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Ladies in Ladakh
Here's the reason I wasn't able to be at HUBB UK this year...
I've been back to Asia, to the Himalayan region of India to be precise and I'm leading an all-female group of riders through Ladakh. Beforehand though, I had the opportunity to do a thorough recce and familiarise myself with the route..read on Let me introduce Enid, a Royal Enfield Bullet - 500cc, fuel injection, gears on the correct side (unlike the older models of Enfield) and she's a great bike. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...775%20sm-M.jpg the streets in India are chaotic with most traffic being of the two-wheeled variety, usually with at least one or more pillion riders and also saris flapping around perilously close to the rear wheel http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...M/A%20sm-M.jpg My first ride out was to the garage to get some fuel, considering how anarchy seems to reign on the roads, I was most relieved by the orderly queue that forms to get petrol at the garage http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...M/A%20sm-M.jpg Here I am with the Enfield ready to set off - the guy I've got it from told me has never heard the comment "ooh what a great colour, it matches my toenails!" http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9786-M.jpg I'm using soft luggage from Giant Loop once more, and as usual, I've got all my camping gear with me. One of my favourite breakfasts - dosa http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9784-M.jpg The roads are not too bad at this stage, curious monkeys watch me ride past, and if I stop for long enough some of them even throw stuff at me. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9800-M.jpg The foothills of the Himalayas where everything is green and the hills are still rounded http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9818-M.jpg The driving is a little bit crazy at times, I saw several accidents like this one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9819-M.jpg Everyone was pretty good-natured about it and allowed me to squeeze through between the car and the truck. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9816-M.jpg I'm finding it strange that I can reach the ground with flat feet! |
Hitting the Road
A gratuitous shot of the Enfield, all geared up, I'm travelling light and this time including the extra warm Everest down-filled sleeping bag- it ain't small but it keeps me warmhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9792-M.jpg Football pitches are a rarity over here - I liked the way that this one has been taken over for a game of cricket. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9789-M.jpg Cricket is THE sporting passion in India, every town and village I pass through there are children playing it, usually with a makeshift bat and ball. I was allowed to gatecrash a wedding at the hotel, I arrived while the many and multiple photos were being taken, a queue of people had formed just to click of a few shots. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9782-M.jpg Whoops! - A puncture http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9821-M.jpg I've started this journey in Dehradun, Uttarakand, India. A northern town nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas - hmm, maybe I'll go mad and try to create a map at some point. I've got 11 days until my group arrives so I'm soloing the route we'll be covering to familiarise myself with it, then dashing back down to Delhi to meet the group as they arrive. I'm not sure what to expect, except that the food will be great - the last time I travelled in India, I actually put weight on as I was eating so much. I love travelling over here, the friendliness and curiosity of the people I come across, the noise, chaos and life in general - it's a fantastic place to explore. the Enfiels is working well, I'm getting used to being so low to the ground, its revs can be very low as it chugs along, allowing me to be a bit lazy with the gear changes, usually when I'm also trying to take photos. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9824-M.jpg Motorbikes are everywhere and they're usually Enfields. I made it to Manali, a town at 2200m, which happens to have a great new hostel that has just opened It's called Ride Inn, and I managed to find it quite easily, just following the signs through town. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9827-M.jpg My Enfield has a twin sister already resident here, and in the other direction, several bikes being worked on. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9828-M.jpg My hosts - Sneh and Godwin who hail from Mumbai, incredibly friendly and nice people. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9829-M.jpg All the furniture and fixtures in the bar café are made from motorbike bits, with a handy Ladakh guide painted on the wall. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9830-M.jpg And on another wall, a collection of the roadside signs with their Accident Avoidance tongue in cheek sayings - these are all genuine road signs seen in Ladakh. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9831-M.jpg the view from my bedroom window in the morning is amazing - snow-capped mountains stretching off into the distance http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9832-L.jpg The Himalayas at their best. |
Hi there,
You can find female guides to Ladakh here - LWTC - Home - a really great idea, maybe that could be of some use to you. Other than that, great bike and trip! I did the Leh - Srinagar highway via Zanksar in 2009 on a 1983 Bullet, and then went to McCleod Gange. The Nubra valley, north of Leh, was fantastic. Good luck with the rest of your trip! :thumbup1: PS yes the food in India is great, and what a brilliant place to travel. It´s easily the most compelling and interesting country I´ve ever visited. As an India-lover, the worst thing I´ve found about S.America so far is the terrible food, coffee and the lack of chai!!! |
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doh I forgot- you don't use a satnav - maybe you should as you could actually provide a valuable service to others on the Hubb. Details of the Ride Inn +918894539495 32.28650 77.17398 |
Very pleasant trip report!!!!
Your Enfield is the (almost) twin sister of the one I hired in Kathmandu for a loop of central Nepal way back in 2012. Congratulations, and best wishes for the next part of your adventure! |
Great shots, makes you feel you're really there. Sigh... I'm thinking I need to begin painting my toe nails in brilliant turquoise too!
Agree with Ride the World, compared to India, where is REAL food and chai in S America?!!! FYI, for those wanting to listen to some brilliant Tiffany stories, click on the All Over the Map link below and scroll down until you see Tiffany's picture. Then click again and prepare to be entertained! |
Welcome Back to Trip Reporting
Hi Tiff,
Great to see your unique and entertaining reporting style again. Regarding maps, do you use a smart phone? I use an App called Maps.Me that will give nice clear maps and recently added an altimeter - all without Internet connection. I have no need for a GPS with this App. Look forward to the rest of your report. PN |
Luddites R Us
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and err, I like to think I already provide a valuable service to others on the HUBB :mchappy: |
Strange but...
errrrm really? :confused1:
I could have sworn most motorcycles have 12 volts running around them! :innocent: IMHO, whilst a picture does indeed speak a thousand words- however, geo-coordinates are more useful in finding specific locations especially in places where one cannot speak the language. As an example- to use this thread alone- putting up the coordinates of the hostel, the puncture repair place and so on, would provide specific info taken on the ground locally which is priceless to others visit that area. |
Bertand Im heading to Manali next month an I have a montana all mapped up But In her description she mentioned that she found the ride inn easily by following the signs in town. Thatll do for me wont be bothered entering the Co ords.
and Im pretty sure if I get a flat tyre out there that I cant fix I wont travelling all the way to where ever Tiffany got hers fixed :D Thanks for doing your report Tiffany looking forward to it What a great service you provide |
Still a bit technical for me...
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Cheers
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From the woman who still uses the sun and Never Eat Shredded Wheat as a daily mnemonic to aid navigation :mchappy:. |
First Mountain Ascent
I left Manali and Ride Inn, fingers crossed for fair weather, one of the bike riders I had spoken to (Eric originally from America but now resident in Manali with his wife and son) had told me about his journey a few days previously when chaotic traffic and bad snow conditions had made Baralacha La impassable and trapping vehicles up there - even motorbike were stuck, for 14 hourshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif, whilst vehicles from the size of a car and upwards were trapped there for 36 hours.
After relating this to me, he said I shouldn't have to worry as an Army convoy had been sent up there to clear the road. However, as I gathered from the anticipatory looks on the faces around me, I was going to be the first bike they knew to try the route - Ms Coates- International Guinea Pig, that's me. The next morning dawned fair and sunny http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9840-M.jpg I even met a few other bikes on the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9836-M.jpg Things can get a bit tight up there, as cars jostle for space on the narrow roads. At this time of year there are a lot of "snow tourists", people from the hot plains of India, heading to the mountains for a glimpse of snow. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9841-M.jpg You can see the gridlock that is caused. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9839-M.jpg I squeezed through between the vehicles, everyone is very good-natured and waves through the bikes. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9842-M.jpg I made it - similar to Tibet, each mountain pass is marked with hundreds of colourful prayer flags, flapping in the wind. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9845-M.jpg The top of the pass had a lot of snow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9843-M.jpg Not many people in sight except these shepherds/goatherds with their flock, making their way through the snow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9844-M.jpg |
Rahtong
As we all know, what goes up must come down and the downward bits are often a little bit more tricky.
Yes, there was a bit more snow than I had expected - after all just a couple of days previously, I'd been sweltering in temperatures in the 40's (110 F and upward). Still, I didn't have much to worry about as I was warmly dressed (like many cold-blooded people I have a morbid fear of getting cold) and so I was wearing plenty of layers and on top had my Rukka jacket and Gerbing trousers, with my Gerbing heated gloves in reserve as well. And, the white snow - well, it make s a pretty backdrop for the bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9852-M.jpg Another flock of sheep/goats appeared, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9847-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9848-M.jpg Everyone seemed to be going the same direction http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9849-M.jpg some water crossings to get through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9853-M.jpg the clear skies and sunny weather meant I made good progress going down and I was soon below the snow line once more and back to warm dusty conditions following a river gorge http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9856-M.jpg I was enjoying this part of the ride http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9855-M.jpg until I realised that I must have taken a wrong turn, the track became increasingly narrow and there was no way a lorry would get along here - even an Indian one with their wild driving techniques. I had to turn around and go back, at which point there was an extremely loud explosion http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9857-M.jpg looking back across the valley, I could see they were dynamiting the route I'd just ridden http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9858-M.jpg Minimal health and safety precautions - if you look closely enough, you can see the vehicles are stopped not too far from the explosion itself - it took some time for the bang to die away and the dust to clear. However I had a different problem, I'd got a puncture, luckily I was able to limp into the village of Keylong where I soon found someone to repair it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9859-M.jpg while I took a well earned lunch break, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9864-M.jpg making the most of my plate of pakora, knowing that the worst of today's riding was still ahead of me |
Getting Wet and Cold
With veg pakoras in my stomach to sustain me and a new inner tube on the rear tyre, I was ready to face the road ahead- the ascent to Baralacha La, for those who have been paying attention, this is the high pass that there had been a lot of problems with just days ago.
