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Quit my job... gone riding through the Americas
Hi there,
I’ve said, that’s enough. And so I am off. 20 Countries. 40,000 miles. 18 months. Let’s do this. *This is my introduction. Like all of my posts, I plan for all of these posts to be “two-track.” I’ll post up a “cliff notes” video as well as a more detailed writeup. Here’s the cliff notes 5-minute video if you prefer not to read or are pinched for time: And here's the writeup: My name is Brent Carroll and I am from Chesapeake, Virginia. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...t%20Sign-L.jpg I am taking on North, Central, and South America on my motorcycle, solo. I left Virginia at the end of April, 2016 and intend to share this trip with you in words, pictures, and videos. About me... I have always had a passion for adventuring and seeing the world. While I have been lucky to travel all over the world and see it from above and below in the Navy and on vacations, I have not experienced it from a motorcycle. I feel I have missed the people, the culture, and myself in previous journeys. More importantly, perhaps, is I have never had the feeling of control, being in charge of my own time. That is what I am seeking. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0411-L.jpg First, after a fine career in the Navy for 20 years, and then working as a civilian for the US Coast Guard for almost nine years years as an engineer, and finishing my PhD, I feel I have worked hard, and cared deeply about the people that I worked with and the work I did. I am just 47, but... I want to see and experience the world in a new way while I can - which means NOW! My Dad passed away when he was 51! That alone is enough motivation for me to realize life is too short. When everything is said and done, I also want to point back to some chunk of my life that was completely under my own terms, doing what I want, going where I want to, truly getting to know the world in which I live, and not worrying about... anything, really, and not waiting until retirement or when I am not physically able to do this. I strongly feel the urge, and need, to do this now, to see the world for what it really is. So... having said that, and perhaps the more "pure" reason I want to do this is that I believe that the world is full of good, purposeful, and striving people, and that everything we hear distorts our world perspective in really negative ways. I want to challenge that really negative dogma and share my experiences with the world on this blog and in social media. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...240010-2-L.jpg Erstwhile, I have come to know that riding a motorcycle is the purist form of therapy possible, and that you get to see the world while riding all the better. You get feelings, sensations, smells, and experiences riding a motorcycle you simply cannot get on a vacation or in a car. You are not watching the scenery go by, you are in the scenery. I am an engineer and I like to attend to every detail if I can, so here and throughout, I might seem anal, but that is just me - I like attending to details. What this really relates to for you and my story is planning. As much as I'd like to just point the motorbike in some direction and then crash after a long day's ride (find a place to sleep, that is) wherever I can, I like to plan ahead a bit. I'm sure at some point, I'll find some happy medium between meandering and planning. Any-hoo - I left Virginia in the spring of 2016, and plan to first travel north to Newfoundland, cross Canada, head up to Alaska, and then follow generally the Pan-American Highway in its entirety all the way south through Patagonia to the southern tip of South America. And then... turn around and head back to Seattle. I think I will cover about 40,000 miles with my meandering. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...L/Selfie-L.jpg So, how can I do this? Yes, that's also a common question. No, I am not independently wealthy. How can anyone walk away from a good-paying job and all their possessions and venture out into the world on their motorcycle? For me, well... I retired from the U. S. Navy so have a lifetime annuity that essentially covers my trip. I also have savings, no debts, and a wonderful better-half who understands and supports my dreams. I am probably unique in this way. But, I do plan to land in Seattle once this is all done and resume a productive, working life. But for now, I just don't want to worry about that. So, off I go. I do have a few generic, overarching goals for my trip, though: Live life - see, smell, and suck in all that the world has to offer - take my time Meet and chat with as many people as possible; capture and share my thoughts about those experiences Average no more than 125 miles a day (to rest, to see sights, to smell the roses, to reflect, and to document) AVOID Interstate highways when I can (I think you should, too---that's not the world) Average less than $50 per day in costs, covering fuel, lodging, food, and bike maintenance Tent camping mostly, then hostels, couch surfing, AirBnB, and last, hotels I really do hope that you keep in touch and say hello. I’d love to catch up with you along the road or trail. Brent |
Have a great trip Brent! I hope the HU Virginia sendoff made you feel very welcome in the HU Community!
