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Texas to Tuktoyaktuk (almost) by Ural.
So I turned 27 this past June and suddenly realized that my days of complete freedom were quickly coming to a close. My wife and I have been quietly discussing having kids, the idea of finding and keeping a career is growing evermore important, and I just feel like there’s not much time left before my life as a lazy vagabond is apprehended by responsibility. So, with that in mind, I talked my wife into driving across North America with me in our 2007 Gear Up.
The Gear: For the past year, I’ve been planning and preparing. I became obsessed with compiling gear and parts and tools… I’m certain that this site only fed my habit. I bought so much stuff that I soon realized it wouldn’t even fit in my Suburban let alone on my bike. So I somehow condensed my list of stuff and made a pretty good effort in not taking too much stuff. I impressed myself, I must say. The Essentials: - riding gear: Rev’it! - helmets: HJC and Shoei - heated clothing: Gerbing - communications system: AutoCom - GPS: Garmin 478 - duffels: North Face - security: Pacsafe - tent and bags: Mountain Hardware - cots: LuxoryLite - cameras: GoPro wide, Canon 5D, Canon G9 (my wife is a pro photographer) http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2688.jpg The Route: I’ve read literally hundreds of ride reports and yet over the past year I couldn’t seem to be able to put together a definite route. I decided that I’d rather just hit the road and not worry too much about it. The only thing I needed to know is that we will start in San Antonio, TX, stay off all main highways, and our goal is Tuktoyaktuk, Canada. There are definitely some things we’d like to see but we really just want to be free with this trip. The Bike: The bike is a 2007 Ural Gear Up. A few have toured pretty extensively with such a rig, but it will provide quite a different touring experience than most bikes. I haven't made many modifications: an extra gas can to the hack, highway peg (yes, I said peg), electric clothing, comm system, GPS. This thing is ready for the road! If anyone is interested, we have a more interactive blog at Bugs On My Face |
DAY 1
We left our house in San Antonio at about 8 am. We definitely tried to get out earlier because it had been ruthlessly hot in this part of the country and we wanted to enjoy a few cooler moments on the road, but we’ve never been a couple that sticks to our schedule. Anyway, the first hour of riding was great. Not much traffic. Small country roads – even a little dirt. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/1.jpg Then, all of a sudden, as I’m pulling up a small hill, the bike dies. I pull off to the side of the road and get off to take a look at things. Nothing seems out of the ordinary and it starts up beautifully, so we take off once again. Then, five minutes later, it dies again and I’m barely able to muscle it off the road. We spend the next 4 hours sitting on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere while I try to do everything in my mechanical know-how. I pull the plugs, find that one is black, and begin focusing my energy on the left side. I check the valves. I pull the carb and do a bit of cleaning. I pull the airbox. I do absolutely everything I can think of but the bike refuses to run. Finally, after hours in the sun with no water or food, my wife convinces me to call for help. I am defeated. No pictures were taken during this part of the day - with the amount of curse words being thrown around, my wife doubted that it would be the proper time for a photograph. Finally, I decide to call some friends to come pick us up with a trailer and as we’re sitting in the tiny bit of shade that we find under a small tree, a man stops and gets out of his car. Much to my chagrin, it is a good friend of my dad. He talks with us for a few minutes, hears that we’re okay and that we have a ride lined up, and leaves us with a chuckle. “All the way to Canada, huh?”, he says before taking off. Minutes later, our phones are choked with the calls of friends and family asking what has happened. Awesome. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/3.jpg Finally, after several more hours of waiting (thankfully a kind woman stopped and gave us water, grapes and cherries), we’re picked up and driven back home. After talking to Ken Storm (our faithful dealer), we decide to drive 5 hours to Dallas to stay with a friend and take our bike into Stormseller Motorcycles. What a day…what a depressing first day… http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2671.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_0038.jpg Day 1 mileage by bike: 60 miles Day 1 mileage by car: 400 miles Bugs On My Face |
Day 2
We wake up the next morning, after getting into Dallas way too late the night before, and head over to Stormsellers. For those that don't know, Ken Storm is about as standup of a guy as any man walking the earth. I trust him. A lot. Anyway, we get to the shop and bring the bike in. Ken and I start talking and checking some things: valves, carbs, plugs, airbox, etc. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_0042.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_0134.jpg Finally, after several hours, we realize that the engine has almost no compression. Something is very, very wrong. Ken tells me that he'd like to keep the bike for at least a day to check out some other things - namely, taking the heads off and having a look inside. After wandering around his shop a bit more we take our leave and head to my buddy's house to wait for a phone call. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_0136.jpg a '55 Ural in the shop! Later that night (yes, he worked into the night to get me some information), Ken calls and gives me horrible news. My left head needs to be replaced and he will need to order parts to do the job properly. This news basically slows our trip to a stall. We only have a month and a half to go across North America, and this type of hold up is not what we were hoping for. Again, dejected and defeated, we decide to head home the next day. Day 2 mileage: 0 Bugs On My Face |
Day 3 and 4
So we went home, thinking that our bike was destined to sit in the shop for weeks while we waited for parts. I spent the next day pouting and acting generally pretty pissy while we went back to our normal way of life, sans Ural. Then, while sitting on the throne on Friday, I received a call from Ken. "I have some good news, your bike is ready to go!" I nearly jumped off the pot without taking care of my business first. "How is this possible? I thought you had to order parts?" "Well, let's just say I found a way..." So Ken was a hero that day. We were both extremely excited and couldn't wait for the next day so that we could finally get our trip underway. Day 3 and 4 mileage: 0 Bugs On My Face |
Day 5
And this brings us to today. My wife and I woke up this morning, tossed our gear in our car and headed to Dallas, once again. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/5.jpg We saw this bumper sticker on the way. I have to say, I kinda look like a hippie with my long hair and was scared. We arrived at about 2 and were overjoyed to see our bike eagerly awaiting our return. Ken explained to me that he just happen to have a perfectly good, used head that (after getting it cleared with Ural first) was used to replace my broken parts under warranty. The main culprit had been a busted valve guide that was causing all sorts of problems. Here's the little trouble maker. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/6.jpg And again. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/7.jpg I had never seen these models in person before - wowee. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2683.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2684.jpg Again with the '55. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2682.jpg Before I took off with my bike, however, Ken suggested I take it for a quick ride. I eagerly jumped on and took off down the street. Less than a mile later, the bike died. I coasted to the shoulder and immediately began spouting curse words. I called Ken on the phone and he was on the scene in minutes. He got out of his car, took a few minutes to assess the situation then asked, "Does it have gas?". I am a schmuck. We returned to the shop, and I got my wallet out to pay. Yet, when I asked how much I owed, Ken told me $20! Twenty-freaking-dollars for hours and hours of work! And really, all I paid for was the extra tube and tube repair I had done by his shop. If that doesn't say something about how Ural takes care of their customers, I don't know what will. Not only that, Ken went out of his way to make my trip possible. I will not forget that... With the savior of our trip. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/8.jpg Anyway, our trip was finally on! We spent the next 2 hours fighting our way out of the DFW area. Can I say I hate driving in the city? It sucks. We were sweaty and I was tired from all the stop and go but we were happy. It was weird - we were just happy to be on the road after such a strange couple of days. When we finally got out of town, the ride really started. It was early evening, the roads were small and empty, and all seemed right with the world. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2689.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2690.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/sky.jpg We stopped just outside of Dallas in a town called Mineral Wells for the night and we are stoked for what's coming next! Day 5 mileage: 127 miles Bugs On My Face |
Day 6:
