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Riding around at Burntmountain. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bdk8...bdk8szQ-XL.jpg Ye, what can I say, at least it's not a piece of tar. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8BFQ...8BFQB8f-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PJwF...PJwFmsg-XL.jpg Damaraland the vistas and views are mind-blowingly beautiful.[/center] http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-92WB...92WB7sd-XL.jpg Stopped often to take in the silence and expanses. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vKvm...vKvmwHb-XL.jpg My arty pics will never be a National Geographic winner. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qzpx...qzpxcQM-XL.jpg Palmwag lodge, cold beers! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5SgJ...5SgJGjL-XL.jpg Palmwag lodge camping, right next to the river and we hoped for some Elephants but they decided not to attend our cheese and wine evening. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LVVB...LVVBDKQ-XL.jpg Happy bike. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MRsd...MRsdTH7-XL.jpg Barbecue meat, nice Oryx come closer!! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-S9z3...S9z32nj-XL.jpg From bottom to top of Namibia on gravel, and the only water crossing! Yeehaa for this puddle! One sad thing about returning to Namibia is to see the influence that tourism has had on the local tribes. It's not nice to see the Himba (apparently the oldest Herero tribe) setting up ‘come see us’ shacks along the main routes – dancing in the road to attract attention, just like street beggars next to traffic lights, child on the hip. At least the crafts on sale are all actually made by themselves. Numerous curios shacks also line the once deserted roads. One even said ‘do not take a picture, come and see us inside’. Guess there’s positives and negatives for this. The influence of main stream tourism on this region has changed them forever. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-B6Bd...B6Bdn5x-XL.jpg You will not get me down! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KpJV...KpJVR4G-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MSKh...MSKhPSx-XL.jpg Ongongo near Sesriem Ongongo is a place where water flow over rocks baking in the sun and then into this pool. It's the perfect place to take a relaxing rest for a few days. There's no people and the locals can get you beers in 2min flat. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4BDZ...4BDZzCH-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pws5...pws5xM8-XL.jpg First of many puncture to come, at least I taught her well to do it while I rest in the shade. [center]I do not have the vocabulary to describe the astonishing beauty of the landscape and scenery to its fullest, if only I had paid more attention in school maybe it would have helped. Especially this part of Namibia with its zebra striped mountains and red coloured sand flowing from broken mountain sides. Why did we had to sit in school with rubbish subjects rather than being taught photography or something worthwhile to enable me to take some decent true too life pictures and to portray this incredible country. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zbPK...zbPKwz7-XL.jpg Last time I camped here was on our Angola trip 3 years ago with Metaljockey and the gang. It's great being back. |
It’s unthinkable how people can live in this arid place called Damaraland. God burned this place black and dark red in anger over Eve’s infidelity, maybe not, but I can’t think of any other reason riding through this beautiful land. If this place does not touch your soul you either do not have one or you are an alien.
The harshness of living in Damaraland is visible on people’s faces, but one thing that you do not expect is the friendliness and welcome smiles every single time you talk to one of the locals. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SQK2...SQK26Rt-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RzkL...RzkLJ3n-XL.jpg Bought Elsebie this necklace in Opuwo from a very persistent seller. I thought I lost it, as I took the seat off I nearly fainted from the horror, thought this ****ing snake was under my ass the entire time while riding!! Well at least it's not gone. In the end we travelled Namibia from bottom to top on gravel and it is one of the most beautiful inviting countries and an absolute on the bucked list. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ScSK...ScSKRR9-XL.jpg That's Angola in the back ground, yes baby your next! Angola will be a short visit and then back to Caprivi and onto Zambia.[/center] |
Great write up. Many thanks for taking the time to share your trip.:thumbup1:
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ANGOLA- CERVEJA OBRIGADO! You only have to know these two words to have locals crack a broad smile and even hard ass police officials won’t be able to keep a straight face. Beer and Thank You are the Portuguese words you need to know when visiting Angola. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0735-X2.jpg MILE MARKER http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...golamap-X3.jpg The last time I visited Angola was with Metaljockey more an off road ride, this time round it is to show Elsebie, Harold and Linda this wonderful country and to try and mix it up with some of the locals. Angola and it's people really have a way of creeping into your heart. After years of war and unrest these people want to go on with their life's and make something for themselves. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0512-X2.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0505-XL.jpg ROAD SIDE BEER STOP But Angola is a fickle mistress! This time she gave me a hard time coming close. Let me give you the absurd before I get to the good stuff. We were supposed to enter Angola at Ruacana border post but the more we talked to the locals at Ruacana that used the route to Cahama, the more we were advised to stay away and use the main border. It’s the rainy season and the roads are so bad that we won’t be able to get to Cahama in a day. Despondent, we decided to crossed at Oshikango, the only major border between Angola and Namibia. Major bloody mistake!!!!!! We gave the Angola embassy in SA the “Letters of invitation “Jose our friend in Angola sends to us for the issue of the visa. Now these numb skulls at the border wanted a copy of it! How in hell must we get them now!? They only issue the visa on having this letter, why does this numbskull now also want to see it while he sit with the visa in his hands? http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0497-XL.jpg MANY RUSTED UP WAR RELICS NEXT TO THE ROAD. We tried to explain but the officials, who could quote from their system the name of the person who issued our invitation, but still they would have none of us. In the end a local fixer sitting behind us under the tree said he will go fetch the fax on the Namibian side at the local bank. Thanks to Moses, who helped us the rest of the way, his fee of about US$40 and 6 hours later we entered Angola! The border officials also did not know what a Carne-de-passage is, nor an International driver’s license and topped it off by telling Linda not to sit on a bench that is under the tree as it is only for officials! This fickle mistress Angola had my blood pressure at boiling point and it was also bloody 40C outside. Angola is not a tourist friendly country. The bureaucracy is mind boggling and the communism shows through now and then. Sounds stupid but that is why we are drawn to these countries, a lot less rules and still not besiege by tourist, you get to taste the local flavour of the country. It is damn expensive to stay in lodges or hotels and restaurants are equally expensive, at least beer and petrol are cheaper than in SA. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0498-XL.jpg click on the picture for a bigger size http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...mg_2613-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0810-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0811-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0813-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...mg_2614-XL.jpg Our destination was Lubango the place of Jose the man that fought against us South Africans in the border war in the 80's and the man that entertained us 3 years ago on our Foz du Cunene trip. We were greeted by Jose at his restaurant (under renovations currently) with a huge smile although he only placed me about two days later due to the long hair. We were planning a trip to Namibe for a stay over, instead Jose would have none of that. He escorted us to Namibe for a day trip and that evening arranged a braai and entertainment by the old band that performed for us on our previous trip. Josef the Louis Armstrong look-a-like wood saw artist. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...mg_2632-XL.jpg THE TRUCK IS NOT PHOTOSHOP INTO THE PICTURE, LINDA AND HAROLD IS BUSY PASSING HIM. WHICH WAS THE MAIN ROAD IS NOW UN DRIVE-ABLE BY CARS AND TRUCKS THEY REVERT TO DRIVING NEXT TO THE ROAD. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...mg_2629-XL.jpg I HELPED THIS MAN, HE ASKED ME TO BORROW HIM A JACK, YE, FOR SURE WE CARRY CAR JACKS WITH US ON BIKES! PLUGGED AND PUMPED HIS TYRE WITH SOME WORMS HE HAD 4 DIFFERENT HOLES AROUND THE TYRE, PUMPED IT AND HE WAS ON HIS WAY. MILES FROM ANYTHING WITH NO MEANS OF CHANGING A TYRE? JUST INSANE. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...mg_2627-XL.jpg IF YOU DRIVE AROUND WITHOUT A SPARE AND A JACK THEN AT LEAST MAKE SURE YOU ASK THE MAN UP THERE FOR HELP. :D http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0506-XL.jpg FRIENDLY FACES http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0508-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...mg_2639-XL.jpg PLAY IT AGAIN SAM The generosity, warmth and friendliness of these Angolans know no bounds. We felt it everywhere we went. People do not look miserable and unhappy in fact they look quite content with their lives in this recovering country. Adults and kids wave to us, no stone throwing or outstretched hands– begging, so unlike the Himba's in Namibia and Lesotho kids. Maybe that is the trade mark of a tourist country versus a non-tourist country. They jump up and down with excitement when we wave back or stop for some photos. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...mg_2644-XL.jpg BEER STOP http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0503-XL.jpg WE GOT TOLD LOVERS LIKE TO DEFACE BAOBAB TREES WITH THE GRAFFITI. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0515-XL.jpg PIKIPIKI'S (small motorcycle) ROAD SIDE REPAIRS. SKILL FULL PEOPLE THIS, NOTHING IS A PROBLEM. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0513-XL.jpg COLOURFUL HOUSES http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...scn0528-XL.jpg MORNING COFFEE AT JOSE'S PLACE WE STAYED IN LUBANGO. Angola also features jaw-drop beautiful landscapes and now in summer it’s even more so. You can go from tropical to desert in 170km and the sea water temperature at Namibe is close to 25 degrees. I understand why so many people immigrate to this country even though it’s is hell hard to do business in Angola, even the locals have a saying “nothing in Angola is easy”. |
Jose, our host since our first time in Angola was very persistent the day before.We had to do a separate trip to Namibe with the bikes. Obviously we were not in the mood to ride the 300km round trip to Namibe in two days. One thing that was a bit of a refresher on this suggestion were that we were going to be able spend some time at the famous Leba pass. We left our luggage at the house and set off with Jose and his wife on his Varadero. There's quite a bike following in Lubango and they often have races in Lubango. We set off with Jose in the lead first stop Leba pass. I can not say why I like Leba pass so much. Maybe it is because it goes back to army time, I don't know, maybe the mystery around it from that time. It's such a great feeling standing on the opposite side of the pass taking in the jaw drop beauty of the place. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0643-XL.jpg Second time this Dakar get the pleasure of riding Leba http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...MG2679a-XL.jpg View from the top of Leba pass with the road meandering down to Namibe in the distance At the bottom of Leba pass there's a row of small stall selling food stuff. The lot sell the same stuff, at the same price. Jose spoiled us with his favourite, chicken stomachs and hearts, a bit on the tough side but very tasty. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...CN0549a-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2664-XL.jpg Local Pikipiki's We left to meet up with Jose's friends in Namibe at the beach front. It's a happening spot with Portuguese elders sitting around sea facing restaurants drinking espresso and grappa the entire Sunday. We met a fisherman that's been in Namibe for 20 odd years and owns the only Harley in the town. It's well looked after bike and it's evident the man loves his Harley more than his kids. The food at these cafe's are the best, fish and chips or local lobster. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...CN0568a-XL.jpg Yes it's dead Harry! http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2676-XL.jpg The reason we came to Angola was for my wife to also experience some of the fun we had on this trip. Angola, it's not like they said And here we were treated to the same hospitality we had from the guys at our previous trip. That evening it was party time at Jose's place with all his friends and their band that got together to play for us. It went on till 3 that morning. The band played anything from Abba to Creedence Clearwater. These people know how to party properly. Their warm hearted friendship was unbelievable we were treated as if we were part of the family for years. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0624-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0635-XL.jpg We meet again after 3 years The next day it was back to Namibe to Jose's beach house. The road took us about 20km North of Namibe. We had to turn off well before the town onto a real shit road. It's a desert waste land and gave the idea of a small Fish river canyon. Unbelievably beautiful vistas. The riding in the desert was mind blowing, well for me, Linda struggled a bit but took it well and kept her head high. It was difficult for her in the sand but this woman's heart is in the right place for riding. * The tracks run all over the place, and then come together again in a sand track just to split off again into several directions. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0675-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0678-XL.jpg Fooling around in the desert. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2689-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0683-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2690-XL.jpg Linda had a bit of a hard time, but she came out head high! http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0688-XL.jpg Jose's beach house....eeerrmm, shack more that you can call a house. Bias dos Pipas, Namibe is where the beach party will be. It’s a colourful small little community that resembles Hentie’s Bay (no shops though). Funny the water is hot but it is next to a desert, I always thought warm coastal water ensures a tropical landscape. We spend the day with Jose and his family, they are a lively active bunch. Jose and his family left at about 8pm for Lubango but we stayed behind to enjoy a night on the beach. How many places can you still park your bike on the beach and sleep there without a worry in the world. This place is a paradise, in fact, worth dealing with some of the bureaucratic nonsense, this country offers maybe even more free living than South Africa. You can trust on Angola to get some tough chicken and we were not disappointed the chicken were tough but tasty, the chips as always good. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...DSCN0693-L.jpg We went on till late that night finishing off the Carlsberg's they left us. Sorting out Africa's problems is hard work. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0711-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2723-XL.jpg The morning after! http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2692-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2712-XL.jpg We met up with Agusto in Namibe the next day, he is a friend of Jose and a 40year old fisherman who owns fishing boats with his dad and to our surprise rides a Harley he bought into Angola with him 20 years ago. He was waiting for 4 of his friends from Portugal. They shipped their bikes from Portugal to Mozambique and then rode all the way to Angola and will be shipping the bikes back to Portugal again. They were apparently inspired by our previous trip report written by Metaljockey (Erik) One of them has never ridden a bike and not to miss out on this epic expedition decided to try it on a quad. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2731-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2739-XL.jpg Agusto invited us to his parents’ house for a local fish braai. This is the strangest darn thing, and maybe it’s because dual purpose riders are sort of cut from the same cloth. Yes, yes it’s a generalisation but to date all these bike riders we have come to meet have become friends of Elsebie and me. These guys felt like my friends from school I have seen 20 years ago, not as complete strangers that only met 30 mins ago. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0712-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0715-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0719-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0721-XL.jpg Having lunch at Agusto's parents place. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2752-XL.jpg Our new friends! I love this and I know I will see them again in the near future even if we have to fly to Portugal or them to SA. This is what it is all about, meeting people making friends and seeing new places……….life is great! http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0729-XL.jpg Spoiling ourselves with a night in a banda on the beach. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0724-XL.jpg Heavily protected missile site in Namibe *:imaposer: http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0725-XL.jpg Zooom in On the outskirts of Namibe and barely 1km out of town we saw these missiles pointing south towards SA, as per urban legend. The local story is some of the missiles are pointing towards the USA and others to SA but for some reason I doubt when they hit the button these missiles will go further than the town’s municipal border. This is even more bizarre than the Custom procedures. I rode up to the gate where the officials sat and asked whether it is possible for me to take pictures of the awesome fire power………noa, NOA!! No,no, they said. |
To get back to the missile story. Nobody knows whether the missiles are in fact real or not or maybe the Angola government just bullshits everybody in thinking they are still a force to be reckon with. I can walk in there at night and take one as a souvenir. Stupid, absolutely bloody stupid. It might be a prank to fool Google earth to pick up on it and scare the USA with their awesome firepower. Whatever the reason I hope for the inhabitants of Namibe those old rusted missiles have been disarmed. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0579-XL.jpg TIME WAS RUNNNG OUT IN ANGOLA, NEEDED TO MOVE ON Angola provided us with a wonderful time. We will go back in the future. Agusto and I have decided to try and ride from Tombua to Foz du Cunene and back on the small bikes the locals use as transport, might make for an interesting trip. Up north from Namibe it is a riding heaven that needs to be explored. That plan is for another day in the future. For now it was time to head back to Lubango say good bye to Jose and his family and head back to Namibia. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0730-XL.jpg EERIE GHOST TREE IN A RIVERBED. STRANGE AS IT'S THE ONLY ONE AROUND LOOKING LIKE THIS. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2761-XL.jpg ANOTHER FUNNY TREE GROWING IN THE DESERT NEAR NAMIBE. On our way back to Lubango we stopped at the Dorsland trekker memorial. You only really understand what this people went through to get there in that time. They had no roads and the terrain is anything but simple. It was not your average sissy paper pusher that can do this kind of trek. It must have been extremely difficult for these people to have trek up to Angola from South Africa. I am humbled. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2765-XL.jpg DORSLAND TREKKER MEMORIAL WITH THEIR GRAVES IN THE FOREGROUND. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles.../IMG2766-L.jpghttp://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles.../IMG2768-L.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0761-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2790-XL.jpg LUBANGO IS A HUGE BUZZING CITY. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2789-XL.jpg A MUST STOP IN LUBANGO, THE CHRIST STATUE OVERLOOKING LUBANGO http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0817-XL.jpg ANGOLAN WAR RUIN http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2649-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2677-XL.jpg ARCHITECTURE IS MOSTLY PORTUGUESE INFLUENCE AND THEY LOVE USING VIBRANT COLOURS. * http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2804-XL.jpg LIVE IS GOOD IN ANGOLA, OVERALL T'S GOING OKAY FOR ANGOLAN'S We said our farewells in Lubango and head back towards Namibia. Camping spots in Angola is non existent, camping next to the road is the way to go and actually a load better than staying in crappy hotels at 5star prices. We never had problem camping next to the road as long as you stay well away from big settlements. Eating at shops next to the road is cheap and the food although not gourmet stuff still good and big enough portions to fill even a big hunger. The best is beers are available everywhere even remote places stock beers. * http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2803-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2809-XL.jpg THERE'S A DEPOSIT ON BEER BOTTLES AND THE LOCALS DO NOT LIKE US TAKING AWAY THE BOTTLES. BEST OPTION WAS TO EMPTY THEM INTO A BLADDER..........HUGE MISTAKE! http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0791-XL.jpg WILLEM, LOCAL ELDER WE CAMPED NEAR HIS HOUSE, OUT OF RESPECT WE ASKED HIM FOR PERMISSION, HE EVEN SPOKE A BIT OF AFRIKAANS. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...DSCN0785-L.jpg Last night in Angola and we camped under huge Baobab trees. We had enough beer and whiskey and it end up in a hellova party. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...IMG2802-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0786-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0805-XL.jpg http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0794-XL.jpg NO STOP WITH ANGOLAN BEERS, NGOLA IS NOT YOUR AVERAGE BEER, YOU DRINK YOURSELF OUT OF YOUR CLOTHES. http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...SCN0770-XL.jpg Angola was a blast, making new friends, thrills and spills, we had it all. I will forever remember the good memories of this trip into Angola. For now it was time to head to Zambia.. |
