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Travelling
The rum bottle of engine oil strapped on the bike I said goodbye to the villagers, who waved me off as I left,
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8453-M.jpg I wasn’t surprised to find that just down the road was another ferry. There was a line of Lorries waiting on the far bank and I could see why, the regular barge ferry was obviously damaged and being repaired. In the meantime, any vehicle less than a ton (Suzi and I just about fit that category) was being taken across on a makeshift barge powered by hand using a rope attached to both banks. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8446-M.jpg In the picture you can see a pirogue- this one is paddled by a woman, only the second time I’d seen a woman paddling. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8445-M.jpg |
Many Rivers to Cross...
Back to tropical style vegetation, after the moorlands I'd been on for quite a while the previous day, I attempted a self-timed photo to cross this pipe and water obstacle
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8450-M.jpg Then as I rode it, two lads turned up and one of them kindly agreed to take a picture- there is often a fair amount of wariness amongst people I'm meeting in this isolated area so it's not a given that they'll take a picture. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8452-M.jpg mountains had appeared on the horizon. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8457-M.jpg I'd paused as this was another river to cross with a ferry, while waiting, my erstwhile photographer and his mate arrived and as a thank you for taking the photo I let them sit on the bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8454-M.jpg And in true teenage style, they took photos of each other posing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8455-M.jpg It's surprising how many people have got mobile phones, these have got cameras on them. I could have done with their help a bit further on; the river was deep, with a sinking mud feel to it. To be on the safe side I carried the bags through on my shoulder- it was quite a walk http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8463-M.jpg Which made me feel like an intrepid explorer making my way through the undergrowth with the water up to mid-thigh at times http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8465-M.jpg |
That's serious adventure! Did you meet Humphrey Bogart sailing the African Queen?:clap:
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Bogie Ahoy
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It Got Tough
And yet another ferry, the first of the chain-powered barges, where a wheel is turned by hand to power the boat.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8466-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8475-M.jpg As you can see my legs and boots are pretty wet from the river crossings. Water everywhere and a deceptive looking river crossing which caught me out, I had decided I'd get through it OK, but... Suzi’s back wheel bogged down. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8467-M.jpg Having removed the bags I returned to get her through, the following are a series of four pictures over 10 seconds which show how well I achieved my objective http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8468-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8469-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8470-M.jpg Or NOT!!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8471-M.jpg That’s correct the rear wheel has actually managed to sink further into the mud. Just as I was looking around for something solid to put under the wheel, a bloke appeared and gave me a hand, lifting the back end as I throttle the bike. Suzi’s rear wheel was suitably decorated after this episode http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8473-M.jpg That smile from when I was standing on the ferry- possibly the last time I smiled the rest of the day. It had begun to rain heavily, I was soggy and hungry, desperate for a rest, but the villages I was passing through were tiny with no facilities, and I began to regret not having asked “granny” for some of those home-made doughnuts at breakfast tea break in the morning. I stopped at a village where a guy was driving through in a 4 wheel drive, he spoke some English and was able to tell me that no one in the village sold food (this was a surprise because in the remote areas, almost everyone sells the food that they’re cooking this helps to supplement their incomes) The “shop” had one small packet of biscuits, three bottles of beer and a packet of noodles. I snapped up the biscuits and noodles, and hesitated over the beer- knowing that I needed calories but then realising that in the conditions I’m riding, the alcohol probably wouldn't help. I paid the shop woman to cook the noodles for me, meanwhile, having heard me asking for anything to drink that wasn’t beer, her son ran cross country to the nearest village and returned with a small bottle of coke – which was like manna for me. I sat in their hut, out of the rain and ate the noodles, feeling sorry for myself that there was only one packet and not wanting to waste any- as she had cooked them in a swimming sea of stock, I decanted the stock into my empty coke bottle before continuing. Apparently I was still 30 kms away from any village that would sell food. In these conditions 30 kms could take me a few hours the continuous rain slowing my progress as well as the stop start of removing the luggage when the rivers were too risky. I rode on, buying boiled maniocs at the next village and washing it down with stock swigged from the coke bottle. More endless rivers and dirt, more rain so I didn’t dare to take my camera out as the lens was getting wet each time. The sun started setting, I was looking out for a place to stay, not really wanting to get into my very soggy tent, still wet from last night, but then I reached a village where they said I was just 30 minutes from Fort Dauphin – the major town on the south coast. My spirits lifted at the thought of somewhere dry to stay and also the end of this terrible road. But it did mean riding in the dark, something I avoid doing as it’s so dangerous out here. Desire for a proper place to stay won out and I rode the final stretch at a very cautious 15 km per hour using my headlights to pick out the people, zebu and vehicles with no lights in the road as well as the large potholes and water crossings. What a relief when I saw tarmac once more and blimey, even streetlights. I stopped at the first hotel I could find, the cheapest rooms were up three flights of stairs, by which point I was almost weeping with weariness and a sense of having survived a tough undertaking. |
Tiffany that looks like a hard day!
Reading your issue with getting the rear bogged down even further makes me think of recent TV prog. There was a guy called .......well a guy called Guy, trying to do crazy things involving speed. One of which was to see how far he could ride a motorbike on water, seriously he did it for about 60metres ! ( no joke) Anyway he was trying to find out which tyre was best for the job and tried several, one of which was a knobbly just like yours on Suzi. It turned out that it was rubbish and actually pulled the rear of they bike down into the water instead of pushing it forward. Sound familiar? So you were probably doomed before you started on that one. I think the prog. was on Ch4 (UK) and may be worth looking at if you plan to return to as much water again in the near future, get some ideas, save on a few ferries.( as long as it is less than 60metres wide) :thumbup1: BTW well done getting it out- first time I did that, I dropped it ! |
Stunt Riding
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Route 7
I'm glad to hear you're safely back in the UK, and can't wait to read the account of your travels along Route 7 back to 'Tana. I have to confess that although I've been to all sorts of dodgy places, the route along Route 7 through the sapphire mining shanty town of Ilakaka was one of the most terrifying experiences I've ever had - and we were in a vehicle! The sight of 100+ machete-armed locals approaching the car face-on down the road was a bit cringe-inducing ... However, that was a while ago. Hopefully it's gotten better!
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Route 7
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Fort Dauphin
WHEW
Clean up day, first task to dry my wet stuff out, I draped it over the outside stairs and landing; luckily there were no other guests on this floor so I didn’t inconvenience anyone. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8477-M.jpg Fort Dauphin, the most southerly of Madagascar’s towns and a bit cut off as the road that leads to it from Tana and which is mostly tarmac is controlled by bandits and zebu rustlers – oh yes, there’s an easier route to take than the one I was on, but it goes down through the middle of the island and I’m trying to ride around it. At times as you may have guessed from the pictures, there were a few occasions when I felt that taking the coastal road was not one of my better choices in life. A chance to explore town, by far the biggest town I’d seen since leaving Tana a couple of weeks ago, it's a port and resort (by Madagascan standards) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8479-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8484-M.jpg The local council is apparently making a stand against corruption, their main action having been to install this box a couple of years earlier, it didn’t look very well used, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8478-M.jpg I wondered what it would be like to have something like this at the village hall where I live. Fort Dauphin is known for its surfing and so I eagerly headed down to what is supposed to be one of the main surf spots in Madagascar- to find that there were some good breaks but… no surfers, only goats http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8482-M.jpg No-one to hire or borrow a board from, so I contented myself with some bodysurfing keen to achieve the feat of having surfed in three Oceans and a Sea in four months (Atlantic, Pacific, Mediterranean and now the Indian) The goats didn’t think much of my performance and started to head off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8481-M.jpg a lack of sunshine meant I didn’t stay in long. As you may guess, I had a strong sense of achievement at having completed the long East Coast section with all its mud, sheer rock faces and extreme conditions, but the satisfaction soon gave way to some foreboding as I knew that I would be swapping the mud and rivers for the sandy tracks that cross the remote desert regions in the far south of Madagascar, this is what lies ahead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8554-M.jpg |
G'day Tiffany ,i trust you enjoyed Christmas and New year period .