Today was our first full day on the road and it was... hot. Not just hot, it was frickin' hot! I can't believe how much water we consumed and how dehydrated we still are. We definitely started out way too late (9:00 am) from Mineral Wells, TX and missed some of the cooler weather of the morning. We won't make that mistake again. Either way, the day was filled with back roads and nearly empty highways. The perfect playground for the Ural. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/1a.jpg And you can never complain about those Texas skies. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/2a.jpg I believe my favorite moment of the day came when we came back to our bike after having lunch at Buck's in Knox City. A guy with an eye patch (no, i'm not kidding) was standing near our bike, checking her out, and as we walked up he chuckled and nodded, "Now that is a kick ass bike. I have a heritage classic, but I'm guessing that not even my bike tracks as much stink as this." "Well, sir", I said trying to hold back a laugh, "I wouldn't be surprised if you were right." I definitely had never heard that phrase but will be using it soon. Our seats were so hot after lunch, Kristen tried to cool it down with some water but I swear it immediately boiled off. It was ridiculous. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/3a.jpg We then tried a few things to cool off, one involving some undressing in public. It turns out that if you douse your shirt with water, then put your riding jack back on, it cools you off for a short time. Better than nothing, I guess... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/4a.jpg One of the more exciting moments of the day involved an unknown insect and the inside of my shorts. After spending 6, or so, hours on roads like this, getting blasted by the sun we stopped and did some of this. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/5a.jpg and this. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/6a.jpg Anyway, we made it to Plainview, TX and were tired enough to stop for the evening. By the way, the bike ran beautifully. Honestly better than ever - even in the heat. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/7a.jpg Can't wait for tomorrow and for the cooler weather that we must be headed towards. Day 6 mileage: 300 or so (I need to pay better attention tomorrow) Click here for our Spot Tracker: SPOT Shared Page Bugs On My Face |
Day 6 and 7
We started off yesterday with burnt hands and kneecaps - for whatever reason, we had neglected to realize that we have a few parts of our bodies that are completely exposed to the sun. Whoops... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/10.jpg Anyway, we had much nicer weather as we entered into New Mexico via RR 1058. The sun was shinning but the breeze was much cooler than the dragons breath that beat us down through Texas. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-1.jpg At some point on our way towards Tucumcari, we came upon this nice, scenic viewpoint and decided to take a quick glamour shot. So we took this - http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-1.jpg but immediately afterwards, Kristen leaned against the exhaust pipe, resulting in this: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-1.jpg As you can imagine, she wasn't very happy about that. But she's a trooper and I hardly heard anything about it. After stopping for lunch in Tucumcari and driving for a little ways north, we came upon a pretty threatening sight. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/11.jpg There were dark clouds and rain seemingly all around but instead of turning around and heading back the way we came, we decided to prepare ourselves and continue on through the weather. It took us a moment to get everything put in a few waterproof bags then we moved forward. The wind was incredible. It was impossible to keep the bike up to speed but thankfully there wasn't a heavy downpour. We eventually made it through the weather and began to climb towards Las Vegas, NM. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-1.jpg But as soon as the elevation started to rise, you guessed it, the bike freaked out. It spat and sputtered and complained and moaned as we struggled to keep a steady 30 mph. Thankfully, the scenery wasn't half bad even though I had to do a lot of this: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-1.jpg So we eventually stumbled into town at about 8 pm and decided to stay the night in a Best Western instead of camping. I just left the bike to be dealt with the next day. So I woke up early after sleeping well and dug into my bike's problems. After consulting a few people, I pulled the plugs and cleaned them, pulled the air filter box and cleaned that, took the shim out of the needle in the carbs and cleaned those. Even with all that done, the bike still ran so horribly that I gave in and phoned for help. As we speak, an extremely kind and generous man named Chuck, who has never met me, is driving 180 miles from Clovis, NM to save our bike from any further damage I might bring upon it. Man, Canada seems a long way away... |
Day 8
I have to say that with my last post came a lot of frustration. I'm just learning how to do a lot of this stuff on the go and am never aware if I'm really doing it correctly. But to catch up with pictures, the day started like this - with chores. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-2.jpg Kristen started with the important stuff, like getting us clean underwear, then headed up to complete a entry for our website leaving me to start work on the bike. My portable workstation: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-2.jpg My beautifully fouled plugs: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-2.jpg A dirty, rotten punk that mocked me throughout all my work in the parking lot: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-2.jpg I finally broke after checking everything I could think of and finding that it still ran like crap. We ended up going to eat at the peak of my frustration across the street at a truck stop which ended up being the worst food I'd had in years. I couldn't even bring myself to take a picture. After that, I threw my pride out the window, and called a fellow SS member, Chuck, to my aid. Now Chuck lives in Clovis, NM - 3 hours away! And he gladly drove up with a trailer and a ton of experience and wisdom to our rescue. He arrived and we immediately got down to it. First, we started the bike and he noticed that something sounded completely off straight away. It turns out that the washer that seats the spark plug on the right side was completely flat - which caused a leak. The plugs themselves were so fouled that they were pretty much useless anyway, so we chunked them and put new plugs in. Right away, the bike idled nicely. Did I just have Chuck come up to change out my plugs??? Thankfully, he was extremely thorough and we checked my airfilter again and also changed out my pilot jet. After screwing around a bit, my bike really felt like normal. Chuck showing me a thing or two (or 20): http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-1.jpg Chuck then suggested we take the bike - fully loaded - and test it out properly. So, we took a quick drive and found that everything seemed to run quite normal. SUCCESS! Chuck - you're a super guy and we can't thank you enough for your time. Thanks so much and if you're ever in San Antonio and need anything, be sure to let me know. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-2.jpg After a hard day of work (cough, cough) we spent the last part of our night relaxing. Tomorrow we head up through the mountains! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-2.jpg Day 8 mileage: 23 miles |
Day 9 and 10
After getting some much needed help and guidance from Chuck, we headed north towards Angel Fire. But not before Kristen caught up on reading her favorite publication. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-3.jpg Packing up: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-3.jpg Kristen and I had never been in this part of the country and were seriously floored by how unbelievably beautiful it was. I'm not totally sure, but I think it was 38 that took us north and I have to tell you, I've never been on a better ride. It was a two-lane road and we hardly saw any other cars. Unreal. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/13.jpg After having some lunch in Angel Fire, we kept heading north to Eagle Nest and Red River. If you haven't traveled in this area, you should. It is so gorgeous and late August seems to be ideal for the weather. We then hit 522 in Questa until we connected with 159 - in Colorado! I have to say that we were pretty excited about getting here since we've had a few hiccups in our trip - mainly due to my ignorance in maintenance. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/15.jpg Feeling good, and with the bike running super strong, we kept on to Monte Vista and to South Fork before realizing that the sun was quickly setting behind the mountains. Luckily, we ran into a great little campground that was totally empty except for the manager. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/12.jpg Kristen had some fun with night photography as the sky gleamed with stars. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/11-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/10-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/9-1.jpg We slept amazingly good with the sound of the river in the background and the cool, mountain air filling our tent. We woke early the next morning and prepared for a long day. I don't know if you guys know, but it's cold in the mountains! We, Texans, don't get weather like this very often, so Kristen and I bundled up and headed up through Lake City and on to Gunnison. Again, unbelievable riding and Elga stayed strong even at 13,500 ft (even if we had to go some stretches in 2nd gear)! Again, if you haven't ridden 149 between Creede and Lake City, you should. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_2954.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-2.jpg We then rode to Gunnison which was actually a pretty cool town. I wish we could have stayed longer. But seeing as it was early afternoon, a decision had to be made - go west towards Montrose or east towards Buena Vista. "What about Aspen?", Kristen asked me. Aspen sounded great, so we plugged it into the GPS and blindly followed the seemingly direct route that it wanted us to go right through Gunnison National Forrest. After 20 minutes or so, we hit dirt. "Awesome", I thought. And it really was, for the first 30 minutes or so. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/9-2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/7-2-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/8-2-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/5-2-1.jpg But after looking at our GPS again, and seeing that we still had 45 miles to go, we decided that it might be midnight by the time we rolled into Aspen at that pace. So, regretfully, we turned around. Making it back to Gunnison, we made the hard decision to bypass the mountains to the east and head west to Montrose. If we were going to make it to Canada, we definitely needed to eat some road. On the way to Montrose via highway 50: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/2-2-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/3-2-1.jpg So we stayed in Montrose last night, but before sleeping I did a quick air filter cleaning, spark plug brushing and added some oil. A great day and a comfortable bed... |
