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Screw the CV: Amsterdam to Vladivostok, Japan > Australia! And who knows where else!
MOTORCYCLE JOURNEY COMPILATION
----------------------------------------------------------------------- EPISODE 7 - Video series ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey everyone After a couple years of riding and working myself halfway around the world I finally decided to get more serious with my video footage. Never thought that the journey would go this far so my collection just kept growing beyond the original harddisks. Initially the clips were just meant to be something to look back on later in life and the occasional video. But after some of the stunning places that crossed my path and the great experiences; Wow, too good not to share. My writing has been fairly inconsistent and is not my forte so it seems, but with video I can literally show off the world! Making this video series has been a great process and something very hands on with something to show for in the end. Unfortunately for the longest time the footage shot with the point-and-shoot camera is not of the best quality. Due to my very limited means choices had to be made since most of the money goes into keeping the ride alive; No funds for fancy stuff. I chose a GoPro and very glad I did because that footage is neat! Join me on this ride around the world. What started as a small dream became a bigger dream and some say I'm living it. Though many of them probably don't know about the hobo life ha! No sponsors, work is what keeps this journey going. No big modern bike, just a trusty old '91 Honda Transalp that keeps on giving. It does not matter what you have, it's about doing it and then owning it. I think that might apply to everything in life. Anyway, no great big documentary but a slice of daily life on the road. It's a great big extraordinary world out there and most people on it are pretty damn great. And to experience it on a motorcycle, priceless. The series goes back and forth BETWEEN past and present episodes and hopefully one day they will meet. Past: 2014 and onward - Departure day in the Netherlands, Amsterdam Present: 2016 and onward - Finished Australia, return to Sydney Enjoy the :mchappy: |
The way East as planned before departure
----------------------------------------------------- https://farm1.staticflickr.com/311/1...49196c14_b.jpg And then you are in Japan. Hi I finally managed to hold hostage my thoughts and inspiration to get this written show on the road. The actual live show has so far been absolutely grand and I’ve been reluctant to write about it since looking through the pictures only confirmed that six awesome months had gone by in a heartbeat. All those mental states I can still recognize and feel from the photos and how out of touch I am with those states at the moment. A third person perspective of someone I used to be. Such is life and always will be; therefore memories (good or bad) of extraordinary acts and endeavors are worth their weightlessness in gold. And there are many such memories on this website and elsewhere on the internet. I have gathered a lot of information from those stories and forged a journey of my own. I am happy to be able to share my own experiences so that they may be of help to others. And of course there is one’s own pride and sense of accomplishment, that feeling of wanting to tell the world. “Cool story bro” is what we usually hear during the first weeks of returning home and then life goes on. Like nothing ever happened. Ha! But I am not done yet. At least I think I’m not. I was planning on going to North America but the Canadian working holiday visa was not as straightforward to obtain as I thought it would be. That idea was dead in the water before I even left on this journey. The alternative? Still waiting on confirmation and I don’t want to jump the gun: Australia, my second year visa has been granted! So what the hell was I doing in the first place? My plan was to ride from Amsterdam to Vladivostok through the Middle East on my ’91 Transalp. I will tell you all about it below (scroll scroll). I’ll write about my experiences and occasionally I’ll interject with current state of affairs. Like how I just cannot get enough of 7-Eleven rice triangles. I’ll create a topic on both the HUBB and ADV, seems to be a common thing. My main motivation? Do something extraordinary while I am in the physical prime of my life. This time is usually spent building a CV, well screw that then, hence the title. I’ve done my share of traveling and there is nothing better than riding a motorcycle. At one point I just knew for sure: travel on my own terms, speed, and time. Full control, it is all on me. Turns out the world is not THAT big of a place. It would be a waste not to have a go at it taking in to account today’s unlimited and potentially paralyzing choices. “**** it lets go” many said before me and hopefully more will say in the future. The world is only getting smaller. So what is next? Australia! >> Ok, Australia was huge. Took some time to ride and work around the country. Beautiful places, great moments, amazing people and a couple of calamities unfortunately. Still, got back on the road and fully experienced this great nation. So any other stunning islands to ride next? New Zealand! “So we beat on, boats against the current” |
1. In the beginning I headed towards the Alps
So I start out in Amsterdam after coming back from Australia in December. Soon I decide I really want to execute my plan of riding around the world and if I want to do it then I should do it soon (seasons). I set my departure date to somewhere between 15th and 25th of March. Preparations start a month beforehand and heat up two weeks before departure. Things get really serious during the last week and I decide to leave the 20th. I remember sitting one day in the living room of my friend’s house late afternoon. I had spent all day confirming and doing all my online purchases. I looked devastated, a thousand yard stare of mental depletion. Getting my Russian visa was the first small step of no return but after that massive online purchase spree I was definitely beyond the point of no return. The next day I was at ease, this is happening. On the final day of packing time was playing tricks on me. The less time I had, the more I still had to do. Three in the morning, again the thousand yard stare.
It's a nice sunny day for a ride to the other side of the world. http://i.imgur.com/a0Oolmi.jpg http://i.imgur.com/U7HV0Oo.jpg Next day late departure, I was going to go and that was that. Look at those shiny pristine paniers. http://i.imgur.com/ADqoAkO.jpg Said goodbye to friends and family and in the evening me and my friend, who joined me for a day, camped just over the border in Germany. My wish for the day granted: I shall not sleep in the Netherlands on my first day! And I’m off, sort of. First night, we carefully picked a spot. http://i.imgur.com/fJap2Oy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/IZXyKQ1.jpg From Germany I loop back to the Netherlands for some quick administrative work (I should not be here!) And then back to Germany and then I am on my way for real. Camping deep in the German forest. Impeccable camouflage. http://i.imgur.com/Ecom5Ju.jpg http://i.imgur.com/F5rWdsQ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ConZqwa.jpg I have once again a pleasant ride through the Eifel and visit Monschau. Just another morning in my quiet mountain town. http://i.imgur.com/9Zt31S3.jpg Beautiful place in the winter when covered in snow and bustling with Christmas market activity. http://i.imgur.com/tN3CyfT.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v0vlCyK.jpg After that to Belgium. The Ardennes covered in its usual gray eeriness. There is something about that place that I just cannot describe. I had the same feeling riding through it as I did in 2011 when I was on my way back home from Istanbul. Cannot believe I don't have a picture of the place. http://i.imgur.com/vfsTSIy.jpg Headlight busted, had to replace one for the first time. Activate PDF manual. O sure Windows, take your time. http://i.imgur.com/vc6rrTm.jpg Hello Luxembourg, thanks for the cheap fuel. http://i.imgur.com/0PclB05.jpg Get to France and ride through Nancy in direction of Strasbourg. Camp lakeside, a car drove past me as I made my way through the intricate forest paths to get to the lake unseen. Me still in my early stages of camping in the wild was of course convince the passengers would come and murder me during the night. http://i.imgur.com/R5Tlz0f.jpg "Character develops itself in the stream of life." Thanks Wolfgang, I needed to hear that. http://i.imgur.com/YYhqAk5.jpg What is up with that city anyway? Someone should tell the Germans about this place because it kind of looks like it is theirs. Just saying. http://i.imgur.com/NfZps5A.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HBQGH10.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mglGigX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uHrQkdw.jpg Could you ladies please take a picture of this aspiring adventurer? Merci! http://i.imgur.com/xq07veo.jpg Back in Deutschland! http://i.imgur.com/463HbrZ.jpg As I ride further south the landscape goes up and the temperature goes town; I am getting close to the base of the Alps. Snowfall! Such jubilant panic and excitement as I went up the mountain. http://i.imgur.com/EMIK9HO.jpg Adventure is here! http://i.imgur.com/NJd73Jz.jpg Once past the top the snow stopped. At a big Luis.de shop I buy a small air compressor pump (oh how of great use you are going to be!). The next day I’m supposed to meet family in Switzerland so outside the shop I decide to go on a time trial to try and make it there in the evening. It was already 17:30 and I knew this was a bad idea, especially due to the fact it already had snowed before. Something I repeated even louder when it starting raining whilst on the highway. And then it definitely became a bad idea when that rain turned in to serious snowfall. Sensory overload as the highway goes white and I make sure not to squeeze any levers or push any peddles. Keeping the bike in a straight line I can still feel the rear slightly swerve, meanwhile my visor gets covered in snow and I hardly can make out the other traffic anymore in the dark. With great care I steer the bike in the direction of the emergency lane where I finally come to a standstill. That was crazy. My luck! Right next to an exit and I turtle walk my way down the ramp. Here I had to turn left and go down a bendy steep slope. Test walked it before I gave it a try with the bike. http://i.imgur.com/nQb5J6S.jpg Snowed in in the middle of nowhere, and my range severely limited, I have no choice but to check in to an inn. 35 Euros, argh, such great expenditures for accommodation was not part of the plan so early on. Come and rest your weary head young traveler. http://i.imgur.com/q1ikoR1.jpg Few days in to the journey and the elements have already bested me. Have I been slain so soon? Should I turn around back home? (pretend I’m not in Japan for dramatic effect) |
Ok. Was hoping to put the first pics here but I've been looking at Mt. Fuji through the window for the last 4 hours and it is time to ride. These Japanese days were already short and are getting even shorter! There will be more tonight.