I don't agree with the earlier post about traction in water/mud ,i can see the point if you wish to stay on top of water ,that a knobbie tyre would contribute to the breaking of surface tension ,but this only has an effect at high speed .i think for your purpose the knobbies are the preferred option. Anyhoo still enjoying very much your blog and look forward to more episodes. Regards Noel:D |
The Start of the Sand
I didn't linger long in Fort Dauphin, I had the long road west stretching away, a route that would take me through the Badlands - this is actually the only part of Madagascar that I had been warned about, for once everyone seemed to be in agreement, it's an area to be avoided. Ho Humhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/Norton.gif It's my only route out of FD because I'm definitely not going to go back up the muddy tracks again. I loaded up Suzi and headed off on a fine sunny day.
The track heading west took me through tropical plantations of strange looking plants - I think they might be Sisal. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8486-M.jpg To my relief, no sign of mud except some small patches like this one in the middle of a village where the local pigs were out and about enjoying themselves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8491-M.jpg and causing a hazard to traffic as they wallowed in the muddy road. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8492-M.jpg The soft deep sand took a while to get used to, and there was little other traffic- these guys were the only bike riders I met - they work for an NGO and were most surprised to see a woman riding a bike, AND coping better with the sand than they were! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8490-M.jpg Zebu were aplenty and mindful of the area’s reputation for zebu rustling and the gunmen who do it, I kept my eyes open. I was hopeful that the locals would not mistake me for a zebu rustler, but comforted myself with the thought that they’d realise I wouldn't be able to carry one far on my bike until I spotted this little guy and his mother http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8494-M.jpg So very cute and so young that his umbilical cord was still attached to him http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8495-M.jpg They trotted off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8496-M.jpg The zebu are a bit of a liability on the road, often they are just roaming free and have no road sense. I might not have seen many people on this trail, but I did see quite a few animals, including this fellow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8499-M.jpg A tortoise which was a bit camera shy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8498-M.jpghttp://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...itor/color.gif |
The South
While having a sandwich break in the shade of some trees I noticed these funny looking leaveshttp://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8500-M.jpg
on closer inspection turned out to be some sort of insects – David Attenborough eat your heart out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8505-M.jpgThe The sun started setting and another tortoise appeared, with striking geometric patterns on its shell. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8509-M.jpg Again this one was a bit camera shy as well. I didn't see any people, but passed quite a few tombs - nearly all with strange images on them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8510-M.jpg Some looking like the drawings of a child. The tops decorated with zebu skulls http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8513-M.jpg Having managed to cross the worst of the Badlands without any problems, I was trying to make it to the village of Beloha but the soft sand, long day of riding and my tiredness meant I was making slow progress. Looking out for a place to camp didn’t prove fruitful as I kept seeing huts off to the side of the track. Eventually I spotted a guy coming out of a small compound and asked him if I could camp there- he smiled and opened the gate. It was a bare looking place and I realised no-one else was around which felt odd, but selected a flat spot of ground and put up my tent, whilst Landry (he’d introduced himself) watched my every move with great interest. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8519-M.jpg Landry then brought over a rusty bucket of water from the well in the ground to have a wash, to be honest I felt too tired, but knowing that being clean is important to the people here, I used the water to wash the dust off. The locals strip and wash naked in the rivers but I kept shorts and bra on, as he squatted just three feet away watching as I washed. He then disappeared into the dark and I retreated to my tent for a dinner of processed cheese and crisp sandwiches. |
Desert Life
Early morning and I could see my surroundings more clearly, it actually looks more like a building site than a tropical part of Africa.
I used the rest of the water in the bucket to have a quick wash http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8517-M.jpg The cactus started to appear beside the track http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8523-M.jpg and my only company at this point are the birds, I came upon a treeful of yellow headed hammer birds who weave intricate nests http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8526-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8528-M.jpg The only other traffic I see apart from zebu carts are trucks like this one, a "camion-brousse", or bush truck, the only form of public transport which as you can see carry everything from people to commercial goods, somehow cramming it all in and on the truck. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8525-M.jpg The heat is intense and in an attempt to keep cool, I stop regularly to wet my gloves, t-shirt and also my trousers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8531-M.jpg Some respite in a village where the weekly market was taking place, people watching at its best as I sat in the shade eating rice and beans, and to my delight found a place that had semi-cold drinks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8524-M.jpg |
Ampanihy Village
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For some reason, I'd been feeling unwell most of the day and didn't want to push myself too hard on what is notoriously a "road" with difficult conditions. I was having regular breaks and stops when I could - parking up by the side of the road and eating mangoes- my favourite fruit and they were now in season. This lone cyclist passed during one such break http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8544-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8545-M.jpg I'd taken this picture as well to show that I was back in muddy conditions, thankfully not as wet as the east coast and also a very different colour. The sun was getting low as I arrived into a large village, the children gathered excitedly around my bike, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8540-M.jpg once I got my camera out, others started to arrive http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8542-M.jpg This was the biggest and grandest building I had seen since leaving Fort Dauphin two days earlier http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8537-M.jpg A surreal sight after the bare desert I'd been riding through, and also a surprise as my Lonely Planet guidebook described this particular village as "looking like it had suffered an air raid" - that wasn't the impression I had from the village and I wondered if the guidebook author had actually been there! An African sunset http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8534-M.jpg __________________ |
Market Day
Breakfast was served up by this smiling woman
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8549-M.jpg As usual, I'm not entirely sure what it is I'm eating but it tastes OK - some sort of tapioca cakes. The road is quiet - in fact so quiet I wonder if I'm on the right track, the only other person is this guy - the way he wears his shawl is fascinating - I haven't seen people dressed like this since staying with the Shuburu tribe in northern Kenya http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8547-M.jpg I catch up with this "camion brousse" which reassures me that yes, I must be on the right track. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8548-M.jpg I follow it into the village http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8551-M.jpg It's market day and pretty busy as people have walked in from miles around. Zebu carts jostle for space http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8552-M.jpg People swarm all over the bus as they unload it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8550-M.jpg |
Westward Bound
The road out of the village was fairly crowded with zebu and carts , all heading west
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8555-M.jpg The villages once again consist of simple huts http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8556-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8557-M.jpg I stop for a much needed break and refreshments, sharing the sole bench seat with this guy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8558-M.jpg It all looks quiet, but what you can't see from this picture is what stands in front of me, once more my every move is being watched and villagers have come flocking over to see the bizarre spectacle of a vazaha (foreigner) drinking tea. They packed in under the shelter for front row views! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8561-M.jpg The young woman in blue was particularly interested and could speak good french and so I offered her a go with my camera with this result... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8560-M.jpg |
Leaving the Badlands
Fuel stops had been scarce, so I was pleased when I found out that this guy sells petrol
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8562-M.jpg His wife was sporting the best Princess Leia hair-do I had seen so far this trip http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8564-M.jpg Her kitchen was quite a sight as well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8563-M.jpg I had a sort of stir-fry dish, unidentifiable veggies and noodles, with a dubious cold drink, and then, Suzi didn't want to start. I tried and tried, but she wasn't keen. I headed back into the shade to have a cold drink- except it was hottest coke I've ever had the misfortune to taste! The whole village was muttering about the sad state of affairs- the moto is broken "what is the vazaha going to do?" A bus pulled into the village with the usual heaving mass of humanity inside it and on the roof, the usual mountain of luggage, along with something that caught my eye http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8567-M.jpg I took a photo with the thought that if Suzi really will not start, I'll just have to tie her onto a bus like this- and I'll use the photo to show the guys how to do it. I'm not sure if it was the threat of such a humiliating scene for Suzi, but she immediately leapt into life at the next press of the button. I was pretty excited at this point as I realised I was getting to the end of the sand, and if things didn't get too tricky I might even make it to Tulear- the major town on the south west coast. the thought of a cold beer spurred me through the dust and sand. I paused only briefly to get a photo here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8569-M.jpg Yep, the Tropic of Capricorn, I'd been parallel with it for a while and now here I was crossing it- as a Capricorn I always get a thrill when I see these signs. I had crossed the Tropic on the east coast somewhere, but either the mud or the rain had obscured any sign - if there was even one there which I doubt as it's such a remote road. The road started to improve and to my surprise at the next river, there was that rarest of sights... a bridge http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8572-M.jpg Soon after that I reached the tarmac, I almost wept with relief- no more sand for a while and I was clear of the Badlands. I pressed on- virtually able to smell the beer... making it to the coast and a beachside table where I watched the sun set over the Mozambique Channel http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8573-M.jpg There's an almost indescribable feeling and mixture of emotions when reaching safety and civilisation after days of struggling through the intense heat and the sand. I felt as if this hard stretch had started weeks ago when I left the last bit of tarmac on the east coast, heading south. From here on I'd be riding north for a while. |
Coastal Capers
My relief at reaching the coast and knowing there was no more sand for several hundred miles was immense and so I had a mini-holiday to celebrate and for some much needed rest, I could tell I'd lost weight as well over the past few weeks.