Day 11
Today was a bit different than the past couple that we've spent in the mountains. The scenery was so different and it was hot again! I got a bit spoiled riding at 60F. Anyway, we headed north from Montrose up Highway 50 towards Grand Junction, and we hit a milestone for this trip. We broke 75 mph for the first time this trip! Without any gear loaded on the bike, it's not such a big deal, but I was surprised with so much weight on the rig. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_3091.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-3.jpg We then headed on and rode a particularly nice and mountainous section between Loma and Rangely. Beautiful and much cooler than earlier in the day. It was actually very steep in a few sections and I got stuck going about 20 mph. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/9-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_5088.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_5089.jpg We then headed northwest towards Vernal, Utah where we rode past a few places that had more than a few dinosaurs milling about... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/11-2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-4.jpg While headed to a hotel for the night, we came across a really nice war memorial where we spent a few moments paying our respects. VFW Post 5560. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-3.jpg After checking in, I spotted a sweet ride across the street that begged to have its picture taken with our rig. Beautiful! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-4.jpg A great day! We head through Flaming Gorge tomorrow then onto Grand Tetons. |
Day 12
Much to our own surprise, we left Vernal before 9 am - upon realizing so, we gave ourselves a huge pat on the back because we are usually leaving much closer to 10. The climb into Flaming Gorge is subtle but enough to give the Ural a bit of a challenge. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/24.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-5.jpg In fact, it's steep enough that not only were trucks passing us but, embarrasingly, a Smart Car even shot past us at one point. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-5.jpg We kept climbing into the park until it became quite apparent that we needed to either change the spark plugs or at least clean them, so I pulled over and did a little work. As I was doing so, Kristen spotted a red sidecar rig going by and we both hoped we would run into them before leaving the park. Unfortunately, we got held up by a very nice (but super talkative) man who only let us out of his grasp after nearly half an hour. We continued on towards the dam and pulled into a parking lot there to find the red sidecar! A 1989 Moto Guzzi from Switzerland traveling from Chicago to Los Angeles for their Honeymoon. Some of the nicest people we've come across and I wished we had more time with them. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-4.jpg We eventually left them to check out one of the scenic viewpoints (which I can't remember what it was called, but it was the best part of the park). http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/26.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-5.jpg Before we left Flaming Gorge, we had some more great scenery and even saw some wildlife - they were really, really close and we felt fortunate to have seen them. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/25.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/22.jpg After leaving the park and entering Green River, we decided to try and make a run for Jackson, WY, before dark even though it was early afternoon. It was about 200 miles and so we saddled up and got ready for a sprint. Unfortunately, southwest Wyoming is pretty flat and VERY windy. We had a strong headwind nearly the entire way. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/21.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/20.jpg Definitely some pretty spots along the way, though. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/19.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/15-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-1.jpg Then, after hitting La Barge on 189, I suddenly realized that we were in serious danger of getting caught in the dark - which was something I really wanted to avoid. Especially since a man at the gas station there told us the valley before Jackson was filled with wildlife that constantly crossed the road at night. We hoped on the bike, feeling a bit anxious, when she provided us with a moment of Zen. For the last 115 kms, our Russian steed did not leave 4th gear. She purred forward at 55 and 60 mph through hills that she was no designed to climb at speed. She darted through corners as nimbly as any bike on the road. Her sweet putter was replaced with a roar that we had not heard before. And before we knew it, we were in Jackson while the sun had yet to set. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/12-1.jpg We spent the night in this cabin and seeing as everything else in town was super expensive (the front desk guy at the Best Western scoffed at my face when I was shocked at the $270 pricetag for one night), it was quite reasonable for a standalone room. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/31.jpg Kristen liked it and Jackson so much that we decided to stay another night which was good cause I needed to do a few things for the bike. I cleaned out the air filter, replaced the plugs (again) and decided to put my spare on the pusher and my pusher on the hack because of some unusual wear. I never knew the hack tire would wear like this. Is it because of the weight the sidecar is hauling? http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/27.jpg Anyway, today we head off for Grand Tetons and Yellowstone - Kristen is feeling inspired! |
Day 13 and 14
So several days have passed since our last report, but we were in places where our internet was extremely limited. Time to catch up! First, it's important that I mention that I had one of the best burgers I've ever eaten in Jackson. I think the place was called Billy's (it's on the square) and basically, it's an open kitchen with a bar around it. A cook makes burgers and dogs on a grill that has probably never been cleaned and it is the greasiest, most unhealthy, beautiful thing I've eaten in a long time. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-6.jpg Anyway, we left Jackson and headed on into the Grand Tetons feeling extremely optimistic. But after about 5 minutes of leaving town, we ran into the mother of all traffic jams because of construction. When considering either Yellowstone or Tetons, know that you will run into other vehicles. Not fun, especially when everyone wants to fly around these mountain roads. Urals are not known for their speed.... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...43/traffic.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/traffic2.jpg Despite the traffic, these parks are gorgeous. Mount Moran and Jenny Lake in the Tetons were spectacular even with the moody weather. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-5.jpg The master at work: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s.../themaster.jpg After spending some time there and having a fantastic fish sandwich for a cool $10, we headed into Yellowstone. Immediately upon entering the park, we hit even more traffic. Like the good tourists that we are, we headed directly towards Old Faithful. After making our way through the hordes of cars, we were about to turn left into the main parking lot when a gentlemen in a Suburban swerved in front of us from the right lane and nearly caused an accident. It was the closest we'd had all trip and needless to say, I was a bit annoyed. But even with the frustration, it turns out Old Faithful was worth it. It was an unbelievable display of nature's glory and we felt blessed to have seen such a show. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-2.jpg (I'll throw up some video when I get the chance) Afterwards, we hopped back on the bike and headed for the nearest campsite. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/11-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/12-2.jpg We slept (or at least I did) like babies but Kristen woke up wondering how I ever talked her into this trip. It turns out it gets cold in the mountains! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/10-4.jpg Maybe we shouldn't have camped next to the lake...whoops. Anyway, after eating breakfast and packing up, we drove around the park a bit more (Kristen finally tried out her heated gear and is now in love), saw a few elk being eternally pestered by a flock of photographers, then headed out the west exit. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/9-5.jpg That afternoon was the real treat. Montana is gorgeous. Even Kristen, a beach lover, told me she was ready to move. Hebgen Lake and the surrounding area was beautiful and we had a fantastic day of riding until getting to Butte and highway 90. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/16-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/13-2.jpg We decided to jump on the interstate for a quick jaunt when the skies opened up. We both got drenched as there was no exit in sight and spent decided after another 20 minutes of riding to find a place for the night. We rolled into Deer Lodge and stayed at a motel/casino directly across the street from the local prison. More on that later after Kristen edits the pictures from today. So you know, for now we are resting our heads at my Uncle's place in Bigfork. Until tomorrow... |
