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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/60.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map60-L.jpg I've never thought of Mexico as being divided up into states, but like the US and Canada, Mexico has 31 states and 1 federal district. Right now, we've crossed over by ferry into our 3rd state, Sinaloa, after riding through Baja California and Baja California Sur. In Los Mochis, we waited till noon for Rick to finish his motorcycle service and then we all rode together southwards along the coast towards Mazatlan. It's about a 6 hour ride including a break for a late lunch. Not knowing any better, we were routed to the toll road, which has a great speed limit of 110 km/h, but it was very expensive! We estimate that we paid the same in tolls that we did in gasoline. Note for the future, stay off the Cuota (toll) roads! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0823-L.jpg Cruising the Malecon in Mazatlan In Mazatlan, Rick showed us to one of his favorite hotels right on the Malecon. It was relatively cheap since it's off-season and it seemed like we were one of the only occupants in the hotel. Rick took off to spend the night at his friends place and we would meet up a couple of times later in the city for a bite to eat. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7540-L.jpg Beach on the Malecon Mazatlan is very much a beach town, but unlike the more well-known seaside resorts like Cancun, Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta, there are more local vacationers and less foreign tourists here. We like that a lot. We got to practice our Spanish with everyone. Man, I really need the practice... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7559-L.jpg Normally I'm pretty good at seeing where things are headed, but... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7569-L.jpg ooookey... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7586-L.jpg We stuffed ourselves with shrimp and seafood. I think this is the biggest meal we've had in Mexico! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7616-XL.jpg After lunch, I felt like this guy... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7614-L.jpg Colourful parasails punctuate the sand, sea and sky http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7592-L.jpg Sea and sky blend together as birds give chase to the sailboats http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7595-L.jpg Pelicans dive-bomb the waves - the waters are filled with fish! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7584-XL.jpg We tried some Cuban food for a change Here I'm having a dish called Ropa Vieja, literally translated means "Old Clothes". It's a popular dish in Cuba and it's made of shredded steak in a tomato sauce, some plantains and rice. Although the owner spoke fluent English, Neda made me talk to him in Spanish. From the look on his face, I think I may have ordered "moldy laundry"... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0489-L.jpg This is the Gringo Tourist section. Everything is done up pretty, but it's way overpriced http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7722-L.jpg This senorita was celebrating her 15th birthday, these are the guys in the party, the rest of the girls were in the nightclub Plaza Machado is one of the oldest places in Mazatlan, lots of architecture influenced by the French and Spanish. It's recently been restored by local businesses to attract tourist $$$. Very pretty area to stroll through, but it felt a bit sterile, so we didn't stay too long. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0474-L.jpg Walking around old Mazatlan The steets around old Mazatlan have been closed to traffic, I think this happens every evening on the weekends. There are tons of people walking the street. We felt much more at home in this environment, with street vendors offering everything from tacos to toys, shoes and clothing and stages set up at every intersection playing live music, dancers and DJs. Amazing!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0456-L.jpg The streets are crowded with locals enjoying their weekend! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7681-XL.jpg Indoor market where the locals shop http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7648-XL.jpg Now *THAT'S* what I'm talking about! Keep it coming... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7777-L.jpg Open air concert in the closed off steets outside of old Mazatlan http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7733-XL.jpg Dancers strutting their stuff http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7707-XL.jpg Pre-Christmas nuptials http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1031-L.jpg Christmas-time outside the Catedral de la Immaculada Concepcion. How appropriate! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/61.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map61-L.jpg The Road of 3000 Curves. When we met Phil and Jayne at the ferry dock in La Paz a week earlier, they mentioned that they were planning on riding this road when they crossed into the mainland. 3000 curves? How could we pass this up? Rick had to leave Mazatlan earlier than us, something about getting back to Mexico City and going back to wo... going back to wor... nope, can't say it. Anyway, that left us by ourselves again, heading towards the mountains of the Sierra Madre Occidental. This meant that we were going to leave our sun-drenched beach haven for colder climates, so we had to mentally prepare ourselves for this. The Alaskan winter had scarred Neda deeply and she curses bitterly anytime she's forced to put on her jacket liner: "I thought I was done with this stupid thing!" http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0859-L.jpg Stuck behind a couple of trucks, time to snap a picture! I found out that another thing Neda curses at are the Cuota (toll) roads in Mexico. They are really expensive. Everytime we see a sign saying "Cuota", I hear a string of expletives over the intercom. So we go looking for the sign for the "Libres" roads. In this case, Carretera 40 Libres leaving Mazatlan *is* the Road of 3000 Curves, and the villainous Cuota road threatens to spoil all motorcyclists fun by smoothing the twists and turns by all manner of technology: bridges and holes through mountains. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN0871-XL.jpg Twisty heaven! The pavement is smooth, but the air gets colder as we slowly ascend the mountains. Every once in a while, the bushes along the side clear and we're treated to a magnificent view of the green valleys below us. Traffic is light in the middle of this weekday, but we still manage to get stuck behind a couple of trucks and have to wait for a straightaway to pass them. I'm amazed at how brazenly these large vehicles cross the median when apexing blind turns. Surprised there aren't more accidents! There is a sign about 1/2 way through the road reading, "Espinoza Del Diablo": the "Devil's Backbone", a very apt nickname for this piece of asphalt! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0838-L.jpg A different kind of hazard on the Road of 3000 Curves Along the way, soldiers and army vehicles have occupied all of the tiny villages. Part of the reason they are building the high-speed Cuota road through the mountains is to make it easier to mobilize troops to combat the drug traffickers who have a stronghold in this region. The soldiers barely take notice of us, and those that do give us a thumbs up on our rides. We're told it takes between 6-8 hours to make the journey between Mazatlan and Durango. We do it in 5, with an hour break for lunch... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0882-L.jpg Riding through the streets of Durango The city of Durango is the capital of the state of Durango, and is the most modern city we've visited in Mexico so far. We've opted to stay here for a few days because we don't want to travel during the holidays. Also, we've planned an entire Christmas day of Skype sessions with our family and friends back home, and we take the time to scope out a hotel with fast Internet. Being on the road for this long is a curious affair. In some ways, we are closer to our family and friends, because we are making more of an effort to keep in touch, without the excuses of work. So far TelCel's mobile Internet infrastructure has been quite extensive and impressive, outclassing any provider in the US and Canada. Not sure what we're going to do once we've travelled past this luxury. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0504-L.jpg Our favorite place just around the corner from our hotel for cheap eats Chilaquiles for me and a gordita for Neda We find a nice hotel right downtown and for the next few days venture out enough into the strip to become very familiar with all the local eateries. On Christmas Day, we treat ourselves to a Chinese buffet, which is I think our first non-Mexican meal in Mexico. The restaurant is staffed by two Chinese women, I think the three of us represented the entire Asian population in the state of Durango! They seemed just as amused as I was to see a brotha! :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7804-XL.jpg Frolicking in the fountain. During the day, temperatures were beautiful, but dropped quickly in the evenings and early mornings http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7809-XL.jpg Fountains and churches - two mainstays in Mexico architecture http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7822-XL.jpg There's always someone carrying around some musical instrument in Mexico! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7848-XL.jpg http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7841-L.jpg Neda wrestles the camera away from me... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0519-L.jpg Catedral Basilica de Durango at night There is a markedly increased police presence in Durango compared to all other places we've been to thus far. I'm not sure if it's because this is a larger city or because it's the holiday season, but police cars and uniformed officers vigilantly patrol the downtown streets. The plaza at night is continuously lit by the Christmas ornamentation and the flashing blue and red lights of the police car permanently parked in front of the Basilica. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0525-L.jpg Feliz Navidad from Durango! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/62.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map61-L.jpg We took a leisurely two days to travel from Durango to Guadalajara, opting to bypass the Cuota roads to take the non-toll highways instead. The roads are flat and boring, skirting the far eastern side of the mountains and nothing eventful happens, save for my Sena communicator, which stopped transmitting just as we arrived into town. The problem with constantly being on the move is that if we do need parts shipped to us, where do we send them to? And how long will it take? The logistics involved are annoying. So for the time being, I was in listen-only mode, which suited Neda just fine! :) Guadalajara is Mexico's 2nd largest city. Our bikes are due for regular service (again, so soon?!?!) and we had originally thought to schedule an appointment in Mexico City, but after some research, we found a dealership just less than 10 kms away from our hotel! The only spot they had open was next Friday, so I guess we're here for a while! We took the opportunity to get acquainted with the city! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8082-L.jpg Main streets are really busy, so we took to the side streets A lot of Mexican life centres around three things: the church, the market and the plaza. Every neighbourhood has a local version of this triumvirate. We rode to the center of town to the Marcado Libertad, which is the largest and most popular market in the city, right beside the Catedral de la Asuncion de Maria Santisima, which also happens to be the largest cathedral in Guadalajara. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0547-L.jpg Snack-time: Watermelons drenched with lime, seasalt and chilli! *delicious!* Limes are Mexico's beloved condiment, they use them like Americans use ketchup. You can put them in beer, on tacos, watermelons, etc! We met a local girl the other day who just got married to a Belgian and had moved overseas to be with him. She told us that in Belgium the limes are so small and expensive, and this is one of the things she really misses about Mexico! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7877-XL.jpg The moment the camera came out, this guy started doing tricks with his knife, flipping and tossing it up in the air. Very entertaining! Mercado Libertad is huge; sprawling through indoor buildings and spilling outside into the open-air stalls. The air was alive with the sounds and scents of vendors selling fast food, groceries, toys, clothing. We had a great day snapping pictures and interacting with the locals, with Neda honing her ever-increasing Spanish skills. As for me, I was skilled enough not to need a knife to butcher their language... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7884-XL.jpg Grabbing some lunch, over-the-counter-style, inside the Mercado There are so many places to buy food, so we've developed two criteria for deciding where to eat: 1) no gringos! 2) it has to be busy. If there's nobody eating there, there must be a reason! I've fallen in love with the taco asada (shredded beef) and chorizo (sausage), but one item on the menu intrigued me - Brain Tacos! Walking Dead Style? It sounds much more appetizing in Spanish: tacos de sesos. Mmmmm! I've made up my mind to try this the next time. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0553-L.jpg Mercado is alive with bursts of colour everywhere! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7895-XL.jpg Fruits and vegetables here are so much more juicier and flavourful than back home http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7944-L.jpg Ice skating? In Mexico? Outside the Catedral, there was a long lineup and when we investigated, we found that a large outdoor skating rink had been built, complete with skate rentals. Everyone wanted to try ice-skating, which I assume is a novelty in Guadalajara. It's 28C outside! Ice-skating skills must be a rarity here, because this girl target-fixated on my camera and I barely got out of the way as she careened towards me, arms flailing. :) Also, no zamboni, so the ice got pretty funky after a while... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7949-L.jpg A different kind of taxi around town http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0931-L.jpg Pedestrian traffic is heavy on this beautiful, sunny weekend. Catedral on Neda's left http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7970-XL.jpg Inside of the Catedral de la Asuncion de Maria Santisima The inside the catedral is so beautiful and ornate, however there was a pre-recorded mass playing over the speakers, and the record kept skipping over and over again in the same spot. So we had to leave because it was a little bit annoying and slightly creepy :) A friend of mine told me that this catedral is a popular place to shoot TV shows, a lot of Spanish soap operas are filmed here! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7976-XL.jpg A family is surprised by a toy bird flying overhead, set aflight by one of the vendors in the plaza http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8005-XL.jpg Boys playing by the fountain http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8015-XL.jpg Pensive? Or slow day for shoe-shining? I love the look on his face, so lost in thought! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8019-L.jpg Church spires compete to reach the sky http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8032-XL.jpg Catedral de la Asuncion de Maria Santisima, the centre of Guadalajara http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8050-XL.jpg Selling beads and other religious trinkets outside the catedral |
Mex City
If you are interested in coming to Mex City send me a PM or post here. I normally meet people just outside the city and guide them in.
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/63.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map63-L.jpg Tequila is a Magical Village! I know that sounds like something you drunkenly slur out aloud after 8 or 9 shots, but the town of Tequila, about 60 kms outside of Guadalajara, has been designated a Pueblo Magico by the Tourism Board of Mexico: Quote:
But no harm in visiting the town, right? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0942-L.jpg Panhandlers compete for pesos by performing tricks between red lights. Currently this is the bar: Guy with a mohawk, juggling flaming torches, while on a stepladdder, covered head-to-toe in silver paint... It's a beautiful, sunny day for a day-trip. As we leave Guadalajara, we make sure we plot a route with no Cuota roads. It turns out the free highways have a few entertaining twists and curves as it leaves the city and heads up into the hills. Still need to be careful around the blind corners because of this: http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0943-L.jpg In the off-season, Alonso drives an 18-wheeler through Mexico http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0956-L.jpg Riding through the streets of Tequila, Neda has her eyes set on the prize straight ahead - CuervoLand! Or Mundo Cuervo in Spanish. The Tourism Board has really pulled out all the stops, and when we arrive into the city centre, we're greeted by music and a troupe of dancers dressed in indigenous costumes performing ritualistic dances. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8084-XL.jpg Performer dressed in Aztec costume http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8086-L.jpg Depicting an Aztec ritualistic dance http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8091-XL.jpg The captain of the dance crew calls it: "Una vez mas!" http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8099-XL.jpg Bells and bubbles http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8191-L.jpg Tourism machine is even putting the kids to work http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8133-XL.jpg "Squirrel!" Tequila is made from the blue agave plant, which is found here in abundance, because of the fertile red volcanic soil in the region. However, the distilled liquor can only be rightly called "Tequila" if it is brewed only in this town. Throughout the city, there are several pieces of art, paintings and statues dedicated to the process of making Tequila and the farming of the agave plant. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8151-XL.jpg Hector and Manuel's latest practical joke on Juan may have gone a little too far this time... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8159-XL.jpg The Mariachi - an ever-present Mexican tradition Neda booked us on a tour of the Jose Cuervo factory, which is headquartered in town. This is quite a popular tour, and there is a special train that runs to and from Guadalajara called the "Tequila Express", that is very popular and allows people to get liquored up here without having to drive back drunk. I had no idea that Neda booked us on the Tasting Tour of Mundo Cuervo... UGH! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8171-XL.jpg Disclaimer: These bikes stayed parked until we were 100% sober again http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8206-L.jpg It all starts off with a little shot http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8205-XL.jpg More performers in Cuervo Land http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8208-XL.jpg To help fund this trip, I am now shooting magazine ads for Jose Cuervo Our assigned tour guide describes the process involved in creating Tequila, all the way from harvesting the agave plant, baking it, sticking it in huge steel vats, then into wooden barrels and finally pouring it down people's throats. Neda was only interested in the last step, so we really didn't pay a lot of attention to those in-between steps... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8213-XL.jpg Agave plants. Cuervo is Spanish for "Crow". Our tour guide looked exactly like Dani Pedrosa. Except he was normal-sized and knew a heck of a lot about tequila. After the "basic" tour had ended, because Neda had booked us on the extended "Tasting Tour", we were led to the basement of Mundo Cuervo, into the special secret cellar where 250-year old, 30,000 peso bottles of Tequila were being stockpiled for the next Baktun. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8238-L.jpg We were offered a taste of Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia, $150/bottle, only sold in Mexico By now, we were more than a couple of shots into the tour and I was dreading the impending after-effects. I was assured by our tour guide that the infamous Tequila Hangover is caused by other sugars added to the tequila and that the 100% Agave alcohol with no added sugars shouldn't cause any ill-effects. OhReeeeeaally...? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0593-L.jpg Tequila tasting class? Or Cascade commercial? After the secret cellar tour, we were taken upstairs to the tasting room where we were given three tequilas, blanco, annilo and geez, I can't remember... the rest is kind of hazy... I think at one point, I put our guide in a headlock and then I gave him a little noogie while screaming, "Who's your daddy, Dani! That's right, Jorge's your daddy!", then we were kicked out of the tasting room... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0581-L.jpg So after the Tasting Room debacle, this was the only tequila offered to us. Here, Neda is a bit more sober than I am... We spent the rest of the evening sobering up while munching on cheap tacos in an eatery just outside of the main plaza. I was not feeling too good. One of the folks in our tour group recommended that we take the Cuota road back home because there were a lot of drunk people driving on the way back to Guadalajara. So we dished out the pesos begrudgingly, even though it did thankfully get us back to our hotel much quicker. I crawled into bed with a really bad tequila headache that didn't go away when the sun rose the next day. Oh god, never again! (damn you dani pedrosa) |
Hey Guys,
You two have one of the most amazing blogs I have ever read so far. Great pictures, short entertaining comments, and full of positive fun. I am glad to see someone that is truly taking time to enjoy the different cultures and not riding from point to point like if they had somewhere to be anytime soon. Keep it up! :funmeteryes: |
Fantastic report! Great photos. Wish you every happiness on your travels.
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Thanks for the encouragement, guys!
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/64.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map64-L.jpg It rained all through New Year's Eve and into the first few days of 2013. While I was still recovering from Tequila poisoning, we opted to stay in for the night while the steady rain poured down on all the merry-makers. The sounds of fireworks and music was a testament that you just can't drown out a good party! We are staying at a fabulous (and cheap) bed and breakfast about a 15-minute walk from the city centre. For the next few days we stayed around the neighbourhood, shopping at the local mercado. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0607-L.jpg Neda cooks up stir-fry vegetables to make up for all the greens that are lacking in the Mexican food I have been gaining lots of weight on this Mexican diet of fried tortillas, tacos, and huevos. And it's all so cheap! Good thing there was a kitchen we could use in the B&B. Although the local food is high in fat and carbohydrates, obesity has only become a recent problem with Mexicans. Prior to the 1980s, the numbers were negligible, but with the expansion of US fast food chains, the average weight has steadily increased. There is a McDonalds in every city and it seems like Coca-Cola has focused all its advertising dollars in Mexico. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0615-L.jpg Regular service at Germania BMW Thankfully the weather cleared and we dropped the bikes off for service at the dealership and walked around Zapopan, a larger town in the north-east Greater Metropolitan Guadalajara. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0617-L.jpg Almost every Mexican town or city has a gate http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8253-XL.jpg Whistling and skipping amongst the orange trees! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8266-XL.jpg "Oranges and lemons, say the bells of... um the Virgin of Zapopan" The Basilica of Our Lady of Zapopan is the most famous building in the area, celebrating the likeness of the Virgin Mary. Like all Mexican neighbourhoods, it also has its own market and plaza and we spent most of the day walking around in the hot sun. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8272-XL.jpg Pope John Paul II and a friend http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8278-XL.jpg Street musician outside the Basilica http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8286-XL.jpg Babysitting. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8296-XL.jpg The mercado at Zapopan. More veggies please! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8303-XL.jpg Restaurants are ready for the lunchtime crowd http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8299-L.jpg While in the Farmacia in Zapopan, these two nuns approached me, and I helped them fix their old transistor radio. I'm SO totally going to heaven now! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0771-L.jpg Mural on the wall of a cemetary, now my new desktop wallpaper http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8305-XL.jpg Cemetary just around the corner from our B&B http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_0770-XL.jpg BRAINS! Well, that veggie diet didn't last very long... The taco place around the corner from our B&B has become our second home. By now, I've tried almost everything on their menu. The report on the tacos de sesos (brains): it tasted exactly like it sounds. When cooked, it's a white meat. Very mushy, but you could still feel the texture of the brain folds. It was definitely an organ meat and not as salty as muscle. It wasn't bad, but not my favorite taco. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8441-L.jpg Guachimontones During the weekend, we took another day-trip outside of the city to Teuchitlan, about 60 kms away - not too far from Tequila. It's home to a very unique set of structures called Guachimontones. Although not as grand as the Mayan or Aztec pyramids, these have the distinction of being built almost 1,000 years before the rise of the Aztec empire. They are considered "pre-hispanic". http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8320-L.jpg Main Guachimonton, up close and personal. Several smaller ones scattered throughout the area Another unique feature of the Guachimonton is that they are round in shape and rise up in smaller concentric circles like a cone. All other pyramids are straight-edged. These pyramids were built to honor the God of the Wind. At the very top, it's speculated that a long pole was erected where Velodores (flyers) would jump off the top with ropes tied around their ankles and slowly descend while rotating around the pole. Hearing this story sparked a memory of a TV show I used to watch called, "In Search Of" narrated by Mr. Spock, and in one episode he was describing this exact ceremony. Not sure why this stuck out in my mind so much... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8337-XL.jpg Tourists from all over the area visit the site http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0628-L.jpg http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8406-L.jpg These flat pads used to be the site of large permanent huts, all facing the Guachimonton http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8312-L.jpg The town of Teuchitlan lies in the distance http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8393-L.jpg Relaxing afternoon amongst the remains of an ancient civilization |
Update from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/65.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map65-L.jpg After 10 restful days in Guadalajara, we laden our bikes with all our gear once again and set off to explore more of the state of Jalisco. A popular destination for Guadalajarans and others in the region is Lake Chapala, Mexico's largest fresh-water lake. It's only about an hour away and the weather is sunny and beautiful for the afternoon ride. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0979-L.jpg Riding through the cobblestone streets of Ajijic We're told to explore Ajijic, which is a very pretty town 5 minutes away from the lake. Our internal organs are given a bit of a shuffle as we bounced up and down over the cobblestone streets of the old city. The weather and scenery here is idyllic, however it seems that lot of Americans and Canadians have also caught onto this fact. There are over 20,000 gringos and Cangringos living in Ajijic and you can't turn a corner without that North American twang of English wafting through the air like a bad smell. To underscore the point, every other building in Ajijic seems to be a real estate agency... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0661-L.jpg Lunch at the funky Nuevo Posada Hotel http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8612-L.jpg Giving our kidneys a break by walking the streets of Ajijic http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8664-L.jpg Pretty side streets in Ajijic The ex-pat community here is fairly old, made up of American retirees, Canadian snowbirds and families who have brought their elderly parents here for the cheap cost of assisted living. We've noticed that ex-pats greatly change the landscape of the culture wherever they tend to coagulate, raising the prices of real estate and food, and creating a very non-Mexican bubble supported by their influx of foreign dollars. Ajijic is a beautiful town, but we wouldn't want to live here. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0667-L.jpg San Francisco Church just off the Malecon in Chapala About 5 minutes away is the town of Chapala, and the main draw here is the Malecon, from where you can watch the prettiest sunsets in Jalisco. We spent the entire afternoon people-watching, while tracking the movement of the sun as it fell from the clouds overhead to a more photogenic position just above the horizon over the waters of Lake Chapala. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0677-L.jpg Walking the pier on the Malecon in Chapala http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8535-L.jpg Ice cream break! Neda really likes her skirt http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8510-XL.jpg The native whitefish population of Lake Chapala was decimated when they brought foreign Tilapia into the waters. Huh? What metaphor...? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8597-L.jpg Boats watch the sunset like angels on the beach http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8538-XL.jpg I see a little silhouette of a man... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8605-XL.jpg The Sun of King Midas touches the waters, turning them to an iridescent gold http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8542-XL.jpg Street vendor resting his arms http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8547-L.jpg Walking the Malecon at sunset is a popular activity here http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8554-L.jpg So cute! Stray dogs were running all over the beaches, playfully chasing each other. None of them looked like they wanted for food http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0672-L.jpg We have about 300 more shots like this... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1136-L.jpg 299 more. |
thanks guys for such a briliant trip/blog (whatever ye call it)
i ,ve be following your trip with great interest, your photos and information are first class ,it almost feels like we are there with you bier don,t mind if you put up all the 300 photos of the sunset ,because here in a damp and cold ireland we,re not getting much blue skyes at the moment , take care guys |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/66.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map66-L.jpg While we were at Germania BMW in Guadalajara last week getting our bikes serviced, the service technicians gave us some great ideas on places to ride around. One of them told us that local bikers ride up a twisty road to Tapalpa for the weekends and hang out there. When we found out that Tapalpa was also a Pueblo Magico, well that sealed the deal! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1000-L.jpg Riding the cobblestone streets of Tapalpa Tapalpa is about a two-hour ride from Guadalajara. The road winds up the Tapalpa mountain range, and the temperature drops precipitously into single digits (C) as we reach the mountainside town early in the evening. Tapalpa is known for woodworking and a lot of the architecture features nice wood finishes to doorways and arches. We spent some time walking around the town square just outside the San Antonio Parish, the main church in Tapalpa. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9053-XL.jpg Disapproving look at my parking job? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9132-XL.jpg I thought this nice old lady said she'd watch our bikes while we walked around town. Neda says to me, "Wow, your Spanish really sucks, cause she just threw a bunch of swear words at you... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1163-L.jpg Birds fly (Whisper to a scream) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8693-XL.jpg Statue outside the church heralds the sunset http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8696-L.jpg We ordered tamale de acerga (swiss chard), typical for this region http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8707-L.jpg Bells and crosses dot the skyline Shortly after sunset, we watched as a crowd of people started lining the streets outside the church. Then a huge processions of dancers, musicians and paraders made a giant circle around the town square. This lasted a whole hour and I was sorry that I didn't have my camera on-hand to take pictures. The waitress at our restaurant told us not to worry, this would happen every night - it was a 9-day festival honouring the Virgen de Guadalupe, and pilgrims from all over slowly make their way to Tapalpa. This fiesta happens every night for 9 days! Felipe, our Spanish teacher in La Paz, told us that Mexicans *LOVE* their festivals and parties. There seem to be more national holidays than working days, which affects productivity somewhat... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8848-XL.jpg There were several marching bands with brass instruments and also these musicians with fiddles http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8912-L.jpg Then the Aztecs came out, managed to get them still for a picture http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8919-L.jpg A flurry of feathers and headdresses as everyone lined up to go into church after the parade http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1180-L.jpg Fireworks shot up at the end of the parade and kept on going well into the early morning http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8966-L.jpg Walking back from the fiesta The back streets of Tapalpa are quiet. Most of the residents and pilgirims are still at the plaza outside the church celebrating. Our walk back to our casa is punctuated by the pop of fireworks amidst the distant sounds of a marching band playing well into the night. We love being here in Mexico! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8979-L.jpg As recommended to me, I had Tacos de Tripita (fried tripe). New favorite taco!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9016-L.jpg There is music everywhere in Mexico. One of the things I *LOVE* about this place! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9029-L.jpg And of course, lots of shopping for Neda http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9149-L.jpg Not an original idea. I saw little kids doing this last night. Hmm... maybe I shouldn't have admitted to that... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0739-L.jpg Visitors are not allowed up here, but we sweet-talked our way up the church tower. By sweet-talk, I mean begged. And we also gave a donation to the church as well... There was an old radio program I used to listen to when I was a kid. It was a late-night program and I wasn't supposed to be up that late, so I would be under the covers in bed with my old transistor radio. I can't recall the name, but it was a Twilight Zone-like show. One of the episodes had the main character climb up a tower, and since he was afraid of enclosed spaces, he counted the steps till he reached the top, to occupy his mind. When he descended, he again counted steps down but to his horror, the number kept on increasing past the number of steps he climbed up! Every time I climb stairs, I remember that radio program... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0760-L.jpg I *SO* wanted to ring the bells and yell out to Tapalpa, "DINNERTIME!!!!" Perhaps that's why they don't let people up here... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0762-L.jpg Inside of San Antonio Parish Church http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0767-XL.jpg View of the town square from the church tower We haven't been getting a lot of exercise ever since arriving in Mexico. And on top of that, we've been eating really badly as well. So Neda found a great place to hike around, just outside of Tapalpa. Las Piedrotas are a set of huge boulders sitting in an empty field. Nobody knows how they got there since there doesn't seem to be any mountains immediately in the area, the field is just bounded by forests. It's speculated that aliens moved them. Really hard-working aliens that don't fiesta 200 days out of the year... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9082-XL.jpg Jumping is exercise, right? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9100-XL.jpg Climbing Las Piedrotas http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0730-L.jpg Unrealistic expectations |
Nice one!
Courage is to step outside the comfort zone!
