don't miss Kuelap ruins
 

it's in Amazonas in the north...I was there 5 days and stayed with the caretaker...he'll feed you and you can camp at the parking area for free
I'm going back next year I hope

see ya Raul !

Cheers for all the info, books are useful but nothing beats talking to people who have actually done it!
Update on the plan..... Looks like I may have secured a bike! (KLR hopefully). Also it now looks like i'll be starting in Ecuador and working my way south (then back up). I'm glad that I didn't start with any firm plans as the trip seems to have a mind of its own!
Any routes or info will be gladly accepted.
Now all I have to do is learn spanish as all I know is "dos sevetha por pavour" (well, it's got me by so far!)