Day 14
We woke up feeling moderately rested at the classy Sharf’s Motor Inn and headed down for our breakfast. This is worth mentioning because while Kristen had a nice, healthy meal of eggs and toast, I had a cinnamon roll that had been sliced like bread, fried and served like pancakes with syrup and powdered sugar. I could actually hear myself getting fatter. With a belly full of goodness, we walked across the street to take a tour of Old Montana Prison. The woman in charge of the hotel told us to get there early so that we wouldn’t, “get caught up in the crowds”. The crowds? Really? How many people stop in this town, anyway? http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-7.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-7.jpg It turns out that we were put in our place after being extremely skeptical because there were quite a few people touring the prison. Enough people, in fact, that at several point we actually had to hang back so that we could eventually see the “attraction” after the crowds thinned. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_3386.jpg “Why would you ever go to something like this?” you might ask. We honestly went to poke fun at such an odd tourist trap and left feeling completely creeped out. This place was straight out of The Shawshank Redemption! The cells were tiny, there were bars everywhere, the air was thick with a bad history, and the ‘hole’ was horrid (not big enough to stand or lay down). http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-7.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-6.jpg The creepiest part, however, were the gallows. In a Hitchcockesque setting, they stood in a building where pigeons had taken up residence. The birds cooed in a horribly haunting way. It was just wrong. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-7.jpg Our payment also got us into a car museum, which was actually very impressive… http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-7.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-7.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_3415.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_3419.jpg …and a place called Yesterday’s Playthings. Inside were hundreds of toys, train sets, and dolls. Did I mention that I hate dolls? They are sinister creations and I cannot stand to be around them. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/10-5.jpg We then packed up and jumped on Elga to drive a beautiful 200 miles to our Aunt and Uncle’s house in Bigfork, Montana. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/11-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/12-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/13-3.jpg So, today we did a bit of shopping in town (Kristen found a ring that she adores), cooked lunch and I did Elga’s 10,000 km service. I actually enjoy working on the bike, but today I woke up with the worst back and neck pain I’ve ever had. I'm hunched over like I'm from Notre Dame and doing the service was a bit of chore. Hopefully some rest will do me good. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-3.jpg Tomorrow we leave for Glacier National Park and, finally, CANADA! |
Day 15 ... actually that's not even right as our trip actually started on August 19. But anyway...
Kristen and I spent the past few days hanging out in Bigfork, Montana at my Aunt and Uncle's house right on the Swan River. It was fantastic and relaxing and just a great stop for us. I did have one small problem, however. Apparently, my riding position is not very healthy for my body as when I woke up 3 days ago, I could hardly turn my head. i developed a nasty pinch in between my shoulder blades and felt fairly crippled the last couple of days. Nonetheless, I spent a couple hours doing the 10,000 km service on the bike - unfortunately I couldn't do all the things on the list but I did as much as I could. I also had some tires shipped from Heindl Engineering (he's a great guy if you ever need parts or service) and spent $50 a tire getting them changed! I feel so embarrassed but I honestly couldn't do it myself because my back was absolutely killing me. Anyway, we finally got back on the road a couple of days ago and headed into Glacier National Park. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-8.jpg Following the suggestions of several riders, we headed straight for the 'Going to the Sun Road' and found it to be truly awe inspiring. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-7.jpg The only problem was that halfway up to the summit, we ran into some pretty serious weather. The truth is we got caught in a downpour. Not only that but it was cold and windy and extremely busy with traffic. I think I would like to come back some day and do this again at a different time because the clouds covered much of our view and I really think that this could be a special ride. Either way, we left the park after finishing the road to find some lunch, but before doing so we gassed up. At the station, an attendant, named Ivan, came up to us and said, 'An Oooral! You 'ave an Oooral!' It turns out Ivan was from somewhere in Eastern Europe and was absolutely in shock to see a Ural in America. 'Zees ees sheet! You need a Harley... Back een my cuuntree, my fazer 'as many Ooorals. But he would trade zem all fer a Harley.' What I thought was most funny about the encounter was that he could not believe that my bike had an electric start. I have a feeling the Urals that he's used to are very different than my 2007. Anyway, we left the park and headed northwest towards Waterton Lake National Park but before we arrived we achieved a major accomplishment: we made it to Canada! On the way to the border: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-7.jpg We then crossed the border and spent a good amount of time enjoying Waterton (which is actually connected to Glacier and is absolutely gorgeous). http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/9-7.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/15-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/9-7.jpg We'd really like to go back to Waterton and maybe stay at the Prince of Wales Hotel (pictured). It looks like a cool anniversary spot - you can even scuba in the lake! We then drove a ways farther north to Pincher Creek where we spent the night. It was a fantastic day, despite some moody weather - we'll post more soon! |
Entry 13
So I know that the UDF has been discussed quite frequently on this board but I can attest that it is in full force with several large bags strapped onto my rig! We have met so many people on this trip - literally every stop - and more than a few have given us their information to offer housing or a meal or aid if we need it. Pretty spectacular if you ask me. Before we left Pincher Creek today, we had a nice breakfast with such a family we met (the couple had two young boys who adored the Ural) and then took off across the windy Alberta farmlands towards Banff. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/1-9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/2-9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/3-9.jpg We stopped for gas in Longview and saw a three-wheeled contraption for sale that we should buy for our next big trip. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-8.jpg After getting some advice from a local, we headed west off of 22 towards Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and I can tell you that despite the rain and wind and cold, the views were absolutely worth it. It is definitely a wild looking park and has some serious wild beauty. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/7-9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/6-9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/9-8.jpg While in the park, we also had to laugh at how the cattle guards are named here in Canada: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-8.jpg TEXAS GATE! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/5-9.jpg We then kept heading north until we ran smack into the superslab that is 1, and headed west to Banff. Upon entering the park, the weather turned sour and seeing as Kristen was threatening physical pain if I made her sleep in the wet and cold outdoors, we headed to the town of Banff to find a hotel room. After I turned around on the highway, we were suddenly being followed by a suspicious red BMW. They followed us for several miles and even into the gas station we stopped at when we arrived in town. It turns out that the owner and his wife almost bought a Ural for their current cross-country trip and were super excited to see one on the road. We ended up having a few beers with them and then splitting an overpriced hotel room together. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/10-7.jpg Good times on the road! |
Entry 14