Enjoy, live and love. |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/67.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map67-L.jpg From Tapalpa, we head eastwards further inland. We've been really blessed with sunny weather on this trip, normally it rains all throughout our previous trips. The ride takes us through a lot of farmer's fields and as we approach Uruapan, the geography changes to a tropical jungle, large leafy trees line the roads. We've crossed into our 7th state - Michoacan - supposed to be one of the most beautiful states in Mexico. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1068-L.jpg From desert cactus back to leafy trees http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9209-L.jpg Spying lunch at the "food court" in Uruapan http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9211-XL.jpg Beautiful bass walking the streets looking for a gig http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9225-XL.jpg Downtown streets of Uruapan Neda went hiking through El Parque Nacional de Uruapan, which is right inside the city. It boasts many white water rivers and waterfalls throughout its area, with rainbow trout swimming freely through its waters. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9254-L.jpg These kids would dive if you gave them a few pesos at El Parque Nacional de Uruapan http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9263-XL.jpg White water rivers in El Parque Nacional de Uruapan http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1296-XL.jpg Updating RideDOT.com in our very nice habitacion We're staying a few days in the city in a great little casita, run by a Spanish couple who know the the area really well. They've given us some amazing recommendations for places to see and things to eat. Uruapan is the avocado capital of the world, and the fields we passed through on the way in were avocado farms! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0820-L.jpg Amazing guacamole! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9690-L.jpg Art gallery inside an old converted fabric factory On Sunday, while we were coming back to our casita, we saw the housekeeper leave and we asked where she was going. She told us she was going to watch "los luchadores" in the town square. We thought "luchadores" had something to do with a lightshow or fireworks? From the Spanish word for light? When we went down to the square to see for ourselves, we found out "Luchadores" means wrestlers!!! OMG SO COOOL!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9357-L.jpg The town square is filled to capacity to watch the luchadores So apparently, the WWF or WWE or whatever they call it in America, got its inspiration from Lucha Libres, a very popular Mexican sport founded in 1933. The wrestlers wear colourful masks, which would explain the popularity of all the masks being sold in the souvenir stores all over Mexico. Matches mostly consist of Battle Royales, tag teams or trios, such as the one we were watching today. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9333-XL.jpg As with any wrestling match, there's a lot of this at the beginning... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9342-XL.jpg ...followed by a lot of that http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9387-XL.jpg This little girl in front of me wasn't very impressed. She was more interested in my camera. SO CUTE! The crowd was chanting, "Tecnicos! Tecnicos! Tecnicos!", which I guess was one of the teams. So we got into the action, and joined in the chants as well. The locals standing around us thought that was hilarious, as it was obvious we had no clue who or what we were chanting for. Later when we got back to our casita, I looked up "Tecnicos", and it turns out that in any match, there are the good guys, "Tecnicos" and the bad guys, "Rudos". The Tecnicos play by the rules, have the better skills and moves, while the Rudos rely on breaking the rules to win. While the cheering was strong for the Tecnicos, the crowd went absolutely crazy when the referees got into the action, getting a move put on them by one of the Rudos (or even a Tecnico!). Such a good time! We found out that these wrestling matches happen every other Sunday! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9346-L.jpg Somebody's gonna get hurt reel bad... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9375-XL.jpg The greatest insult is to be unmasked in public by another wrestler At this point I realized that we were watching a live action Saturday-morning superhero cartoon. So: http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/comic-L.jpg |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/68.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map68-L.jpg In 1943, a fissure opened up in a cornfield just outside of Uruapan. The farmer and his wife watched as ash and stones erupted from a small hole in the ground. A week later, that fissure grew up to be a volcano measuring 5 stories high and after a year it was over 1,000 feet tall! During this time, the volcano continued spewing lava and ash, covering the field and burying two neighbouring villages, Paricutin (which the volcano was named after) and San Juan. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1118-L.jpg We wanted to see this volcano first-hand, so we rode about 15 minutes outside of Uruapan and stopped for lunch in Nuevo San Juan. The inhabitants of old San Juan had plenty of time to evacuate their homes and they relocated their town further away from the volcano and named it Nuevo San Juan. After lunch, we rode further uphill to where the farmer's field used to be. The road crumbled away to a dirt path through a very scenic forest. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1123-L.jpg "Excuse me!" Neda beeps her horn... nothing. "Con permisso?"... ah, that did the trick - Spanish-speaking cows... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1131-L.jpg The trail gets smaller and disappears into the forest http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1136-L.jpg Trail becomes a field of fine volcanic ash The ash is like sand, which is our sworn nemesis! Our big, heavy bikes with smooth, street tires leave deep gouges in the soft surface. As Neda tries to accelerate out of the dark ash, her rear tire leaves a smokey ash-cloud in the air that hangs in the air behind her until my bike cuts through it. Instead of paddling our way through all of this, we decide to park the bikes and hike 30 minutes to the farmer's field. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9444-L.jpg From across the field, the volcano appears in the distance, rising 1,400 feet in the air http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9534-L.jpg Although we are assured by many people that the volcano is dormant, we're a bit taken aback when hot, smelly gases still rise from the fissures in the ground! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0798-L.jpg For once, I'm not responsible for the smell behind me... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9560-XL.jpg Scrabbling up the very steep summit of the volcano, we take different paths because whoever's ahead leaves a small landslide of babyhead volcanic rocks http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9595-L.jpg We reach the top, and bask in the... uh, sulfuric gases http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9598-L.jpg Looking into the crater of the Paricutin Volcano http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9616-L.jpg There's an awful lot of heat and activity here for a "dormant" volcano... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0820-L.jpg Hiking around the rim of the volcano http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9625-L.jpg In the very far distance, my zoom lense captures what remains of old San Juan Old San Juan lies almost completely covered in lava from the Paricutin Volcano. From the peak, we can see the direction and the shape of the lava flow. The only thing standing in San Juan is the top of the the church. It's too far to hike today, as it's taken us 2 hours to get from the bike to the summit, and the sun is starting to hang low in the sky. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9636-XL.jpg Getting ready to descend http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9655-L.jpg Spectacular views from the top of Paricuctin <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/f4ZeXooMhto" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> We take another way down the volcano, as it seems a bit more direct, although it's much more steeper. From the video above, we slid down as if we were on snowboards down a Double Black Diamond run - smoke still rising all around us! When we reached the bottom, we got a bit lost and spent almost an hour rummaging through thick foliage trying to find the path back to the field we came in from. We had less than an hour of sun left and I was starting to panic a bit, but thankfully Neda has the tracking skills of a woman in a shoe store on Boxing Day and we made it out into the field as the sun was beginning to set. Just another 30 minutes to get back to the bike and then a ride through the forest in the dark. Not looking forward to that. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0829-L.jpg And then, salvation! Castullo and his brother were also visiting the volcano, and they managed to drive through the ash and park a lot closer than we did. When they saw us walking though the ash field, they offered us a ride in the back of their pickup truck. We had seen tons of Mexicans riding in the back of pickup trucks in our travels, and now we were doing the exact same thing as the locals! So awesome! We were giggling like kids and taking lots of shakey pictures all the way back on the bumpy ride to the bikes, and the two brothers were shaking their heads and laughing at us from inside the truck. :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1138-L.jpg We thanked Castullo for the ride and then negotiated the rest of the ash field http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1139-L.jpg I couldn't put my kickstand down to help, so I had to ride past Neda, park and come back to pick her bike up. It was getting dark very fast... We did manage to get back to Uruapan safely, and it was only after a couple of days of rest from our long hike that we felt ready to venture out to the other side of Paricutin to try to find the remnants of the church in the lava. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9711-L.jpg Had lunch at Angahuan, the closest town to old San Juan http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9723-L.jpg We were a bit worried about eating here, didn't seem that sanitary... but the food tasted good http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9792-XL.jpg We rented a couple of horses and descended down the steep path strewn with volcanic rock http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9775-XL.jpg There it is, the remains of the church in old San Juan http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9753-L.jpg This was the only building remaining in the entire town http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9762-XL.jpg There are shanties set up just outside the ruins and it looks like people still worship at the church |
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9961-L.jpg
Some loners stray out into the sun http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0020-L.jpg This little guy needed some warming up http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0045-L.jpg Mid-afternoon sun brings the Monarchs to life! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0134-XL.jpg When I breathed on the butterfly on my hand, he flew up onto my sweater and then walked all the way up to my ear! It tickled! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0169-XL.jpg This guy seemed to like Neda's backpack http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0844-L.jpg We made tons of friends that day. Muy hermosas! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1192-L.jpg Someone told the villagers that Ewan and Charley were in El Rosario. Our ride back down to Angangueo was met with a lot of disappointed faces... |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/70.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map70-L.jpg We had our doubts about visiting Mexico City. It's the 7th most-populated city in the world at over 20 million residents. We've heard the traffic and the congestion are killer! Not a place you'd want to ride into by motorcycle. So when Garry contacted us over the Internet and invited us into the big city, we naturally jumped at the chance! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0855-L.jpg Garry and I yakking about bikes Garry, along with his wife Ivonne, run the the Garry Hostel, whose mission it is to "give accommodations to intrepid Motorcycle Travelers brave enough to come and experience the marvels of Mexico City". It's actually their home that they open up to any biker riding through Mexico, as they are also motorcyclists as well. Garry and Ivonne have hosted over 90 sets of motorcycle travellers over the years! They are taking their own big trip in the near future and I'm sure all this good karma they've built up will revisit them in spades! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0854-L.jpg Mexico City subway - normally a zoo during rush hour Garry had to work during the week, so we took the subway downtown to visit the world-famous National Museum of Anthropology and History. Since our hosts were taking us pyramid-hunting this weekend, Ivonne told us it would be a great way to brush up on Mayan and Aztec culture before the visit. Truthfully, I'm not really a museum person, I just like taking pictures. I also like taking naps in museums... Neda loves museums and talks about all the things she learns about while I am snapping away. This gives me material for the blog to go along with all the pictures. But because I'm only half-listening while taking pictures, most of these third-hand-half-heard "facts" that I write down are wrong, and then everyone e-mails me to correct me, and then I get to tell Neda how popular we are on the Internet. It's a great system... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0199-XL.jpg Gene: kikikiki... Neda: Are you 5?! Gene: Come on! I'm sure the artist was also like, "kikikiki" when he made this...! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0217-XL.jpg Aztec Calendar Stone Speaking of wrong facts, the very famous Aztec Calendar Stone, which is a Mexican cultural symbol, is now believed to be a basin or altar for human sacrifice. Now that's a lot cooler than some lame calendar! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0219-L.jpg Aztec head, sacrificial basin in the background http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0240-XL.jpg Outside the museum, there's a park with lots of vendors selling trinkets http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0299-XL.jpg Tweety-bird looks on as Neda gets a gold tooth put in, rapper-style When we were in Guadalajara, we met a couple from Montreal who had come down to Mexico to get dental work done. The prices down here are much cheaper than in Canada, so Neda takes the opportunity to score some novacaine. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0319-L.jpg Outta the way! One-Two-Fives in da house! My battery is not holding a proper charge, so after Garry gets back from work, we go searching for a Yuasa YTX14-BS. Garry's got a couple of smaller 125cc thumpers that are more suited for zipping in and out of Mexico City traffic, so off we go into the city zooming around on these tiny bikes! I got to ride his reverse-shift Honda on the way back, and I was stalling and hopping that rear wheel all the way home! SO MUCH FUN! :) We didn't end up getting a battery that day, but we did go to the BMW dealership where they tried to charge me a million pesos for a BMW OEM battery. With the currency conversion, it would have been like a couple of thousand Canadian dollars. Whatevs... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0339-L.jpg Break dancers in Coyoacan Mexico City is not in a state, it's inside a Federal District. One evening, our hosts take us to the historic centre of Coyoacan, one of the most popular places to visit in Mexico. With it's cobble-stone streets lined with restaurants, cafes, bookstores and other cultural attractions, the place is packed with a flurry of people and activities. We also discover another of our favorite foods - churros filled with Nutella! Neda is in heaven! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0356-L.jpg Cruiser parked outside one of the many cafes in Coyoacan On the weekend, Ivonne drove all of us to the pyramids in Teotihuacan about 45-minutes north of Mexico City. Garry made up some stories about how northern Mexico City was the dangerous part of town, 'cause that's where they cut people's arms off. But when Ivonne hit the automatic locks when we were driving through the north, it scared us a little... All throughout our trip in Mexico, we have been picking up bits and pieces of Spanish, but nobody has ever taken the time to teach us all the swear words. Until now. Ivonne's colourful vocabulary sprang to life as she negotiated the congested streets of Mexico City. "Chingo"!, "Ai Cabron!", "Tonto!"... ok, that last one wasn't that bad, but our SpanishDict apps on our iPhones were working overtime as we were shuffled around in the back seat while darting in and out of traffic! We'd titter like little kids everytime Ivonne threw another Spanish cuss word at an errant driver that got in her way... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0361-L.jpg Hat and sunglasses commerce at the pyramids in Teotihuacan - tons of vendors everywhere! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0423-L.jpg We must have climbed over a thousand flights of (very steep) stairs going up and down three different pyramids during the day http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0461-L.jpg Garry takes everyone of his guests here. He's climbed this pyramid over 90 times in his life! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0468-L.jpg Couple takes a break at the half-way mark http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0485-XL.jpg Ivonne fashionably surveying the land. I wish we had brought hats too... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0561-L.jpg Pyramid of the Sun is the largest pyramid in MesoAmerica. The people at the top look like tiny hairs! There are three pyramids in Teotihuacan, the Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon and the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent. I found it interesting that like the Aztec Stone Calendar, the larger Pyramid of the Sun was misnamed. It's actually dedicated to the god of Water. So it should really be called Pyramid of Water, but it's been called the Pyramid of the Sun for so long that they're not going to bother changing it. Reminds me of the Skydome back in Toronto. When Rogers Communications bought the rights to rename it to the Rogers Centre, everyone still calls it Skydome... Whole lotta money wasted... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0550-XL.jpg Second pyramid-climb of the day http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1454-XL.jpg Pyramid of the Moon http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0575-XL.jpg Ivonne meditating in the shade. She's resting since we all fell asleep in the car as she drove us all back http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0849-L.jpg Our bikes resting at the Garry (and Ivonne) Hostel |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/71.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map71-L.jpg I love sportbikes. We sold our sportbikes before we left on our trip, but we both miss them dearly. I used to take a lot of weekdays off with a couple of buddies to ride the twisty roads a couple of hours north of Toronto. When Garry took us for a weekend ride, about 45 minutes south of Mexico City, we were all of a sudden surrounded with supersports! They were ripping up the curves on the way to Cuernavaca and the town in between, Tres Marias, looked like a scene out of Biker Boyz! Hundreds of motorcycles lined both sides of the main road, and tons of bikers are walking around in full leathers, to see and be seen. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1209-L.jpg Riding the twisties south of Mexico City http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1197-L.jpg Every weekend, Tres Marias becomes a full-on biker town http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0829-L.jpg On-lookers line the main street watching impromptu stunt shows Neda asked Garry what happens if the cops show. He replies, "Well, they close down the street to other traffic until the stunt show is over". Now *THAT'S* the way it's done! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0651-XL.jpg Endo in the streets http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0624-L.jpg Helmet convention in one of the restaurants http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1456-XL.jpg I decide to give sesos (brains) another chance... this time in Gordita-format... Jury is still out... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0676-L.jpg Aprilia Pegaso and Harley V-ROD! Some non-sportbikes! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0680-L.jpg A couple of familiar faces in the crowd... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0686-XL.jpg Newer R12GS and Ducati Panigale S. Such a sweet-looking sportbike! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0692-L.jpg R1200S and CBR1000RR Repsol http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0727-XL.jpg Matching bike and leathers http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0741-L.jpg Hands up! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1457-L.jpg Lots of people were very curious about where we were from and where we were going. This family saw that we were from Canada and wanted to get our picture with them! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0743-XL.jpg Yamaha Tenere. This is a big bike and the guy riding it was even bigger! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0750-L.jpg A couple of RossiHeads http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0792-XL.jpg What time is it? 12 o'clock baby! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0824-XL.jpg This kid needs a new sweatshirt for this season... or he can dust off his old one from 2008... Mexico City is not what I expected. Sure, there are tons of people and cars on the road, and the hillsides of the sprawling city are slathered with houses and buildings, like a fungus spreading over the land. But life here is pretty much the same as any large city. We went out for pizza and sushi with Garry and Ivonne, and we were treated to "the world's best tacos" just 15 minutes away from the Garry Hostel! :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0891-L.jpg South Side Motorcycle Club listens attentively. Actually, they are trying to figure out what the heck I'm saying... The night before we left Mexico City, Garry asked me to do a presentation to his local motorcycle club. The only catch was, it had to be En Espanol! This was my first ever presentation in Spanish! In reality, it was only 10% Espanol, 40% Espanglish and 50% Charades... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0906-L.jpg Ivonne bids us farewell We spent a whole week with Garry and Ivonne and really got to know them well. They are such a generous couple, opening up their home to us and we stayed an extra few days at their urging, "Oh you can't leave on Monday, the traffic will be horrible!", "You can't leave on Tuesday, I told my motorcycle club you are coming in to do a presentation"... :) I think a lot of motorcyclists are afraid of riding into such a large city, but with Garry and Ivonne's invitation, we we're glad we ventured into Mexico City, they are amazing ambassadors for their home town! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/72.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map72-L.jpg Puebla is about an hour and a half away from Mexico City. However, most of that hour and half was spent in thick, grid-locked traffic trying to escape the sprawling, over-populated metropolis. We breathed a sigh of relief as we reached the outskirts of the city, thrust into the open spaces of the central highlands of the Sierra Madre. The city of Puebla is the largest in the state of Puebla, but at *only* 2 million people, it paled in comparison to the human sardine can called Mexico City. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0920-L.jpg Excavation of some of the ruins at the bottom of the pyramid in Cholula We're really here to see the pyramids in neighbouring Cholula, about 10 minutes away from Puebla. It's the largest archaeological site in the New World, and most of the great pyramid is still buried and looks like a really large hill. It'll probably remain so, because on top lies a large church built by the Spanish in the 16th century. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0903-XL.jpg There are tunnels inside the pyramid that you can explore! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0907-XL.jpg Almost all of the passages are blocked off so it's a single way in and out, otherwise you'd get lost inside http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0908-L.jpg Tunnels are narrow and spooky! Cholula's site is interesting because at least three different civilizations over the centuries have built on or next to the existing ruins, not including the Spanish church at the top of the buried pyramid! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0976-XL.jpg Velodores! Outside the pyramid, we saw a group of velodores perform the ancient ceremony of bungie jumping. I can't explain it properly, but this was such a cool sight to see live, ever since being captivated by a TV program I saw of this when I was a little kid. No harnesses or safety wires, just a guy at the top cheering them on by playing a flute as they slowly descended while spinning around the very tall pole. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1007-L.jpg This was the closest I got to performing dangerous stunts. Unless you count riding around in Mexico City traffic... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1012-XL.jpg The pyramid is right inside Cholula. Neda surveys the city from the ledge. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1074-XL.jpg At the very top of the buried pyramid, we walk around the Spanish church http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1084-L.jpg Chapulines! Tasty! In the markets around the ruins and in Cholula, we saw baskets of Chapulines for sale, or as the English-speakers call it, Grasshoppers. Feeling a little adventurous, we bought a bag and tried some. They were dry-roasted with garlic and chilli, and they were very delicious, crispy and salty. I didn't really mind cleaning the wings and legs from my teeth, however for the next few hours I was burping up grasshopper, and that didn't taste pleasant. So no more Chapulines for this guy... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1498-XL.jpg More traditional fare in the markets in Cholula http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1475-XL.jpg Festive restaurant decor. We had some of Puebla's famous Mole Poblano, chilli and chocolate sauce! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1087-L.jpg Cool bike, ma'am! Neda was excited to see a female police officer on an F650GS! Until she tried to hit us up for a bribe... JUST KIDDING!!!! She was very cool about us taking a picture. There were actually two female biker cops, but the other one was riding a Suzuki, so we didn't really care about her... :) |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/73.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map73-L.jpg I think we're crossing into our 10th Mexican state, Oaxaca, today. It's a 3 hour ride on the Cuota roads (yes, we finally succumbed and dished out a small fortune) from Puebla and the weather was sunny and pleasant as we headed south-east. The terrain here is arid, and we've lost a lot of the lush green tropical trees that we saw in Michoacan. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1216-L.jpg Nice winding roads outside of Puebla http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1222-L.jpg (un)Controlled burns seem to be a popular way of clearing grass in Mexico Because we left Puebla pretty late in the day, we arrived in Oaxaca, the city, as the sun set. Unfortunately, while in Mexico City, the headlight wiring on my bike has broken so I'm forced to blind traffic around me with my high beams. As we head into the city, a fellow local R1200GS rider pulls up beside us and asks if we have a hotel for the night. "Nope". He says he knows a good one, so we follow him into the city, glad that someone that knows what they're doing is leading! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1099-XL.jpg Lots of vendors in the main square in Oaxaca Carlos the GS rider checks all of us into a very nice hotel, maybe a little bit above our budget, but it's very central and we run into them later on in the town square to have a drink and chat about Mexico and motorcycles. The main plaza is alive with vendors selling brightly coloured trinkets and lots of tourists wandering around. Neda remarks that Oaxaca is the cleanest Mexican city we've been to, so automatically she loves it here! I reserve judgement until I've tried their Brain Tacos... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1102-L.jpg Street performers playing in the main square We also ran into another Canadian motorcycle couple, Kari and Rose from Thunder Bay! They trailered their Kawasaki Super Sherpas to Texas and rode across the border. Just two weeks into their trip, their 250cc bikes are outpacing us as they race towards the Guatamelan border and parts further south. We've been in Mexico for over two months already! We get a lot of helpful hints on accommodations from them and will probably run into them again if they slow down and wait for us! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...e_oaxaca-L.jpg Photo courtesy of Kari and Rose http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1162-XL.jpg Serious Scooter-Face in the streets of Oaxaca http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1167-L.jpg VW Bugs used to be made in Mexico and is the country's most popular car http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1180-L.jpg Colonial-style buildings in the historic part of Oaxaca http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1221-L.jpg Vibrant nightlife in the city streets http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1224-XL.jpg Striking a bargain in the main plaza http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1244-L.jpg Oaxaca from above, surrounded by mountains http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1249-L.jpg Strolling around the back streets of Oaxaca Neda found a great swimming hole called Hierve el Agua, Spanish for "The water boils", an unusual set of rock formations about a couple of hours outside of Oaxaca. The dirt road that leads up switches back on itself many times as it rises up into the mountains where the attraction lies. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1259-L.jpg Terrific views of the Oaxacan mountains and the valleys below http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1277-L.jpg Taking a scenic break from the ride http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1343-L.jpg Enjoying the ride through the mountains http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1381-XL.jpg Hierve el Agua Hierve el Agua looks like a waterfall, except it's made up of rock. Rising up almost 100-meters, it was created from mineral-rich water that has bubbled up from the ground. Over 2,500 years, the water has dribbled down the face of a cliff, calcifying into what's known as a "petrified waterfall". http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1410-L.jpg Mineral-rich waters create psychedelic pools of water at the top http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1455-L.jpg Although the water bubbling up from the ground looks like it's boiling, it's actually carbonated and quite cold http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1507-L.jpg More natural pools of water at the top and the funky patterns the minerals leave on the ground http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1473-L.jpg Natural infinity pool and a model poses for us http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1534-XL.jpg Riding back down from Hierve el Agua |
What a fantastic report so far, I've just lost an entire morning reading from the start. A few years ago I drove across Canada and back so this brought back some fantastic memories for me, thanks.
I'm looking forward to following along with the journey from now on. Happy trails. |
Wow
Hello my name is Jaime, I've being looking and reading your voyage and I have to admit........................I envy you. To think that you are doing what I believe millions of people men and woman alike wish they can do deep down in their heart. I pray that God protect you and keep you healthy so that you can keep inspiring more of us to enjoy what God created for our enjoyment. You are one lucky guy to do this with your Love one. Hope we could meet some day if you come buy Massachussetts some time in the future. Let me know.
|
Thanks for all the kind words and encouragement! Neda and I really appreciate it.
I was hit with a really bad stomach bug for a few days last week. Was leaking lots of fluids out of every orifice, couldn't keep anything down, but the worst has passed and we're back on the road again. |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/74.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map74-L.jpg Leaving Oaxaca, we are heading further east by the southern coast. The road takes us through some fantastic winding mountain roads and we have a lot of fun throwing the bikes around the tight curves, while constantly vigilant for oncoming trucks that stray into our lanes. The temperature climbs past 30C and the humidity soars. We're having a lot of fun! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1326-L.jpg Taking in the awesome mountain roads and views At over 600 kms, this is probably the longest ride we've done in a while, and we arrive in San Cristobal in the dark. Neda has been amazing finding us affordable accommodations, and she zeros in on a hotel not too far from the heart of the historic centre. The town is very pretty, more colonial-style architecture and plenty of cafes and restaurants to while away the day. We've spent quite some time in the Colonial Highlands of Mexico, so we treat San Cristobal as a temporary rest stop as we forge further ahead. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1542-L.jpg Walking the historic centre of San Cristobal http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1555-L.jpg Colours in Mexico are so vibrant http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1550-XL.jpg Reminds me of Tibetan prayer flags in the Himalayas http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1539-L.jpg Dancing in the streets! Our next stop is in Palenque, a bit further north. Although only a couple hundred kms away, it winds through some fantastic jungle scenery. And it is very hot and humid! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1560-L.jpg View from the top of one of the mountain roads http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1351-L.jpg Big leafy trees dominate the tropical scenery http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1565-XL.jpg Food cart in Palenque Palenque is not as scenic or touristy as the Colonial Highlands, but the reason we've stopped here for the day is to visit the ruins just outside of town. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1661-L.jpg Lots of temples scattered throughout the site In the time of the Mayas, Palenque was one of the largest cities with 6,000 inhabitants, but they abandoned the site in the 1100s because of overcrowding and depletion of resources in the area. Seems like this is quite a common theme throughout human history. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1574-L.jpg This one is called Temple of the Lost Ark We liked the Palenque ruins because of the remoteness of the site. Nestled right in the heart of the jungle and surrounded by lush tropical trees, it reminded me of the old Indiana Jones movies. Minus all the vendors selling crafts and trinkets, of course... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1576-L.jpg Thulsa Doom! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1577-XL.jpg Neda casts an odd shadow http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1632-L.jpg Vendors selling clothing and trinkets We've visited several ruins now and at every one, there are vendors selling a whistle that when blown, sounds like (or is supposed to sound like) a jaguar. It's a very annoying sound and the vendors use it all the time to catch your attention. I don't know why anyone would want to buy something like this... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1599-XL.jpg Waiting for a giant ball to come crashing down on us while being shot at by poisonous blow darts http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1642-L.jpg Mayan Astronaut The Mayan culture has really sparked a lot of old childhood memories of TV shows I used to watch. One of them was called Ancient Astronauts, and with such phenomenon like the Nazca Lines, proposed extra-terrestrial involvement with these old civilizations. One of the "proof points" was the cover of the tomb of Pacal, right here in Palenque. Inscribed on the tomb was what looked like an astronaut reclined in the launch position inside a space ship, all the complex instrumentation around him. Stars and constellations surround the tomb and plumes of flames underneath to signify propulsion. Neda is holding a reproduction of that inscription above, and I felt such a wave of nostalgia listening to the vendor recount the tale of the Mayan Astronaut. No, we didn't buy the parchment... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1673-L.jpg Temple of Doom http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1669-L.jpg Temple of the Holy Grail http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1619-XL.jpg These were Neda's favorite Mayan ruins http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_1697-XL.jpg Sunlight filters through the jungle |
:D
Loving your report! Beautiful colors, and your writing always cracks me up. Thank you! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/75.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map75-L.jpg We're headed to the Yucatan Peninsula, which is one of our must-sees on our travel list, with the promise of lots of Mayan ruins, sunny weather and great food. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_0896-XL.jpg Our bikes resting in Palenque http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1599-L.jpg As we were getting ready to leave, John from Valladolid chatted with us. He sent us this pic later that day! We rode up the western part of the peninsula and arrived late in Merida. While looking for a place to stay, we talked to a few of indigenous Mayan people who were admiring our bikes. Their Spanish was very hard to understand, since they spoke it with a different accent. When we told them we were from Canada, it seems that it's a popular place to find work, more so than the US these days. There are actually dozens of different indigenous tribes living in the Yucatan, all of them have their own distinct culture and language! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2022-L.jpg Neda is hoping to see some flamingos While in Merida, we made a side-trip west to the coast to visit the Flamingo Sanctuary in Celestun. It's a small fishing village with great beaches and excellent seafood, and we rented a boat to take us out to the flamingo colonies. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1755-L.jpg Ducks hop and skip across the waters http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1767-L.jpg Flamingos are a deep pink because of the crustaceans they eat off the sea bottom Neda is quite a bird-enthusiast and one of her wishes was to see a flamingo live. Ever since she saw Miami Vice, actually... :) In the distance, we saw what looked like a line of pink buoys, but as we got closer, they were flamingos all lined up in the water! Neda was ecstatic and going crazy with the camera! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1844-L.jpg Such funny-looking birds http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1847-L.jpg They look like road runners when they land on the water Neda is a wealth of information, she says that flamingos like to congregate where there is a mixture of salt and fresh water, which creates an ideal habitat for them. When they're born, they are white in colour, but slowly turn pink because of their seafood diet. Which makes me think of my own Mexican diet and then I realize I'm not really tanned, I'm taco-coloured... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0996-L.jpg The boat takes us through a Mangrove forest http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2018-L.jpg Reminds us of the Florida Everglades. All we need is an fanboat... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1897-L.jpg Flamingos aren't the only birds living here, pelicans hang out on the treetops http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1899-L.jpg The wingspan on these birds are huge! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2005-L.jpg Hooligan pelicans hang out in groups of 5 and 6 http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1969-L.jpg I think the term "Flamenco Line" comes from flamingos... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2056-L.jpg Neda goes looking for birds in a fresh-water spring The boat lets us off at a spot called Ojo de Agua, where an underground spring flows fresh-water into the sea. The water is cool and refreshing and Neda takes the opportunity to do some up-close bird-watching. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2041-L.jpg This Great Egret is not fazed at all, Neda got so close to it! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2061-XL.jpg Birds are vain too... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2063-L.jpg Our chauffeur taking us back to the mainland We're staying in Merida for a few days to catch the end of Carnaval, lots of street festivals and parades every day. On the last day of Carnaval, we watched a stage show in the middle of the historic town. The theme of the show was Merida Mistica and featured portrayals of mystical creatures. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2070-L.jpg Plenty of tourist transportation available on the streets of Merida http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2212-XL.jpg Dancer supposed to represent a unicorn http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2238-L.jpg These dancers are supposed to be dragons http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2248-XL.jpg More dragon dancers! |
Update from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/76.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map76-L.jpg Neda is not feeling well. She's got a bad case of Montezuma's Revenge and she can't stomach any food. Which is a shame because there is some great Yucatan cuisine in Merida. We end up patronizing a German beerhouse (of all places) across the street from our hotel and I gorge myself on bratwurst and Guiness. There are a lot of foreign tourists wandering around the city and accordingly the prices for food and accommodations have risen. We don't really like that too much. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1605-XL.jpg Opting for a liquid diet http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2286-L.jpg Merida is a very cultured city, lots of art displayed everywhere Our next destination is directly east across the Yucatan peninsula. The Mayan ruins at Chichen Itza are one of the most famous in Mexico, and this has been on our to-do list from the start. Chichen Itza is only a couple of hours away so we leave early in the afternoon to try the catch the best light at the ruins. We encountered a very gruesome motorcycle accident on our way, which put me in a very sober mood for the rest of the ride, reflecting on all the things that could happen to us while on two wheels. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2325-XL.jpg The Castillo Temple at Chichen Itza Chichen Itza was a very big disappointment. Right from the start, we were charged a hefty admission fee, part of a two-tiered system which made it cheaper for locals than foreign tourists. I can understand a tourist surcharge, we encountered the same thing in India, however what we got in return for that large expense was very underwhelming. The ruins looked like they were entirely reconstructed on a well-manicured golf course. There was none of the stepped-out-of-a-jungle feel that we had in Palenque, and there were far fewer buildings here than on other ruins we had visited. Bus-loads of tourists from Cancun and Merida were unceremoniously dumped on-site and it felt more like a Disney attraction than an archeological site. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2345-L.jpg This pretty much summed up our Chichen Itza experience We opted not to hire a tour guide (more $$$), but we were curious when all the guides had their tour groups clap in front of the Castillo Temple. When we eavesdropped on a tour, we found out that due to the construction of the stairs on the face of the temple, the echo of a clap would make a two-toned sound that would mimic the call of a Quetzal. This is a bird that is commonly found in the jungles around the area, and was also worshiped by the Mayans as the God of the Air. <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sHvUQ7DYibk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Might have to turn up the volume a bit Never having heard what a Quetzal sounds like, we thought at the very least the two-toned echo was neat. Later on, I searched online for a Quetzal call - it sounds NOTHING like the echo. So all those dumb tourists (us included) who clapped in front of the temple were probably being laughed at by every single tour guide... :( I think we're done with visiting ruins. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2331-L.jpg Tourists walking around the ruins Valladolid is less than an hour away from Chichen Itza, and we stopped there for the night. It recently gained status as a Pueblo Magico, and the government has invested a lot in cleaning up the city and painting all the buildings in the historic downtown. Very pretty town, but since we arrived late in the evening, we only had time for dinner and a quick stroll through the streets. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0918-L.jpg Impromptu mass in the middle of the street from the back of a truck! The next day, we rode from Vallodolid to the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. If it seems like we are speeding our way through the area, it's because we are. The Yucatan is packed with foreign tourists and everything is expensive. We were going to stop in Cancun but after doing a search for accommodations, we decided to head towards Tulum instead. It's a much cheaper town to stay at for a couple of nights. Tulum is packed with sun-seekers and beach-goers who have come here to seek refuge from the over-priced hotels of Cancun. It's a very young crowd and our hostel was full of university students and recent grads from all over the world on their "Gap Year" trip. Our next-door neighbours were two girls from Australia and they told us about a cenote they visited closeby called Dos Ojos. We thanked them for the tip and headed out the very next day! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1415-L.jpg View from inside one of the "eyes" of Dos Ojos A cenote is a natural sinkhole or pit that exposes the groundwater underneath. They're found all over the Yucatan Peninsula, and Dos Ojos (Two Eyes) is set a couple of kms into the jungle and boasts one of the longest underwater cave systems in the world. We only rented snorkeling equipment so we stayed on the surface of one of the "eyes", but the light flowing from the mouth of the cave through the crystal clear waters was astoundingly beautiful! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1401-L.jpg Stalactites hang from the ceiling of the cave and dip down into the crystal blue waters http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1413-L.jpg Stalactites break the surface of the waters and everything is surrounded by an unearthly glow http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN1425-XL.jpg Neda takes in the underwater view http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1456-L.jpg View from above the waters http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1448-L.jpg Same exact view from below the waters http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1460-L.jpg Taking a break from diving http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1505-L.jpg Posing on a rock http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1471-L.jpg More underwater touring http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1473-L.jpg Neda dives to get a better view of the floor |
Thanks for the great review about Chichen Itza. Very informative, short and straight to the point.:thumbup1: I hope the "frau" feels better soon.
