Caraterra Austral.
 

Hi - Can anybody give me some up to date information on the Caraterra Austral between Coyaique and Chaiten - how much is paved and how much is ripio, petrol availability, etc. Probably been asked before but if anybody has done it recently then latest info is always welcome.

Coyhaique and beyond
 

Hola Grey Nomads... We are heading the same way and in Coyhaique now. Where are you? We are in Hostel Natty. Maybe we can hook up.
Carol & Ken Duval

Carretera Austral
 

We ran it the otherway N to S just over a year ago, so you should plot these descriptions in reverse order to give you an idea of what you will find.

Back then it was paved about up to about 35 km South of Chaiten. Road works were ongoing at the point of transition, but not for long, only about 10 km. We were two up on a fully loaded R1150GS. I am not a loose surface rider at the best of times, and this was quite tough: loose earth and stones, before the compacters flattened it, and this was only marginally better. Then it was the packed clay. Gravel, and nasty potholes, but apart from that it was good riding for the next 200 km South: 60-90 kmph was fine. Petrol stops were at La Junta, and then another spa town on a lake further South, but I do not remember the name. Fill up when you can is what I say, even if its only 100km since the last, as one of the pumps was dry that day, and without the second we would have been pushing!!

After that the road then became large rocks rather than gravel (around the junction that forks towards Puerto Cisnes): about the size of your first and this was not very nice to ride on. Felt like you'd fall any second, but it never happened so just keep the bike moving and it seems to stay sunnyside up, despite the skitting front wheel. However, after this came about 40 km of road works. I hated this section: loose ground, sand, stones, more loose earth, potholes like the Sea of Tranquility etc. I found it very tough going, and harder than most I had ridden that trip, as it changed every few km, so I could never get a rhythm going. Anyway, it finally became paved about 10-15 km North of Maniguales, which is about 80 km North of Cohaique. So, it a nut shell for us the majority is fine (provided its dry! We did not have to deal with wet clay roads, just packed and dry...) with just some dodgy bits at the beginning and end. I found those hard, but would do it again: the scenery is indescribable. Also half way along in the Parc Nat' Queulat, there is the hanging glacier and campsite: at least stop off for lunch its really worth a visit. Once in Chaiten, try and get rooms at the Casa Hexagon. North end of town, on the western river bank, about 3-4 blocks NE of the main square. A really nice place to chill. In the main street there is a tour guide called Nick (surmane starts with P...for some reason Lapensa springs to mind, and is a very gentle fellow about 35? Speaks with an Americanised accent) who runs tours to the area: plays the "mini" guitar beautifully, and took us to local thermal baths. Can also take you to PArque Pumalin, too.

Its a fabulous part of the world. Some bits of road are pants, but they take you to such nice places: don't be put off. I'm glad I wasn't despite almost heading East early to Esquel.

Check
Turistel Chile - Mapas - Mapas Ruteros - XI Región

Red line means paviment

Ill be in Caleta Gonzalo heading South Next Monday 18 Feb

Just did it on my KTM950! Its one of the greatest roads in the world and should not be bypassed! Knobbies will always be best in this part of the world so use them if possible but its certainly rideable on normal or dual sport tires.

The CA is just a phenomenol road! Plenty of fuel, just fuel up often and even more so when you get to Argentina and Ruta 40 and carrry extra! Dec/Jan/Feb right now there are many small Argentina towns WITHOUT gas at major stationsa etc. BE PREPARED!

Chas Walter

I was on the Carreterra two weeks ago.
The first part after Coyhaiqe is paved for about 70 km. But there is an awful gravel part of about 30 km inbetween.

After the asphalt comes again a horrible part of 30 km with deep gravel, I was almost about to turn around. Next there is a pass, mostly good gravel but especially in bends (some u-turns) bad stones. Take care even trucks with trailers go there!
There is a long roadworks for about 50 km before Puyuhaipi, but mostly no problem for motorbikes. In this part the road is closed during the week between 10 a.m and 2 p.m. As I know sunday it´s open.
Afterwards the road was o.k. up to Chaiten.
There are Fuel Stations in La Junta, Puyhuaipi and Chaiten, no more distances as 200 km without.
If you want to cross to Chiloè, buy the ferry ticket in advance in Coyhaique. In Chaiten you have to wait a whole week for it, they don´t want to have motorbikes on it, because it´s less money.
In Chaiten I recomend the Hostal "Casa Hexagon", a marvellous wooden building with atmoshere.

