Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB

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-   -   Afganistan (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/route-planning/afganistan-43015)

Gionatill 6 Apr 2010 15:48

yea if been looing at the regions with the most acctivity the north look "ok"
what would be the best place to enter??? is iran any good?? or one of the 'stan' countries?? thank you all!!! love this website

danielsprague 12 Apr 2010 20:58

This is a link to my post following my 2 month journey through Afghanistan in my truck.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...hanistan-47438

It's arguable whether it's any safer to be in a plain Toyota pickup than an obviously foreign motorcycle, but you would certainly strand out more on the latter.

Daniel

maja 13 Apr 2010 00:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by danielsprague (Post 284857)
This is a link to my post following my 2 month journey through Afghanistan in my truck.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...hanistan-47438

It's arguable whether it's any safer to be in a plain Toyota pickup than an obviously foreign motorcycle, but you would certainly strand out more on the latter.

Daniel

I would take a close look at the record of US forces shooting up plain Toyota pick ups. One thing though, if a chap from that little US Air Force base in the US south west is driving the beast that gets you you will be the most technologicaly eliminated HUBBER ever and probably the most widespread. Ride safe, stay clear of the 'stans.

:surrender::surrender:

danielsprague 13 Apr 2010 11:39

Not exactly sure what you're on about, but yes, the US Forces were probably the biggest danger for me, or at least the most obvious. On the Torkham - Kabul highway they are patrolling. If you try to overtake they'll fire a warning shot, then take you out if you continue... good thing someone warned me in advance. Coming the other way you should pull off the road and slow down / stop.

In other places, the ISAF forces were pretty cool. I even helped some stranded Kiwis get the wheel off their Humvee (broken kingpin - should have taken a Toyota).

I think given the number of Pickups charging round (including all the police and lots of the PRTs), you'd be pretty unlucky to get hit by the US forces, but I guess it's a possibility, like getting struck by lightning or hit by a meteorite.

I'm not suggesting people should go to Afghanistan, but if all the comments posted by people who had never set foot in Afghanistan were taken off this thread, I'm sure it would be far, far shorter.

As for 'stay clear of the 'stans' I think this is an absolutely ridiculous comment. All of the five Central Asian stans are perfectly safe (current political problems in Bishkek notwithstanding), and so is most of Pakistan. Try to keep your comments based on experience, not fantasy.

Daniel

danielsprague 13 Apr 2010 11:59

Gionatil

If you want to enter from the 'stans, you could consider entering at the Imamnazar / Aqina border close to Andkhoi (quite an adventure), and going across the old Uzbek khanates of the north, which are utterly enthralling, real Central Asia untouched by the Bolsheviks. You could then exit at Heyratan into Uzbekistan, or perhaps from the Wakhan to Tajikistan (but I haven't crossed this latter border).

BUT

I have not kept up to date with security in Afghanistan since I left in Jan. The only way to get reliable info is to contact reliable people who are in Afghanistan right now. Ex-pats tend to be overly conservative as their movement is usually very restricted and all the horror stories spread like wildfire in Kabul's expat restaurants and coffee shops. On the other hand, Afghans can sometimes be a little blase about security.. they have lived through 30 years of war. If you can find Afghans who work in western companies, they may be your best bet. They were the people who convinced me ultimately that it was not in fact suicide to drive across Afghanistan.

Just don't listen to anyone's advice unless they have been there. You should even treat the security advice in my previous post with great caution, as it was relevant for Nov / Dec 2009. Things can change fast. As someone previously said, the violence often escalates in spring and summer. But the north of Afghanistan is a different world from the Pashtun areas of the south and east, and many people can't seem to discriminate between the two halves of the country.

Ultimately, do not take this as encouragement to visit. Like anywhere else, but more so, if you are in the wrong place, at the wrong time, with the wrong people, things can go very badly wrong in Afghanistan. You could be killed. But then riding a motorcycle round Asia is hardly a safe pursuit in the first place, is it? Have you seen how people drive here?? Ask yourself if you can enjoy yourself in a country with Afghanistan's risk level... if the answer is no, then don't go. Going there just to tick it off a list or for any other stupid reason is nonsense.

Make a wise, informed decision... question your sources and their credibility, and if you go, I hope you really enjoy it, as I did.

For me, it was the highlight of my 3 year trip, utterly fascinating, enjoyed every moment, had no problems, no bad experience (except a drunken border guard trying to confiscate a couple of books... he failed), and met the nicest, most affable and decent people I've ever come across. I hope you have a similar experience, if you go.