BTW, have anyone ever walk up to you and ask you for an autograph, thinking that you are Bolo Young? :rofl:...sorry Bro!, you just remind me of him! :offtopic: Now, why did you skipped Cancun? You guys were so close to it. Anyway, I am very much enjoying your trip, and at the same time taking notes for when its my time to do the same. Thanks to the both of you for "keeping it real" :D |
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If we wanted to hang out with people that looked like us, talked like us and ate the same food as us, then we never would have left home. If it's beachtime that you're seeking, go where the locals go and head to Mazatlan! |
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/77.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map77-L.jpg After almost three months of wandering around this amazing country, we're getting ready to leave Mexico. There's just this nasty business of recovering from a really bad stomach flu. We've discovered from our earlier travels, Neda is the Distant Early Warning for gastrointestinal problems. She always gets hit first, and then 3-4 days later, I get hit 10X harder. It happened in India and now, just as we are leaving Mexico. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_0925-XL.jpg Neda goes out for a supples run - bananas, crackers, Gatorade, jello and baby food We are in Chetumal, a border town about a couple of hours south of Tulum. A day after arriving, I find myself sweating and shivering under the covers, every muscle racked with pain. I also find out why they call this the Aztec Two-Step, as I need to be exactly two steps away from a toilet boil, otherwise tragedy results, more so for the housekeeping staff... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1632-L.jpg We are holed up in Oxtankah, a nice suburb of Chetumal on the beach Chetumal is not a very interesting place, which was perfect since I was in bed most of the time. After a slow recovery of clear liquids and soft foods, we took the opportunity while in a larger city to do some maintenance and find out what the process was to leave Mexico: insurance, currency, importation rules, etc. So in the interests of filling up an entry, here is a little retrospective of our time in Mexico, filled with some pictures and memories of daily life that didn't make the blog the first time around: http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6729-XL.jpg Spain has the Three Tenors, Mexico brings us the Four Altos Although we're used to riding in crowded, chaotic conditions, traffic in Mexico threw us some unique obstacles. Literally. Topes, or speed-bumps, totally caught us off-guard when we entered Baja California. Some of them are not very well marked and you have to predict where a tope would logically be - like when a road goes through a small town or entering a city, or just before a curve. We've both caught major air while daydreaming on the bike, and there's a lot of sparring over who will lead the ride, since the leader effectively becomes the canary in the coalmine. In Canada and the US (and most western countries), it's normal to use your right turn signal if you want to be passed. However in Mexico, they use the *left* indicator to signal vehicles behind you to pass you. This is very confusing to non-Mexicans. The first time I tried to pass a truck, he turned on his left turn signal as I pulled beside him, and I freaked out and slammed on the brakes, thinking he was going to turn left in front of me. It turns out that the left indicator really means, "I've scanned the road in front of me, and it's safe for you to pass me". Confusing. If the vehicle in front wants to turn left, they either use their four-ways, or they will pull over to the right shoulder, wait for all traffic to pass by and then turn left when it's clear. CONFUSING!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0537-L.jpg We were talking to a young couple outside of our casita in Guadalajara and their little boy was fascinated with our motorcycles. The Mexican people are so friendly and hospitable. It is normal when walking on the streets to greet total strangers with a "Buenos Dias" (or "Buenos" for short). And as you are leaving restaurants, it is customary to wish other people, "Buen Provecho" (Bon Appetit). I really like how smiles are so easily returned, whereas in the large cities of the US and Canada, a smiling face is viewed with suspicion or annoyance. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...ncronizada.jpg Sincronizada in Ajijic Food is very cheap in Mexico, and we both love discovering the cuisine that never migrated north of the border. Neda loves pasole, a white corn-based soup filled with other vegetables and meat while I leaned more towards the fried and starchy foods, chilaquiles and tacos filled with all manner of fried meats, chorizo, tripe, tongue and BRAINS! The grasshoppers were not a favorite... Much to the Neda's chagrin, for all the vegetables available in the mercados, they were never served in the restaurants. And diet sodas don't seem to be as popular as in Canada and the US. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1214-L.jpg Looking for a rug to cut in the dancing church of San Juan Churches, markets and plazas dominate almost every town, large and small, in Mexico. We've found out that in different churches across the country, there are different ways to approach the altar. In Guadalajara, most of the attendees get down on both knees and shuffle forwards. In San Juan, just outside of Uruapan, devotees *DANCE* towards the altar! Even though there is no music played inside the church. There's always a party in Mexico, even in church! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1054-L.jpg This little guy's skateboard was broken, so I got my tools out and got down to do some road-side repairs Building a family is very important in Mexico. While in Canada and the US, the incidences of child-free couples are increasing, Neda and I are viewed as quite the oddity here for opting not to have kids. Mexico is a festive country, with bright primary colours decorating all the buildings and every other person seems to be either playing or carrying a musical instrument. The presence of lots of children running around the streets just adds to this joyful atmosphere, and you can't help but be infected with the festive spirit. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0840-L.jpg Changing out a lightbulb in Angangueo http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0887-L.jpg Swapping out my battery at Garry and Ivonne's place in Mexico City Our bikes have been holding up well so far, other than routine maintenance, the only worrying problem is the plug for my primary headlight has broken (melted and disintegrated), so the wires can't contact the base of the bulb. This is a special part that needs to be ordered and it takes a month for the part to be shipped from Germany. Since we don't stay long enough in one place, I'm going to have to figure out where we'll be in advance for a while otherwise I'll be blinding everyone with my high-beams for quite awhile. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9844-L.jpg Waiting out inclement weather in Angangueo We've been very lucky to be travelling during dry season in Mexico, and the number of rainy days we've encountered in the last three months can be counted on 3 fingers. Mexicans don't check the weather forecasts. Dry season simply means No Rain. Every time we'd tell someone about rain in the forecast, they'd look at us like we were grossly misinformed or just being stupid. Then when it did rain, I can't even describe the look of utter confusion on their faces, as if socks were falling from the sky instead of water. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1137-L.jpg Courtyard parking in Oaxaca. Despite the friendliness and hospitality in Mexico, there is still a wariness about petty theft everywhere we went. In most of our accommodations, there were always secured spaces for our motorcycles. In Oaxaca, we were only allowed to park in the courtyard during the night since the motorcycles were kept where the restaurant was set up. So every night when the restaurant closed, we moved our bikes off the street into the courtyard and at 7AM the next day, we had to wake up to move the bikes back outside. We missed the alarm one morning and got a very angry knock at the door. Customers were waiting to be seated as we sheepishly pushed our bikes back outside, sleep still in our eyes and BedHead worse than HelmetHair. We are not morning people... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...todosantos.jpg Beach at Todos Santos We had no idea what to expect when entering Mexico three months ago. All I knew was what I had seen on TV or read in the news. Mexico is in the unenviable position of being caught in the middle of the largest producer of drugs and the largest consumer of drugs. This drug trade seems to remain underground and we never saw any evidence of it the entire time we were there. It's a shame that the entire country gets painted with such a broad sensationalistic brush that it scares visitors away from such a beautiful place with amazing culture, food and friendly people. Despite this, we have run across many ex-pats who have ventured here and already know what we have just discovered: golden sandy beaches, lush forests, colonial architecture, remains of ancient civilizations, hidden underwater caves and all sorts of migratory wildlife that have travelled vasts distances to settle here (I'm referring to the ex-pats again)... Farewell Mexico, hope to see you again soon! |
Great story with fantastic photographs.ride safe & look after each other
ATB Graeme |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/78.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map78-L.jpg This is a very exciting day for us! We're leaving Mexico and heading into the 4th country of our trip. And it only took us 8 months! Yes, we are setting quite the blistering pace... It was a fine day to cross the border: sunny skies, hot weather. The exit procedure from Mexico was pretty straightforward, we just had to do the reverse of what we did when we came in: discharge the vehicle importation permit, then the tourist visa, and then get our passports stamped to exit the country. Then we had to do it all over again to enter Belize! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1508-L.jpg And then we were welcomed into Belize We didn't really know much about Belize before crossing the border, having done no research at all. It was surprising to us that English is the official language of Belize! Yay! I can communicate like a grown-up again! The other surprise was that although we had officially crossed into Central America, Belize is part of the Caribbean! Its British colonial heritage explains the English language, and it was once called the British Honduras. Also, there was a very breezy feel to all the officials we met; a laid-back attitude coupled with that easy island accent: "Everyting's gonna be alrite, mon!" http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1509-L.jpg A new wrinkle to border crossing: fumigation! We purchased the mandatory vehicle insurance just past the border and started riding towards the largest marked city on our GPS. Central America is not as well-documented as other regions, and there were two free GPS maps available on the Internet. So, we split the difference, and Neda had one copy on her GPS and I had the other. Right away, we realized we were in trouble when our GPSs pointed to two different directions... It took a bit of zooming out to figure out that there were differences in routing and streets on both maps, so we had to be a bit smart about deciding which direction to take. In the end, I'm glad we are using two different maps, because neither was totally complete and accurate and we were able to deduce which was the "better" route by comparing zoomed-out maps. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2369-L.jpg Stopping for a snack break Riding through Belize was quite a contrast to Mexico. The roads were not very well-maintained and the signage was not very helpful. Perhaps we were too used to the "Mexican way" and needed to adjust to a new country. The scenery was so lush with tall un-maintained grass surrounding us as we rode through Northern Belize. We passed several small villages and noticed a lot more multi-culturism here than in Mexico: Caribbean, Mayan, Chinese and lots of Mennonites all over the place! What was up with that? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2462-L.jpg A couple of Mennonite kids were a bit shy when they saw us approaching http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2460-L.jpg But these schoolkids were not shy at all http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2463-L.jpg Neda handed out pens to all the kids, but she ran out and this little guy got a small toy instead. He didn't seem too happy. I think he really wanted a pen... I did some reading up on the Mennonites in Belize. They originated in Prussia, but fled to other parts of the world in the 1870s when mandatory conscription conflicted with their pacifist beliefs. The Prussian Mennonites that settled in Canada moved further south in 1918 after WWI, when we introduced mandatory conscription as well. They ended up in Mexico, and AGAIN had to leave when in the 1950s, the government insisted that they enroll in the social security programs. The Mennonites finally settled in Belize where they've been since 1958. They've invigorated the agriculture industry here, turning huge tracts of tropical jungles into farmland. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1510-L.jpg Belize City was not so nice Belize City is a port town only a couple of hours ride from the border. The entire country is tiny, with a population of only 300,000 people, and almost a quarter of the population lives in this city. It used to be the capital until a huge hurricane almost decimated it over 50 years ago. The capital was then moved further inland to Belmopan. As we rode around, we found that the city doesn't seem to have a tourist district, just the port area was done up to cater to the cruise ships docking here on their way to the islands. We decided not to spend too much time here, the city was not very nice and personally, I didn't feel too safe there. We booked into a hotel at the outskirts of town and figured out where to go from here. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2373-L.jpg When in Belize, do as the tourists do: leaving the port of Belize City We've decided to take a mini-vacation! Parking the bikes at our Belize City hotel, we book a trip on a water-taxi that travels a couple of hours out to San Pedro, on the islands just off the coast. All of our reading say that the beaches there are *the* place to hang out while in Belize. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2394-L.jpg Yay! Vacation-time! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1670-L.jpg Beaches be jealous and all! Belize is expensive. With their currency pegged 2-to-1 to the US dollar, after conversion everything costs exactly the same as the US. And it's even worse on the island, where we pay US tourist prices for food and accommodations. Neda finds the cheapest hotel on the beach, and we still pay a princely sum for a slice of sunny paradise. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2409-XL.jpg Walking the streets of San Pedro http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2407-L.jpg Lazy tourists! The entire strip of San Pedro from north to south is maybe a mile long, but there are golf-carts everywhere shuttling lazy tourists from shop to restaurant to souvenir store. SMH... Actually, aren't I the one that hates hiking? I think maybe Neda is finally rubbing off on me. We walked to the very north end of the island to our hotel and the manager there is surprised that we didn't take a golf cart or taxi... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2432-L.jpg This is our hotel! We really loved it here, but didn't stay longer because it was so expensive! We spent 4 days on San Pedro being typical tourists, wandering up and down the beach, soaking up the sun and drinking beer on the patios. It was a very relaxing break from our motorcycles - after 8 months of travel, we are beginning to feel a bit fatigued from the constant motion. I think we might be due for a month-long break soon. Somewhere less expensive though... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2439-L.jpg Red Stripe! Irie, Mon! I used to drink this when I was younger, brought back memories! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2426-L.jpg White sandy beaches, azure sky and crystal clear waters - a Caribbean Paradise http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2435-L.jpg Swimming out by the docks http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2458-L.jpg I searched high and low for a Jamaican restaurant and found one at the south end of the island. There, we were serenaded with gospel music while we ate jerk chicken with rice and peas! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0934-L.jpg Fry Jacks for breakfast - a Belizean specialty. Fried, golden dough stuffed with whatever you want inside! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0933-L.jpg Relaxing in hammocks at our hotel... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2449-L.jpg ...Spending the day lounging around, watching all sorts of traffic pass by. Heaven! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/79.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map79-L.jpg The barrier reef just off the coast of the Belize is the main attraction for tourists. It provides a natural habitat for all sorts of coral and marine wildlife. Scuba and snorkeling are very popular, so on one of our vacation days, we rented a boat to take us underwater sightseeing. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1518-L.jpg As our boat anchored near the reef, it was cool watching the waves from the ocean abruptly stop seemingly in the middle of nowhere http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1769-L.jpg Neda looks like a superheroine! AquaGirl! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1536-L.jpg AquaGirl chases after a Nurse Shark. Um, is that really a good idea? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1542-L.jpg Chasing after a stingray. Is there no animal dangerous enough for AquaGirl not to chase after?!? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1611-L.jpg Stingrays and a Nurse Shark have a little conference at the bottom of the seafloor regarding the AquaGirl problen... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1699-L.jpg Because I lack the superpowers to chase after sharks and stingrays, this is more my speed... Our three-hour tour took us to three different locations around the reef, our favorite was Shark Ray Alley, where we saw all the sharks, stingrays and turtles. We also visited Hol Chan and the Coral Gardens, spending about an hour at each location. There was supposed to be another couple on our boat, but since they bailed, we had the whole tour to ourselves, so we stayed in the waters until we were (I was) tired. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1748-L.jpg Fish hanging out at a coral http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1741-L.jpg Beautiful giant turtle! Seeing these grand creatures up close made me a bit emotional, because it made me think back to a couple of months ago when we were at Todos Santos releasing newly-born baby turtles into the ocean. I imagined that these were the all-grown-up versions! It brought a tear to my goggles... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1689-L.jpg If it seems crowded down here, it's because... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN1642-XL.jpg ... of this guy above us Apparently this boat comes to the same place every morning to gather conches. This guy removes the meat and throws the shells back into the ocean. He has a deal with the snorkeling tours that every once in a while he'll throw some meat overboard and the marine wildlife go into a feeding frenzy for some yummy snail-snacks. They then get trained to come back to the same spot every single morning. This way the snorkel tours can guarantee that you'll see lots of fish, sharks, stingrays, turtles, etc. I'm not sure I agree with this practice, but as a tourist, we certainly got a lot of great pictures. Oh, and he fed us some fresh conch meat as well - it was delicious! On second-thought, I whole-heartedly agree with this practice! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1730-L.jpg Chasing after my grown-up baby turtle! "Come back, I want a family portrait!" You can see the floor lined with conch shells from the fishing boat above. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1685-L.jpg Neda thinks this is some kind of pufferfish. Has a very human-like face! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1666-L.jpg Giant killer turtle spies lunch in the distance http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1766-L.jpg Skimming the sea floor http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1657-L.jpg Giant turtle convention http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1644-L.jpg Suckerfish attached to the turtles belly, feeding off the scraps the turtle leaves behind http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1621-L.jpg This guy wrote his name on a stingray. I'm not sure that was very nice, but it looked kinda cool... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1597-L.jpg Diving around the reefs http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1602-L.jpg Neda says this fish reminds her of Dory from Finding Nemo. I'm getting kinda hungry at this point... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1557-L.jpg Diving around the reefs at the Coral Garden http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1573-L.jpg A lot of these fish are not shy at all, swimming everywhere and brushing up against us http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1586-L.jpg Some fish are shy and hide out in the coral. I suspect these are the ones that taste the best... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1770-L.jpg Diving down to see more coral, the water was so clear even at that depth! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1783-L.jpg Hooligans! The lot of them! |
Amazing...truly Amazing :thumbup1::clap:
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/80.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map80-L.jpg We would love to have stayed longer in San Pedro, but when we initially entered the country, we had only applied for a 1-week visa, thinking it was such a small country, how long would we need? The 4 day stopover in the islands was entirely unplanned and as we sat in our hammocks on the beach, we regretted only applying for 1 week. I think it worked out in the end, because we probably would have drained all our travel funds in this one place. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1795-L.jpg Neda is Belizeing a path through the lush scenery! After getting off the water taxi back to Belize City, we rode a very short distance to San Ignacio, which is close to the Belize/Guatemala border. We're stopping here for the evening to get all our documents in order for the border crossing. As we walked around the small tourist area (a single street) in San Ignacio, we noticed we were in the company of a lot of foreign tourists. We eavesdropped on a few of them and recognized that subtle Canadian accent that separated them from Americans - also the way Canadians always end their sentences on a higher pitch, as if constantly asking a question. Belize is very popular with North Americans because the primary language here is English, even though more than half of the population speaks Spanish. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2467-L.jpg Neda makes a new friend while walking around San Ignacio There's not much to see in the town of San Ignacio. It's more of a hub for the tours that fan out to see the Tikal ruins or cave tubing or other adventure sports in the area. Since we blew our budget in San Pedro, we're going to skip Tikal and head straight for the Guatemala border the next morning. That, and our 7-day Belizean insurance expires on Feb-29-2013. There is no Feb-29th! So because of an insurance slip-up, we're leaving on the 28th, just to "insure" we don't run into any problems! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1803-L.jpg Bye-Bye San Igancio, we're going to Guatemala! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2488-L.jpg Roadside stop to pet a horsie... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1811-L.jpg Aduana (Customs) at the Belize/Guatemala border The Guatemala customs border was fairly easy, at least according to Neda as she did all the talking, since she was the Spanish-language expert. I noticed that the border official we were dealing with was originally very cool towards us, almost annoyed at us, until Neda started speaking fluent Espanol. Then instantly he warmed up to us. Actually he warmed up to Neda. He was still annoyed at my amateurish attempts to speak Spanish. So I just shut up and tried to stay out of the way as Neda got us out of Belize and into Guatemala in a heartbeat, telling jokes and charming all the border people in Spanish. I think this is the primary reason why people report so much difficulty crossing Central American borders - not being able to communicate in the official language. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1812-L.jpg Ta-DA! We don't need no steenkin helpers, we have a Neda! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1817-L.jpg Amazing roads in Guatemala http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1822-L.jpg Passing lots of farmland in the north of Guatemala We're kind of heading south-west, back towards the Mexican border, trying to get as much distance done today. The roads are in way better shape than Belize, and it surprised us a bit. Quite a lot of twists and turns along the way which made us happy as well. There's a bit of a discrepancy between our two GPS maps. Neda's map routes us quite a distance to the south, while mind shaves off 150kms and seems like it's a more direct route. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1830-L.jpg This is the reason - ferry crossing at Sayaxche Turns out Neda's map didn't know there was a ferry to take us across at Sayaxche, while mine did. I'm glad we've got two different maps to consult. The ferry was powered by a small outboard motor off towards the side! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2510-L.jpg 10 minutes waiting for the ferry to load, 5 minutes to cross http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1837-L.jpg Riding through Sayaxche We were running low on Quetzals, since we didn't buy too many from the money changers running around at the border, fearing that they'd rip us off with exorbitant exchange rates. Unfortunately, my bank card doesn't seem to work in Guatemala, something that Kari (fellow Canuck we met in Oaxaca) had warned me about over e-mail. So Neda is officially our money person for this country. I am feeling a bit like a useless appendage on this leg of our trip. My wife plans the route, finds the hotels, does all the border crossings and gets all the money. All I do is take pictures... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2517-XL.jpg Posing in Sayaxche It was getting pretty late so we decide to stop in Sayaxche for the evening. We found a casita just outside of town to stay for the night. The owner had twin 10-year-old boys who clamoured around the motorcycles and peppered me with a million and one questions in Spanish. Since Neda was already busy talking to someone else, I had to fend for myself. Guatemalan Spanish sounds a lot different than the Mexican Spanish I had learned in La Paz, so I had no idea what these two boys were asking me, which frustrated both of them! They brought out their English textbooks but because they only studied family members, were only able to ask if I had a grandmother, a sister, a nephew... Finally Neda finished up and was able to translate for them: they wanted a ride around the block on the back of the bike! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2522-L.jpg Taking one of the twins out for a spin around the block So I made them a deal: they could each take turns sitting in the back if they guided me into town and then helped me with my Espanol so I could buy groceries for dinner. To further thank them, I also bought them some chocolate, so I think I've made some friends for life.. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2530-L.jpg Renaldo and Rivaldo hanging out in our room playing video games on our computers and iPhones. When their mother called them out to finish their homework, they were very disappointed! I took each of the twins out separately to the corner store for chocolate. The second twin was very sneaky - while in town, he wanted to extend his ride a bit longer so he made me do 7 left-hand turns in a row... all the while the GPS in front of me was drawing nice overlapping squares all over the map... :) |
Amazing
Your trip is an adventure that you will remember for a lifetime. Iam very envious of you all. I hope that you have a Great Trip.
Respectfully, Rickey Christian Motorcycle Association Messiahs Messengers, USA, Missouri |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/81.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map81-L.jpg We've got a couple of travel days ahead of us, as we are booked for more Spanish school in Quetzeltenango in the south of Guatemala next week. Since we're dropping into the country at the very north end, we've got some mileage to do, so not a lot of pictures off the bike. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1841-L.jpg We ride through many villages, some tiny, others a bit larger It's a rainy ride through the northern department (states are called departments in Guatemala) of Peten. The first time we've ridden in rain for months. The land here is very flat but the hills start to turn into mountains, as we enter the central highlands of the southern region. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2532-L.jpg Vast tracts of farmland everywhere! Guatemala is so lush! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2539-L.jpg Weather is slightly cooler, so we didn't mind donning our rainsuits http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2548-L.jpg Women carrying bowls of corn on their head. If they were carrying jars, the jars were always painted with stripes http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2555-XL.jpg Hilly terrain in the background Our stop for the evening is in a town called Coban, in the department of Alta Verapaz. Instead of looking for accommodations right away, we ate a late lunch in a restaurant. When we came out to the bikes, Neda exclaimed, "Oh no! One of my dry bags must have fallen off!" Upon inspection, someone had cut the Rok-Straps holding the bag onto the sidecase and made off with a sleeping bag and pillow. Most of the stuff not in our hardcases are just clothing, sleeping bags and camping equipment. Nothing that we'd thought we'd be too bummed out about if they were stolen. Until it was stolen... It's still a hassle having to replace it, and the Drybag and the Rok-Straps are not as easy to find around here. So we are kind of bummed. I'm thinking about getting a PacSafe to secure our drybags, but I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle of locking and unlocking every night. The thief hid between Neda's bike and a parked car next to it while he worked away at cutting the straps holding the drybag down. Since we parked on a quiet side-street, they took advantage of the fact that there was little traffic around the area. We are parking in the middle of crowded streets next time! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2558-L.jpg Some colonial buildings in downtown Coban After finding a hotel, we walked through the markets in Coban and Neda told me she was half-hoping to find her sleeping bag for sale in one of the stalls! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2559-XL.jpg Walking the wet streets of Coban Our next riding day to Quetzaltenango was much dryer. Neda's GPS pointed to a 450 km round about way all the way south-east, through Guatemala City and then back west again. My GPS had a much shorter route, although it wasn't on a highway, was only 250 kms! Since we had good luck with my map on the way to Sayaxche, we decided to follow my GPS again. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN1879-XL.jpg Stuck in a religious parade in the streets of one of the villages we rode through http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1880-L.jpg Neda's bike looks unbalanced without the right drybag Not to spend too much time dwelling on the stolen drybag, since we've basically shrugged it off by now - there's a saying, "Don't bring anything that you can't afford to lose". However, there were two drybags on Neda's bike, one containing my sleeping bag and an old ratty pillow that Neda's been trying to get me throw out but I love it cause it's so comfortable. The other contains Neda's sleeping bag and a special orthopedic pillow that you can fill with water. This was given to us by a friend before we left. And of course, this was the one that was stolen... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1884-L.jpg The road is getting a bit gravelly... But the scenery rocks! I mean, there are a lot of rocks here... The northern road through the mountains of the central highlands turns from broken asphalt to hard packed gravel, and then mud and loose stone. We have to make it to Quetzaltenango to meet our host family in the evening, and our estimated time of arrival is not looking very realistic given the terrain. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1888-L.jpg Steep drop on the left as we encounter wide traffic ahead http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1890-L.jpg She'll be coming 'round the mountain when she comes! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1892-L.jpg Amazing views! We are glad we took this route instead of the highway, but it's taking a lot of time http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1897-L.jpg "'Let's take the shortcut', he says. 'This'll save us some time', he says..." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1898-L.jpg Oh, and also mud. Next to sand, our favorite terrain... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1900-L.jpg Some really tiny villages http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1923-L.jpg And then a bridge. Is that pavement at the other end? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1932-L.jpg Pavement! We were going to be a couple of hours late, so at a restaurant in one of the villages we passed through, we borrowed a phone and called the school to let them know. We arrived in Quetzeltenango late in the evening, with the temperatures dropping to single digits. Shivering in the town square, we waited for our host family to arrive and take us to a warm home. |
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I have been following your adventure from the outset. I continue to be amazed at the photos, maps and the commentary, simply exceptional. You guys have inspired me to a point where the house and all but the collectable items are on the market! Thank you and cheers Dave:-) |
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/82.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map82-L.jpg Quetzeltenango is quite a mouthful, but the town is also known as Xela (Shay-La), its indigenous name. It's the second largest city in Guatemala, and it's where we're going to stay for the next week learning more Spanish. As in most Latin American towns, the main square, called Parque Central is where most of the people congregate, day and night, and after classes we take the opportunity to walk around and people-watch. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2738-L.jpg This church is called Iglesia del Espiritu Santu http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2746-L.jpg Candles vendor outside the church http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2725-XL.jpg Intense lunch break at Parque Central http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2701-L.jpg More leisurely lunch break, man's best friend in tow http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2586-L.jpg Neda's Spanish teacher, Susanne. Hours of fun dialog everyday! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2940-XL.jpg Our Spanish school has tables scattered all over the building, with teachers and students paired off one-on-one Xela is quite a popular place for Spanish classes. Since it's a university town, there's an air of scholarliness everywhere, and it's not uncommon to see coffee shops and diners filled with students deep in study in a textbook. And the tuition fees are a fraction of what we paid in La Paz! We are amazed at the disparity in prices between the two countries. Mexico now seems like a such first-world country compared to Guatemala in terms of the modernity but also how expensive everything was! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2751-L.jpg Shopping in the market after classes, schoolbooks in hand http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2765-XL.jpg Street vendors having a yak and a laugh http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2774-XL.jpg Waiting for a bus http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2595-XL.jpg A couple of fellow students took us to their favorite Mennonite bakery. Yummy pastries here! Spanish is still coming very slowly for me. The accent is a little different from Mexico (they say Guatemalans speak a purer form of Spanish, closer to Spain), and some words are bit different here. Plus I'm not a very scholarly person to begin with... I barely scraped by in school and had (still have) trouble sitting still for long periods of time and concentrating on a single task. Neda is the complete opposite and if she had her wish, she'd be a student for life. What I really enjoyed about our Spanish school was that every evening, they had extra-curricular activities planned. One night we took some Salsa lessons, and another day, Mario, my Spanish teacher, took us sightseeing. We hiked to the top of a lava dome called El Baul, overlooking Xela to get a better view of the city. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2662-XL.jpg The view was nice, but these slides at the top were way more fun! Neda may be a bright Spanish student, but she's a little slow at slides... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2958-XL.jpg March beneath our school windows for International Women's Day Another trivial comparison between Mexico and Guatemala are the size of the food portions. Both our homestay and restaurant meals were very modest-sized and made our Mexican meals seem Texas-Super-Sized. Because I lack self-control when it comes to eating, I'm very glad that the portions here are normal-size and I can feel myself losing the Taco-Gut I gained in Mexico. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2573-L.jpg Night-time brings out amazing colours in the old city http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2947-L.jpg We passed by this vendor's stall every day on the way home from school http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2968-L.jpg Buildings around Parque Central http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2969-L.jpg Our school is located inside a beautiful colonial building called Pasaje Enriquez, right in the Parque Central. On the ground floor are several bars and restaurants On another evening, our school organized a dinner for all the staff and students, and we spent the evening getting to know each other. This was such an amazing opportunity to hear stories very similar to our own. Travellers to Guatemala seem to share that very rare sense of adventure and we all nodded our heads to the familiar questions from back home: "Why on earth do you want to go to Guatemala/Central America/etc?" It was a question that none of us needed to answer, as we already knew. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2972-L.jpg Birds of a feather, flocking together over dinner http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2973-L.jpg After dinner, we went out to enjoy Xela's very vibrant nightlife http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2976-L.jpg Students and teachers mingle in a nightclub http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2979-XL.jpg Peruvian pan flute provides a soundtrack to our lively evening |
Wow ! what a fantastic ride report.
