Across DRC: Tell me its possible
 

Has anyone travelled across the northern part of DRC in recent months? More specifically the road from Zongo on the CAR border south to Gemena, Akula, Lisala, Bumba, then east to Buta, Kisangani and onto either Bunia or Butembo on the Rwanda border? I am planning to cross DRC by bicycle in the coming months and my major concern is the security east of Kisangani. Are north and south Kivu possible to travel through independently at the moment? How is the condition of the roads? Are visas for Uganda and Rwanda issued at the border? Any information/contacts any one has for this stretch would be much appreciated. Thanks Peter

The Big Africa Cycle - from the UK to Cape Town

Check out Take on Africa

Helen is currently in DRC and has been for a while. She will be able to give good current info.

She's now in Zambia and her DRC route wasn't within 1000km of mine. She took the road to Lubumbashi.

In 2008 a Swiss chap in his Land Cruiser did a similar route. Unfortunately his website is closed down however there is still a contact page available.

Try: David-Rouge homepage

Original link: The Africa Overland Network - Independent Overland Travel across Africa, Asia, the Americas and the World.

You can always be the first in 20 years to take a bicycle across that route!
Be sure to keep us informed.

I spent a lot of time in the DRC when it was Zaire (I lived with the Efe- Pygmies) and wouldn't dream of crossing it on a bicycle. Life is cheap there- very cheap. I heard recently there is a huge military presence in Kisangani (so no fighting- but that gives rise to other problems since the military can extort money from tourists and jail them without cause) and many forced mining camps east of there. Anything near Rwanda is risky. The police are corrupt to put it mildly and don't value your life. Very dangerous. Road, weather conditions are extreme and should you get ill, (easy to do) you would never be able to peddle your way out. Sadly the time to have done such an adventure was about 20 years ago. In all my Africa travels, I loved that region the most. If you decide to go, you will no doubt have a few brushes with death that will make for great stories once you are home safe. Making it home safe won't mean the DRC is safe for travelers - it will just mean you got lucky and were able to ride between the raindrops and not get wet. Good luck and keep us posted!

Although it wasn't DRC, a guy in a truck did a similar transit a month or 2 ago via CAR.
You can read his report here. I presume he stuck to CAR because he thought it would be safer than northeast DRC, but as you can see it was quite costly in terms of nerves and $$$.

While it is a great way to travel, my impression from talking to and hearing of other cycling overlanders is that they are more prone to attacks because of their obvious vulnerability - even in African places much safer than NE DRC. The alternative there is to pay for protection/transportation, but that's not really cycling (though it might become a good yarn).

There is also news here that Chad-Darfur is opening up for the first time in many years (if you are looking for a west-east transit hereabouts). But then you need to watch how the Sudan referendum pans out.

Unless you've been out there before, I would not make it too hard for yourself by going via northern DRC.

Chris S

Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.

Follow up
 

Thanks for the advice - sounds as positive as I imagined.
Ituri, you said you lived with the Efe Pygmies? When was this and where was your nearest town? You say you wouldn't dream of doing it on a bicycle. Is this because of road condition or the inability to escape a bad situation quickly? Life is cheap in DRC I know. It is cheap throughout much of the continent. My health is very important and I wouldn't attempt it unless I was feeling 100% strong. I'm hoping there will be two of us.

Chris. Have you spoken to anyone whose cycled these roads? There is certainly an added vulnerability being on a bicycle, in terms of moving away from a bad situation quickly, but equally cyclists usually cause less of a stir in terms of $ signs than a big bike or 4x4. Nothing is definite at the moment. Thanks for your input.

I don't want to dis your experience thus far, and I don't want to present myself as any sort of Central Africa expert.....but the areas in which you've been traveling are easy, predictable and safe compared to the route you're proposing. Don't get lulled into thinking you know it all. Listen, for example, to Ituri, who gives every indication she's been there, gets it, and knows how to keep it in perspective (a good, and not altogether common, combination).

Were I you--which I'm not--I'd be looking for a way to get a taste without overcommitting; commitment can follow, or not. Speculating about what it might feel like or where the dangers like is rather different from being there. On the other hand, most of us survive whatever foolishness we undertake, most of the time; the key is not to deduce from our survival that what we did was safe, wise or repeatable.