The short ferry further north runs every day at 9 a.m. Tickets available the day before.
But the road through the Pumalin Park is not very good. And at the other side (Huaipen or something like that, don´t have a map at the moment) I was told is really bad for some parts.

You can also go further on to Futaleufu, the road is o.k.

Have fun, see you on the road

Uschi

how far south can you start?
 

Hi
I hope to do the CA soon. At the moment I am in El Chalten and heading south and absolutely loving it all.
My question is how far south can you start?
How far back up Argentina do I need to go before I can cross the border into Chile?
What other options?
My map shows a ferry from Puerto Natales to (Sorry don´t remember the name but right at the beginning of the road, I think). Do-able? Expensive??

Thanks
Bruce.

You can go south as far as Villa O'Higgins, and the ferry you speak of goes from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales , company is called Navimag, current fare is USD350 for you and another 70,000 pesos for the bike, so all in all about 450 USD, there is a border crossing between Puerto Montt and Bariloche and another south by Lago Buenos Aires, think it is called Chile Chico.

Hi Bruce

If you're still here (and you didn't get blown away last night!), call in at camping El Relincho and say hello, you can see my bike (black Dommie) and tent from the road.

Regards, Mick

Thanks
 

Thanks for the info on CA IrishKev. Not sure what I will do. I am in Puerto Natales right now and heading off to Torres del Paine now and then south to Ushuaia. Might check out a bit more info when i pass through here again.

Mick, sorry mate. Just checking the Hubb now so I missed you. Are you heading north or south??

Hello

Is it possible to do the CA and reach the Magalhaes pass in august?

thanks

Hey guys, I am in Valdivia and am heading South for Ushuaia. I want to save money and take the highway that goes over the mainland South of Puerto Montt. Are the roads good enough through the Parque Natural Pumalin?

I only have all terain type Tourance Metzlers and I do not want to drop the bike now that I have removed the protective tape from the paint.


Thank You,
Geoff

Gato...

You are taking the Carretera Austral south from P Mont right? Its a must do!
Stop with the nonsense of not dropping your bike cuz you just removed the protective tape! Again, you will take a ferry to Hornopiren and ride from there to Chaiten etc and logically cross over into Arg by going the long way around the massive lake to Chile Chico. Take my word: its incredible!

Chas

Hey Chas, thanks for the advice.

I did not end up doing the Carreterra Austral unfortunately but I think I gained some pretty good knowledge of the area and will share it. The road that goes southeast from Puerto Montt through Puelche and Hornopiren does not connect to Caleta Gonzalo and Chaiten which leads to the Carretera Austral. You need to take a ferry from Puerto Montt or Quellon (Southern most city on the island of Chiloe).

The only other alternative to taking a ferry is to head East at Osorno and cross the border into Argentina and go to Barriloche. This is a very beautiful road up until El Bolson. The road is all paved until you get close to Jose de San Martin. The only option for doing the Careterra Austral is to drive dirt on Ruta 40 and than go East on Highway 19 which is dirt also so you can cross the border into Chile and get to Highway 7 which is the Careterra Austral.

If you decide to go to the island of Chiloe the ferry only crosses to Chaiten at Quellon which is the Southern most city on the island. I recommend taking the ferry direct from Puerto Montt to Chaiten instead because I think the services are about the same price but the Quellon ferry only leaves on Wednesday and Sunday at 2 p.m. The ferry I was waiting on was 1 day late and I decided to drive back to Argentina instead. To get to the island of Chaiten you have to pay a $10 ferry fee from Paragua to Chacao. The ferry fee from Quellon is $60-70.

BTW: The island of Chiloe is overrated in my opinion. If you have seen islands in Washington, Oregon, Canada, or New Zealand than this island will be nothing special for you.

TIP: Hardly any of the locals use the ferry from Quellon to Chaiten. The locals who want dependable service take the ferry from Puerto Montt to Chaiten direct.

The Carretera Austral
 

I rode this road or a good share of it about 6 weeks ago and it should not be missed. This site gives some good information even if it is a bit older. Even with the information being older the mileages do not vary.



Touring notes: Chile