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The Ho Chi min trail and the lost Temples of Laos
Hello to all, this is my first post on HU....
I'm a 46 year old Motor Vehicle Tutor from London, been riding most of my life around Europe, last year I did a little trail riding in Thailand and really enjoyed it. The roads at home are so congested I'm no longer riding and just use the AX1 to commute, the SMT will be sold when I get home. I always new of Laos but never really understood that most of the HM trails where there, once I figured it out I started reading about it I was hooked. I love the Asian way of life and started to plan my trip. The idea was to go see as much war stuff as possible... What a trip this would turn out to be..... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...-selling-M.jpg |
Hi matey
Good to see you on-board and meeting you in in CMX. Looking forward to your ride-report. Happy New Year. Chris |
Hi Steve, I'll have a cooking pot, scrubbing brush and a pair of flip-flops please. ;)
:welcome: |
tagging along
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heading there next so following with interest!!!
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Thank you Chris,Twobob, CY and Rixxy for you reply, Twobob I only have Flip flop's up to size 6, have some more on order should have them next week...bier
Well I'm back home so the trip is complete. I'm proud of what I have done and humbled buy what I have seen. People always ask me why do you do it, I don't really know, the fact I travel alone seems to mystify them even more, I hope this report will turn up all the answers... Are you scared of nothing? this was the last thing the Wife said to me before she stamped my months Kitchen pass...I would remember these words at various times of the trip. Seemed strange that my trip into Laos would start at Udorn as this is where most of the Planes in the Secret war would be based, I did not plan this but hey great place to start. Over the Fence and into Laos, the Visa was obtained buy going to 3 different windows all manned buy the same person, slightly amusing for me, the Visa was sorted,a lao guy came over and offered me Taxi into town..meet Mr H, he was a Diamond. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060096-L.jpg I had no Hotel booked and asked him to help me find me one.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060139-L.jpg This would work out to be a good choice, my bike as being delivered the next day at 5pm so I booked him to take me sight seeing around the capital for the day, 9am start so an early night for me. I woke up at midday and he was still waiting so we set of for a trip around the Temples and museums and a spot of shopping. This is the first King of Laos 15 century I'm told.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060084-L.jpg Here's a random selection of Vientiane, quiet beautiful http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060100-L.jpg A little Champ De Elysée http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060109-L.jpg This looked like a good place for a few prayers for a safe trip http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060118-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060125-L.jpg This was the Laos peoples museums, very interesting but no photo's allowed http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060128-L.jpg We had a full day out and returned to the Hotel to collect the bike.:D The bike arrived early, I had hired it from remote Asia, Jim the rep guy spent a considerable length of time going over the bike and filling me in with the what not do in Laos. I had a fully equipped tool kit,3 spare inner tubes,lever,cables,spark plugs, I had bought some tools but know I had a complete set, he even gave me a Laos sim card and asked me to report in every couple of days, thanks Jim, I now had a friend in Laos.. I was ready for the off first thing in the morning, I was also a Millionaire sevral times over, at last..in Kip. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB060138-L.jpg I decided an early night get the gear all prepared and set of bright and early. I had lots of way points saved in the GPS, the level of information on this Laos Sd card was amazing, I would get to meet the guy who mapped all this. After sorting the kit I had dinner and went to my room and watched the Kings of Thailand birthday celebrations on the TV, I can only liken the scenes on the TV to that of the Pope when he's out and about, I was moved by there devotion to him, Long live the king. About11 pm I heard a lot of shouting out side and though that fight must be under way, I'm not getting out of bed for that I thought, then the noise escalated and I could here the fear in peoples voices, I jumped out of bed only to see a man running down the stairs into the court yard holding a gun, he ran into the road and then there was a massive yellow flash and bang, he started to fire shots into the Bar, people started fleeing the place like rats leaving a sinking ship, more shots fired and then it moves out of my view to the front of the bar, more shots lots of noise, after about 5 minutes all was quiet, 2 guys came running back round to the back of the bar, washed of a couple of Machetes and took them inside. no police came...it was at this point I thought of my wife's comment "are you scared of nothing"....yeah guns GULP. |
hey
crazy i hope it gets better, i don't like guns either!!! Looking forward to getting there in a months time though! |
This is the planned route for the day, I just wanted to get down to the trails and get used to riding in Laos, there was one stop on the way, other then that I was just taking in the scenery...