Before I start on the report, a funny thing happened that I feel the need to share. We have another blog site (bugsonmyface.com) that our family checks pretty regularly. Two entries ago, we mentioned that we were sharing a room with a couple and we referred to the guy with his nickname, Johnny Big Lure (it's a fishing nickname, not referring to a certain appendage). Anyway, right after we posted, Kristen's dad sent this email, "What does Johnny Big Lure mean? It sounds like mafia. You didn't really share a room did you?" Kristen just about lost her mind laughing so hard because he was entirely serious. Anyway... We survived our night with the total strangers (who are now friends, for sure) and left them to head north through the park while they went to have breakfast. The morning started pretty rough - Kristen had a really strong allergic reaction to something and the glands in her eyes swelled to an unbelievable size, it was cold and raining, the traffic was pretty nutty and a serious disaster happened before we ate the worst burger of all time. Kristen was getting out of the sidecar and forgot that the camera was on her lap. She hoped out (it's a delicate move since there's so much stuff packed in there, not to mention the gas can strapped to the step) and the camera crashed to the ground. Busted. No more G9. So, she was really pissed about that when we walked up to Lake Louise. I have to say, even with the cloud cover, rain and people - it's very beautiful. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/7-10.jpg We each have 5 layers of clothes on - wow, we look thick. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_5294.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/8-9.jpg We left after looking around the hotel on the lake (which I'm sure is insanely expensive) and drove north to the Ice Fields Parkway. As we got to the gate, I stopped on the side of the road to fish my wallet out so I wouldn't hold up traffic when the girl in the booth started yelling and waving us over. We drove up, confused, and she exclaimed, "I've been waiting for you! Your friends passed this way about an hour ago. I'm so glad to see you guys!" We were understandably confused, but it turns out Kim and Johnny Big Lure had taken the same route and had chatted it up with this girl. We talked for a bit and then she said, "Best be on your way", with a wink before I could pay. We drove onto the parkway feeling a bit better about things. Let me tell you, the Ice Fields Parkway that connects Banff and Jasper is the most stunning drive I have ever been on. Jagged mountains are everywhere, glaciers and glacial lakes and rivers dot the scenery and the trees are unbelievably thick. I think Bow Lake was even more blue than Louise: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-10.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/4-9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-10.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/5-10.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-10.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-10.jpg Kristen wanted me to mention she did not alter the blue of the lakes in these pictures. It ACTUALLY looks like that. Anyway, we crossed over Bow Pass when we hit our first bit of serious weather on this trip. We were driving along when all of a sudden a white wall seemed to form in front of us. We were engulfed in snow. Thankfully, we had heated clothing on and simply laughed at the situation. The snow lasted for about 20 minutes of driving then dissipated. A bit later we saw some wildlife climbing about: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/1-10.jpg The ravens are freaking enormous: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_5323.jpg We drove a bit farther and passed into Jasper National Park. We climbed into the Columbia Ice Field and were once again blown away by nature as we took a hike onto an actual glacier. We don't have any pics from the hike (the snow and wind was intense) but I do have these: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_0077.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_0078.jpg We then drove into Jasper for the night and slept soundly after fighting with the weather all day. |
Entry 15
Wow. I have a lot of report as we've had pretty horrible internet connections for the past few days. So here goes: Before we got to Jasper, we took time to climb up to a glacier and I made this: When we left Jasper, we immediately had two female wolves run right in front of us across the highway. Unfortunately, our little camera was broken so we missed a pic but it was great to see. But we decided to cough up more money at a Walmart for a new one (that's what credit cards are for, right?). Broken on the right, new and tiny on the left: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_0079.jpg After about 10 minutes on the road before leaving Jasper, however, a pretty stiff head wind picked up. We thought that it was possibly just coming off the mountains, but it continued to pick up throughout the day and by the time we reached Dawson Creek, I was pretty well fed up with it. It was probably the most frustrating day of driving on the trip. I think I'd take rainy and cold over windy any day. We did a lot of this due to the wind: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-11.jpg But the scenery wasn't half bad. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/7-11.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-11.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/10-8.jpg We eventually made it to the Alaska Highway: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/5-11.jpg And we felt pretty good about ourselves, to be honest. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-11.jpg We noticed very early on that the farther north you get, the more eccentric the gas stations become. This one featured Sasquatch. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/8-10.jpg After Dawson Creek, we made our way to Fort Nelson through much of the same scenery and more wind and rain. Fort Nelson turned out to be a pretty interesting experience, as it turns out, mainly because of a few people we met there. We were sitting out in the parking lot as the air filter dried when a trucker and helicopter pilot came up and starting chatting with us. The first thing we learned (after answering the normal questions, aka 'how old is the bike?', 'where was it made?', 'is the sidecar comfortable?') was that Fort Nelson was scheduled to grow in population from 2,000 to 80,000 over the next year! The biggest gas find in North America was just discovered very near the town and so there are business men everywhere trying to get a piece. Secondly, the trucker gave us our favorite quote of the trip thus far. In giving us advice about the road ahead, he said, "There are animals everywhere and they ain't afraid of the road, eh? It's $#&%*#$ Jurassic Park out there, eh?" Kristen couldn't help herself and laughed out loud and the guy was a real sport about it. And now, every time we see any wildlife, we sing the Jurassic Park theme song very loudly. Here's Kristen beating my pants off at gin in the parking lot. 10 games. Who knew my wife was such a card shark? http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/1-12.jpg The drive between Jasper and Fort Nelson was pretty uneventful scenery-wise, but it was gorgeous on the way to Watson Lake. Even though it rained nearly the entire time as we wound our way through the mountains, it was great. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/11-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-12.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/8-11.jpg To get a feel for this part of the country, you need to know that every gas station up here is multipurpose. They are also a restaurant, camp ground, tire repair station, store and private residence. I guess they have to be that way because services are hard to come by this far north. We're honestly excited every time we come to a place because they're all so unique. We had homemade beef and barely soup at one: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/4-11.jpg One boasted a huge collection of hats: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/9-11.jpg We also saw a ton of wildlife. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-12.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/10-9.jpg Oh, and the buffalo don't get out of the way for anybody. This guy stood in the middle of the road and just stared us down for 5 minutes. I was intimidated. After 10 hours of driving, we came flying into Watson Lake as it was getting dark and struggled to find accommodation: We woke up the next morning and spent a bit of time at the Sign Forest. It's odd and definitely worth the stop. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/17-2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/12-5.jpg We then drove through a sea of trees that were all changing with the season. Really beautiful. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/15-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/16-2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/7-12.jpg After a nice drive, we ended up in Whitehorse - the capital of Yukon. There are only 24,000 residents in the whole province and 18,500 live in Whitehorse. It's pretty modern and the good weather allowed me to do a quick fluid change before sleep. More in a bit... |
Entry 16
