Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB

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-   -   Mapless in Madagascar (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/mapless-in-madagascar-72316)

Tiffany 13 Nov 2013 20:18

back on line
 
Finally I can post again, there has been a problem with my computer which prevented me doing most things. And now I've lost the bottom line of things- and that's how I turn it off so this could get interesting.
anyway, a few more pics while I search to try and find the words to go with them

whoops, maybe spoke to soon, looks like I have to re-start the PC again

Tiffany 13 Nov 2013 20:56

Sea Crossing
 
It was time to leave the island which was when things went wrong, I lost the keys, Ok, misplaced- first time in 16 years of travel. And then I also have to admit there was a bit of a language barrier and we missed the proper ferry back to the mainland – it left at the unearthly hour of 4.30 and yet I’d been told it always goes at 6.30am.
This was our alternative boat
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7950-M.jpg
The one in the foreground, at least it's got life jackets.
And this was the one that Suzi would go in
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– an open sea crossing and they crammed a LOT of bikes into what they were treating as a vehicle ferry
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7935-M.jpg
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7938-M.jpg

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7937-M.jpg
We think we look great in our life jackets!
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7942-S.jpg
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7944-M.jpg
We overtook the vehicle ferry as it chugged its way across the ocean.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7947-M.jpg

We still feel it was an added bonus was that we made it safely ashore to the mainland of Madagascar, we could easily still be floating around the Indian Ocean.
and our luggage also made it (handy porter service)
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7948-M.jpg

As did Suzi and the mopeds
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http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7955-M.jpg
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And we were soon on our way
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Tiffany 15 Nov 2013 11:02

Oh Dear, RN5 with a Pillion Rider
 
What I had neglected to tell my erstwhile pillion passenger was that this alternative ferry would dump us on a desolate bit of coast with 30kms of sand tracks to get to any decent road surface
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0221-M.jpg
She took it in good spirit and when Suzi wasn’t able to carry the pair of us through the deeper sandy bits, the Librarian got off and walked!

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7965-M.jpg
Or ran!
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7962-M.jpg
For those of you who have been paying attention, I got her to run on this part as a re-enactment of an earlier pic from this section of sand.
I said "I'm Sorry" to her a lot. And if she could ride sand I would have swapped places with her
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7963-M.jpg
We ran into a problem with some fishing ropes- these stretch for hundreds of yards from the water across the beach and beyond.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7964-M.jpg
Luckily the librarian was behind me AND she has a loud voice as she was able to alert me before it became a problem.
A much needed lunch break at this spot
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Typical Madagascan fare, lost of fried things
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Something very dodgy looking being sold in the pink bowl wrapped in bits of old paper, we weren’t brave enough to try them
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7970-M.jpg
though we had a go at most of the food items
A river crossing or three on this route, all educational for my sister.
What’s known as a Double Pirogue in the business, fairly standard for bikes bigger than a moped, or so I was assured. The pirogues are tied together and the passengers get in one boat while the bike is in the other.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7971-M.jpg
I usually sit by the bike so that I can hold it steady if anything goes wrong
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7972-M.jpg

Back on solid ground...
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…or so I thought!
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I hadn’t approached this bank with enough revs and I paid the price.
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The best petrol station in town

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And then back on the road alongside the Indian Ocean with the opportunity to grab a quick swim on the beach
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Through a palm tree plantation, I’m not sure what kind they are.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7987-M.jpg

Our final picture together on Suzi
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7959-M.jpg
__________________

Tiffany 15 Nov 2013 11:13

She's Leaving
 
Madagascar - Land of the bright green geckos
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7990-M.jpg

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7992-M.jpg

We're heading back to civilisation
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A large boulder of rock being cut into pieces and sold at the roadside.
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Back in Tana, we unloaded the bike.
The Librarian had a go at riding Suzi,
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8012-M.jpg
and did well
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8019-M.jpg
Last street food- some of this sweet stuff, which looks dodgy but tastes nice
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We posed for our final pictures together– photos taken by an eight year old, hence the unusual angle.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8010-M.jpg
Then dodging the watchful gaze of the Gendarmerie at the airport car park (their uniform is identical to the one worn in France)
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Librarian does a last bit of re-packing (in the airport)
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8023-M.jpg
And she’s gone.
BACK TO SOLO TRAVEL
To say thanks to our host for the great hospitality, I clean his KTM bike
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http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8030-M.jpg
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The finished product - even Thelma never looked this clean
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8033-M.jpg
And then relax with a cold beer and an email session on the computer,
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8037-M.jpg

troos 15 Nov 2013 11:17

:thumbup1:

Jamie Z 17 Nov 2013 10:50

So far so good.