Down to the beach I headed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8595-M.jpg And a ride in a zebu cart with a difference http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8582-M.jpg Yep, straight out to seahttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Incredibly they use the carts to transport goods and people to and from the speedboats. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8581-M.jpg sometimes going quite deep http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8580-M.jpg I stayed down the coast in a beachside hut http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8594-M.jpg once more there were very few tourists around. I walked, snorkelled and swam a lot. My favourite eating place was the Auberge Tintin, with a surreal fence made to look like crayons, where I would sit and drink cold beers until the mud wrestling became a distant memory http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8597-M.jpg |
Coastal Capers 2
Life is pretty simple in the villages along the coast, fishing and making boats seem to be the main occupations
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8604-M.jpg Boats are used for transporting most things as the roads along the coast are extremely poor or non-existent. This was an entertaining bit of sea cargo, some sheep and goats being off-loaded http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8602-M.jpg And then having to be dragged one by one to the shore http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8603-M.jpg The women have a yellow mud pack type mask that they apply to their faces to protect their skin from the sun and the elements, for once I was a bit too chicken to try it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8576-M.jpg At first they look more like zombie faces. It was time for me to get back on the bike, first the zebu cart to get out to sea http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8601-M.jpg then the speed boat to head back to Tulear http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8599-M.jpg my R&R were over and I was starting to get concerned about the wet season starting in the north - everyone was shaking their heads when I said that I had left the north until the end...it can't be worse than the east...can ithttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif |
Savannah Musings
Heading north and I was in for a surprise, the mud, sand and featureless dust had given way to African savannah
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8633-M.jpg It felt and looked like Tanzania, I half expected zebra and giraffe to appear, but they don't live in Madagascar. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8632-M.jpg The wildlife around here was mainly of the feathered variety http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8608-M.jpg I think the hawk was hanging around because someone had killed its mate http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8609-M.jpg and no, it wasn't me. I was about to have some company - other foreigners who didn't seem to think it was odd to be wearing black leather trousers in the tropical heat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8624-M.jpg A bunch of Italians - a nationality that is known for its chic sense of style. |
Diamonds Are A Girls...
The lizard showed me the way
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8651-M.jpg Not that kind of lizard, more the sort that lounges on street corners looking disreputable. I'd arrived in the gemstone-laden ares in the south west of Madagascar, the scene of countless documentaries and journalists' articles. I was riding along RN7, a major road, though the words major road should be taken with a pinch of salt over here, there was tarmac and that was about all that can be said for it. But instead of the bare countryside stretching away on both sides that I had become used to, there were long rows of gem shops, some of them gaudily lit up. The area has a dodgy feel about it- lots of get-rich quick schemes and even the lowliest person can find a fortune in the earth. After asking around- and having to approach some dubious blokes, I found a guy who leads tours through the sapphire fields, he invited me to tag along with his Italian group- who all nodded approvingly at my black leather trousers- not seeming to find it odd that someone would be wearing them in the Tropics. Feeling like stray recruits in the foreign legion, we were led to the mines http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8625-M.jpg The lines of men, shovelling the sand and dust by hand were a sobering sight http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8614-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8615-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8620-M.jpg I attempted sorting through the trays of loose stones and gravel in search of a sparkling blue gem. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8622-M.jpg Afterwards I was shown a tray of polished sapphires http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8629-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8630-M.jpg These stones earn a fortune for the gem shop owners but hide the reality of the poverty-stricken miners' families who struggle to live on the 5,000 Ariary wages they get for working. Less than $2 a day. I passed one of the villages on my way out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8627-M.jpg Sad scenes where little grows. |
Hill Country
After leaving the mines the landscape turned from sandy plains to rocks and hills
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8644-M.jpg I wanted to get closer to them - show me a mountain or even a hill and I'm pulling on my walking boots ready to explore http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8646-M.jpg With only the birds for company I headed off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8643-M.jpg (A Bee eater for any ornithologists amongst you) I reached the hills http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8645-M.jpg and found a hidden waterfall http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8652-M.jpg - an oasis to swim in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8673-M.jpg |
Village Life
I found a place to stay
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8640-M.jpg It has the most incredible setting http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8641-M.jpg I went out for a ride through the village and arrived at the local football match - every Sunday wherever you are in Madagascar there will be a game of football going on... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8637-M.jpg A free kick looks something like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8636-M.jpg I loved the pace of life and the friendliness in the village http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8680-L.jpg This boy definitely got the Cute Picture of the Week Award http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
Wildlife with Coates
Madagascan ladybirds...apparently
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8677-M.jpg The kids had been showing me around - I told them that in England the ladybirds have spots not stripes. I went exploring again http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8656-M.jpg and despite setting off pretty early, by 7.00am it was getting hot. Praying mantis - a female about to devour an ant, with a blood-thirsty look in her eye. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8647-M.jpg They're quite interesting insects, with the females being notorious for sexual cannibalism - biting off the heads of the unlucky males during mating. Once more things were pretty quiet just me, the wildlife and John, a local guy acting as a guide for me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8661-M.jpg Up in the hills, the dry climate means that there's little greenery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8660-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8678-M.jpg And then we went back down to the coolness of the trees in the valley, where a strange looking bird was watching me and following through the woods http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8662-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8674-M.jpg One of the most amazing dragonflies I have seen anywhere - a reddish pink one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8668-M.jpg At midday, it was sweltering and I was pleased to find we'd reached a shaded pool where I jumped in under the waterfall http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8669-M.jpg |
G'day Tiffany ,great stuff as always ,some lessons learned for me,i live on the tropic of capricorn here in Emerald ,we also have sapphire mines ,Just west of us here.we also have a very similar hawk .Enjoying your travels as always ,Regards Noel:D
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Paying attention...