Hai! |
Mr Mota, thanks for taking us along and inspiring travel and adventure in me.
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Have safe trip and enjoy your freedom! Will be following your adventure.
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Take to the sea, take to the sky!
http://i.imgur.com/UfeEc7n.jpg
Good things come to those who wait. Finally got the bike on a boat to Australia and it officially left the port of Yokohama. Next destination: Brisbane. Booked my flight an hour ago so next week I'll be leaving this fine country of the rising sun and increasingly colder nights. Thank you Robin, Brendan, Yuki for consecutively putting me in touch with each other. For the time being I walk on legs among the mortals again. Luckily my host lets me borrow his :scooter: for the time being. He also helped me thoroughly clean the bike. A necessity if you want to get through the Australian quarantine inspection. Two costs I am trying to avoid: quarantine cleaning and storage costs. See the trick in Australia is to earn Australian wages but not to pay them. My host Paco was the lifeblood of this operation: http://i.imgur.com/XSHlwhd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/vCfR3ox.jpg Cleaning until the sun goes down, early though around 17:30: http://i.imgur.com/xhqIrjX.jpg And then it got really late. Also still had to change the rear tire: http://i.imgur.com/A3HvJJx.jpg Next day I drop off the bike at Yokohama port before noon. By the way a 60km ride from north east of Tokyo but still 2 hours, even when cutting corners. That's urban Japan for ya. Anyway, I stand tough but inside I realize that we will soon be separated. Away from each other for that long, after 8 months? A period of amazing heights and some thunderous lows. Like one of those music video's where shots of a couple running happily along the beach interchange with shots of them yelling and slamming doors. Think Meatloaf and the early 90's. An affair of a deep lust for life between man and machine. http://i.imgur.com/oy39Uas.jpg And then I have to take the bus like a normal person: http://i.imgur.com/jTjNG8B.jpg Sugoi! |
2. Into the Alps!
Of course I did not turn back as one may have guessed.
So my ludicrous dash for Sursee failed, but all good. It’s not like I am short on time. The next morning I visit a local mechanic and ask him about changing to winter tires. He said I’ll be fine during the day since the snow melts and regardless of tire type snow will always get you in trouble anyway. Unless you got spikes of course. I got to hear my impeccable German skills in action and managed to suppress my cringing. Had some good laughs at the expense of BMW too: “BMW? DIE SIND SHEISSE!” the mechanic exclaimed with a face of disgust. Unsurprising since the good man had a big Japanese flag hanging high and mighty in his workshop. He explained how he only had seen one Honda Transalp engine go bust under 100.000km. Mechanic was camera shy though and ran away: http://i.imgur.com/LCA4LmH.jpg So standing wide and firm on the ground with our arms crossed and our backs slightly arched backwards we looked down on the bike and nodded approvingly in silence. This bike shall not fail me. Onward to Sursee but first I made a little detour to a small city named Kloten. The Dutch will understand. http://i.imgur.com/mdrwC7s.jpg Once in Sursee I met with family who I had not seen for over a decade. Stayed with them a few days and went for a day ride to Luzern. http://i.imgur.com/LZjGue4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zEpmba4.jpg A beautiful Swiss city cut in half by a river that ends in a lake. A couple of impressive wooden bridges hundreds of years old stretched from one side of the river to the other. Looking up at the ceiling you can see triangular panels with restored biblical paintings on them. http://i.imgur.com/Btxzfmu.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dBqb47N.jpg This is not a pose: http://i.imgur.com/G5YThfz.jpg Alp is always posing: http://i.imgur.com/uYMHX3i.jpg After another couple of days with family I continue on through the Alps. An Alp in the Alps. It never gets old. Though this time there is snow and now the Transalp logo has become reality. The little things I tell you. I ride in direction of Chur and am just blown away by the snowy mountains. http://i.imgur.com/Aeu91oX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mmko1Br.jpg I have never been skiing so all of this is new to me and I am having a blast. I head out in direction of the Fluela pass disregarding the signs saying it is closed. I ignore many of these signs and higher up I end up at a snowy dead end. http://i.imgur.com/lxZ3HQa.jpg http://i.imgur.com/96Bco9S.jpg This is the end: http://i.imgur.com/NiMUGNn.jpg Brilliant sight! Though no surprise. This is due the unfortunate timing of my trip since most passes open in May but the snow makes up for it and there are still alternative winding roads through mountain tops surrounded by meters of snow. This was the case when I had to detour back through the Julier pass. Fantastic. Recently I saw the GoPro footage on a quality lcd and the blue, grey, white contrast is simply stunning. I spent the nights camping in the snow and it did get pretty damn cold during the night. Usually no lower than -5. I had to sleep with leggings, socks, shirt and hoody on and still it was not comfortable. Lies on the label of my sleeping bag but I knew what I was buying when I got it. Any bigger and it would not have fit in the top case packing setup. What could possibly go wrong: http://i.imgur.com/VzcqvBv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/s6JJvkf.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OFnvaFq.jpg Speaking of which. I had the tent and sleeping bag next to each other in there and on top I would put the laptop which was tucked away in a memory-foam zip case. This would proof to be a durable solution in order to keep my laptop in working shape during later parts of the journey. Pro tip: leave a peace of foam/cloth between the keyboard and screen when you close it. I did not and now there are friction wear lines on the screen. Wooooohooooooosshhhhwoooooooosshhhhhhhhwoooooossso oooooo: http://i.imgur.com/SlUkXBO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6LmfFhe.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6ANrudl.jpg On my way to and through Italy I encounter some very nice roads but slowly the snow is disappearing. By the time I get to Trento the snow is gone. http://i.imgur.com/SbCNZcO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pZ6xxdF.jpg I camp in the mountains just outside of the city and the next day I head in direction of Venice. http://i.imgur.com/82pcw1J.jpg Wanna get high: http://i.imgur.com/p5gwrp3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/oRN8L6M.jpg An hour after I leave Trento the Alps are becoming smaller in my rearview mirrors and by the time I get to the Veneto province the peaks have been reduced to a silhouette on the horizon. I wave goodbye but not farewell. Turns out the iPhone overheats easily and I realize how useless it is going to be as navigation once I get to the hot countries: http://i.imgur.com/ZboUcuz.jpg On the main road leaving Trento I run out of petrol. Them Italians and their bloody automated cash payment only petrol stations! I am still very much in card mode. Walk into the petrol station bar and explain my cashless situation. A senior man says come with me and we leave after he chugs his second drink since I got inside. We get into his car and he drives me to the next town where I can use an ATM and afterwards he drives me back to the petrol station. He had a bit of trouble staying in his lane but all good. Back at the station I buy us drinks and afterwards I am on my way again. On my way that is into the urban hell that is Veneto province. Hours on end of doing 50, 60, 50, 70, 50, 60, 50, red lights and serious traffic. This went on almost all the way to Venice. Little did I know this was the worst stint of my whole journey so things only got better after that mentally exhausting experience. I cross the beautiful bridge into Venice and end up on Piazzale Roma. The place is bustling with pedestrians, cars and busses. http://i.imgur.com/16KItmW.jpg I stop on the far end by the water and the moment I get off the bike to take a picture I get yelled at from all directions. I run into one of the small streets to take a few pictures and run back to the bike in order to avoid getting fined and towed away. No time to ask someone to take a picture of me: http://i.imgur.com/Jkk4m8l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jtumMUP.jpg Fill up on food, drink and petrol and get ready for the ride to Croatia. Also slip in to something more comfortable and take off all my thermal clothes: http://i.imgur.com/Lsjw8pn.jpg No time to stick around now. I was on my way to meet a friend in Croatia and the day was running out of light. I geared up for a long late noon stint. |
Well. Busy times in Australia working before I head out again. Writing not coming along as I would like to. That is really something that has to be done while riding. I did start making short clips from my abundant gopro footage collection and thought I should share it here. Felt I had to do something since all footage was just doing nothing on the hdd. I sometimes cannot believe that some of it is already almost a year ago. Crazy. Never forget to really savor the moment. I'll do my best even more in the future. This beautiful world goes by so fast.