http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...t/0/L/R1-L.gif The view http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070162-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070171-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB080186-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB080184-L.jpg My first stop....Sam Missle... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070155-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070158-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070159-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070157-L.jpg This was tucked in behind a building, never would have found it without the GPS, there are a few of these sites around Laos. I arrived here quiet early so I had some lunch and then headed for what I considered the start of my Journey...The Ho Chi Minh Trail. This was it.... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070167-L.jpg With the warning signs http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB070166-L.jpg :funmeteryes: This is where the Tarmac ends for most of the trip.... |
I'm in.....!
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Need any flip flops?..:D |
12 Months of planning and the moment has arrived, I'm about to ride the Ho Chi Minh. There is so much History woven into it's 6000Km's plus of trails. It was under construction long before the Vietnam war and would grow much bigger as the war went on, whilst this was going on there was a secret war going on in Laos. The trails where vital to the war in the South and where bombed beyond belief, and now I get to go ride some of it.
How hard can it be? what did the wife say? Afternoon Trail http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...G/0/L/R2-L.gif I really had no idea what I was letting myself in for....:helpsmilie: One last look behind and where off http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB070170-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080179-L.jpg This is great.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080178-L.jpg Taking my time, taking it in.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB070175-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080189-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080187-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080190-L.jpg And then the bike starts to slow down.....:confused1: http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080177-L.jpg Easy fix and lesson no 1 learnt http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080183-L.jpg Back on the road... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080184-L.jpg Nice Bridge.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB070173-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB070172-L.jpg It was good day and i was just about to do my first ever water crossing..:clap: Here she is.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080192-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080193-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080195-L.jpg That was a big moment and I had come through it well, it may well of only been a puddle but it was a great warm up for what was to come. There were a few special places along the route, choke points, craters and some weird landscape. With all this fun It had taken me a long time to get to the road leading up to the Mi Gua pass, the wind had really started howling and after 1 gust nearly blew me of the road, I decided to make a break for the nearest Hotel, it had been a good day and I didn't want to spoil it with any heroism. :funmeteryes: |
Hey Steve, keep up the great posts with the awesome pictures, enjoying it!
I was wondering, how long did your trip last in total? Also, about the bike, I saw it has Laos plates (or Thai, or whatever). Did you just rent the bike or purchased it? Wondering if the process is complicated to get a bike like that in Southeast Asia. Last question, aren't there any dangers with the multiple mines all around Laos and Cambodia to do off-trail biking there? Cheers, Sam |
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I had to double back on myself last night to find a place to stay, about 50k's, so I was up early and would give the Mi Gua pass another crack..
A nice looking morning..and the fast route back to MG Pass http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080203-L.jpg Chatting up the Girls... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080215-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080205-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080209-L.jpg A great way to start the day.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080206-L.jpg As I got close the wind started to pick up again and the weather started to change.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080220-L.jpg As I hit the bottom of the climb up it was blowing a Gail, raining hard and bloody cold...the wind is blowing me every where, I would not make it to the top and felt lucky to get to the bottom safe, so I head back to the trail and start my quest for Ban Laboy ford. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...2/0/L/R3-L.gif It was about 10.30 and just over 100k's, no problem.. Here's a close up of the first section.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la.../L/R3-CU-L.gif Looks like a lot of water, this would be no easy day..:oops2: |
keep it coming
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Good stuff Steve, more please.