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and it's also interesting to hear about the parallels between these two big island nations on either side of the Indian Ocean. |
Moving On
The neighbours are drying their corn
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8642-M.jpg while I have a gorgeous view of this beautiful tree from my front door http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8684-M.jpg It's time to move on, the north and west are calling out to me and the wet season is approaching fast (or maybe it has already arrived there and I'm just being a bit head in the sand about it), I find it hard to tear myself away from these beautiful hills http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8686-M.jpg the kids watch me leaving http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8681-M.jpg They've managed to introduce me these delicacies http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8685-M.jpg |
Animal Antics
I have a day and a half of riding on RN 7, although it's a major route by Madagascan standards, it's still not great tarmac and life around me continues how it has been for a very long time
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8721-M.jpg I stop for a break and get the funny feeling that I'm being watched http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8695-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8701-M.jpg they come out from the bushes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8691-M.jpg I finally get to see some ring-tailed lemurs, probably the most famous of all the lemurs but somehow I hadn't managed to see any until now They scampered around me on some rocks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8692-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8694-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8697-M.jpg I was keen to follow them, but it got quite steep and I had bike gear on, then I saw this bloke...in his bare feet! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8704-M.jpg even the lizards were encouraging me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8710-M.jpg I made it to the top http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8708-M.jpg |
Animal Antics 2
My surroundings have been getting greener - this was the view from the top of the rocks
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8705-M.jpg I watched the bloke descend, looking relaxed as he went, this is when the reminder of going down is harder than going up is forcefully brought to life though he again made it look easy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8711-M.jpg Down amongst the trees again, I spot these pink fluttery things http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8712-M.jpg not butterflies (or at least I don't think they are) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8713-M.jpg little chameleons hiding amongst the dead leaves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8714-M.jpg he's a sweet-looking thing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8720-M.jpg |
Time for a Tea Break
Cloudy, damp weather - reminds me of home
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8749-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8750-M.jpg and then I see this magical sight http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8740-M.jpg For the ignorant amongst you - these are tea plants http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I manage to get a look around the tea processing plant starting with the racks of leaves being dried out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8723-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8724-M.jpg The leaves go through a whole series of heath-robinson type machines http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8738-M.jpg the machines bear this proud plaque- they've come all the way from Gainsborough http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8726-M.jpg the sacks of tea leaves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8731-M.jpg for a tea lover like me, travelling in a coffee-dominated culture, this was a real treat (call me sad if you want!) I could smell the tea in the air http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8729-M.jpg and they sell them in cute little lemur bags - I bought a few and then the ultimate moment - the tasting... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8733-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8734-M.jpg A proper teacup and saucer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8735-M.jpg I enjoyed it so much, I had two cups and promptly had a caffeine rush! One of the most touching monents was when I spotted the proper English kettle- complete with English plug AND wall socket http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8728-M.jpg One more thing to do before I left - my Mum had been commenting that she thought I was looking a bit skinny so I weighed myself on their scales http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8736-L.jpg - "Mum, you'll be pleased to hear that I'm still heavier than a sack of tea" |
Not Butterflies
Down amongst the trees again, I spot these pink fluttery things
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8712-M.jpg not butterflies (or at least I don't think they are) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8713-M.jpg Tiffany they look like Leafhoppers (Family: Cicadellidae) but are usually green and quite small. It's hard to tell their size from the photo. Great spotting!! PN |
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Beautiful Wildlife shots this time Tiffany ,a magical place indeed.regards Noel:D
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Leafhopper Knowhow
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Turkey Alert
Back on the road,
tarmac = yes brick houses = no http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8752-M.jpg The local café has a menu on the wall- this is the height of sophistication, actually having a menu. It's mostly meat,, though I'm still working on some of the Malagasy menu items. Probably the only item you will recognise is tripe - they're fond of their offal here. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8751-M.jpg Fuelling up at the petrol station I spot the usual overloaded van, piled high with luggage http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8746-M.jpg Getting closer, I can hear the raucous sound of the livestock on board http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8747-M.jpg The ducks don't seem happy, and wait a minute... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8748-M.jpg A turkey has sneaked in with the ducks! The bridge ahead looked like a scene from a war film http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8756-M.jpg There was no alternative for quite a distance, so a long detour was called for. The roadside shacks sell just about anything - this was the local purveyor of stones http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8761-M.jpg The landscape has changed again, and I'm now surrounded by lush, green rice paddy fields http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8759-M.jpg |
Turning down Tea!
I was invited in for a cup of tea, but had to ride on, I had a long day ahead of me and wanted to make the moost of the dry weather, clouds were lurking on the horizon.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8753-M.jpg I knew I was finally getting back to civilisation when I spotted these roadside stands selling souvenirs http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8763-M.jpg You would not believe how much I wanted to take one of those giraffes on my bike with me (incidentally, there are NO giraffes in Madagascar!!) and more terraces covered in paddy fields - the Madagascans consume more rice per head than ANY other country in the world http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8762-M.jpg At this point I was still luxuriating in all the greenery, after the orange mud in the east and dry sand of the south. I picked up another hitch-hiker... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8765-M.jpg I think it's a male- somewhat less blood thirsty than the females, and no, it is NOT on a weather-beaten area of my skin but on the bike seat. He had a good look around the bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8766-M.jpg I reached the central point of the island and then continued north, it suddenly started looking eerily clay -like around me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8771-M.jpg and just to prove self-timed photos don't always work out properly http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/lol8.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8773-M.jpg |
Breakfast to Sunset
Yummy - a street-side breakfast of some completely unidentifiable soup type thing
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8776-M.jpg I'm just hoping it isn't meaty. Meanwhile across the street, the entertainment was provided by the local lads playing open-air table football or Baby Foot as it's called over here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8779-M.jpg This is what the breakfast table looked like (and my fellow diners) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8778-M.jpg Not quite Tim Hortons but the doughnuts weren't too bad. I'd managed to ride all the way up to a real town with real buildings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8794-M.jpg and even better, a friendly bike place http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8783-M.jpg this is Piste Rouge, where Suzi was put in the capable hands of Alain and his crew http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8782-M.jpg I went for a quick test-ride and to look at the coast as the sun was setting http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8790-M.jpg You know, I never tire of those gorgeous tropical sunsets when the sun slowly sinks over the sea http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8791-M.jpg |
Loving Colourful Madagascar
Some culture for you, the room rates (in french) from my hotel
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8792-L.jpg In case you're interested, I opted for the second from the bottom, it basically means a room with a fan, shared bathroom and loo. 18,000 Ariary/£6. I was in the town of Mahajanga famous for many things including what is possibly the fattest baobab tree in the country - 21 metres in circumference, in fact so big that it forms its own roundabout http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8787-M.jpg I even stopped long enough for a still photo to be taken - one of the advantages of being in a town is that there are other people around whom I can ask to take a photo. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8784-M.jpg Mahajanga marked the end of the good roads and the possibility of more of that nasty stuff that I'd been having problems with in the south. I paused at one of the most colourful spots I'd seen on my whole journey Humour me with this one folks as I set the scene Scene 1 paddy fields with women thinning out the plants http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8804-M.jpg Scene 2 The flame trees framing the field http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8799-M.jpg Scene 3 the zebu ambling into view http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8800-M.jpg Scene 4 The star of the show - Suzi, attempts to steal the scene from the zebu http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8802-M.jpg but actually, it was this guy, with his wheelbarrow who stole the scene completely as far as I was concerned http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8803-M.jpg I'm not sure he had ever heard of pneumatic tyres. there are times like this when I fall in love with my travels all over again. (I did warn you at the start to humour me with this one) |
The North West
Another doughnut breakfast stop
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8805-L.jpg and I followed the zebu out of town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8811-M.jpg actually I was a bit wary of him as he was just wandering the road on his own, bellowing away. I'm always wary with animals, especially those that are bigger than me. I stopped for a comfort break behind a tree, and heard a scuttling sound. Looking upwards, I saw this climbing away from me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8809-M.jpg I'm not sure who was more startled, me or him. The sun was setting and the moon had risen when I reached the village of Antsohihy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8819-M.jpg It might not look very promising http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8817-M.jpg |
Other Road Users
Crossing the road can be a hazardous experience in Madagascar, just look at this little guy
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8781-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8780-M.jpg I don't think he had a happy ending. Meanwhile, at the other end of the village, these guys were also having a few problems http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8874-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8875-M.jpg for those of a nervous disposition, don't look up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8826-M.jpg but then again, do you really want to look down? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8796-M.jpg I went on foot to get a closer look (I'd nearly run it over), and then it coiled like this... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8797-M.jpg yep, looks like it's about to strike and I'm the target! A dignified retreat by me. Meanwhile, the zebu were doing an outflanking manoeuvre and going off-road to get back to their village. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8816-M.jpg I'd begun to leave the lush greeness behind, my surroundings were looking drier by the mile http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8815-M.jpg |
Nosy Be
Time to head off-shore for a while, the island in the distance looks inviting, I wonder if this boat can take me...
