |
Thanks Duck, that's very useful to know!
Seems I'd got it about right, was planning on a visa-shopping-spree in Abuja (3) and Yaounde (2). Think I've also read that Gabon and Congo are possible at the point of entry? But guess like you say the sooner the better, long as your dates are reasonably fixed. Not sure which way you've come, but did you get Nigeria in London? Up-to-date updates very useful - please keep posting! |
Hi Ian, Got my Gabon visa yesterday, a day later than they said. I reckon get your Gabon visa here first then do express at DRC, heard Gabon can take longer. A overland truck done Gabon on Monday morning first thing and then DRC Wednesday then left Thursday, they were quicker that way.
Hahahaah, Nigeria visa. That was one that caught me out, thought I could get it in Togo but had to go across to Accra (Ghana) to get it, no problem and easy. You can get Nigeria visa in Bamako (Mali). Again I’d say get your visas before rather than waiting till last chance! I’m leaving today for Gabon but will try to keep updating. |
Duck
Just been on a 450-mile round trip today to Nigeria and Niger embassies. Nigeria (London) won't give me one :nono:as they say I must have visas for countries before AND after. Niger and Cameroon probably in my case. But I do have multi-entry Niger, so I could use Niger as "prior" and "onward" if necessary. But not time to waste 2 more days sitting in their embassy (off at weekend)! So reckon I'll have to stop in Accra also as luckily I do have Ghana! Did they ask for onward proof? And Travellers' cheques (London said in excess of £300 worth for 7 days)? And was a LOI or hotel booking needed? Grrrrrrrrrrr |
Hotel Reference/loi
Hi Ian,
I got all my visas, except Algeria, without LOI from anywahere by submitting my itinerary and just saying that I can't book in advance or make any fixed arrangements, because the nature of a bike trip is that it's difficult to predict when you'll be where exactly. Could they be more lax with South Africans or at the embassies in South Africa? Anyway - good luck - see you in Oran. |
Hi Ian
Not sure about your route but Bamako in Mali is a good option for Nigeria visa or Accra (Togo, Benin visa’s I got at relative borders), not sure what they require but I’m sure they don’t want visa prior and onward as others didn’t have this as me, Abuja and Yaounde are your visa pit stops on route!!!! The main thing is don’t panic, I got all my visa’s on route so I’m sure you will, no worries matey and don’t waste your time trying to get them before you leave . I had NO visa’s when I left the UK, no LOI’s, no travellers cheques, no proof of cash(but others have been asked to show a statement, online one will do), no hotel bookings, pick a hotel from Lonely Planet. Also been using my forged insurance docs with no questions but get real ECOWAS insurance at Mauritania as Senegal police are a Bee’ach if you don’t have it (mine ran out after Senegal so doctored my Morocco green card and reprinted, looks real enough but I will get proper insurance for South Africa way). Route was bla bla bla Mali, Burkina Faso, Togo, Ghana (for Nigeria visa), Togo, Benin(near Ketou, 3rd border up from coast?), Nigeria(entered and left via southern regions without problems, the nail boards on the road are a sort of civil immigration check so don’t pay them, I ran all but one before I got stopped but I didn’t know they were civil immigration) , Cameroon(to Manfe), Gabon, Congo, DRC bla bla bla… In Brazzaville now and spoke to a guy who is who is looking to get his DRC visa, could take a while from what I hear, then apply for Angola at the Matadi border. Hmmmm, why wait until get visa’s this far down? If you’re planning on going to via Pointe-Noire then you’ll need a double entry 5day visa for Angola for Cabinda in/out (into DRC) then into the Angola heartland (that’s 5days for Cabinda then 5dayer for the heartland). When you fill in the Angola visa form write “double entry” somewhere beside the transit visa tick box at the top, was told I couldn’t get double by the lady but it came back with double entry visa, also told no tourism visa possible. Recently heard you MIGHT be able to get an extra 6days on the Transit visa at Caxito police station before Luanda. Good luck and sleep easy…:thumbup1: |
Update from Gabon to Brazzaville via Dolisie
After the crossing at Eboro into Gabon you’ll find good tar all the way to the equator signage, it will have you longing for a sports bike again! Soon after equator expect the smooth tar to break up. You can get fuel (Total) at Ndjole if you are heading back up the Franceville route (went to Lope on a decent piste, nice spot by the river but not much in the national park). South to border at Congo you’ll be back on tar again then off it onto some excellent wide piste, upper section is being tarred by the Chinese as we speak. No problems getting fuel riding south to Congo border, many fuel station to keep you topped up (lots Total’s so the chance of getting good synthetic based quality API oil for oil changes if you need one!). Last Gabon fuel station is about 40km from the border. After this station/village to piste could get soft when wet compared to previous piste but no heavy traffic to turn it into mud and it has recently been improved with deep water run off drainage to reduce possible water build up. Had a couple of days rain going south to the border, one afternoon thunder storm it went on so long that we turned back to a nearby hotel, another day the rains opened up we stayed put. When it rains it RAINS, factor in some time to let it dry out. All the piste here is the lovely red stuff (the red