Oh and do you have those flip flops with the LEDs, the ones that glow in the dark, size 9 :D |
Some more no problem, Flip Flops on there way, you gonna look great in them.:funmeteryes:
Ban Laboy ford is supposed to be the most bombed bit of Land in the world, it was a Major crossing for the Vietnamese, there are some photos on the net that show just how much it was Bombed, when bombing over Hanoi was suspended the Bombs where diverted into Laos, long before the B52’s started pounding the place. The sky was getting angry time to get going. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080221-L.jpg More angry http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080222-L.jpg If one of the reasons you do this sort of thing is to find the limit...I can tick that box!! http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080223-L.jpg I noticed many cave entrances along the trails through the Mountains but thought it unwise to start poking around in the bushes. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080224-L.jpg The road conditions change all the time, deep ruts,sand,mud,loose gravel and water crossings, I would stop counting them... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080227-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080229-L.jpg And then I fell off..doh |
First thing was to stop the bike as it was revving it’s nuts off, got it back up and looked it over, it was Ok just a broken bark buster, the GPS had come off and the battery cover clip had broken off, I tried it in it’s mount and it’s clipped back in closing the cover tight, this was a very important piece of equipment, it could tell me where I am and could find anything from ATM’s to fuel drums in tiny villages, my friend indeed.
My left thumb was not so good; I left the glove on and got some painkillers from my medicine cabinet Prayed it wasn’t as bad as it felt, all alone in the jungle soon sprung to mind. Best be on your way, time is getting on and I still have a long way to go, the trails snaked up and down and into the Jungle and my thumb hurt like hell, holding on was a problem, using the clutch lever was to painful. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC110010-L.jpg The trails got harder and then the water started, this gave me a bit of a shock when I came up to it.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080232-L.jpg I sat and watched the locals for a bit then walked it.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080235-L.jpg This was the shallow end.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080234-L.jpg It had been graded to a degree but there was some big holes and rocks that had to be avoided, here we go.. No problem, with a sense of relief I pressed on, this would be next... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080237-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080239-L.jpg I would need to use the boat.. This was a little scary as the boat rocked from one side to the other..:helpsmilie: http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080240-L.jpg Off the other side and back into the Jungle Bomb Craters everywhere.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080241-L.jpg I met this guy coming out of the bush, scrap metal hunter.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080243-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080244-L.jpg Brave chap to go poking around in there.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080245-L.jpg We didn't understand each other but a few smiles is enough, the trails didn't let up and more water, I stopped counting them buy now.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080246-L.jpg walk it first, I'm soaked.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080248-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080247-L.jpg Another crossing and my confidence is growing..then another.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080249-L.jpg Walk it first.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB080251-L.jpg Time was not on my side it was taking ages, the trails was just relentless, then I hit this little bit of mud and the front wheel just dug in and I'm off again.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090252-L.jpg This time I'm stuck, the handle bar has sunk right into the mud and the bike stuck, switch the fuel off and collect my thought, my thumb is screaming at me now, I physically cannot move the bike..:helpsmilie: Two locals turn up and I'm rescued... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090253-L.jpg They got stuck and it was my turn to help them..they had pigs in the sacks on the bike, thanks fellas.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090255-L.jpg The bikes ok.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090256-L.jpg I'm not going to make Ban Laboy tonight so set a route for the nearest guest house. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090257-L.jpg The trail was still hard..the kids where hiding from me.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090259-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090260-L.jpg Soon it was all over and the guest house had rooms http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100284-L.jpg Thank god for that. It had been an epic day..my feet where like prunes.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB090265-L.jpg I had made it.:thumbup1: |