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8823-M.jpg Just joking (well only a bit - this is Madagascar after all), I was directed to this boat which acts as a general purpose ferry http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8820-M.jpg the island looks like paradise http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8825-M.jpg not too many people around http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8821-M.jpg The inevitable lemurs hanging around as well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8831-M.jpg The ground is pink http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8837-M.jpg not sure what they are, but the blossom is gorgeous and after the arid landscape on the mainland, this was a nice change. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8838-M.jpg I'm on the island of Nosy Be, a hotbed of tourism as far as Madagascar goes - but that still isn't saying much :clap: |
Nosy Be 2
I head down to the village
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8857-M.jpg and get shown around, including being introduced to the local snake who is also a tourist attraction http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8841-S.jpg and a giant tortoise http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8847-M.jpg I love seeing tropical fruit growing. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8835-M.jpg A scuttling in the bush and I saw this chameleon http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8851-M.jpg and then a milipede appeared http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8853-M.jpg that picture doesn't do it any justice as it's quite a good size, I realise that I need to take things a step further to show the size of it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8856-M.jpg Ever since the poisoned centipede bite (see page 4 of this RR), I've been a bit wary of multi-legged creatures. Riding across the island, I have a chuckle at the roadside kilometre posts http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8867-M.jpg The local hairdresser tried to tempt me in for a new style- her poster was quite amusing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8859-M.jpg I find the perfect quiet place to stay, the main action is the washing drying on the beach http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8858-M.jpg How to iron a bedspread, Malagasy-style http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8864-M.jpg |
Meanwhile, lurking off-shore...
I head out for a day of scuba diving with these guys
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8863-M.jpg I'm putting on a brave smile as the swell feels a bit choppy (I'm wearing my anti-nausea bands) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8866-M.jpg I have a couple of good dives and see a snake, octopi and lots of fish. But the best is yet to come, in distance we see seabirds diving and we go closer to see what is going on http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...DSC_8732-M.jpg There's something big in the water VERY BIG I jump in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMAG0008-M.jpg and I'm not disappointed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMAG0007-M.jpg It's a whale shark - the biggest fish in the oceans http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...M0026052-M.jpg soon after that picture, it swam towards me and at the last moment dived under me. - I can't describe how excited I am. My face is one big grin as I follow it underwater http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMAG0011-L.jpg |
Love the whale shark photo's you are indeed blessed ,lovely shots as always.:D
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Back to the Mainland
Getting off the island was a bit busier - two boats were moored side by side, and at this point things looked reasonably sensible and sane.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8868-M.jpg Then the tuk tuk boys arrived http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8870-M.jpg and they loaded up - some having problems getting up the loading ramp http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8869-M.jpghttp://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8871-M.jpg I was allocated the other boat - there does seem to be some sort of system, but I couldn't work out what it was. Mine had a steeper ramp and to the untrained eye, the ferry looked pretty full already... But they were determined to squeeze Suzi in. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8873-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8872-M.jpg The ferry didn't sink and back on the mainland... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8960-M.jpg I headed off to do some exploring http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8946-M.jpg: |
Tsingys and Things
I'm in the north of Madagascar, exploring some of the less visited areas.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8923-M.jpg The landscapes are stunning http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8934-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8942-M.jpg I scramble down the hill side to get a closer picture. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8935-M.jpg I realised it wasn't much good just taking a picture of these unusual pinnacles (or tsingy as they are called in Madagascar) from a distance, I needed something to give it some sense of scale... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...3s/0/M/A-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8930-M.jpg It gets a bit steeper in places http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8926-M.jpg |
Market Day
Diego Suarez, not the name of a character in Zorro but the most northerly town in Madagascar. I felt a sense of achievement, I'd now made it from the most southerly, Fort Dauphin all those weeks ago. The plan was to have a rest here, explore a bit then start heading south.
The hotel might be cheap ($9a night including breakfast), the terrace and its views as I eat breakfast are incredible. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8898-M.jpg And they've got WiFi so a chance to send some emails and let family know I'm still in one piece. I head off to the market for some food http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8914-L.jpg Various pickled condiments are available, including some lethal looking chillis http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8917-M.jpg And then a stall that looks like a cross between a comedy sketch involving rubber chickens and a scene from a horror film It's a BYO (Bring Your Own) with a difference - the Chicken Boys are in town. Turn up with your recently purchased chicken, live or dead, they're not picky (the guys not the chickens!). They will kill it, pluck it and even gut it if so required. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8913-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8912-M.jpg This guy is the pedicure expert http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8911-M.jpg Time for any self-respecting vegetarian to move on I think...off to the fruit and veg section http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8919-M.jpg A sight for every Francophile to smile at http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8918-M.jpg Prices are in Francs http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I must explain that officially the currency is the Ariary, it was changed nine years ago and re-valued. However in many places, prices are still quoted in Malagasy Francs, which causes me some confusion at times, one Ariary is worth five Francs. |
Ok have to ask what is the fruit in the pictures?Nice to catch up ,regards Noel:D
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I've been enjoying this thread for months now. Thanks, Tiffany!
Mark |
Good stuff Tiff!
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Name that Fruit
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Below that are melons and small mangoes - all delicious :clap: Quite often I come across fruit that I'm not familiar with and then I ask the stallholders how to eat them. |
The lychees/mangoes i was familiar with the melons were a bit of a guess ,is it a type of rock melon?
Thanks for the reply Noel:D |
Last Chance to Vote
Great excitement in the Coates household - one of my Madagascar photos has been shortlisted for the HU Calendar.