I was in luck that today was sunny and clear. The Police checkpoint was safely passed though they expressed some concern that a "lady" was heading up, not only riding a motorbike (a rare sight in India) but also completely alone. I let the policeman have a ride on my Enfield. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9865-M.jpg And then I started to see and experience why this is the most troublesome pass http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9876-M.jpg The deepest river crossing was also one where there was no-one else around http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9867-M.jpg I waded through a few times, in search of a relatively shallow crossing with fewest rocks under foot. In the process I got very wet and as it's glacial melt water, somewhat cold from the knees down. But I made it through with the Enfield and some great revvinghttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Further on, some vehicles were not so fortunate http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9869-M.jpg I was getting higher and back above the snowline, even when there was tarmac, it was still covered in water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9871-M.jpg And my favourite sight - an iceberg in the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9880-M.jpg I'd love to see a warning sign for this type of road hazard. |
Cold and Colder
Trucks, ice and snow
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9883-M.jpg A frozen lake http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9881-M.jpg But my favourite sight has to be this broken down lorry and the guys squatting beside it lighting fires http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9884-M.jpg Trying to warm up the diesel in the tanks to get it going again, it looked like it had been there a couple of days at least. I was beginning to get concerned about how never-ending my own journey was being. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9882-M.jpg On the plus side, it was sunny and I had blue skies. I'm easily pleased and can still smile http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_2698-M.jpg Baralacha La - I made it, didn't stop and kept going until I saw the welcoming sight of the chai (tea) shops, though strictly speaking, these are tea tents. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...1_092425-M.jpg A warm cup of tea helped me take my mind off my freezing feet, and some friendly words from other travellers helped me to leave the warmth of the tent and get back on the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9885-M.jpg It was a nasty road going down, my body temperature was plummeting as I desperately tried to keep my feet out of any more water and finding that balance between making good progress but not going too fast to feel cold, whilst still cursing at the tricky bits in the road. I finally made it to Sarchu - a high altitude valley http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9890-L.jpg No- as in ZERO facilities except tent sites, but, hey it was a place to stop after my loooooong ride, having left Manali in my role as International Guinea Pig this morning. |
Limited Accommodation Options
I'd arrived at Sarchu, the tent site, evening was fast approaching, the light was going
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9894-M.jpg My face is pale and looking a bit pinched, I'm cold and as I'm at 4200m (13,800 ft), I've got a thumping headache - and this is AFTER descending 30km from the mountain pass. I spot a suitable tent place and head off the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9893-M.jpg I rapidly negotiate for a tent - all the while the bloke was looking back up the road for the rest of my group or even a husband, unable to take at face value that I was alone. I got his last tent, and took the Enfield over to the blue tent in the corner http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9897-M.jpg Finally able to smile, but as I crawled inside, the nausea hit me big time, I barely had the energy to drag my panniers in and pull out my sleeping bag. I fumbled around, found my acupressure wrist bands (great for any kind of nausea but usually I use them for my chronic motion sickness). I emerged once, just briefly, holding out my metal water bottle (thanks to Dave at Anderwerks in Calgary for that bottle), it works amazingly well as a hot water bottle. The guy running the site filled it with hot water for me, and so I lay back in bliss, as the blocks of ice that were supposed to be my feet gradually thawed out - yep folks, don't forget the rivers I'd been crossing earlier. My feet were still soaked from them. Fighting altitude sickness, and with no appetite to eat anything, whilst also feeling completely drained I drifted off to sleep clutching a sick bag and my Kriega hydration pack. (please note, this was another case of don't tell my Mum how bad it actually was). |
Hunger Pangs at Pang
For those of you who are familiar with my travels and may be thinking - where's the rufty tufty Tiff who takes her own tent everywhere and camps rough - yes I did have my tent in my Giant Loop panniers. And I was prepared to put it up and had also spotted a few secluded spots to wild camp in, but I was extremely worried about how cold my feet were and with no source of heat at these altitudes I knew I was in danger of frostbite. My poor circulation means that high altitude travel is a bit risky and I'm prone to cold feet at the best of times.
In fact one of my favourite quotes from my ex-boyfriend who had been a policeman for some time is "Jesus Tiff, I've handled corpses that are warmer than your feet" And so, I found myself in the Indian version of Eurocamp for the night (google it if you're not sure what Eurocamp is) I survived the night, despite the incipient vomiting and massive headache, waking up feeling a lot better - especially once I'd seen the view from my tent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9899-M.jpg I scrambled out of tent to get a look and take some photos, this was my tent site http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9902-M.jpg My Enfield is the one on the right next to my tent. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9898-M.jpg No time to linger though, I had a lot of miles to cover today as well - usually I would not be travelling this fast but as you will recall, I am on a recce and have limited time to check out the route and get back down to the plains. Oats, dried fruit and water for breakfast along with a mug of tea, then I set off again, with yet more blue skies. Though I wasn't to appreciate those blue skies until my return journey. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9903-M.jpg Another river crossing- where a car was having a lot of problems and was stuck http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9907-M.jpg what you can't see from this photo are the seven people crammed in the back of the car, all looking a bit concerned that they will have to get out and push http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I wasn't keen to get soaking wet again and so I asked the bridge repair guys, who happily let me squeeze past them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9908-M.jpg as you can see, the bridge was not in the best of conditions. I'd descended a lot from yesterday's snowfields and so the riding was a lot easier. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9906-M.jpg Next stop is Pang, where I enjoyed my first dish of momos http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9909-M.jpg This is the Momo Mama- she operates out of a parachute tent, she and her family live out the back while food service and cooking goes on in the front. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9913-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9911-M.jpg having sampled the Tibetan food, this is also where the locals are in their traditional Tibetan robes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9910-M.jpg The altitude headache had gone, there was a bit more oxygen in the air to brethe and so I could smile once more. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9905-M.jpg |
Tyre Issues
Leaving Pang, I realised I had a flat tyre, luckily this guy was on hand
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9916-M.jpg He usually works on trucks but took on the Enfield with gusto (though not very competently as I was to discover later). I had prime viewing spot, sat next to the Sikh guy on the seat ripped out of a bus http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9915-M.jpg - in true Coates style, sitting on a comfy seat in warm sunshine after several days of riding I drifted off to sleep - much to the amusement of the mechanic, and the alarm of the Sikh next to me - I swear I was NOT dribbling on this shoulder http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I paid the tyre guy 50 Rupees (about 50 pence) - that's the going rate, and continued, keen to make up the lost time. My surroundings had changed, arid is the word, nothing grows along here. I found a cyclist to take a picture of me riding past http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9918-M.jpg They're hardcore, the cyclists who take on the Himalayas. Indian understatement of the year - I'd asked a bloke about fuel- he said no petrol until Upshi, but he did mention a "Tilted Petrol Lorry" further down the road, well, tilted is NOT the word I would use for this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9923-M.jpg Completely upside down where he had rolled down the mountainside. no chance of petrol from him, so I continued, at which point... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9920-M.jpg Another flat, and this time literally in the middle of nowhere by the roadside, though luckily there was tarmac. I soon had some helpers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9919-M.jpg Including a couple of guys from a bike club in Mumbai- I am now an honorary member of their bike club Tiffany of the Road Stallions (I don't think they reckoned on having female riders in their club), though as a former member of the National Union of Railwaymen, a mis-titled group is something I'm used to. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9927-M.jpg These are half yak, half cow calves being driven along the road. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9928-M.jpg |
Great story and photos, thanks for sharing your adventure
Wayne |
Hi Tiffany. I have followed your stories and travels and watched the HU dvd's and you are one brave lady. Thanks for all the wonderful experiences you share with us. If ever you find yourself in Windhoek Namibia it would be an honor to meet and host you.
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Thank you
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Chai Stops
The Road Stallions had stopped for chai (tea) again
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9932-M.jpg so I pulled up with them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9924-M.jpg One of the nice things about riding in India is everyone is riding an Enfield. this car pulled up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9933-M.jpg noticing the bike on the roof (and the seats), I went closer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9934-M.jpg having a chuckle at the "Himalayan Off Road Rider" plate that's on it. It's definitely off-road if it's on the roof of a car. another chai stop with those Stallion guys- this is "Auntie" in the middle- she serves the chai and chats non-stop. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9936-M.jpg In India, when you meet a woman you don't know in this sort of setting (serving food etc), she gets called Auntie - a habit I quickly picked up. The guys headed off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9937-M.jpg A final problem for me before I reached Leh (capital of Ladakh) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9943-M.jpg yes, more grief from that rear tyre. I nursed the bike to this guy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9948-M.jpg who did a good job, while I watched his other customers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9944-M.jpg wandering at what point this guy will realise that it's Lefty Loosey he should be doing NOT Righty Tighty http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9945-M.jpg Phew, he got it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9946-M.jpg My cold drink preparer was this young woman http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9949-M.jpg she has a complicated long name, with Sherpa in it somewhere - she's Nepali and was closely watched by her grandmother http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9950-M.jpg __________________ |
Well done Tiffany. Loved the information and the photos!!
Mal |
Leh
Ladakh is known as the Little Tibet of India, I'd already noticed the similarities in dress, language and houses and now here was a monastery that looked like a copy of the Potala in Lhasa
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9940-M.jpg I'd reached my destination - Leh, having ridden from Dehradun in four days. I found a good place to stay - Enfield owners can't be wrong I thought as I parked alongside the others http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9954-M.jpg The rest of the garden is for growing the veggies that are served in the guesthouse restaurant http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9953-M.jpg I explore town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9952-M.jpg Get to know the local wildlife http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0021-M.jpg This poor dog looks like a cross between a dog and a sheep http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9951-M.jpg Have my chai prepared in a very 21st century manner - a bloke using a weird electronic hob whilst using a mobile phone. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0020-M.jpg Reassuringly he was still using the old fashioned method of measuring out the sugar into the pan using his hand. Nights are dark here, there is a lack of street lights, but the monasteries and stupas are lit up, looking amazing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9956-M.jpg |
I haven't read such an informative and joyful trip report before. Make me feel traveling over there .Thanks. ..