Hope the above is taken in the spirit in which it is intended, which is of enthusiasm for adventures, including yours, yet cautionary about a tone which I read in your posts and blog....perhaps incorrectly.

Safe journeys!

Mark

Hi Mark. Neither do I want to present myself as some kind of Africa expert. I'm far from it. The countries preceding Cameroon (where I am now) may well prove to be easy compared to CAR and DRC - predictable and safe - not so much. I'm under no illusion that this is a risky route across Central Africa - there are no 'safe' routes, but I want to reach east Africa overland, rather than flying. The 'real' risky areas appear to be east of Kisangani - north and south Kivu (at least in terms of what gets reported). I'm trying to find a contact within Kisangani who knows the situation in towns/villages and the bush within the last few months. The situation changes here very quickly. Thanks for your input,

Peter

this is the wrong place to ask
 

Hi Peter, I just realised it's you. I didn't even recognise you from your tone and think you may be going a bit troppo mate in an attempt to rake up hits for the Cause. Has Lubumbashi woman forced you to up your game? (I have not read her account but know of that route).

Perhaps the obvious needs to be spelled out here. No one has travelled across north-eastern DRC for many, many years because of the appalling and random violence that continues there. Most of us here are not looking for that sort of adventure. Of course not every single place in a given region is deadly every day, but to find reliable information before getting there is very difficult because the violence is unpredictable. And then you must add the element of being a conspicuous and vulnerable toubab who will be carrying more money than most see in months. Not much to be lost bashing you in the head with the butt of an AK to find out.

I don't follow the news from DRC every day, I've never been there and I can barely ride a pushbike, but it's part of my job to keep tabs on trans-Africa routes, as many others here do. From what we know NE DRC seems pretty far gone and for that reason I suspect this forum is the wrong place to ask for northern DRC travel advice. You need to make contact with the NGOs and other agencies who work in the area. They will tell it like it is which may include the news 'come on in, the water's lovely!'

I identified the possibility of a newly opened alternative route to get to the east side (I have not done that either, before you ask). One day someone will cross north DRC without any ensuing 'what if...' nightmares and a classic old trans-Africa route will re-open. Let us know how you get on.

Chris S

[quote=Chris Scott;318057]Hi Peter, I just realised it's you. I didn't even recognise you from your tone and think you may be going a bit troppo mate in an attempt to rake up hits for the Cause. Has Lubumbashi woman forced you to up your game? (I have not read her account but know of that route).

No, I apologise for the tone, which comes across as a bit troopo/smart-arse. Crossing DRC was always in the original plan, and appears on my route page. Despite few people having done it my desire is not an attempt to rake up hits for the site/cause. Helen (Lubumbashi woman) had wanted to take a boat from Kinshasa up to Kisangani, but none were going at the time, so changed her route and went south.

I will clearly have to find contacts on the ground within those towns and regions that I mention. Should everyone confirm it to be a suicide mission I will take the safer option and head back down river.

For the moment nothing is confirmed. I will apply for visas in Yaounde and await more advice.


Should I undertake it and get through I will give an honest assessment and write up as to the safety/danger of this overland route.

Thanks Peter

Hi Peter,
If you do go that route, listen to the radio and ask for local advice. Twice I changed my route plans - once because all the locals were strongly advising against it and once because a village en route was taken by the mai mai, which I only found out about because it was reported on the local radio (no international news coverage). And this wasn't even in the much-talked-about Ituri or Kivu provinces where safety is more of a problem.

As said before, NGOs are good for on the ground current info - I have contact details for the Christian Aid office in Kinshasa and although I didn't contact them I understand they are very approachable (I've emailed it you).

Crossing Africa West-East options.
 

Hi, I am the guy who recently crossed CAR in my camper, as Chris pointed out. I mainly chose the CAR route to get from West to East Africa because I have already travelled a lot in DR Congo and wanted a different route to take. However, the security in the North and East of DR Congo was also a big factor. It would certainly not be do-able in my large camper as it would attract far too much attention, whereas a bicycle wouldn't - it's how the locals get about in those regions, usually carrying 20l containers of oil for 100s of km to sell for a few dollars. It would still be a journey to be cautious on, if you were to do it on a bicycle.