Wow. I have a lot of report to catch up on! Hang on, boys and girls, this is gonna be a long one and I'm certain it will be a precursor to our most exciting post... During our ride from Whitehorse to Dawson I remembered how important good weather is to a fun ride. It was absolutely perfect - sun shinning, no wind, pleasant temperature - after the past few days of variable conditions, it was a real treat. Speaking of treats, our first stop gave way to the revelation that they make enormous cinnamon rolls in the Yukon! This thing was bigger than my head and that is saying a lot: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/1-13.jpg The sea of yellow surrounding us as we drove north was breathtaking. The changing of the seasons here is very apparent and is a constant reminder that we shouldn't take our time or else we could be caught in some pretty nasty weather. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-13.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-13.jpg The traffic was definitely light this far north and I'm assuming it is because the summer season is nearly finished. Nonetheless, we made a few stops at various places Kristen had read about. Some were definitely a little reminiscent of a setting from movies like The Texas Chainsaw Massacre - in all reality the people are all very, very nice and considerate. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/4-12.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-13.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/7-13.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/8-12.jpg We rolled into Dawson City just before dark and found it to be pretty charming. They've really sold out to recreating the days of the Gold Rush and we had a good time wandering around. In fact, due to waking up a bit too late and some heavy rain, we decided to stay an extra day before heading further north. We even had a few people buy us drinks due only to the Ural. Well done, bike. Well done. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/9-12.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/10-10.jpg But the Dempster was waiting! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/d1.jpg We woke up early a few days ago and put on our game face. I researched for a year to get the chance to ride the Dempster and I think I may have psyched myself out in doing so. I was a bit anxious as we filled up for the last time at the junction of the Klondike Highway and the Dempster and seeing as it was raining pretty steadily, I suppose I had the right to be nervous. For anyone that doesn't know (I'm sure most of you do) the Dempster is 417 miles of dirt, gravel and mud. It's an amazing feat of engineering that allows it to be driven through the entire year through some seriously extreme weather. Most importantly, it is an ever-changing road because of the weather and can shift from being dry and hard to wet and slushy in an instant. Anyway, we had been given a ton of advice from locals who all told us the number one thing to remember is to yield! Yield to everybody, especially the truckers. So after snapping a few pictures at mile 0, we headed north, unaware at how dirty we were about to become. We quickly learned that the Dempster gives you three types of mud: slick and bumpy where with bits of rock and gravel scattered about where the dirt is thin, huge puddles of wet mud that sprays you with grey and black, and (my favorite) deep and slushy mud that forces you to ski as you attempt a balance between control and chaos. I can definitely say that I was never bored. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d18.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/d2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d17.jpg Although the road is a bit challenging, the scenery is unbelievable. The landscapes are constantly changing and there is wildlife everywhere. At times, Kristen and I really felt as if we were on another planet. It is unbelievable. We also noticed that the few cars we saw reacted even more than usual to our bike. We always get attention, but these people pumped their fists in the air and honked and waved in encouragement. At least I hope it was in encouragement...:wink: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d11.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d14.jpg My favorite: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/d4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/d8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d20.jpg We continued on through the day and received a good mix of sun and rain while the road continued to be muddy and slick (especially through the mountains). By the time we reached our first stop in Eagle Plains, I was pretty tired, to say the least. And dirty - so dirty. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ymatt43/d6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d23.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d22.jpg Eagle Plains is the first place to find services and is 215 miles from mile 0. Don’t get this place confused with a town. It’s really only a series of buildings that offers gas, tire repair, a restaurant and bar, and a ton of expensive rooms to sleep in for the night. It’s open all year round and features some of the unfriendliest and intimidating staff we’ve ever seen. Of course, Kristen’s charm can be resisted by none… It also is full of dogs (we’re guessing they belonged to the truckers that drive the Dempster) all of whom were extremely well behaved and joined us in the dining room. So after peeling away our nasty clothes and eating a quick dinner, we collapsed in our beds and slept soundly through the night. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d24.jpg To be continued... |
We woke up feeling rested, ate a quick breakfast and piled our dirty gear back on the mud-caked Ural. After filling up with gas we hit the road again found that we were immediately encompassed in a cloud. Eagle Plains is at a pretty high elevation and as we descended, we were thrust onto the movie set of Sleepy Hollow.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d25.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d26.jpg After coming down onto the plains, we reached a pivotal point on our trip. After 25 days and a little over 4500 miles, we crossed into the Arctic Circle! A nice woman from NY, who had driven the Dempster just to get a shot of the sign with a rubber chicken, took our picture and then turned back south after telling us that there was nothing to see farther north. We hoped on the bike and headed onwards anyway and had not been driving for more than 5 minutes when we stumbled upon the most exciting part of our entire trip. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d28.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d29.jpg It takes a special woman to go on a trip like this... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d30.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d31.jpg Kristen had just sent an email to her mom that morning about how disappointed she was that she hadn’t seen a bear. We had been told, and warned, about how we were heading into the most densely populated area of Grizzly’s in the world. So, we had expected to see them everywhere but were disappointed day after day. This day, however, turned out to be quite different. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d33.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d44.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d45.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d43.jpg We were driving along an especially open and flat area when Kristen spotted something in the distance. “Matt, what is that?”, she asked me while pointing to the right of the road. As we got closer we realized that we were 100 yards away from a Grizzly! I stopped the bike and Kristen snapped a few pictures with our small point-and-shoot as the bear lazily wandered in our general direction. As he got a closer, Kristen got a bit more nervous (and rightly so) and tensely pulled out her bigger camera with a zoom lens. About that time, a construction worker with his wife pulled up in their truck. They both hopped out with a camera and I took that as a cue to jump off the bike and take the camera from Kristen to get a better angle of the bear (who was now behind us on the road). The bear continued to get closer and as Kristen got out of the sidecar, the man turned to us and said, “Umm, I think it’s about time that you folks get in my truck…”. Upon hearing that, our eyes got a bit larger and we sprinted for the door as the bear trotted up the road. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-14.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/1-14.jpg I then realized that getting off the bike was a horrible idea. The bear ran up to the bike and immediately started sniffing around. The man and his wife rolled down their windows and started yelling and honking the horn but the bear wouldn’t take a hint. Eventually, the man basically shoved the bear away from our faithful steed (who smiled through the whole affair) with his truck and after some tense moments the bear finally walked a ways down the road. Seeing that it was far enough away, Kristen and I jumped out of the truck and quickly put our gear back on while the truck waiting for us, just in case. After thanking our saviors, we sped away to the north and decided to leave the bike running every time we stopped in the future. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/4-13.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-14.jpg The rest of the day was filled with more mud, blue skies, and a mysterious snack. On the way north, you have to cross two rives on two separate ferries. We shared one of them with a nice woman who offered us a treat while we waited. Kristen loved it. We’re not totally sure what is was but it was definitely fishy. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d37.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d38.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d39.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d40.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d36.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d34.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d32.jpg And so, at about 8:30 pm yesterday evening we reached our final destination. The town of Inuvik is as far north as you can drive (without aid of the ice road in the winter) and is end of the Dempster Highway. We’re now staying at a chalet that raises sled dogs (huskies everywhere!). More on that tomorrow before we head south once again! Off to an evening hike and pancake dinner! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d42.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...matt43/d41.jpg |