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Hi Grant,
I'll claim, and write about in full detail eventually, that several inspirational characters took part in my motivations for *doing* it. But, I will always want you and Susan to know, and I will always espouse, that you two started it all for me - you gave me my "seed." Thanks mucho! See you in Bracebridge hopefully! ~brent |
Hello Brent,
I have for sure you are absolutely right in meeting your goals in this personal journey, which I personally believe it will be fantastic. I live in São Paulo, Brazil and I have some expertise traveling in motorcycle through some countries like Uruguay, Argentina, Chile, Peru and Bolívia. These are amazing places and I think you gonna have good times visiting them. Well, I also noticed you are planning to visit my country. I don't know if specifically my city, but, anyway, if you need any kind of support, please, contact me (I could send my details through the email link in your website). I wish you the best and take care. Roger |
Look forward to following your trip, amazing continent full of amazing people, If you are in Argentina at the right time try to get to the HU meeting at Vierdma :mchappy:
Gino |
Woooohooooo I am in for the long haul my friend - Heading up via NY?
D.L.C.L. @motopoet www.themotopoet.wordpress.com Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
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~brent |
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D.L.C.L. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
G'day Brent,
Good luck with your journey, I'll be following with envy and interest! |
OMG, I have so much to share. I've been on the road for 30 days now, finally making my way from Virginia to Newfoundland! It's been AWESOME!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0524-M.jpg This photo was taken today at L'Anse aux Meadows in the northern most part of Newfoundland. Here, the first Vikings landed in the Northern Hemisphere over a 1000 years ago. And yes, there were ICEBERGS!! It was close to freezing on the ride up from Gros Morne. The only thing that hasn't been awesome about Newfoundland is the Internet. Newfoundland has it, but it is slow and spotty. I have another blog post queued up and ready to go once I get some wifi that will support an upload over a meg. :( |
Leaving for my trip ended up being a lot harder than I thought it would be. Jeez, really, 18 months on the road! Are you mad??
As always, if you prefer not reading my dribble, here’s the cliff notes video (about 11 minutes): Well beyond being completely exhausted from countless trip preparations, including weeks of 12 hour days attending to the million details of getting out of the house, I had to say goodbye to my love and puppy. It was a cool, grey day, which aided in creating a bias toward the bitterness of saying goodbye over the sweetness of finally setting off. I also recall being very nervous that something unforeseen would happen in the final hours that would delay or cause me to cancel my trip, which only added to my uneasiness. But, I finally put the key in the moto, it came to life, and I rolled out. I was finally off!! I planned my trip so that the first few weeks I would meander around Virginia and North Carolina, visiting with family and friends. Primarily, I did this to see family and friends, but I also wanted a little cushion in time before heading north where the threat of snow and ice still peppered the forecasts. My first stop was close by to say farewells to my coworkers. I was very thankful for their encouragement and interest during my trip preparations. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0282-M.jpg The U. S. Coast Guard is a great outfit, full of wonderful people, and I was happy to have had the opportunity to help them wherever I could over the last nine years. Leaving there, my next stop was the Horizons Unlimited Travellers Meeting in Appomattox, Virginia for a long weekend. It was at this meeting a year ago where the idea for my trip was born. I know there are lots of rallies out there, but I wouldn’t really call this a rally. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li....54%20PM-M.png The central theme of HU meetings is overlanding, and the people who attend have either taken epic or cool trips, or are interested in doing so. The four-day weekend is filled with a mix of presentations about adventures completed or in progress, and seminar-type demonstrations and discussions covering the gamut of adventure motorcycling from packing to changing a tire on the road. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li....23%20PM-M.png The best part, for me, was meeting and chatting and learning first-hand from others, about their motivations, and about their challenges and triumphs. I met several folks that I am planning to see again down the road. While at the meeting, I visited the McClean House in Appomattox. What is that? Well, that where the surrender that ended the Civil War was signed. Huh? If you’re like me, I thought the surrender was signed in the Appomattox Court House. Nope. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0300-M.jpg However, the surrender was signed in the village of Appomattox Courthouse. Back in the 1800s, towns or villages were often named by their prominent feature, in this case Appomattox Court House was in the village of Appomattox Courthouse, but the surrender actually was signed in the McClean House in the village. Mind. Blown. The big difference I noted after leaving this meeting was I wasn’t returning home. My moto is now my home, I had to remind myself. This brought up all kinds of strange feelings, like, wow, am I really doing this? Can I do this? For 18 months??? I was nervous again. Heading south, I was to pass through Mt. Airy, NC so decided to visit my Navy Officer Candidate School roommate, Van, and his wife, Jenny. Hard to believe it’s been 21 years since I was commissioned in the Navy, but seeing him was like having seen him yesterday. Van retired from the Navy, too, and is now a farmer!! https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0321-M.jpg For you TV aficionados, Mt. Airy was highlighted in the Andy Griffith series as Mayberry, and there are signs of the show all over the place. Turns out, the show remains part of the tourism in Mt. Airy. I made sure to stop by Pilot Mountain on my way out of town (or Mt. Pilot!). https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0327-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li....53%20PM-M.png I then headed to Mother’s house in NC and spent a few days there visiting her. She was excited for me, but mostly she expressed her fears for my safety in all those “dangerous” countries. It is precisely this sort of dogma that I want to talk about during my trip. Personally, I think with good planning and some homework, you can travel safely. I also think the world is full of thriving, striving people who are no different than us in the U. S., and that any problem one can point to in another country happens right here in the U. S., too. We, through the habits of our lives in the U. S., have figured out how to deal with those problems here. It’s figuring “it” out as I go along that is THE adventure in my mind. So, after calming her fears a bit, and enjoying my Mom’s amazing cooking, I headed into the Smokies for a night of camping before meeting up with an old grade school chum, Keith. My Mom can cook!! https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0562-M.jpg He chose the Casino in Cherokee as our meeting place, a place where he is treated like visiting royalty (and by association, me, too!). I made it plain that I had no intention of gambling any of my travel money, so Keith gifted me $500 that the casino had given him! Something about “priming the pump” for the high rollers amongst us, haha. Well, it took me no time at all to lose that money, and I did so without even a tinge of guilt, nor any inclination whatsoever to reach into my own wallet. We had a good time, eating and drinking to our hearts content (all on the casino, of course), and enjoyed just hanging out watching Keith win, and win, and win. Lucky bastard! Next up I met my good friend Ricky from back home, who rode out to Maggie Valley, North Carolina, for a weekend of riding around some amazing roads, including roads with some cool names: Tail of the Dragon, the Cherohala Skyway, and the Rattler. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0355-M.jpg I had ridden the Dragon several times, but this was my first riding the Rattlesnake. Turns out, the Rattler is far better in my opinion than the Dragon, longer and more twisties, so if you’re up that way make sure to check it out. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0366-M.jpg When I said farewells to Ricky after a great weekend, I had planned to visit a friend in Black Mountain, near Asheville, who had offered up free accommodations. When my schedule shifted, it turns out she’d be diving in Roatan during my stopover, but she still insisted I take her up on her offer for a couch at her house. This is where I met David, her beau. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0402-M.jpg David’s a really cool guy with an amazing life philosophy that roughly equates to simply living your life and not worrying about anything or how anyone else is living theirs. To be 69 (can you believe that?), his daily meditation appears to be paying off! We took a hike to some nearby falls, which was a good diversion from the long days of riding the previous few days. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0410-M.jpg That night, David made dinner, which included Dolmas – seasoned rice wrapped in grape leaves and soaked in olive oil. Wow, these things were delicious! I spent the next few days camping in Lake Norman State Park just north of Charlotte. I really needed some alone time as the trip so far had my head spinning. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0428-M.jpg It turned out to be just what the doctor ordered as I relaxed and did some hiking. I also did some beer drinking, which is a big no-no in NC State Parks. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0433-M.jpg I was given a gentle warning from one of the rangers and then was paranoid for the next day… I did see a critter or two hanging about, though, and we exchanged WTF looks. The next few days I holed up at my Brother’s house in Indian Trail, just east of Charlotte. Turned out to be a pretty good family gathering, so we smoked up some ribs and brisket. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0608-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0603-M.jpg I’d developed this routine of going through my stuff and ferreting out those things I simply did not need. In the end, after four or five iterations, I’d easily dumped about 25 pounds. Mainly, a huge bike lock chain, disk lock, tripod (swapped for smaller one), and too many clothes. The savings in weight was noticeable and the space I saved made packing and unpacking up a hell of lot easier. There’ll likely be more of these dumping scenarios. Before leaving Charlotte, Neale Bayley contacted me via my blog and wanted to meet. Neale, among other things, is an adventurer and writer, and does organized moto tours to such places as Peru. He also runs an orphanage down in Peru that he visits often. Check him how at nalebayleyrides.com. With just a couple of stops left on the family and friends tour, I left Charlotte and headed to Luray, Virginia to meet up with a friend from work with the Coast Guard. His hospitality and the beauty of the Luray are unmatched. A very hard working culture, with a pride to match, makes the area feel somewhat surreal. Everything is clean and in order and