Daniel

Lisa Thomas 13 Apr 2010 13:06

the stans - Iran - etc...
 
hi
well...we decided to take a huge detour last summer when travelling overland in Central Asia. We did not consider it safe to enter Afghanistan then, and would consider it even more dangerous now. but this is just my opinion.
As Daniel says , 'make a wise, informed decision... question your sources and their credibility'...

Also it is not necessary to 'stay clear of the 'stans' - we covered all of the Stans in 2009 and in my opinion the stans are safe (take time to clarify the situation in Bishkek), and so is most of Pakistan- you will have a military escort for the majority of your time when traveling there. I would still avoid the northern areas of Peshawar etc and check on the current situation in the Khyber.

BTW - Uzbekistan is really enjoyable - Bukhara and Samarkand wonderful. Out of the whole 'bunch' of the Stans however, Tajikistan was my favourite mainly due to the fantastic ride over the Pamir mountains. we travelled Iran safely, but the situation re visas is constantly changing and probably will change if strict sanctions are put in place - it is absolutely fine to make the crossing into Turkmenistan or Uzbekistan, and i think there is no need to stear clear of the Iran/Turkmenistan border or the border. We did the route in Uzbek that took us down to the Uzbek/Afghanistan border as the other route was closed due to snow. We had no problems but....I just wouldn't advise crossing into Afghanistan!

note that you will be extensively searched when entering Uzbekistan - this was the most thorough search we have ever had in our 7 years on the road - but also one of the most polite and efficient. They (the Uzbek border guards) are not targeting you - they do it to everyone, especially the truck drivers - they are mainly searching for drugs. This takes a huge chunk of time but just chill and open everything that they ask you to without question or attitude. It helps.

if you fancy a read or just want to see some pics visit our website diary here 2ridetheworld.com : diary
this is the link for Tajikistan and from this link you can go on to Uzbek - Turkmen - Iran etc...or select the dairy from each country individually.

we also have a fully downloadable GPS file with all of the relevant GPS points/borders/hotels/homestays/camping/etc
you can find this on the front page of our website at the bottom.

have fun planning and if you need more info re paperwork/visas/routes etc just email me - my email is on the contact page of our website.

danielsprague 13 Apr 2010 18:40

Uzbek customs are very thorough coming in from Afghanistan or Tajikistan... but a $20 'tip' avoids any unpleasant searching... didn't you notice all the trucks and flash cars breezing through while they were looking through your laundry and asking what all your camping bits and bobs were?

Daniel

Lisa Thomas 13 Apr 2010 19:33

Uzbek searches
 
we try never to pay out aswe think it makes it worse for the next overland traveler and becomes expected....anyhow, we didn't mind as they were so nice a out it.
in our 7 years on the road we have only paid 2 'bribes' - or whats another way to put it - fulfilled the request for additional funds - and these only amounted to around $5 each time. we really dont have the spare cash to pay out - but what we do have is time - and they always get bored before we do.

betterfastermore 14 Apr 2010 05:28

Lisa and Daniel: Great threads and input to the original question. I think there is some sound advise in there. I am in Afghanistan right now, just south of Kabul, but my perspective is not the same as a tourist/adventure rider. Frankly, I wish it was. I would be having more fun right now and getting miles on my bike. I will be here till the end of the year, so if someone does plan to make a journey to Afghanistan feel free to shoot me a message. I am happy to help any way that I can.

Cheers and good riding.

BFM

danielsprague 14 Apr 2010 06:57

BFM - slightly south of Kabul?? Sounds risky. Are you part of a PRT?

Lisa - I didn't pay $20, despite the Turkish and Russian truck drivers encouraging me... it's a standard fee I think, the friendship bridge really doesn't get many overlanders with cars (I imagine). Sadly, three hours of my time is currently not worth $20, plus I get a peverse joy in seeing them getting their gloves dirty unloading all the dirty, oily junk which lurks in the depths of my piuckup.

Daniel

dabarley 14 Apr 2010 09:21

Does anyone have experience in the Wakhan entering from Tajikistan and then re-joining the Pamir?

oneworldbiker 14 Apr 2010 10:32

visa/pass
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by dabarley (Post 285111)
Does anyone have experience in the Wakhan entering from Tajikistan and then re-joining the Pamir?


I have been advised to get a visa/permit for the wakhan corridor. I was also warned about mine fields and crossing unmarked border crossing places as dirt roads follow the river on the afgan side.

The passes and permits can be aquired from the Pamir tourist office in the major towns on the M41. (OH shit going to birmingham again....lol):oops2:
the local police can help as well.