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Appreciation
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Hi Teote many thanks for the comments and appreciation, it's nice to get good feedback and I'm pleased you're enjoying the stories - I do get a lot of joy out of travelling and it's good to know that is comes across on here. Cheers Tiffany |
Khardung La - Almost
A rest day and then I was ready to hit the road once more, the mountains were calling to me and so I headed up Khardung La, the highest road in this part of the Himalayas.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9967-M.jpg An easy enough road to follow without the drama of river crossings etc, and little in the way of other traffic except the occasional dog http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9977-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9976-M.jpg But there was a dodgy moment when I found out at the checkpoint that I didn't have the correct permit. I smiled nicely and the checkpoint officer said if I left my passport with him as insurance then I could go IF...I took one of his soldiers who needed a lift up - no problem I said and so onto the Enfield's pillion jumped a sapper. We didn't get far before we had to wait for some roadworks to clear http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9961-M.jpg I was particularly taken with the bulldozer driver who resembled an IRA hitman from the 80's http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9962-M.jpg Soon after this the soldier jumped ship but his place was taken by a civilian hitch-hiker. I often give lifts to hitch-hikers on my travels and I have to say it is a lot easier in India where everyone seems to be around my height or less, unlike Scandinavia where one of my hitch-hikers was 6'8" (AND he was carrying 7 foot fishing rod). We were doing well, the Enfield's engine chugging away as we headed up the mountain road. I paused for a photo opportunity http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9963-M.jpg Hitch-hiker proudly posing with the bike and then I gave him my camera to take a picture at which point... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9965-M.jpg Damn - another puncture. |
High Altitude Tyre Tales
At 4000m with a flat tyre, heading up to Khardung La Pass - I explained the situation to my unlucky hitch-hiker, turned the bike around and limped slowly and carefully back down the mountain, I was only 3 kms from the top.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0003-M.jpg Although I had the tools etc that I needed to remove the rear wheel, which on an Enfield is pretty easy, I wasn't carrying tyre levers; so I stopped and asked the soldiers at a checkpoint for help. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9969-M.jpg They were delighted to pitch in once they realised what the issue was. Whilst I was served ginger tea, they clustered round and did the work - under my watchful gaze. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9968-M.jpg I couldn't thank them enough and promised to say hello next time I was back here. I'd used my spare tube and as I was only carrying one with me- this was just supposed to be a quick day trip, I reluctantly decided that with my current track record with punctures I'd better abandon my attempt to reach Khardung La. I retrieved my passport from the checkpoint guy and promised that I'd be back soon, then enjoyed a fast ride on the good tarmac stretches down the mountain accompanying some Scottish guys on their Enfields - racing?? Moi http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/wave.gif I was very disappointed but consoled myself with the knowledge that I'd be back in a couple of weeks with my group and we would be heading over the pass then. Back in Leh, it was time to take serious action on the puncture situation, which is how I found myself in this unusual position http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0015-M.jpg riding pillion on my own bike through the streets of Leh as a local rode my bike to the best tyre guy in town. This guy - http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0019-M.jpg We also had to sort out a couple of other issues and ended up in this workshop http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0016-M.jpg Yes - this IS a professional's workspace, I particularly enjoyed the Hindu shrine in the corner http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0017-M.jpg and the meticulously arranged tools http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0018-M.jpghttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/lol8.gif |
Heading South
View from the handlebars
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0028-M.jpg Ms Coates on the road with a serious look on her face as she has less than four days to get to Delhi from Leh http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif It was time to head south again to meet my group in Delhi, as I was re-tracing my route up, I was feeling pretty confident, especially as I was by now acclimatised a lot more to the altitude (4-5000m). But I should have known, things do not always go smoothly. To begin with: the yak with attitude in the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0029-M.jpg He stopped and gave me the evil eye a few times before moving off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0030-M.jpg he had all his mates with him and I wondered if an Enfield could outrun a herd of stampeding yak. There seemed to be less snow than on the way up which was a good sign http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0033-M.jpg Yep, had I mentioned the stunning views and scenery around every corner?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0039-M.jpg Even the Buddhist monks were impressed by their surroundings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0038-M.jpg At times I had company on the road, I was impressed by the balancing skills of this guy as he chugged along. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0031-M.jpg Not the most crisp and sharp of photos, but to be fair I was also riding along on the gravel as I snapped this quick picture. A brief stop at Pang for momos with Mama Momo and the choughs - a symbol of Cornwall (my home nation) and incredible to see them in the Himalayas http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0036-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0047-M.jpg One of my favourite spots - I'd like to try and ride my bike through the arch http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0048-M.jpg But that's just a narrow gravel footpath running up to it - and feeling a bit sensible and grown up, I decided to wait until I had someone with me to attempt it...just in case things went wrong http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
From Sunshine to Snow
View from the handlebars
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0028-M.jpg Ms Coates on the road with a serious look on her face as she has less than four days to get to Delhi from Leh http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif It was time to head south again to meet my group in Delhi, as I was re-tracing my route up, I was feeling pretty confident, especially as I was by now acclimatised a lot more to the altitude (4-5000m). But I should have known, things do not always go smoothly. To begin with: the yak with attitude in the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0029-M.jpg He stopped and gave me the evil eye a few times before moving off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0030-M.jpg he had all his mates with him and I wondered if an Enfield could outrun a herd of stampeding yak. There seemed to be less snow than on the way up which was a good sign http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0033-M.jpg Yep, had I mentioned the stunning views and scenery around every corner?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0039-M.jpg Even the Buddhist monks were impressed by their surroundings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0038-M.jpg At times I had company on the road, I was impressed by the balancing skills of this guy as he chugged along. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0031-M.jpg Not the most crisp and sharp of photos, but to be fair I was also riding along on the gravel as I snapped this quick picture. A brief stop at Pang for momos with Mama Momo and the choughs - a symbol of Cornwall (my home nation) and incredible to see them in the Himalayas http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0036-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0047-M.jpg One of my favourite spots - I'd like to try and ride my bike through the arch http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0048-M.jpg But that's just a narrow gravel footpath running up to it - and feeling a bit sensible and grown up, I decided to wait until I had someone with me to attempt it...just in case things went wrong http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
Return to Sarchu
I was feeling pretty good, I had the bulk of my journey done for the day, there were a few hold ups where trucks had got stuck
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0066-M.jpg but I was always able to slip through on my bike, unlike some countries I could mention, people were happy to shift their vehicles over a bit to allow two-wheelers to squeeze past. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0067-M.jpg some of them had been there for hours. Going around a corner, I saw a familiar face - it was Vincent from Paris, whom I'd met in Manali and was also staying at Ride Inn, he was looking very local and riding a hire bike with the standard Indian-style pannier racks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0068-M.jpg Ahead, I had another mountain pass, pausing for a celebratory picture in my usual style http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0063-M.jpg This was a bit tricky as the Enfield does not have as much width as my BMW and so it was a bit of a balancing act, and all while the precious 10 secondsself timer were ticking away on the camera http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I descended from the pass quite quickly, weird stagmites in a cave http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0075-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0076-M.jpg A cyclist took these photos of me (after I asked him) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0069-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0072-M.jpg The scenery was changing constantly, I was getting out of the snow, back to the river valley http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0080-M.jpg |
Sarchu Sojourn
In the distance, the tent settlement that is Sarchu appeared, I rode into my old camp - I'm a creature of habit and like to return to my old haunts, plus I felt grateful to the guys as they'd been so nice.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0091-M.jpg Although my tent camp appeared to be quite basic from the outside. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9898-M.jpg Inside it was a very different matter http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0086-M.jpg They'd transformed each tent with carpets and brightly coloured cushions. I'd been feeling too nauseous to take photos of the interior on the way up; but now I was feeling fine and wandered around a bit before heading to the kitchen tent in search of a cup of tea. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0087-M.jpg The three guys who run this camp live in this tent - using it for cooking, eating, sleeping and as their only shelter from the elements outside which at this high elevation can be quite harsh (4200m). My eyes adjusted to the gloom and they invited me into sit down and share some chai followed by Maggi (the ubiquitous instant noodle dish which is popular in the Himalayas) and always referred to by its trade name. To give you a better idea of the interior, I took another picture, this time using the flash on my camera http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0088-M.jpg These guys come from local towns and spend three months or so over the summer in this tent and running the camp. They arrive as soon as the passes are open and then close up shop when the snows return in force. |
Extreme Chills
It's morning at 4200m
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0092-M.jpg It's cold, the skies are overcast and it started snowing...yikes http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif I've got a lot of miles to cover today. On a journey that usually takes people two days I need to complete in just one day. The guys who run the camp are still asleep as I start up the Enfield (the electric start wasn't so keen at this altitude and in the cold so I gave it a few kicks as well). I rolled out of camp and passed through the checkpoint. The only witness to my heading up the mountain was this little fellow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0093-M.jpg A marmot. I was heading up to Baralacha, which I'd had no problems with on the way up but it does have a notorious reputation in bad weather. The snow got heavier and heavier as I rode and I did start to feel a bit apprehensive. The usually quiet roads seemed even more empty his morning - maybe everyone had heard the weather forecast in Hindi and had chosen not to travel. While Mrs Blissfully Ignorant here was riding off into a maelstrom. It was much snowier as I neared the top http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0101-M.jpg I reached the tent chai stops and pulled up feeling numb and cold. Inside the tent, everything is blue due to the blue tarps that are used as a roof. I sat in the corner and clutched my mug of steaming chai - doing my Ninja Coates impression wearing my thermal balaclava http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0099-M.jpg The women were busy in the kitchen area http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0096-M.jpg This woman was on stove duty and made me some parathas (flatbread stuffed with spice and lightly fried) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0095-M.jpg |
The Frozen Mountain
One pint of chai later and I had a new problem on my hands - the loo