The Swiss Alps Iraq Turkey Georgia Iran Japan |
information
Hi Mr. Mota
Very nice trip and thanks for the entertainment :scooter: We are planning quite the same route, so it would be nice if you can share some informations about the transport :thumbup1: 1. ferry from Vanino to Japan (procedures, time and costs) 2. transport from Japan to Brisbane (procedures, time and costs) I guess there are way more people interested in this information, so thanks for the effort :D Greets from Switzerland TuA </title> <meta name="description" content="" ></meta> <meta name="keywords" content="" ></meta> <base href="http://miles-to-ride.com/formvista/site_local/themes/miles-to-ride/"></base> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8 |
Japan to Australia - Shipping bike
So someone asked me on facebook about the process and costs for shipping the bike from Yokohama in Japan to Brisbane in Australia. I'm posting my response below since other people might find it useful too:
SHIPPING BIKE FROM YOKOHAMA TO BRISBANE I got the exact numbers on receipts and papers stacked away somewhere. Or maybe I don't anymore. I can give you close estimates though. As for company names I also have to dig that up. Transport was roll on roll off, no crate. Prices are in USD. I used agent on Japanese side. I did not use an agent on Australian side. Up to you. I was very lucky though to have someone help me out on Australian side. Shipping time is 3 weeks. JAPAN Shipping from Yokohama base cost (Armacup): $700 +10% Shipping agent fee (Hamanas): $130 Custom fees: $50 Radio activity check and other little things: $20 When using agent chase them up if they are taking too long to reply. They can forget you. Don't be an ass though, you know what I mean. AUSTRALIA Customs: $40/80 Port fee: $80 *1 Induction fee: $90 *2 Inspection: $80 If you do not use an agent in Oz there is going to be a lot of back and forth over a few days. You can't take care of it in one day. Distances are great when you don't have your own transport. And of course don't forget carnet. Like I said, numbers may differ but I remember that all in all it cost me around $1200 TOTAL. Cheers. *1: This is nuts but very important. You are not allowed to ride the bike out of the port (Queensland regulations). It has to go on a trailer. Truck drivers are very busy at the port so it is worth it to have someone ready to help you with that. Person driving car with trailer has to do safety induction. Also, customs (at airport) and port are close on the map but the bridge is far away, 20km if I remember correctly. You have to go to customs after you went to the port first, and then back to the port. Again someone to help is great otherwise Taxi's, very expensive in Oz. You can only ride once the bike is insured ($), registered ($) and out of the port. *2: Inspection of cleanliness. Make sure the bike is spick-and-span. Key areas are places that catch mud from the wheels. You cannot be present during inspection. You do not want to pay Oz wages for cleaning. |
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So it has been a while again. Left Sydney in April and spent two months riding to the west coast pretty much sticking to the coast after Adelaide. The mountains and rainforest roads in NSW and VIC were fantastic but once on the westside of Eyre peninsula and onward I was really taken in by the coastline. More importantly the remoteness and that feeling of actually being alone. Got to Perth and landed a job in the middle most western part of WA on the Great Central road for a couple of months. Only 300km from Eyers rock. Funny what Australia does to distances. Not that they mattered much to me anymore but people complaining about the boring 1000km Nullarbor seemed alien to me. Work is great and it is not the first time that I am pleasantly slaving away in the region. After all the riding remote work fits me better than ever. Beautiful vast spaces and when you drive home there is barely anyone on the dirt road as you move forward at German Autobahn speeds. Got a few more weeks left and then I head to Geraldton and continue my journey north hugging the coast all the way to Darwin. Once there I want to cross the country through the middle past Alice Springs and the Simpson desert. Had time to sit down and write again and I hope to keep it going for a while. See if can integrate it with my day when I am riding again. Anyway. Life has been good out here in Western Australia. |
3. Ride into ex-Yugoslavia
Slovenia we meet again and do I have sad news for you yet once more. I’ll be passing through for just a few hours because I am once again in a hurry. I nowadays have a term for when I pass through a country in one day: Sloveniad. As in “I Sloveniad that country in a matter of hours mate”. I did the same in 2011 coming back from Istanbul. My loss really. Only heard good things about the Slovenian Alps and Ljubljana, so I vouched to do the country right one day. Instead I was on my way to Croatia and the sun went down soon after I arrived in the country.