I managed last year to ride round the world but you pictures leave mine in the shadows ! What camera are you using for your shots ? Thanks Geordie aka Will |
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/83.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map83-L.jpg During the middle of the week our Spanish teachers, Susanne and Mario, take us out on a field trip to a local town just outside of Xela called San Andres Xecul to practice our Espanol. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2782-L.jpg Waiting for our "bus" to fill up before heading out http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2784-L.jpg And we're off! Transportation Guatemala-stylez! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2863-L.jpg View of San Andres Xecul from the top of the hill San Andres Xecul is a quaint little town set against the mountainside of the Guatemalan highlands. It's famous for its brightly coloured yellow church. After the Spanish invaded Central America, there was much suspicion of the Catholic church, so as a peace offering, this church was painted in indigenous colours to entice them to attend. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2812-XL.jpg Thursday is market day, so the town square was filled with women either selling or buying stuff. And children supervising the process... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2797-L.jpg Candles sold outside the church http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2819-XL.jpg Spanish hymns were softly sung at the front of the church, the devotion is palpable in the air. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2935-L.jpg Most of the women wore the colourful, traditional clothing of the indigenous Maya My teacher, Mario, is very knowledgeable about the history of the Maya. He told us that to this day, the indigenous population is largely discriminated against by the rest of Guatemala and treated very poorly. The main differentiator between the Mayans and the rest of the society is their native clothing, and some modern Maya (mainly the men) have given up traditional garb in order escape discrimination and to secure jobs. The women face less pressure as they either work in the markets or look after the children, and are more able to display the clothing of their past with pride. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2828-L.jpg Rearranging the "storefront" http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2832-L.jpg Personal grooming is very important in sales http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2853-XL.jpg Accompanying mom to the market http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2837-L.jpg Brightly coloured church overlooks all market transactions http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2843-XL.jpg Trying to get a good deal... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2881-XL.jpg So much character in the people and the streets of San Andres Xecul http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2890-L.jpg San Simon - not your average Saint... Mario took us to a private residence, and we walked through someone's living room, through their backyard into a shed where a shrine was set up to the Mayan god, San Simon. Worshiped by the ancient Mayans as a symbol of male sexual power, today he is depicted as a man dressed in 20th century clothing, smoking a cigarette with bottles of booze around his waist, sometimes carrying a rifle. I am not joking. San Simon has been denounced by the Catholic church and he has been identified with Judas Iscariot. All this makes the "outlaw saint" even more popular with the indigenous population. Many shrines are set up in private houses hidden away from the authorities, and different coloured candles are sold to visitors so that they can be burned at his feet to bring success, wealth and power. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2904-L.jpg Our teacher Mario looks on, while Neda asks San Simon for his blessings in our travels Different coloured candles signify different meanings. Blue is supposed to bring good luck for travel, white is for spiritual well-being, yellow is for personal protection and red is for luck in love. There are also black candles, and those are meant to wish ill will or harm to others! San Simon is not really a saint, but an amoral Mayan god that is supposed to grant all wishes, good or bad. It's easy to see the allure of such a deity amongst the downtrodden indigenous population. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2906-L.jpg The "patron saint of drunkards and gamblers" looks on in satisfaction while our candles burn at his feet. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_2925-XL.jpg The ground is covered in melted wax from all the other visitors who have come here with candles in hand and prayers in their hearts. |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/84.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map84-L.jpg We met Craig and Chihiro at our Spanish school in Xela and got along really well. They're also two wandering souls who have travelled much of the world together and by themselves, so we had a great time comparing notes. They were going to visit Las Fuentes Georginas hot springs outside of Xela on the weekend, so they invited us to come along! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2991-L.jpg We boarded a Chicken Bus with a whole bunch of indigenous women! The primary mode of public transportation in Guatemala is a Chicken Bus. Not Pollo Autobus, they actually call it a Chicken Bus. It's usually a retired American school bus that's failed safety and emissions tests. We play a game of Rate The Chicken Bus as we pass them. We boo and hiss at the ones that still have the yellow paint showing and very little decorations and cheer the buses that are multi-coloured and are blinged out with chrome and additional foglights. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3011-L.jpg This is actually a poor example of a Chicken Bus. Not decorated enough... We're on our way to the town of Zunil, at the base of the hills where the hot springs are located. Along the way we pass many farms and workers in the field. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_2992-L.jpg Patchwork of farmland outside the town of Zunil http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3000-L.jpg Workers harvesting green onions From Zunil, we negotiated a truck ride up to the hillside spa. It's a narrow, twisty road and we regretted not bringing the bikes, but we wanted to be social and spend the day with Craig and Chihiro. What started out as a simple trip to a hot springs actually turned out to be an agricultural tour. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3046-L.jpg Thoroughly enjoying riding in the back of a truck! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3042-L.jpg Taken from the back of the moving truck! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3036-L.jpg As we climbed higher, the farmland started to resemble a colourful quilt http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3048-L.jpg Surprised to see how far up the tracts of farmland extend up the sides of the hill http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3063-L.jpg Some of the tracts must have been almost vertical! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3065-L.jpg We weren't the only ones enjoying the view I think we got a very skewed view of agriculture in Guatemala, because when I did some research later on, I was surprised to learn that the country cannot grow enough crops to feed their own population, having to import grains and other foods. Although we were travelling through fertile lands, there is a large swath of the country to the north called the Dry Corridor, which receives very little rainfall and is prone to chronic drought. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3072-XL.jpg Arriving at Las Fuentes Georginas The air up here is misty as we pay the foreigner prices (double what the locals pay) to enter what looks to be a very exclusive spa. Well-fed locals hang out at the pools that are fed by thermal springs from the Zunil volcano. They're joined by a busload of college kids from the US. Although it's a very picturesque site with relaxing hot waters, it's not probably something regular Guatemalans are able to visit. In Zunil, there are dirty bath houses with small concrete basins that are fed thermal hot water from hoses. These are types of luxuries that that the regular townsfolk treat themselves to. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3075-L.jpg Nice lookouts at the Fuentes Georginas spa http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3078-XL.jpg The main pool, temperature must be about 40C http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1936-L.jpg Neda confirms it: 40C! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1939-L.jpg After a while you get used to the heat http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN1946-XL.jpg Neda doesn't want to leave http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN1951-XL.jpg Last look at Las Fuentes Georginas http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3100-L.jpg Having a good time back in Xela. Having dinner in our new favorite restaurant owned by a Singaporean woman, specializing in all Asian cuisine! |
Updated from Mar 12 2013: Relaxing in Panajachel
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map85-L.jpg After a week of Spanish classes in Xela, we get back on our motorcycles and explore Guatemala a bit more. Pananjachel is about an hour and a half outside of Xela, on a very entertaining twisty road up and through the mountains of the highlands. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1959-L.jpg Misty mountainside - temperatures got quite cold, dipping to single digits! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1966-L.jpg Passing by many fields covering the landscape of the Guatemalan Highlands http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1969-L.jpg Cheers for the bling on this Chicken Bus! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1974-L.jpg Winner, Winner, Chicken (bus) Dinner! We got a bit lost in Pana, looking for the hostel that the the folks in Xela recommended. It was quite a claustrophic adventure navigating the many tiny alleyways off the main Calle Santander, some of them small enough to only fit a Tuk Tuk or motorcycle - traffic has to wait at either end of the street until one vehicle has made it through! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1975-L.jpg Looking for our hostel http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1978-L.jpg Uh oh, dead end. Believe or not, my 12GS did a 3-point turn to get out! No, actually, it was a 12-point turn... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1979-L.jpg Neda gets some helpful directions http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1810-L.jpg So narrow! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN1985-XL.jpg Finally, we found our hostel and the parking lot is narrower than the streets! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0951-L.jpg The hostel employs a colourful security guard that yells out "Hola!" whenever anyone gets close to our bikes http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3118-XL.jpg Vendors selling clothing off Calle Santander, Panajachel's main street Panajachel is mainly known for its street vendors and markets, and is a popular place to launch trips across Lake Atitlan to other locations, like San Pedro. We are only here for four days, so we just hang around town, walking around the stalls and sampling some of the delicious food. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...alaysian-L.jpg Hanging out with Ling, the owner of Chinitas While we were in Panajachel, Guatemala, we ate dinner at a fantastic Malaysian restaurant. The owner came out to greet us and was surprised and delighted to find out I was Malaysian as well. Free dessert for the Malaysian Customer of the Day -- cause there are so many that come in every single day... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1831-L.jpg Surrounded by volcanoes, Lake Atitlan is the deepest lake in Central America The people walking around here are a curious mix of indigenous Maya vendors, typical gringo tourists and hippie residents that migrated here in the 60s. They left in droves after war broke out, but repopulated again in the mid-90s. In Xela, we talked with our teachers and they remembered the civil war vividly, about how families were torn apart, sons of the villages drafted by the military to kill their own townspeople or be killed themselves. It was such a sad history that is still remembered by anyone over the age of 30. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3120-L.jpg Tuk Tuks drafting through the streets of Panajachel http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3123-L.jpg Hey, it's the same Chicken Bus we saw on the road to Pana! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3125-L.jpg Lorenzo's Land http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3127-XL.jpg Trying to find a nice wrap to go with his shoes http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3167-L.jpg Getting my finger chewed on by a cute puppy http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3189-L.jpg Neda does some chain maintenance with a little help from Ashley Heins--- http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0956-L.jpg Our hostel has a kitchen, so Neda whipped us up a great salad and we ate with our bikes |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/86.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map86-L.jpg We never wanted this trip to be a trek. We didn't want our blog to read "xx miles, xx countries in xx days" because that was like all our other motorcycle trips, rushing through exotic countries and only seeing the 200 feet on either side of the road as we sped towards the end of our allotted vacation days for the year. Unfortunately, we had made an appointment many months ago, that at the time seemed to give us a lot of leeway to meander on our journey. Lately, the clock has started ticking down and we find ourselves running out of runway, as there are a couple thousand kms and 5 border crossings we have to make in the next 10 days. Impossible, given our current pace. We've made the decision to come straight back to Central America after our appointment - there is just too much that we're missing. So I've condensed the next week and a half of travels into a single entry because it sucks too much to spend a lot of time on it. And also we didn't really see anything... Here are some notes on our trip down the PanAmerican Highway: http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN1988-XL.jpg Taking the dog out for a spin http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1992-L.jpg Group ride out of Pana! We left hastily out of Pana. In the rush, I lost a really good pair of earphones. I know, blah blah, first world problems... We feel like we're being torn away from Guatemala without having seen everything we wanted to see, so this is exactly where we're going to return to, to resume our Central American tour. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN1999-L.jpg Accident on the PanAm in Guatemala The PanAmerican Highway is not really one defined road, but a collection of routes that span from Prudhoe Bay in Alaska all the way to the southern tip of Argentina. Despite many detours along the way, we've basically followed the PanAm on our trip after criss-crossing Canada. Through Central America, it's a fairly well-maintained stretch of pavement with some interesting sections that pass through mountains and volcanoes, but on our return, it would be nice to see what else lies off this well-beaten path. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2011-L.jpg Aduana at the El Salvador border http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0959-L.jpg Aduana is Spanish for "nap" http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2012-L.jpg Finally, we're through! Crossing into El Salvador, we are delayed because the Vehicle Importation Computer is down. We sit for four hours waiting for the system to come back up and by the time we get through the border, the sun is getting lower in the sky. We don't want to travel at night, so in desperation we book into an Auto Hotel just outside of San Salvador. The infamous Auto Hotel in Central America is also called a Love Hotel, and is usually rented out by the hour, if you get what I mean... Each room has its own private garage with a door that closes. We thought it was for security, but it's really to hide the license plate of the car parked there for a few hours. All communication with hotel staff is done through a small cupboard at one end of the room with doors inside the room and outside into the office. You never have to see or speak to staff, just deposit your money in the cupboard, close the door, they open it on the other side and deposit towels and soaps (and condoms) for you. Mirrors are strategically placed beside the bed and there is a paper towel dispenser within reach to clean up any messes. I thought it was hilarious! Neda was kinda grossed out. We slept in the one remaining sleeping bag that wasn't stolen back in Guatemala... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2022-L.jpg Our most memorable crossing, and not for good reasons... Honduras El Salvador came and went in a day, and I was battling fatigue because I didn't get a good night's sleep in the Love Hotel. I must have also picked up a flu overnight, but we forged ahead to the Honduras. Despite it being very early in the day, I wanted to stop and find a place to sleep before reaching the border to recuperate, but Neda was convinced we could cross two borders in one day and reach Nicaragua for the evening. I wasn't feeling up to it, but since Neda was doing all the work at the immigration and customs offices, my only duty was to stay conscious and keep the bike upright. As we approached Honduras, we were swarmed by a mob of "helpers" offering to speed us through all the red tape for a fee. Most dropped away when they heard Neda's fluent Spanish, but one hung on despite our polite refusal, following us from office to office peppering us with helpful tips and hints, hoping to guilt us into paying him... Nice try... Through my feverish haze, I saw Neda run back and forth through 3 or 4 different offices trying to get our bikes stamped into the country. Everytime I asked what she was doing, she replied, "Making photocopies!" Apparently, in this day and age when EVERYTHING is computerized, Central American governments have invested heavily in shares of Xerox and Domtar... I was in charge of holding the documents as we biked from immigration to customs. When you carry everything you own on a motorcycle, every item has its place. Because we were changing our routine, I was now keeping our documents in my tankbag instead of in one of the lockable cases. Which meant that my motorcycle gloves, which I normally keep in my tankbag, were now in... I still have no idea... Those were really good gloves, too. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2031-L.jpg Motoring through Honduras - elapsed time in the country: 2.5 hours We raced through the tiny stretch of the PanAm in Honduras and reached the Nicaraguan border very late in the day and I was a bit upset that we would be riding through the dark to reach the hotel we had reserved. Throughout the last couple of days, we've been bickering at each other, especially at border crossings. It's a stressful time getting yourselves through, much less importing a vehicle into the country as well. I was dealing with a flu and feeling frustrated that I was unable to help because of my inadequate Spanish. Add to it that I'm not coping very well with the heat and humidity and Neda doesn't cope very well when she's hungry... This is not fun for either of us. It's not even fun writing this down and I just want to end this entry but it's important to have a record of all this "not fun" later. Much later... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2039-L.jpg Aduana at Nicaragua Some helpers approach us at the Nicaraguan border, but not as many as at the Honduras. It seems that the Honduran border is the most complicated process to negotiate in Central America, and the number of helpers reflect that. El Salvador was easy - no helpers there. So now when we approach a new border crossing, we can gauge how easy it will be by how many helpers swarm us! Useful, practical information! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2042-L.jpg Nicaragua. yay. *yawn* Having knocked down 3 of 5 border crossings, we bought ourselves a little downtime - especially for me to get over my flu. We stopped for a few nights in Estelie, Nicaragua - actually for a couple of nights longer than we expected we would because I gave Neda my flu. So we were both bedridden at the same time. OMG, so much UnFUN, I can't handle it! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2051-L.jpg Motoring through Nicaragua http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2053-L.jpg "Hello Muddah, Hello Fadduh, Here I am at..." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2057-L.jpg Perhaps the only picture we took of Granada. Didn't see a thing... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2065-L.jpg Next border, Costa Rica. Didn't see a thing. But it was the most expensive nothing we saw... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2079-L.jpg Somwhere along the way, it got cold and foggy on the PanAm http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN2097-XL.jpg By this time, Neda is a pro at border crossings, so this was one of the easier ones We arrived in Panama licking our wounds. So far over the last week and a half, we've both gotten sick, I've lost a pair of earphones and a pair of motorcycle gloves, left my credit card in a restaurant and had to have it couriered back to us while we were en route, saw nothing but road, took no pictures... All because we're rushing to meet a deadline. This was not why we left our jobs and sold everything! We vowed, no more booking stuff in advance, even if it's months away! Just one day at a time from now on. If that means missing out on some opportunities tomorrow, that's okay as long as we don't have to rush through today. It's just not worth it. On an upbeat note, all these border-crossing ordeals have been good practice for when we return to see Central America properly! Neda is going to try to make a few bucks on the side being a helper... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3287-XL.jpg Drummers practicing in Panama City For the last few months, we've been in constant contact with Kari and Rose, the fellow Canadian bikers who we met in Oaxaca. They were also in Panama City, so we spent a few days comparing notes, exchanging GPS files and sharing a few meals together. It was nice having some familiar faces to hang out with. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0966-L.jpg Bikes get their first bath in months While in Panama City, we took time to get everything sorted out - shopping for supplies and taking care of the motorcycles. We dropped into the local BMW dealership to replace the gloves I lost at the Honduran border. While we were there, we popped into the service centre to see if they had the plug for my headlight. They didn't have the part in stock, but the technician told me to bring the bike in anyway. Less than an hour later, he had fixed the light, jury-rigging it with a couple of blade connectors! Best part, it was free of charge! So let's end this entry on a happy note! Yay! |
Update from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/87.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map87-L.jpg We're here for our scheduled appointment. Google Maps tells us that there is no way to get from North America to South America by road. The Darien Forest, or Darien Gap, starts at the southern tip of Panama and runs all the way to Colombia. Apparently, this a real life Forest of Despair, but instead of Rodents of Unusual Sizes, they have Poison Arrow Dart Frogs! And no fireswamp or lightning sand, but plenty of Marxist Guerillas with Gun of Unusual Sizes! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2107-L.jpg We turn off the PanAm Highway, and take a windy road through thick Panamanian rain forests The PanAmerican Highway stops at the edge of the Darien Forest. Despite several construction attempts, no road connects the two continents because of the ecological damage it would cause to the indigenous tribes and wildlife that live there, and the governments involved do not want to create an easy path for drug smugglers to traffic narcotics from Colombia up to North America. Interestingly, the Darien Gap has also prevented the spread of diseases from South America into Central and North America, like foot and mouth disease. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0968-L.jpg Everywhere in Central America, our GPSes fascinate the locals There are only two ways to cross the Darien Gap, by sea or by air. We opt for the water option, so we have to travel a couple of hours from Panama City to a pier at the deserted Carti Airport, on the Caribbean coast of Panama. The road twists through miles of lush, green jungles and of course, because we washed the bikes in Panama City the day before, it rains on us... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1031-L.jpg Parked on the shores of Carti beach, our ride waiting in the distance http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3313-L.jpg Talking with Cornelius, another moto-nomad from Australia We're travelling with a lot of familiar faces on this leg of our journey. We met Trevor at the Horizons Unlimited meeting in California last October, and saw Cornelius there as well but didn't get a chance to speak to him. I had a feeling we would get to know everyone on board a lot better in the next few days! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3545-L.jpg The Stahlratte, German for "Steel Rat", is a pirate ship, capable of escaping FARC Insurgents and making the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs After a lot of research, we chose the Stahlratte to cross the Darien Gap. This is the appointment we were rushing through Central America to make. It started life 110 years ago as a fishing vessel and has lived many lives since then, from a Rainbow Warrior for Greenpeace till now, a Round-The-World sailboat that has gotten "stuck" in the Caribbean, living the sun-drenched dream and ferrying passengers between Panama, Colombia and the islands in between for the last 8 years to fund its voyage. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3298-L.jpg Dinghies and small boats carry supplies and our luggage from the shore to the Stahlratte Because we have a small window of time reserved to use the pier to load the motorcycles, we use most of the morning to remove all the luggage off our bikes and transport them onboard, where we're treated to a quick lunch - the first of many famously delicious Stahlratte meals - before going back on shore and prepping the bikes. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1035-L.jpg Carb loading first, then bike loading next! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1040-L.jpg Our luggage arrives by dinghy and is brought into the hold of the ship http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3336-L.jpg Back on shore, bikes are lined up on the pier ready to be brought on board http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1042-L.jpg We lined up last. If anything went wrong, it'd be easier to back out that way! There is no ramp to ride or push the motorcycles on-board. Everything has to be done off a narrow pier. We watched everyone else's motorcycles get winched up by a pulley off the pier and then over the edge of the deck of the ship. The hired hands seemed to be very experienced and capable and I felt a lot better when it came to our turn. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1060-L.jpg Watching the Stahlratte pull into the pier, ready to eat our motorcycles http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3393-XL.jpg Ludwig, our fearless captain supervises the loading http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3415-L.jpg My baby is getting closer to the front of the line and she's getting nervous! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0051-L.jpg This is how it starts out... In our haste to get back on shore to help line the bikes up for loading, we didn't notice that the only ones left on the ship were the women. So there were 12 guys on shore rolling the motorcycles on the pier and 4 women on the boat lifting the bikes over the side of the boat onto deck. They were the ones doing all the real work! We (nervously) cheered them on from the pier... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0012-L.jpg Then up goes my bike! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0022-L.jpg Had a little problem getting my big pig over the edge of the boat, so down it went and the rope was shortened... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3468-L.jpg All bikes on deck, we're ready to set sail! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3463-L.jpg Gene: "Second star to the right, and straight on till morning!?" Ludwig: "No... we use a GPS on the Stahlratte." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3326-L.jpg Getting familiar with our home for the next few days http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3464-L.jpg Big sigh of relief. The Master Planner gets a break for a few days! Neda has been an absolute superstar over the last few months. She has planned pretty much all of our travels through Central America, doing extra duty handling the border crossings with her fluency in Spanish. For the next few days, our schedules are in the hands of the crew of the Stahlratte. Instead of having to plan for routes, search for accommodations and forage for food, we will be told when to eat and where to sleep, and all of a sudden, there is an absolute lack of responsibility for our lives. It's the best we've felt in over two weeks! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0083-XL.jpg Stay tuned for the next entry on our adventures on the high seas! |
You will have a great time on this cruise......I was looking forward to this part but in the end had to turn back before reaching Panama......enjoying your blog and following Saralou's as well...surprised you have not crossed paths...They are also in the vicinity....
All the Best Blog Spot......hickeryonthemove Bob Muskoka On::palm: |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/88.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map88-L.jpg Quote:
So with all the bikes on board, we were off into the Caribbean Sea! First stop, the San Blas islands where we are offloaded to find accommodations for the evening, since we are not officially booked to stay on the ship till the day after. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3492-XL.jpg Run off the ship, forced to fend for ourselves The San Blas islands are populated by the Kuna indians, and we are put up for the night in their huts. Most of the islands are quite tiny, we could walk the length of ours in under a minute! Their primary means of transportation is by dugout canoe, which are works of art created from a single tree trunk. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3488-L.jpg Most of the Kuna women were wearing colourful dresses and legwear We were a bit taken aback by all the flags with swastikas adorning the boats on the island and vehicles near the Carti pier the day before. But we found out that this was the flag of the Kuna Yala community that lives along the San Blas islands. It wasn't the first time we've seen non-Nazi swastikas in our travels, as our trip through India revealed their religious significance in that culture. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3496-XL.jpg Island hopping by beautiful dugout canoe http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3479-L.jpg The colourful material that the dresses are made from are called mola and are popular to tourists as well http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3504-L.jpg Neda taking a stroll around our island. This is her third time around in the last 5 minutes... We feel a bit abandoned on that tiny island, as we thought we were going to spend a night on the ship. We had to pay for our hut and we weren't able to sleep in the bed provided because Neda was allergic to all the sand fleas, so we opted to sleep in a double-hammock instead. Not a comfortable sleeping arrangement for the entire night. It was the only mis-step in our entire Stahlratte experience. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3520-XL.jpg Little Kuna girl with her puppy The next morning, a dinghy picked us up and we sailed off on the Stahlratte in search of a more deserted island to lounge around in the sun and the warm waters of the Caribbean. This truly was a vacation from our regular trip, bikes bundled against the salt water spray for the duration and us frolicking and relaxing on the boat. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0084-L.jpg Beautiful breakfast spread on the Stahlratte, surrounded by crazy Australian bikers http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0090-L.jpg Bikes are all wrapped up to protect against the corrosive sea spray - still going to hit a carwash after though! We're sharing our boat with a mostly German crew, a bunch of wacky Australian bikers, and an assortment of European backpackers and bicyclists. Quite the international bunch! Ludwig was the perfect host, having adopted a very island attitude towards everything in his 8 years in the Caribbean. Everything he said was prefaced with: "No problem", "Don't worry". It was truly a stress-free experience. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0103-L.jpg In the afternoon, we find a nice isolated island to anchor next to. BBQ is being prepared for the evening! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3534-L.jpg The deserted islands here could have been templates for all those comic strips http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3545-L.jpg Stahlratte anchored off the shore of our playground island http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3556-L.jpg After a BBQ dinner on the island, a bonfire! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0117-L.jpg Feeling very Castaway at this point. Forgot my Wilson volleyball... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3567-L.jpg Chillin' http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2152-L.jpg The next day, more watersports! Neda goes snorkeling http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2163-L.jpg Beautiful starfish - the Germans on board called this a SeaStar. After doing some snorkeling, Neda and I swim over to our own deserted island to explore a bit. It feels so wild, wide and open out here, we thought maybe we'd put up a bungalow on this island, get a dugout canoe to go grocery shopping at the Kuna Yala's next door... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2176-L.jpg Honey Ryder, GS Ryder? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1949-L.jpg "I think we'll put the swimming pool over here..." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN2180-XL.jpg Neda's shellphone seems to be getting excellent reception http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2187-L.jpg Whiling the day away on our private deserted island - so cool! <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/wDEFXip8zno" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> On the Stahlratte, they don't make you walk the plank. Instead... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...18h22m41-L.jpg Climbing 20 metres above the deck to reach the crow's nest - picture by Remo Hug http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0125-L.jpg Social time before our voyage In the middle of the night, we heard the engines turn on and we prepared ourselves for the 30-hour journey to Cartagena. I was a bit worried about getting seasick, since my last experience on the ferry between La Paz and mainland Mexico ended very badly. So while we were in Panama, we stocked up on 100 Gravol pills and made sure we started our tablet diet before we boarded the ship. We ended up both feeling ill anyway, this time it was Neda's turn to feed the fishes overboard while I ended up keeping my lunch where it belonged. The crew was very good in predicting what we needed, as the large breakfast we had the day before was replaced with a basket of bread and crackers on the kitchen table. The rest of the passengers emerged from the hold, faces green and all talk on the deck was kept to a minimum: "Pass the crackers please", "I have to puke again, excuse me, pardon me..." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0141-L.jpg Beautiful sunsets from the deck of the Stahlratte I think the point of having a rest day in San Blas was to get to know everyone socially before we all clammed up the next day due to sea-sickness. Ludwig told us that most people take 24-48 hours to get their sea-legs, which didn't help as our journey was only 30 hours long anyway. Needless to say, not a lot of pictures from our actual voyage! :) |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/89.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map89-L.jpg On the second day of travel, most of the passengers emerged from the hold of the ship feeling human again. We were landlubbers no more, and greedily shoveled down the hearty Stahlratte breakfast laid out on the top deck. For some of us, it was the first real meal we ate in over 24 hours! Our newfound sealegs were not going to be put to use, as the skyline of Cartagena emerged on the horizon in the early afternoon. South America beckoned to us! For most of the passengers it was the first time on this continent. The Stahlratte anchored down a few hundred meters away from the shores of Manga Island, where the Aduana offices were located. Because it was expensive to rent a commercial pier to offload the bikes, we used a small public pier and dinghied the bikes to shore. It was a wild process to get the bikes on land and it's a testament to the crew's experience that we timed the offload to coincide with high tide as you can see in the video below: [video]http://youtu.be/ga-IQhvz3Zo[/video] Couldn't believe how they got our bikes onto shore! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0248-L.jpg My bike needed a few extra pair of hands to haul up Since we had just unloaded the bikes illegally onto Colombian shores without customs or insurance, we were quickly hurried to the Aduana building a few short blocks away. Ludwig had arranged everything with a local fixer to get us legal, and within a few hours, all 10 bikes had all the papers required to ride in the country. We have been really impressed with how well-oiled and efficient the Stahlratte experience has been, coupling plenty of Darien crossing experience with German efficiency and Caribbean good-humour. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2197-L.jpg Riding through the old town of Cartagena http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN2208-L.jpg Arriving at our neighbourhood for the next few days We're staying in a part of town called Getsamani, a seedier district of Cartagena that recently has undergone a transformation from a past checkered with drugs and prostitution to a vibrant, hip neighbourhood of cafes, restaurants and nightclubs. We've booked a room with air-conditioning (very important) and we're initially a bit disappointed to learn that there is no hot water in the showers. Until we realize that the average temperature in Cartagena is 31C all year round. No one needs a hot water shower! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3689-L.jpg Performers at the Convention Centre in Cartagena http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3701-L.jpg Found out later this is the Caribbean Arts Festival Mornings and evenings are the best time to be out in the city, and our neighbourhood as well as the nearby historic centre is bustling with activity, both tourist and local. We both loved the colonial architecture, pretty balconies with flowers looking over cobblestone streets, and the ever present churches looming above the narrow alleyways. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3718-L.jpg Sun setting behind San Pedro Claver Church http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3747-XL.jpg Balconies everywhere! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3765-L.jpg The Cafe Del Mar is the best place in the city to watch a sunset We hung out mostly with the Stahlratte club, meeting in the evenings for drinks and walking around the city. A friend put us in touch with Nick and Clara, who live in Toronto, but spend their winters in Cartagena. We spent a couple of days with them, and they spoiled us silly, ferrying us from swimming at luxury hotels, drinks overlooking the Cartagena shore and delicious seafood dinners. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...rta_pool-L.jpg Mojitos by the poolside! Heaven! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0259-L.jpg Nick and Clara live across the Sofitel Hotel in the centro and this is how he spends every afternoon! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3776-L.jpg Follow the nose, it always knows! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3793-XL.jpg The hotel was renovated in an old convent, and the bar is built over a crypt. Spooky! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3797-L.jpg The party (and mojitos) continue at Nick and Clara's balcony across the street http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3812-L.jpg Horse-drawn nights in the historic centre http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3846-L.jpg Neda celebrates her first birthday on the road It's still a novelty celebrating anniversaries on the road, different than a trip or a vacation. First Christmas, first birthday, etc., not being tied to any place, knowing that the next anniversary the next year will be somewhere entirely different. We're loving the nomadic experience, I think mainly because there's so many new things to see and we're going at a pretty slow pace to appreciate everything. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3853-L.jpg Late night coffee in the plaza http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_0977-XL.jpg Post-hangover lunch in Getsamani After 3 days of non-stop drinking to celebrate Neda's birthday, we crawled out of our hostel to the heat haze of the Cartegena afternoon. We enjoyed pizza and spaghetti in a great Italian restaurant around the corner called I Balconi, watching the lazy weekend unfold below in the streets of our neighbourhood. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3874-XL.jpg This outfit looks more Cuban than Colombian http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3904-L.jpg Early morning bicycle ride http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_3941-XL.jpg Cuban women selling fruits on the street http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3969-L.jpg More balconies! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4010-L.jpg Walkng the streets of Cartagena After a few days in Cartagena, the Stahlratte Motorcycle Club decided to split ways. One group was heading to the north to the beaches of Santa Marta, while another was headed south to Medellin. We rode with them out of the city, 8 adventure bikes zipping in and out of Colombian traffic, the Caribbean Sea blowing warm air on our already hot and humid group ride. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0281-L.jpg Typical group ride shots - gas stations and food stops http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_3818-L.jpg Charter member of the Stahlratte Motorcycle Club Neda and I had different plans, so we accompanied them as far as Baranquilla, a couple of hours on the shore north of Cartagena. After a final breakfast together, we said goodbye and went our different ways. Apparently, the first item on our plan was to get rained on on the interior roads back to Cartagena. It was so hot that we didn't bother putting any rainsuits on, and our ride was made a bit more bearable as our mesh gear dried and evaporated our wet clothes underneath on the road back to the city. |
Wow! What a fantastic journey!
Beautiful photos and... I can't stop reading:thumbup1::thumbup1: I'm going to take a cold bear before to continue reading your wonderful adventure: "Skal" bier Skotfoss |
Updated from: Apr 14 2013: Jamaican me crazy!
