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-   -   India 2015: Delhi - Ladakh - Delhi (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/india-2015-delhi-ladakh-delhi-84059)

crisidsto 30 Oct 2015 15:23

India 2015: Delhi - Ladakh - Delhi
 
8/8/2015

We arrive in Delhi in the evening. The impact is strong.
It's hot, humid, the smell of the city certainly does not hide.
We meet for dinner with some friends who have arrived there a few days before to make a trip as backpackers: their first impressions are not exciting and we go to bed a bit doubtful about what will happen the next days.
It must be said that a few days before we left we read about several issues in the area:
- Incidents of terrorism in Kashmir
- Heavy rains in Ladakh, with many roads blocked by landslides
- News of "taxi union" being aggressive towards motorbikes rented outside the region
Well, not the best conditions

9/8/2015

It rains. A lot.

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We walk to Karol Bagh, the motorcycles district, where we booked a 500 Enfield.
Soaked with water, we find Tony Bike Centre and make the necessary arrangements to take our bike.
In the moment we take the bike, our perception of the holiday changes and with it our mood, until then not really good.
"We're on a new motorbike holiday! We will solve all the problems!"

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10/8/2015

We start in the late morning, destination Chandigarh.

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Getting out of Delhi is not as dramatic as I thought, perhaps because we started, without knowing it, at a good time.
The road is straight and boring, mostly easy.
The evening in Chandigarh we have to decide: go towards Kashmir and turn clockwise or do exactly the opposite and go to Manali and then go back the other way?
The situation in Kashmir seems still a little tense and go to Manali would allow us to meet some friends, who have departed before us, and who will be at the end of their trip, so they will be able to report us about road and weather conditions.
Ok, Manali is the decision.

11/8/2015

We don't have time to get gas that breaks the monsoon

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When it finally calms down we can depart.
Coffee stop at a Dhaba

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There is some traffic and the road is slow

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We sleep in Bilaspur in what we find: a hotel not exactly cozy.

12/8/2015

From Bilaspur to Manali

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Manali is a very touristic town, completely different from what we encountered so far.
Everything here seems easy and manageable for the tourist.
After the first days a little difficult, it is what we need.
In the evening we meet with our friends and we receive all the needed advice: it seems that the holiday starts to take a turn for the better.

13/8/2015

Rest day in Manali.
Some shopping, a visit to a couple of offices to get Rothang La permit, and finally, the sun is shining.

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crisidsto 30 Oct 2015 19:49

14/8/2015

The first part of the climb to the notorious Rohtang La (just under 4000 meters) may seem an road on the Alps

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Then begins a dense fog and the terrain becomes more insidious until up to the pass, where, however, the Enfield arrives without any problem

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Downhill we find the sun and we can begin to enjoy the scenery, but the road is not paved, sometimes insidious and muddy, so it is best to always pay attention

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In Tandi there is the last gas station for 300-odd km, until just before Leh

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When we are a few km from Jispa, our destination for the day, I realize that the forks of Enfield respond poorly.
I look and one pisses oil.
No problem: we find immediately a mechanic and do change oil and oil seals.

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Then we continue to Jispa, where we find accommodation in a tented camp

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crisidsto 31 Oct 2015 17:47

15/8/2015

We have some company for breakfast

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Then is time to depart again

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Some little difficult passage

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but sometime is very easy

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we pass BarlachaLa and we are almost at 5000 mt

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some rest at a dhaba to but some dry socks and a coffee

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crisidsto 3 Nov 2015 20:03

then, after the Gata Loops, Nakeela and Lachungla, there is a change of scenery, and then we reach Pang, where we decide to stop for the night.

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crisidsto 4 Nov 2015 15:00

16/8/2015

This was our accomodation for the night

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and this our room neighbor

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we soon realize that the day will be easier than the previous: most of the roads in this section have been paved recently

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the temperature is low and the sky cloudy, so we are forced to cover ourselves with warmer clothing

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Tanglangla, at 5300 meters,is the last pass before Leh, and until now the highest we crossed

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Climbing down the pass, we realize that we have entered Ladakh, Buddhist area. First monuments appears

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After the Upshi junction, the last stretch of road that separates us from Leh is perfectly paved, but not less spectacular

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Leh is a touristic town, and finding accommodation in a guesthouse is easy and fast.
We are able to do so in time for a walk before dark.

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So, summarizing: starting from Manali, we stayed 2 nights out and arrived in Leh without problems and without running the third day.
We sure were lucky because we found almost always beautiful weather and never a landslide has blocked our progress.

To consider is that, despite perhaps is not noticeable from the photos, like us, many tourists travel the Manali-Leh every year, both Western, both Indians. I have seen some completely unprepared departing from Manali, and then having problems on the road. If you really want to find something bad about this road, which has undoubtedly spectacular landscapes, is that compared to other routes (I think of the Pamir Highway, for example, or many parts of Kyrgyzstan), is a bit too crowded for my taste.

However, we just arrived in Leh and there is still a lot to tell ...

crisidsto 4 Nov 2015 15:01

17/8/2015

Day dedicated to visiting Leh and obtaining permission for the adjacent valleys

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crisidsto 5 Nov 2015 19:31

18/8/2015

It's time to depart from Leh, destination Khardung La and Nubra Valley

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impresses to see the conditions in which live and work people who maintain these roads

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as often happens in the indian passes, a traffic jam blocks us for a while.
In this case the cause is the passage of a convoy of military trucks

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when we depart again, we understand that the first goal is near

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Here we are: the Khardung La is ours, at 5600 meters (declared, actually seems to be in 5359), it is hard we will ever go higher in our lives

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crisidsto 5 Nov 2015 19:32

after the usual pictures we start to clim down

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down and down and it starts to be warm, and also the sand starts

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sand? yes, sand: in this Himalayan valley there is a small desert of sand dunes.
And there are also camels.