Voting closes tomorrow, please vote for me if you like my picture, it's this one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7708-M.jpg You can vote for it on this page http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...inners-75142-2 My picture is the second to last photo - so trawl through to the bottom. Naturally there are a lot of extremely good pictures featured, and I'm flattered to be amongst them. Thank you to all those who have voted for me - it is much appreciated. |
A Sombre Moment
I wandered around town and on the outskirts I spotted this tranquil place
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8907-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8906-M.jpg The sign out front http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8900-M.jpg It's the final resting place of Commonwealth Soldiers who died here during the Second World War, I found out a bit more about this remote part of the planet which had become embroiled in battle scenes that I mostly associated with Europe, the Far East and North Africa. This is one of the few places south of the equator that saw action including some Japanese midget submarines which entered the harbour . I wandered around the cemetary, which is beautifully maintained, reading the inscriptions and feeling for these young men who had died a long way from home. The Welsh Fusilier http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8908-M.jpg The African Corporal http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8902-M.jpg And the Belgian Soldier http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8904-M.jpg And placed flowers on this Trooper's grave. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8910-M.jpg __________________ |
The Beautiful North
I went further afield exploring along the coastline on some dirt tracks to blow the cobwebs away.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8929-L.jpg The track eroded away through the soft dirt of the ground http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8957-M.jpg It was fun to ride http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8953-M.jpg I reached the coast once more http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8895-M.jpg Leaving Suzi the bike in the shade next to a cafe I headed out across the bay in a boat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8894-M.jpg The sea is a beautiful colour and so incredibly clear. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8879-M.jpg We stopped at an island where the boat guy caught some fish http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8882-M.jpg which within minutes were on a plate ready to eat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8883-M.jpg I skipped the fish, but had a couple of beers, this is the woman who cooked the fish http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8884-M.jpg The deckhand had a nap in the shade under the sail http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8890-M.jpg On the way back, I persuaded the boat man to stop so that I could have a swim. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8893-M.jpg |
Into the North East
Follow the yellow van - by Madagascan standards, this van still has plenty of space for more luggage.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8961-M.jpg I'm heading towards the Vanilla Coast in the North East I pause to have a chat with a guy running a motorbike repair place - not quite how they look back home, but he seemed to know what he was doing. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8968-M.jpg Suzi was kept parked overnight in the hotel reception http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8967-M.jpg The guys cheered when I rode out straight down the steps - I have to admit I may have looked more confident than I felt, I can't stand it when I know my feet can't reach the ground at all. The road started to deteriorate and the traffic became more rural http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8965-M.jpg I hadn't been on dirt for a while, so it was a welcome sight http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8984-M.jpg But the ominous sight of clouds was not quite so welcome, I was reaching the area I'd been warned about and the last thing I needed was the rain and mud as I tackled these hills http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8980-M.jpg I bought some fresh bread from the baker - he was on his rounds through the remote villages and was delighted to have a foreign customer in the middle of nowhere. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8969-M.jpg |
Life on the Road
Breakfast was the usual noodle soup type dish with milky tea, sunshine and good company in the form of this schoolgirl who spoke good french
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8971-M.jpg And at my feet, pecking up any bits that I dropped... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8970-M.jpg Daisy Duck - destined for the stew pot in the not too distant future according to her owner. Congestion on the road caused by this pig having a bath and not wanting to move http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8974-M.jpg This photo was taken by the guy guarding a broken down pick up truck, he'd been there 24 hours already when I saw him. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8973-M.jpg The weather changed dramatically from the sun to grey clouds and rain Having grappled with mud in the rain (and been so miserable with it I did NOT stop to take pictures), I paused at this village http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8983-M.jpg I realised my rear tyre was very soft and so I got my pump out (Thom, you might recognise the pump!) The guys were all very intrigued and so I let them take over http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8981-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8982-M.jpg I pushed on hard for the final part of the day's ride- there's nothing like the thought of a cold beer as motivation... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8990-M.jpg And I'd once more reached the coastline - looking somewhat worse for wear after yet another bloody tough day. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8988-L.jpg |
Coastal Living
Now where was I? Oh yes, sat on a beautiful beach, enjoying the view whilst sipping a cold beer - life feels good despite my aching muscles, and at least I'm clean as I also had a shower - many of these hard days end with no shower at all, just a dip in the sea or a river if I'm lucky.
The fishermen are paddling past on their way home http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8993-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8997-M.jpg My dinner arrives - tomato salad and chips.. the life of a vegetarian http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8991-M.jpg I went for a stroll through the village and met this little boy, who shyly showed me his homemade boat - constructed from a discarded flip flop, twigs and leaves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9002-M.jpg He demonstrated how well it floated http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9001-M.jpg And I went with him downstream where he and his friends were racing them- using the gentle breeze blowing in from the ocean. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9000-M.jpg |
Bliss
I was getting some enjoyment out of spotting the school crossing signs, they seem to vary a lot from one town to the next - and at the risk of sounding a bit weird, I ended up with a folder of photos showing the different signs (a bit like my folder of photos of different cow signs in Latin America - when you travel on your own and there's no one to talk to...)
Here they look... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8987-M.jpg In this village I'm expecting to see people with short stumpy legs and elbows that don't bend. While here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9009-M.jpg Even the kids have quiffs and the adults have abnormally long arms. In the real world I was meeting guys like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8978-L.jpg He's 86 and runs the village shop in a place where the houses look like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9006-M.jpg That's the posh end of the village, this is mostly what the houses looked like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9007-M.jpg he has run the shop every day for the last 50 years, he took over from his father-in-law, his wife died 16 years ago. I drank a soft drink with him (no electricity so it was warm from the shelf, after he had wiped the dust off the bottle) and gave him some of my wasabi peas - an acquired taste, especially for someone living in the middle of nowhere in northern Madagascar. He said he'd never tasted anything like them and shared them with his great-nephew who had come along to check I wasn't there to mug the old guy. Back to my journey, 6.15am and the view from my shack looks like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8996-M.jpg The morning rush hour started up... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8994-M.jpg |
If it Moves - Take a Photo
My favourite pig picture- the sow was wallowing on her side just enjoying the mud and the piglets kept pushing at her for milk, even trying to suckle on the teats that were submerged, as usual this is in the middle of the road.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8975-M.jpg I picked up a hithhiker http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9031-M.jpg It took a liking to my Cornish flag http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9030-M.jpg I coudn't find anyone who would confirm that they eat snails in Madagascar -a s a former french colony I think they are missing out on these extra large snails. More over-loaded vans, crammed with people and luggage, the guy hnging out the back is the conductor and money collector and laso acts as the rear view mirror, calling through to the driver when I was overtaking http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9015-M.jpg I reached the coastal town of Antalaha on the Vanilla Coast - riding the roads, the air is full of the scent of the vanilla and clove plantations. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9003-M.jpg the road ends here, and it was time to find a an laternative route around this final peninsula of land. I headed down to the docks, in search of a ship or boat. The docks were empty and I was told there are no boats. I searched around a bit mroe then headed into town where I had some vegiie britters and chatted to the owner of the stand. She was very excited to discover that I'm from Britain and started telling me about her friend the British missionary who also travels around on a motorbike. Within minutes by a strange quirk of fate he appeared on his Yamaha bike, wearing black polyester trousers, a white shirt and flipflops-looking very out of place in the heat and humidity. I was lucky to run into him, the food stand owner introduced us, Andy the Norfolk missionary, who has lived here for five years. He was able to explain that the boats do not use the purpose-built docks as they have to pay mooring charges. Instead they go down the coast a short distance and moor off one of the beaches. If work is needed to be done, the boat is beached and the work is arried out on the sand. I heeded in the direction I'd been sent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8998-M.jpg There was one boat moored off the beach which I was assured was due to head north shortly - no good to me, I needed to go south. Three boats were pulled up on the beach like the one above., none of them wre going anywhere fast. I was told to try again the next day. I spent the rest of the day tracking down fuel- none of the garages had any petrol - only diesel. I eventually found the black marketeer operating out of a grocery shop selling it in water bottles and filled my tank. i'd been gettinag bit concerned as this was the second town where there was no fuel and I'd been on reserve for a while. |