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map90-L.jpg We didn't stay in South America for very long. After only 9 days in Cartagena, we loaded the bikes back on the Stahlratte and set sail into the heart of the Caribbean sea. First stop: Jamaica, mon! [video]http://youtu.be/-oT-SRvtkDo[/video] Flabbergasted by the Stahlratte loading technique http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0420-L.jpg We have a new captain on-board. I asked for a confidence-inspiring look and this was all she could manage... We're doing this leg of the trip by windpower only, which lends a very different flavour to our journey. Whereas the Panama to Colombia run was a regular commuter run; with the sails up and the engine off, it now felt much more romantic, harkening back to an older method of transportation. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0324-XL.jpg The human effort in sailing a boat is mainly pulling on a bunch of ropes http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0385-L.jpg This is my contribution to the sailing efforts, Alisa serenades the boat with Spanish songs Coming out of Cartegna we hit some pretty rough waters and most of the passengers got sea-sick. In the middle of the night, I frantically scrambled over a sleeping Neda and barely made it to the deck of the ship where I donated my rented dinner to the Caribbean marine life. I spent the early hours of the dark morning with Ludwig on the top deck, trying to focus on any kind of fixed horizon as the boat pitched violently side to side. Salt water spray cleaned the contents of my stomach off my face as huge waves monstered the bow of the Stahlratte, drenching our (thankfully) covered motorcycles. Ludwig seemed entirely at home striking a Captain Morgan pose looking out into the black waters of the moonless night. In contrast, I felt like I had 7 limbs wrapped around various railings and holds, desperate to stop myself from falling off this rollercoaster into a watery bed. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0436-L.jpg The fishing lines behind the boat snag a King Mackerel http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0358-XL.jpg Soon to be filets, ceviche and soup! The second day of our 4-day voyage was a lot calmer, but it was still difficult to do anything but stare out at the horizon. Which meant that all of the hours of TV shows and movies and books that I downloaded went unviewed. Still, we found plenty to pass the time away, playing music, watching dolphins jump playfully in the waters beside us and racing in front of the ship. We caught some fish for dinner and at night, we watched from the balcony as the boat stirred up bio-luminescent plankton in its wake. It all felt very Life-Of-Pi, minus the tiger and the carnivorous island... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0481-L.jpg Sails unfurled and looking ahead to Jamaica http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0490-L.jpg The nets at the bow of the ship were a great place to watch dolphins racing in front of us http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0519-L.jpg Like church on Sunday, everyone on the ship congregates on the deck of the ship every evening to watch the sun set. Four days is a long time to spend cooped up on a ship with 21 other people, especially for a bunch of landlubbers like us. As we arrived into Port Antonio, on the north shore of Jamaica, the passengers were itching to get off the boat, pacing the deck and climbing the ropes to get a better of view of where we'd be after we cleared customs. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0534-L.jpg Samantha climbing the crows nest. 10M above the deck of the boat http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0541-L.jpg Crows nest view of the Errol Flynn marina (yes, *THAT* Errol Flynn) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0554-L.jpg This is how we treat immigration officers on the pirate ship Stahlratte... At the marina, the immigration police came on board and upon seeing us swinging out on the ropes and diving into the harbour, one of them takes off his shoes, gun and cellphone and decides to swing out into the waters himself! BEST IMMIGRATION EXPERIENCE EVER!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0985-L.jpg Our favorite beach, Boston Beach We're spending 6 days in Jamaica, but unfortunately our bikes can't come with us. There is an engine size restriction for importing motorcycles, and besides, Port Antonio isn't equipped to handle vehicle importations. Most of the passengers rent vehicles or take buses to tour the island. I used to work in Jamaica, so I've already seen most of it. Neda and I spend most of our time in Jamaica touring the different beaches on the north shore near Port Antonio. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4113-L.jpg Yes, that sign does read, "Do Not Jump"... I've never been a tourist in Jamaica, and was very surprised when we were assailed by roaming vendors everywhere offering to sell us trinkets and vices (some legal, some not). So that got a bit tiresome, but the scenery and the food made up for it. Ever since leaving Toronto, I've been craving a few comfort dishes, among them - curried goat, meat patties and jerk pork. So every evening, we would go down to the patty shop or the food stands and gorge on Jamaican food! So good!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4139-L.jpg The shape of the bay at Boston Beach makes for a great place to surf in the late afternoons http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4157-L.jpg Swinging out in the sands http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4201-XL.jpg This little guy knows how to pass the time away http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4206-XL.jpg Ballerina of Boston Beach http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN2234-XL.jpg Neda goes snorkeling in her hunt to find sea-souvenirs http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4240-L.jpg This horse was taking a bath in the waters when another guy jumped on for a ride http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4269-L.jpg Spent some time watching a crab crawl in and out of its home, waiting for us to leave him alone http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4271-L.jpg Sprinting across the shallow waves at sunset http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_0997-L.jpg Our Swedish friends Erik and Ebba back on the Stahlratte with us Jamaica was a great refreshing stop, but after 6 days of lying on the beach, we were ready for the main course of our Carribean cruise. However before getting back on board, we gorged on last minute Internet access, letting all our friends and family know that we would be off the grid for a while, because where we're headed, they've banned the Internet. No connectivity for a month! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/91.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map91-L.jpg We booked the Stahlratte for our Darien Gap crossing around Christmas-time last year after hearing how quickly spots get filled up. However at that time, we also found out that the ship continued on after South America to travel around the Caribbean Sea up to Cuba. So we thought "How cool would it be to ride our motorcycles around CastroLand?". The answer, of course, is "VERY COOL!". So here we are back on the Stahlratte, sailing less than a day away from Jamaica, ready to deposit our bikes on the shores of Cuba. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4295-L.jpg One of the first things that greeted us in Cuba We are headed towards Santiago de Cuba, a port town on the southeast corner of the island. We arrived just after sunrise and Ludwig awakened all the passengers so that we could see land approaching. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4318-L.jpg Cuban cruise ship :) Shanties lining the shore. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0572-L.jpg Bikes are unwrapped and anxiously waiting to be off-loaded We spent most of the morning waiting for the immigration process to unfold, already a familiar procedure with the Cartagena and Jamaica landings. A couple of new wrinkles - a couple of very cute drug-sniffing dogs were brought on board and they went through the entire ship looking for banned substances: cocaine, marijuana, explosives and the highly illegal GPS receivers! Yes, we were told we had to leave our Garmins on board. I think the reasoning is that because the GPS satellites are a US military tool, it could be used to subvert national security? Oh well, Google Maps already did that... GPS technology was not the only controlled technology, we were told that access to the Internet was also tightly enforced. I guess the Internet did come out of a US DARPA project. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0604-L.jpg Finally, our bikes get to come out and play Six motorcycles were let loose onto the pier and we were given instructions on how to make our bikes legal for Cuban roads. First stop: Aduana, to get our import papers sorted out. As we rode from the marina to the city, every single person turned to look at this parade of foreign motorcycles trundling through their town. We felt like celebrities! We arrived at Aduana late in the afternoon, and although we still had about an hour before the offices closed, we were told to come back in the morning, since they wouldn't have time to process our bikes before closing. Hmrmpf...:( http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0620-L.jpg Everywhere the bikes went, people instantly appeared While parking our motorcycles in town to look for a currency exchange, our motorcycles gathered quite a crowd. As soon as they discovered that Neda spoke Spanish, they peppered her with questions: "What brand is it?", "Where was it made?", "How many cylinders?", "How fast does it go?", "How much does it cost?". Little did we know that this would be the script for most of our conversations with Cubans over the next little while. Even I could memorize the answers in Spanish and answer all their questions perfectly. In the next few days, we were told that bikes like ours never make it onto the island and to see one was like seeing a "lion roaming the streets" or seeing a "spacecraft parked in the town square". Wow! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4338-XL.jpg Streets of Santiago http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4348-L.jpg Dominoes is the national sport of Cuba and is taken very seriously. Raised voices are often heard at a game, for both participants and audience http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4349-L.jpg Streetside game of chess, which although popular, does not elicit as much shouting though... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4356-XL.jpg Hanging out in the Tivoli neighbourhood of Santiago http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4361-XL.jpg Swing Batta Batta Swing! Impromptu game at the Escalinata The Escalinata (steps) at Calle Padre Pico are a well-known feature in Santiago. The street ends abruptly in a set of stairs and then continues in the same direction at the top. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4368-XL.jpg Streets of Santiago at night http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4380-L.jpg A group of bikers come over and check out our rides. One of them asks Neda to rev her engine for them, they are very impressed that she's riding a bike 3 times larger than the usual motorcycle on the island. We have done a lot of research about Cuba prior to getting here, because 1) limited access to Internet while on the island, so we won't be able to get information on the fly and 2) very little else to do when you're sailing on a boat for 5 days. We learned a lot about the history of the Revolution and the tough economic times Cubans faced because of their isolation from the Western world. Private enterprise was strictly forbidden until very recently when home owners were allowed to rent out their rooms to tourists offering a cheaper alternative to hotels. These are called Casa Particulares, and we made extensive use of them while on the island. You get to see how Cubans live up close, and if you opt for the meal plan, you also get to sample some delicious home-cooked Cuban dishes! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4387-L.jpg The next morning at Aduana again. Crowd gathers around our bikes and Neda, the fluent Spanish-speaker fields the usual questions I'm so proud of Neda, she's picked up Spanish very quickly, and of all the travelers we've met on the road, she has really benefited the most by being able to interact with the locals to get a good understanding of what life is like in these countries. And as a resource to help with directions, border crossings, etc, she is the MVP in any traveling group. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4396-L.jpg Finally, we clear customs and to prove it, we get a nifty sticker to put on our bikes It takes most of the morning to get our bikes imported. I'm very surprised at all the manual input, and I think it's kind of cool that all the forms are on very old, brittle paper, stained coffee-coloured by decades of communist decay. The dot-matrix printers have long since run out of cartridges, so carbon paper is used instead of ink ribbons! So interesting! Our next step: Transito. We need to get our bikes licensed to ride Cuban roads. It's in another part of town, so we all ride over and even though we get there at lunchtime, we are told that there isn't enough time to process all our bikes and to come back the first thing next morning. Seriously? Much later, in another part of the country, we are told that the Oriental Region of Cuba (where Santiago is located) is well-known for their lackadaisical attitude. Neda remarks that all of this is very reminiscent of the socialist system that she grew up in back in Croatia. Even though this is inconvenient for us, it does give us more time to explore Santiago a bit more, and I still think all of this antiquated bureaucracy is kind of cool! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4421-L.jpg "teehee that tickles" - Washing the salt off from our sail across the Caribbean http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4427-L.jpg Again, a crowd gathers and we field the normal questions. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4460-L.jpg Viva Fidel! Along with state-sponsored propaganda, there are home-grown efforts as well http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4461-XL.jpg There's a lot of hanging out in doorways in the neighbourhoods around Cuba http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4468-L.jpg They teach the values of socialism at a very early age http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4482-L.jpg I was drawn to this Cuban bookstore and how the propaganda here radiated such a different vibe from its Western counterparts One thing I was really looking forward to experiencing in Cuba was the state-organized propaganda, from hand-painted signs, hand-painted pictures of Fidel and Che, stickers promoting the upcoming Primero de Mayo (May 1st) celebrations, hand-painted dates of important events in the Revolution. It seemed to me that paint and human labour was a lot cheaper than manufacturing signs... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4497-L.jpg Enjoying a Cuban cigar in the park. Although we don't smoke cigars, we really have to try one to see what all the fuss is about... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4506-L.jpg These were waiting for us at the Transito office the next morning. Neda is ecstatic! Throughout our trip on the island, many people would ask if the bikes were ours or if they were rented. We later found out that these red license plates mean the vehicle has been imported. All of the newer cars on the road have red license plates, and almost all of them have been imported by rental car companies, which is why everyone thought our bikes were rented. The first letter also denotes where the vehicle was registered, so people knew we started off in Santiago. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4509-L.jpg We met Norje, a really nice guy who worked in the inspections lot at Transito I wasn't expecting a Cuban license plate, so when we got one, Neda and I were both admiring them with pride. We're officially Cuban vehicles and we're ready to roam around the country! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/92.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map92-L.jpg After a week and a half off the bikes, it was good to taste the open air again! The temperature here is about 31C every single day, with very little variation. We're headed to the north-east section of the island, circumnavigating the shore on the main highway. The roads are in pretty good shape, better than we thought they would be and we pass vast stretches of scenic farmland along the way. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4520-L.jpg Almost no commercial advertising, but tons of state propaganda. This is a memorial to Colonel Garzon who fought in 3 Cuban wars in the late 1800s. Heads continue to turn as we ride through the smaller towns. When we stop to ask for directions, a small crowd quickly gathers to examine our motorcycles, and when entering one town, a traffic cop stops us, shakes my hand and starts a conversation about our bikes and our trip. Very nice guy. And very curious... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4523-L.jpg We found out later that picture-taking is prohibited here... oops... We don't get very far from Santiago on our first day, we're too busy lollygagging. Over the communicators, we yell at each other, "Cuba baby!" So excited to be riding here. Our first stop is the city of Guantanamo. Yep, right next to Guantanamo Bay and the infamous US Naval Base. Cuba is such a mess of contradictions, this is just the first: a US naval base in the same country that it has no diplomatic relations with (to put it mildly) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4527-L.jpg Walking the tourist core in Guantanamo http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4547-L.jpg Castro has put a huge emphasis on education and today, Cuba has one of the highest literacy rates in the world http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4564-XL.jpg Packing flour probably from Canada Although the US has a trade embargo with Cuba, there are lots of other countries that still trade with the island: wheat from Canada, butter from New Zealand, rice from Vietnam, gasoline from Venezuela. However, life was pretty hard in Cuba after the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early 90s and the loss of 80% of its imports, however the Cuba that we're riding through today is in a state of transformation. Some for the good and some for the bad. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4570-XL.jpg Selling sunflowers on the street http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4568-XL.jpg Cuban flag flies across the street from our Casa Particular Just in the last few years, Castro's brother, Raul, seems to have relaxed the rules regarding business ownership. Tourism is now the largest form of revenue for the island and the government has allowed select citizens to open their private homes and restaurants to tourists. Not everyone owns a casa or restaurant, so to get in on the action, a network of Jineteros (hustlers) now roam the streets looking to lure tourists into the businesses they represent for commission. And the rates are astounding: For a $20 stay in a casa, a Jinetero will get $5 - for every night the tourist stays. For a $10 meal, again a $5 commission gets paid to the hustler. This is big business considering the average wage for a Cuban is $25 a month from the government! For us the Jineteros have been the most annoying aspect of Cuban society. Most approach us and initiate what looks to be a friendly conversation, "Where are you from?". How can you not turn down a conversation with a local when they appear to be interested? But it quickly turns to, "I know a good restaurant/place to stay, follow me" and all sorts of trickery to get you to the place they represent. Grrrr... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4573-L.jpg Neda and Che hanging out on the road to Baracoa Guantanamo is not the worst place for Jineteros, and we quite liked the quiet streets as a change from the large city of Santiago. The next day we rode further east towards the town of Baracoa, passing through the beautiful coastline and stopping a few times to admire the beaches and the Atlantic Ocean. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4596-L.jpg We found an old abandoned beach-side resort at Yateritas Outside of the major towns and tourist centres, things seem to be in a state of disrepair. Some of the hotel chains that were built in the 70s still reflect the Soviet influences, and when the money from USSR ran out, so did the upkeep and maintenance. New investments in tourist properties have been made from countries like Canada, but the government still maintains tight control, allowing foreign development but taking control of the property after the first 5 years of operation. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4675-L.jpg Huge waves splashing against the rocks on the north shore http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4688-L.jpg Scenic break to admire the Atlantic Ocean http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4695-L.jpg Neda stops to ask Fidel and Che for directions My favorite part of Cuba is seeing all the slogans of La Revolucion and the pictures of Fidel and Che - and everything hand-painted as well! Che seems to be more loved than Fidel, as often the fight for idealism is much more romantic than the actual implementation of it. I didn't know much about Che Guevara besides the fact that he was some big capitalist pig who licensed his image to tons of T-shirt and poster manufacturers... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4699-L.jpg The road from the coast runs up and down some amazing mountains and we pass lush rainforests on the way to Baracoa http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0642-L.jpg Twisties! We stop for a snack Along the way, there are lots of roadside vendors selling fruits and my favorite snack in Cuba: Cucurucho. It's a mixture of coconut, honey and a bit of dried tropical fruits all wrapped up in a cone of palm leaves. Our trip in Cuba so far has been positive, but things were not going to stay that way for long. |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/93.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map93-L.jpg The Jinetero problem came to a head in Baracoa. We were really looking forward to spending a couple of days in the tropical sea-side town, doing some hiking in the area and walking through the city streets. The casa owner in Santiago called ahead and booked us a room with someone she knew in Baracoa, presumably for a commission, we just had to meet them at the main gas station in town. However, swarms of Jineteros on bicycles crowded around us when we arrived, and when we asked about the casa and showed them the business card, one of them led us to a house in a neighbourhood near the Malecon. We kept asking if this was the right place, as the address didn't match, and the young hustler reassured us it was. The guilty look on the casa owner's face confirmed that we were misled (literally), but rather than search the town again for the right place, we decided to stay because we were just too tired to argue. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4716-L.jpg Hotel El Castillo is set high atop a hill and offers great views of Baracoa http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4719-L.jpg You can see the casa where we're staying (Casa El Kidnapo) from here. See the orange building in the centre? It's the small white building next to it. The neighbourhood we're staying in seems quite poor, but the people living there were very friendly and again, very curious about the motorcycles. It was a nice location, one street away from the Malecon, and strolling up and down it offered a nice change from the very touristy centro. Also, very little Jineteros on the boardwalk. We watched as a group of kids played a game of pelota (baseball) with a wooden stick for a bat and a plastic bottle cap for a ball. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4764-L.jpg Kids hanging out on the Malecon http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4750-L.jpg Watching the waves of the Atlantic Ocean splash on the rocks from the Malecon http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4784-L.jpg Changui originated a hundred years ago in the sugar cane fields, combining Spanish guitar and African rhythms In the evenings, Changui music, native to Baracoa could be heard streaming from the bars. Entrance was free, but the mojitos were expensive and every three songs a hat was passed around to collect money for the musicians. The locals, not content to just listen, took to the floor and impressed all the turistos with their complex salsa footwork. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4857-L.jpg These kids were taking part in an art competition at the local arts centre http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4863-XL.jpg Mohawks are a popular hairstyle for young Cubans http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4807-L.jpg We watched the local Baracoa baseball team practicing Rumour has it that Fidel was a pretty good baseball player and national sports was encouraged by the government at all levels that Cuba quickly rose to world prominence at each Olympics after La Revolucion. I don't know anything about baseball, but even I've heard of Jose Canseco. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4852-XL.jpg They let Neda try out for the team. This is her specialty pitch, the CocoNuckleBall http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4816-XL.jpg Young komrade at the beach We decided to do some hiking on the hills south of the city, we were told that there were fabulous views of the city and shoreline at the summit. Normally, you would cross a narrow, rickety bridge across the Rio Miel to gain access, but it had been washed out, so we had to be ferried across for $1 each. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0645-XL.jpg Our ferryman had the bluest eyes ever! Wish I got a picture of it. From here, we were starting to get hit with unexpected fees, as we were charged $5 each for entrance to the park. The government official told us that it would grant entry to everything. $10 is a bit steep for a hike (not including the $4 for the round-trip ferry), but since we had already come all this way, we decided to pay. We opted not to hire a guide since the trails were well-marked, but one followed us anyway, hoping to guilt us into paying him at the end of the hike. This was getting very annoying as all we wanted to do was spend some time alone and unmolested. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4828-XL.jpg Hike up the trail to get a better view Upon reaching the summit, we discovered that the mirador (viewpoint) was on private property and that we were required to dish out an additional $5 each to enter. This was unacceptable, since the official at the entrance told us everything was included. Our little day-hike was going to cost us $24! We refused to pay, and started angrily down the hill. The woman that was on the property chased after us and told us that we didn't have to pay, so we relented. The viewpoint was beautiful, but I couldn't shrug off the growing feeling that everywhere we went on the island, we were going to be nickeled and dimed, and that most of the locals just viewed us and all the other tourists as walking wallets. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4833-L.jpg View from the mirador, Baracoa in the distance and the broken bridge down below. You can see the boat we took. As we left, the owner, who we had not met before demanded payment for access to the viewpoint. An argument ensued as we told him that the woman (his wife, we found out) had said that we didn't have to pay. Thankfully, the guide that followed us vouched for that, and we left without further incident. There were other things we wanted to see in the park, a beach and an archeological museum inside some caves, but after questioning the guide, we found out that these cost money as well - $3 each for beach access and $3 each for the museum, for a total cost of $36 for the day. I understand that there are tourists that come to Cuba that don't think twice about dropping $36 for an unguided hike. It's not a lot of money when you have jobs to go back to for the remaining 11.5 months out of the year when you're not on vacation. This is not the case for us, as we are traveling on a budget and to be misled like we had been, added terrible insult to injury. I understand the huge disparity between how much tourists have and make compared to the locals, but I get a sense that most Cubans don't see any gradations between budget travelers and rich vacationers. We left the park without seeing anything else, feeling more assailed by everyone who approached us demanding money from us. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4836-L.jpg Close-up of the ferry This was not the end of it. We had originally been told that the person "guarding" our bikes at our casa wanted $2 per night. When we checked out to leave Baracoa, he demanded an additional $2, because we had left the motorcycles there during the day as well. Another argument ensued over what "$2 a night" meant. To most people, it is assumed that this covers a 24-hour period. But apparently here, you have to draw up a legal document for every transaction stating down to the littlest detail what exactly is covered and what all the hidden costs will be. For a country that has repressed capitalism and free enterprise for the last 50 years, the rules opening up services to tourists seem to represent a tightly-wound spring finally exploding. Baracoa taught us some frustrating lessons as to how we would be treated in Cuba. It's obvious we have to approach our travels on the island very differently than what we're used to. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4866-L.jpg Curious kids in the neighbourhood, everyone wanted in on the picture! I don't like ending things on a negative note, so I wanted to mention how nicely we were treated as we stayed in the barrio as people got to know us as we strolled through the neighbourhood streets every night. Familiar faces would smile and wave to us and say hi - we would talk about where we came from and about our trip, as well as get to know a little bit about their lives. One evening, we hung out on the neighbour's porch listening to his kid practice the violin. His dad seemed very proud of him and glad that the mini-audience spurred his son to give a concerto-level performance. Our standing ovation led to a shy grin on his face. :) This feels like the real Cuba, one that we wanted to experience. I think all we have to do is step off the well-trodden tourist path. |
Update from Apr 28 2013: Holed up in Holguin
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map94-L.jpg We left Baracoa feeling a bit disillusioned. Everywhere we went, we felt like we were being hustled. We are also feeling a bit isolated, as Internet access is expensive ($0.10 per minute) and is relegated to a few terminals in special telecom buildings, so no Skype. Add to this, we're suffering from multiple equipment failures: our waterproof point-and-shoot camera turned out to be not so waterproof, and we can't find a suitable replacement on the island, so no riding shots. Also, the keyboards on both of our laptops don't function anymore. No typing, no blogging... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4873-L.jpg Nickel is one of Cuba's most profitable and environmentally damaging exports Our first half of our route for the day took us through a very rough gravel road towards Moa. Having to focus on the broken road was a nice distraction from everything else happening and we enjoyed the simple pleasure of riding in beautiful sunny weather. As we approached Moa, the soil turned a beautiful shade of red, as if we were traveling along the surface of Mars. Unfortunately, all of this was marred (pun intended) by the sight of nickel factories, belching thick acrid smoke into the air, and the ground water turned oily-coloured from the all the polluted runoff. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4874-L.jpg What could have been such a beautiful landscape is spoiled by pollution On our march westwards, we stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant just outside of a tiny village. There seemed to be quite a lot of people there, loud Spanish music playing and we quickly learned that this was a prelude to the Primero de Mayo (International Worker's Day) celebrations that the whole country is ramping up for. Although it seemed to be a private party for the villagers, we were graciously invited in. At first, the crowd viewed us as a bit of an oddity and they kept their distance, eyeing us from afar - I don't think a lot of tourists make it out here. But by the time we polished off a delicious lunch of fried chicken and rice, the folks around us got a bit more comfortable having us around and starting offering us beer and engaging us in conversation. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../collage-L.jpg Party-time! This is where we ran into a bit of trouble with the law. I asked permission to take some pictures, and there was something about the camera that loosened people up almost immediately. Suddenly everybody wanted to be in front of and behind the camera. With every picture taken, the crowd seemed to get louder and rowdier (not dangerous mob rowdy, just party rowdy). One of the two policemen who were there keeping a watch pulled me aside and said something in Spanish, which to my ears sounded like, "You're under arrest". But that was just me inferring what most policemen say to me, because Neda the Espanolophone told me he said, "You don't have to leave, but we have to ask you to stop taking pictures, the people are getting a bit too excited". It was a bit of a damper, but we got a taste of how disciplined the society is and what the boundaries were to cutting loose in a party - which was not very loose at all. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4892-L.jpg These kids wanted a picture on our bikes, so we obliged. So cute!!! We actually left the party feeling like we got to know the real Cuba, meeting real people and not hustlers and partying (briefly) with them. They wanted nothing but to talk and be merry with us, and to be in our pictures, it felt pretty good. However, we knew this feeling wouldn't last as we neared our destination - the city of Holguin. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4898-L.jpg A local Holguin brewery that produced Cuba's most popular beer, Cristal, put on a fashion show at the hotel. We made a decision leaving Baracoa to bypass all the Jineteros and their casas, and stay in a hotel instead. Through our research, we found the Islazul chain of hotels, which were funded mostly in part by Soviet money in the 70s (and styled that way as well). They were moderately priced accommodations, about $30/night, merely $6 more than a casa+parking and none of the negotiating hassle. It was a no-brainer considering there was a free swimming pool and breakfast was included! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4899-XL.jpg Definitely not a Chevy big block engine under the hood We saw plenty of vintage American cars from the 50s rumbling through the streets of Cuba, a remnant of the last time the US had any economic contact with the island. Although their bodies may be well-preserved, their guts have long since rotted and with a dearth of parts from Detroit, most of these cars have had heart transplants instead, running on diesel engines lifted from Eastern Bloc cars like Ladas. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5003-L.jpg Cuban national colours at dinner Holguin is known as the city of parks, the fourth-largest city, and not really a stop for most tourists, which is what we liked. We took a stroll through one of the parks with a children's playground and all the mechanical rides, like the merry-go-round and ferris wheel were all non-operational - victim of budget cuts since Soviet funding dried up in the 90s. Kids still clambered along the swings and the slides, and I laughed a bit at the decorations - space ships, rockets and... missiles. Cuban Missiles. Not sure if they were built before or after October 1963... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4908-L.jpg Most of the old American automobiles were earning their expensive keep as taxis for tourists http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4917-L.jpg We heard music coming from an abandoned building, and when we peered inside, we saw these dancers and musicians rehearsing for a show later on in the week. They gave us a personal invitation to their concert! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4959-L.jpg 465 steps up La Loma de la Cruz Just outside the city in the north is a large hill where you can experience a panoramic view of Holguin. There's a road that winds up the La Loma de la Cruz in the back, but they also built a large stairway for pedestrians. The first week of every May, there's a huge religious ceremony which involved devotees climbing up the 465 steps to the top. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4974-XL.jpg Neda surveys the city below http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_4977-XL.jpg A shrine at the summit of the hill http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_4993-L.jpg Back in town, more old autos and sunflowers The beaches of Guardalavaca, which are about 45 minutes away from Holguin, are where most of the tourists end up going. We made a day-trip out of it, visiting some ancient burial grounds just outside the town (not very interesting) and then heading to the beach for some fun in the sun. Expensive resorts line the shore, and as we parked the bikes, we met a custodian who told us that most of the newer resorts were constructed by Canadian companies. After building a property, a foreign investor had 5 years to turn a profit, after that time the property would be handed over to the Cuban government. Interesting! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5008-L.jpg Family-time at the beach http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5035-L.jpg This was a big advertisement for parasailing. This guy would do amazing tricks up and down the shore and then park his board near tourists and tell them that he could teach them how to do it if they rented the equipment from him! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5048-L.jpg On the way back from the beach, Neda picks up some fruits from a road-side vendor http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5059-XL.jpg A demonstration of Santerian relgious ceremony One evening, we headed to the town square to see the concert that the musicians and dancers had invited us to. They were actually 1 of 3 acts, the first was a demonstration of Santeria, which is a Cuban religion, mixing African, Haitian voodoo, Catholic and Native American influences. Devotees dress all in white, not all swallow fire though... Throughout Cuba, we have seen many people dressed all in white, like the Santerians, but we found out that some do so just for the fashion, not because they are religious. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...987554_n-L.jpg Our friends from the warehouse, all decked out in their traditional costumes! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5080-XL.jpg Flamenco dancers, the last act of the night |
G'day guy's great report as usual.
Life has been busy so have not caught up with your travels for a bit,very much enjoyed your update ,your reports mirror the "two moto kiwi's"experience of being walking cash machines to the locals ,I'm glad you also had positive experiences ,great photo's as always.Noel:D
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/95.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map95-L.jpg We spent a few days travelling inland through Central Cuba, thankful that we were shying away from the popular tourist destinations and the hustlers that swim in those waters. We were pretty happy with being anonymous in the fairly priced Islazul hotels, so we ended up searching for them in the interior of the island. Our journey through the interior revealed a lot about the history of La Revolucion, the players and the events that have happened since. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5191-L.jpg More state-sponsored propaganda on the Carretera Centrale (main road) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5203-L.jpg Very cute lizards watch us eat dinner http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5228-L.jpg The town of Moron, our stopover for a couple of nights We chose to stay awhile in the town of Moron, which is not that touristy, but is used as a base for budget travellers who don't want to pay the exorbitant resort rates on the beaches of Cayo Coco, less than an hour to the north. Yep, that sounds like us! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5218-L.jpg Fidel the freedom fighter, in the jungles of Cuba http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5208-L.jpg The Cuban 5 Everywhere in our travels we saw these 5 names, with slogans like "Free the Five!" and "They will return!". It's only later that we found out these five were Cuban spies that were sent to the US. In the 90s, they were discovered and convicted of spying against America, although Cuba maintains that they were only there to spy on anti-Cuban organizations launching terrorists attacks on Cuban soil from their base in Miami. Here they're hailed as heroes who gave up their liberty to defend their country. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5248-XL.jpg Seamstresses in Moron http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5251-XL.jpg Pastel colours http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5258-L.jpg Singing competition. Neda said that these girls were dressed in the same outfits that she wore when she was a kid in Croatia. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5268-L.jpg These students were all taking part in a music competition http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5286-L.jpg Most of the buildings in Moron had these Roman columns http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5290-L.jpg Local shoe repair guy - open air shop! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5309-L.jpg "Here we have to throw rocks without looking forward" In 1983, construction began on a 27km causeway between Cuba to the island of Cayo Coco, opening up land access to some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. From the mainland, you could not even see the island. Fidel stood on the spot where the causeway was to be constructed and motivated the workers: "Here is where we have to throw stones without looking forward". http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5317-L.jpg Riding to our beach day in Cayo CoCo We didn't really do any research as to where to go once we hit Cayo Coco, and when we ran into a couple from France driving the same direction, they told us that they were heading to one of the best beaches on the island: Playa Pilar. That sounded good to us. Little did we know that Playa Pilar was on the western-most tip of Cayo Guillermo, the adjoining island to Cayo Coco and a one-way trip from Moron was 100 kms! We had left on half a tank and there were no gas stations along the way - Thankfully we had our spare tanks... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_53511-L.jpg Playa Pilar: White sand as fine as baking powder, and clear turquoise waters as far as the eye can see The next day we rode only for a couple of hours westwards to Santa Clara. It's an important city in Cuban history because this is basically where La Revolucion against the Batista dictatorship was won in 1958. Fidel sent his most-trusted Lieutenant, Ernesto "Che" Guevara to capture the city, and after his death a few years later, a mausoleum was built just outside of Santa Clara to house his remains and celebrate his life. This was the main reason we stopped in the city. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5382-L.jpg Taking in some music in Santa Clara http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5395-XL.jpg 22-foot high bronze Che on top of the mausoleum I didn't know much about Che Guevara before coming to Cuba, and it was very interesting seeing how the government portrayed this hero of Cuban history. In the museum next to the mausoleum, we learned about the young Argentine doctor, who came from a privileged family, gave up everything and fought in the jungles of Cuba to free the oppressed workers of the country and the corruption of the Batista dictatorship. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5402-XL.jpg Neda reads the epitaph and translates for me It was only later when we were able to read non-Cuban propaganda, that we learned of the war atrocities that Che had committed. The trip to Santa Clara was a fascinating lesson in one-sided history and education. It made me think that although in the western world, we have access to all sorts of viewpoints and editorials on history and world events, we most often accept a singular reporting that the mainstream media feeds us without bothering to dig deeper. Despite Cuba's stance on silencing all opposing viewpoints (they have one of the world's worst records for jailing journalists), there seems to be a hunger for freedom of press. We heard that blogs and ezines on USB sticks are passed around from people to people on buses, in cafes and wherever Cubans mingle. We take for granted what we have until we do not have it anymore. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5411-L.jpg Comrade patrols the mausoleum http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0693-L.jpg Leaving Santa Clara: "Where did everyone go?!?" We kept our bikes overnight in a garage that only stored 2 wheeled vehicles. Since our bikes were as big as cars, we took up the space of 5 or 6 of their motorcycles! The garage was entirely full the evening before, but they were all gone by the time we left in the late morning! Next stop: Havana! Very excited! |
What a fabulous adventure, it's raining here in S E England, however, your photos and text have brought a ray of sunshine to my day.
Best wishes for your future travels. Tom :palm: |
Love the images - so vibrant and full of colour, Thanks for the reports
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:funmeteryes:
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Updated from May 04 2013: Havana Rough Time...
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map96-L.jpg From Santa Clara, we make amazing time on the only highway in the country. Originally conceived to stretch the entire length of the island, the Autopista is symbolic of the half-realized dream that Cuba has become. After Soviet funding dried up in the 90s, the completed parts of the highway only connect the central part of Cuba to just west of Havana. Traffic is sparse on the road, and we share the ride with a spattering of classic cars, buses and lots of horse-drawn buggies. Looking at a map, we are just a scant 150 kms away from Key West - our meandering path has taken us to the closest we've been to Toronto in months! Ha! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5513-L.jpg Beautifully maintained classic cars harken back to a time when Havana was at the peak of its affluence and influence Reaching the historic centre of old Havana requires riding through kms of urban sprawl, and we peel through the outer layers of dirty factories and railroad tracks, through to the shambles of the outlying neighbourhoods and finally to a seemingly incongruous opulent capital city. From the 1930s up until the Revolution in 1958, Havana was THE centre of tourism in the Caribbean, with casinos, nightclubs and hotels supporting a nightlife that drew celebrities and socialites to the city, out-rivaling Las Vegas. All the revenue and activity attracted gangsters and government corruption. During La Revolucion, Fidel chased out these elements, nationalizing all the businesses, and made enemies of the United States which had their interests and assets in the country seized. The embargo ensued, the Soviet Union collapsed, and the money stopped coming in. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5448-L.jpg Stone sculptures line the main tourist walkway in Havana http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5468-L.jpg Restoration work being done on the Capitol Building As the rest of the country fell into decay, there were only funds enough eft to restore 10% of the city, leaving a stark contrast between the magnificence of the historic centre and the crumbling ruins of the surrounding neighbourhoods. Just a few steps from the main tourist areas revealed the impoverished state of the people and their living conditions. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5509-XL.jpg Backstreets of the old city http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5483-L.jpg Impromptu game of football in the streets of Havana http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5444-L.jpg There is no shortage of vintage automobiles in the old city These old American cars are just one of the examples of the contradictions that we saw in Cuban culture. While the imperialist United States has been demonized by the Cuban government, these classic Fords and Chevies have been declared a National Heritage and are a much heralded symbol of the communist island nation. Same goes for the national sport of the country: Baseball. You can't get any more apple pie than that. The US is not immune to this contradiction as well - ever since the trade and travel embargo, Americans have been trying to sneak onto Cuban beaches and resorts for years now and the Cuban cigar has obtained mythical status in the States. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5579-XL.jpg Our casa overlooks the shores of Havana We had heard that Jinetero problem was the worst in Havana, and we were prepared once again to check into a hotel, but we quickly found the prices way out of our reach. Thankfully we ran into a fellow Canadian on the streets who showed us a nice casa particular that he had stayed at before, right on the very scenic Malecon. His local Cuban friends taught us how to negotiate discounts: if you find a casa or restaurant without the help of a Jinetero, you don't have to pay the $5 commission. Useful information! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5586-L.jpg We get a scenic view of the Malecon from our balcony window We stayed in Havana for four days, taking plenty of time just to relax and hang out in our casa. Everytime we stepped out to find food or shop for groceries, we mentally put on our armor and steeled ourselves for the onslaught of the hustlers' spiel: "Where are you from?" and "Don't you like Cuban people?!?". I was a bit dismayed to see how adept we were at ignoring people on the street. It went against our nature of being open and friendly with everyone we meet on the road. Cuba is wearing us thin. I can tell that I've lost my humour and we're spending more time sequestered away in our room than out exploring. I don't think we're normally this sensitive to being hustled, but we've been on the road for almost a year now and travel fatigue is setting in. We really need to hunker down somewhere for a month or two, take a break from the constant motion and regroup. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5427-L.jpg Tall waves crash over the wall of the Malecon, leaving slick patches of seaweed on the road http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5577-L.jpg Every night, city crews clean the seaweed from the streets http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5458-L.jpg Skyscrapers of modern Havana lurk in the background of the old city There's a lot of competition for tourist dollars in Havana, old Cuban ladies sit in the town square with cigars hanging out of their mouths, charging tourists to snap their pictures. They're capitalizing on the now-famous picture of the Cuban lady smoking a stogie that adorns many travel brochures and tourist guides. And these ladies' cigars remain unlit the entire day! I don't shell out for this staged photo-op. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5496-L.jpg Beautiful architecture in the old city http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5507-XL.jpg Old historical centre http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5572-L.jpg With a shortage of parts from the outside world, Cubans have developed some creative fabrication skills http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5600-L.jpg We take a ride in one of the vintage automobiles through the street (not streets) of Chinatown http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5621-L.jpg Chinese food was a welcome change from Latin American fare Asian tourists are pretty rare in Cuba and like our motorcycles, I was the source of a lot of curiousity about my background. For most Cubans, Asians fall into the category of either Chinese, Japanese or Korean - no other races exist. A typical conversation would go something like this: Them: Chino? Me: Soy de Canada. Them: Chino? Me: Mi familia es de Malasia. Them: Chino? Me: *sigh* Si. Chino. Them: AH! CHINO! LOL... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5582-L.jpg Sunset on the skyline of Havana |
Updated from May 10 2013: Sometimes a cigar is...