Regarding roads, in these areas, you may as well forget about them. They will be in a hideous condition, often almost completely washed away, and what is left will be very rutted, often a few metres deep, with huge potholes etc. It will become an endurance of how far you can push the bike, not ride it. For me, when I was in the area, it was more a case of where can I get my car (I was in a 4x4 at the time) onto another barge to get to the next place? You can get a barge from CAR or Zongo down towards Kinshasa, maybe you can get off at Bolobo? and get another one towards Kisingani. It will not be cheap though and anything but regularly scheduled.

I would think that the trans-CAR route would be physically do-able on the bicycle, but I would certainly not do it and expect to have it at the end of the route. I am quite certain that it would be stolen, and all of your possesions would be too, not being locked away etc. IF you were to put human factor aside, it is a great route to take, and Southern Sudan is also a very nice place to pass through, although the roads are not that great.

Regarding the Chad-Sudan, Darfur West/East crossing, I know of a German couple who did this in the early 2000s in their MAN camper without any major problems. The Darfur region has settled down a bit now, but speaking to people recently in South Sudan, locals and NGOs, it may not be like that for too long. With South Sudan voting in a referendum for its possible independence next week, if they win it, it is likely the people in Darfur will want to too. Aparently this could destabalise the region, as the Khartoum government are not likely to favour the idea of giving independence to the people they have persecuted for a long time etc. So watch that space, the window will possibly close sooner than would be convenient for us non native African travellers.

Hope I have not rambled on for too long and that I have made a few things clear regarding the central african crossing routes. Just incase my prose it unclear, I will summarise the options:

1. Chad-Sudan (Darfur):
+Open at the moment, as stable as it is going to get.
+Could become less secure soon due to independence struggle
+I know that getting a Sudan visa for arrival by land, in NDjamena can
be difficult.

2. CAR-Sudan-Uganda:
+Probably the best bet at the moment, despite difficulties.
+A lot of corruption in CAR, be very cautious - you will probably
be ripped off a lot.
+Roads are poor, but better than a lot in other parts of Africa.

3. CAR-North/East DR Congo:
+Very poor/unpassable roads to navigate, masive ruts and potholes.
+Will probably have to use ferry barges to complete a route going from
Zongo to Kisingani, via Kinshasa probably.
+ Very expensive option.

4. Crossing DR Congo to Zambia:
+ A Belgian couple did this in a Toyota Landcruiser not too long back:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...kinshasa-53285
+ I imagine it will be very hard on a bicycle too, as it will be mostly
pushing it (as the locals do).
+Alternatively you could enter DR Congo from North Uganda and
bypass Kinshasa, roads will be poor, and I did it abour 15 yrs back
so cannot give recent info on this option.

THE MAP I HAVE ATTATCHED SHOWS THE ROUTES I BELIEVE TO BE POSSIBLE TO CROSS AFRICA EAST-WEST (OR V.V.). IT SHOWS THEM IN EASIEST TO HARDEST (GREEN, EASIEST - ORANGE, MEDIUM - RED, HARDEST). THE DOTTED LINE IN DR CONGO REPRESENTS RIVER BARGE TRAVEL. FULL LINES REPRESENT ROAD TRAVEL. THIS MAP IS ONLY AS THE ROUTES STAND AT THE MOMENT IN MY OPINION.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRANS-AFRICAN

Just about what Chris said, yes, Certainly contact local NGO offices as they can be of great help, although I was not able to come by many, Church missions are also good sources of guidance (of the navigation variety I mean). I very much doubt they'd tell you that those parts of DR Congo are good to visit right now, but situations change all the time.

As far as I am aware, it is not possible to cross from CAR to NE DR Congo on anything larger than a bike at the moment as there is a river (Bomu) in the way, and the only way across is on dug out canoe. For you on a push bike it would be fine, Mboki would be a good place to get to to cross into DR Congo, but when you are in DR Congo, it will be very hard going.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRANS-AFRICAN

Great map and information
 

Many thanks for that informative post. Just found Bolobo on the map - it is way down the river! If I was going to take river transport it would be upriver from Lisala, which is the first place I would come into contact with the River Congo assuming I came on the road from Gemena and Zongo. By the sounds of it this may take 1-2 weeks? It is the dry-season until March, I think?