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0097-M.jpg It meant scuttling out the back door, to the uninviting stone enclosure on the right, heaving the corrugated iron sheet away from the door, removing several layers of clothes and then baring my backside to the elements as I hovered over a hole in the ground. You blokes don't know when you've got it easy. Looking on the bright side as everything was frozen, there was no nasty smell from the hole in the ground. Hastily getting my clothes tucked back in I returned to the tea tent and said my goodbyes, I really didn't want to leave the warm and cosy atmosphere but I had two big mountains ahead of me. Back on the Enfield we chugged off up the hill- by this point it was blizzard conditions but I was determined to get through. It was bloody miserable, I can't begin to describe what it felt like and only managed to snatch one quick photo http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0100-M.jpg I swallowed a lot of diesel fumes as I followed the slow-moving trucks up the steep ascent with freezing water running under the wheels and grabbing dubious opportunities to overtake. Feeling paranoid the trucks weren't aware of my presence, the noise of the horn disappearing into the snow and aware that the lorry drivers were concentrating on the road ahead and the steep precipice off to the side rather than on the possibility of small bikes trying to overtake. It was grim http://advrider.com/forums/images/smilies/triste.gifhttp://advrider.com/forums/images/smilies/triste.gif At least my hands were warm, my Gerbing gloves were wired into the battery on the bike which seemed to be holding out well. I made it over Baralacha La, not pausing for even a quick look round. Down the other side which I knew was a better road BUT it had the river crossings and bloody hell were they cold http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif it had stopped snowing, the dogs watched me passing from the snow bank at the side of the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0102-M.jpg The weather cleared up a bit, and I descended below the snow line. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0105-M.jpg I'd made it http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif |
A Final Bit of Drama
I knew I was back in civilisation when the road became filled with what seemed like a thousand sheep and all going in the opposite direction, with a couple of cars resignedly trying to get through.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0104-M.jpg However, sheep were the least of my problems, I had something technical wrong. At first I had thought I'd knackered the gearbox, but then I realised it was something else....as an Airhead rider I'm used to shaft drive bikes, and have little experience with these rattling metal things called chainshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif. A few days earlier one of the Mumbai Road Stallion guys had said that my sprocket was very worn and would need replacing. Yes, I did hear him and understood but I was hoping that I'd be able to get back to Manali and then replace the sprockets. However the Enfield had other ideas, the chain had started to slip a bit on the ascent of Baralacha, by the time I reached the sheep it was getting worse and I barely made it into Khoksar. Khoksar is the final settlement before the ascent of Rohtang remember this...http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9853-S.jpg I knew I wouldn't have a hope of getting up the mountain with the way the chain was slipping over the toothless sprocket. It was time to find help. There are no mechanics in the village and so I asked around and immediately got a ride in a very small pick up truck, I got the Enfield up a bank and into the back of the truck, and then jumped in with the driver, Ali. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0106-M.jpg He was very nice but clear that he could only take me to the top of Rohtang Pass, from there on, I would be on my own. I assured him this would not be a problem as it is all downhill to Manali from there. Due to the poor weather and snowy conditions of the past 24 hours, the mountain was worse than it had been a few days previously and I luxuriated in the comfort of the truck. At the top, all was deserted with no one to help unload the bike, Ali reversed up to a snow bank http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0107-M.jpg and somehow between us we managed to get the bike out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0108-M.jpg Ali posed with my bike, even his jacket matched the paintwork. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0109-M.jpg He was not too happy with leaving me on my own, he needed to get back to his own village before dark, but I reassured him that I was used to this sort of situation and that I would be fine. Further down there would be others around. So off I went on a bike that had the world's most toothless sprocket, freewheeling all the way. I had 51 kms (30 miles) to cover and the light was not going to last long. I was back up in the snow, and passed the snow tourists http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0110-M.jpg Suffice to say, that I didn't linger to take photos, I was concentrating on getting down the mountain without engaging the gears. I managed to get one brief photo of the road ahead further down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0111-M.jpg Yep - that all looks downhill, should be OK. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0114-M.jpg It was another chapter in the Book of Ms Coates and her Nerve-Wracking Situations I finally got to Manali, luckily Ride Inn is on the north side of town, I had to push the Enfield up the lane for the final 500metres, but I had made it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9827-M.jpg This was as far as I needed to ride. From here I was getting a bus to Delhi while the bike was having a workshop visit and would be trucked to our rendezvous at Parwanoo in the foothills. I had mixed emotions, the intensity of the past 10 days on my own had been immense, from the challenge of the blizzards and overtaking the lorries on the rutted tracks to crossing the rivers solo. As always I had a sense of "Yes, I've done it" but also a sense of sadness that this part of the adventure was over, there was no snow outside of the window, in fact it felt positively balmy. And now I was about to head to one of the worlds largest, most chaotic and congested cities. I'd miss the mountains. But ahead is a whole new adventure with my all-female group of riders, leading them up to the mountains; retracing the route I'd just ridden but at a more sensible pace. |
The Rest of the Ladies Join Me
And now it's the turn of my intrepid group.
I had made the return journey to Manali and taken an overnight bus out of the mountains and down to Delhi and experienced other forms of public transport including the tuk-tuks (or auto rickshaws as they're referred to in India) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0117-M.jpg It was quite an introduction to the roads of India when someone else is driving - they have 145cc CNG driven engines and most are pretty rusty with holes in the floor. But what a great ride, they have the most incredible turning circle and the drivers are fearless in the heaving chaotic mass that passes for traffic in this hugely congested city. I met up with my group as they flew in, the jet lag soon disappeared, though not helped by the extremely high temperatures, Delhi was hot at 46 degrees centigrade (114 Fahrenheit). We had a look around the city http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0116-M.jpg This is where industrial amounts of curry are produced. we went a bit more upmarket for our meals, including this place with the great doorman http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0118-M.jpg We drove out of Delhi on a minibus, though some of the traffic looks quite civilised http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0119-M.jpg We would be getting on our bikes some miles away in the foothills of the Himalayas, where it's a bit cooler and quieter In the meantime, we enjoyed the sights as we were driven http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0120-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2476-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0122-M.jpg With our first mountain hotel not only having great views but also a pool with a view and cold beers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0124-M.jpg the serious business was about to get underway - http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0126-M.jpg I was reunited with my beloved blue Enfield, while the others were introduced to their Royal Enfield Bullets. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0127-M.jpg I soon got them into the swing of things http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...6W/0/M/a-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0132-M.jpg |
On Your Marks, Get Set...Go
One added advantage when I'm travelling with a group is that I get more pictures of me (it may be dubious as to whether you feel that's an advantage or not) I also get involved in more comedy moments, and here is one of them - a sneak preview of a couple of weeks down the line
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg Yes folks, it's Ms Coates with Giant Loop luggage on a camel. Way before all that though my group were put through their paces in a carpark as they got used to riding the Enfields and memorising the mantra "Do NOT grab front brake" http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0154-M.jpg slow control - always important http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0163-M.jpg I start to feel like we're a mini-biker gang http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0157-M.jpg And the crowds got bigger and bigger as they gathered to watch Ladies on Motorbikes - the Bullet is the most powerful bike in India and is considered highly unsuitable for women. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0158-M.jpg We're happy with our riding, and with our Ladies in Ladakh T-Shirts, and head off for dinner and a couple of beers to wash it down with. the next morning sees us up early and hitting the road...with caution http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0006-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0008-M.jpg |
On the Road
The view for my group
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0098-M.jpg It's not often I get to see what the view is like for my groups as they follow me. The foothills of the Himalayas have few major towns and reasonably quiet roads as well as some cooler weather which is a big relief for us. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0182-M.jpg We can take things easy, as we don't have too many miles to go- and of course it's great t be overseas and yet still be riding on the left http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0181-M.jpg At the risk of being accused of lulling my group into a false sense of security, I have to post up this picture - rather shocking one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0183-M.jpg Showing not only a smart looking car but also a decent road AND it's got road markings http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif a bit of a change from what lies ahead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0100-S.jpg but we'll worry about conditions like that when we get to them. In the meantime it was all smiles http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0184-M.jpg and a chance to stop for chats and to take photos http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0185-M.jpg If the guys in the garage had been surprised before when I turned up on my Enfield, they were even more surprised to see a whole group of ladies on Enfields http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0173-M.jpg Roadworks, so we had to stop http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0178-M.jpg and in typical European (and Indian style) we filtered through up to the front - something I have been told off about in America on many occasions by car drivers who have been almost incandescent with rage. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0177-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0189-M.jpg We did have a bit of rough riding to do, on the road leading to our hotel in Shimla http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0212-M.jpg It was dirt surface and wet and also seemed to run through the local rubbish dump, so the worst part was the smell http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif and into the hotel carpark http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0226-M.jpg A debrief then we piled into a taxi to get to the top of the hill in Shimla http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0229-M.jpg |
Awesome
Great stuff girls:mchappy:
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Girls on wheels ....
Hi Tiffany.
Loved your epic solo run to Leh & back, well done :thumbup1: Have done that run in 2000 & gotta say it looks just the same, right down to signs & little blue tents:rolleyes: Though have to admit must have taken the economy one, don't remember posh cushions etc ... :confused1: But do remember the beauty, the silence, the cold :freezing: but most of all the feeling afterwards on getting back down to Manila, just super :clap: Tell the girls to have a good time this is summit that they will remember for a long time. Stay safe & keep the rubber side down :scooter: Have fun Vince |
Tiffany i know this ride is done and dusted ,but i must say i really enjoyed seeing your photo's .Magnificent country .On the toilet thing ,have you considered a she wee? a lady friend said they are useful at times .The size of bikes in India must have some exceptions as i know of a couple of guys with big Harleys ,i believe KTM have a presence there too.Anyhow till next time regards Noel:D
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Amazing Recce
Tiffany congratulations on making a reconnaissance trip look like a once in a lifetime adventure. You are one tough cookie and being out there doing it solo myself gives me a whole new appreciation of your travels and the times between the photos. There are still 24 hours in a day to fill.
I can't wait to read about the group trip when the adventure REALLY starts!! I'm also realising the challenges at keeping up consistent report writing!!:confused1: Thanks for your amazing efforts. PN |
Feedback
more great feedback - many thanks folks.