I decided not to buy a vignette since I was only going to ride less than 10km on the highway. After only 5km the highway was blocked off and traffic was diverted though the petrol station where it was crawling with police. Shit. Should I stop by the shop real quick and wait this one out? Nah, too suspicious. Had luck on my side and the police women waved me through with a smile and I was back on the road within a minute. Fantastic. I stopped for a long smoke and watched the sun go down as I enjoyed the beautiful countryside in absolute silence. I knew I was missing out on something just breezing through like this. Next time. The border crossing was easy. Apparently the procedure had changed since a year and I was very pleased with that. The country had become part of the European Union in 2013 and I had completely forgotten about it. In case you have not noticed you are in Croatia. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/290/1...01da98cf_b.jpg The final stretch to Rijeka was a formality and once there I was welcomed by my friend Croatian man Jelle and his girlfriend. [url=https://flic.kr/p/w3KHFb]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/357/1...ace783fd_b.jpg City looking all right in the sunshine. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3731/...eb1543ef_b.jpg To take this picture at the port… https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/...7684b846_b.jpg …I passed by this sign. Not knowing it was the equivalent of crossing the border. Guard who came fast walking towards me did not look very happy. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/551/1...a959a954_b.jpg View of the city taken from the west. We picked up a helmet for Jelle and had a couple of ice cold homemade Limoncello’s at his friends’ house. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3788/...893dcf24_b.jpg I stayed at his place for almost a week. He showed me around the city and we went on a daytrip to Krk. A beautiful island peninsula with nice small fisherman villages. I walked through the narrowest street in the world though I highly doubt their audacious claims. There is probably some city or town in Asia which takes the cake. Jelle is the only person I know who like me takes straight pictures. An exceptional piece of common ground we both possess and a rare skill it would seem. About the only photography skill though. Nice narrow streets in one of the sleepy towns of Krk. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/345/2...16c55cb1_b.jpg Narrowest in the world you reckon? https://farm1.staticflickr.com/489/2...422a209b_b.jpg From Krk we took a short ferry trip to the island of Cres. There is where things got really nice including the riding. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/455/2...99e63cfd_b.jpg Beer O’clock. Not a Tomislav but still all right. See how straight that horizon is? https://farm1.staticflickr.com/290/2...707ef57f_b.jpg Picturesque little fishing village on Cres. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/355/2...9f3ae1ef_b.jpg Take the ferry from the northern tip of the island back to the mainland. Late sunset coastal ride back to Rijeka. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/459/2...28f74508_b.jpg The port of Rijeka never sleeps. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/412/2...16f4ae12_b.jpg On a side note little did we know back then that Jelle was eight months short of becoming a father. And now he is. First man down in my circle of friends, all the best mate. Not me though. Not for a long time. Too many great things to do in this brilliant world. No wife, kids, or house for that matter. Makes for a malleable future and staying true to yourself is a lot easier like that. But I digress. In eight months you’ll be in for quite a surprise my friend. Good luck! At least the kid will have an interesting dad. I decide to go see the Plitvitce waterfalls which is a 200km detour but no problem when you are on a motorcycle. It is what cyclists envy most about us riders. On the other hand I envy them for being able to take their bikes across the border just like that. No paperwork. On my way out of the city over the mountains I stumbled upon interesting scenery. The forests just looked devastated with many trees being snapped in half and even more were missing their tops. Probably due to the weight of snow and ice during winter but I’ve never seen anything like it before. Of course I did not take a picture. Another interesting sight were the many abandoned houses alongside the road. History clearly left its mark in the region. Got some nice twisty road action when I arrived in the Plitvice area and I spent the night at a camping. There I spent the evening drinking and talking with a Dutch senior couple who occasionally take their campervan to places in Europe. Makes me feel good when I see people like that still roaming free and not withering away in a retirement home. Wish them the best. Old bridge in the countryside. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/389/2...4f10204f_b.jpg Abandoned house… https://farm1.staticflickr.com/539/1...1ab40125_b.jpg …after abandoned house. After the war many people did not return to their houses and the younger generations leave the villages for the cities. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/320/2...218f5f95_b.jpg The next day I unpacked my bike and went to see the waterfalls. What I figured would be a casual stroll of maybe two hours turned into an activity of half a day. The area is huge with waterfall after waterfall, it never ends. I mentioned girlfriend earlier; Take her there. Chicks love waterfalls. Beautiful place and worth ones time. Watch out for your sunnies though and do not lose them in one of the waterfalls like I did. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/438/2...4786a116_b.jpg Here is a waterfall. And look over there... https://farm1.staticflickr.com/556/2...6be29b55_b.jpg ...another one! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/268/2...cdb5789c_b.jpg One is tempted to go in but the water is ice cold. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/283/2...8c0f01b2_b.jpg Tagged along with a couple of young Germans who were flipping out in line behind me because their student cards were not accepted for a discount. Date had expired and they had not received their new cards yet. I got a discount with my dateless one and I graduated years ago. See how long I can keep that perk going in this life. Germans can get really heated when they deem a procedure incorrect or illogical. We all do but especially they are good at it. I once saw a German backpacker drive a Chinese tour guide girl mad. She called it quits and left us all behind. As the van drove off she hung from the window and shouted obscenities in Chinese to the tour group. But again I digress. In the afternoon I made my way in direction of Zagreb. Around halfway I ride through the city of Karlovac where I encounter a site of old war machines. These were weapons used during the war between the Serbs and de Croats. Shortly after I got there a local man arrived on a bike and gave me a tour around the place and explained information boards to me. He spoke barely passable English but he was able to convey information and a certain sentiment regarding the history of the city. Heavy fighting had gone on there as it was part of the front line. This would not be the last reminder of the war on my path since I would also be passing through Vukovar at some point. The first of many tank encounters on my way to Vladivostok. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/404/1...20a9bf89_b.jpg Don’t worry, I’ve got this. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/401/2...d85b799c_b.jpg I arrive in Zagreb during dusk and find a hostel to sleep. There I spend a few days sightseeing and socializing. In the evenings I go to the subterranean supermarket at the station and every time I am amazed at the ridiculous quantities of alcohol being purchased. Drinking is no joke over there so I did my part. The weather was not that great during my time there but the city was nice and well kept. Pretty small for a capital city. Too my surprise the city center was not that big. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/273/2...9ac4f602_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/297/2...56974f7a_b.jpg On my third day I had a bit of what I latter dubbed as the Zagreb blues. No will to take pictures, feeling a bit aimless. It was all already going so fast and I had a nagging feeling that I might be doing it wrong. Why Vladivostok? It all of a sudden felt like such an arbitrary destination. Why not take on the European continent at large and roam around for a year staying wherever I please. Hell I could even visit parts of the Middle East before I loop back into Eastern Europe. These thoughts would linger for a bit longer but the short term remedy was simply to ride on. Some days are simply just one of those days. And besides that, I had bigger plans! Bigger fish to fry! Caught on the other side of the world. |
4. Ride into ex-Yugoslavia - Part 2
I leave Zagreb and continue riding east in direction of the Hungarian city of Pécs and cross the border in the southwest part of the country. Forty kilometers East of that city in the small town of Mohacs I met up with two friends from university and thereby fulfilling a promise on the Danube.