the family is the epicenter of the world. Afterward, I left Luray heading toward to a new friend’s house in Delaware, someone who contacted me via my blog and said he was taking a similar trip about the same time (minus the Canada and Alaska part). The day was one long slog, raining when I left and just kept raining the whole day. I eventually gave up after 5 hours and scooted into a passing hotel, thankful to be dry and warm. The next day, I finished what I set out to do the day before, and make my way to Patrick’s. https://photos.smugmug.com/Loving-Li...IMG_0462-M.jpg Turns out we booked the Darien Gap crossing on the Stahlratte in November for the same date! Well, I just had to meet this guy to put a face with a name. Patrick has a KLR fully kitted out and ready to go – he leaves in October. We swapped notes for hours on what stuff and routes to take, our expectations for each of our trips, what we’d like to see and do, how we’d like to travel, etc. Turns out we were a pretty good match and I look forward to seeing him again in Panama. Patrick also had built out a custom Beemer Café, which I thought was stunning! David treated me to an awesome dinner in town, then we returned to his house, chatting away the evening about adventure travel. It was a good visit. So, thus ended the 21-day family and friends tour through my home states. Next, I am heading northward for the real adventure and I have my sight set on Newfoundland! My lessons after three weeks on the road: 1) You will NOT need to carry as much you think. Now, I am not at some extreme minimalist, and the R1200GS can carry a lot. But, the improvements in handling you get with less load is noticeable, and the routine of unpacking and packing is SO much easier when you have less stuff. Keeping track of all your stuff as you explode into a hotel room and then repacking the next day is the number one concern you will have, so the less you have, the better. 2) Planning stops with family and friends is one thing. But, once that tether runs out, you are on your own to find places to sleep. I prefer camping, but sometimes after a long day of riding, I really want a nice, cheap motel to relax and shower in. I’ve found that planning days out in advance challenging, as one good day of rain will slow you down and then you risk missing a reservation. I’ll get there eventually when I am brave enough to just ride until I am tired and find a place behind some bushes, but I am not there yet. I also found times when I wished I could hang out a day longer, but because the anal engineer in planned out the next day somewhere else, I had to move on. I have to work on this. 3) I am WAY over budget so far, which was supposed to be just $50/day. Even though I spent roughly half the time on the road camping, even that is more expensive than I like. Camping runs $25-30 a night, then you throw in that day’s gas, some beer, some food, and if you want a fire, wood, then you’re quickly at $60-65. And the days that I do stay in a hotel, the total is over $100/day. Oooof! Then again, I knew I’d be over my budget in the U. S. and Canada, but not this much over! I know down the road as I travel south from Mexico, things will get cheaper, but I really need to be careful here in the beginning. I also need to get west where I can wild camp more often – too many fences in the east. 4) Connectivity. In most places I’ve camped I had no connection to the world. I do have a DeLorme, so I can send and receive text messages if I need to, but not spending hours on the web has been, well, quite refreshing. Logging into Facebook every hour or every four days turns out to be the exact same stream of stuff. More lessons to come I am sure. |
Great updates! I'm glad you are able to do that great trip of a lifetime.
I have ambitions to do a 'big loop' around South America some day - but I think that someday will be after I retire at age 55 and start collecting my pension. :| |
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You're doing great Brent! :thumbup1:
Good early lessons on packing light! A big deal. Perhaps ease up on exact planning / tight schedules .... once in Latin America that will all to out the window anyway. No worries, let it flow. BTW, how's your Spanish? I'm sure they taught you Spanish in the Navy, yes? :cool4: Basic language skills really makes a happier trip, avoids problems, makes friends ... and saves money too! But even with good Spanish it may hard to convince the Hotelier in Guatemala that you need "a deal" and his room rates are too high when he observes your $20K USD Beemer. :innocent: I was never able to camp in Cent. America. Too dense with people, did not seem all that safe. Parts of S. America more opportunity especially S. Chile/Argentina. Camping shortens your riding day and adds work at end of long riding day. But some camp grounds are worth a few days ... so you can go that way too. Camping can also set you apart from local people (Wild Camping) and robs you of discovering local cuisine and culture you may find in towns and cities. Just my opinion. Lots of ways to go on this! A lot of the food is crap, but there are always jewels to be uncovered ... once you know how. !que le via muy bien! bier |
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So, I took Spanish way back in school, so some of it was still bouncing around in my head. But, I ended hiring a tutor for 6 months and using Duolingo everyday. It is my hope to be pretty fluent once I cross the border. And then I plan to do a couple of weeks homestay school, perhaps in La Paz, Baja Sur. Camping, yeah, I've heard that it's tough, but totally doable. A couple I follow did a lot of camping through CA/SA and lived to write about it extensively, so I am using them as a crutch. iOverlander has proven provide useful, too, for finding spots. Thanks for following along! ~brent |
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