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as for the presence of big bikes over here - it's an immense country with a massive population, I've heard there are a few large foreign bikes in a couple of the big cities but not many people have come across them. Quote:
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Exploring Shimla
Overlooking the town of Shimla is this huge statue of Hanuman
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0236-M.jpg Rather naughtily I angled my camera and managed to get a picture of it seemingly on top of the Anglican Cathedral! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0251-M.jpg It's always good to have a break from being on the bikes and a chance to look around The Welcome banners were up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0243-M.jpg An unusual combination of Che Guevara and ...hmmm, I'm not sure who the other guy is supposed to be. From this angle, Shimla looks very typical of semi-tropical towns with its corrugated iron roofs. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0238-M.jpg But then on closer inspection the mock-tudor buildings and British signs give away its heritage as a British Raj Hill Station http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0137-M.jpg To be honest, I'm not much of a person for seeing the sights, I prefer the quirkiness of local life in remote places, which is why I took a photo of these guys at work http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0240-M.jpg They're constructing the platform that they're perched on high above the street http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0241-M.jpg Some buildings need a bit more than a couple of guys with planks of wood and nails http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0244-M.jpg Monkeys were everywhere http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0247-S.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0246-S.jpg showing off their athletic leaps and one actually abseiled down a telephone line from the top of the pole, but I wasn't quick enough with my camera for that one. Food being sold on the street - some more familiar than others http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0257-M.jpg And then back on to the bikes the next morning http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0077-M.jpg |
Gorgeous Gorge Riding
We're on the road and things are starting to get a bit more interesting as we enter a large gorge, with the road hugging the sheer cliff sides. Other bikes are also on this route.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg A route that takes us past some shops http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2534-M.jpg A typical Himalayan bridge http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0292-M.jpg Barbara walks across it first with two young women who we'd been talking to http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0284-M.jpg Take a deep breath, close you eyes and just go for it! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2535-M.jpg I do a demonstration ride http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2542-M.jpg And mind the other traffic while you're on it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0287-M.jpg A cold drink stop is required after that riding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2563-M.jpg And then continuing along the gorge - it looks great and it is, just not particularly when there are blind bends with buses and trucks coming the other way, the food vendors pushing their carts along and of course the random cows wandering around http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2549-M.jpg |
Manali
Our destination for the night is the town of Mandi and our hotel is on the banks of the river, a chance to relax and enjoy watching the river whilst having a chat and a cold beer on the hotel terrace
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0250-M.jpg We take some unorthodox routes at times http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0296-M.jpg which is all part of the fun in India. Also getting up close with some of the animals http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0294-M.jpg Typical traffic on the road - this trio on their bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0311-M.jpg A lunch stop on the banks of the river, and Jill who rows for her village gig rowing team and is always interested in all things rowing poses with an oar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0308-M.jpg Another riverside activity is this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0339-M.jpg Hanging above the rapids suspended from a couple of cables and being bounced up and down into the raging water below - it looked a lot of fun and I'd like to give it a go sometime, just ran out of time on this trip. We'd reached Manali, the start of the trickier sections of riding and a very picturesque town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0315-M.jpg Lots to see, particularly in the old parts of town, where there are many traditional buildings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0329-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0328-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0330-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0335-M.jpg |
Manali Meanderings
Thanks folks, good to have you along on the ride - maybe next year Karen (duchess) you might join us for real - I've seen you in action with Si Pavey, I know you can do this http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif
Meanwhile, in Manali, we're getting to the end of our sightseeing and I appear to be having problems with my camera http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg Maybe I need one of these for good luck - it's the chillies dangling from the front grille - I think it's called a puja and they're to ward off evil http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0324-M.jpg Here's a close up of it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0325-M.jpg For decades, Manali has been on the Hippy Trail, and here was proof that they are still alive and kicking http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0336-M.jpg A brief pause outside a hairdresser's salon - I loved the posters http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0340-M.jpg We have an evening of relaxation, a meal at Chopsticks, and a wander on the streets of Manali which seem to really come to life after dark when the snow tourists are out and about. A genuine Indian head massage is on offer here - though to be fair, it does look a bit more sinister than that. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0321-M.jpg My personal favourite were the rabbits http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0318-M.jpg Kids were queuing up to hold them and have a picture taken (for a fee), though to my eye they looked a bit nasty - more General Woundwort than Thumper - I watched Watership Down at an impressionable age. They're angora rabbits which they comb and use the fur for knitting. On the other side of the street, Barbara was in demand as a photographic model, being asked by lots of different families to pose for photos with them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0320-M.jpg off to bed early as tomorrow it's back on the bikes, as we head out of town on this bridge http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0322-M.jpg __________________ |
Introduction to Off-Roading - the Coates Way
It was time to get dirty- some off-road riding practice for my group - some of whom have only ever ridden on the smooth tarmac of the UK http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif
we cross the bridge out of town and take to some quiet roads out of Manali http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0346-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0355-M.jpg lots of concentration as I take them through gravel, sand, dust and small river crossings not to mention narrow tracks around the hillside Past women washing clothes by the street http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0327-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0372-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0374-M.jpg We arrive at Ride Inn Just Ride Inn A place that I'd stayed at on my way up. We parked alongside the other Enfields where another group had just arrived back from Ladakh http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0316-M.jpg We made our way up to the terrace café bar where everything is made from parts of motorbikes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0369-M.jpg Including the ashtrayshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif We found the map on the wall very useful __________________ http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0371-M.jpg there are various inspirational travel quotes on the walls http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0366-M.jpg a chance for Barbara to relax and enjoy a cold drink http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0367-M.jpg |
Dirt Achieved
While at Ride Inn, we got a bit star-struck when we recognised Vinod who appears in the great bike travel film One Crazy Ride
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0370-M.jpg Take a look here to see more about it - some incredible bridge riding. Dirt Track Productions - One Crazy Ride It was time to head back into town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0386-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0376-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0375-M.jpg More confident riding all round http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0378-M.jpg Safely back at the hotel, I celebrate our off-road prowess with a bottle of beer and a sigh of relief - I know I can get them over the Himalayas http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0391-M.jpg Then out to dinner, where we are joined by Moksha Jetley - local rider, bike guide and a legend, she has just completed the gruelling ride from Leh to Manali non-stop in one day, it took her 20 hours - an incredible feat. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0393-M.jpg She is also great fun and full of energy, we enjoyed chatting to her about life in India - as a female rider. |
Rohtang
Up early the next morning, we load up and off we head, this is the mountain that is in our sights - Rohtang.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0399-M.jpg As we leave town, the streets are lined with shops like these that cater to the snow tourists - hiring out snowsuits to those venturing up to see this strange white stuff at the top of the mountain http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0359-M.jpg We start to ascend -safety barriers are an unknown concept over here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0417-M.jpg It's a beautiful ride http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0408-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2587-M.jpg Then conditions start to deteriorate, we're above the tree line and the snow appears http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0432-M.jpg This is when the riding really does start to get tricky http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2590-M.jpg We're riding through slippery mud on the edge of a 200 foot drop with cars inching along next to us There's a bit of a bottleneck ahead, you can see the queue of traffic waiting to get down and around the bend which is virtually snow covered. And on the other side of the cars we hear some cheery Aussie voices http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0418-M.jpg It's a honeymoon couple from Melbourne in Australia, who have chosen to ride across the Himalayas on a tandem bike. We have time for a quick chat and then we move on, through the fast-flowing water on the corner and over the rocks and boulders that litter the ground. Far too dodgy for me to take a photo. But this is Barbara's face immediately AFTER she got through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0419-M.jpg I'm so proud of my riders getting safely through this first major obstacle. At the top is a lot more snow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0426-L.jpg __________________ |
SnowY Exploits
Snow everywhere
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0425-M.jpg and snow tourists as well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0_041723-M.jpg We'd stopped close to the top- the worst was behind us (for the moment) and we wanted to get our breath back - a bit of a mistake at 4600m where oxygen is scarce. We were also fascinated by the snow tourists who flock up here from the hot plains . Above is a picture showing racks of fur coats for rent. and here are some of the tourists, horseback rides and sledging being just some of the varied activities on offer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2595-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2596-M.jpg we took some photos and I get well and truly photo-bombed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2600-M.jpg Hmm, a bit over-friendly, not sure if it's the rather fetching balaclava that did it for him http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif we found some more normal people who wanted some photos with us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0_042307-M.jpg The woman in yellow is on her honeymoon, accompanied by not only her new husband but also various other members of the family. |
More Snowy Exploits
We'd entered a whole new snowy world and we were pretty excited at reaching the top of Rohtang, knowing that we would be leaving all the endless streams of snow tourist cars behind as we descended the other side. First we had to make the most of being in the snow
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0_050414-M.jpg Some bike and snow pictures were called for - but first we had to get into position http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0_050458-M.jpg Result!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0428-M.jpg I attempted to ride on snow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2618-M.jpg with limited success. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0424-M.jpg A final hurrah - we've made it. Then off down the mountain http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0423-M.jpg |
She'll Be Coming Round the Mountain
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The descent from Rohtang, quite different from the ascent as there is very little traffic, but the road conditions are worse. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0440-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0438-M.jpg We had some dodgy moments on river crossings, then as the snow disappeared, the mud got worse http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0447-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0446-M.jpg Luckily things started to dry out - but the steep curves still meant we were unable to fully appreciate our surroundings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0448-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0450-M.jpg I was extremely impressed (and proud) with everyone's riding - with minimal off-roading experience, here they were tackling gravel and slippery mud on narrow, high roads teetering on the edge of steep precipices. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0449-M.jpg It takes a very steady nerve to do that kind of riding.http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif |
Great!!! Must get back and do this route again. The Leh to Srinagar via Zanskar is fantastic too. If only you could buy some sort of small dual-sport in India, but I guess Enfields are part of the experience.