Entry 18
Inuvik, like all the communities of the north, is a phenomenon of fortitude. To live here, you have to expect extremes in everything. The weather can be brutally cold and is constantly changing, in the summer months the sun never sets and in the dead of winter it never rises, the bugs are unbearably persistent, the cost of goods are tremendous and services are hard to come by. All in all, this is a rugged place and the people have to match the land in intensity or move away. And though many that live here are short of tongue and quite a few have turned to alcohol for comfort, we were constantly amazed by how willing everyone was to lend help or advice. Because of this, we met a ton of folks who we will never forget. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/1-15.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-15.jpg We chose a place called The Arctic Chalet to stay mainly because they raise sled dogs for tours and races in the winter. There were so many and we were shocked at how well they were trained. The only time we ever heard them bark was when they were being fed or walked. We are definitely interested in coming back during the winter. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-15.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/4-14.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/10-11.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/9-14.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/8-13.jpg We decided to stay for a couple of days as we were interested in getting a flight to Tuktoyaktuk. There is no road to this community on the Arctic Ocean except in winter when the rivers freeze over. But after going to the airport and seeing the price tag on such a flight ($800!!), we decided that Inuvik would be our final destination on this trip. We would have loved to see a community that is so isolated and marvel at how they are able to survive in the harshest of conditions, but another trip will be needed for that purpose. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-14.jpg So, after touring the town, taking a hike, cleaning the air filter (I'm pretty sure we captured half the Dempster in the filter), playing with the pups, sharing the chalet with a kind Japanese family and French girl, and resting we decided to head south for the first time in 3 weeks. It was a bit bittersweet, to be honest. And as we got back on the Dempster the amazing reality of going all the way back home set in. Wow. We have to go all the way back. Ouch. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_4059.jpg On our way to our first stop at Fort McPherson, we saw a moose on the road, which absolutely shocked us with its size. Those things are huge! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/13-6.jpg After our first ferry, we headed into town and filed up with gas after eating a quick lunch. As we were standing outside, preparing to leave, a couple of native boys came and became very interested in the bike. In fact, they were ready to trade their bikes for our Ural when a minivan pulled up and a familiar camera appeared. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_6823.jpg Out popped a woman named Rita Leistner, a Canadian photojournalist who is working on a project focusing on native communities of the north for the 2010 Olympics. After snapping a few pics of us, she happily invited us to tag along while she went to visit some of her new friends at a fish camp down by the next ferry. We followed her to an area of town we would have never seen otherwise and subsequently met two of the funniest, sharpest old women we've ever encountered. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/19-2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/21-1.jpg These 2 sisters were 94 and 96 and have never lived in the city. "Inuvik makes me dizzy because of the traffic", on told us. (Mind you, Inuvik only has a population of 3500). They were both friendly and needed no encouragement to tell us stories of their life in the north. These communities survive primarily off the land without modern amenities. It's a tough way to live and we were really moved by both of them. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/17-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/18-2.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/20-1.jpg Before we could leave they both walked out to the street to see Elga (which was no simple task). "Be careful! This thing is dangerous!" they both said, in a fashion only a grandmother could. And so we left the fish camp and Rita and took away another amazing experience to add to our adventure. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_6824.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_6827.jpg The rest of the day was painful. We had clear skies up until the second ferry but were greeted with freezing rain, thick fog, and muddy roads all the way to Eagle Plains. We were both soaked (my hands and feet especially - I need riding boots) and couldn't believe we would have to endure another full day on the Dempster before reaching Dawson. After persuading the staff to feed us (which was no easy task) we went to bed, sore and tired. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/16-3.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/23-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/24-1.jpg |
Entry 20
And now, back to a proper report: When we finally did get off the Dempster, we headed into Dawson for the night - covered in mud. The next morning, we woke up early and headed to Whitehorse. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-16.jpg We were once again warned to watch out for the wildlife, because a motorcyclist had been killed by hitting a buffalo just a few days earlier. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/4-15.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/5-14.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-15.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/7-16.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/17-4.jpg On the way, however, we started hearing a horrible, grinding noise coming from the front wheel. Seeing as the bike was still partially covered in mud (even though I had sprayed it off a bit), I just figured that a bit of dirt had become lodged in between the brake pads. When we got to Whitehorse, I was greeted with a horrible realization. What pads? http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/18-4.jpg (to clarify, this picture was taken a couple days later after sitting on the floor of the sidecar in the rain) So, I phoned up Heindl Engineering, who has turned out to be my most trusted source for parts on this trip. He had some new pads shipped quickly and after a couple of days we were back on the road again. I do need to point out that Whitehorse is home to one of the shadiest institutions I've seen in awhile. This hotel was down the street from where we were staying and I was offered some "services" while Kristen and I walked past one evening. I mean, my wife was right there! Stay away from this place: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/1-16.jpg We then drove through Watson Lake, Fort Nelson and Dawson Creek again with some pretty nasty weather along the way. Cold! http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/15-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-7.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/16-4.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/13-7.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/11-9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/10-12.jpg On the way from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson (which is the best stretch of that highway IMO) we did almost have an accident. We have a communications system (autocom - no longer in business apparently) and were listening to a podcast called Stuff You Should Know (which is really great for road trips, if you're interested) when all of a sudden the loudest, most shrill, hellish sound came screaming through our headphones. I literally saw white spots and almost wrecked the bike while trying to get off the road to unplug myself. I don't know what happened, but we both ripped the comm stuff out of our helmets right then and there. On the way to Dawson Creek, we met an extraordinary guy named Ed Gold. It has been a long time since we've been enraptured by any person. Ed is a Bristish documentary photographer who encapsulates the description "adventurer". Check out his stuff at www.edgold.co.uk. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/IMG_4212.jpg Anyway, after Dawson Creek, we made the decision to go back through Jasper and Banff as it seemed like the most direct (and scenic) route to get back to Montana as we wanted to see my aunt and uncle again. So, we headed into the mountains... |
Entry 21