Well it would appear from your map, which is great and I'd very much like to copy and share on my website if OK? that my intended route is the hardest. Over the past few days an alternative route has been brought to my attention by an aid-worker who knows the region. This is basically to reach the junction town of Lubutu, east of Kisangani, then head south to Kindu and possibly connect with the train line to Kabalo and on to Kalemie on Lake Tanganika. This is much further south than I planned to go, but it avoids the troubled Kivus (Maniema province reputedly much quieter and safer) and provides me with an option of lake transport across to Tanzania.
Whatever route I take I rather get the impression that my mode of transport will be a combination of cycling, pushing the bike, river and rail transport and possibly motor vehicle. I am hoping for a 60, if not 90 day visa for DRC. Time needs to be on my side. Thanks again

Peter

Listen to everyone here- It's just not worth the risk. The DRC is in a category all its own as a result of its exceptionally bloody and brutal past not to mention the vastness of the country, diverse topography and warring tribes that make it ungovernable. The military are not paid, (their pay is also stolen from them) so everything operates through bribes and robbery. Travelers are fair and good game for anyone wanting to support their family.

I was in the Ituri Rain Forest off and on over a 2 year period (thus my name here and Nduye was the closest outpost with a mission run by Italian nuns, since closed) 20 years ago. Even then, Zaire was a dangerous place, full of arms dealers, poachers, rebel training camps and other hazards for the innocent traveler, (still the case but much worse). Many, many travelers have "disappeared" there over the years. There was a French film crew just a while back that disappeared. I kept up with friends over the years who have projects there and sadly Carl Ruff who founded the Okapi Reserve was killed in a car crash after trying to negotiate with the rebels not to kill off his animals a few years ago. His co-founder flies in and out and can't say what's going on 10 miles away. It's a place where you will be vulnerable, isolated with no rule of law or anyone to help you if you get into trouble. It is 1000 miles from anywhere in any direction. I at least had the Pygmies who protected and sheltered me. Let us know what route you decide to take.

New Routes
 

Ituri, Have you been back in the last 20 years? That's a long time in Africa. When you say 'many many travellers' - are these confirmed/reported killings of foreigners. And where? You say yourself that it is vast and ungovernable. One region may be different, worse or similar from the one you spent time in. This French film crew that recently disappeared. I can't find anything on the net, other than this, which is quite interesting: Mokele-mbembe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Was it reported? And when you say 1000 miles from anywhere in any direction, where are you thinking? I'm not going to live with the Pygmies. I will be a long way from Kinshasa if that is where you mean? I take on board everything you say. I have not been to DRC, but your post lacks the name of specific provinces, towns, villages, dates you were there, and roads and their conditions. I am possibly planning to head south from Lubutu (east of Kisangani) and enter Maniama province, which is reputedly much calmer than north and south kivu, and from there proceed south east towards Kalemie and L Tangankika. I am making good contacts with people who are both there now and have been there recently

Yes.. I am in Africa almost every winter for a month (leaving again in a few weeks) or two or more, since 1986. I know it very well, especially since I reside mostly in remote areas. Re DRC.. it is far worse now than before. I keep up with what is going on there, but you seem determined to make this trip. You will probably survive it.. most do-- with a few moments of serious regret.
Good luck to you.

I would agree with Ituri -if you go, you'll probably make it but with a few serious regrets along the way. DR Congo is a facinating place, but not a decision to be taken lighty I must say.

Regarding my map, sure it would be great to post onto your website. If you inbox me your email address I will send you an original copy, plus any other things I have or find that may be relevant. Feel free to pos any of my information, or copy a link to this thread.

From Kalemie, assuming you get there all right, you should be able to fin a boat going to Kigoma, Tanzania, from where you can get a train to Dodoma and Dar. It was about £30 last time I used it. I am not sure of the frequency of passages from Kalemie to Kigoma, but I know more tend to head north to Bujumbura, Burundi if that helps you. Easiest to just Rrive and ask around at the docks.

------------------------------------------------
TRANS-AFRICAN

I'm not an African expert either and in terms of East-Congo there is none. The situation changes too quickly and plenty of informations are not coming out ( no (slow) communication, no roads, not enough people reporting...)
Ituri describes the situation pretty well, its a failed state or even worse.