Fishy Tales
I hung out for a couple of days, getting to know the locals and watching the progress n the boats
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8999-M.jpg Or what appeared to be lack of progress. I was finally told that there was the possibility of a boat due on Sunday which "might" be heading down to Maroansetra. Unfortunately that was five days wait for the vague chance of a boat that might be going in my direction. Although my months in Madagascar had seemed to stretch away endlessly, my time for leaving was approaching rather rapidly. I didnt have the luxury of time to wait for a boat that might not run. I turned Suzi round and for the first time on this trip I retraced my steps, heading north, to get around the dense jungles of the north. Riding through the markets http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9010-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9013-M.jpg I ended up at another small coastal town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9004-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9005-M.jpg Down at the beach, the fishermen were bringing their catch ashore http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9021-M.jpg They spotted me and brought them over http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9023-M.jpg I pointed out they would be too big for my motorbike! They continued their search for a customer. Laying them out to be admired http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9025-M.jpg The colours are incredible Having foud a customer, the guy then guts the fish at the edge of the sea. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9026-M.jpg |
Go West Young Woman
I needed to find an Internet Cafe and having been assured by the hotel owner that there was one just down the road, I headed off to find it, the afternoon became a wild goose chase culminating in me having to "kidnap" the heloful loke from the Jovenna garage to be my guide and point out the route to me from Suzi's pillion.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9028-L.jpg I was so long at the Internet Cafe - partly because I'd had no contact with the outside world for quite a few days and also because the connection was a bit slow - that when I came out it was dark. i rode back to my hotel at a cautious speed, watching out for potholes and wanderig cows like this one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9029-M.jpg The next morning I went back to find some flame trees I'd spotted while doing my wild goose chase and was successfulhttp://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9016-M.jpg Another shot where I mistimed my self-timer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9018-M.jpg It was time to get out of Dodge City, Suzi and I turned west towards the mountains, our departure noted only by the zebu http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9045-M.jpg Time for a quick couple of selfies http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9038-M.jpg I got that one a bit wrong with the timer - I seem to be peering at the camera wondering if it has taken the picture yet. this was better http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9037-M.jpg I look at these and think to myself..maybe it's time for some new leather trousers, these ones get baggier by the day and I've been wearing them for over 10 years. Comfortable with a capital Chttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
Oh Dear - NOT one of mine!
Definitely NOT one of mine
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9036-L.jpg Ahead of me, I was facing my final dirt road across a mountain range which already was covered in mud as the dreaded Wet Season had started, nervous???http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/puzzled.gif I was shaking in my boots, yes I HAD been through some deep mud already, but this time it would be combind with steep rocky slopes with precipice edge, or maybe I had just lost my nervehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9043-M.jpg The first section didn't look too bad, and I started to feel somewhat more confident. As usual there is virtually no other traffic or sign of any people. But then it started to deteriorate... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9044-M.jpg The Checkpoint Guy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9035-M.jpg He was happy to pose for a photo and then subjected me to grave warnings about the road ahead whilst also expressing sheer bewilderment that I was on my own. To make him feel better I told him my husband was waiting for me in Ambilobe |
Friends on the Road
I'd got used to seeing mainly zebu traffic, but this was the first time I'd seen a triple yoke one
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8976-M.jpg The guy with him was a cheery fellow and stopped to ask me about the bike and to warn me about the track ahead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8977-M.jpg I pulled up for a comfort break (!) and when I returned to Suzi, we had a visitor, a very nosy one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9049-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9048-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9050-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...MG_9051B-M.jpg I persuaded him to head home, a motorcycle is no place for a young chameleon http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9052-M.jpg And as he climbed back into the bushes, you can see the almost instant colouring change http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9054-M.jpg He's gone back to all-green after picking up shades of brown to match the colours on Suzi...perhaps I should have ridden a Kawasakihttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
It Started to get Muddy
I'm up in the hills, and I'm feeling relieved as you can see from the look on my face, I'd just negotiated a very steep slope without mishap.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9057-M.jpg But I think my confidence in the dryness of the track was misplaced, as a short time later this was what the track started to look like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9047-M.jpg and the bridges didn't look like fun http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9046-M.jpg It wasn't a pretty sight. I then arrived in a small town which resembled the Wild West, I pulled over for a rest and some food. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9061-M.jpg The food options didn't look too appetising http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9059-M.jpg The main course being boiled zebu stomach lining - I opted for some noodles. |
Dirty Roads
The kids had enjoyed looking at the bike
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9062-M.jpg Apart from them the village was pretty deserted http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9060-M.jpg Much like the roads .. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9087-M.jpg I managed to capture on camera some watery moments http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9079-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9080-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9081-M.jpg The look on my face of intense concentration. And my only audience...this little puppy, who was duly unimpressed. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9077-M.jpg |
Tricky Moments
Back in the village, the old man was delighted to see me again and asked me to wait while he put on his best shirt as he was ready to be photographed again - such a sweetheart, naturally I obliged
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9075-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9076-M.jpg Then back to the mud http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9083-M.jpg and still the mud got worse http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9086-M.jpg The cyclists showing me the best route http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9092-M.jpg I was surprised to see this truck seemingly coming out of nowhere http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9091-M.jpg |
Curious Chameleon
A pause to get my breath and another chameleon appeared, providing me with some light relief between the bouts of mud wrestling as I watched it climbing all over the bike
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9070-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9071-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9068-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9066-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9067-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9074-M.jpg Witht he aid of a stick I tempted him away from his exploration of all things Suzuki and Giant Loop http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9069-M.jpg And away he went http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9063-M.jpg |
The Final Frontier of Mud
A village stop for a cup of tea
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9093-M.jpg The kids gathered to look at this strange foreigner covered in mud http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9094-M.jpg their big sister turned up - wearing her school uniform, to the uninitiated, the uniform looks like a school dinner lady's overalls http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9096-M.jpg Then back to the mud, where a local bike showed me an off-road route to get through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9097-M.jpg It was worsening, this lorry was completely stuck and no other vehicles could pass him http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9089-M.jpg and what about this sight?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9090-M.jpg At one point, because the mud was so slippery, wet and claylike I spent 10 minutes coering 100 metres. The tyres were going every direction except forwards and I was beginning to think I may not make it to solid ground again. The sun helped me and was drying out the tracks in places - this was one of the easy sections. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9088-M.jpg and then suddenly I was through - looking at the sun rapidly sinking I rode hard and fast in the hope of reaching a place that had accommodation before dark. I lucked out and ended up at a small hotel, where after a bucket shower the bed needed some attention - despite my tiredness I found the mattress was too thin and so I had to fold it over double http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9098-M.jpg The luxury bed option! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9099-M.jpg |
Time for a Rest
I'm re-tracing my steps and decide to head for some R&R over on Nosy Be island again, just look out for the smoky ferry