We meet again. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5643/...e16847b0_b.jpg Zoltan and Edina are a young couple from Hungary who studied for half a year in the Netherlands at my university. They and their family were the prime example of Hungarian hospitality. The father of Edina, the mayor of “Girl Kiss”, even gave me a tour of his vineyard cellar where I tasted some of his best wines. His wife was very surprised since he had not shared the good stuff for over a year. Truly a great honor! I was also reintroduced to the stiff drink Pálenka. That will put some hair on the inside of your throat. All this fine drinking was made manageable by eating a lot of delicious homemade sausages. The Hungarians know how to enjoy life in the countryside. Winemaking is a matter of great pride and reputation in the region. I was very fortunate to get a taste. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/626/1...8887989c_b.jpg Had a little tour of Pécs and after a few days I was off again back to Croatia riding east in direction of Serbia. Though not before I was given a few homemade sausages and a bottle of homebrew Pálenka. They say the good stuff slides down your throat and does not burn your mouth. I am still very grateful for everyone’s warm hospitality. Oh, I tried to fish in the Danube, which flows right outside of Zoltans parents house, and failed miserably. The colorful center of student city Pécs. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/622/2...8f14c4c6_b.jpg A horse! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/774/2...4331e255_b.jpg Before getting to the Croatian border with Serbia there were more scars of the war to be found in Vukovar. Soon after entering the city bullet hole riddled buildings became a common sight. This continues throughout the city until one arrives at the destroyed water tower. This infamous landmark remains as a reminder of the people’s hardship and brave resistance during the war. The tower was shelled for months by the Serbs and on multiple occasions people, who perished during their attempts, reinstalled the Croatian flag on top of the tower. Twice. A symbol of Croatian defiance and their unwillingness to succumb to their opponent. An impressive sight indeed. Bullet holes all over the building façade. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/288/2...8e8dda71_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/404/2...e9b2f254_b.jpg The old water tower. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/406/1...5a95e705_b.jpg Later that day I entered Serbia without any issues and made my way to Belgrade. There I met with someone from couch surfing who turned out to be an excellent host and a good friend. Spent a handful of days checking out the city and enjoying the nightlife with the guidance of Vladan. In Belgrade the younger people meet each other in the city center or get together at a friends house. Nobody sits home alone at night and friends are always calling each other to see if they are doing anything. Republic Square is one of the main meeting points in the city. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5783/...b7b3b471_b.jpg Trolley busses are the best busses. Especially in Belgrade. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5799/...40e56153_b.jpg In this picturesque street my host offers me a good hangover breakfast. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5715/...01ed5670_b.jpg To me Belgrade felt like a real capital city with the many statues and its dirty old building facades that swallow you whole as you enter. It was a big city too. It is a nice walk through the city center to the fort through the big park. There on the grass like hobo I slept off a bit of my hangover after a rough night. The fort offers a vast and beautiful riverside view of the city and inside there are many war machines on display like tanks and artillery units. The Danube river runs through the city. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/624/2...eee367c0_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/662/1...2251347b_b.jpg Inside the fort a few of the many military units on display. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/712/2...06bc6065_b.jpg In the city center a couple of partly collapsed buildings laid bare another historical scar. The effects of the NATO bombings in the late nineties are still on display and it does not look like the city is going to demolish those structures any time soon. On the last day I still had some time to kill, fired up the navigation app and at "sights" the Tesla museum popped up. Of course I had go and have a look. A fine young woman demonstrated the wonders of Nicola’s electrical world and explained how Edison was a dick. To much displeasure of some present ‘Muricans. There are a couple of buildings like this in the city center. Stark reminders of the past and another surface scar of the region. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5667/...2996c8e3_b.jpg One of the government buildings. At one place I was summoned to move away from the parking lot after I took a picture of what turned out to be the presidential building. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/778/2...598cdb40_b.jpg One late afternoon while waiting for a friend I wandered into an orthodox church so I could write in my journal while I waited. Inside mass had just commenced and I soon was overwhelmed by the intensity of the religious display. There were no seats and people were standing up. The priest read sternly from a book and I slowly began to feel out of place. Things got real when the priest started walking around with an incense bowl on a chain while walking in the direction of the people standing and waving it in front of them. They got out of the way and soon enough the stern eyes of the priest were fixed on mine as he made his way towards me. Now I really felt like I did not belong there as he waved the incense in front of me and murmured a few words as he stared directly into my eyes. He moved on. What a dark and intense atmosphere. I had never experienced anything like it. Brilliant. Interior of a big Orthodox church. The one where I witnessed the ceremony was much smaller and darker. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/591/2...8a19c7c5_b.jpg Speaking of religious buildings. Made a quick visit to the allegedly biggest orthodox cathedral in the world. It was massive indeed but on the inside things seemed a little unfinished. Apparently there is no money to finish it fast. It is impressive but it still looks very new on the outside. Reminded me to a certain extend of the new Skopje city center in Macedonia which looks and feels like a Hellenic Disneyland. Maybe the city should do an exchange with Barcelona as they probably would learn a thing or two about milking an unfinished cathedral for eternity. Though other than that the city is very real. Of all the capitals in the region Belgrade felt the most authentic. It must have been quite a place to visit during the glory days. The cathedral of saint Sava with in front of it a proud statue of George Petrovich the founder of modern Serbia. Many Ottoman soldiers were slain at the hand of that massive sword. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/611/2...71e90c9a_b.jpg A couple of days later I was on my out of Belgrade heading towards the mountains north of the city. My generous host had given me a bottle of Serbian Rakia as a parting gift. Soon enough I was greeted by an impressive sea of broken and snapped tree tops. This was the ski season area of the country and harshest part of winter had just ended. I camped out in the front yard of a hotel which had a ski slope on both sides of the building. The man who owned the place was a past Olympic skier for the Soviet Union during the seventies. The old restaurant was decorated with photographs of a glorious past long gone. He owns both the slopes around the hotel but the last couple of winters had not been that great so earnings were meager. We spoke and we drank. A conservative man I soon figured so I had to pick my words wisely as I produced them in Pidgin English. Moments like these put a man at ease at the end of the day. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/587/2...fc90d502_b.jpg Posing Alp. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5800/...5c438f1c_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/715/2...08ebc0d8_b.jpg Want to go for a ride? https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5642/...184351b5_b.jpg It was a good day. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/615/2...69f9d59f_b.jpg The next day I had some of the best riding in Serbia over winding old roads. The nature was beautiful at times and I wish I could have seen some of those areas in its luscious green spring glory. As I get closer to the border I am thinking about the second promise I fulfilled. This time the one I made to myself back in 2011. Then on my way back from Istanbul I had a small crash in Albania and due to the time it took to repair the bike I had to skip Serbia. I vouched to have a go at the country the next time I had a chance. I did it and it was well worth it. At the border with Kosovo I get an exit stamp and I make my way through no-man’s land to the Kosovarian border post over a nice winding road with snow covered verges. Once there I ran into an obstacle. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5746/...4e54d29a_b.jpg |
5. Through Greece to Turkey
Coming from Serbia into Kosovo I get hung-up at the border. To get into the country I need to buy compulsory insurance and en-route through Europe I had been comfortably paying with card. So no cash in my pockets. The creditcard machine was broken so my only option was to turn back. Sucks but that is how it is and I did not mind riding that awesome stint of road again. The price I paid for not being on my game. From there on I understood that the comfort of Europe was slowly coming to an end and I needed to look ahead more. I had been to Kosovo on a previous trip so no love loss there. And what do you know, the detour through Montenegro turned out to be amazing.
