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Paris to Milan, the long way - my first 'big' trip
So a while ago, I'd posted on the 'Europe' sub-forum here on Horizons Unlimited to gather others' opinions on whether someone with only a year's experience riding would be ready for a 'big' trip from Paris to Milan (about 1600km in all). The responses were all wonderful and encouraging, so I thought I'd go for it (thanks everyone!). Well, it turned out that my 5 day weekend could be extended to a full 9 days (two weekends and a work week). So, I decided to change plans slightly. The idea was still to go to Milan, but take the long way around and explore some other parts of France.
I started reading around for places worth passing through on the way, and my first lead was the Gorges du Tarn (thanks to Magnon and Caminando on the forum for the tip!), and from there, the Gorges du Verdon, then the Côte d'Azur and finally Milan before heading back. Here's a map of the whole trip to give you and idea (pins represent sleep overs, coloured dots represent main stop-overs to visit). http://wanderlustonwheels.com/wp-con...010/11/Map.jpg So, now the trip is over and it's been a week since I've been back to Paris and it's about time I share my experiences. In all, my original 1600km trip turned out to be twice as long, but it was an AMAZING trip. I was very fortunate to have had the opportunity to go for it, and, as it turns out, very lucky with the weather. Before I get on with the full report, here's a list of things I learned along the way: 1) I love mountains. It seems funny to see it in writing, but I never experienced high ground like this before. Whereas the sea always held a special place in my heart, it’ll have to make room for mountains. 2) Always be prepared, but don’t over-prepare. Whatever happens, it can be handled, it’s not worth it to worry about every tiny detail. 3) “Everything is biographical, Lucian Freud says. What we make, why it is made, how we draw a dog, who it is we are drawn to, why we cannot forget. Everything is collage, even genetics. There is the hidden presence of others in us, even those we have known briefly. We contain them for the rest of our lives, at every border we cross.” — Michael Ondaatje Yes, I can stand on my own two feet, but I will never forget the people I met and everyone who supported me along the way. 4) Never judge a book by its cover, nor a bike by its size. I didn’t think I’d go far comfortably with the 250, and people thought I was crazy for trying. But others have circled the world on smaller bikes than mine so I was silly to think it couldn't be done. It’s not about the size of the dog in the fight! 5) One thought I had several times throughout this trip it was this: “What if this is the last beautiful thing I will ever experience?” As you can tell, that statement is bitter sweet. However, the Earth is huge, beautiful and inspiring. I have to remind myself that I only saw a fraction of what it has to offer. There’s a well in that desert, and I’m going to find it. So, for the next week or so, I'll be writing up about my trip and sharing videos, road maps and photos I managed to take along the way. Hope you enjoy it! |
Last august I went from west France to Milan via Albertville and Pussy joining your route near the exit of the Mont blanc tunnel in Italy. From Milan, I headed north into the alps again and crossed over to Austria on my way to see the 'flytrap' in Poland.
I too am unused to mountains, but got my first taste on a trip to the Pyrenees 6 or 7 years ago. As they say any bike will do it, you just have to accommodate its and your limits. Glad you had a good time. a photo list of my trip is here Index of /bike/larry regards. |
I can't wait to hear more about your trip. I have only just started to ride. I am still on a 125cc until I take my test, hopefully by the end of this month, weather permitting. I have a BMW F650CS waiting for me to ride when I have passed.
I am hoping to go either to Iceland or, if this isn't practical this year, to ride through France to the Pyrennes and go riding with my boyfriend. He is an experienced rider so I will have all his years of travelling experience to help me through! |
Hi guys, thanks for the replies. It's funny you both mention the Pyrennes; I want to ride to Portugal and back in May and will likely want to pass through the Pyrennes, it's on my ever-growing 'To Go' list :)
oldbmw: Thanks for sharing the photos of your trip, gives me some ideas for rides around France. Where was the photo of the castle ruin taken, inear Pussy? It looks amazing! Sally2010: Best of luck on passing your test, you're in for a great time, i can assure you :) If you happen to pass through Paris on your trip, let me know! Ok, so here goes the next installement :) |
Heaven and Hell (days 1 and 2)
It was Saturday, October 30th, and I had every intention of leaving home early. Well, the intention was there, but sadly not the execution. Instead of 9a.m. as I’d hoped, I ended up leaving Paris at 12p.m. Couple this with a failed attempt at installing a cigarette lighter on the bike (yes they exist and they usually work, but it was to charge the GPS on the road), I was beginning to feel nervous about this trip. What was I thinking, doing this many miles alone after only a year riding?? Eventually I calmed my nerves, bit the bullet and set off anyway; whatever might happen, I’d handle it.