Namibia Caprivi http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zcF4...zcF4CTS-XL.jpg Back into Namibia from Angola we headed along the border towards the Caprivi strip. Harold and Linda decided to ride back from Oshakati via Tsumeb and then Rundu. For Elsebie and myself sitting on tar that much after all the stunning dirt roads we have done it was pure torture. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tXcB...tXcBxsv-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fPNH...fPNHnKn-XL.jpg Sun down in the Caprivi after the rainsi We headed East towards Rundu and would meet up with Harold and Linda near Pupa falls. The diversity in Namibia is mind blowing, there's deserts, grass lands, Damaraland and the Caprivi which offers some off the most beautiful sunsets and abundant wild life you can imagine. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nnvw...nnvwGRR-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Nkrt...NkrtxPt-XL.jpg SOME MEAN ASS FLIES ROAMING AROUND THE CAPRIVI http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rfcP...rfcPgL8-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Xpxd...XpxdnC8-XL.jpg Life is great especially wen it is raining in the Caprivi Tracks4Africa listed some community camp sites which were all empty. We stayed at one just before entering the Caprivi strip. Cost us about nothing, was safe and had a cold shower and clean toilet. Camping at these places always offers that bit more and is a bit more special to stay over with them. Most of the times you can have a good chat to the locals and sit and enjoy a beer with them. They just love to talk to these funny travelers. The old Pupa falls campsite is now a run down dump. Luckily next to them other private lodges with really cool campsites have open up and offer cold beers and even a workshop to work on a BMW. Pity these lodges got such difficult names, Tuna Mutambura lodge. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SNxg...SNxgGHB-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tsrB...tsrB6TS-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mxN4...mxN4wvM-XL.jpg Camping in Namibia the best in the world! We spend two night there relaxing, and I had to fix the Dakar's steering head bearings for the first time. The lodge owner was really helpful and gave me space behind his workshop and some tools too fix the bearings. For the rest it's easy to find peace here, sitting on the deck for hours watching the hippo's drift past and see how the sun die slowly over the horizon in a deep red glow. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-d6dZ...d6dZ6kZ-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cgkZ...cgkZPT5-XL.jpg The last night there we over indulged on the wine a bit, luckily our new destination was only 300km away at Mazambala island lodge. We raced there, it was damn hot and the thought of more beers and relaxation next to a river and a pool was just what was needed. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-skxv...skxvFmS-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fZgw...fZgwDCn-XL.jpg We had to pack in the luxury camping while we can, from Zambia going up, camping and nice to haves will be a thing of the past. This is one stunning lodge, you camp next to the river and the lodge is on a island. They use boats to ferry people to and fro. We were lucky it was out of season as we had the campsite to our selves. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pZ7Z...pZ7ZpMz-XL.jpg Super long water flower thingamajick http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-75pX...75pXsVB-XL.jpg This feels the same as the Everglades in Florida http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XFWL...XFWL49D-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XDSG...XDSGfP9-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HLLV...HLLV7Jc-XL.jpg Time was running out for Namibia, Zambia was next. |
Murphy you bloody basted! PART1 They say when things go too well, Murphy will end it soon enough. Much did we know that when entering Zambia from Katimo Mulilo Namibia border post. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NXsQ...NXsQppz-2X.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CRLQ...CRLQbnD-XL.jpg ZAMBIA BORDER POST It's a small border post and things went quick on the Namibian side. However the Zambian side was a laugh a minute. Chaos and run down dirty buildings with hordes of people standing around. Everything paid we were out of pocket around 100USD for all the stupid taxes the Zambian charge. The one tax was payable in a old caravan wreck that had no seats and only a box and table for the man to write down the stuff. Then if that was not bad enough, his stamp was warn down and the ink pad was dry, eventually I made him lick the stamp to get something visible on his tax paper. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dBcG...dBcG4cj-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mrgL...mrgLNtC-XL.jpg FAWLTY TOWERS BACKPACKERS IS THE ONLY PLACE TO STAY IN LIVINGSTON. We ended up at Faulty Towers backpackers in Livingston the small town close to the famous Victoria water falls, a vibrant hip happening spot. Across the road from Faulty Towers in the main road on the way to the falls is a restaurant The Spot. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-btkT...btkTRPj-XL.jpg The owners are a South African born woman and a Zambian woman, they make the best Piri-Piri chicken in Africa and at very reasonable prices. They will also make you any local dishes if arranged before the time. They really are a friendly bunch of people. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2kv7...2kv7fj6-XL.jpg FOOD IS EVERYWHERE AND CHEAP http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pbQ4...pbQ4Zqs-XL.jpg IMPORTANT THINGS FIRST The idea was to head for Kariba Lake and take the dirt roads that run along the lake up to Siavonga. We knew they had plenty of rain but thought we would go that way and if stuck just turn around and take the tar road up to Lusaka. *None of the Livingston folk could give us any indication what the roads along this stretch were like. Livingston is a best experienced for two or more days. It's a small happening town with friendly folke and a busy town centre. Famous name hard liquor cost on average 30% cheaper than is SA. Obviously we stock up on Johnny Walker Black and other expensive stuff we normally don't indulge in when in SA. There's quite a few private game reserves around Livingston that offer camping for cheap. When at the falls on the Zambia side you can ask the customs police at the bridge to walk over to the Zimbabwe side to get a look over the falls from that side. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pBFJ...pBFJB3J-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G6MR...G6MRQ9M-XL.jpg FAMOUS VICOTRIA FALLS Harold and Linda did not feel up to dirt at that stage and set off for Siavonga via the main road, we would meet up again in a day or two. *As we rounded a bend on our way to Kariba Lake near a small town called Sinazeze, Elsebie’s bike suddenly became a low rider. *The top shock bolt sheared off and the shock moved out of its bracket and, well ………………… the top part of the shock broke off dropping all the oil on the tarmac. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3NSH...3NSHJDL-XL.jpg SHIT HAPPENS SHOCK TOP BOLT SHEARED OFF. As we were standing there still trying to make plans how to get the bike to Lusaka or Livingstone an ex South African farmer pulled up next to us offering some help. He farms for Zambeef close to where we got stranded. He immediately phoned his workshop manager, Servaas, to come and collect the bike and take it to their workshops. From there their farm compound was 12KM further located next to the lake. We could stay there and try figure out how to get the bike going again. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CDBK...CDBKNc3-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TwLJ...TwLJZ3R-XL.jpg RELAXING NEXT TO KARIBA The entire compound consisted of ex South Africans working for Zambeef, according to them, Zambia is South Africa 20 years ago with regards to ease of living. Everybody is safe and crime is virtually zero. A beautiful spot with very generous people. That evening we were invited to a braai with the farmers, that turned into a party that lasted well into the early hours of the morning. They say booze don't solve your problems, it sure as hell helped with the shit feeling I was sitting with. The entire night I was mulling it over how to get this bike out of there and the bloody time it is going to set us back with. The only thing I could do was to get the shock out the next morning and see if there's any thing I can do to get us out of the place. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MwSJ...MwSJMzW-XL.jpg WE LOVED EATING AT THESE FOOD STALLS, CHEAP AND TASTY The biggest problem was the farm is so remote, it's nearly 400km back to Livingston and 450km to Lusaka. The previous day when we offloaded the bike the spring unhook and the bike stood as if everything was okay. We decided to pack up greed the friendly farmers and try and ride the bike as is to Lusaka. As long as the spring work we will be fine. At this stage I still did not know what exactly broke. Elsebie insisted on riding her own bike and like on a pogo stick unceremoniously hopped her way as we road on to Lusaka. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JPK3...JPK3Gt8-XL.jpg FIXING THE DAKAR'S SHOCK I got hold of Kurt our friend in South Africa and he was able to get us a new (2nd hand) shock flown into Lusaka within the next few days. We ended up in Lusaka at Chachacha backpackers. As we rode into the grounds Neill aka Jenson Button was sitting on the floor with a despondent look on his face motorcycle tube in one hand and a knife in the other contemplating cutting it up as a liner for his front tyre. Nice surprise to see him and the XT made it so far. **** it mate, lets drink beer and then I will help you sort it out. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-84RG...84RGmVv-XL.jpg CHRISTMAS CAMPING AT CHA CHA BACKPACKERS IN LUSAKA There’s not much to be said about Lusaka it’s a big busy African city. The big South African companies are all represented there together with China taking over with big gusto. |