We meet again. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5745/...befbf60a_b.jpg I have got a feeling that this ride is going to be a good ride. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/761/2...539022fc_b.jpg Alps, is that you? https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5728/...2321c020_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/605/2...3003a5a8_b.jpg I rode into Montenegro through a mountainous area in the east where I had not been before. It was still covered in snow which gave me little Alpine flashbacks. The aim was to ride over an obscure road to a small border crossing with the northeastern part of Albania. The last bit was not even indicated clearly on the map. After another delicious Hungarian sausage lunch (that is such a great start to a sentence is it not) I made my way to the border in the late afternoon. I had been told before that the road would not be that good once in Albania. How bad could it be right? The border post was the smallest I had ever seen. The guard awoke from a light slumber and greeted me at the gate. My passport got stamped and I signed a paper logbook. He manually hoisted the bar and let me into the country. Now from what I understood the road would be good for a long time and then go bad but that was the opposite of what other people had told me. I probably had misunderstood and damn right I did. Does anybody know where the Albanian border is? https://farm1.staticflickr.com/718/2...6d569d72_b.jpg There it is! https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5716/...e1f50ab9_b.jpg Less than a few kilometers into Albania the road becomes gravel and rock. I find myself in a mountainous area with wooden bridges and a small river. Damn it was all so beautiful and with the off-road track it became all the better! I slowly found myself moving into one of those ecstatic delirious states which would happen many more times throughout my journey. I had aimed for something nice but this was beyond my expectations. The road was narrow, rocky, and winding close to the slope. I had never had such a continuously serious off-road experience like this before. This was it, this is why I was doing what I do. That feeling of utter joy and abandonment to your surroundings where you feel like the only person in the world and that it is all and only for you to experience. I was a happy man. I set up camp by the flowing river next to small waterfall. This was my bedroom, here I will lay asleep peacefully under the stars as the water flows behind me. As I lie next to the fire under the clear night sky I finish the last of my Balkan spirits and am truly at peace. Every now and then a truck or car passes by on the tough road and honks. Never have I set up camp so close to the road before but I did not worry. I was in a place where there was only the best of man. You know something good is up when you stumble on a bridge like that. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/637/2...96bcf788_b.jpg Bye tarmac, won’t miss ya. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/715/2...6b2a8b77_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/629/2...5a5a6bfa_b.jpg I was not planning on this but things just keep getting better! https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5684/...4d9a168e_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/642/2...0869e941_b.jpg And better! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/696/2...c9d7b99d_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/677/2...d5eca423_b.jpg Fire it up. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/606/2...37d92a0c_b.jpg The next day I woke up under an overcast sky while a light drizzle came down on my tent. Such a shame but so be it. I head out and the road became pretty serious. More streams of water began to form as I rode up and down the slopes. After every corner a new mountain silhouette doomed up on the horizon. Beautiful. Soon enough I put on my rain suit as it was getting too wet. I had to focus on the riding since the road was wet and tires were not off-road. Sharp narrow turns going up or down with a steep wall on one side and a steep slope on the other. I rode close to the edge since I did not want to hit the big rocks with the pannier on the sloped wall. At one point I did on a narrow and slippery bit and the bike first pulled to the inside and then it veered to the right close to the edge and as I put my foot down I pull the bike to the left. Standstill. Ha, this is serious business. Casual danger hides in these pleasures. Something I was well aware off, but this was a good reminder nonetheless. The pannier was damaged and I had to take it off. One of the attachments was bent and I straightened it out with a rock. Those panniers and racks, if only they knew what lay ahead of them. Did not matter, I was having a great time. Camera was getting too wet though. Made a few screenshots from the GoPro footage to do the area justice. Around the bend the real good stuff begins. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5667/...87ba834d_b.jpg Occasionally I passed through small mountain villages while crossing the same river time after time. Stopped at a small local store for water and my gloves were absolutely drenched. The man gave me two small plastic bags to tie around my gloves. I got asked some questions by a local about my bike and there was something slightly irksome about the way the person asked them. I had noticed since Serbia that there were certain assumptions some people made about my person because of what I was doing. They would look at the bike fully loaded and the GoPro on my helmet and they assumed that I was rich. Once or twice it felt almost accusatory. Now I am well off compared to most of the world but I am not compared to where I come from. Nothing new since I had noticed this phenomenon before during my travels. Though now it was different. This machine is all I have and it is almost twenty-five years old. I have some money in the bank for this trip and recording is a must on a journey like this. Though that is all I have and I am going for broke. There is no house or anything to go back to when I am “done”. What then? I will have to figure it out. Though that is the part that people do not see. All they see is a vehicle and some expensive looking gear. He must be rich to be able to afford this. You must have money if you are not working to make money. Not understanding that this is it. That this is all in. It is an investment into an idea, a notion of life. You will not be able to buy anything for it but it is yours to keep forever. Why else dive into a pool of indefinite financial insecurity? My luxury is the ability to make that decision. To be able to self inflict this uncertainty. That is my privilege. I am grateful to have been randomly born in a part of the world where I can “easily” make that decision. But that is about as far as the benefit goes. Because being able to deal with that uncertainty is half the work. And most people cannot handle it otherwise everybody would be pursuing their most heartfelt desires. So yeah I am rich, but not because of the items you see. I get it though. This is one of the poorest regions in Europe. And most people do not fully understand the concept of leisure riding. Heck in many countries the idea is completely alien. No such thing. So there is that. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/711/2...d45ee34a_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5732/...3a93b919_b.jpg Oh yeah! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/730/2...23646723_b.jpg After about forty kilometers from Montenegro the road widened and there was a lot of construction work going on for the next ten kilometers. As I rode over the winding road up the mountain I left the valley behind me and stumbled on pristine tarmac on the other side. This was progress in motion. These mountain communities were being connected with the rest of the country. It was cool to see the process for once of how these awesome winding mountain roads come to be. Soon these people would only be a few hours away from Tirana but in the process their isolated mountain life will come to an end. The young go, the old die, and then some of the young come back with a brand new Mercedes. I continue west down the mountain on fresh tarmac which looks like a flowing river because of the rain and absent drainage system. Once at the main road I head south and leave behind this great riding experience in the north of Albania. The dirt roads are slowly disappearing and the world is only getting smaller. How good is that. Across the river and now back up on the other side! Camera not too happy with the rain. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5691/...3969ccc7_b.jpg The road joins the river. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5673/...61be6310_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/719/2...5d08f441_b.jpg The road to Tirana is slow and uneventful. Low maximum speed and a large police presence make for a boring ride. Except until I get to the petrol station. As I unzip the top of my rainsuit to reach for my wallet I feel nothing. Stomach freezes. I reach for all my other pockets but nothing is there. I search the tank bag to no avail and have another go at my pockets. No way. That wallet has my bank card and my credit card in it. This goes on for almost ten minutes. This must have happened when I put my suit on, that is the only explanation. My wallet is somewhere back in those mountains and no way it is still lying around. Only one option left, but I would have had to be so distracted for it to be true and no way it could be there. I would be too ridiculous to be true. I undo the dry bag from under the straps in which I normally keep the rain suit. As I unroll the collar I can see the outline of the wallet. Holy shit I cannot believe I put it in there without a thought. I hug the fuel attendant as I hysterically laugh. From now on the cash cards ride separately. I would have been in such a bad situation early on in the trip had I really lost that wallet. During the remainder of the trip to Tirana the sky clears up and I slowly blow dry in the wind. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5802/...065df9ec_b.jpg In Tirana I meet again with the Altin brothers. On a previous trip through the country I had a fall in the mountains and they patched up my bike when all seemed lost. Absolute legends. If you need to get work done on your bike in the region go see these guys: Get your motorcycle fixed by the Altini brothers in Tirana! Reliable and very affordable. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5731/...4a9da654_b.jpg They did some maintenance work on the bike for a couple of days. Nice second hand front tire, new steering bearings and new sprockets and chain. The sprockets were long due for replacement but I wanted to hold off a change until after the Alps. The steering felt smooth as silk, fantastic. Spent another few nights in the city and one of the brothers took me to some evening hotspots. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5638/...baa2e84d_b.jpg Quit showing off Alp! https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5801/...c7896a83_b.jpg Soon enough it was time to leave again and I made my way through the beautiful Albanian countryside. Rode past lake Ohrid where the road was under construction. I really liked this country the first time I was there and I like it even better now. It has a wild quality to it. The nature is beautiful and the riding is good. And that off-roading stint in the north is still one of my favorite riding experiences. Camped out one last night in the south east of the country before I headed in direction of the Greek border. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5654/...f83a32b6_b.jpg |
6. Head for Istanbul
Ahead of me a perfect storm was brewing. One of those freak events that only happens every few years. That storm lay ahead of me and I wanted to reach the eye of it as soon as possible. In the near future the Turkish football club Fenerbahçe was going play one of the last matches of the Turkish Süper Lig season and if they would win, and Besikitas loses or draws, then they would be crowned champions of Turkey. This would unleash intense and crazy football celebrations on the Asian side of Istanbul. The Fenerbahçe fans were going to make sure that the Galatasaray fans on the European side of the city would feel the tremors of victory. Great rivals and sworn enemies. With emphasis on the later because football kills in Turkey. I was not planning on missing this event. And in order to make it Greece would have to get Sloveniad.