carpet), except that last 40km. The red stuff dry’s out fast and is firm offering lots more grip than the sandy coloured earth, plus it tends to ungulate smother I reckon. To the Congo border you’ll be on a sweat single track with a bit of grass growing in the middle, it’s a quite crossing so hassle free and happy officials. On the Congo side the route is not as well maintained (I’m only comparing it to previous route and not condemning it), soft and could get a little muddy in wet season or with lots of rain but only for 15km and gets better again another 10km down the route. Then it’s a fantastic fast single track piste, it will widen out around Kibangou for the logging lorries and the inevitable corrugations south to Dolisie. Just before hitting Dolisie you’ll be on a couple of short sections of powdery sand, don’t bother deflating as they not that long. 52km/h moving average from border to Dolisie. Dolisie to Kinkala there is many fuel stations, just fill up if in doubt (more Total’s so again the chance to quality engine oil for changes here in Congo). The piste is………interesting! :w00t: We had a dry time but there was still wet muddy holes to go through and a downed river bridge, I must say these where not serious so don’t panic! Meeting some wet patches on this route is a fact of life I reckon but I’m glad it was a piste ridden outside of the wet season (golden!), there was 2WD cars on the route. Moving average was 35km/h from Dolisie to Brazzaville (managed to get from Kinbangou to Mouati in one day 343km). The route to Brazzaville was rough with all kinds of piste, hard/soft/gullies everywhere/mud/water/dust (some tarred sections to tease you!) and you’ll constantly be looking ahead for the best path ahead, best done when dry so might be best to wait if it rains but nothing is impossible. You could ride it solo no worries when we did but might be nice to have friends if it turns out wet when you push through. Meet a bunch of lorries towards the end of the route which is a little more sandy. The route will keep you on your toes right to the very end! About 10km from Brazzaville the smooth tarmac ends and it will be rough and sandy with much traffic, the sand isn’t that bad or deep. The small rainy season should have started by now the locals say but the weather is not normal, usually March to May and dry June/July. The weather can change a lot in a couple of hundred kms. Did not meet any Ninja check points on the route either and a policeman said the Ninja chief is working with the government, that confirms what I heard at the Congo embassy when getting my visa. :ninja: The Dolisie-Brezzaville route was one of the best routes I done travelling down West Africa and it is what adventuring riding is all about!!! :funmeteryes: :thumbup: |
Great update Duck, sure appreciate it. Really useful information.
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Now that the Chief of the Ninja’s is working with the government he might be trying to have this route improved for his people, I’m sure this is on his to do list. It may take a while before the president trusts him enough to improve it, good routes means faster rebellions! I heard there is still some Ninja’s active stopping people (maybe I was lucky) but don’t be put off by them folks. Ride this classic west coast route before it changes… :mchappy: |
We've just arrived in Brazza. Worst part of the Dolisie to Brazza road was probably the Mindouli to Kinkala stretch (after which it's lovely tar 'till you hit the outskirts of town) All would be slippery in the wet but the only deep mud/holes were on this stretch. We left Mindouli at the same time as a Spanish biker on a 'Guzzi (I think). We caught him after a while up to the spindles and stationary. After pushing him out (if you're reading this, the guy in the yellow vest who helped push and got plastered in mud was a Ninja trying to get ahead of us to set up his road block!) there was one wobbly bit and we didn't catch him again.
Passed what looked like 4 or 5 "checkpoints" but there was a military pickup bristling with guns ahead of us and we didn't get stopped once. I'm driving a Land Rover, chasing a cyclist, so the best speed we're making on tar is 25kph, but on the tracks here she's pedalling 10-15kph most of the time. Without her I reckon we'd still only average 30-35 on this stage but a bike would obviously be faster (on the right tyres/ dry conditions) Seems to be raining about every other night here by the way. Safe travels... |
Hi Simon,
Say Hi! to Kate from me (we missed them by 12 hours in Zinder!). Probably meeting up with John in next couple of months - before he heads back out... Safe travels indeed, Sam. PS good luck with the Angolan visas - I have already sent John the details of someone who may be able to help. |
Ahaa, recognized! Hi Sam, yes, John was sorry to miss you.
Interesting road for your 4x2 cars but the odd strategically placed 4x4 with a KER rope should help. I'd be interested to see the Franceville/ Lekoni route and compare them - certainly fewer "tolls" but for your requirements accom. is more tricky, or fuel logistics? RE Angola visas it's all a bit of a mess but we've got some high up folks helping so we might be able to create an international incident here yet! Supposed to see the Ambassador today but the interpreter screwed up and we missed our slot, and probably p##sed him off too. Tomorrow's another day! Did achieve something today though - rebolted the doortop back on that fell off in Mayoko. It's never over in a rover (that should set 'em off again over at Toyoland!) Simon |
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