Murphy you basted! Part2 It was just after Christmas and Cha Cha Backpackers was overflowing with an unsavory dodgy bunch of Indian travelers, coughing, belching and convulsing to such an extend that the entire camp were up early at 4am. Harold as the passive one nearly got physical with one of them just before sunrise. It was the funniest thing to see this normally calm pacifist lose his temper that bad. He eventually also had to crack a smile at the situation. There are better places to stay in Lusaka, we just had to stay there due to the spares we were waiting for. The owner of the backpackers maybe didn't understand what backpackers meant when he allowed an entire village with kids and elders to move in. In any case so you learn. We set out of Lusaka for the nearly 800km trip to Monkey Bay hopeful that the bikes are sorted and we will be able to hit the sandy beaches in two days’ time. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8HKQ...8HKQpNH-XL.jpg CROSSING THE LUANGWA RIVER BRIDGE Unfortunately the basted Murphy had other ideas for us. I was still riding with the smell of fresh rain in my nostrils when my bike suddenly over heated and dumped hot radiator water all over my left leg. This was not the kind of engine trouble I was hoping we would have to deal with on this trip, and especially this early into the trip. Shocks, tyres, chains, but not over heating engines or similar problems that can potentiality stop a trip. Fuuuuck!! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-b5WG...b5WG762-XL.jpg BOYS SCOUT PEDDLING AFRICA TOP TO BOTTOM, THEY CONSUME BAGS OF RICE AND MAIZE PORRIDGE TO KEEP THEM GOING. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-32hG...32hG5dq-XL.jpg WE OFTEN MADE BEER STOP, THE HEAT AND HUMIDITY DEHYDRATED US QUITE QUICK . As a troubleshooting exercise we took out the thermostat, rode it and the red light came on, next swop out the heat sensors, nope, not that, red light comes one after 2km. Then only option that was left was to check the water pump, but for that we had to get to a place to stay. We had no choice but to tow the bike to the nearest town. *Just before Nyimbi we came past a motel that looked like a ghost place, hotel Baghdad came to mind. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jxZv...jxZvXdc-XL.jpg MURPHY THE EVIL BASTARD HAD TO PLAY A TRICK ON US AGAIN Hotel Kacholola’ owner George and his grandson Richard were so helpful. We were very great full for the cold beers, in a Paraffin fridge, and the clean rooms even without running water. *The place is run down but you will go far to get a more friendlier and helpful host. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2HTz...2HTzMNX-XL.jpg HAVING ICE COLD BEERS IN A GHOST HOTEL, BROKEN BIKE CAN WAIT. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Bqgr...Bqgrp8r-XL.jpg VIEW FROM OUR ROOMS The next morning Harold and myself got the surgery underway. I called Kurt a friend in South Africa his advice was a easy check, take the pump cover off and see if the impeller spin by hand, if so the waterpump gears are ****ed. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DQRK...DQRKzLK-XL.jpg ZAMBIA BIKE WORKSHOP. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-g5xN...g5xN7vd-XL.jpg The only clean place we could found was a dilapidated grass thatch that were used to be part of a veranda many moons ago. The view over the mountains from there was just jaw drop beautiful. It took us a bit of time to figure out what's what, eventually we got the clutch cover off and all the other bits. Our worst fear came true, the waterpump gears were stripped. At this point, I was really a bit down and out on the bikes, I so wanted the bikes to do this trip without issues. The Dakar's are suppose to be bullet proof bikes, I made sure the last few years that I got to know everything about the bikes and what needs to be looked at. It took me 3 weeks to prepare the bikes before the trip and make sure everything was looked after. My bike was on 40000km and never gave one problem. How I could have missed the the fact that the waterpump gears could fail was a mystery to me. Only now after the fact and lots of research the problem is more related to 2004 and 2005 year models and later. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zQTs...zQTsW8C-XL.jpg CANDLE LIGHT DINNER AT HOTEL KACHOLOLA http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-N62n...N62n3Jz-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JPX6...JPX6Bpk-XL.jpg ABOUT THE ONLY THING A GAS CANISTER IS USEFUL FOR What to do next? We had no spare gears, we had a waterpump kit but no gears. It was around 500km back to Lusaka, but we cant tow that far it will take us forever, and then we miss the Malawi new years party. We decided to try and get the bike to the border where Metaljockey can come and fetch us. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Jp9M...Jp9M26P-XL.jpg THESE WOMAN OVER CHARGED US! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gJGC...gJGCt45-XL.jpg GETTING MY ASS KICKED BY A BOY. We spend the rest of the day trying to find transport for the bike to the border, washing and cleaning stuff. We had a great time with all the locals, playing chess and just sit drinking beers. These rural towns are small gems, we left everything on the bikes at night, nothing gets lost or stolen. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-t3nV...t3nVj9j-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2ckV...2ckVs6h-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VSh8...VSh8KTx-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-W9x7...-W9x787m-M.jpg FIVE STAR LIVING, NO REALLY THIS IS FUN It’s good to have good friends around. Metaljockey and Lindsay convinced another South African man, Sarel to borrow them his brand new VW Transporter to come and fetch us in Zambia. If not for that we would not have been able to get there in time for New Year’s, and both Lindsay and Metaljockey made considerable effort meeting us their. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-q62v...q62vkLk-XL.jpg FIRST TRY TO GET TO THE BORDER. LUCKILY METALJOCKEY MADE IT. We tried from our side to arrange a truck or van to get the bike to the border and have Metaljockey only drive to the border. As things go in Zambia it’s African time, and as the day pasted all prospects that we tried to arrange turned to nothing. At last after 5pm a local teacher arrived with his borrowed Chinese van we started loading the bike. As luck would have it, as we set off to get to the border which would have taken us till after nine that evening, Metaljockey called and said he has just cleared the border and will see us later the evening. We can then leave the next morning early for Malawi. Metaljockey had to lie at the border post to get the car through and took a huge risk if they found out it was not his car they could have confiscated the vehicle. But that is what lengths he will go to for a friends. With all the trouble our stay turned out to be an enjoyable time, we had a great experience with the locals and their heartwarming helpfulness. Malawi here we come!!!!! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Kgvm...KgvmF6s-XL.jpg |
