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Texas Y'all (2)
Luchenback TX is famous AND quirky
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psccc1e8ec.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps17b151a4.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps38122865.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9824f6d8.jpg With priority parking for motorcycles http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse9c8e31b.jpg But it was outdone by Allan and Debbie Johncock at the Lone Star Motorcycle Museum with his collection of mostly British bikes http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9762167d.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps009bc6d9.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps68e15114.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse272acf2.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf8e9cb9a.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps97a8f434.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps522a7f2a.jpg Big Bend National Park beckoned http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse046fced.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps18392904.jpg Followed by a weekend of adventure motorcycling in Terlingua http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps813489df.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2153825c.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbe1624d3.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5df22296.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb889349f.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6c939750.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5892e7b0.jpg The road to Mexico was one of the best rides I had in Texas although a little rain was around http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps67eae215.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps596701a4.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps067a015a.jpg No photos of the border crossing but the roads in Mexico are a bit rougher but no less inviting http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc5f9b9de.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psaa2d3ae8.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psda07ed7a.jpg Now I am in Mexico and my adventure really begins as I head to Copper Canyon. |
Story of a Border Crossing - USA to Mexico
Thanks to the start of daylight saving I was actually ahead of time having left an hour earlier than I thought from Terlingua, getting to Presidio at about 10.30am. Over a large brunch and several coffees, I decided that I would cross into Mexico today rather than getting a motel from midday as there didn’t seem to be a huge amount of things to do in Presidio. I gathered my paperwork, passport and cash to enter Mexico, and I was feeling quite nervous. Most of the way through the US I was told to be very careful in Mexico and although I have always looked forward to getting there, I guess the constant warnings had got in a little. Still, I have always felt no fear, but excitement about riding in Mexico.
I rode towards US border control and stopped to wave at the camera. There was a tiny booth with reflective windows and nobody came out. I waited a moment then another car came up behind me so I had to continue over a large bridge and voila, I was in Mexico. Now the problem with it being so easy to leave the US is that my Australian bike has a temporary import permit that requires stamping when I leave the US to prove that I have left. I rode into the Mexican border control where I had to stop and open my bags for checking, a cursory search really. They were more interested in the motorbike and my lack of Spanish. ‘You do not speak Spanish?’ ‘No’. ‘You do not like to speak Spanish?’ ‘Yes I would love to speak Spanish but I’ve just arrived and I hope to learn here.’ ‘Que?’ The next ten minutes were spent looking at the bike and talking about all the bits, calling over the other guards to tell them about it and amazement at riding all the way from Australia…sort of. I lied about riding all the way across the Pacific Ocean. I was directed to a parking area where an attendant directed me to a parking spot. He took me to a nearby building where I had my passport stamped. I was directed to a short line of people and waited for forty-five minutes while the slow process went through one person at a time. This was the line for motor vehicle entry. I had done my homework and had the right papers, the correct money and I was done in a little over five minutes once at the window. I paid a deposit of $300 for a vehicle built between 2001 and 2006 ($400 for post 2006) then a $51 entry fee. I get my deposit back when I leave Mexico. I was through customs, I was in Mexico and it was only 1.30pm. But I had two things on my mind. I still hadn’t stamped my bike out of the US and I was told firmly by other travellers that I need liability insurance for Mexico. A hundred metres down the road was an insurance building so I went in and asked about insurance. The girl at the desk spoke perfect English so she was easy to discuss options with. The boss however had only part English and I didn’t feel like I was getting a good deal. The price seemed to be nebulous at best. I wasn’t happy to pay $250+ for 6 months insurance so I left, saying I’ll think about it and decided to return to the US to get my paperwork signed out. The line into the US was long and based on previous advice I rode to the front of the line three or four cars back, and was soon waved forward to a booth. I explained what I needed to do and this caused some confusion, so I was waved to a waiting area where I spoke to another couple of customs officers. They finally understood what I was doing and took me into an office, signed the paperwork and that was that…almost. ‘Have you had your immigration paperwork finalised?’ ‘Yes, no, what do you mean?’ ‘Follow me please sir.’ DOH! I was taken to another waiting room with thirty or so people sitting and waiting, but was taken straight to the counter with all my paperwork and the situation explained. ‘Take a seat sir, it won’t be long.’ After ten minutes another officer came up to me and explained that it was a change of shift and there will be about a half hour wait while they get organised. Great. Almost an hour later, my paperwork that was sitting on a desk in plain view of me but seemingly invisible to them, was finally picked up and I was called to the counter. ‘How long will you be in the United States, sir?’ ‘Just long enough to do a u-turn.’ I explained what had happened. ‘So you are going back to Mexico?’ ‘Yes’ ‘Be very careful there’ ‘Thanks, I will.’ He had a short discussion with his superiors about my situation and after another five minutes the paperwork was brought out and I was given the all clear. I walked back to the bike and started it up to cross the bridge into Mexico for the second time. It was 5.30pm in the US but only 3.30 in Mexico, or at least the state of Chihuahua where I was. I still needed insurance. Getting a bit bored of the time this had taken I went into the insurance company, bought six months at $50 cheaper than they had quoted previously and at 4.15pm I was stamped, insured and on my way to Chihuahua city to see what awaited me. |
Entering Mexico and into Chihuahua city
I had read and been told a number of times to get out of the border town between Mexico and the US and once twenty or thirty kilometres into Mexico it was much safer. I rode through the border town of Ojinaga and decided on the Route 16 that had no tolls. I wasn’t really sure of the distance to Chihuahua city but I had been told that the toll roads add up and I was keen to get on a smaller road. It was already getting late in the afternoon and I assumed there would be some small towns along the way so off I went, found my way to the 16 and headed into the hills. I posted some photos earlier.
I connected with a couple on couch-surfing.com I contacted them by email and arranged to get there on Sunday afternoon. After my time at the border, it appeared to be less likely that I would arrive in Chihuahua city by then. My US phone credit had expired, I had no Pesos, it was Sunday afternoon so I was unable to contact them again. The road continued on and I rose further into another range and as I got higher the sun became lower. The land was sparsely vegetated dry desert and the last of the sun’s rays were throwing shadows and shading on the slopes of the hills. I wound around bends to the right and the left, thoroughly enjoying the ride and there was no other traffic on the road, making it more special. However the light was fading and I still did not know how far I had to go to get to Chihuahua. I rode through several more ridges and valleys and finally I came to some habitation in the form of a scattering of houses and a petrol station. I needed to fuel up so I stopped and met some people, one of whom could speak English. He told me that it was only forty-five minutes to Chihuahua and if needed there was a closer town called Aldama, with hotels, but he suggested going on to Chihuahua. I took the advice but probably should have asked about accommodation nearby because ten minutes up the road was a sign saying 100kms to Aldama and 140kms to Chihuahua. By the time I reached Aldama there was still enough light to find my way to one of the hotels, commonly known as a ‘love’ motel. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb1a6507a.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1c72fef4.jpg For $15 it was a bargain and had a comfortable bed, shower and no smoke detector, so I was able to light my stove inside, boil some water and have dinner. Ziggy had a carport with a heavy vinyl curtain to give her privacy. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps58f266da.jpg I had heard about these motels as a good cheap way to have secure parking for the bike. The TV had five channels, four of which were snowy, poor reception channels and the fifth was clear as anything…porn! Without Internet, I had no hope of contacting Antonio so I turned in straight after eating and slept my first night in Mexico. The next morning was clear, chilly with blue skies. I only had forty kilometres to Chihuahua so once organized I rode west with the sun on my back. Troy from Texas had told me that every town has a centre plaza and it is a good strategy to ride into the centre where one could find banking, food, accommodation and more. I rode into the centre and missed the square and became caught up on some one way streets. I finally just stopped to look at maps and the only parking space was actually a taxi zone. A taxi driver walked up to me and I prepared to be told to move. Juan Antonio's face broke into a big smile. ‘Hello, where are your from?’ ‘Australia. You speak English.’ ‘Ah yes. From Australia. That’s great, what are you doing here?’ ‘Travelling. I’ve just started a three year trip around the world.’ ‘Around the world! All the way! How long have you been in Chihuahua?’ ‘I just arrived and I need to find some coffee, Internet and a bank.’ Juan Antonio showed me to a café not ten metres away, the 7.21 Café, and had a few words with the woman serving. She turned to me and asked in English what I wanted to drink and eat. She made the best cappuccino I had had since Australia. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdad9d722.jpg Hubby hogged the camera lens though http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0c5484ef.jpg Over the next three hours I found longer-term parking, ate, banked, bought a SIM card for my phone and did larger and larger circles away from the café to orient myself. Chihuahua isn’t a large city so it was easy to not get lost, and I found the main square! It is a modern city which seemed as western as anything in the US, but a bit Spanish as well. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps57c93874.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbc0b3c4c.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb42b1085.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps41f79bc3.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4188b5e2.jpg I phoned Antonio and explained what had happened and a couple of hours later he was able to get away from work and meet me in the city. I followed him home, only about fifteen minutes in traffic and met his wife Norelise. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6bd36013.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfea61eba.jpg I spent three nights with them and on the second night a number of their friends come over for a beer and barbeque, nothing foreign in that, and we kicked on till 4am. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps695cc181.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1654aa36.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps47171fd1.jpg Much of the conversation was in Spanish and I was given the odd interpretation, but this was good for me to get my ear into the language. On my last day I was invited over to Norelise’s parents where I met them and her younger sister and they put on a huge lunch and they all fussed over me. Her mum Leticia was as excited as Norelise when she saw the bike later. Leticia said I was not just from another continent but from another world and called me an alien! http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2188ef69.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9040628c.jpg The next morning I said farewell and headed towards the area north of the Copper Canyon to see the sights of the area. It was the perfect start to my time in Mexico and I’m still humbled at the welcome and generosity I received from Antonio and Norelise. I had a call out of the blue from a journalist who wanted to do a magazine interview with me. Luis worked for a lifestyle magazine and was a friend of the people from 7.21 Café, so when he read about me on Facebook he made contact. We met about twenty-five kilometres north of Chihuahua city at a major toll station just after midday. We spoke for about an hour or so and then he said he wanted to do some filming of me riding. Another hour was spent on the bike up and down the highway with him hanging out of the car with his camera. We stopped for some lunch almost back in the outskirts of Chihuahua and another friend of his turned up, and he wanted to take some photos. We went back to the tolling station and they took all sorts of shots of me riding in different situations, even involving the toll booth officials who waived my toll (15 Pesos). After nearly five hours they said they had finished and I rode north along the highway. Unfortunately it was late in the afternoon and my destination I was told was two hours away, so I decided just to drive on until I found a motel. Luis promised to get in contact with some photos and video and I hope he does. |
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Good places to stay in Creel and Batopilas :-)
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Nice thread Paul, keep it coming!
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Mexico - Chihuahua State
I headed west from Chihuahua city and came across some Mennonite settlements. About 80% of the ground was ploughed in preparation for planting potatoes and corn.
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps82e3d84c.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6b91d92a.jpg It was a bit of a different world with all of the houses in 'campos' and all immaculately kept with similar houses. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb8198940.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa289dbfe.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps969ccbc9.jpg Made of a locally made brick http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psad70901b.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psef3c6127.jpg presumably made in these http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps63d141a1.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps374e3834.jpg Very agricultural http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1f7a7e27.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf83afee4.jpg Various Roman Catholic shrines appear along the roadway http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps96af6846.jpg Into the little Mexican towns there are roadside vendors. The oranges were delicious and the middle guy gave me one. He wouldn't accept payment http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1893197f.jpg The bigger towns have statues http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6fba5ad3.jpg Central squares...that are actually round http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4ae5a9a9.jpg And street scenes. The main street of Madera is under construction. Of course I found myself on it when I first rode into town. This was early Saturday morning so not many people around. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5ae24167.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6389b6cf.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa49c882f.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps72e0e6a4.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psae61c271.jpg Super Mario has a Mexican cousin surrounded by bimbos http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf8d3a273.jpg On the way to an archaeological site of the traditional Indians there was snow still remaining from two weeks ago http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa3576fd6.jpg It was a bit of a steep walk to the site but well worth it to see the 40 Houses http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psac6556c1.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd40475cf.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psda9c58f8.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1d312e6e.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc9c8ec12.jpg [IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/PaulNomad/Mexico/P1000763_zps757007e5.jpg/IMG] The guide gave a long and informed history in Spanish. I understood three words http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd940418f.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psed98601c.jpg |
Heading to Copper Canyon
After the 40 Houses site I headed to Basasearchi to see the well publicised waterfall.