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map97-L.jpg Where are there no Jineteros? Let's go there. Vinales is in small farming community in the eastern province of Pinar Del Rio and we're told that there's very little hustling there. So we jump on our bikes, head to the Autopista and make a beeline to the heart of tobacco country. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5629-L.jpg Along the way we run into our good buddy, Che http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5651-L.jpg Parking at our casa is a tight fit even with the bags off http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_5643-XL.jpg This wasn't a tight fit - the helmet could have done an exorcist swivel on his head! Vinales is quite a sleepy community, in contrast to the busy city of Pinar Del Rio to the south. Lots of people hang out on their porches here in the evening, we felt very comfortable in this bucolic setting, taking strolls up and down the main street every night, unmolested by hustlers. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5668-L.jpg Walking around the neighbourhood in Vinales Whenever we travel, I find myself becoming enamoured with the local vehicles. When we were in Baja California, I dreamed of driving around in an old rust-red VW Beetle w/ a dune-buggy kit: exposed chrome engine in the back, big knobby tires, jacked up suspension and loud fog-lights. In Cuba, I think it would the coolest to drive around in a mean black and chrome '56 Chevy Belair! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5699-L.jpg The triangular-roofed house is a drying shed for tobacco leaves We booked a tour of one of the tobacco farms one morning and the owner, Juan took us around his fields, showing us how tobacco is farmed and harvested. Due to the soil and the microclimate here, the Vinales Valley is one of the best places to grow tobacco and makes the finest cigars in Cuba. The area is surrounded by limestone mountains which have eroded over time, giving them their steep slopes with flat tops. We've seen much artwork depicting these mountains, which are synonymous with the valley. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5807-L.jpg Thousands of tobacco leaves hanging in the drying house like bats in a cave http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5713-L.jpg Neda learns everything there is to know about tobacco farming from Juan, then translates it (and dumbs it down) for me Cuba has a low-input agricultural industry, choosing to use manual labour and ox-driven ploughs instead of costlier gasoline-powered farming equipment - necessary because of their isolation from the outside world. We've seen examples of this all over the country, and we've also seen some artwork that is critical of Fidel's policies for energy-efficiency while ignoring more important issues. We saw a painting of a huge pressure-cooker with a small starving child leaning up against it and later found out that in the 90s, Fidel had given every household these energy-efficient appliances to reduce the usage of inefficient stoves. However, the population had no rice to cook with! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5740-L.jpg And then Juan Valdez shows up and asks if we want to try the richest coffee in the world? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5758-L.jpg Soil here is a rich red colour and is perfect for growing the finest tobacco for cigars http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5800-L.jpg Tobacco leaves ready to be made into cigars Juan passed us over to another farmer (his name was Juan as well!) who had a drying house set up with leaves soaked in a rum, lime, honey and mint - the exact same ingredients that you use to make a mojito. This Juan explained to us the process in how to select leaves for the different types of cigars - the darker leaves are more stronger and are used to make the Montecristos, while the lighter leaves are used to make the milder Romeo y Juliet cigars. Also the tobacco is concentrated in the spines of the leaves. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5845-L.jpg Rolling a fresh cigar for us We watched Juan roll a fresh cigar from different types of leaves, sealed it with some honey and offered it to us. We've never smoked a cigar in our lives, so Juan found it quite funny when I coughed up a lung after deeply inhaling some of the thick cigar smoke. So apparently you have to make like Clinton and not inhale, just puff. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5916-L.jpg Juan is busting a gut laughing at my attempts to puff on a cigar Neda and just shared one cigar but after a few minutes of trying to perfect my Schwartzenneger Puff, I felt a bit lightheaded and had to take a break. Juan laughed at me a bit more. Meanwhile, Neda was going gangbusters on the rest of the cigar and was already making plans to buy a whole box back in town. Jeez... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5955-L.jpg Neda has mastered the art of the puff |
Hi guys. What a brilliant journey. I look forward to following your trail. The pics are really good as well. If ever you make it to Windhoek, Namibia please drop in and see us. Enjoy regards Tony:thumbup1:
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Updated from May 16 2013: Last days in Cuba
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map98-L.jpg After almost a month on the island, our time in Cuba was coming to an end. From Vinales, we doubled back on the main Autopista past Havana towards Playa Giron on the south coast. There were some nice beaches that were a lot cheaper than the resorts at Varadero and Cayo Coco, but we were really here to see the Bahia de Cochinos - The Bay of Pigs. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5976-L.jpg Bikes take a break We rode through the swamplands of Zapata, the largest wetlands in the world and home to crocodiles, lilypads and marshes. There, we found an all-inclusive resort (first one of this trip) right on the beaches of Playa Giron, and immediately gorged ourselves sick on several rounds of complimentary cocktails that were more sugar than alcohol. The resorts was filled with locals and backpackers, and after we left the bikes parked outside our cabin, we were relatively unmolested and enjoyed sunsets and mojitos at the rustic, 2-star budget resort. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1028-L.jpg Poolside at Playa Giron http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1027-L.jpg The infamous Bay of Pigs, a lot more peaceful than it was in 1961! Just outside the resort is the Bay of Pigs museum, which housed military vehicles from the period of the invasion as well as a photographic history of the ill-fated attempt of US-backed Cuban exiles to wrest control away from Fidel Castro after La Revolucion. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_5980-L.jpg Outside the Bay of Pigs museum The failed Bay of Pigs invasion was important for a number of reasons. Successfully resisting the US-backed attack made Castro a folk hero to communist nations all over the world. It's also rumoured amongst conspiracy theorists that Kennedy's assassination was linked to his wavering support of the military operation, pulling critical air-support at the last minute and dooming the invasion to failure while costing lives on the ground. Fingers point to angry high-level US military officials orchestrating the enigmatic assassination. It was very interesting walking through the exhibits of the museum and seeing the invasion from Cuba's point of view: the deification of Castro's military expertise and the bumbling incompetence of the "insolent Yankee invaders". To see history retold from two different sides really gave perspective into how our beliefs and attitudes are so easily influenced and shaped by textbooks, museums and propaganda. At the end of the tour, even I wanted to shout out to world, "Viva La Revolucion!" http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6003-L.jpg Musicians practice in Cienfuegos After a couple of days at Playa Giron, we took a short two hour ride to Cienfuegos, the port town where we would meet up with the Stahlratte again to take us back to the mainland. A month in Cuba was more time than we needed, and the lack of Internet access made us feel very isolated from our friends and family that we normally kept in touch with via Skype and social networking. Now we were on the opposite side of the dreaded "schedule" - trying to find ways to pass the time and dodging the hustlers at every street corner, while waiting for the ship to take us off this prison island! Honestly, we did feel a bit trapped, not able to leave when we wanted to, and I understood now the plight of many on the island, not having the resources to leave the country. Never did we look so forward to throwing up our lunches overboard! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6021-L.jpg "In every neighbourhood: Revolution!" Over 50 years have passed since La Revolucion, and the politics of the country is still defined by it, using the resistance as both a solidarity cry and a means to control the population. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6025-L.jpg Canadians are the primary visitors to Cuba, and our flag is ceremoniously decorated all over the place Most of the Canadian tourists are from Quebec, as French and Spanish are close enough to get by. Many of them spend much of their time and social security cheques in Cuba. We saw lots of older Canadian men in the company of young Cuban JineterAs (female hustlers), exchanging their companionship for gifts, meals in tourist restaurants and accommodations in resorts and hotels. In Cuba, Canadians have a bad reputation for being sex predators, targeting child prostitutes. Very sad. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6103-L.jpg "What kind of bikes? How many ccs? How much? How fast?" Cienfuegos means "100 Questions" en espanol... The buildings and culture in Cienfuegos are supposed to have a very French flavour to it - residents from Louisiana and Haiti immigrated to this part of the island at the turn of the century to become rich sugar barons. Not knowing anything about French architecture, I just took a few pictures and said, "Oui, oui!" to the French Canadian tourists milling around the area. And tried to keep small children away from them as well... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6101-L.jpg Main plaza in Cienfuegos http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6068-XL.jpg YuTong tour bus bought from fellow comrades in China http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6095-XL.jpg Who let these dogs out?!? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6109-XL.jpg Cobblestone streets of Trinidad We arrived a few days before the Stahlratte was scheduled to leave, so we had some time to explore the area. The main attraction in this region is the town of Trinidad, about an hour away. We rode along the road hugging the south shore, not doing a very good job dodging the tiny crabs that were sunning themselves on the hot asphalt. The air was pungent with smushed crab from all the vehicles going back and forth, which made me a bit hungry. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6112-L.jpg Trindad was just meh. This is my meh face. Trinidad is a tourist trap. It's supposed to be a well-preserved slice of Spanish colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. In reality, it's a bunch of restaurants and souvenir shops with tons of foreign tourists that invade the town in long Chinese luxury tour buses from Cienfuegos. The buildings were nice-looking though... I dunno. I think we're just getting Cuba'd out at this point. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6143-L.jpg Riding through the cobblestone streets of Trinidad http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6145-XL.jpg Neda picks up some fresh fruit on the ride back from Trinidad http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6153-L.jpg We got our hair cut at the local hairdresser. Our final souvenir of our time in Cuba In retrospect Cuba was both fascinating and frustrating. It was definitely the most different place, politically, that I've visited, and the whole communist brain-washing, police-state, inform-on-your-neighbour, control-the-news-and-Internet thing was something I loved to see in person. Neda lived through it, so I don't think it was that interesting to her. We learned a lot more about the pivotal role Cuba played in the history of world and its status as a pawn between the superpowers, and got to experience this education from their point of view. We visited Miami years ago, and Cuba gave us new insight into the Cuban-American community there - something we were embarrassingly ignorant of. Having spent almost a month on the island (more time than we needed), I'm not sure if we'd ever go back again. I don't feel like we travelled through the country as complete outsiders and I do find myself deeply interested in anything Cuban that pops up in the news, now that we can actually read the news again. Next up: Escape from Cuba! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/99.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/map99-L.jpg We were in such a rush to leave the country that we left our boots in Cuba. Somewhere in the haste of packing on our last day, we rode to the marina in Cienfuegos (just a short ride from our casa) in our hiking shoes and didn't realize until much later that we had left our riding boots behind. A very aggravating and probably costly oversight! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0718-L.jpg Watching the bikes get loaded onto the Stahlratte for the journey back to the mainland While we've been motoring across Cuba for the last month or so, the Stahlratte has been lazily sailing from the east side of the island to eventually pick us up here. From hereon, it's a 4-day journey with its sails unfurled to Isla Mujeres, a small island just off the coast of Cancun, Mexico. Yes, Mexico! We're headed back to our favorite country on this trip! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6160-L.jpg Before leaving Cuba, Neda makes friends with a drug-sniffing cocker spaniel The journey by sea is uneventful. If you call being green in the face for the first 48 hours uneventful. Thankfully, I didn't throw up on this leg of the sailing, something Neda can't boast about! HA HA! :) But in the last couple of months, after spending a total of 15 days on the open waters sailing from Panama -> Colombia -> Jamaica -> Cuba -> Mexico, I've decided that being out at sea is a very unnatural act for me. Previously, Neda and I discussed shipping our motorcycles by container across the Atlantic and spending half a month with the crew on the ship. We thought it would be a very romantic way to travel across the ocean. Now, I'm not too sure that would be a very enjoyable option... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6208-L.jpg Watching dolphins swim alongside the Stahlratte Despite the seasickness, our time on the Stahlratte is always relaxing and the journey to Mexico was no different. Neda did some reading on the deck, I'd be strumming on a guitar somewhere, we were eating lots of great food and all the passengers on the ship traded stories about their time in Cuba. It always amazes me how different peoples experiences are, despite us all having pretty much the same itinerary. Things that fascinated us, annoyed others and vice versa. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6323-L.jpg Watching storms in the distance. The closeup is of lightning hitting the water. So cool seeing that! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6381-XL.jpg If I did this, I'd be cleaning upchuck off my Kindle... Four days later, the skyline of Cancun greeted us with such a change from the decaying buildings of Cuba. It was like returning to civilization again! We spent quite a bit of time scrambling around the ship looking for our boots before realizing we had left them behind. This made us very late for the ferry from Isla Mujeres to Cancun, so there was a last-minute mad dash to make it back to the mainland. Seems like our travels are a series of Hurry-Up-And-Waits (and then Hurry-Up again)... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0726-L.jpg Leaving the dock at Isla Mujeres, Mexico. Sans boots... :( http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6394-XL.jpg *phew* made it onto the ferry. Last on the boat! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1045-L.jpg Pirates? In a scene straight out of an action movie, a couple of crew members from the Stahlratte (you can see it in the distance) fly towards our ferry in their dinghy. It seems they forgot to give us some travel documents for Mexico and had to do a daring sea-to-sea exchange to get the documents to us. LOL! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0007-L.jpg Happily tooling around Mexico Cancun was glorious! Mexico is awesome! We had to spend the first couple of days getting all of our import papers in order, TVIP, etc. All very familiar procedures. Everyone here is friendly and helpful and not after our money. Everything is familiar again, from the OXOs (convenience stores), Chedrauis (grocery stores) to the Pemexs (gas stations). We know how much everything should cost and where to go to get stuff. When we walk into a store, there is so much selection and variety, in stark contrast to the single brands the government of Cuba allows in the stores. Being in Mexico felt like being able to breathe again! Figuratively, of course... since there are no air pollution laws here... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0012-L.jpg One of the things we replaced was our Point-And-Shoot camera. Here it is in action. We took some time to stock up on supplies and replace a few things that we broke or lost in our time in the Caribbean. I couldn't find the old waterproof Nikon camera that we drowned in Jamaica (waterproof, go figure...), so I bought a Fuji FinePix XP150. Ironically, we didn't take one picture of Cancun, despite being there for 3 days. We visited the local BMW dealership trying to find a replacement for my All-Round Boots, which I loved, but damn my dainty, elven feet, they didn't have my size in stock... :( I did see the new R1200GS Liquid-Cooled version, and I liked what I saw. It's wonderfully ugly, just like mine! I want one! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0025-L.jpg Riding through Chiapas, Mexico When we first booked our Cuba detour, the plan was to return to Central America and tour through it again unrushed, seeing how we had to scramble to meet the Stahlratte the first time. Unfortunately, right now there was a bit of a time-table to leave Mexico, as our Central America visa was nearing expiration and if we didn't re-enter Guatemala before the end of the week, the expired 90-day visa meant that we could not re-enter any of the CA4 (Guatemala, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Honduras) countries for another 90 days. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0034-L.jpg Just outside of Palenque, Chiapas It felt good to be in Trek-Mode again. Unfortunately we were riding in our hiking shoes, which made us feel very exposed. We really have to get proper riding boots before we attempt any gnarlier terrain. Our destination is Guatemala, to the very spot where we left off before our mad dash to meet the Stahlratte. Our route took us through the same places we travelled initially, we rode the same roads (shortest route) and stayed in the same places, eating in the same restaurants we had visited the first time through. It's very time-consuming finding restaurants and hotels, and frequenting the same places saved a lot of time and headaches. And stomach-aches as well... :) Felt redundant taking pictures of the same places we had visited. But I did manage to try out the new camera en route. I'm not that happy with it. I like my old Nikon better. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0038-L.jpg The automatic light sensor on the Fuji is not very intuitive and takes some getting used to to get the best contrast. Most of the riding pictures turned out too dark to use. While taking a break at a Pemex, I was approached by one of the gasoline tanker drivers who was delivering petrol to the station. He seemed curious about our motorcycles and started asking me questions. I had flashbacks of Cuba and initially viewed him with suspicion. What did he really want? Then he flipped out his cell phone and started thumbing through it, showing me pictures of his own Suzuki sportbike he had at home. We then had a great conversation about sport vs touring bikes and he was curious about how the BMW bikes handled. But it struck me how scarred I was from our time in Cuba and how it's so difficult relating to others when there's little socio-economic common ground. When I look back at all the places we've bookmarked as potential places to live, like La Paz in the Baja Peninsula, I realize that they're all very middle-class cities where the residents were less concerned about putting food on the table and spent their time pursuing more self-actualized pursuits like music, dance and the arts. And motorcycling for pleasure travel... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1057-L.jpg Waiting for Neda to do her thing at the Mexico/Guatemla border http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0078-L.jpg Dodging chicken buses in the hills of Guatemala http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0059-L.jpg Weaving through the Tuk Tuks on the rainy roads of Guatemala Our primary adversary on this trip has been the weather. First, outrunning the bitter Arctic winter as it chased us from Alaska all the way to the Mexican border, and now we are riding straight into the infamous rainy season in Central America. We encountered a few washed out roads and landslides. I know how badly our bikes do with all the weight of our luggage up high and running street-tires, and I'm a bit worried about how we'll manage. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0082-L.jpg Slip, slidin' away |
Well I can't comment on the comparison between the new and old cameras but I'm glad you've got one, are taking photo's and allowing us to see places I dream about!
Its funny with new gadgets - I get attached to the old ones - they're comfortable,friendly,easy and have character. Then this new interloper comes in and its a learning curve, a bother, another thing to do but then over time they become the best friend! ( well I hope they do!). Love your reports - Thanks spending all the time and hassle of doing them. |
Wow, one of the best Ride Reports i have ever read !! I have read from the beginning to the end over the last few days (while trying to work) and the reports are fantastic and the photos even better so keep up the great work and thank you for sharing such an incredible trip.
Thanks Steve |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/100.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map100-L.jpg We re-entered Guatemala through the Mexican state of Chiapas, and followed the Pan American highway to Quetzeltenango (Xela), where we had taken Spanish lessons just three months ago. It had rained off and on ever since crossing the border, but as we rolled into town, the skies opened up and we were forced to navigate the slick narrow cobblestone streets of historic Xela, trying to find suitable shelter for the night. After knocking on a couple of doors, we booked into a hostel that was incredibly cheap and not entirely rundown to wait out the storm till the next morning. It felt kind of nice being in a familiar town, but we were eager to see something new. After crossing the border, all of our schedules and time-tables fell by the way-side and it felt very good being able to dawdle again. I often look at the route we've taken around the Americas and it looks like the path of a drunken sailor - lots of loops, meanderings and detours... which is exactly what we were intending when we first set out! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6643-L.jpg Dodging tourists in the historic town of Antigua As we were now in the central highlands of Guatemala, even summer temperatures can dip into the low teens overnight, and this coupled with the rain made for some cold temperatures. Because we were without our waterproof riding boots, for the next morning's ride I wrapped plastic bags over my socked feet and then wore my hiking shoes over this. And as everybody knows, the more prepared you are for wet weather, the drier the ride it will be. It was only a couple of hours riding eastwards, but I felt very dorkey having those white plastic bag sockies peek over the tops of my shoes... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0127-L.jpg Cobblestone streets and painted buildings Antigua used to be the capital of Guatemala before earthquakes decimated most of the city in late 1700s. It's a beautiful city that's managed to preserve a lot of the Spanish colonial architecture, and there is a high concentration of ex-pats that have made this place their home. We've been feeling burnt out from travel for a couple of months now, and now that we don't have anything scheduled ahead of us, we've decided to settle down in this quaint town for a little bit of time to recharge our batteries, and also to do some exploring. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6400-L.jpg Our first B&B in Antigua was home to cats! Because I was allergic, I had to use my zoom lens for this shot! We wanted to find an apartment or residence for a few weeks, but didn't want to rush into anything so we booked into a B&B and scoured the city for more permanent accommodations. It only took us a couple of days to find an apartment right in the heart of the city. Short-term rentals are very easy to find in Antigua as there are a lot of tourists that visit and vacation in this scenic town. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6406-L.jpg Arch of Santa Catalina - Antigua's most famous architectural landmark http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0747-L.jpg Antigua is surrounded by three large volcanoes - one of which is currently active! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6672-L.jpg We found a place! This is our driveway. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6678-L.jpg Courtyard parking - we shared it with a KTM from California, but never met the rider! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6428-L.jpg Feels so good to have a kitchen and fridge again! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2238-L.jpg World-famous delicious NedaBurgers! It is so amazing having a home-base to dump all our stuff in and just relax without having to worry about foraging for food and shelter. Stocking up the fridge means not having to grocery shop everyday, and with a hot stove, spices and cookware, we're able to make meals that were not possible while we were on the road. Being nomadic is a great lifestyle for us, but we still need some kind of sedentary life to balance the intensity of all the new things we're seeing and experiencing. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6517-L.jpg Indigenous women selling their wares are a familiar site http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6525-L.jpg The ruins of the El Carmen church are right across the street from our apartment. Tourists flock to the little market that springs to life in front of it every weekend http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6530-XL.jpg Homemade handbags for sale. I had to pull Neda away... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6639-L.jpg Arch of Santa Catalina at night My idea of relaxing is to hibernate like a bear, and I stayed inside the apartment for the first week, not even venturing out once. Neda explored the town and showed me pictures she took of what life was like outside the cave. Her idea of relaxation was to book herself for a month of Spanish lessons. I believe at this point she is actually teaching Spanish, not learning it... After the wi-fi Internet got installed in our apartment, that sealed the deal. I was not leaving this place. Ever. I gorged myself on downloaded TV shows and motorcycle races, and wondered when they kicked out all the non-Spanish riders out of MotoGP...? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2328-L.jpg We relaxed. The bikes relaxed. It was very relaxing for the whole RideDOT.com family... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1130-XL.jpg Arch de Santa Catalina after a rainfall The Central America rainy season is fascinating to experience first-hand. Here in Antigua, it rains every single afternoon like clockwork. Everyone in town wakes up early and gets their errands done and by 2PM, they've scurried themselves indoors somewhere to wait out the afternoon storm. Sometime around 6-7PM, the rains stops and the street life resumes once again until the overnight rains return. I've never seen such regular weather patterns before in my life. Especially coming from Canada where the weather predictions are as unreliable as a KTM motorcycle. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1132-L.jpg Neda tinkers away on her bike http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1140-L.jpg Felt great to catch up with family and friends after being disconnected for a month in Cuba http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2306-L.jpg Antigua is full of wonderful architecture and scenic volcanoes everywhere you look! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2270-L.jpg Volcane de Agua (Water Volcano) just outside our apartment |
Updated from Jun 14 2013: Guatemalan Socialites
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map101-L.jpg First things first: We're celebrating ONE YEAR ON THE ROAD!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6563-L.jpg Nothing says Party-Time like coconut cream cake. Mmmm...! I think the cliched thing to say is that "It's hard to believe we've been traveling for a whole year", but it's not that hard to believe at all. We've seen and experienced so many different things in the last 12 months that it's quite the opposite - it's hard to imagine that it all fit in a year! Especially compared to our lives before, where larger-than-life adventures had to be shoehorned into 2-3 week boxes between the crates of sedentary working existence. Marking the passage of time while outrunning the changing seasons also contributed to this very concrete feeling of time being a rushing wave that we were constantly trying to ride on top of or ahead of. I imagine if we were just traveling through somewhere tropical, our temporal senses may have been more subdued. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1082-L.jpg Ride all day, drink all night Central America is a funnel. While travelers roam across the north or south continents, they may occasionally bump into each other at nexuses like motorcycle meets. But when the land narrows like an hourglass to the thinnest point in Panama, right in the centre, these traveling grains of sand start bumping into each other as they line up single file to hoist their bikes onto sailboats or pack them into cargo containers to fly between one side of the hourglass to the other. We've been keeping in contact with other travelers online and while we were in Antigua, we met up again with Andi and Ellen, the Two Moto Kiwis from New Zealand. We originally met at the Horizons Unlimited meeting in California last October. We also spent the evening with Phil and Jayne, from The Ultimate Ride, the brother and sister motorcycle duo whose goal is to play Ultimate Frisbee everywhere they travel. We ran into them briefly last December in La Paz, Mexico at the ferry docks crossing to the mainland. Also with us that evening was Julio, AKA GauteRider, an Austrian ex-pat who now lives just outside of Antigua and plays host to pretty much all the motorcycle traveling grains of sand that trickle by his front yard. Having dinner with Andi, Ellen, Phil and Jayne was a riot of a time, comparing stories of our adventures. We all started about the same time last year, taking very similar treks from north to south and while other riders race towards the Antarctic for December 2013, we joked that our three teams were in a much different competition against each other: To see who could ride the slowest down to South America! Poor Andi and Ellen have been besieged with breakdowns and injuries and Andi was actually laid up in Antigua mending a broken rib. As for Phil and Jayne, they meander and dawdle worse than we do! All of them accused us of cheating because we had actually made it to South America, but then took a detour through the Caribbean to end up back in CA again! I guess you don't technically lead a slow race if you lap someone...! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6472-L.jpg Ellen and Andi on the right teaching a local restaurant owner how to make sushi http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6432-L.jpg Ellen's sushi is famous amongst motorcycle travelers, she makes it everywhere they stop for hosts and friends While Phil and Jayne didn't stay too long in Antigua, Andi and Ellen are spending a month here so we hung out quite a bit, getting to know them. They are a very friendly and genuine couple, and it was really nice to be able to celebrate and commiserate with folks going through the exact same things we were going through. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6492-XL.jpg Two Moto Canucks! Other than trying to reach certain destinations, we've been without a true quest our entire trip. But Andi gave one to us. Fetch his motorcycle from Guatemala City, where he left it after his crash last month. He couldn't ride it back himself because of his broken ribs. GC is only 45 minutes away, and we needed to get Neda's bike serviced anyway, so with a little help from Julio, we managed to do all this in a single trip. Andi and Ellen have got a beautiful KTM 950SE that they've nicknamed Maya. I make fun of KTMs all the time, but I used to have a KTM dirtbike and Neda and I spent many weekends on the trails around Ontario, roosting each other and crashing into trees. Thankfully the road between GC and Guatemala is very twisty and I got a chance to test out the 950SE. It's comparable to the F800GS, similar weight and power but the SE sounds a heck of a lot nicer and felt more flickable than the Beemer. It's very much a hooligan bike, I liked it a lot! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6493-L.jpg Que es el problema, Maya? No se... I know from personal experience that KTMs are very finicky and maintenance-intensive. So it wasn't too much of a surprise when riding back from GC, Maya's rear brake seized, forcing us to pull over in heavy traffic. We couldn't pull over safely for quite a distance and when we finally stopped, the rear pads were smoking more than Neda did in Cuba. I txted Andi to ask him if this was normal. There was a bit of confusion over the phone. Apparently, New Zealand English and Canadian English are not the same, so I pulled out my Google Translate and sent him a Canuck-to-Kiwi translation: Quote:
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6507-L.jpg Wheeling in Maya into Andi and Ellen's hostel http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6555-L.jpg We had Andi, Ellen, Julio and his wife Luisa over for dinner where Neda cooked up some yummy Croatian dishes. Something happens when you stay a while in one place: you start growing roots. Our social calendar was getting booked up with people that we met, dinner with a Japanese couple, Miwa and Kohei, who opened up a B&B in Antigua, and hanging out with Andi & Ellen and Julio & Luisa, who hosted quite a few get-togethers in their beautiful home just outside of town. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6602-XL.jpg Julio use to be a chef and cooked up some amazing plantain flambe http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6587-L.jpg Luisa is an amazing hostess and quite the avid gardener http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6576-XL.jpg Chilling at Julio & Luisa's |
Updated from Jun 30 2013: Vacation-time!
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map101-L.jpg Living on the road for an extended period brings up a unique set of issues, mainly around the issue of residency and citizenship. By now we've figured out the monthly duties like paying credit card bills, but annual chores like filing taxes and renewing licenses and passports present new challenges as we've got to figure out how to do all this while being out of Canada. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6486-L.jpg Maya and I made a friend outside the Canadian Embassy Neda's passport was due to expire, so when we picked up Andi's bike In Guatemala City, we also paid a visit to the Canadian Embassy to renew her documents. During our time in Antigua, we would regularly travel back and forth on the scenic and twisty road to the capital city. And all of this before 2PM, as we try to complete all our errands before the daily afternoon tropical rain showers. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0110-L.jpg Well traveled (and divided) road between Antigua and Guatemala City! W00T! We've been feeling burnt out from our travels for quite some time now. The month-long Internet-isolation in Cuba exacerbated our weariness and half-way through our stay in Antigua, we decided to take a short vacation from our travels to visit family and friends back in Toronto. Our spur-of-the-moment decision complicates things a bit - Neda's passport is in transit somewhere between Ottawa and Guatemala, so we've got to wait for it to be processed before we can empty our Air Miles piggybank for the flight back. To add to it, our month-long rental came to a close and we are once again semi-nomadic. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1143-L.jpg Breakfast at our temporary B&B accommodations Guatemala belongs to the CA4 (Central America-4) Border Control Agreement, a recent act which allows free travel for visitors between Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and Costa Rica on the same Tourist Permit without having to apply or renew at each border. This added a bit of a complication because we wanted to visit Toronto right near the expiry period of our current permit. Which meant we had to renew our CA4 permit *AND* our vehicle permit before we left Guatemala. Otherwise our expired permit prohibited us from entering the CA-4 zone for 90 days. However Neda's passport still had not arrived from Ottawa... :( Every step required time - 21 days for the passport, 4 days for the tourist permit renewal, and a separate trip for the vehicle permit. And we had already booked our plane tickets! Uh oh. Because of our lack of planning, if everything went according to the official timeline, we would not get our tourist and vehicle permits renewed until after our flight departure date, which meant delaying our plane ticket ($$$), or we could bypass the the 4-day Tourist Permit processing by riding to the Guatemala/Mexico border, getting a Mexican TVIP again (more $$$), spending a night at the border, canceling the TVIP and then re-entering Guatemala. My head hurt thinking about the logistics of that one. So in the meantime, we went for a ride with Julio, Luisa and Andi. No passport or tourist permits required for this! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0141-L.jpg Andi and Maya on the left, Julio and Luisa on the right http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0135-L.jpg Group ride through some of the small towns around Antigua http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0070-L.jpg Morning fog hugging the hills, lush scenery all around us The early morning weather felt a bit cold and iffy, but we decided to chance it and braved the damp roads and ominous clouds overhead. We were still without riding boots, which made me a bit nervous! Julio took us through some very scenic routes through the hills surrounding Antigua, capped off with an brunch with a great view of the volcanoes and rolling hills around the area. We scurried back home to escape the looming afternoon rains. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1103-L.jpg Brunch and a view http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0148-L.jpg Trying to beat the rain home http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0155-L.jpg Twisty mountain roads on the way back Things fell into place for us in the end. Ottawa sent Neda's passport back earlier and we had plenty of time to make another trip to GC to extend our tourist visas and vehicle permits. We were allowed in the CA-4 zone till November! Wow! When we asked Julio for some storage facilities in the area, he graciously offered his own garage for the time we were away. We are constantly blown away by the kindness of people we are meeting along the way. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6700-L.jpg Julio and Luisa took us out for our farewell dinner in Antigua. So nice! And we're off on summer vacation! |
Here's something a bit different.