You've picked a great place to explore Steve ... :funmeteryes:
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Sorry Yem meant to put the big fun meter in, I read your ride report, excellent stuff. :funmeteryes:
It's been my first week back at work :( I want to go back!! to Laos It was great to clean up and get a chance to check my thumb out, I was getting worried that I might have to rest up until it got better but nothing was broken so the trip must go on, I had plenty of painkillers. I looked at my GPS and found a place that said best food in town, walked up there and got stuck into some food washed down with a couple of beer Laos. I talked to a young lady who worked in the Goldmine up the road, my motto is Talk to anybody that will listen, you never now who your going to meet, made some great friends over the years doing this, it would turn out that I would soon make some more. Before I went to bed I checked all the kit and made ready for a late start back up to Ban Laboy, I had lost my water filter, must have came off when I crashed, bugger. I planned to stay here 2 nights and do short Journeys for a couple of days, go see some war stuff. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2321-L.jpg I was up at 10 am and headed back up the road to get some breakfast, I saw 4 Farangs in a Bike shop and we said hello, they where having bike problems, they had a lot of them. They where doing the HM trails and had been up at the MG pass the morning I didn’t make it up, they had travelled to the same place as me but buy a different route. I told them that I was going back to BL and they where up for it, lets go fellas With all the messing around that occurs when you are in a group we didn’t set of until just after 1, I was already getting worried about the time. These guys apart from 1 had lots of experience; they had ridden in Laos, Cambodia and rode dirt back in Australia. Meet the Thunder from Down under. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PC160253-L.jpg The Sarge (Doug) He was the group leader and had planned the routes, itinerary. Even for me…. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSCF0344-L.jpg Harold steptoe (Graham) Good rider, quiet bloke that also loves the war stuff. Great riding with you. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSCF0298-L.jpg Buddha Craig (Craig) The calm man, we laughed man…even though you picked on me… http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSCF0401-L.jpg Uncle Sam. (Sam) The wisdom you bought to the Table was inspiring, a great man indeed. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080132-L.jpg With kind permission from the above, these are some of the photos they had taken on route. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080144-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080143-L.jpg Glad I didn’t go that way. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080141-L.jpg Locals waiting for it to go wrong.... http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080137-L.jpg Jeez man http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080140-L.jpg it went wrong http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...0/O/Bridge.jpg fantastic stuff....They thought they had a hard day!!! Today's ride would see that change We set of for BL I’m leading the group, promotion already hey, this was one hard trail. It would take us 2hrs to go 30k’s I had done it the day before, and was loving it second time round I knew what to expect, I even new where the big rocks where in the river crossing. I’m having a ball. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090172-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090170-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2084-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2085-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2086-L.jpg We arrived at this village; I had passed through yesterday but not seen all the old bomb casings lying around. These trails didn’t leave much time for sight seeing; it was 100% concentration all the time, time to stop and have a look around. We where amazed to find all this just laying around, the scrap value must be good, I’m told that 3-4 years ago we would have seen much more, every now and again a big 6 wheel drive truck would come through the villages and buy it from them. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090159-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090160-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090161-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090163-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090168-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC090166-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2090-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2089-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2094-L.jpg Buy this time we still had 15k’s to go, once again I would not make BL, it would be dark on the way back and the trails where to nasty to start taking risks, so we spent some money in the local store and decided to head back to the hotel, we managed this just before the sun went down. |
A few last shots of the village..