:scooter: |
Still Coming Down the Mountain
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We start to go a bit faster because we know there's a cup of tea waiting in the village at the foot of the mountain http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0451-M.jpg Just a couple more water crossings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0462-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0463-L.jpg The track we're on starts to resemble more of a road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0458-M.jpg We know the village is down there somewhere, the ride is starting to feel a bit endless. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0459-M.jpg We made it, and stop at the first tea shop we spot http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0466-M.jpg A welcome break with cups of tea in the sunshine and warmth - and phew, almost normal levels of oxygen in the air. _____ |
Headlong to Keylong
Jackets and helmets back on, we get back on the bikes
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0470-M.jpg Negotiating the narrow alley past the tea shop http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0469-M.jpg We were pleased to see tarmac http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0476-M.jpg there were even bridges over the rivers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0472-M.jpg some more modern than others http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0484-M.jpg But we still had the occasional reminder of snow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0482-M.jpg That is a massive snow bank hanging over the edge of the road. The final approach to the village of Keylong - and our destination for the night included squeezing past a bulldozer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0486-M.jpg One bike stalled as it passed and hit the bulldozer - but these are Enfields and we think the bulldozer came off worse. It did mean that the rest of us were a bit more cautious http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0487-M.jpg and before we knew it, we were checking in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0490-M.jpg We sat out on the balcony of our third floor rooms, admiring the views http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2654-L.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0140-L.jpg Life couldn't get any better...or could it? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg A plate of the best vegetable pakora I'd eaten so far http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif We were still at more than 3000m, and at these altitudes, and after the riding we'd done, simple tasks are tiring - hence the lying down to clean teeth! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2652-M.jpg Phew, our group had made it safely over the first big mountain pass - I could relax...at least until tomorrow. |
Aquatic Armaggedon
Early morning and we're on the road, continuing northwards and with the dreaded Baralacha La ahead of us (the scene of my high altitude blizzard ride).
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0495-M.jpg To the group's delight it wasn't all gravel tracks- we did have some nice tarmac as I'd promised them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0492-M.jpg The checkpoint guy was very helpful and friendly, though he seems to have a problem smiling for the camera - he's based in a tent next to the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0497-M.jpg There are even signposts/stones http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0493-M.jpg And then it was Armaggedon - we'd reached the river crossings, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves..but rest assured that NONE of my riders dropped their bikes in the water - well done team http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0501-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0502-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0503-M.jpg Barbara takes the full-steam ahead approach to any water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0504-M.jpg Another rider had a few problems and I waded in to help out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2675-M.jpg One of the scary things is the way that the other traffic didn't even pause - it ploughed on through, just a few feet from the fallen rider in fast-flowing water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...1_054304-M.jpg And then the pillion riders appeared - as I'd walked through, I shouted advice about how strong the water was flowing and not to underestimate it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0510-M.jpg And then waded in to help them as they were in danger of being swept away. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2668-M.jpg The end result being... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0505-M.jpg Boots full of water http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif __________________ |
The Snow is Beckoning
Things are still somewhat on the soggy side...
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2687-M.jpg We had got through the worst of the river crossings, and were now facing lots of water on a very broken-up road - you can see how fast flowing it is as it flows over my feet. Luckily a bridge has been constructed over this particular river http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0511-M.jpg and then we found ourselves in quite a dry valley, high up above the river http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0513-M.jpg A flock of sheep and goats lurked alongside the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0512-M.jpg It always amazes me the minimal amounts of grass and how so many animals can live on it. We'd been following road signs promising ZingZing Bar ahead, and we finally reached this oasis of roadside refreshments after many miles of nothing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0518-M.jpg The reality of ZingZing Bar is... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2689-M.jpg A roadside tent with a bench outside and no hint of alcohol http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0517-M.jpg Three bowls of Maggi noodles were swiftly served up and equally swiftly consumed as we sat in the sunshine enjoying the warmth. With a great slogan signpost next to it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2693-M.jpg It's the shortest of breaks as we've still got a rather large mountain ahead of us...plus more snow again http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0521-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2698-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0530-M.jpg As we passed the frozen lake - now not quite as frozen as it had been when I passed it two weeks ago http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0525-M.jpg |
Heading Up
We're ascending Baralacha, accompanied by the usual slow moving lorries
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0519-M.jpg Tiresome to overtake, but at least we're still on tarmac...for the momenthttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0520-M.jpg We're enjoying the beauty of the wintry landscape around us, and still feeling quite warm http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2701-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2700-M.jpg We make it! Such a contrast to my previous visit in a raging blizzard at sub-zero temperatures. My joy at being there in such wonderful conditions is contagious and I get the others to agree to a short trek across the snow and rocks for a summit photo http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2719-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0539-M.jpg Up we go http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0549-M.jpg We made it!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0546-M.jpg |
Wifey interested in this tour- what do you charge please and what does the price include?
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Been worried about where you have got to since there have been no updates on your blog since Sept 8th.
CARRY ON! |
How to Join Me Next Year
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Price - I'm really not sure, but the details are on the HC Travel website as they are the guys who do all the logistics. I do know that the price includes accommodation and full-board, bike hire, support vehicle and what is an unbelievably fantastic riding experience. Next year we are due to do the run in August. here is the run down - though this is from 2014's tour, they are about to update it for 2015. Ladakh Ladies I look forward to riding with her :) Best wishes |
Where Am I?
Quote:
Thank you for the concern, and my apologies for the lack of input on my website blog - as I explained in the other thread, I got caught up in more travels before I had finished this Ride Tale, so things got a bit behind and then I started having problems updating my own blog, some sort of bug in the system I think. I am alive and well and have just recently been riding in Rapa Nui http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1020087-M.jpg which has been amazing - but that will be a Ride Tale of its own :mchappy: |
Still up the Mountain
We're up on the top of the mountain pass and we met this very nice man
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0532-M.jpg Never accept sweets off strangers, but when you're this far from the rest of the world, it doesn't matter He's also a guide and we enjoyed looking at our reflection in his sunglasses http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0533-M.jpg The local dogs trotted past, not interested in us and obviously on their way somewhere - though we were miles and miles from any settlement. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0534-M.jpg A check over for one of the bikes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0555-M.jpg We lingered for a while, which gave me the opportunity to take my boots off and demonstrate just how wet my feet still were http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0538-M.jpg then back on the bikes it's time to head down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg |
Herding Cats...
......in an attempt to get a picture that would truly reflect the staggering amount of snow around us and the beauty iof it all, I tried to organise my excited riders, as they say, there are some things in life that are easier than herding cats and this may have been one of them
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg I´ve ridden ahead and am now trying to direct http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0556-M.jpg Almost there http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0188-M.jpg And finally I get a nice picture of the team in the snow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...MG_0559-XL.jpg |
Mountain Life
Just to prove that you get the warts and all story
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0567-M.jpg This was the sight of my bike after I had kicked the side stand down and run to help one of my riders who was on the verge of dropping her bike in some water. I pushed away too hard and fast, leaving my bike toppling over the side as I ran back to my sttricken rider. No harm done and some helping hands to get her upright again. soon back on our way again http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2700-M.jpg we were getting tired and feet are going down a bit more than they should do http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0569-M.jpg when the welcome sight of the chai tents appeared http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2730-M.jpg we pull up and go inside the blue tinted shelters http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0575-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0576-M.jpg Mugs of hot chai all round, and then we go in search of a loo... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0570-M.jpg and for a closer look at what it's like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0571-M.jpg This was the neighbour one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0572-M.jpg it was around this time that I seriously considered doing a FaceBook page entitled "Loos of Ladakh" this is how the family keep their toothbrushes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0574-M.jpg |
The Road to Leh
Early morning, and we're awoken by a snuffling outside of the tent
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0616-M.jpg A marmot has come over to see who we are http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0615-M.jpg We didn't feel too ready to get up yet, and were suffering fromt he aches and pains of yesterday, but the stunning surroundings soon made us forget any sore spots The view from our tent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0621-M.jpg Loading up the bikes for a big day http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0629-M.jpg we're riding through to Leh today and it's going to be a long day http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0634-M.jpg not even the lorries put us off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0636-L.jpg a couple of summits to reach, with the first one being pleasantly free from snow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0639-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0640-M.jpg and on to what looks like Monument Valley or thereabouts http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0642-M.jpg |
Pang
Pang
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...2_074032-M.jpg And the Home of momo heaven (Tibetan-style dump0lings), here is my friend Padma making them for us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0646-M.jpg I have a copy of the In-flight magazine with me, it has an article about Cornwall (home nation) and I share it with Padma and her family - http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2775-M.jpg it's quite interesting to read about Cornwall from an Indian point of view, the magazine also has pictures of my village - they are amazed at the sight of the ocean pictures. An Army truck goes past while we're eating http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0647-M.jpg It's starting to cloud over when we set off again http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2905-M.jpg Luckily there are some very straight stretches of road as we have reached the high plateau (this means we can cover some ground quite quickly) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0649-L.jpg This is nomad country and their yurts are scattered around http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0652-M.jpg another summithttp://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0660-M.jpg but it's actually quite cold here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0658-M.jpg we want to get a photo of us all together, and spot another bike traveller, I go over to ask him if he'll take a picture for us and he greets me with a smile and says "Hello Tiffany" http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0659-M.jpg I'm somewhat surprised - after all we are at one of the remotest and highest points in the world, it turns out he's a FaceBook friend of mine and recognised me - despite all layers of clothing I'm bundled up in. we get the photo [IMG]http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0655-M.jpg[/IMG] |
High to Low
The temperature had dropped a lot, shivering, we set off, to be faced by a sea of freezing mud- just wet enough to be slick and slippery