Neda had taken a whole bunch of videos on her iPhone, and I wanted to learn how to do some video-editing, so here's a trailer for our next couple of blog posts. |
Update from Jul 10 2013: Tourists in Toronto
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map103-L.jpg We are thoroughly enjoying summer in Toronto, catching up with family and friends, lots of eating, laughing, eating, being wide-eyed tourists, fighting traffic and eating. Over meals, we recounted our travels to our friends, and by far, the most common question they asked us was, "What has been the best part of your trip?" Before we answer that, let's start from the beginning. 30-40 foot high geyser of drainage water spews above the Don Valley Parkway We left rainy Guatemala hoping to catch the sunny season in Toronto. However, not a week after we arrived, we found ourselves stuck in the car on the highway during the worst rainstorm the city has ever seen. We normally get 75mm of rain the entire *MONTH* of July, but during a *TWO-HOUR* period, 123mm of rain fell down around us! Cars were stranded on the highway as water levels rose past their windows, city streets were flooded as people waded out of submerged subways and underwater parking garages. Power went out for hours throughout most of the city and as we watched the news from a safe place uptown, suddenly Guatemala didn't seem that wet and gloomy anymore... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2453-L.jpg Our ride for the summer in Toronto - picture by Neda's dad, Vjeko Thankfully the rains only lasted a week and we were able to get some riding done. We have amazing friends! So many of them have been so generous, offering us motorcycles, cars, accommodations and taking us out for dinners and cooking us meals. We're thankful to my parents who let us crash in their basement for a few days while we looked for a place to stay for the summer. Our friends Dave and Dee basically gave us a V-Strom as well as their car while they were away on vacation. Our other friends Jeff and Ed also lent us their cars for the weekend and I can't count the number of two-wheeled offers we got! If you're reading this, thank you all so much!!! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_2419-XL.jpg Big Shitty traffic So what's it like coming back to Toronto after a year on the road? It's like we never left. When my parents picked us up from the airport, we hit a traffic jam on the highway and it was such a familiar feeling, like we had just left a week ago. They say when you've been gone for a long time, everything looks and feels different, you even feel different in your old environment. I don't think we were gone long enough, though. We'll have to work on that... I think the biggest change is how bad traffic has become. Toronto is now the 4th largest city in North America and has the congestion to match. I used to be able to judge exactly how long it would take me to get from any point in the city to another at any time of the day, arriving within 2-3 minutes of my appointment. Now I'm either 15 minutes late, or 30 minutes early - the traffic patterns have changed drastically in the last year. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2414-L.jpg Our condo was so high up, we could see outer space from our window! While I was looking through the pictures Neda had taken on the contact sheet, this one looked like the earth from outer space. It's actually the sunset over the skyline taken from our condo. The shutter button on iPhone is on the right, but since she's a lefty all her pictures are displayed upside-down! So I warped the edges of the skyline a bit and got this cool spacey-looking shot. We're on the 48th-floor of a condominium right downtown overlooking the western part of the city. Having never lived in the heart of the city before, it was great walking everywhere and being tourists in our old hometown. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1178-XL.jpg Neda blames this injury on her being a lefty We got our first serious casualty since the start of the trip. Neda had a major altercation with a can opener and sliced her finger very deeply. She blames the fact that the can opener was made for righties and not southpaws... uh huh... We had to take her to the hospital where they put 6 stitches in to close the wound. Unfortunately, there is a risk of tendon damage, and since it's her clutch hand, she's off motorcycles for the duration of our time in Toronto. A friend commented, "You traveled around the world for a whole year on motorcycles and the only time you injure yourself is back home in the kitchen..." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1167-L.jpg Neda's Davy Jones impression OMG, we really miss the food in Toronto! I think this city is the most cosmopolitan place in terms of food. While I enjoyed the Mexican and Central American cuisine, it's all so homogenous! And after months of rice, beans, tortillas and fried meats, we really craved soft-shell crab rolls, lamb vindaloo, curried goat, all washed down with some ice-cold Hobgoblin ale. We really miss all the varieties of food you can sample in Toronto, and I've got the extra 15 lbs around the midsection to prove it! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6878-L.jpg I competed in a Moto Gymkhana competition http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_6923-L.jpg Gymkhana is an ancient Japanese sport involving motorycles, swords and ninjas. Or in this case they are CBR250s... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7051-L.jpg I didn't do too well. But because this is Canada, everybody is a winner and gets a medal! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1193-L.jpg The Skydome is Toronto's baseball stadium. A few years ago Roger's Communications paid a lot of money to rename the building to, um... the Skydome... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7508-XL.jpg Watched some local artists in action http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7536-L.jpg The intersection of Yonge St and Dundas St is Toronto's mini Times Square http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7533-L.jpg Cruisin' the streets of Toronto is a popular pastime for urban riders http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7555-L.jpg In Toronto, green means go. In Toronto, red also means go... True story. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7674-L.jpg Fishing in Algonquin Park Every weekend in the summer, tens of thousands (or at least it seems like) of Torontonians sit for hours in traffic on a Friday afternoon to engage in an activity called Cottaging, which I don't even believe is a real word. Then they'll sit for hours in traffic on Sunday afternoon to get back to the city. Minus the time spent sleeping, these urbanites will spend more time during the weekend Trafficking than Cottaging. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2645-L.jpg "We made it to Algonquin Park! Time to leave soon..." So anyway... What *HAS* been the best part of our trip so far? Reaching the Arctic Ocean in Alaska may have been the most rewarding achievement of our trip. Utah may have been the most scenic place we have visited. Mexico may have had the friendliest people in our travels. Crossing the Darien Gap by sailboat with our motorcycles may have been the most interesting part of our journey. But both Neda and I agree, the best part of our trip has been "Freedom" - the ability to go anywhere we wanted, staying as long or as short as we desired and not having any destination, plan or schedule to map out or stick to. *THAT* has been the most amazing feeling in the last 12 months! |
Thanks for sharing your adventure..........have you considered attending the HUBB meeting at Mckeller Sept 12th through to the 15th......we wantabees would enjoy hearing your story.....Susan and Grant would be happy to have you as presenters....:D
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So I don't see your names on the presenters list for the Hubb meeting :thumbdown:. If you're still in town will you be attending? |
Unfortunately, we are leaving in a few days to continue our trip. We met so many cool folks at the HU meet in Cambria last fall, it would have been great to attend this month. Have fun!
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/105.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map105-L.jpg We're hosting a couple from Belgium who contacted us through our blog! After traveling through Northern Europe by motorcycles, they're now backpacking through North America starting in Toronto. When they originally e-mailed us back in April, we were just getting ready to enter Cuba and had no plans to to be back in Toronto, so it was quite a coincidence that we were here at the same time. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7070-L.jpg The Belgians take a boat ride We loved hosting Eva and Thomas in Toronto, it gave us the motivation to actually get out and see all the touristy places in Toronto that we wouldn't normally have visited. If it wasn't for them, we probably would have stayed in our apartment the entire summer! The Belgians are vegetarians and nature-lovers - cut from the same cloth as Neda! So I had to hide a packet of beef jerky under my bed for the week... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7072-XL.jpg View of Toronto from Centre Island It was great seeing Toronto from a tourists' pair of eyes. Eva and Thomas told us that the skyline looked very futuristic. I never thought about it, but I guess coming from the Old Continent, everything must look so shiny and new here. The CN Tower and Skydome do look kinda spacey, even though the tower was built 40 years ago! Nowadays, the view of the skyline from the waterfront is being quickly disfigured by a forest of high-rise condominiums which is a real shame. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7192-L.jpg Toronto's Flatiron building http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7233-L.jpg Fake Canadian Geese hanging inside the Eaton Centre While taking the Belgians around town, I realized that I really miss being an expert on something. In the entire year that we've been traveling, we were in Input-Only Mode, taking in sights, sounds and information, not having any prior background and not being able to express any opinions with any depth of knowledge. Now we were entirely in our element. Being around friends, we talked with conviction about all things Toronto: our train-wreck of a mayor, the condofication of the city, real-estate bubbles, bubble tea, the proposed casino and island airport expansion, etc. It felt good to be entrenched in the issues and politics of a place, instead of always merely passing through and scooping up an inch-full of surface knowledge, a snippet of sound-bites. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7237-XL.jpg Eva sports the latest in Toronto baseball fashion apparel One thing I am *NOT* knowledgeable about is baseball, so I had to be quick on my feet, both with the pocket Google and the MSUs (Making Shit Up). The Belgians peppered me with questions up in the nose-bleed seats of the Skydome, all the while we watched the Jays gets murdelized by the Oakland A's. When they go back home and explain baseball to other Belgians, I hope my name doesn't come up when they talk about foul-plays and fly-runs... The Belgians told us that our baseball fans are very tame and well-behaved. They said in European sports, when the home team loses, there is always a chance of a riot! I told them that when our home team(s) loses *ALL THE TIME*, you simply run out of energy... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7241-XL.jpg Bautista is famous Toronto T-shirt designer http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7264-L.jpg Sunset against the open Skydome http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_2540-XL.jpg CN Tower looks like the warp trail of a rocket when lit up! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7345-L.jpg So cliched, but we took the Belgians to Nigara Falls. Maid of the Mist earns its name. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7307-L.jpg I forget how fascinating it is for someone who has never seen the Falls http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7288-L.jpg The Canadian Horseshoe Falls flows 2.2 million liters of water *PER SECOND*! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7314-L.jpg Add this picture to our, Take-Our-Tourist-Friends-To-Niagara-Fall collection... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7457-L.jpg Butterfly Conservatory in Niagara http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1209-L.jpg A case of mistaken identity for Eva's hairclip http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/photo-L.jpg After a long day, Thomas relaxes in our apartment. Great picture taken by Eva! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7185-XL.jpg Toronto's version of Grand Central Station - Union Station We had such an amazing time with Eva and Thomas! We recognized the same joy of travel in their eyes, and there was always lots to talk about between the four of us. They continued their journey to Western Canada by train and we wished them a fond farewell, and I really believe we will be seeing our new-found friends again soon. You can read all about Eva and Thomas' adventures on their blog, Life is a Journey! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_6717-XL.jpg Look and Point - Part 1 of 2 http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_7702-XL.jpg Look and Point - Part 2 of 2 The Canadian National Exhibition is a 3-week long fair held in Toronto and it traditionally marks the end of the summer. It also marks the end of our vacation in the city, and since we lived so close, I met up with some friends to take in the sights. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7846-L.jpg At the Ex, you take your life in your own hands with the dodgy rides and dodgier food Actually, the real reason why I went to the Ex was to try the infamous Cronut: half-croissant, half-donut, with a burger in the middle. There was an incident the week before when the maple-bacon jam topping the Cronut caused over 100 people to contract severe food poisoning. So after hearing that, I *HAD* to try it! But sadly, the Cronut was taken off the menu for good after the incident. :( http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_7886-L.jpg These swings are iconic - they've been in every TV commercial for the Ex for decades! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8023-L.jpg "Carnival, the wheels fly and the colours spin through alcohol..." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0799-L.jpg Betting on a good time Our friends have been such a joy to hang out with this summer. They surrounded us like a warm blanket on a cold winter morning, and it was much more difficult leaving them this time around than it was last year. But there's still so much to see out there so we're suiting up for the next exciting season of RideDOT.com! Stay tuned! :) |
Great ride report! I`ve actually finished reading page 4 and can`t stop reading. The pictures and your writing is awesome. It gives the daily glimpse of Canada (and more) to me. Love this country!
Always keep safe riding! Cheers Joerg |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/106.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map106-L.jpg "Are you sure you want to go back?", I asked Neda. "Yes. Are you sure?", she replied. "Yes. Really sure?", I asked again. The answer was moot because at that moment United Airlines Flight 1502 was readying for a late night landing in Guatemala City. Water streaked past the airplane's window as I looked down at the city lights blinking through the fog and heavy clouds covering the capital city. During the cab ride to Antigua, I experienced a bit of culture shock. All the Spanish I had very slowly built up over our trip had quickly dissolved in the past two months in Toronto. Neda appeared not to have skipped even a beat, conversing with the cab driver as fluently as if she had never left. I sank lower into my seat and watched more light rain collect on my window. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8168-L.jpg Back in Antigua again! We had arranged a stay with Miwa and Kohei, the Japanese couple we met in Antigua before we left. The first day back, the rain poured and poured and we played e-mail tag with Julio, to arrange to pick up our motorcycles from his place. While he was away in Guatemala City, we decided to break out of our listlessness and book a guided hike up to the Volcan de Pacaya, a very active volcano just outside of town. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8209-XL.jpg Pacaya behind us. Sometimes there is lava pouring out the side, but today it was just taking a smoke break From the base of the volcano, it was a strenuous 770m, 2.5 hour uphill hike to the top. Strenuous for me because I was carrying all the excess vacation weight I had gained back in Toronto. Enterprising locals with horses followed the large tour group up the path to the volcano, hoping to sell a ride to the old, weak and tired. From the way they kept eyeing me, I apparently fit all three categories... In my defense, since we didn't have our hiking gear and shoes yet (they were on the bike), I had to do all this in my jeans and motorcycle boots. Yes, we finally got new motorcycles boots while in Toronto. And Neda got new blisters hiking up in her new boots... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8273-L.jpg In the distance, the Fuego volcano near Antigua is having a bit of an eruption Over the course of the next 2.5 hours, the horses were slowly occupied by other more weary hikers and I was forced to finish the climb by myself. The view from the top was amazing, but I felt better about reaching the top without assistance, even if it was by default, not by choice... Also, this is probably the first time we've gone sightseeing around Antigua, despite living in town for a whole month before our summer vacation! I'm hoping our two month vacation will continue to keep us recharged and that we can keep the Travel fatigue at bay by moving a bit slower, although at our current pace, that would have to be reverse gear... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8231-L.jpg Made it to the top. And no horses were involved! Given my poor performance on the hike up to Pacaya, I've made a few resolutions for our trip. My resolution for this week is to eat more healthily and try to lose some weight. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1248-XL.jpg "What's for dinner, Neda?" "A Guatemalan dish called Pepian!" My resolution for next week is to eat more healthily and to try to lose some weight. Pepian is a chicken dish served with a chili sauce similar to Mexican mole but with added squash and sesame seeds. It was delicious! Outside in the streets of Antigua, we saw stalls being set up while performers played indigenous instruments on a stage. All over town, people are practicing playing music and performing with batons and there are fireworks every night. The whole country is preparing for the Guatemalan Independence Day - September 15th. Can't wait to see that! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8281-L.jpg Performer bangs away on tortoise-shell drums Mother Nature also decided to join the celebrations by throwing us a 6.5 magnitude earthquake that evening! I was lying in bed reading my Kindle (World War Z - terrific book!) when suddenly the mattress started to shake like it was made of jello. I immediately knew it was an earthquake, but I was so stupid not to get up and go somewhere safe, namely outside where there wasn't any roof or walls to crush me. The quake lasted 45 seconds and it felt like it was never going to stop. In nearby San Marcos, closer to the epicentre, dozens of people were injured in traffic accidents as they fled their homes. Mental note: don't run out into traffic as I'm trying to escape an earthquake. Seems we are magnets for natural disasters everywhere we go: Hurricanes in Alaska, earthquakes in California, torrential flooding in Toronto. We'll be posting our itinerary for the next little while so everyone can plan where *NOT* to go for their future vacations. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1250-XL.jpg A joyful reunion! The next evening, we dropped by Julio and Luisa's house to pick up our motorcycles. After getting everything packed on the motorcycles and all our gear on, we turned the key and... no lights. No ignition. Our batteries were completely dead. Then it came back to me. Back in June, while storing the bikes away, I asked myself, "Should I disconnect the batteries? Pffft! That's FutureGene's problem". http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/photo-L.jpg FutureGene is pissed at how many screws it takes to get to the F650GS's battery! We had to abandon the bikes again. The next day, we walked to El Gato, a local mechanic who recharged both our batteries. Seemed all the liquid had boiled off and had to be topped up with distilled water. Not good. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1251-L.jpg Not a good picture of El Gato, but he looks like a Guatemalan Charles Bronson. Only he smiles more. So the batteries are charged, installed and the bikes turn over with a bit of an old man's cough. Julio points out that our rear tires have no tread left and are unsuited for Central America's rainy season roads. I had a whole month in June to change them out, but again... FutureGene's problem. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0825-XL.jpg The family is back together! At least we have our bikes back. Despite the long prep time it's going to take before we can set off, I'm actually feeling a lot better than when I first did when we got here. This morning, I did a walkaround about our motorcycles and I was reminded of all the places that they've taken us. I'm looking forward to our travels. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0829-L.jpg "What's for dinner, Neda?" "Homemade mac and cheese!" *sigh* My resolution for next month is to... |
Awesome post. Sad we won't see you at the HUBB meeting but glad to be reading new updates from the road.
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/107.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map107-L.jpg Ok, enough writing, let's do some riding. We are leaving Antigua on a road trip! Leaving behind our tent, sleeping bags and half our clothing behind in the B&B, we are setting off for the Guatemalan highlands. Before the trip, I installed a new rear tire - I'm trying out a Heidenau K60 Scout, which is supposed to be better for dirt/gravel roads. They didn't have Neda's size in stock, so we ordered one from the US and we're going to install it next week when it arrives in the country. In the meantime, she's going to ride around the muddy rainy season on a half-bald tire because she's hardcore that way! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0028-L.jpg Leaving Antigua before sunrise... *yawn* We are awake at 5AM to try to beat both the rush hour towards Guatemala City and also to try to get some riding done before the rains catch up to us in the afternoon. We fail on both counts. We depart in an unusual morning shower, and the 45km commute towards the capital city takes us over 2 hours! And this is even with splitting lanes and taking to the shoulder, while dodging trucks, chicken buses and other motorists. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0059-L.jpg Part of our journey takes us through Coban, where Neda's sleeping bag got stolen off her motorcycle a few months ago. Here she dives into a crowded market, hoping to find the thief that stole her sleeping bag... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0086-L.jpg Neda really liked riding through these tall cornfields http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0102-L.jpg Fire burning at the side of the road in a small village Past Coban, we are treated to beautiful twisty roads through the mountains of the Alta Verapaz department. The rain has let up a bit, but the light fog sometimes darken so we don our rainsuits just in case. And as all motorcyclists know, if you put your rainsuit on early, it will never rain. The warm humid temperature creates a mini-sauna inside our rainsuits and we are as wet inside with perspiration as if it rained anyway - the stench from weeks of built-up sweat on our riding suits is becoming unbearable... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0107-L.jpg http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0112-L.jpg Beautiful views of the valley below and layers of mountains in the distance http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0127-L.jpg The gravelly road to Lanquin We turn off from the blacktop of the main highway towards Lanquin. The road turns into a loose gravel path that leads down into the valley. The views are amazing, but the descent is unnervingly steep. Neda seems to be negotiating just fine with her old rear tire and my bike feels good as well - but I think it has more to do with the excess luggage I jettisoned in Antigua than the new rear tire. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0132-L.jpg Lush green valleys just a steep drop away http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0143-L.jpg Lots of logging in the area, we had to squeeze past some logging trucks. The road to Lanquin is too narrow at most points for two trucks to pass by each other, so either one has to wait or reverse to a wider spot to give each other space to pass. Squeezing past one with the steep drop on the right is very nerve-wracking! After about an hour of gravel, we reach the small town and book a dorm room at El Retiro, a nice camp/hostel by the river. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0862-XL.jpg Neda is lounging around at El Retiro The next morning we book a tour of Semuc Champey, which is the primary reason why tourists come to visit this area. It turned out to be quite a full days worth of sights and activities, visiting different sites around Lanquin. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8335-L.jpg Our guide took us to the head of the river where we inner-tubed down the rapids http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0173-L.jpg Then we all lit candles and hiked into the pitch black darkness of an underwater cave http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0188-L.jpg Guy behind me is checking to see if he has signal underground. Answer: "Nope" This cave totally reminded me of the horror movie "The Descent". Our guide painted all our faces native-style with grease from the cave-walls. The hike becomes quite claustrophobic at times, the walls sometimes narrowing so you have to squeeze yourself through to the next cavern. The water in here comes from a subterranean spring and there are many elevation changes as we climb up to meet the source, battling through mini waterfalls and sometimes swimming through deep pools, trying to keep your candle above the water. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0197-L.jpg Candles were often extinguished by the hike/swim, so we took many stops to relight our candles from the ones that were still lit. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCF0237-XL.jpg There is absolutely no other light besides our candles... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCF0245-XL.jpg Hikers become swimmers, our candles are our most prized possession http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCF0254-L.jpg A cave monster At the end of the cave, we reach the mouth of the underwater spring. It's a powerful waterfall that flows back down and it's a dead-end so we hike/wade/swim with the current back to the entrance of the cave. We spent over an hour in the total darkness and it was such a wonderful caveman-like experience! Grace... is not my middle name... Outside, more water activities awaited us, inner-tubing and swinging out into the river. We were really impressed with how organized everything was. Our tour group was made up of many Israeli tourists and we made fast friends with them, joking around and getting to know them as we hiked to a scenic viewpoint high atop Semuc Champey. Apparently September is when all of Israel goes on vacation and Guatemala seems to be quite a popular destination. Most of the Israelis did not know each other prior to this trip. And every single one of them was on their honeymoon! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8385-L.jpg Semuc Champey is a series of stepped pools of turquoise waters http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8377-L.jpg The Guatemalans boast that this is the "Eighth Wonder of the World”. You can see people swimming in the pools, to give you an idea of the scale. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8381-XL.jpg Waterfalls of all sizes spill water from one step to another http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8401-L.jpg Lizard watches us hike back down to the river http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8407-L.jpg Happy tourists http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8440-L.jpg Swimming in Semuc Champey Semuc Champey means "The water hides beneath the earth" in Mayan. The steps that we are swimming in are actually part of a limestone bridge where the Cahabon river is running underneath us. A little bit of the river makes it above the limestone bridge and that's what forms the turquoise pools and mini waterfalls. The Semuc Champey "bridge" is about 300m long, and our guide takes us swimming the entire length of it, gliding down natural stone slides worn smooth by the running water. At the end of Semuc Champey, a huge waterfall falls off the limestone shelf to meet the Cahabon river underneath it. So glad that we saw this, it's one of the highlights of our time in Guatemala! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1256-XL.jpg Yael, one of our new friends gives us a gift to remember our experience Apart from the wonderful scenery and amazing tour and activities around Semuc Champey, we are really glad to have met our Israeli friends. We spent a couple of days with them, sharing travel stories, and I learned a little bit of their culture and some Hebrew as well, so now I can butcher a brand new language! Such an enriching experience all around! Tomorrow is September 15th, which is the Guatemalan Independence Day. So we say goodbye to our new friends, as we're heading back to Coban to see if we can catch some of the festivities! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/108.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map108-L.jpg We are headed back to the town of Coban to see if we can catch some Independence Day celebrations! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0865-L.jpg Flag features the national bird, a Quetzal, holding a scroll with the date of independence from Spain It's a funny thing trying to time motorcycle travel in the Central American rainy season. Because the rain falls in the early afternoon and overnight, you can't leave too early in the morning or the roads will still be wet. But you can't leave too late or you risk run into developing rain clouds. So we're timing our departure from Lanquin late enough that the dirt roads will be dry from the morning sun, but we'll still have time to arrive in Coban before rains start up again. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0157-L.jpg Gene: "What happened?" Neda: "Dunno. I just found it like this..." http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0166-L.jpg Impromptu Guatemalan group ride! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0167-L.jpg These guys were all going into town to celebrate. Lots of honking and waving from every truck we passed! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8549-L.jpg The old and the new in Coban: Cathedral and a... um, flying saucer... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8533-L.jpg Preparing for the 2248 Winter Olympics Every year, on September 14th - the day before Independence Day - a torch is lit in Antigua, the old capital city of Guatemala. Runners from all over Guatemala light their own torches from this one and begin running back to their home town, passing the torch to other runners who continue until they reach their destination by the 15th. It's a pretty cool Independence Day tradition and I'm glad we caught a glimpse of it! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8471-L.jpg I have a big sign on my photographic equipment that reads, "HamCam"... Drummers dressed in the national colours http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8522-L.jpg Locals checking out the festivities http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8540-L.jpg Women's parade celebrating Independence Day http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8589-L.jpg El Calvario church, popular tourist spot in Coban 130 steps above the city sits El Cavario church, where we caught a great view of Coban from up high. Most of the religious ceremonies in the city are performed here. Legend has it that a Mayan hunter saw two jaguars sleeping in this spot. He didn't kill them, but left them alone and when he returned the next day, he saw a vision of Christ at the same spot. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8606-L.jpg Church staff prepare for the fiesta with an old-fashioned smoke machine http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8577-L.jpg Virgin Mary and child inside El Calvario http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8566-L.jpg These girls were all dressed the same, they were getting ready to carry a parade float down all 130 steps to the city. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8601-XL.jpg Devotion candles lit outside the church http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8608-L.jpg Takin' a break... The Guatemalans know how to carry on having a party. We only lasted a couple of hours walking around town listening to marching bands and watching dancers and seeing religious ceremonies being performed. When we got back to our hotel, the afternoon rains kicked in, but that didn't stop the party - music, cars honking and fireworks carried on until the late hours of the night. Awesome! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/109.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map109-L.jpg From Coban, we are going to be journeying westwards through the mountainous department of Quiche - not named after the food, it's pronounced Kee-Chay after the Mayan dialect Ki'Che' so popular in this region. And there's no quiche in this entry either... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2765-L.jpg No drybag and topcase means less weight on the back of the bike. Mac and Cheese and Huevos con Salsa means more weight in the middle of the bike... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0175-L.jpg Single-lane construction zone, uphill in the dirt, facing an oncoming bus too large to squeeze past... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0176-L.jpg ...So we pull off into the shoulder and my bike is so wide I have to lean it to the right to give the bus 2 inches to pass *gahhh* http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0184-L.jpg Half of the roads we are doing are unpaved, good chance to try out my new Heidenau rear http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0192-L.jpg Neda threads her way through a road carved out of the mountainside http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../DSC_848-L.jpg The Quiche department is dominated by the Sierra de los Cuchamatanes - the largest non-volcanic moutain-range in Central America http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0236-L.jpg Making trax... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0253-L.jpg We are climbing up twisty roads towards Nebaj The paved roads towards Nebaj are heavenly, first-gear switchbacks climbing high into the mountains. However, we are puzzled by two different kinds of logos painted on rocks, mountainsides and everywhere along the side of the road - blue "Todos" and red "Lider". We find out later that it's two political parties and there's either an election coming up or one has just passed. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0261-L.jpg Asking for directions to Acul - Neda trys out her Ki'Che' Speaking of languages, I have a new Spanish teacher - Neda. We do lessons over the communicator while riding. Along with verb conjugation I am also learning how to swear at Chicken Buses en Espanol. In these roads up here in the mountains, it's best not to ride too close to the centre line while apexing, as oncoming cars and buses regularly cross the line. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0270-L.jpg Moo-ving right along... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0271-L.jpg The scenery here becomes very European-alpine-countryside http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8790-L.jpg Pulling into our destination for the next couple of nights http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8723-L.jpg Bungalows in the background - ours is the one in the middle As per Julio's recommendation, we're relaxing in a great little cheese farm outside of Acul called Mil Amores (Spanish for a Thousand Loves). It's such a bucolic setting, very quiet save for the soft ka-tunkle of the bells tied around the cows and goats. A nice place to just kick back, relax and enjoy the surroundings, and the food is fresh from the farm - cheese and beans served during every meal. Did I mention we are both a little bit lactose intolerant? After every meal, our little bungalow rocks with the sounds of two-stroke motorcycles... *BRAAAAP* http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8689-L.jpg I never thought Guatemala could look like this - everything is so lush from the Guatemalan winter rains The region around Nebaj and Acul is like the Guatemalan version of the Alps. In fact, the farm was settled in the 1930s by a family of Italian artisan cheese makers who honed their craft in the Swiss alps, and searched the Americas for a similar place - high altitudes, eternal green grass. Looks like they found it. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8702-L.jpg Wine, and a little fuel for our two-strokes http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8729-L.jpg Afternoon rains give our bikes a bit of a wash http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8733-XL.jpg We are timing our travels well during the rainy season http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8739-L.jpg Warm and dry inside the kitchen with a Kindle, a candle and a hot cup of tea http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8741-L.jpg Outside, the farm's dog guards our motos - his snoring is louder than our two-strokes http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8711-L.jpg Neda contemplating Blue Angels It was such a great relaxing couple of days and we're now ready to hit the road again! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/110.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map110-L.jpg After a restful two days at Mil Amores, we are ready to hit the road once again, heading south through the Guatemalan Highlands, rolling through the smooth pavement switching back up and down the mountains. Along the way we pass small towns and even smaller villages. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0284-L.jpg Pausing in traffic to window shop at the roadside tiendas (stalls) selling food and refreshments http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0286-L.jpg What's the holdup? We tiptoe on the dirt shoulder, past a lineup of stopped chicken buses. Passengers are grabbing their belongings off the buses and abandoning them, walking further ahead. There is lots of confusion at the roadblock, drivers and pedestrians give us conflicting information: "You can't pass, turn back!", "Take this stony road that goes into the jungle to get to the otherside". http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0288-L.jpg When we get past the front, we see the road has fallen away into the valley below. Oops. In the end, we followed another biker as he pushed his way past people on the sidewalk. That turned out to be the correct call and we're back on the road again, leaving the stranded trucks and chicken buses fuming impatiently on the other side! Ah, the pitfalls (literally) of riding through the Guatemalan winter. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0293-L.jpg Passing through colourful, mystical arches My bike is not doing well with the regular gas I am feeding her. Lots of engine pinging in the low revs while climbing up the hills in the past few days, and I have to keep the revs high in order to keep her from complaining too loudly. As we near our destination of Panajachel, I treat her with some premium drink. I glance at the bill and shake my head - she's dining a lot better than I am. Perhaps she goes back on a diet when we reach flatter terrain. Her and I, both! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8898-L.jpg Panajachel, down by Lake Atitlan We checked into the same hostel that we stayed in the first time, the one with the parrot security guard. I had a little conversation with our feathered friend. I've provided some subtitles. Bloody bird speaks more Spanish than I do. FML. It's very interesting walking around Pana almost 6 months since the last time we visited. We are really getting to see this place and the country in two different seasons. The streets are bare of tourists and the late morning sky already darkens with imminent rain clouds every day, obscuring the tops of the volcanoes surrounding Lake Atitlan. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8803-L.jpg We take a day-trip by water-taxi to San Marcos, on the other side of the lake Part of the reason why we are staying a couple of days in Panajachel is because this was the last place we were before we had to abandon our leisurely pace to rush through Central America. We missed out on all the little Mayan towns and villages dotting the shores of Lake Atitlan, some of which are only accessible by water because of the volcanoes surrounding the lake. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8821-L.jpg Some really swanky digs built along the shores and slopes of the mountains surrounding Lake Atitlan http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8827-XL.jpg Big business along the shores of the lake There is a public ferry that shuttles travelers from town to town on the lake, it only costs Q25 (about $3). However, private boats offer faster, more direct service for a higher fee. We watched as they filled their seats with their sales pitches to impatient tourists. One well-dressed Frenchman dished out Q200 ($25). He sat in the boat and waited angrily as the captain kept lowering his price to fill all the seats on the boat. Other tourists bargained down to Q100 ($13). We waited till the very last minute before the public ferry was to arrive and scored seats for Q50 ($6) each! The French guy was livid! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8829-L.jpg Walking around "downtown" San Marcos San Marcos is a very small Mayan village where yoga retreats and alternative medicine centres have inexplicably sprung up. It felt weird walking the narrow dirt paths between closely packed buildings offering gourmet health food and boutique hotels, squeezing past western women in Lululemon yoga gear, sweaty from a morning session of Downward Dirty Dogs and Cameltoe Poses. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8846-L.jpg Sanity returned as we left the Dharma Initiative complex Outside the Fruity Yoga centre, we spent more time strolling through the real San Marcos. Children had just broke from school and were running and playing in the streets. We got quite a workout walking up and down the very steep hills of the town, peeking into buildings to get a glimpse of what life is like here. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8860-L.jpg The higher we got, the better view we got of the lake http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8884-L.jpg Public ferry back to Panajachel We thought we did so well negotiating with the private boat. We found out that the actual public ferry didn't take much longer and it was exactly the same kind of boat, but this one had a roof. It docked at another site just outside of Panajachel and cost Q20, not Q25! This was what the locals took! Those private boats were making a killing! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_2795-XL.jpg Tight, but scenic exit from our hostel parking spot No flowers were hurt leaving Panajachel This was a great week-long road trip touring around the Guatemalan mountains, some entertaining dual-sport roads and lots of tight, twisty asphalt. There are a couple of ways to get back to Antigua, the main PanAmerican highway, and shorter way that looked pretty good on the GPS - lots of switchbacks and more mountainous scenery. We asked a local on the way out which was better. He said the "shortcut" was less time, but was less "secure" (seguridad). Less secure, like in bandits? We didn't quite understand. But seeing how it was the middle of the day, we thought we'd chance it. So off we went... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0300-L.jpg This is what "less secure" means. We rode though broken roads, some washed completely away. Neda is testing to see where the lowest point in the river was to cross. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8906-L.jpg Aiming the bike, ready to point and shoot Married couples often develop an understanding of the things they say to each other, and the things they really mean. Here is an example: Neda: You go first. Translation: (You go first so if you fall, I know where not to go.) Gene: Yes, dear. Translation: (Yes, dear.) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8914-L.jpg Guatemalan Bike Wash A local helps direct Neda through the water crossing |
Its taken a few days, but I've finally managed to read all of your posts from the beginning.