Love the pics and I'm amazed at the number of water crossings. Are you doing that on purpose?

Jamie

Noel900r 19 Nov 2013 09:43

G'day Tiffany ,enjoyed your post as always.
Sam (Manicom) put a link on to facebook this morning of your(Radio) interview,i must say i enjoyed your frankness.I have to admit to wondering how you are able to afford to travel so much,makes me reassess what i'm spending money on.Do you think you sister will get behind the bars on her own bike in the future?
Anyhow you put life in my day,regards Noel:D

lorraine 19 Nov 2013 20:05

All Over the Map-with Tiffany!
 
Butting in on Tiffany's page here to let all her fans know of her Podcast interview up now at Lorraine Chittock. Just scroll down to her picture, click on the download link and VOILA!

Great and fun chat between myself and the Queen of Adventure Riding. bier

Tiffany 23 Nov 2013 11:34

Heading East without the Librarian
 
Ah, yes Lonely Coates they call me now.
Suzi pops into the workshop

Suzi was having a facelift before I left Tana
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8041-M.jpg

We'll be setting off east and Suzi is getting this fitted
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8039-M.jpg


a reappearance by Arsene the chef who also turns out to be a mechanic as he fits the larger fuel tank to Suzi and changes the colour scheme a bit.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8040-M.jpg
So Suzi and I apparently now have about 300kms range, which will be useful.

Heading out of Tana I pass the giant granite boulder which is still being chipped away

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8042-M.jpg

I can already see the difference from when I passed this way last time.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8043-M.jpg

and the green paddy fields stretching away- apparently Madagascar is the only part of Africa where rice is grown, I must admit I haven't seen fields of rice like this apart from Asia and err, Iran http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif yep, remember those pictures from a ride I did a couple of years ago?http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8045-M.jpg

Buildings change from scruffy concrete to mud

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8047-M.jpg

and there's still tarmac on the road

In Andasibe, I got roped into doing a jungle walk

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8062-M.jpg

this was a guy attempting to get a giraffe necked weevil down out of the tree to show us what it looked like

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8048-M.jpg

I won't bother doing all the far away shots, I had to take as we made our way through the jungle catching glimpses of them, here is one of them closer...but what is it...

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8067-M.jpg

They've got faces like a koala, no tail and yet they're a type of lemur

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8076-M.jpg


called an Indri


http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8075-M.jpg

Tiffany 23 Nov 2013 11:45

Did you say "on purpose"?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamie Z (Post 443847)
So far so good.

Love the pics and I'm amazed at the number of water crossings. Are you doing that on purpose?

Jamie

Jamie,
I'm as surprised as you are- I'm definitely NOT doing it on purpose as there are lots of delays, all the negotiations and then the actual reality of bobbing across a river, you and your precious bike- usually close to where it meets the sea, and as you know that is often the roughest and most unpredictable water. It makes you appreciate the infrastructure we have in the more developed countries- this harks back to a time when there were few roads and even fewer bridges, or bridges which have been washed away by cyclones..speaking of which...
Wait until you see what is coming up.

Tiffany 23 Nov 2013 11:50

Radio Stuff
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 444057)
G'day Tiffany ,enjoyed your post as always.
Sam (Manicom) put a link on to facebook this morning of your(Radio) interview,i must say i enjoyed your frankness.I have to admit to wondering how you are able to afford to travel so much,makes me reassess what i'm spending money on.Do you think you sister will get behind the bars on her own bike in the future?
Anyhow you put life in my day,regards Noel:D

Hi Noel
I'm still waiting to get a good enough Internet connection and time to listen to the radio interview- Lorraine and I chatted for quite a long time and I'm now wondering exactly what I said!
I'd love it if my sister got into bike travel- no one in my family even rides a motorbike, so none of that lot really understand although they've all had a pillion ride at some point.