First, I need to say that we have made it safely back to our home in San Antonio, TX. We really laid off of the reports during our final couple of weeks - it's hard work to keep up with these things! Anyway, we made our way into Jasper after getting our brake pad situation settled in Whitehorse. The weather was absolutely perfect as we rolled in and because it was so late in the season, there were very few people. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/4-16.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-17.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/21-2.jpg On the way into town, there was a sizable crowd on the side of the road - each with their cameras pointed toward a river on the left. So, being the good tourists we are, we hopped off the bike, and after getting our pictures taken by several people, we saw these guys nearly within touching distance. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/5-15.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-16.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/7-17.jpg We then headed through town to check out some small cabins we had noticed on our way north. It turns out that they were only $110 - which is extraordinarily cheap for Jasper (like I said before, it was there down season). Good for us. We pulled up to our wooden accommodations and saw this from our back porch: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/17-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/18-3.jpg In response, I did this with a beer in hand: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/19-3.jpg So, seeing as the weather was perfect and because the forecast looked clear, we decided to stay for a few nights. Besides, we had been hearing a horrible grinding sound coming from somewhere on the bike as we were riding and I wanted to check it out. After checking out a few things, I remembered hearing about a few people who had broken springs off their brake shoes. Bingo. I found this in my pusher hub: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/25-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/24-2.jpg How mine looked: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/22-2.jpg How it's supposed to look: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/23-2.jpg One of the springs had broken and had caused a considerable amount of damage inside the hub. I'm assuming it's because the wheel is made of aluminum and the spring is made of kryptonite. Either way, I took the spare and put it on my pusher and stole one of the springs from my hack to put in the pusher. It seemed reasonable to think that the pusher brake was a bit more important. I then rode into town, hoping to find some sort of replacement and noticed that the noise was still there. In fact, it seemed worse. I thankfully found a replacement - it wasn't perfect but it would make due until I could get a proper spring for the hack. Seeing as there weren't many bike shops or auto shops in town, we decided to take in the sights even though the bike sounded pretty awful. We rode up a gondola and after a bit of a hike, we were delighted to find some pretty fantastic views. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/16-5.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/12-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/15-6.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/13-8.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/11-10.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/10-13.jpg We then headed down and spent the afternoon doing some maintenance and relaxing... We woke up the next morning to learn that the weather had turned. Several of the passes that we needed to cross were enveloped in snow and it was raining in Jasper. Not only that, but now both of Kristen's heated gloves had ceased to work. Perfect. We headed onward. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/27-1.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/26-1.jpg Let me tell you - those passes were cold! And riding in the snow is pretty difficult, honestly. Okay, maybe not difficult but at least kind of annoying. My mask fogged the entire time and so seeing was a bit of a problem. Kristen was a complete trouper - I looked over at one point and saw that she was completely covered in white. I tapped her on the shoulder to see if she was okay and she gave me two, enthusiastic thumbs up! i love this woman.... Here's a quick video of us (yes, again hiding in a porta-potty from the weather) then heading into the snow. I know there are some of you that ride all winter long through tons of horrible weather, and I know that the snow hadn't stuck to the ground here, but I'm telling you it was cold! Especially for a couple of Texans: T2T - snow on Vimeo We made our way through the park with minimal pictures as it was pretty nasty weather the whole way through. We headed through the glacier parkway and into Banff, then west through Kootenay. We continued on until night fell and ended up in Cranbrook. It was a long day and we were definitely happy to fall into bed. |
FINAL ENTRY
We finally crossed back into the US and headed into Montana, back to my Aunt and Uncle's place in Bigfork. I immediately noticed how much cheaper gas had become and suddenly realized that we had spent a fortune and fuel. Wow, I still don't want to look at my credit card bill. While staying with family, I took the time to do some much needed maintenance and made some disturbing discoveries. At some point, it's hard to say when, my Ural lost the final drive dipstick. For those of you that don't know, the piece I speak of is vented and screws into the final drive. Because of that, I have concluded that I must have checked the level at some point, and then forgot to screw it back in. Either way, a solution was to be had (thanks to some that are smarter than me). http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-19.jpg a vent was made through the cork with a long screw. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tymatt43/a.jpg it fits! Unfortunately, that was not my only problem. I hadn't really noticed until I reached the town of big fork, but my braking on the rig had become very odd. As I was checking things out, I found that the brake rod from the the pedal to the rear wheel was missing. Not good. I don't have a picture but a cotter pin must have broke or just come loose and released the rod and assembly to the pavement. Again, something that probably could have been avoided had I known to look there. sigh... At this point, a decision had to be made. Would we throw in the towel or just continue on without a pusher brake (the sidecar still worked). Onward! we decided. We've come this far... So we headed into freezing Idaho. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/5-17.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/9-17.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/6-17.jpg We don't get this white stuff in San Antonio... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/7-18.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...tt43/10-14.jpg We eventually made into warmer temperatures as we crossed into Utah. It was a relief, to be honest. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/1-20.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/2-20.jpg Then, without warning, a breaking point occurred. We had been forced to take major highways for our entire time in Utah and as we became lodged in traffic, I threw in the towel. For days, a persistent, friction-type noise had been coming from the sidecar wheel. I had checked it out as best as I knew how, but couldn't seem to make any difference. This time, however, I exited the highway and stopped in a big parking lot to take one, final look. I got the sidecar jacked up and found that the wheel wasn't even turning freely anymore. As best as I can tell, a wheel bearing has gone bad or (more likely) I have done something that resulted in a wheel bearing going bad. Either way, I refuse to put my wife in danger (if the sidecar wheel locked up on the highway...yikes) so after much deliberation I called it quits. Mind you, it was not my proudest moment. At about that same time, I got a phone call from my dad. He and my mom were on a roadtrip to Yellowstone and just randomly were headed into Utah. I told him what was going on and they both got very excited. "We're coming to get you!" they exclaimed. I have to say that I am not proud that I was rescued by my parents, but it worked out. And plus, we got to spend some quality time with them. (that's what I keep telling myself...) We headed to some places that Kristen and I had wanted to go on our way back home while our beloved Ural rode close behind. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/13-9.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/3-20.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/5-18.jpg http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/8-17.jpg And so, our trip ends quite anticlimactically. I would have loved to have finished the last 1000 miles or so, but I will not intentionally put my wife in danger just for the sake of pride. I can say, however, that we did unload the bike 20 miles from my house and ride her home. It seemed only fair to our Ural. Kristen's reaction to arriving back home: http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...att43/14-9.jpg Our trip ended as thus: Miles Traveled: 9,378 Days Traveled: 52 Average Fuel Economy (based on random calculations throughout): 28 mpg Worst Problem with Ural: busted valve guide which resulted in the need for a new head Worst Gear Problem: busted Gerbing Gloves Best Gear Purchase: Gerbing Heated Jackets -or- tinted visors Lessons Learned: 1. pack less 2. need lighter camping gear 3. need lockable cases for gear on bike besides trunk 4. straps bought from WalMart are worthless 5. air filter loves to be clean and will throw a fit if dirty 6. riding boots that are not waterproof are worthless 7. my wife is hardcore 8. Rev'it Gear is worth the money 9. being prepared for everything is worth the hassle 10. experience = healthy bike more trips = more experience = happy matt Thanks for reading! |
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A very interesting read, sounds like you had a great trip and brilliant photos.
:scooter: |
Great trip and amazing pictures. I think i ran into you guys somewhere on Alaska Highway. If it was you, it would have been sometimes late september at Rancheria lodge about 100 miles from Teslin Lake.I was leaving as a Ural Just like yours with a girl and a guy pulled into the parking lot of the lodge and restaurant. (I was riding this if you remember)
I enjoyed your post very much and glad to see you made it back safe. Cheers, Chris |
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enjoyed looking through your site! |
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