I had thought I would stop over in Orléans and Bourges on the way down to Clermont Ferrand. Fast forward several miles down the highway I realise there wouldn’t be enough time to stop over at Orléans, so Bourges was my first official stop (by this I mean not including stops for fuel and breaks at gas stations). Although the stop was a quick one, I saw enough to satisfy my curiosity. Bourges is quite a large city, but with several small old streets and picturesque pockets here and there. I decided to pass by the impressive St. Étienne Cathedral while in town. It was amazingly sunny and the park next to the cathedral was dressed in beautiful shades of green and yellow. I put together a few pictures below to show you the awesome colours that day: After an hour or so I set off once again. Around night-fall, I could notice the dark outline of the volcanoes of the Auxerre in the distance (sadly didn’t see these in the light). Just before it began to rain, I made it to the house of my first host; Claire. As with all the people I’d met along the way, it was lovely meeting Claire and getting to hang out with her and her friend in C. Ferrand. One of the best things about this trip was, of course, the people I’d met along the way who made me feel extremely welcome. Claire was no exception! After dinner, the three of us went to check out the city centre. C. Ferrand is a very dark place; a lot of the buildings incorporate a dark volcanic stone which turns black after it rains. I personally found this feature interesting but, understandably, some of the locals find it pretty depressing. The ash-coloured cathedral was especially beautiful but scary-looking enough to belong in a Disney movie. Despite its sombre architecture, the city was more lively than I expected, and apparently well known for its many music concerts. I also learned that C. Ferrand is apparently the ‘Cannes’ equivalent for short films. The ‘Festival International du Court Métrage’ is held there annually, and each year hosts several films from one foreign country (I think it was Norway this year). If you’re a fan of short films, it might be worth visiting! After the tour and a beer at the ‘one song concert’ (we were very late) Claire and I head back to get some shut-eye before the next day. In the morning, I had everything packed , said my goodbyes to Claire and set off for Florac in the Cévennes. On the way down, couldn’t believe how lucky I was to be greeted by the sun. The highway wasn’t as boring as most tend to be, and there was some nice countryside scenery along the way. My cheerful attitude, however, disappeared progressively as the journey rolled on. The sky went from clear, to patchy, then slightly overcast by the time I reached St. Flour. The somewhat picturesque town of St. Flour sits on a large hill, and from the bottom you can see the tips of the towers of the town’s cathedral. As it was Sunday, the town was completely dead, with hardly a soul around. I snapped some shots of the cathedral before I started feeling the patter of raindrops. Nothing kills my mood faster than bad weather on a ride in a place I’m not familiar with. Luckily I brought my rainsuit with me, but was too stubborn to put it on until I’d been thoroughly pissed all over by the sky. For those who have never tried putting one on, I advise you to go to the disabled toilet where you’ll have enough room to flail about helplessly, while trying to get this giant plastic monstrosity to fit (especially in wet leathers). Once I arrived in the Cévennes, it felt like the sky had ripped open and the rain just kept pouring and pouring. I tried to follow the instructions on the GPS (too wet to get the map out), and of course got extremely lost, in some desolate area, with nothing and no one around. At least I got to see some nice small forest roads along the way, like this one: http://wanderlustonwheels.com/wp-con...ermont-FD3.jpg After following a steep, wet and winding road along the gorges (which I later found out to be the N106) I finally arrived at Florac, soaked and miserable. I had to wait a little before meeting my hosts, since I’d actually arrived early (despite getting lost). Once I made it to the right address, I was greeted by Julie and Vincent, who brought me inside and finally out of the rain. After a hot shower, dinner and a friendly chat, I went straight to bed, not overly enthusiastic about the day to come. I was disappointed that my first major stop would be cursed by bad weather. Little did I know what was in store. |
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