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0661-M.jpg we kept to the edge as we made our way down- the safest place to be where the mud wasn't deep, but bear in mind that we're supposed to be riding on the left! and there is a sheer drop of several hundred feet just to our right http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0662-M.jpg To our relief, the mud was replaced by tarmac after a few miles, the tarmac a bit patchy, and various sections of roadworks. It's a harsh life for the workers, living in tents at the side of the road at altitudes of 4000m. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0664-M.jpg Some of the workers are women, we stopped for a quick chat with these ladies of Ladakh who had put aside their pick axes for a tea break http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0663-M.jpg I passed on some chocolate and some posh hotel toiletries that I had acquired from our hotel down the valley. To our delight at the bottom of the mountain was a herd of yak http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0670-M.jpg With a photogenic baby one being guarded by its Mum - she charged briefly at another tourist who went too close http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0668-L.jpg Dry landscape with trees ahead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2971-M.jpg and time for another chai break http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0672-M.jpg and another picturesque loo http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0671-M.jpg We knew we were in Little Tibet when we saw our fist stupas http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0674-M.jpg and the final stretch of beautiful road leading to Leh http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0676-M.jpg |
Leh
It was a relief to be off the mountain roads, following the river valley with its sweeping curves rather than the torturous hairpin bends of the mountain passes.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0677-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0679-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0682-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0684-M.jpg Thikse Monastery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0688-M.jpg and its tourist monks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2807-M.jpg There are a lot of Buddhist monks around as the Dalai Lama is in town, there are various posters welcoming him http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0696-M.jpg The smooth tarmac was a delight to ride on, we finally made our way into Leh http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0694-M.jpg And a welcome cold beer on the steps of our hotel http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0690-L.jpg |
Life in Leh
Monasteries on every mountain side
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0699-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0700-M.jpg# Animals on every corner, from puppies to donkeys http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0693-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0702-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0695-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0706-M.jpg A friendly shopkeeper http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0691-M.jpg Who needs an electronic till when you can have a cardboard box of money And strange goods being sold in the shops http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0703-M.jpg I think it's sugar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0704-M.jpg __________________ |
Moving On
We've been sharing a support vehicle with another group, and in that group are two Americans. It's early morning on the 4th of July and with secret preparations underway, we greet John and Gary at breakfast
The Ladies of Ladakh present their Comb Choir rendition of the Star Spangled Banner http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-L.jpg Luckily for us we had our secret weapon in the form of Barbara who is a church organist and played her tissue paper comb instrument at perfect pitch with the rest of us struggling to stay in tune, whilst US flags tethered to oranges flew on the table. then back into bike gear and onto the road, we're heading west out of town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0731-M.jpg Enjoying the stunning scenery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0709-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0730-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0735-M.jpg and feeling a bit more relaxed in our riding - we know we won't be encountering snow, ice or even high altitude on these sections of riding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0742-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0746-M.jpg A small town lunch break http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0749-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0748-M.jpg and one more mountain http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0760-M.jpg One of our favourite roads of the trip - the Old Road up to Lamayuru Monastery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0763-M.jpg |
Lamayuru Monastery
This is the beautiful road we were riding up
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0765-L.jpg One of my favourite roads in the world, and virtually no other vehicles on it as we rode together. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0767-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0770-M.jpg The final stretch of road up to Lamayuru Monastery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2924-M.jpg And up to the monastery itself http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0806-M.jpg We go in, leaving our shoes outside http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2936-M.jpg some of the monks we spoke to http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2838-M.jpg I get in a bit of practice with a prayer wheel http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0809-M.jpg |
Motorbikes and Monasteries
I'm loving riding in our group- as you all know I do a lot of my travels solo, and I also work as a tour guide and ride with mixed groups, though mostly blokes. This is the first time I've had an all-female riding group and we have a lot of fun and laughs together.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2889-M.jpg Sometimes, I'm not sure just why the photo was taken :) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0773-M.jpg We're heading onward in search of more monasteries http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%283%29-L.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0835-M.jpg this looks liek a good one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0836-M.jpg This monastery was having somework done on it, amongst the male workers was a woman, with her toddler child alongside her http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0781-M.jpg A sobering moment, watching this very young child working by her side and copying everything that she did http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0792-M.jpg I give a hand to some of the rock carriers and manage about a quarter fo what they carry http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2963-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0800-M.jpg the view from our room at the monastery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0783-M.jpg Follow the Monk... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0782-L.jpg |
Ladakhi Life
The more eagle-eyed amongst you may have noticed that our bikes are now adorned with Tibetan prayer flags - we match our surroundings
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0831-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0818-M.jpg A short roadside chat about our route http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0820-M.jpg We stopped for a chai at this very friendly guesthouse http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2893-M.jpg always trying to get the pictures that are a bit different http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2947-M.jpg and this was the result http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0797-M.jpg I made friends with this little girl http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0780-M.jpg "Tiff's gone THAT way"! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0812-L.jpg |
Himalayas
The Himalayas, my favourite mountain range
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2905-L.jpg We're in an area to the west of Leh, capital of Ladakh. Enfields are THE bike to ride out here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0776-M.jpg and I'm particularly proud of my blue one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2882-M.jpg We're fuelled by regular chai (tea) stops http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2896-M.jpg I'm not too sure why parachutes feature so prominently as a building material out here. another aspect of life on the road are fairly regular checkpoints http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2884-M.jpg Roads are a bit rough and ready in places, often without tarmac, and when there is a smooth surface there are other perils to look out for http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0814-M.jpg Regular stops to look around temples - http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2950-M.jpg boots off at the door http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0833-M.jpg and always the lure of the road ahead of us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2976-M.jpg After that stretch of new road, there are smiles all round http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0840-M.jpg We've paused to look at and get photos of this merging of two rivers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0838-M.jpg We'd been following the clear Indus river for quite some time, at this point it meets the muddy looking Zanskar river. And another shot from my favourite pictures folder http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0813-L.jpg |
Riding back to Lah
Riding back to Leh
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0825-M.jpg I'm trying to work out which will be the best route to take, we've got the option of a bridge ahead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2971-M.jpg and we're also on the lookout for a clandestine al fresco loo stop! several of us plus lookouts mean we end up looking like a bunch of meerkats. Definitely NO photos of THAT moment http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif This MUST be the right road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0837-M.jpg WE turn around to get some photos of us without our helmets on so that our faces are more visible http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0822-M.jpg and here we are http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0823-M.jpg My beautiful bike in all its glory, it was around this point that I tempted fate by talking about my multiple punctures during my solo ride up here - amazingly NONE of us have had any. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0826-M.jpg A meal stop at an outdoor restaurant where I get through a bucket full of dahl (lentil curry) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0834-M.jpg Chatting to some locals, who are as usual, incredulous that we're an all-female group. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2934-M.jpg We get back to Leh, stop long enough to go in search of cocktails and then it's back on the road heading north to Khradung La - the highest road pass in the world. |
Khardung La
#http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0843-M.jpg
worth having to post it twice as it was a beauty of a road we were riding - straight up to Khardung La, the highest road pass in the world.It's not too far from Leh, but we managed to have a few stories to tell along the way. first an unofficial checkpoint, where all non-Ladakhi number plate vehicles were having to queue up, explain them selves AND pay money to proceed. I merely played our matrimonial trump card, announcing "our husbands will sort it out" and sailing right through with my group behind me, and a casual flick of my plaits as I went.. Round the corner I told the group we were now officially on the run and had better put on a bit of speed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2990-M.jpg which wasn't hard, because most of the time there was almost no traffic - the pic above was just a blip. the road looked great as we looked down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0842-M.jpg the next checkpoint was an official one and so we stopped to show our papers and permits http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0846-M.jpg and also to say hello to my friends there. The previous time I had ridden through, I'd had a puncture and the soldiers had helped out. remember this scene... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9969-M.jpg The guys were delighted to see me back again, I gave them photos of our time together (a puncture at 4000m can be a very bonding experience). and they rustled up some refreshments served on a tray - which impressed my ladies http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0848-M.jpg we had a loo stop as well, and were a bit intrigued (and amused) by the sign on this loo http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0847-M.jpg we tried to imagine what a female urinal would look like (lock on door prevented closer inspection) However as we were not female officers, access was denied and we were sent to the Other Ranks zone, where bad news awaited me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0849-M.jpg Luckily, there was an unlabelled loo in the vicinity which we could make use of. However I am refusing to put pics of three separate loos on one page :) |
Success!
We bade faewell to our military hosts, ahead it starts to get a bit more tricky. Pausing to take photos, I sent my ladies on in front of me - only a guide (or an anxious mother) can spot her brood on the road - look carefully
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0854-L.jpg It's difficult enough just spotting the road to be fair http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif we did have one nasty moment when we realised we had lost Barbara, and our calls echoed round the mountain side as I headed back down to find her. A wrong gear at a crucial moment had caused her to fall - luckily NOT over the precipice and then as she got her breath back, a nice family stopped and offered to help her pick up her bike. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0855-M.jpg We rode on a bit more cautiously - but our nemesis soon made itself known in the form of a comvoy of Army trucks - ten of them, driving slowly up the twisting road which is so narrow and gravelly that it is impossible to overtake much of the time. It was a case of deep breath, thumb on horn and hope for the best as I overtook each one. I'm afraid in a situation like this, it's every woman for themselves as we each risked going perilously close to the edge at every attempt to overtake - and rememebr, we're having to do it 10 times eachhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif Plus deal with the frustrated car drivers who have got trapped behind and between the trucks and are having even more issues overtaking. I'm ahead once more and look back at scenes like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0850-M.jpg and this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0852-M.jpg At which point my chest swells with pride, that some of these riders who have never even ridden off-road before coming to India are undertaking manoeuvres like this with such confidence - Go Girlshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif And we make it...we reach the highest pass in the world - Khardung La http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...MG_0859-XL.jpg |
What goes up...
I've got a feeling that I used that as a title previously - but hey, we're in the Himalayas and these are the highest mountains in the world and so there is a LOT of going up and down.