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9101-M.jpg Closer up it inspires even less confidence in me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9102-M.jpg I just about manage to squeeze Suzi onto the yellow ferry http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9100-M.jpg Safely on the island, I'm greeted warmly with a friendly "Bonjour Monsieur" by this family http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9103-M.jpg who are selling mangoes, I did have my helmet and bike gear on, I remove my helmet and they were very apologetic- not a problem. The husband is keen for me to take a picture of him and his wife, happy to oblige http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9104-M.jpg Looking for a place to stay, Suzi is offered a place in the dining room to park http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9105-M.jpg After seeing what has happened to the car outside, I think it's probably a good idea she's safely indoors http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9107-M.jpg Early morning, down on the beach, the zebu are having a swim http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9108-M.jpg And then taken back to the fields http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9110-M.jpg I'm spoiling myself, staying in a nice place after the trauma of the mud Beachside, mirrors and polished wood everywhere, I feel just a bit out of place with all my bike gear http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9113-M.jpg Someone else who's bike is a bit tall for them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9115-M.jpg The local flower seller http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9111-M.jpg Reminding me more of Bali or India than Africa. |
Tiffany, loving your posts and pics!!:clap:
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Cheers
Quote:
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Funny Foreigners
A final day on the beach watching the locals, and then sneaking into the Italian version of Club Med just around the corner
where they had beach cleaners http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9116-M.jpg I sauntered around trying to look inconspicuous and muttering "Ciao" at anyone who came near me, the highlight was the yoga session led by a guy wearing a pair of tiny speedos. I lounged in the pool - not as nice as the sea, ate my way through several courses at the buffet table and then went back to my pauper's corner, wondering a bit about these Italian tourists who will be going home and talking about their time in Madagascar, having only spent time at this one small resort. A very different experience from my own. Heading to the port, I got stuck behind this heavily laden Renault http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9121-M.jpg amazingly they didn't lose a single orange... Back on the mainland, a couple of young women befriended me- curiosity and perhaps sensing a kindred spirit as they were riding around on a moped http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9126-M.jpg Only the second woman I had spotted riding on two wheels http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9127-M.jpg Loving the barefoot kickstarting http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Suzi had somehow got a flat tyre, so I got the local tyre guys to sort it out, while I sat on the shady side of the street http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9123-M.jpg I was there for a while as they were also doing a couple of rush jobs for other people, everyone passing was having a good look at me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9125-M.jpg I was offered a snack http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9134-M.jpg the vendor was an eight year old girl called Amalie http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9133-M.jpg Out on her own with her kid brother tagging along, trying to make some money. I attempted to explain my vegetarian beliefs - "Nothing with a face" which she didn't seem too sure about - they're not used to foreigners and their fancy ways here. |
Loving Life
Tyre sorted, back on the road, should I be worried by a sign like this??
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9136-M.jpg Loving the multitude of teeth that the skull has http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Not sure what it was supposed to be warning about, possibly this... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9131-M.jpg The sight of the goat on the back of the bike is one of my favourite images from this trip, It had been a long day of riding and so I was pleased to see this sign, a place to stay http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9144-M.jpg However the sign was the smartest thing about the place, this was the interior wall http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9128-M.jpg I'm not fussy and still had a good night's sleep. As I rode past (hence the slightly blurred quality - riding one handed at a junction whilst taking a photo), I could smell the ripe mangoes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9154-M.jpg I did a U Turn, and went back for a closer look and to buy some http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9155-M.jpg Mangoes are my favourite fruit and I was definitely in Madagascar at the right time, we'd reached the height of the mango season, with what seems like hundreds of different varieties for sale - eye-wateringly cheap. I crammed as many as I could into my bag. I went for a wander in the market http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9152-M.jpg And met a bunch of guys who had obviously heard about my chameleon fetish http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9150-M.jpg So many chameleons and so little luggage space... |
Things are Different Here
Breakfast Tales
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9149-M.jpg Feeling like a change from the usual noodles and soup combination, I found this place. I was back in the HIghlands, where the food on offer can differ vastly from the coastal areas. This was the doughnut stand - Tim Horton's eat your heart out (a reference that possibly only Canadians will get) this is what the price list/menu looked like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9146-M.jpg Even the most expensive doughnut cost only 3 pence (5 cents). I managed to munch my way through about five or six - naturally all in the name of research, how can I possibly comment on the culture without tasting the food? And for those in a hurry, they were doing tea and coffee to go, though you had to provide your own container - in this case an empty water bottle. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9148-M.jpg Strangely enough, the guy at the petrol station/fuel shack next door was also using old water bottles. For those who are squeamish or fussy about the fuel that they put in their bikes, perhaps you should look away http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/yelrotflmao.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9141-M.jpg With both Suzi and myself fuelled up, it was time to hit the road again, the mist cleared and it got a bit warmer. I paused to chat to this guy with his zebu and sledge, making a racket as they went down the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9139-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9140-M.jpg |
Almost There
I wasn't far from Tana (the capital and the end of my journey), when I had another flat tyre, I managed to get to the local tyre guy where as usual a crowd soon gathered
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9142-L.jpg With the tyre fixed, I headed into the city, lunch was cooked by this woman- http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9151-M.jpg veggie fritters and here she is making up more batter using her hands and adding water from the rather dirty plastic jerry in front of her - regardless, the food was delicious. A night in a comfortable hotel and I caught up with some friends, this is Lalau catching a lift to the market. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9153-M.jpg I enjoyed the vivid message this sign had: http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9156-M.jpg However it was a precursor of what was to come, minutes later on my final ride of the whole trip, whilst riding along this road, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9158-M.jpg a car pulled out in front of me - ouchhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif to be honest the car was far worse off than me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9161-M.jpg Number plate ripped off, some scrapes and is that a nasty hole ripped int he body work?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9162-M.jpg While Suzi and I did not have a mark on us. The best part about it was the traffic police - http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9157-M.jpg a glamorous young women with what appeared to be rhinestones decorating her hat. She was a bit shy about having her photo taken. She was also surprised at how I didn't want to press charges - the driver had admitted he was completely at fault and was also very profuse in his apologies. I took Suzi back to the shop to sell her and told them about the accident - they had a good look but couldn't find any damage on Suzi either. What a final adventure to have, in all my years of riding, I have never had any sort of collision with any other vehicle. It was a touching moment saying goodbye to Suzi and handing the keys over to the mechanic http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9167-M.jpg I then dashed back inside as I'd spotted another bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9165-M.jpg A Royal Enfield - and how appropriate as my next journey is going to be crossing the Indian Himalayas on a Royal Enfield 500cc bike. |
Getting Home
Having said goodbye to Suzi, it was time to pack - a bit of an issue to cram everything into my bags, despite travelling light I seemed to have acquired quite a lot of stuff.
My room on my last night while I was attempting to pack http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9169-M.jpg I had to get a connecting flight in Paris and enjoyed a northern hemsiphere sunset at the airport http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9170-M.jpg The combined flights were about 14 hours, I then had to get the overnight train home from London. I made up a cosy sleeping area on the floor of the train using camping gear and my bags http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9171-M.jpg Early morning and the train arrived in Cornwall, as it pulled into the station, I heard a shout and there was my sister AKA the "Loud Librarian" waiting to greet me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9172-M.jpg Resplendent on the platform in her pyjamas and dressing gown - some of you might remember her looking like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7958-M.jpg Getting home is always a strange mixture of emotions; pleasure at seeing family and friends after months away but also a sense of loss at no longer being on the road. |
Thanks for the superb ride report and pickies Tiff. Always a joy to read.
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Thank You
Thanks to all of you who voted for my picture - it is in the calendar - I'm Miss January.
Thank you very much everyone :clap::clap: More details here Photo Contest Winners for 2015 Calendar | Horizons Unlimited |
Thank you for sharing
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