http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100281-L.jpg Beautiful kids http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100283-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100282-L.jpg We had some food and few beers and reflected on our day.. Doug had written about his trip, this is what he said about our trip to BL "we met Chris, a Pom on the same mission, heading south on HCMTrail. Chris had a GPS(Gizmo), so after Sam’s bike was fixed, we decided on a short tour to a village, 20km out, that holds the title of the ‘Most Bombed Place’ on earth. 10km from town we turned into a goat track, for the next 20km(1.5hrs) it really was ‘Hell on Two Wheels’, deep ruts, mud, sand, deep rocky water crossings, and yep more offs, we still had to get back yet! We came across bombs, even used as gluts to stack timber on, of varying shapes and sizes scattered throughout a 4-5 hut village" It was the hardest couple of days I had ever had on a bike, this was another planet. I was Exhausted, I struggled with the heat all the time I was drinking loads but it came out as quick as I put it in, I had gained a lot of respect for the trails there not to be taken lightly any thing could happen out here. Survival gear was a must. I had bought with me. Hammock Spot messenger/Whistle/Compass/Mobile phone X2/GPS Medical Kit/Hydration packs Camel back/water filter/Food. Fire lighting Equipment. Rope saw/4 meter ratchet strap/Swiss army knife. We where all worn out, but happy with what we had seen. The Villages are some thing else, no Electric it’s like going back in time, the rivers where used to bathe and catch food, life hasn’t really changed that much for them, they still have to put up with all the Legacies of the Secret War. Children run and hide from you as you come tearing round a bend on a big dirt bike dressed up like a storm troopers, they dart straight into the bushes where all the UXO are some are terrified of you others just stare, but It’s never long before there smiling. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080136-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080133-L.jpg Even the local bike wash.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC080135-L.jpg Food as well http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...DSCF0270-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...DSCF0272-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...DSCF0275-L.jpg The day had left us all with a lot to think about.bier Tomorrow would be a frustrating day for me, the great thing about travelling alone is you can do what you like when you like, my plans always change, half the time I'm lost and half the time I don't care. The good thing about travelling in a group is you have people to share the experiences with, and lots more photos.:thumbup1: |
looks sensational
Really enjoyed the photos and the commentary what were the costs like for hire etc
Have done pruedoe and panama looking for a new challenge this looks great :funmeteryes: |
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The next morning I checked out of the Guest house early and headed up to where the aussies where staying, we where heading for a place called Ban Dong Doug was leading the group.
http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la.../O/Route-4.gif The Ladies where already out selling, it was a cold Morning http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100289-L.jpg Always happy. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100291-L.jpg Nobody told me that we where looking for a bank and beings it was Saturday, they where closed, We where informed that there was bank open on the Laos-Vietnamese border, so we headed up and found what we where looking for. Only ANZ cash points would work with our plastic. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100299-L.jpg The Border http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC100201-L.jpg It was after lunch and we decided to look at a couple of things on the GPS, war scrap and a museum. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC110223-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110355-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110359-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC110222-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100300-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100302-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100304-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100307-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100309-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100308-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100311-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100313-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100314-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...DSCF0391-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB100312-L.jpg The museum was closed because some minister was on his way and they where slaughtering a cow in order to celebrate the event, Doug was the bravest and took the photo they where also drinking the blood, not my cup of Tea. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC100183-L.jpg Not a great day for me so I decided tomorrow would be my last day with the group Doug had little or no time for listening to anybody else’s suggestion and I didn’t want to rock the good ship Australia. I had been given a number of a person I had never met, we had spoke over another Forum and I was excited to go meet him, he was in the pakxe Area Mapping, this was the guy who made mapped all the Date on my SD card, We had a few beers and planned tomorrows day… http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...DSCF0395-L.jpg Doug with the map, me with the GPS http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...DSCF0396-L.jpg |
Absolutely Fantastic. Looking to get there myself one day.
Anyway to post your track file to share? |
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I'll keep you posted. :D |
Turned out the GPS gets the vote, we are heading back down the HM trail Via the cobblestones I have set a final destination as a guest house about a 100k’s away in a village called Taoy and would let the gizmo do its thing.
http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la.../O/Route-5.gif Gassed up and ready,Another epic day was about to begin, this little girl would not look at us..think she was a bit frightened of us http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC110205-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110321-L.jpg We headed for the cobblestones on the trail, it was a nice easy start. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC110207-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110324-L.jpg View from the Bridge. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110328-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110327-L.jpg Old fuel cells discharged from planes and turned into boats.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110325-L.jpg Local traffic. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110329-L.jpg Beautiful day http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110331-L.jpg This section of HM’s trail has been fenced of to preserve it, the Vietnamese where all over the Expon,Tchepone area which we had passed through yesterday a very busy area with reports of Russian Helicopters making deliveries at night. Pilots who had returned from sortie’s over Vietnam and where unable to drop there bombs because of bad weather would need to get rid of there bombs before landing, no prizes for where the ended up. The trails where getting hammered, but a huge amount of personnel and equipment destined for the South Vietnam would make it through the trails, it was essential to the war effort the trails stayed open. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110334-L.jpg still smiling. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110336-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110340-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110342-L.jpg This place is steeped in History. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110343-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110347-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110346-L.jpg Village life as normal here, I wonder if the kids understood what it was all about. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110348-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110350-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110349-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110353-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110352-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110351-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB110335-L.jpg We had some breakfast in the Village and set of with time still on our side, the trail got harder and harder water crossings one after the other. You never knew what to expect as you went down the blind slopes to the river, it was always a surprise and some times a relief. Some times it felt like tunnels as you went into the jungle and would pop back out a little upstream of the crossing and ride across to the other side. |
If you know Laos you have a broken heart
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http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...PB060134-L.jpg Not much in the way of School equipment.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2158-L.jpg But still they smile. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2159-L.jpg Great people |
great blog mate keep it coming!!