We'd been bathed in sunshine and warmth on the way up the southern side of Khardung La, now we were facing the northern side and it was not so welcoming with snow and ice piled up, reminiscent of our ride over Baralacha La http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0861-M.jpg we tucked our heads down and just got on with getting the bikes down, slipping and sliding a bit, concious that the Nemesis Army trucks had overtaken us while we were doing our photo shoot at the sign. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0860-M.jpg That was the only opportunity I had to take photos as we rode through the snow, I shepherded (shouldn't that be shepherdessed?) my group down until we were out of the snow and meltwater, onto flatter ground and able to look around us a bit more http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%283%29-L.jpg Thanks to Sachin Rana fo rthis shot, my favourite solo riding picture from thsi trip, with yak grazing in the background and I seem to be grinning at something, possible just the relief that we've all made it safely down out of the snow; or perhaps because we've stumbled onto something. Because on the other side of that massive mountain known as Khardung La is a veritable Shangri La, a warm green oasis of lush fileds and gardens. We hadn't seen greenery since leaving Manali which felt like weeks ago. This was the sight that met our eyes as we entered the Nubra Valley http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0889-M.jpg and it got better http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...MG_0878-Th.jpghttp://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...MG_0876-Th.jpg We're heading into the green Nubra Valley http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%283%29-M.jpg A lunch stop where even the loo has a lovely view http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0875-M.jpg We're feeling very relaxed after our lunch, and make the most of the green grass - it really is a novelty for us after the dry. high altitude landscapes we've been in since leaving Manali. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...6_090640-M.jpg we even do a bit of boot comparing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...6_090744-M.jpg and then we hear the ominous sound of the Nemesis Army trucks getting ahead for the third time. Time to get moving. However what we didn't realise is that despite the fact we had just ridden through the snow and ice up at the pass, ahead of us is this... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1064-M.jpg less than two hours ride from that wintry landscape, here is a different kind of riding peril - SANDhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif Scenes more reminiscent of the Sahara Desert http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1057-M.jpg But they're a surprise that lie somewhere down the road, first we've got those lorries to deal with - again! |
Nubra Valley
Up on the hillsides, it's still quite a dry landscape
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0894-M.jpg the roads are not in great condition, but the lack of traffic means we can make reasonable speed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0885-M.jpg and then around the next corner, what's lurking there waiting for us? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0891-M.jpg The dreaded Army lorries, 10 of them in convoy and they've been dogging our steps all day leading to hurried chai stops and speedy departures. It takes some time due to the twists and turns of the road, but we manage to get past them, and are able once more to look around and enjoy the views- what a spectacular landscape http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg High on the mountainside overlooking us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0964-M.jpg A 32 metre(100 feet) statue of Buddha - at the Diskit Monastery, we only ride past for the moment, we'll get a chance to see it closer tomorrow. and finally reach our destination for the day http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0901-M.jpg - at the far end of the Nubra Valley where there is a lovely hotel in a peaceful setting. Barbara does her Rapunzel impression from one of the rooms. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0898-M.jpg |
Nubra Valley 2
We're at the far end of the Nubra Valley
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0947-M.jpg -by the way, anyone else hoping to head this way - don't forget to get your Permit for the Valley while in Leh, otherwise you're not allowed over the mountain, it's apparently a bit of a sensitive area, close to the Pakistan border. I did meet someone who got turned back as he hadn't realise that he needed a permit. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3010-M.jpg That was the road leading to the village, which itself seems an explosion of colour after the hundreds and hundreds of miles we've been riding where our surroundings have been the greys and browns of high altitude rocky landscapes. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0908-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0907-S.jpg We've got a couple of days here to explore and get to know the locals http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg On a stroll around the village, we get invited into a house and have tea with these young women. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0925-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3026-M.jpg They're 16/17 years old and attend school in Leh - which although not too far away maybe 140kms, it IS the other side of the world's highest mountain pass, so they usually stay in Leh and only come back in the holidays when the pass is open and the snow is cleared. They join us on our exploration of their village. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0914-M.jpg Cutest donkey foal I've seen in a long time http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0917-M.jpg The English that is used is very correct and often quaint http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0903-M.jpg I find an interesting souvenir http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3023-M.jpg Yep folks - that is a genuine yak horn http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3024-M.jpg |
Hanging in Nubra
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We'd headed down to the river with our local friends, the kids were there, catching fish. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0943-M.jpg I went out a bit deeper http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3042-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0933-M.jpg After all the snow, it felt a bit unreal to be enjoying what feels like a summer holiday. On with our walk, and a few of the sights the local post box?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0909-M.jpg I did succeed in getting water out of the pump http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...7_081402-M.jpg and then it was time to go further afield, back onto the bikes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3101-M.jpg we're off to this wonderful place http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0949-S.jpghttp://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0955-S.jpg |
Diskit Monastery
y http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0975-M.jpg
The Monastery is up a steep twisty road (hmmm, thinking about it, that describes most places in Ladakh http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0971-M.jpg From above someone is watching us as we make our way up. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0957-M.jpg and then is somewhat surprised when he sees that we're female riders. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0965-M.jpg It's a very old monastery, built during the 14th century, and there is a peaceful air about the place, combined with great views through every window. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0958-M.jpg The monks make us welcome http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0961-M.jpg and show us around, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...7_124544-M.jpg local villagers are helping with some repairs to the walls http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0960-M.jpg Once more, all the work is done by hand, with the women alongside the men- look closely and you'll see that one of the women even has her baby on her back. through this window is another good view http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0962-M.jpg Aaah, yes, THAT Buddha statue we'd seen the day before on our way into the Valley. we headed back down to it, it's further away than it looks and so we get back on our bikes. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0993-M.jpg More twisty roads http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0989-M.jpg |
Buddha
We've ridden across the valley to the Maitreya Buddha statue at Diskit Monastery.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0964-M.jpg We go closer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0977-M.jpg and closer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0982-M.jpg It's only when you're at the foot of it that you realise just how big it is, especially after stepping back to the railings around it. The views are incredible http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0985-M.jpg The railings are adorned with Buddhist symbols, though this one looks more like the Pisces zodiac sign http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0986-M.jpg A final close up of the face - we marvelled at how well maintained it is - over 100 feet up on the side of the mountain that is already pretty high - how do they manage it? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0983-L.jpg Then it's back onto the bikes and return to our village http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg Here's a picture from earlier when I'd spotted a truck and decided it would make a good support vehicle http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...7_081546-M.jpg I like the words on it Hindustan Express - by the looks of it, I don't think it has ever gone at express speed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg |
Desert Capers
It was time to head into the sand dunes
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1036-M.jpg Like desert areas in most parts of the world, there are camels here (admittedly it seemed a bit odd as we'd been admiring the yaks just the day before). The camels here are Bactrian ones - with two humps which is very rare in Asia, only the single humped camels live in this part of the world. This random group have descended from strays from the Middle Eastern camel caravans which followed the Silk Road in Marco Polo's times. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_3091-M.jpg There are some very cute ones http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_3088-M.jpg I found a particularly ugly but friendly one. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0999-M.jpg I climb on board, and with a bit of help get my Giant Loop bags on the back (are you reading this Harold?http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1000-M.jpg Safely up and feeling a bit more confident http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg and then I'm off on George the camel to explore a bit http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1003-M.jpg Having been inspired by my ride on George, we headed towards our bikes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%283%29-M.jpg |
Sand Riding
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I was determined to ride my Enfield in the sand- somewhat unsuitable choice of bike and tyres for the task - but it HAD to be done. I managed to persuade two of the riders to give it a go and we headed off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3098-M.jpg we lined up, facing the nearest sand dune http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3103-M.jpg A bit more encouragement http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1038-M.jpg Barbara went first http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_3106-M.jpg she got halfway up the sand dune http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_3107-M.jpg Before losing momentum http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1042-M.jpg and shared her frustrationhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif help was at hand for her http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_3111-M.jpg I'd gone in a different direction http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3110-M.jpg and got into difficulties http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1041-M.jpg Stuck but still smiling... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1044-M.jpg and then off again once more http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1046-M.jpg What a day from wading the river in the morning, to the beautiful monastery and then the camels and the dune riding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3060-M.jpg |
Moving On
We'd had an incredible time in the Nubra Valley, but it was time to leave, the view from my window looked like this
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1056-M.jpg Clouds are starting to cluster on the mountain tops- we'd better get a move on to cross the high pass before it started snowing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg We encountered some children with no school to go to, who were just playing by a particularly bleak stretch of the road while their parents toiled on nearby roadworks. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1066-M.jpg we stopped to chat and find out their names http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1063-M.jpg We continue practising close formation riding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1067-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3122-M.jpg heading back up to Khardung La http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1073-M.jpg A roadside snack - with a limited choice of drinks, we tried "Thumbs Up", the local version of coca cola - and agreed there was little similarity between the two except colour http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1084-M.jpg More roadworks to get past http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3141-M.jpg We crossed back over Khardung La http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_3130-M.jpg and without the pressure of convoys of lorries to pass, we could take our time going down the other side, stopping for photos and to enjoy the view http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1086-M.jpg |
Final Riding Day
A bittersweet experience, knowing that this was our last day of riding but what incredible surroundings to be riding through
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1091-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1088-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1090-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1087-M.jpg We rode down the mountainside back to Leh, wehere we parked up in the hotel courtyard Nicky wanted a final picture with her bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1094-M.jpg Barbara had grown attached to her Tibetan prayer flags http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1097-M.jpg I said goodbye to my lovely bike which had served me so well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1095-M.jpg A final night out in Leh followed by a thrilling flight south over the Himalayas, re-tracing the route we had ridden with incredible views of the mountains http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1101-M.jpg |
Delhi Days
We had a couple of days in Delhi
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1107-M.jpg getting around in tuk-tuks (auto rickshaws) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1103-M.jpg Delhi - a whirlwind of colours, sounds and smells http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1114-M.jpg Children selling pens in the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1117-M.jpg Bicycles are still the main form of transport for most people http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1115-M.jpg Some shopping to be done http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1116-M.jpg and then a well earned drink http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1113-M.jpg Margaritas all round as we toasted a fantastic ride and an incredible country http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1111-M.jpg A dash back to the hotel for our final meal - in a tuktuk with these guys acting as outriders http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1118-M.jpg |
Farewell from India
A new outfit for me - punjabi style, my group have one more task for me as guide
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1122-M.jpg Smiles all round http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_1125-M.jpg Memories of our adventure on the wonderful Enfield bikes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0779-L.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0828-L.jpg And for those who think they might be interested in doing a ride like this with me and intrigued enough to find out more, send me a message, as we'll be running the same trip next year (August 2015)- sorry guys, it's going to be another women only ride, so pass this on to your other halves - and remember, some of my riders had never been off-road before this trip. Their feedback about the journey has been 100% positive. It's the adventure of a lifetime, a chance to ride some of the world's most stunning roads through landscapes we can only dream about. |
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