MALAWI'S "NEVER LEAVE DISEASE CALLED BONGI FEVER" part1 http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DN9q...DN9qzXj-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hkrX...hkrX9H2-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QXsc...QXscRmM-2X.gif In short, Malawi turned out to be this warm exotic paradise people told us about. Golden sandy beaches with clean water, super friendly people, cheap beer and food, and the best snorkelling. It's easy to understand why so many people get such a serious infection of Bongi fever. The local term when referring to over landers or travellers that get stuck in Malawi and just never leave. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-X53h...X53hwbK-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-56vZ...56vZxNj-XL.jpg FAT MONKEYS, MONKEY BAY Lake Malawi is not your average dirty smelly dam, the water is crystal clear, it's clean and the most beautiful coloured tropical fish swim around the rocks in the shallow water. Why Lake Malawi is this way I don't know. It's not a typical lake *as with Kariba for example. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xDSm...xDSmGQT-XL.jpg It's a small country with not much industry other than tourism, and some tobacco exports. Their money is not worth much and you look like a drug dealing gangster with all the cash you have to draw at ATM's. Driving around Malawi is slow as most people live next to the road nothing more than 80 is about the max for safe driving. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NsZV...NsZV6Dj-XL.jpg DRYING RACKS FOR KAPENTA FISH http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dnJr...dnJrShp-XL.jpg DUGOUTS, BOAT CAN LAST FOR AROUND 10 YEARS. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nfpM...nfpM6PF-XL.jpg The land is cultivated and worked by old people the hard way. For the rest it's a dirt poor place. South Africans have made this a popular holiday destination and some locals can utter a few funny sounding Afrikaans words. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XJDL...XJDLNS3-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Zhd3...Zhd38vz-XL.jpg ANY TOY WILL DO http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mPLf...mPLfKxD-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-39mQ...39mQt6Q-XL.jpg THEY ARE WORKING COPIES, THE DETAIL IS AWESOME. ROAD SIDE SHOP IS CALLED TOYS'R'US As we drove into Fat Monkeys in Monkey Bay Cape Mclear, Plottie as appointed head of the local welcoming committee promptly shoved some beers into our hands as we climbed out of the Kombi. Elsebie rode her bike from Zambia as the Kombi could only take the one Dakar. Unceremoniously we parked the broken Dakar under the Mango tree to be fix after the new year and we wasted no time setting up camp. Linda and Harold have decided to stay over in Lilongwe for a few days before meeting up with us again. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-43WQ...43WQhHW-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nnTg...nnTgKCX-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Wj2m...Wj2mfDg-XL.jpg DRUG DEALER AMOUNT OF PAPER ONLY PAID FOR FEW BURGERS There is no other place near the Southern side of Malawi with the same island style feeling. Loads of young people from all over the world frolic around on the beach with golden brown tanned bodies. It's hot and humid, even at night it's hot and the mosquito's are the kind that can drag a small kid out of it's bed by the legs. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ffHL...ffHLV4F-XL.jpg FAT MONKEYS BAR, GIN AND TONIC'S AND BEERS, FOR THE REST READ THE DAYS AWAY. The water is a comfortable 25"degrees and perfect for sitting around at the shore with friends consuming copious amounts of beers. The clean water had the kids spend their days in the lake. It's a very cheap holiday, camping cost around R50 per stand per day. Breakfast at the lodge cost around R80 for two people. Beers go for R8 and soft drink cost cheaper. * http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JjDf...JjDfXHJ-XL.jpg SHA NANA The first thing the next day was to go swim at a secluded beach not far from the lodge. The boat's name is Sha nana and it's skipper is Jumbo, a super friendly chap with a huge white smile. The man and his crew got this cool laid back attitude to them. Noooothing is a problem. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-L85z...L85z9hd-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TTLq...TTLqb9r-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8DSd...8DSdTTP-XL.jpg Just after Christmas many of the South Africans that holidayed their left to spend New Year in South Africa. The next day the camp was empty and only Metaljokey and family stayed over to enjoy the New Years party. Around the same time two bikers riding from the UK to CP arrived. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bQtZ...bQtZCJN-XL.jpg HAROLD AND LINDA TRYING TO GET RID OF BONGI FEWER WITH WATER MEDITATION THERAPY It's really great meeting up with people doing the same kind of trips, exchange ideas, news, places to stay and avoid. We still had the difficult part in front of us and they are on the holiday side of things going down to SA. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jfzL...jfzL5NV-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zPTP...zPTPNGv-XL.jpg *SUN DOWNERS AND SUNSETS * |
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TmDs...TmDsJQB-XL.jpg Parties all behind us it was time to tackle the broken Dakar. The bike was standing beneath the big old Mango tree since we arrived and we decided to conduct the repairs there as it offered the most shade. BOAT RIDE AROUND THE CORNER FROM FAT MONKEY'S WE SPEND A DAY SNORKELING AND HANGING AROUND THE ROCKY OUTCROPS WITH SMALL COLOURFUL TROPICAL FISH NIBBLING AT YOUR FEET. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gD5M...gD5M3RT-XL.jpg SOME OF THE BEST SUN-DOWNERS YOU WILL EVER ENJOY IN YOUR LIFE http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tJWS...tJWS8rt-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-886S...886SxX6-XL.jpg METALJOCKEY AND HIS DAUGHTER SNORKEL http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3772...3772pQ7-XL.jpg MAGIC OF LAKE MALAWI, TROPICAL FISH AND CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Dwzf...DwzfnZ4-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BxS5...-BxS5MM8-M.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mJNJ...mJNJbv4-XL.jpg HOME BASE FOR NEARLY 18DAYS, BOUGHT BEERS AND SODA'S IN CASE LOAD AS IT'S MUCH CHEAPER http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GMfv...GMfvp4R-XL.jpg BEERS ARE CHEAP AND BREAKFAST AROUND 2USD http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5F7G...5F7GTCH-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hFk6...hFk6svC-XL.jpg PLENTY OF YOUNG BACKPACKERS http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LqWr...LqWrHhQ-XL.jpg CAPENTA'S FOR LUNCH, NOT BAD WITH COOKED PUMPING LEAFS http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-45WP...45WPbq6-XL.jpg LIFE IS TOUGH, THIS IS A LOCAL TRAVELLING SALESMAN WITH HIS HOMEMADE DISPLAY CARTON BOX, SKIPPER OF THE BOAT GAVE HIM A LIFT BACK HOME http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q3fh...Q3fhG4s-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HC5R...HC5Rmfh-XL.jpg METALJOCKEY AND HAROLD CHOONING THE BIKE ;-) The parts for the bike took longer than expected and I still had to get the bolt that broke off in the water pump casing fixed. That in itself is a problem sitting at Monkey Bay. It is not the kind of town that offers engineering services or anything more than what you would get in, some other small place around the North Pole. The only other town capable of drilling and tapping a screw is Lilongwe and that is a full day’s excursion getting there and back. It is slow going in Malawi the roads are narrow and there’s always people on the road, the average speed is less than 70km/h. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mSr4...mSr42HG-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3tXj...3tXjxPp-XL.jpg HIGH-TECH WELDING SHOP There is a port at Monkey Bay that also repairs ferries and cargo ships that cruise Lake Nyasa. With nothing to lose I took Elsebie’s bike and head off for the works hoping that they would be able to repair the casing for me. When talking to people and they seem confident enough making a repair but the first thing they want to do is weld, I get a bit worried and I had to explain to these artist that if they ****-up this casing I will have to get a new one from SA and that is another week and 800USD down the drain. Yes, yes we understand came the answer with a broad smile on the face, and no, it still does bugger all to my confidence meter. They then proceed to weld an extra piece on the stud with a welder that draw enough power that will dim all of Japan's nuclear facility’s lights for a few seconds. *The works was taken over by a new company and the equipment is not in the best shape http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qpMv...qpMvHvG-XL.jpg RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB? NO....IT'S THE ONLY TOOL FOR THE JOB When that did not work they clamped the casing on to the biggest and oldest drill press they had and with old drill bits the one technician had to fetch at his home, started drilling into the casing. The drill bit was also bent but that did not deter them on their quest to show this pale face that they can fix this small problem. *Well two hours later and 7USD poorer I set off with a skew drilled casing that I was hope would work. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-V7bf...V7bfmC2-Xl.jpg BIKES GOT THEIR NEW PAINTINGS The hole drilled and tapped as scew as a cork screw pig's penis and tapped with two or three threads able to pull the bolt I got the thing back. Kurt was on speed dial in South Africa and had to help out with information. I could not buy radiator fluid and used the lake water instead. I did not think it was such an issue and will replace the water in Tanzania once we get there. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kfFk...kfFkWTS-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-T3gv...T3gv7XK-Xl.jpg BUSH MECHANIC EXTRAORDINAIRE Jenson Button, aka the Neill helped me fit everything together and I must say I felt a bit red faced that a man travelling on an a bike the same age as Jan van Riebeeck’s boat, 6Volt Yamaha is helping me to fix the supposed to be best bike for this kind of trip. All in good spirit and teasing from Neill while fixing the bike we set off North to Nkhata Bay and Mayoka Village. Stupid bloody mistake with the radiator fluid that would come back to haunt me! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kWBC...kWBCQsf-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8Vt4...8Vt4dRS-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6mBQ...6mBQwF6-XL.jpg JAMBO THE SKIPPER FROM SHA-NANA COOKED US SOME FISH AND RICE Fat Monkey's is a popular place for overlanders to chill and enjoy the local beers. While there we met up with Thomas and Ruth. He is a Optometrist that bought this 30 year old truck in East Germany, load his bike and set off straight through Africa and the Sahara desert to SA. Eventually after 2years he stopped in Malawi on hs way up again and got Bongi fewer. It' now 3 years later and they are still there. He married Ruth, she did a solo trip on a Transalp around Aus, Tanzania, New Zealand, and then the East. She also ended her trip in Malawi and the Transalp are still her only bike. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tTHp...tTHp2x7-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3hZw...3hZwkfw-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-35zR...35zRJGf-XL.jpg HIPSTER HIPPIE INTERIOR OF THE EAST GERMAN ARMY TRUCK Then these two mad Brits pulled in, both on their way to SA. James came down the East side of Africa with his normal 2001 GS heading towards SA. He strarted last year August. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jhLk...jhLknNF-XL.jpg JAMES AND HIS TRUSTY 650GS |
Ted also came down the East Coast and also quit his job to do this trip. He did South America and Europe before trying Africa. He insisted a DRZ is the bike to do this trip and it is still going strong. Some of us disagree but with the Dakar breaking all over the show we can’t argue. All with soft luggage. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jS7F...jS7F2SW-XL.jpg TED AND HIS DRZ400 http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vLSN...vLSNdT9-XL.jpg As things go, we scribbled on each others bikes for good luck. Malawi really crept deep into our hearts, it’s a wonderful country with equal measures of friendly faces and colourful people, Malawi people are a laid back bunch there’s not much that upset them. *It is different to a sea vacation the water is clean and makes for easy swimming compared to sea swimming, no tides or currents when snorkelling and we spend more time swimming than normally when having a holiday at the coast. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-X7Nj...X7NjpwK-XL.jpg kIDS DO THE DARNEST THINGS http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nbq2...nbq2SKq-XL.jpghttp://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8nNz...8nNzHx6-XL.jpg EXCHANGE ROUTE INFORMATION AND DRINKING BEERS....WHAT A LIFE It was time to get going, we have spend a good 3 weeks hanging around there, the fewer was getting to us. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VxW3...VxW3hTt-XL.jpg TIME TO GET OUT OF THE WATER AND GET GOING |
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4qvb...4qvb9mP-XL.jpg MALAWI PART 2 http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tqpn...TqpnRWj-X3.gif It was time to move on, the fewer in Malawi is bogging us down. The bikes was fixed and looked after as good as we could, and with some sad faces we rode out of Monkey bay on our way north to Nkatha bay, our next stop. We were bit behind on time for our 6 month planning but thought we would be able to make it up once out of Malawi as there's parts in Tanzania that we can skip. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pkS9...pkS9Xr6-XL.jpg INFRASTRUCTURE NOT IN GOOD SHAPE http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dbQL...dbQLhLC-XL.jpg KIDS ARE ALWAYS FAST TO GET SOME CAMERA ACTION We hugged the coast line of the lake. It's a old narrow road with derelict bridges. For the first time we also saw the famous lake flies of Lake Malawi. Apparently they are so small they can fly through a mosquito net, the larvae at the same time shed their eggs and then get blown up by the wind in their billions to life for a day. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cjvg...cjvgQFk-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tr2B...Tr2BgwG-XL.jpg WE SAID GOOD BYE TO JENSON BUTTON AND HIS OLD XT AND BRANDED HIS HOME MADE PANNIERS AS TRAX We heard some say they do not even have stomachs. It’s mind blowing to see these clouds of flies sweeping across the lake. We also wanted to try them as the locals make small cakes from them, but in the end we could not find any. People told us the flies stink of fish for some reason. It's unbelievable that such small creatures can make up such huge clouds. They are visible over vast distances on the horizon of the lake. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tx6D...Tx6DHds-XL.jpg LIFE IS TOUGH IN AFRICA http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hKDc...hKDcrdf-XL.jpg MYOKA VILLAGE IN NKATHA BAY Mayoka village in Nkatha bay is a must stay, it’s not really geared for kids as there’s no beach. For adults and young travellers its paradise! The lodge hangs on a cliff it was started 13 years ago. From the shower or rooms you can look down into the lake and see the small blue fishes play between the rocks. They offered some of the cheapest rates for their rooms and their food was the best we had in Malawi. For the time stayed there our bikes were left at the gate with all our kit and they had a guard 24hours a day looking after our stuff. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6rnw...-6rnwbqC-L.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-j6qM...-j6qMgfP-L.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4mtk...-4mtkcX9-L.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FhGZ...