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Great report
Just added to my bucket list |
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Our residents for the night were not much no shower just a big bucket of water and a scoop; think we all passed on that as we did the toilet. We found a little place to eat up the road, Craig broke out his bottle of ouzo and we got a little pissed, Doug was sorting out tomorrows route, I had told them I was heading for Paxse and they decided to head that way to, no need to go alone. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120383-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120382-L.jpg Just a hard bed and a mozzie net. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120381-L.jpg The next morning we where up before the sun and waiting for the Café to open, it was a beautiful morning so we had a little look about, no rush today which was nice. We where hoping to get to Paxse tonight. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC120053-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120384-L.jpg The Moon was still out. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120387-L.jpg Here she comes. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120386-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120390-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120388-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120389-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120391-L.jpg Village life is under way. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120394-L.jpg Kids of to School. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120393-L.jpg We went to have a look at the school, very basic, but lot's of happy children. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120395-L.jpg Although they seemed a little scared of us and run away http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2156-L.jpg And hid, we can see you. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120398-L.jpg Or not bothered. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120397-L.jpg Doug had panned the route, I was already fed up with management style and today I would reach my limit, this is why I travel alone. These sort of ride tests more than your machine. We arrived at the left turn described by the man in the Bar last night (Telecom Tower) my Gps says straight on, we go left and 10k’s later the road splits, left or right? Doug ask’s me what way the Gizmo said, I told him “back to the Tower and turn left”, “going back was not an option” he barked like it was my fault, F**k off was my reply and with that I dropped the bike into gear nodded at the others and f****d of, jeez man don’t talk to me like that. Back on my own again emotions where high and I was free, no more problems in my life until I started to feel bad about leaving Sam behind, he been trying to stop me as I left the group waving his arms at me, aaahhh shit. I decided to wait at the Tower for 20 mins; if they didn’t show up I would carry on regardless. As I waited I heard the sound of bikes coming up the trail, Doug was first and he made his way over to me and told me that they had voted 3-1 to go with what the gps said, it had not let us down so far. Turned out to be a little stretch of graded sand then some tarmac, it was a welcome break from the trail. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120399-L.jpg We ambled along until we hit a town and started looking for somewhere to have lunch, this wasted a lot of time as well. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120405-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120402-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB120406-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC150169-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PC130054-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2170-L.jpg Tensions where high that day we got about half before we all had enough and decided to park it for the day, later that evening we all hooked up to see what was going on, for me it was easy I was going to Paxse. Sam had reached his limit and wanted to go to Paxse and rest up, Craig wanted to buy a GPs card of my friend Doug and Graham would go to Attapue and then go onto meet the other’s in Kong Island in a few days, no problem, off to bed. Hope tomorrow is better:funmeterno: |
Its nice to hook-up with others occasionally, but I prefer to ride alone
btw the flip-flops arrived, now my girlfriend wants a pair :biggrin3: |
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Flip flops in the post for the GF...:funmeteryes: Back to the Trails... When I got up in the Morning Doug and Graham had left, the mutineers and myself set sale on a little route I planned the night before, bit of sight seeing. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSCF0483-L.jpg I had looked through the GPs and found 2 places of interest, they both had good written in brackets next to the name, no idea what they where, lets go have a look. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la.../O/route-6.gif http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...6-Close-up.gif We headed of for Tah H Namsai, it was off road the hardest bit was the last climb, nobody had been up here for a while the track was over grown and very slippery in the rocky sections, it was more like a trails ride with no place to stop until you got to the top. On arrival there was a small clearing it was as hot as hell, well worth the effort. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB130421-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2185-L.jpg The view was stunning http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB130419-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB130413-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB130424-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...SCF0516-XL.