Your thread is one of only two that I've read which has made me REALLY want to get out there and explore countries that I've never really considered before. The only problem that I have with your posts is that you seem to favour Lorenzo, when he's clearly an eejit... I look forward to catching up on your sporadic posts as you meander around at your snail pace :mchappy: Chris |
Quote:
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Other/Misc.../0/O/nicky.png |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/111.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map111-L.jpg We're itching to be on the move again. After a few months of staycations, vacations and road trips around Guatemala, we are finally packing up everything and resuming our nomadic journey. However, circumstances dictated that we stay just a few days longer in Antigua while waiting for Neda's new rear tire to get shipped from the US. So we went out and wandered the streets for awhile. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_8972-L.jpg Parade in the streets celebrating the Benediction of San Francisco http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8963-XL.jpg OMG! So cute! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_8996-XL.jpg Hiked up to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, a large hill overlooking Antigua It's quite an experience being here in the off-season. Normally the view from Cerro de la Cruz in the summer is clear and you can see the cross against the backdrop of volcanoes unhampered by fogs or clouds, but I kind of like being in the town when there are less tourists. We've been here long enough that we're kind of semi-locals, and we've made enough friends here to consider making Antigua a home if we ever chose to settle down. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9036-L.jpg Such a cool place to play a volleyball game! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9054-XL.jpg Selling flowers on the streets of Antigua And then finally, we get the call. Neda's rear tire is ready for pickup in Guatemala City. It's just a quick trip to the BMW dealership to get it mounted. While we were waiting, I was fawning all over the new R1200GS. This new model is now liquid-cooled. Because I drooled all over it... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9075-L.jpg The receptionist behind me is calling Security http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0309-L.jpg Back in Antigua, Neda is facing a packing problem. Brought too much stuff back from Toronto... Finally, we are off! New rear tires, new batteries, new supplies, new clothes. We felt reinvigorated! And much heavier! :( As we rode south from the mountains of Guatemala, the temperature soared and it got much more humid. We had not seen 30C on the thermometer for quite some time. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0335-L.jpg Around scenic Lake Amatitlan, we pass the Guatemalan pole vault team http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9094-XL.jpg Apparently Gus Fring was working in another store today I've seen this fast food chicken chain, Pollo Campero, all over Guatemala and every time I see the logo, I think of Breaking Bad, which is our favorite TV show. So in dedication to the series finale this Sunday, we stop and eat at one in Santa Rosa, just before we cross the border. The chicken is actually very delicious! My diet starts next week... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...ermanos-XL.jpg Pollo Campero... Los Pollos Hermanos... Similarity? After lunch, the skies darkened considerably to signal the inevitable early afternoon rains. I tapped on my communicator to let Neda know we should put on our rainsuits. She told me, "I'm too hot. You go ahead. I'll put mine on right before it rains...". I crawled into my rainsuit in silence, while she sat on her bike waiting for me. Not five minutes later, the skies opened up a ferocious thunderstorm on top of our heads, complete with a frighteningly close lightning show. There was no room to stop on the narrow, curving road and I could see Neda's riding suit getting completely soaked. By the time she could find a straightaway to pull off to put her rainsuit on, she was drenched all the way to the bone. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0344-L.jpg Even with the communicator off, I could see lots of head-shaking and hear cussing. I already had my rainsuit on, so being being a bit bored I took some pictures... There are some perfect "I-Told-You-So" moments that happen once in a while. But you know that saying those words out loud just reduces you to a petty and small person, even though every fibre and muscle in your body just wants to yell it out. So I tapped on my communicator and smugly proclaimed, "Told ya so". Then I turned the communicator off... *kikiki* http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1278-L.jpg At the border, the guard inspects my passport... "Senor Lambert? De New Hampshire...?" "Si. I am the one who knocks." No wait, that's my engine again... The Guatemala/El Salvador border crossing is dead easy. Just hand over a few photocopies of your documents and you're through. We've crossed several Central America borders now and we know the process intimately: stamp yourself and your bikes out of one country, stamp yourself and your bikes into the next country. Unfortunately, the Salvadorean Aduana (customs) computer was down and we had to wait to import our bikes in. This *exact* same thing happened the last time we entered El Salvador 6 months ago! At a different crossing as well! Something tells me this happens all the time... So, we waited four hours for the computer to come back up. Being bored, I took more pictures. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9109-L.jpg Neda's bike waits patiently. The bridge to Guatemala in the background http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1286-L.jpg Sun sets and we are still waiting like everyone else for the Aduana computers to come back online Finally, the computers come back up and it's a very short wait to get the bikes imported into the country. I am a bit wary about riding in the dark, mainly because of road conditions and animals, but partly because of security. Our last run through El Salvador had us stopping just outside San Salvador and checking into a skanky "Love Motel". The owner back then told us not to leave the premises after sunset because it was too dangerous. However, riding through this part of the country, past nice neighbourhoods and lots of people walking on the streets, I got a much better feeling this time through. You always feel safer when there are parents and children walking around past sunset. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9127-L.jpg Rolled our bikes into the courtyard of our casa Just 15 kms away from the border, we rolled into the very pretty town of Ahuachapan. We knocked on the doors of a couple of casas and found one not too far from the main plaza. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9130-XL.jpg Plenty of people hanging out in the main plaza in Ahuachapan, as we walk around trying to find dinner http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9122-L.jpg Tuco's Grill http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9183-L.jpg In the morning, we strolled around town. Tuk tuk cruise the streets, mountains of El Salvador in the distance http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9144-L.jpg Not one whole day in town and we found ourselves a favorite restaurant. Had two meals here already! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9140-L.jpg All the buildings around the main plaza were decorated in these fun murals http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9146-XL.jpg Lots of kids and parents/grandparents everywhere in town. It felt like a great family environment, very welcoming Neda brought up the point that the people here are very friendly. There's always a "Buenos Dias" being exchanged whenever anyone passes each other on the streets. Although the Guatemalans are nice people, they are not overly friendly, and the last time we saw such an open display of welcome towards strangers was in Mexico. It felt really nice. What a difference from the last time we breezed through this country on the PanAmerican Highway. I am so glad we are taking the time now to experience it properly. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9173-L.jpg Lunch break in the Parque Centrale http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9160-L.jpg Even the street signs are fun! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9149-L.jpg These guys look like they are part of the mural, sitting against the fence! :) |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/112.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map112-L.jpg It started out as quite a nice day. Neda planned a great day trip out to Lago de Coatepeque, a lake that formed inside a volcanic caldera. It's similar to Crater Lake in Oregon, only not as large. It even has a small island inside the caldera, just like Wizard Island. Only about 45 minutes away, we made sure to leave early to beat the afternoon rains. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0366-L.jpg Riding the rim of the Caldera, great view of the lake http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2870-L.jpg Stopped for breakfast and to take in the view There's a small restaurant right at the lip of the volcano looking down into the lake, from there we have a beautiful view. The waiter gave us the menu and we asked what items were available, since we've found that most restaurants we've been to lately only have a limited selection. He answered that everything on the menu was available. Us: "Do you have the rabbit?” Him: "No." Us: "What about the vegetable plate?" Him: "Let me check.... No." Had a good laugh over that... :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9197-L.jpg Looking down into Lago de Coatepeque http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9203-L.jpg http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0376-L.jpg Next stop this morning was a ride up Cerro Verde, an uphill climb that promised great views at the top We pulled over a few times to take pictures. However at one stop, half-way up the climb, I turned the key and got the dreaded "EWS" message on my console. "EWS" stands for "Elektronische Wegfahr Sperre" and is a fancy German way of saying "Chu're not going anywhere, mein freund." EWS is an electronic immobilizer, it's an anti-theft control that communicates with the RF chip in your key so that nobody can hotwire your bike. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../redring-L.jpg What do these three things have in common? They all mean "computerfuktyew"... Unfortunately, there are a few things on the R1200GS that are prone to fail. Headlight bulbs (ongoing), final drive (got that fixed in San Jose), and now the EWS ring sensor that reads the chip in the key. I've read quite a lot about this problem on the online forums. It's gotten bad enough that owners carry a spare ring sensor and replace it right on the road if they ever get stranded. Not me though. Nothing bad will ever happen to me. I'm friggin' Superman... FML. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2883-L.jpg Getting at the battery to see what can be done Pollyanna that I am, I am still thinking it might not be a ring sensor failure. Sometimes if the voltage is too low, it can trigger a fault. I flag down a couple of cars to see if maybe I can get a jumpstart from a battery with good voltage. A family in an old truck pull over and I ask if they have jumper cables. The gentleman's name is Francisco and he replies no, but immediately gets out, pops his hood and starts to remove the battery from his truck *AND* the connecting cables! The cables are to short to reach, so I have to hold the battery while Francisco makes the connections manually, and Neda turns the key and tries to start the bike. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_2885-L.jpg Francisco to the rescue! His family cheers us on. Nothing. The letters "EWS" stare at me mockingly. I'm stranded. The sky is darkening and it looks like it's going to rain. Great. We assess the situation. We need to get the bike to a dealership. Can we load it into Francisco's truck? Not 550lbs without a ramp, we can't. Maybe we can call for a tow? We're in the middle of nowhere and San Salvadore is 100kms away, how much is that going to cost? I get desperate. We put together my bike and because we've ridden uphill for the last 15 minutes, I try bump starting my bike while coasting downhill. There is so much compression from the huge cylinders that I'm locking up the rear wheel in 2nd and 3rd gear. Put it in 4th and then jump on the seat while popping the clutch. The engine wants to turn over, I can hear it, and I get my hopes up. But still nothing. The EWS is preventing me from bump starting the bike. That's what it's supposed to do - prevent hotwiring, bumpstarting, etc. Academically, I know all of this. Yet I am desperate to try anything. I turn the key off and on, off and on, many times and then... that one time I try.... No EWS. I thumb the starter quickly as if those dreaded three letters will appear if I don't turn the engine over in time (rational thought escapes you in times like these). The engine starts with a rumble. As if nothing ever happened. I'm friggin' Superman, bitch. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0380-L.jpg I ride back uphill and thank Francisco and his family (wife Merced and son Francisco Javier) profusely Even though all of our collective efforts really didn't do anything, it was the ring sensor that decided to work that one time, I couldn't thank Francisco enough. It's times like these when I get so buoyed by how kind and generous people are. He gave us his telephone number and told us to call him if we needed anything else. I wanted to hug him. So I did. :) But in a manly, Latin American way... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0383-L.jpg Making sure this was the right place before I turned the engine off With the sky threatening rain, we had to ride to San Salvadore to the dealership before it closed for the day. Fighting though big city traffic, I was conscious not to turn the engine off, stall the bike, and at stops - to put the kickstand up before I kick it out of neutral etc. We pulled into a BMW dealership and I sent Neda in to make sure it was the actual service centre before I turned the bike off. Thankfully we did that, because the actual service was about 7 kms away from the dealership. The technician at the service centre confirmed my diagnosis. Faulty ring sensor. Unfortunately, they didn't have any in stock and it would take two weeks to order one in. *ARGH!* http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9242-L.jpg "So what I was thinking is that I don't turn the engine off for the rest of the trip. Just sell me a keyless gas cap and I'll be on my way..." Rafael, the technician, was surprised that my ring sensor wasn't replaced earlier. Apparently, this was a known issue and there was a recall that replaced the sensor with a newer part that was less prone to failure. I shrugged my shoulders. Never got the call... He told me that he had an old ring sensor that he took off another bike that was still good, but because it was the older part, it might fail: "Maybe tomorrow, maybe three years from now, maybe never?". He didn't want to install the old part because it was labour-intensive to replace an old part with another old part, since I had to buy and fit the new part somewhere further down the line anyway. So he told me he'd jury-rig something up, however I needed a spare key for this bodge-job. The spare key was back in Ahuachapan, 100 kms away... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...O/IMG_2896.jpg So off we go on Neda's bike, 100kms back to Ahuachapan. 100kms back to San Salvadore the next morning. El Salvadore is a small country. Maybe 300kms end to end. We rode a total of 400kms back and forth to get my bloody spare key.... I had plenty of time to ruminate over how complex these bikes have become. Back in India, I was on my hands and knees fixing that bloody Enfield every single day. But I was able to. I could use anything: sticks, stones, bailing wire to keep that thing going. But now, computers and sensors and chips meant that you could be stranded and not be able to do a damn thing about it until you got that same electronic part replaced. I thought about all the places we wanted to visit, some nowhere near a BMW dealership. Is it feasible taking a computerized two-wheeler to the remotest places on Earth? Rafael told me the new R1200GS has 9 computers in it. Suddenly, that POS kick-starter, carbureted Royal Enfield was looking better and better... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...MG_1289-XL.jpg Two keys, one ring to rule them all... One does not simply walk to San Salvadore. So here's the temporary fix. He unplugged the original ring sensor and plugged it into another ring sensor that he zip-tied to the headstock. Because the new (but old) ring sensor needed to have a chipped key inside the ring, and the original ignition needed a key to turn the bike on, I needed two keys to start the bike. It was like the NORAD missile defense. Two keys to launch the missiles. I knew where I wanted to launch this stupid EWS ring sensor... Back in business. We thanked Rafael and now we're back on the road, baby! Timing the weather in a new country is tricky. Still haven't got the hang of it. |
You both are amazing!
:mchappy:
I came across your blog/travels by chance! "serendipity" at it's finest! The photos! WoW! and the way you write about your trip is PERFECT! It educates me and keeps me so entertained, i can not help but 'tune back in for the next episode' of your lives and what you are doing! especially in the hard times or the 'not so straight-forward' experiences! *grin*'! ....that sense of humor is amazing! It really keeps me coming back for more! Keep on doing what you are doing! thumbs up all the way! Good Luck to you both on your trip! i admire you both and wish you the best! And I can assure you - your Spanish is MUCH better than mine! If I was allowed to ask a question I guess it would be - how do you sustain finacing such an amazing trip ? you dont have to answer that but that is always the question in the back of my mind! I just cant help wondering, how much would you recommend 2 people to take with them on an embark on a journey, like you guys have? Cos I ....."have a dream! " *smile* |
starmaker - get yourself to a HUBB meeting, all the questions you've thought of and many you haven't even thought of yet would most likely be answered at one of these. At the meeting we attended we met a someone who managed to be on the road for 10k total for an entire year. It really depends on so many factors - how do you like to travel? Nice restaurants/hotels every night or do you plan on camping/couch-surfing/hostels/friends? North America, Europe, Asia, South America all have very different costs. If you can't make a meeting, then you'll find lots of info on this forum. :welcome: aboard by the way!
@lightcycle - my understanding is that people get rid of gear as they get on with their trip, I think that's the first time I've seen someone double up on stuff. Me thinks you're gonna need a bigger bike...or maybe a small trailer lol. I actually wanted to ask a gear related question myself. After seeing the rain there and having a very similar ride into work today I am wondering if you guys had to get new riding gear, would you do it differently and get something more waterproof (read Goretex or the like) having experienced what you have, or do you like having better ventilation and throwing on rain gear every time you need to? Careful how you answer, at your pace we should catch up to you before you get out of Central America next winter. Kidding bier In fact anything not working for you guys like you expected (bike gear/personal gear/equipment - anything like that) that you wish you could change or have changed (besides the minor hiccup with the bike I mean)? Cheers, Mark |
Quote:
So here are a couple of great resources right here on HU. The figures in this article seem to jive with what we are experiencing: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/get-ready/budgeting However, different members on the HUBB have varying viewpoints on budgeting. Interesting thread here: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...s-of-rtw-56177 As far as financing, we did it the old fashion way - save and sell everything. We've met a lot of other RTW travelers and almost every single one had a different approach. Some rented their house, so they had a bit of income while traveling. Some take out a loan and fund their travels on credit cards. Others found work while on the road, one guy took a job as a mechanic in Colombia, another guy had a web business he was still tending to, some people get (not a lot of) money from selling ads on their blog, others get paid to write travel articles for online or print magazines. I was surprised at how many young Canadians are on the road after working and saving for a year up in the oil fields in northern Alberta. If there's a will, there's a way, and there doesn't seem to be a right or wrong answer. Quote:
A bulky, waterproof suit would have me sweltering in humid 40C conditions, so I wear mesh as a base, protective layer. If the weather gets cold, I have the option of throwing on a sweater underneath and/or the rainsuit on top as a windproof layer. In extreme cold (like -15C in the Arctic), we wear the Gerbings liner under the mesh. We're in no rush, so stopping to put on layers is not a concern to us. Being very comfortable in the present condition trumps being mildly uncomfortable in all conditions. As far as things working/not working - I'm not happy with the weight distribution on my bike. It makes the front end very floaty and I don't have a lot of confidence in front wheel grip on twisty roads. The biggest culprit is the topcase, which puts weight high up and behind the rear axle. When we do day-trips and I ditch the Givi, the bike feels a lot better. I do leave it empty most of the time, but the case itself is fairly heavy. It is so handy putting groceries in there and storing gear when we're hiking or walking around, that I'm debating whether to give up the security vs handling. I've looked at solutions like the PacSafe mesh, but it's such a PITA to put on and take off daily that everyone I know that's bought one has sold them later on down the road. |
Thank you!
Thank you for the warm welcome Mark and the speedy reply Lightcycle! - i really appreciate it! Thank you for your help! I will definitely look into everything you both suggested!
I know the question is like asking 'what's the weather going to be like today?" or "how long is a piece of string!" It's hard to pin-point a "one size fits all" pricetag on a trip like this! I am thinking camping and cooking type of trip for alot of it, to keep the budget as low as possible so we can go for as long as possible! Myself and my husband would like to visit all 50 states, sell up and give up the jobs and get on the road! In about 4 years from now! So we are just at the planning stage at the moment! I was too scared to visit Mexico in our plan (because of the negative news, about druglords and criminals!- mind you what news ISN'T negative these days?) Once i started following YOUR journey, I felt amazed by all the wonderful experiences you both have had! You have put a smile on my face and wonderment in my heart! Now i too, want to visit some of the towns and cities that you have shown to me! I'm not scared anymore! *smile* I'm excited! Now, I feel like I have 'interrupted this show for some commercials' by asking my questions! So I will now, read up on the advice you have both given me! And allow your wonderful journey to continue! Looking forward to the next installment! Thanks for everything! Good luck and if you ever head towards florida - let me know! Would be very happy to offer you a room for the night! *smile* Have fun! |
starmaker you've definitely come to the right place to get info on the subject that's for sure, there is plenty here to get you started. I find the HU community to be the most global of all forums I'm on. I know I've already suggested The HUBB meeting but it really was invaluable to us, it was just inspiring to have met so many cool people who have done what we are about to embark on and the amount of first hand information was just amazing.
I also appreciate the quick response Gene. We've been looking to replace our riding gear for a bit and I've gone full circle a couple of times now starting with mesh to something like a Sand2 to Klim. And since we're planning on a similar route to you I was curious what worked well for you in all those climates. I definitely see the benefit to a mesh set up and just layering, in fact that's what has worked for me most of this year during our trips. A huge concern for us is to do with space as we're going 2up. We've also been tossing around the Pacsafe idea, so that's good to read. Not trying to steal the show but we're both super stoked now that our condo just sold. We do have to find somewhere to live for a few months over the winter and plan on heading out middle of May. I've been struggling with work recently and was considering quitting a bit early so it was quite funny when the boss called me in to the office and offered me a promotion - perfect way to end my career I think. Just had to share that, I have a feeling you know how exciting all that is. Although I've enjoyed your blog long before your RTW, this is definitely one of my most favourite ones to read and has only helped to inspire us. Thanks. Anyway, back to the regularly scheduled programming... |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/113.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map113-L.jpg Just a quick update: After a very eventful couple of days, we're travelling 35 kms south of Ahuchapan on the very scenic and windy Ruta de las Flores, which flows past a few picturesque towns in the heart of El Salvador's coffee crop region. Thankfully, very little drama - the weather was clear and the two-key hack job was working thus far! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9250-L.jpg Stopping for a scenic break beside a fruit vendor at the side of the road http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0387-L.jpg Riding around Ataco, one of the towns on the Ruta de las Flores http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0393-L.jpg Arrived in Juayua, our overnight destination http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN0397-XL.jpg Neda forgot to copy the hostel's address from the laptop to her iPhone... RideDOT.com is environmentally friendly - we're paperless! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9303-L.jpg Parque Centrale in Juayua The reason why we're staying one night in Juayua is because Neda read that there was a Gastronomical Festival every weekend in town. Seeing how I am trying to lose weight, she thinks this would be a great event to attend. I trick myself into mishearing that we are attending an Astronomical Conference. I always wanted to be an astronaut! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9261-L.jpg Not the astronomical festival - just a market. The Astronomical Festival is a couple of long rows of makeshift kitchens and grills representing different restaurants and storefronts in the city. We're told that there are over 100 different places where you can sample the local cuisine. Most of the grills just serve the Salvadorean mainstay - a side of grilled beef and a sausage with some veggies on the side. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9281-L.jpg Billions and billions of years ago, the Earth was created from a great ball of fire http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9286-L.jpg Mouth-watering presentation! Vendors offer window-shoppers a taste of their dishes on toothpicks http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9288-L.jpg This is what we settled on - battered shrimp, baked potatoes and a side of grilled beef. Delicious! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9307-L.jpg After lunch, we visited La Iglesia de Santa Lucia, right on the main plaza http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9328-XL.jpg Santa Lucia is known for its large statue of Cristo Negro (Black Christ) I'm not sure why this Christ is black, but I suspect it has something to do with a Madonna video. Did I mention the Astronomical Festival is sponsored by Pepsi? http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9325-L.jpg Deep in prayer at La Iglesia de Santa Lucia |
Lightcycle - just wow!! I have no words, you are AMAZING! I feel like I'm living out my dream through you. Your stories are so inspiring, your comments are educational and your photos are just out of this world! Latin America is a place that has been on my list to visit ever since I started to learn Spanish. I feel like you do need a lot of time to travel around it and to really get to know the culture, and I fear that I will never take that step and just go (but mainly for financial reasons I think). I wish you all the best, and hope you have an amazing time travelling around! Stay safe! :)
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Updated from Oct 02 2013: Surf's Up at El Tunco
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map114-L.jpg It seems like such a long time since we've visited the ocean - since coming back from Cuba, I think! So, on the advice of a few people, we headed south from Juayua to the Pacific shore of El Salvador. I am not a morning person, in fact, I'm a bit of a night owl. My normal bed-time is about 2-4AM local time regardless of what time zone we find ourselves in. However, rainy season in Central America has me performing unnatural acts: every night before she falls asleep, Neda reminds me that we have to be up at 5:30AM so that we can get an early start so that we're not riding in the afternoon rains. Easy for her, she's turns into a pumpkin at 11AM, a whole hour before Cinderella does! I can't wait till rainy season is over. I''m gonna sleep in till noon every single day. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9378-L.jpg On our way to the coast, we encounter some kind of roadblock. And then these guys parade right past our stopped bikes! Right in the middle of nowhere, close to no town, traffic is stopped both ways to let a parade through, complete with a marching band, baton twirlers, dancers, etc. There must have been 500 of them. So bizarre. I Google this later on and find out that it's probably a rehearsal for El Dia del Nino (Children's Day), which is the day after - October 1st. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9418-L.jpg One of the marching band guys with the big drums thumped Neda's pannier with his drumstick as he walked by! LOL! We had a lot of fun on the twisty coastal road (see map above)! Every once in a while when the road curved towards the shoreline, we'd get a glimpse of the Pacific ocean through the trees and then the asphalt would ribbon itself back towards the coast, just as quickly. Our destination on the shoreline is El Tunco, a really laid-back surfing village that attracts both foreigners from all over the world and locals alike. We don't surf, but we do enjoy a good beach, so we booked into a hostel for a few days. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9694-L.jpg Beach is littered with surfer dudes and dudettes http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9434-L.jpg El Tunco means "The Pig", because this big rock by the shoreline looks like a pig. I don't see it... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9662-L.jpg Early morning surfer hanging ten. I have no idea what that really means... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9582-L.jpg Also sharing the surf: local fishermen throwing nets into the waves. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9704-L.jpg We spend the morning watching a surf competition. Two judges with clipboards behind us score the surfers http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9601-L.jpg I don't know how to score surfing, but if this was a motorcycle stunt competition, I'd give him a 10 out of 12 o'clock wheelie... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9470-L.jpg This is Boobah. I'm talking about the dog. That's the dog's name... Boobah hangs out at the beach full-time. He doesn't belong to anyone. Yet everybody knows his name. Can't figure out how everyone knows his name is Boobah? I really want to meet whoever's naming stuff around here! :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9816-L.jpg Hanging out with the beautiful people There are some really fit people hanging out at El Tunco. It's like there's a convention of Ab Roller spokespeople this week or something. I glance down self-consciously at my Pupusa-fueled Skinny-Guy-Pot-Belly... Maybe the shirt stays on for the next few days... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9763-L.jpg Dude! Sweet! The beaches here are black volcanic sand that's littered with large rocks. You don't get many beach-blanket sun bathers here, it's purely a surf haven, well known for its consistent rolling waves. We're just here because there was a twisty road around the corner! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9952-L.jpg Neda takes a Pilates class at our hostel. Her instructor is ripped! Check out her delts! The only deltoids I’ve ever had were breath mints. No wait, that's not right... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_9935-XL.jpg You can tell she's not a local because she's using her hands http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9909-L.jpg Evenings at the beach become a magical moment http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9847-L.jpg Surfers calling it a day http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9906-L.jpg Everyone pauses to check out the sun disappearing below the horizon http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_9541-L.jpg Nightlife on the main strip of El Tunco The last few days at El Tunco have been awesome! We've found a favorite restaurant, which we go back to every day. It's such a small village, everybody knows we're the motorcycle people. Because we're the only ones here with pasty skin and not carrying a surfboard everywhere we go... More Boobah on the beach! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/115.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map115-L.jpg We're on the move again. Today we are going to ride through the Honduras, tackling both borders in a single day. We've absolutely enjoyed riding around Central America - the people, culture and geography here are wonderful. The only exception - that Twilight Zone between countries, where a deluge of helpers, documents and stamps, money changers, photocopies and queues threaten to spoil all the good impressions we've had so far. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0424-L.jpg Neda is not one to be Bullied around on the road! This is our second time through, having done this same crossing at the same place just 7 months ago. That time was under great duress - we were in a rush to meet the Stahlratte in Panama, I had a full-blown flu and was running a high fever while on the bike, and we were bickering and arguing at each border crossing. This time around, we're going to use all our lessons learned from the first time and try to make this crossing more enjoyable. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0426-L.jpg "I am not a crook!" Most important lesson: Be prepared. Give yourself lots of time. Get to the border early. Have all your photocopies ready. Avoid Hanger (Hunger+Anger) Management Issues: arrive on a full stomach, bring lots of water and snacks. We approach the west border separating El Salvador and Honduras around 9:30AM. It's already hot and we're thankful that we've brought a lot of water. About a km away before the actual border lies the El Salvador Aduana booth, where we have to cancel our vehicle permit. Dozens of people come running towards our bikes, looking like some angry mob. But they're not angry. They want to help us cross the border. For money, of course... We know the drill by now, the helpers urge us to pull over, motioning to the side of the road. We make a game out of it, swerving around them like pylons. Some of them start to chase our bikes, like paparazzi stalking Justin Bieber. When we pull in front of the Aduana booth, they launch into their spiel: "This is the hardest border crossing in the world!", "Is impossible! Cannot cross without my help", "One does not simply ride into Honduras"... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle.../L/step3-L.jpg First stop: Get El Salvador vehicle permit canceled Neda strides purposefully to the Aduana booth, using her superhuman Spanish skills to stymie the helpers swarming around her. Concerning all matters regarding the Espanol, I am the sidekick: the Robin to her Batman, the Watson to her Sherlock Holmes, the Wilson to her Castaway... Neda has given me the UberImportant task of keeping guard over the bikes while she attends to business. This is the action-movie equivalent of being told to stay in the van during the exciting fight scenes. So I devise a way to amuse myself while she does Superhero stuff. I am going to document step-by-step how to cross one of the most frustrating borders in Central America, if not the world. And I'm going to take lots of pictures. Because I do that anyway... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/step42-L.jpg Aduana completed, we head to the Immigration to get our passports stamped out The "helper" industry is big business. Although you wouldn't know it from the prices they charge. Some offer their border crossing services for $5. Ignore them long enough and they lower the price to $1. Before you go thinking that's a great deal, the reality is that the helper will broker all transactions between you and the officials, so if a fee actually costs $3 USD, they will tell you it will cost $15 and pocket the extra $12. And there are many transactions to complete at the border (some are even no-cost, but your helper won't tell you that). Officially, it should only cost $38 USD to cross the border with yourself and a motorcycle. However, I've heard horror stories of travelers paying $150-$200 *MORE* than they should have at this border crossing! Big business. They mainly target non-Spanish-speakers. Often they'll point to fancy (and some not so fancy) laminated badges that they wear around their necks implying that they are officials of some sort. If you look closely at some of the badges, you will see that the pictures printed on them might not even match the face of the badge-wearer! LOL! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/step61-L.jpg After getting stamped out of El Salvador, we've got to get stamped into Honduras Another species of border dwellers are money changers - CambioGuys - who roam around with big wads of bills in their hands. They provide a foreign currency exchange service and their exchange rate is very good. Very good for them. Not for you. They are all in collusion with each other not to compete for rates, so don't bother shopping around. I heard a great tip: If you haven't planned wisely and still have a lot of the local currency when you hit the border, don't use a CambioGuy. Instead, try to find another traveler coming from the other direction and exchange money with them, since you'll both need the currency from where you both came from and you can use the official exchange rate to both your benefits. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/step62-L.jpg Assortment of helpers and CambioGuys stare helplessly as Neda completes Aduana (customs) by herself Between pestering Neda for information on what she has just done at every stage so I can complete my How-To document, I am given a new task: Waterboy. I really have to pick up this Espanol-language thing if I'm ever going to make it out of the van... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/step64-L.jpg Finally, after two hours, the Holy Grail of overland travelers: Temporary Vehicle Permit for Honduras http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0439-L.jpg Familiar sight at border crossings: food stalls and photocopy places http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0442-L.jpg Finally we cross the border, and we run into the Iguana Motorcycle Club from Honduras! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0444-L.jpg Riding the Pan American highway through Honduras http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0452-L.jpg 200 kms later, we reach the eastern border of Honduras There are not a lot of helpers at the Honduras/Nicaragua border. You can always tell how difficult and complicated the border crossing will be by how many helpers swarm you. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0454-L.jpg I like how all the border crossing buildings are colour-co-ordinated! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN0455-XL.jpg Every picture of Neda I have today is of her lined up at some booth! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_1304-L.jpg How nice of the fumigation guy to Armor-All our tires... :( http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN0472-L.jpg Yay! We're in Nicaragua! If you are a planning to travel through Honduras with a vehicle, you can view the step-by-step write-up on how to bypass the helpers and do-it-yourself (even with little or no Spanish) in our Questions section here: http://www.RideDOT.com/faq/honduras.html |
Boobah rocks :clap:
and you rock too :D |
Thank you for the Updates - really beauful pictures!
I like the Picture&Short note combination :thumbup1: Surfy |
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