-FhGZt9k-L.jpg ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY TOILETS AND OUTSIDE SHOWERS ARE ALL PART OF THIS COOL LODGE http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wpNB...-wpNBmm2-L.jpg *http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zXMZ...-zXMZh6G-L.jpg FOOD AS ALWAYS ARE GREAT AND THE PARTIES NON STOP. We went on a free boat trip they offer once a week for cliff diving, Fish Eagle feeding and beach games. The most amazing experience is seeing a Fish Eagle take a fish out of the water right in front of you! I don’t think anywhere else in the world will you see something like this. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wbsN...-wbsN6mk-L.jpg FISH EAGLE DOING WHAT IT DOES BEST, CATCH FISH, AND HE NEVER MISSED http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CsHQ...-CsHQ2Zz-L.jpg * * * http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kfPG...-kfPGC2n-L.jpg CLIFF DIVING http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5V82...-5V82jhF-L.jpg *http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ckCk...-ckCkWFv-L.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-p2vq...-p2vqSxX-L.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SB27...-SB276sN-L.jpg We end up spending another 5 days at Myoka, the Bongi fewer was seriously getting to us. We were behind on time and had to make up skipping other parts of Malawi but it was worth it. The small town of Nkatha bay is a busy little place with it's own prison and harbour. It's great walking around there exploring the small shops and talking shit with the locals. Some straight out ask for money while others will at least say hello first. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-d3dK...d3dK4Qz-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9f9g...9f9g77m-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tFf5...tFf5Swc-XL.jpg A TRUE WTF MOMENT? http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QbrD...QbrD3X2-XL.jpg WELL JA, WHAT CAN I SAY, THEY ENFORCE THE LAW http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3KX3...-3KX3GWn-M.jpg THIS MAN WAS ONE OF THE FOUNDERS AND BUILDERS OF THE LODGE 13 YEARS AGO, HE EARNED HIMSELF THE NAME CHOCOLATE MAN. HE HAS BEEN SELLING CHOCOLATES EVERY NIGHT AT THE LODGE SINCE IT OPENED. THE LODGE IS A COMMUNITY OWNED PLACE. |
Tanzania was calling............. Tanzania was calling and we had to get our asses off the beach and leave the paradise feeling behind. Us all were fighting Bongi fever. Eventually we had to concede the only way to get rid of Bongi fever was to get on the bikes and get outta paradise, the place was fast consuming our lust for travel. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XnVn...XnVnV5S-XL.jpg REMEMBER THE FIRST RULE OF MUD, MUD MUST NEVER KNOW YOU ACTUALLY RIDING ON IT. We got on the road with heavy rains predicted for our entire journey up to Tanzania. In the first town the GPS routed us through a market and the road suddenly ended in a muddy track that route through a busy wood market. Harold got out too late and dumped the bike into a ditch. The eager helpers broke off more stuff on his bike trying to get it out of the ditch than what the fall did in the first place. The poor man was now without a rain suite, yes he lost it on his way to Myoka, and now his screen is in three pieces. Well at least half his face will be out off the wind. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qFTd...qFTdSfN-XL.jpg ALWAYS SOME FRIENDLY PEOPLE AROUND TO HELP A MAN OUT OF TROUBLE, PAYMENT TALK LATER. Halfway between Nkatha bay and the Tanzania border we came across this place where, they proclaim to have the only and oldest natural tree branch hang bridge in Africa, the bridge apparently date back to early days of evolution. They say at one stage a hippo tried to cross but got stuck halfway through. This is also currently the only way across the river for the locals, so everything they buy have to go across this bridge. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-t23t...t23t7Jz-XL.jpg MALAWI HANG BRIDGE At the same place they have a small stuffy dirty smelling dung hut of a museum with only the front door offering light into the place of worship. The story goes that they had two gods, the one for a man and the other for a woman. The one looked like the devil that's depicted in children's bibles and the other one like some ugly thing with horse tail for nose hairs. Donno why they show the woman statue with the nose hair, and if woman ever did grow nose hair that long? Maybe it was a sexual thing in the past, who knows?! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-479g...479gTtC-XL.jpg http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NpFF...NpFFRg4-XL.jpg These were the gods they prayed to and worshiped for rain and good fortune. On a question what happened to the gods why are they not praying for them anymore? Well, the man said, the Christians came to Malawi and taught us that these gods are no good, they are just statues. We must change to worship the Christian God and so we changed, but now the Muslims are also wanting us to change again. Go figure! As with Uganda it seems the biggest growing faith is Jehovah witnesses in Malawi. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HNGM...HNGM3x7-XL.jpg We had to sleep over at Sangilo lodge just before the Malawi border with Tanzania and is owned by Mike an old pommy with the usual faded "I love me mom" and anchor tattoo's on the forearms. We were sitting having a beer when I noticed a sticker on the fridge with Ewan and Charley on it. The owner immediately said that they stayed over at his lodge when they did their Long Way down trip. So where did they sleep, I asked? * http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sXjV...sXjVFzW-XL.jpg EWAN AND CHARLIE LEFT THEIR MARK The last two bungalows next to yours was the answer from Mike the owner of the lodge. I had to go look, I could not miss the opportunity to stand at the same place legends walked and slept, and as I stood on the deck of the bungalow I could feel their presence, it’s a hair raising experience, seriously it's spiritual! I felt my skill level increase just standing there, it was stronger than religion! And then I heard it, a soft voice said, "may the force be with you" The others said I was just drunk, but I know better. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-g3Nw...g3NwfMX-XL.jpg THE BUNGALLOW CHARLIE AND EWAN STAYED IN WHILE TRAVELLING DOWN AFRICA. GO THERE IF YOU NEED THEIR SPIRITS TO GLOW UPON YOU FOR MORE SKILLS http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-W6fz...W6fzbkP-XL.jpg * http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NCpf...NCpf8g5-XL.jpg THEY LIKE THEIR VIEWS OF THE LAKE EVEN WHILE THEY DOING THE LOO THING, BUILD THE LOO HIGHER. The place is a bit expensive but the food is good and the service you would expect from such an pricey establishment. I had to repair yet another puncture and Mike even offered to help. It seems quite a few bikers stay over with him. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KGnG...KGnGp3n-XL.jpg FIXING PUNCTURES AGAIN, TUBELESS, FFS, TUBELESS!! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RfWB...RfWBxvK-XL.jpg THIS IS MY LAKE, I AM THE BOSS, LIFE IS GOOD, NOW LEAVE ME!! http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CRQK...CRQKnWB-XL.jpg The next day on our way to the border we came across the birth place of a dugout. As fascinating as it may seen a boat carved and chiseled out of an entire tree. The sad part of this is the fact that's another old tree falling and currently Malawi is running out of old trees as most are being used for dugouts. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qvGb...qvGbDzW-XL.jpg MALAWI LAKE DUGOUT The prices of dugouts are also on the increase. I had a chat with some of the locals and asked whether we can help them look for better priced boats they can use that is cheaper to run and maintain and is environmentally friendly than the current option, as its unsustainable. It takes them around 2 months to complete a dugout and will according to type of wood sell from 250USD to 500USD per boat. |
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