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...SCF0498-XL.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSCF0510-L.jpg We had about 1hr here and headed back down the climb, it was harder than coming up but we had to take the same route back to the road, then it was onto the next place the Tad fan overlook. Sam had a small of and twisted his ankle but was fit to carry on, we travelled well as a team, me waiting at any turns for Craig to catch up, then I would go off again and he would wait for Sam, clockwork. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB140439-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB130430-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB130428-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB140441-L.jpg We stopped for some food on route and got one of the best meals I had had for days, these little food places can be gems. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB130433-L.jpg We arrived at the next place and new it was another waterfall, once again we where blown away with the views. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB140445-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB140447-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB140446-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...PB140444-L.jpg After a little look around we headed for a Hotel I picked from the Menu. We arrived about 6pm, it had been a fantastic days riding and this was our hotel. Fantastic looking place with great views, Doug phoned to say that there where on the to Pakxe and could we book some rooms. I had already decided that tomorrow I was having a day off, my thumb was still pretty useless and other battle damage was taking it’s toll, time for a rest. Our hotel. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...SCF0547-XL.jpg Hot shower...yes.. http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSCF0555-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSCF0550-L.jpg http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Motorcyc.../IMG2199-L.jpg After a clean up I contacted Midnight mapper and invited him and his wife up for dinner, we dined like kings. Craig got his Gps card and also got a lesson in how to use it http://ktmchris.smugmug.com/Other/la...DSCF0563-L.jpg A splendid evening was had by all, tomorrow the Aussies would leave and I would go of with Midnight. It had been great riding with the guys, thank you fellas.:D |
Great ride report so far. Thanks for all the pictures. I find I need to ride solo or with one other person or I don't enjoy my time. :thumbup1:
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:funmeteryes: |
The lost temples of laos
Been meaning to finish this report for some time but I've been so busy planning the next trip I never got round to it, now I have time I plan to finish it.
The Aussies I was riding with have headed of on their own and I have met up with Don AKA Midnitemapper. Don's been mapping Laos for the last 10 years and has produced a GPS map with so much detail it's a real riding companion. The map below is the route from the next 4 days. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...s-routes-L.jpg This would be a great incite into how a mapper works...meet Don http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...unch-Don-L.jpg We spent the first day just poking around (yellow route) http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...les-day1-L.gif An easy day, I think don was warming me up for what was coming over the next few days, here is a few shots of our day. Don takes pictures and waypoints of everything of interest. His passion and drive for what he does is remarkable. Wish I had met him 20 years ago. First up need to fix a puncture. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb150008-L.jpg Beauty and the beast http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb150016-L.jpg Nice bike http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb150011-L.jpg Old truck http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb150017-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb150018-L.jpg Over the Mekong and onto the trails. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160065-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160037-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160021-L.jpg So many great things to see http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160049-L.jpg Irrigation. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160054-L.jpg View from the cockpit http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160071-L.jpg Back on the trails http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160068-L.jpg The next village was spectacular lots of picture opportunities http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160075-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160077-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160078-L.jpg Time for a spot of lunch, time to treat the kids. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160087-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160091-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160088-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160090-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160092-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160083-L.jpg These people where so nice, so happy..:clap: We rode until night time, I don't like the Laos roads at night...not safe. |
Lost Temples
An early start was required, I didn't know what Don had in store for me today, it wasn't until we got close that he said we would be looking for an old Temple ruins, this would be our route (green).