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we find an accommodation in a tented camp in Hunder and we go to visit the dunes
The place is obviously popular, with caravans of camels ready for the tourist

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but you can't deny it's beautiful...

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shomani 6 Nov 2015 04:08

I missed you by a couple of days. We were there doing the same road starting on the 10th August. Beautiful scenery and the people are great.

crisidsto 6 Nov 2015 08:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by shomani (Post 520141)
I missed you by a couple of days. We were there doing the same road starting on the 10th August. Beautiful scenery and the people are great.

Great! So are we going to see your pictures soon? :D

crisidsto 6 Nov 2015 13:39

19/8/2015

The day before we had confirmation that the Wari La, the pass that allows from the Nubra Valley to go to Lake Pangong Tso is closed due to landslides, so we are forced to go back where we came from.

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Khardung La again

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and then back for a night in Leh

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shomani 6 Nov 2015 18:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by crisidsto (Post 520145)
Great! So are we going to see your pictures soon? :D

I'll try to get some posted soon.

crisidsto 9 Nov 2015 15:58

20/8/2015

We depart one more time from Leh, this time toward Pangong Tso

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Today there is to climb the Chang La and then descends into a fantastic valley.
I will not write too much, but I'll leave the pictures do the talking

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crisidsto 9 Nov 2015 15:59

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Until when we get here

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We find the usual tented camp for the night and we have a walk along the lake

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The place is wonderful: just a shame that a group of Indian tourists decide that the evening is too quiet and spend the evening with the radio at full volume, transforming this magical place in a sort of open-air disco of questionable taste

major123 9 Nov 2015 19:18

Beautiful post...beautiful pictures

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

shomani 10 Nov 2015 03:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by crisidsto (Post 520145)
Great! So are we going to see your pictures soon? :D

Here are a few from Parwanoo, Sarchu, Keylong and Nakeela.
(I hope this works, I'm not too good with posting pics)

crisidsto 12 Nov 2015 16:37

21/8/2015

Back towards Leh.
We stop to say hello to the new friends we made the day before

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Again on Chang La

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and then some new friends

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before Leh we stop to visit Thiksey monastery

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crisidsto 15 Nov 2015 10:22

22/8/2015

Time has come to leave Leh.
We pass the confluence between Indus and Zanskar rivers

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road is almost always new tarmac. We pass a lot of Military areas...

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pictures doesn't capture the beauty, but there is a par highly spectacular

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The climb to Fotula is long and with beautiful views

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crisidsto 15 Nov 2015 10:25

The descent no less...

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Then Namikala..

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We pass Lamayuru

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and then Kargil, where it is easy to realize that we came out from the Buddhist area and entered the Islamic.
From here starts the Zanskar valley, we'd be very curious to visit it, but it would take 3-5 days and if any problem happens, they would be too many to be able to return in time to Delhi, so we continue

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We reach Drass, that the Indians define "the second coldest inhabited place in the world", and we decide to stop for the night

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crisidsto 16 Nov 2015 15:43

23/8/2015

We leave Drass early: the landscape is still mountainous but starts to be greener than what we were used the previous week

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Zozila pass is the latest in high-altitude

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but it can't be said that it is easier than the others, especially for the traffic and the cliffs

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crisidsto 16 Nov 2015 15:44

Sonamarg, after the pass, is a tourist town in flashy expansion: it seems almost to have been catapulted into a part of our Alps

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then we reach Srinagar, our destination for the day, and take a room in a small hotel near the lake, famous for being studded with House Boat available to tourists
It's afternoon and we would like to visit the old city, the gardens and the lake, but we don't have much time, so we accept the hotelier proposal, who for a small fee gives us an almost guided tour with his car

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crisidsto 17 Nov 2015 14:27

24/8/2015

A long transfer day: it's very hot and there is a lot of traffic. The area is heavily militarized and I stop counting the convoys we are forced to overcome

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We arrive in the evening in Jammu and we celebrate the end of the long day with a great tandoori chicken

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25/8/2015

The road is faster than yesterday and we reach Amritsar in time to take a walk in the city and visit the charming Golden Temple, an oasis of peace in a city otherwise tremendously chaotic

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crisidsto 21 Nov 2015 15:22

26/8/8/2015

We leave Amritsar, and decide to stop halfway to Delhi, as we still have a few days left

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Strunf! Patapunf!
"Well, something must have happened to the bike"
I stop, get down and look at what happened: one of the two rear shocks exploded. I thought it was also a bit 'too reliable' this Enfield.
The shock absorbers are however two, so we can continue slowly and seek a solution.
Two guys on a Bajaj stops and try to help us, but the fact is simple: we need to find someone who sells a suspension.
Fortunately there is a little city nearby, and with the help of a new friend, we reach a Royal Enfield dealer, where with twenty euro we can fix the problem.

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we depart again and we reach Patiala...

27/8/2015

Road, hot, humid, traffic, road, hot, humid, traffic, road, hot, humid, traffic, road, hot, humid, traffic.
We return to Delhi, not without some difficulty we reach the hostel of the first days, and we go to the renter to return the bike

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28/8/2015 - 29/8/2015

Two days of visits to the city.
Days which, I have to tell the truth, we don't enjoy: too hot, too humid, too many people, too dirty, in fact, Delhi is not for sure the part of India that I preferred in this trip

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30/8/2015

Back on the plane and home ... waiting for the next holiday ...

Vaufi 21 Nov 2015 19:29

Thx for sharing! Fantastic pics!!!

steve_m77 25 Nov 2021 15:16

Many thanks for posting so much info and great pictures. I am planning this route (or in reverse, depending) next year and this gives me a lot of ideas.


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