Tiffany 23 Nov 2013 12:35

New Friends & Old
 
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8149-M.jpg

Bet you didn't know that Madagascar has crocodiles- so there I was thinking what a bonus it is to be able to camp in an African country and not have to worry about lions, when someone took me to see the crocs!
Must remember not to camp near rivers

and apparently these are just the small ones, look at this croc skin

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8154-M.jpg

someone else can do the maths, but I'm 5'6" tall

and look who arrived in town?
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_8159sm-M.jpg

It's Kim, the Korean guy on the Honda whom I last saw on the west coast a couple of weeks ago. Once more we're going in opposite directions but we had a couple of beers over dinner. And then in the morning he headed off into the jungle to look for Indri before heading into Tana where he returns his hire bike and gets his next flight onward to... well I can't think of a more extreme opposite to Madagascar at the moment, he's off to Icelandhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_8160sm-M.jpg

Good luck Kim. And no, don't worry folks he hasn't been travelling like that 0 it's just his day kit.
Another familiar face ( remember the flat tyre from a while ago?) I was passing through the same village and stopped to have a cup of tea with the family who helped. Antonio wasn't around but his Mum was, and she's carrying around a pic of Antonio sat on Suzi with my sister next to him
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_8162sm-M.jpg

I think she has got an eye on my sister being her new daughter-in-law! I tried pointing out that I'm the single onehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif


Mango season has started and my favourite fruit is everywhere and very cheap

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8157-M.jpg

and then down the road, just as it started raining I saw these guys and pulled over to see if I could help

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8167-M.jpg

Tiffany 23 Nov 2013 12:42

It Rained
 
Those blokes were simply out of fuel, and how pleased were they that I had stopped?!

They pulled out an old drinks bottle and had my fuel pipe off in seconds!

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8164-M.jpg


http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8166-M.jpg

back to their moped- amazed that I wouldn't take any money for the fuel they had taken
They headed off, with a cheery wave and...

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8168-M.jpg
squeezing on with the hatted one's sister and her basket of shopping which was somehow crammed in between his knees.

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8169-M.jpg

The rain was heavy and made the rest of the day a bit grim for riding, I eventually stopped at a town which promised beach bungalows by the name of Tropicana (oh those days of Wham), but it didn't look very tropical, even when the deluge had stopped pouring
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8170-M.jpg

Down on the beach they were bringing in the day's catch

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8172-M.jpg

Tiffany 24 Nov 2013 11:34

I Dropped Her
 
Whoops - wrong title and now I can't change it!

The day started peacefully enough, with watching this guy in the water, up to his neck in the lily pads

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8183-M.jpg

I'm not sure exactly what he was doing
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8184-M.jpg

Pulling up handfuls of roots and draping them over his makeshift raft.

The first river crossing of the day, with a mechanised barc

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8177-M.jpg


Watching what appeared to be the whole village in the water perilously close to the massive breakers
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8178-M.jpg

getting the fish in
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8179-M.jpg

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8181-M.jpg

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8203-M.jpg
Some dirt tracks (no tarmac for a while- or at least some days...no one ever seems sure) these were fun to ride

Then the first of the river crossings where the barc (barge) didn't appear to be operating

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8185-M.jpg

refreshments were on hand for those waiting

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8189-M.jpg
I was most disappointed to find that they had fish in them and so was she to find that I didn't eat fish as there were no other customers


However, there was an alternative to the barc

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8186-M.jpg

Yep, the good old double pirogue

although on closer inspection, this one didn't appear very seaworthy
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8187-M.jpg

I held my breath as they heaved Suzi onto it
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8190-M.jpg

Though actually, once we got going it didn't seem too bad

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8193-M.jpg
__________________

Tiffany 24 Nov 2013 11:39

I Dropped Her
 
Just to prove there are some bridges in Madagascar

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8199-M.jpg

It was a day of dirt and sand, the hours went by and the heat built up- I got tired and the inevitable happened

Suzi had a lie down

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8214-M.jpg

I had a few attempts at heaving her back up

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8218-M.jpg

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8219-M.jpg

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8220-M.jpg

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8221-M.jpg

In the end I had to take the bags off.

I liked the look of this burnt tree

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8223-M.jpg

The ultimate shadow puppet

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8227-M.jpg

The sand turned to dirt and I out on a bit of speed, I was hoping to reach a town for the night so that I could have a beer,

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8230-M.jpg

Note to self - I've got to stop pulling the Daisy Duck face when I'm riding

and then there it was, one more river to cross (I crossed four in total today, but I thought you wouldn't appreciate too many river crossings!)

http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8232-M.jpg

these guys just really didn't seem to know what they were doing. So I showed them pictures on my camera from other pirogue crossings and so they started to rope these two together
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8233-M.jpg

They went a bit more fancy than Suzi and I are used to, with large poles holding the two pirogues together


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