Lisa Thomas 14 Apr 2010 13:24

Afghan side of the river...
 
hi
its practically impossible to cross into Afghanistan from Tajik without knowing it....
and the 'roads' on the Afghan side are mostly little more than cattle/goat herding tracks that cling to the mountain sides with frequent hanging wooden connections swinging between deep gorges in the rock-side.
Not something that a bike, even a push bike, would be happy to attempt.

all very obvious and straight forward and having just ridden it, not something to get concerned about....ie a mistake and ending up on the wrong side of the river (which is the natural border)
passes and permits very straightforward and inexpensive.
it WILL be the ride of your life.

maja 18 Apr 2010 04:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by danielsprague (Post 284943)
Not exactly sure what you're on about, but yes, the US Forces were probably the biggest danger for me, or at least the most obvious. On the Torkham - Kabul highway they are patrolling. If you try to overtake they'll fire a warning shot, then take you out if you continue... good thing someone warned me in advance. Coming the other way you should pull off the road and slow down / stop.

In other places, the ISAF forces were pretty cool. I even helped some stranded Kiwis get the wheel off their Humvee (broken kingpin - should have taken a Toyota).

I think given the number of Pickups charging round (including all the police and lots of the PRTs), you'd be pretty unlucky to get hit by the US forces, but I guess it's a possibility, like getting struck by lightning or hit by a meteorite.

I'm not suggesting people should go to Afghanistan, but if all the comments posted by people who had never set foot in Afghanistan were taken off this thread, I'm sure it would be far, far shorter.

As for 'stay clear of the 'stans' I think this is an absolutely ridiculous comment. All of the five Central Asian stans are perfectly safe (current political problems in Bishkek notwithstanding), and so is most of Pakistan. Try to keep your comments based on experience, not fantasy.

Daniel

Well Daniel, I would think that I am at least as well travelled as yourself and my fantasy revolves around the national lottery not travelling. I may not have up to date practical knowledge of all of the middle east but I know several people that do, albeit non on motorcycles. I have in the past spent significant periods in Iraq, Iran, various Gulf states and Pakistan over a timescale from the early 60's to the end of the first Gulf war. I have regular correspondence with people who are in both Iraq and Afghanistan both military and civilian and like to keep myself abreast of what is happening in the world and what may happen. For a reasonably coherent summing up of the present state of play in the 'Stans have a read of: www.independent.co.uk/news/world/asia/trouble-in-the-stans and please don't be a smartarse with people that you don't know, it's not nice. I'm still travelling so who knows we might bump into each other on the road. Ride safe

sorry, forgot about cycling through Iran and Pakistan in 2004 en route to India from Scotland, the trip before I changed to motorcycling and got fat.

CornishDaddy 18 Apr 2010 11:20

The Stans
 
I have read and re-read this thread and am not sure if I am going mad, but please, if anyone is reading this do not think the Stans are the same throughout. They are not, and cannot be judged as one single place, It's as crazy as saying that don't go to Europe because of the Kosovo crisis. Perhaps a Sun reader ( UK reference) could make this, but to hear it from someone from the HUBB is disturbing.

Kazakhstan - Different form all 'Stans in many ways. European, Russian ad Central Asian in many ways, but safe as houses.

Kyrgyzstan - We can't believe that what is happening now is possible, we loved this country and never once spoke to a single person interested in politics, even in Bishkek. Outside Bishkek I would bet my house that the country is safe as, er houses. Greenist country you will have come across in a long long time. All you will see is green hills, nomadic people and hospitality.

Tajikistan - again great people, with alot more to worry about than anything more than hospitality. Watch out for out of normal hours vodka drinking. A country missing infrastructure, but keeping the hospitality tradition going. More mountains than hills, more screen slope than nice tarmac drive. that's why your there though?

Uzbekistan - The only danger here is the police - they will try and nick you for anything. But luckily enough the crazy government are horrified by the corrupt police and will not chase up on any offence, so all you need to do is ask to be taken to a police station when nicked (as we were going 5 miles an hour). They will decline this. We later met the first ever round the world multi bike trip (so they told us). When they were arrested for speeding six of them paid the hundred dollar fine each, no receipts, because there guide wasn't there to tell them to ask a question. Hmm ... Apart from that as safe a France ...

Turkmenistan - we never made it there, but apparently you get fined for smoking in the street.

Iran - only go there is you are brave enough to make friends. Never in my entire life have I felt safer. Even if you met a crazy Iranian, the rest would make sure you are safe.

Pakistan- we left about 5 days before the recent troubles escalated. But The KKH is 90% safe, and all the way the people will tell you where is safe.

So all in all I would back the 'Stans. But only if you are happy out of your safe European Home (the Clash????).

My final points, though is, from Turkey all the way across to China and Pakistan, is a swath of Islam and traditional hospitality that I have never faced in any Christian/Western world. Please disbelieved everything you read in the press, even those liberal entities like the Independent or Guardian, as they are still have agendas - the world is not that bad!!!!!


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