Got some change? Jokes aside back then I wondered how it would be for the people in a country to hear for years on end in the news that your country is shit and screwed. Almost two years later I still wonder. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/661/2...9e320279_b.jpg I had been in Greece in 2011 on my way back from Istanbul. Back then it had been the hottest place I had ever ridden and it does not surprise me that the country is always on fire. Riding during springtime was a lot more comfortable. The route to Turkey is straightforward and there were no real alternatives. I could have gone to Athens but by then I was pretty keen on getting out of Europe. And like I said, there lay great festivities ahead of me. So I decided to take the highway. See the thing is, I had to get to Istanbul that same day to be on time for the championship celebrations. I do not say this often but highway I choose you! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/721/2...92fe8c84_b.jpg The day starts with a bit of a hiccup at the Albanian border. After five minutes of customs hassling with my passport and looking in the system I have an idea of what might be wrong. I keep my mouth shut for another five as they go get a supervisor to look at the system. Finally they ask me how it is possible for me to be in the country without being in the system. Remember that tiny border crossing from Montenegro into Albania? It was so tiny and relatively remote that the all-in-one customs, guard and administrative man slept on a bunk bed in his post and had to manually lift the gate. Well, all my passport information was written into a paper logbook with a pencil. I explained to them the situation and I was happy to see that after some reluctant facial expressions on their part that they accepted my story as valid. They let me into Greece and I was back in Europe. Time to burn some rubber. No scorched earth yet during springtime. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/760/2...2b72701d_b.jpg Kavala is always a nice sight on the coast. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5677/...314dcfab_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/735/2...0577cd24_b.jpg After a nice short fun winding road I hit the highway. From there on it was pretty straightforward. I pass Thessaloniki and in the afternoon I head into Kavala for a late lunch. By then I realized that it was going to be a tough mission to get to Istanbul on time. I began to hope for a loss or draw for Fenerbahçe so that they would play the championship match the next weekend. I keep riding and go past Alexandroupoli and just before the border I go to a fuel station. Not that I had to but I knew from my last experience that Turkish petrol is ridiculously expensive. It makes Western Europe look cheap. I think it easily could have been the most expensive fuel in the world back then. At the station I just knew I was not going to make it on time. Still had to cross the border and ride a relatively slow road to Istanbul. And once there in the late evening, in the Madness that is Istanbul, I would have no time to arrange anything. Last cheap fill before I am stuck with murderous Turkish prices for a while. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/692/2...2c6307cf_b.jpg As I fill up the tank I speak to the station manager and tell him about the match. He knows about it and tells me that Fener is playin 0-0. I happily accept the news and ask him if I could check the internet on his laptop. There it was, 0-0 and only five minutes to play. The score stays the same even after extra time. I am pretty damn happy and a load falls of my shoulders. I completely relax and am able to be at ease with feeling tired. By then I had ridden almost 700km, the longest day so far. The manager offered me coffee and we talked for a bit. That way. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5784/...32a7a1e7_b.jpg Back in Turkey. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5729/...0b0d4f2a_b.jpg The hotel manager proudly gets in the picture with me after he tells others to get out of the shot. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/657/2...54c99a47_b.jpg I rode to the border and spent some time zigzagging on the Turkish side. The border complex there is pretty big. I mentioned the match to some of the guards and a couple were pretty damn happy with the result. Especially Besikitas fans since they still had a shot at the Championship. The Fenerbahçe fan shouted “next week!”. I leave the border complex under the cover of night and turn into the first town. There I get some cash from the atm and after I ride to the first big town on the map. I ride around looking for cheap hotels. I find one, haggle for the price, undo everything including the panniers from the bike and take it all upstairs. The bike is chained to a post. What a lovely shabby hotel. Nice dirty communal squat toilet and woolen covers straight from grandma’s attic. It felt like the journey was really picking up momentum now and that night I slept like a baby. I had finally escaped Europe. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5806/...a38d790a_b.jpg |
Mr. Mota Short - Coral Bay to Ningaloo Station off-road
A little compilation of my ride on the Australian west coast. From Coral Bay to Ningaloo Station through and behind the dunes. Great ride, felt like being on a Mongolian road again. Had to get used to the really soft sand for a bit. Good fun.
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7. Ride into Istanbul
After a good night sleep I was ready to finish the final stint to Istanbul. Looking down through the window I happily conclude that the bike was still there attached to the pole. A brief feeling of piece and relief comes over me. This would become a common ritual when in big towns and cities and the result is always the same. One knows that the bike is still going to be there in the morning but in the back of your mind you prepare for the worst. That machine is all I have and I have big plans for it.
Once I did experience that scare but with a different motorcycle. Me and a friend of mine both did. On a previous journey we had bought motorcycles in China and were riding around the country for a couple of weeks. We had spent a few days in Xi’an and one morning we were ready to move on. Casually walking with our gear to the enclosed parking lot behind the hotel, where our bikes had been for the last few days, we stumble on an unpleasant scene. Where our awesome red Chinese 125cc bikes had stood was now nothing. Jialing and Kington were nowhere to be seen. How could this be? No way! GODVERDOMME! Right away you almost feel paralyzed, like you have lost the ability to move around freely. Not like we can go to the police: “So those were your bikes? Yes. Where are they registered? Euuuuuhhhh, they are not”. We look around, look around again, ask people, but nothing. Ten minutes later someone comes outside and beckons us. He takes us to a garage and opens the door. In there stood our two beautiful red devils. The man said he put it in there to help us. While helping though he ruined my friends steering lock mechanism while getting the bikes in the garage since they were chained to each other. Great help indeed since were planning on selling those bikes somewhere around Beijing. The bikes were back though and all of a sudden it felt like we could go anywhere in the world again. Back in Turkey as I am checking out at the front desk the manager wants to take me out for breakfast. Outside I follow him to the end of the street where we turn into the next one. The pavements are bustling with merchant activity. This in contrast to the empty and silent streets of the previous evening when I arrived in the city. We enter a café and as he walks towards the counter he tells me to pick a seat. He points at a couple of pastries and makes his way to the table with two teas. Not your average cuppa but a traditional Turkish Chai elegantly served in small hourglass shaped glasses, which is characteristic to the region. It is the shape of a woman’s body they say. This was the first tea offered to me and it would not be the last for many weeks to come. The owner of the hotel: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/657/2...54c99a47_b.jpg We talk the best we can and I explain in broad strokes what I am up to. We have breakfast and enjoy another few teas. Back at the hotel a few people gather around me as I am packing the bike. Soon enough everything is reattached and strapped on and it is time to head out. I make my way out of the small town and I am on my way on the final stint to Istanbul. Once there the plan was to stay at least a week. It would be the second time I would arrive on motorbike in that glorious city. In 2011 during my first big motorcycle journey I rode to Istanbul and back with a friend which was a big deal. Now I had bigger plans. Mist coming in from the sea on the right. Mosque on the left: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5755/...bb150757_b.jpg The two-lane road was pretty busy and soon enough it follows the coast looking out over the sea of Marmara. It was the same road I took a few years before on the way out. After a while I reach the outskirt of Istanbul and traffic thickens. As I look around me plenty of construction is going on and this sight continues well into the city. This felt strange, especially since I had just arrived from the Balkans. In Europe we were (so they say) finally crawling out of a recession but things out here were booming. Ever since China I can tell when something like that is going on and it surely was going on in Istanbul. Must have been that sweet Arab money. Before I know it I am stuck in traffic and things are heating up. This would go on for most of the next two hours all the way into Istanbul. Outer part of Istanbul in sight: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5727/...2ee29936_b.jpg Once there I just follow the flow where it takes me since I am not in a hurry to get anywhere. I end up at a roundabout with a big entry to a university. After walking around for a bit and seeing many vehicles enter and leave the campus I decide to have a go at it myself. I ask to go inside to meet a friend and the security lets me in with the bike. After a brief ride I walk around the beautiful university campus. On one side you can look down over the city. There I meet some young Turkish men. We spend the afternoon talking and later playing football. In the late afternoon it is time to go and head to the city center to find the hostel I had booked earlier. Picture of one of the university buildings: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/725/2...9198c83c_b.jpg I had set my sights on Taksim which is the outgoing part of Istanbul. During my last time in Istanbul me and a friend stayed in the area of Sultan Ahmed better known as old city. This time around I wanted to have a good time since there was plenty of cultural activities still to come. I fire up the navigation app to find the hostel and soon enough I am riding over the narrow populated streets of Taksim. At times not knowing for sure if I was allowed to be there with a vehicle. Too late now. I think I was very much in the way at times while riding closely past café tables. Though people did not look surprised. And that is the beauty of it. I had arrived in a part of the world where people do the craziest things on the streets and no one loses their shit over a little trial and error. A wide heavily packed motorcycle sidestepping through crowds of pedestrians? Nothing too dramatic. Love it! Section of Taksim where I stayed for the week. Road head leads to the main shopping street with the tramline: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/750/2...d40f4f62_b.jpg I find the hostel which is two stories up. I undo the panniers and in two stints with the last energy of a long day I make my way up the stairs with all my stuff. I enjoyed walking in with two heavy cases instead of a backpack. “How did you get here? I rode here”. Then was the tough decisions of where to put the bike. This was the heart of Taksim. When people in Istanbul are angry then this is where they gather to protest. Clashes between protesters and riot police happen multiple times every year. Next to the hostel will do but I was not too happy with the location. So be it. Time to clean up, rest and get ready for some madness. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5694/...516a7bc4_b.jpg |
It has been a while again. Finished riding around Australia and went for a surf in Bali. What a massive ride it was around that great island continent. In a few weeks I go back to Oz and will ship the bike to New Zealand where I'll spend more than a few months. Enjoying that amazing country and make bank for the crossing of the Pacific to the America's where the other half of the world awaits.