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5edcb702.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc41682fb.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps46f55be1.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps40eef9e7.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa83e704d.jpg Met some friendly young Mexicans http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5484818b.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscca1aac3.jpg And some friendly bikers http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps118c1420.jpg One of whom was on this crazy Ducati with slicks http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps489c926a.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps70dec0a2.jpg Downtown Basaseachi http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps27a8de5d.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd00f65f2.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd05699a5.jpg And some local rocky roads http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps97638919.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscadc33d8.jpg This is a screen shot of the map of the road to take tomorrow to Creel. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc8ce78ec.jpg |
G'day paul ,its wet here so having the day off
Decided to catch up on your travels ,some great shots.although many are missing .Wonderful that you are getting such a warm reception from the Mexicans.regards Noel:D
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Great trip
Hi Paul,
I'm enjoying your trip and look forward to following your progress, especially with Cuba just over the horizon, well off the beaten track. All the best. Mark. |
Problem fixed
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Thanks Mark
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Basaseachi to Creel
The picture of the map of this road was everything it promised to be! There were bits of new road
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbaccb4b0.jpg But they seem to have a bit of trouble keeping the crumbly mountains in place at the side http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb6ff8fe6.jpg And it's easy to see where the next ones are coming from http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdae991b9.jpg And they are BIG! http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd9fa5076.jpg The road went for 90 kilometres and I was having so much fun on the twists I forgot to take photos! The scenery looked a bit like this http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psea85c12d.jpg I have some video but it will take me some time to get that processed. In the meantime I finished a video I made of the road to Basaseachi Falls. Be warned: there is a truck rollover and you can see where he slid sideways across my lane. I don't think it ended well for the driver. I know, I'm yet to figure out how to do sound... San Juanito was the next town where I stopped for lunch. Restaurant is a word open to interpretation in Mexico it seems. I knocked on the locked door that was opened by one of two elderly women sitting in what looked like a household kitchen. I was shown into the other room with four small tables where I ate a typically yummy Mexican meal. http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psecfeedc2.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6277069b.jpg The road to Creel was straighter so I didn't take any photos of it either. You can only take so many photos of straight roads! http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psccb6ff69.jpg This was the main street that met me http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps60dd11de.jpg I found a hotel that was pretty reasonable http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps689c8093.jpg Then went for a walk and met my first Chihuahua in Chihuahua...this is just before he bit my boot, angry :angry: little :censored: http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps46d9958b.jpg There are many uses for train lines...often the smoothest path from one place to another http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps97802ed5.jpg Then I discovered tourist street http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6d839348.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4b80d4cb.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa8bafac5.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps64fb02d3.jpg http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf05477eb.jpg Yes, that is chilly he is putting on the tomato sauce he put on my fruit salad! http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps63d08c33.jpg Tourist stores full of stuff http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse187fd1e.jpg Nice view from the basketball court http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps398c3e90.jpg and good old fashioned playground equipment like we used to have when we were still allowed to hurt ourselves as kids! http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8b7d0386.jpg When in Creel, visit long-time HU supporter and holder of local knowledge of the best places to see and ride - Ivan from The 3 Amigos Trails. He attended the 2004 HU meeting in Creel and is still here. He speaks English and is one of the few in town who does!! http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1fe5cacb.jpg For more details on the story, visit my blog below. |
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