With my brother I crossed CAR and DRC in 2007 on a bicycle. (Route:to-adi - Adrian Guggisberg - Through Africa by bike
Tips:to-adi - Adrian Guggisberg - Country Infos and some photos:to-adi - Adrian Guggisberg - Gallery - Category: Bangui - Kampala)

It was impossible to get accurate informations. We contacted NGO's in Kisangani (searched skype for people living there) and every body said it's not possible. Almost all foreign people fly in because of security reasons and no roads. There are not many who travel over a longer distance and therefore the informations are seldom first hand. In huge areas there are no NGOs at all, because there are only tracks for bikes but no petrol and plenty of mud. In some bigger villages or small towns there are missionaries (mostly Italian Catholics) if they didn't fled during the wars. They new about security and the condition of the road in their area.

The biggest problem are the unpredictable officials. They take away passports, want briberies and find plenty of reasons to stop or even arrest you. We avoided towns and even villages, sped through them or tried to go strait to the missions. Before we were in DRC we thought we can hide in the rainforest but it's impossible. The tracks are like tunnels in the rainforest. With out machete and hours of serious work, there is no way to leave the channel... and then every body will find you because of the track you made. The advantage is, once on the right track navigation is easy. The best Map I found is Landkarte Kongo (1:2.000.000) although the informations about the roads are at least in north east useless.
Every couple of km there are some huts along the track. We haven't had problems with locals, could buy some food (cassava, banana and cassava-banana-biscuits and sometimes rice) and often they even have a roof and fireplace for the guys transporting goods on their push-bikes.
For safety I recommend which-craft.

If the northern route CAR-Sudan-Uganda is open I think I probably would chose this. The official in CAR are horrible as well but DRC was worse. In 2007 it was blocked by the Darfur conflict and the LRA raiding villages in CAR.

@peter
I'm still in contact with David Rouge, the guy mentioned earlier in this thread. He crosses as well in 2007 by 4x4. I doubt he has new informations from the route Kisangani - NiaNia - Mambasa he took. But maybe he knows about Missions or the worst pitfalls...

Adrian

Hi Peter,

Me and my partner are travelling overland on motorbikes and are planning to go from West to East Africa through DRC, if possible. Our plan would be to take a barge from Kinshasa to Kisangani and then head south direction Kalemie to find a ferry to take us across Lake Tanganyika to Tanzania. Sounds a bit like the last route you were thinking about.
I don't have a lot of detailed on the ground info right now, but I'm trying to get in touch with MSF aid workers. We're soon leaving Ghana and planning to reach Congo-Brazaville end february, beginning of march. After that things will get more unpredictable, but since we're on motorbikes it might be that we get to DRC before you do? We'll keep you posted...
I did find this very interesting website: Congo War. Especially the part 2009-, which gives as detailed info about specific events with dates and locations as I've been able to find.

Good luck!

Isabel

MissJBZ,
It would probably be much easier and safer to cross from Kisingani to Goma and exit DR Congo to Rwanda rather than chance it to find a boat to take you across to Tanzania. Besides, from Rwanda, you can cross into Tanzania, maybe explore it for a bit and then from Kigoma, catch the weekly steam ship to Mpulungu in Zambia, about 5 days sailing. It is a far simpler and relaxed journey, and you can view the beautiful scenery from the boat. It is about $55 per person for this trip in 1st class on the ship (MV Liemba). When I lived in N.Rhodesia/Zambia my family would use this boat often, and it was a fantastic journey to make. If you really want to go to Kalemie (nothing much there), the boats going to Tanzania should be able to take you no problem if you are willing to pay the ridiculous fee they demand. Also, more boats sail northwards towards Burundi than those heading towards Kigoma (TZ).
Happy travels in the Congo!

Thanks for the tip about boats heading to Burundi. We don't specifically need to be in Tanzania, as our journey goes up afterwards instead of down to South Africa. We would choose to go to Kalemie because of security reasons, though I agree the road will probably be more difficult.
On what basis would you consider the route from DRC to Rwanda safer? Going from Kisangani straight to Goma would take you through North Kivu, one of the hot spots of DRC...
Well, we'll see how it goes.

Neither was it my intention to go to Kalemie, but it is a route from Kisangani which avoids north/south Kivu. I did/still do want to follow the road east from Kisangani to Bukavu, from where I could cross into Rwanda, but am being advised to avoid it. I will make a more definite decision in Kisangani.

Miss JBZ (Isabel?)- I am now in Yaounde. I'm sure you'll catch me up and overtake. Please contact me through the website/facebook so as we may arrange possibly meeting.

Peter