Been getting busy with video the last few months so finally all that footage is getting a new life. Here is a little trailer. |
Schön dich hier auch wieder zu sehen. Neu Seeland wird dir gut gefallen. Ich war 1984 dort, leider ohne Motorrad. beer
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Perfetoooo...love you way of thinking,thanks for posting...
Kawazoki from Serbia |
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Any new plans for future travels mate? Neues fahr plan? Quote:
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Episode 1
Here it is the first episode of my world ride. It starts in present 2016 a couple of months ago, returning to Sydney after having ridden around Australia. Next episode will also take place in 2016 but the one after that will go back to 2014 to departure day in Amsterdam. Enjoy! |
episode 2
Second episode of the ride around the world, again taking place in 2016. Arrange transport for Alp to New Zealand after I ride back into Sydney. Of course I check out Bondi Beach first thing on arrival. Enjoy! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1712/...d4f2cbcc_b.jpg |
episode 3
Third episode of the ride and this is the first one taking place in 2014. This is departure day in Amsterdam, the day it all began. Back then I was so focused on wanting to ride that I barely shot any footage. Not even departure with family and friends which was a shame. Though at least me and Alp were finally on the road. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1593/...d3c17cbe_b.jpg |
episode 4
And the fourth episode. Starting to build some momentum making these video's. Really something I want to stick to so should be interesting once I'm on the road again. Continue in 2014 and we get closer to the magnificent Alps. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1503/...52934a0f_b.jpg |
episode 5
In this fifth episode, we go back to 2016 in Sydney where the ride around Australia has just been completed. Coming back into the urban world after my time in the Outback is strange, to say the least. On the highway into Sydney I get pulled over by the cops. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7473/...d23149fc_b.jpg |
episode 6
In this sixth episode we go back to 2014 in the Alps. Massive mountains covered in snow with awesome winding Alpine roads. Never seen mountains like this and I love it. There is plenty of footage from various angles due to me stopping so many times to have a good look at the Alps so imho this is the best episode so far. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/...9c9d8ac5_b.jpg |
episode 7
From the Swiss Alps into the Italian Alps. Shame that at one point they will be but a spec in the rearview mirror. Such a good and beautiful ride. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/512/2...e387cdfc_b.jpg |
So before I went to Bali for a little surf I cleaned the bike thoroughly and left it with the shipper in Sydney. Now I'm back and yesterday we put the bike in a crate and rinsed off the dust that Alp collected while in the warehouse. Familiar but strange to sit back on the bike after a few months of nimble little automatic 125cc scooters. Slight setback since the shipper could not get the bike on a plane this week because a new guy at Air New Zealand refused to take it with a battery in it. So Monday next week the bike is flying with Qantas to Auckland.
I've shipped the bike once before on a boat and this is the first time with air freight. We'll see on the other side if it really is that much easier and convenient to fly. Ready to head for New Zealand! Pigs don't fly but Transalps do https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/...d0aa44e5_b.jpg Strapping it down to the crate https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7699/...49755390_b.jpg |
Alright, it has been a nice but wet week coming down from Auckland along the western coast for most. Roads winding and ever changing; contrasting the Australian Outback ride. Reminds me of Japan but with a wilder coast and pointier peaks. North Island that is.
Crazy good hospitality and friendliness out here. Thought I lost the laptop and GoPro to the wet weather but after a couple of days they seem to be working properly again. God I have missed winding up and down riding which requires concentration. And pretty serious stuff too in some places, especially in the wet. I do miss that Anakee 3 from Japan. Don't trust this Shinko in the wet so far. Good fun still none the less. Oh, and it looks like I have a lot of cousins out her. And for those coming to New Zealand: Vehicle inspection is pretty serious and not simply a formality. Did not pass it the first time but later that day I did at a different branch. Get me out of this rainy place! Though definitely a nice little skyline, especially from Eden https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7451/2...0c1a9d7e_b.jpg Beautiful green hills of Coromandel Peninsula https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7342/2...05d8787a_b.jpg Rotorua lake during sunset https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7622/2...c5780ca6_b.jpg Somewhere along the wild coast of the East Cape https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7311/2...3df8d59a_b.jpg Alp just tugging along fine and enjoying the ride https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7446/2...75c4e7d5_b.jpg |
Hi Mate, awesome story, great pictures!
What camera do you use? |
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After the East Cape land in Napier and Hastings. Up and down from there. Top case key broke off and that was the last original after going through two cheap copies. Second day top bag got stolen in front of Maccas in Hastings which had sleeping mat, pillow, cooking stuff and chain lube in it. Great loot right risking theft for. Such is life. First time ever something got stolen of the bike but I was warned about it out here. Mysterious low rev sputter is back which I haven't had since Japan. Climate in New Zealand is very similar so could be related. Replaced some spark plugs and nothing. Checked the CDI's and one had a big hole in it. Some sort of pressure release opening that burst due to shorting? Ordered two new aftermarket CDI's to be sent from UK. Today while riding the problem disappeared again. 95% sure now that it is not the CDI but the old familiar phantom issue that comes and goes. Clutch is slipping too since a few days. I'll change it in Wellington. Regardless of all of this the general mood is good. Mainly because of the great people I keep meeting out here. All the occasional bad gets immediately offset by the good out here. Generous and friendly people, good vibe. Bit the bullet and decided to take serious the many Kiwi warnings about the cold out here and especially when I get to South Island. My sleeping bag is rated 0c but that is bs since I end up in fetus position at 5c already wearing thermals. So today I walked into Kathmandu *shudders* and as my wallet tried to run away I assured it that it was absolutely necessary. There was also a sale which eased the pain slightly. Now I have a -8c duck down sleeping bag which I'll put to the test tonight close to 0c. And some quality thermals too instead of the Kmart stuff. Came over the Napier/Hastings - Taihape road today. Beautiful, especially the half inland and so many twists. A lot of blinding sun and shadows in the bends which might be a problem with "black ice" in the future. Oh and logging trucks, jesus, had to get off my line in the bend and ended up straightening out sligtly into in the grass ditch but at low speed. Serious business. Sometimes they come down the middle of the road down narrow roads. 10pm and pretty cold outside, time to go find a camping spot. Stiff upper lip though since this is nothing yet compared to what South Island has to offer. Reminded me a little bit of Mongolia https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7184/2...e2a78bec_b.jpg Layer cake earth https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7405/2...0027e073_b.jpg Vroomvroom https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7692/2...7676577d_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7435/2...0623a56c_b.jpg What's going on here? Some aftermarket CDI's come with that exact spot but still covered by the plastic. https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7788/2...bb264350_b.jpg |
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