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...y-2-edit-M.jpg We where up before the sun and ready to move, a beautiful day was breaking http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160109-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160115-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160131-L.jpg Don was up even earlier planning the route http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160112-L.jpg Today would be hard Don doesn't hang about, the heat today would be immense and I really struggled with it. We stopped at a couple of school to have a look, the children are so happy. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160135-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160136-L.jpg Some nice Buddha statues, so well kept http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160133-L.jpg Then we got into what I would describe as a desert with trees, damn hot and my first real taste of riding on sand, which made me even hotter. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170170-L.jpg Don new we where in the general area of the ruins, we just had to find by riding along the old Khmer ancient road it was at this point that I realised how lucky I was to do such an adventure, these tracks where 100's of years old and nobody had been in here for a long time, the excitement was mounting as was the heat. Finally about 3 in the afternoon we get a break and found the Berry (waterhole, not sure about the spelling either) Don told me that these always East of the temples http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160137-L.jpg Park the bikes up have a quick look around the area http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160138-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160162-L.jpg Into the Jungle to try and find the Temple's Bingo http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160140-L.jpg Man I feel like Indiana Jones, you could be 10 feet away from this and not see it http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160141-L.jpg We found the wall and start to follow it until we find an opening http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160158-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160142-L.jpg The happiest man alive http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160157-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160148-L.jpg I've never done anything like this before, it's fantastic to see what's been done here and you really get a feeling of going back in time. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160145-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160146-L.jpg More to come...funmeteryes: |
This is the point where my camera started playing up, when we returned to the Baray (is a man made waterhole, used for cleaning oneself and irrigation as well as allowing the Animals to drink)
So this is how It looks today. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160163-M.jpg Don walks the perimeter logging it on his gps http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160167-M.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb160164-M.jpg maybe this is how it looked back in the day. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190373-M.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190388-M.jpg My Camera has given up at this point, we spent some time at the site looking around but time was getting on and we had a bit more poking around to do. It was back on the sandy trails, we would encounter a few problems along the way. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170173-M.jpg No chance, so we double back and look for another crossing it's getting dark as well when we did find another crossing it got my attention as the boards where loose :oops2: Camera is working again! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...k-bridge-M.jpg Safely across we start looking for some where to eat and sleep, it's pitch black by the time we hit a small village but we find what we think is a Cafe. We enter asking for food, which was no problem the lady knocked up us a bowl of chicken something and noodles, it done the job. We had done some riding today http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...2-detail-M.jpg Our arrival in town had caused a stir and people where dropping in to have a look at the ting tong falang, a rather large chap plonked himself down in front of us and fired a few questions into Don. I found him a little bit intimidating but that subsided, turns out he was asking Don what where we doing around here. We decided to stay and get the beers in, buy now we had the head of the village and his right hand men all around the table, out comes the beer and invitation to sleep at the police station....:welcome:. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170174-M.jpg bier Laos hospitality is great, thank you. We slept on the balcony and it was damn cold, didnt get much sleep and tomorrow would be another dusk till dawn ride. :funmeteryes: |
Lost temples day3
After a cold night and not much sleep we are woken by the PA playing Laos music, it's 5.30am and it's time to get up. We are told to go to the little cafe and get some coffee...I need this and after about 3 cups of it Dons chomping at the bit to get going, me I want to sleep more.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe.../L/Chris-L.jpg We say good by to the Boss (Benson) http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170176-L.jpg And we are off, heading south, (Dark red route after the green) http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...les-day3-L.jpg We ride along here for about 10ks then hit a village check point where we are stopped, a young man tells us that he is our guide and we should follow him, seems Benson made a few calls, this would knock hours of the journey, now I'm awake and getting excited again... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...age-stop-L.jpg We turn of the main road and into the tree desert! The sand is deep... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...le-road-XL.jpg We arrive a huge clump of trees and it's time to go on foot. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170178-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170179-L.jpg Then it's of into the trees.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...close-up-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170181-L.jpg Is that it? http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170184-L.jpg After about 15 mins of going through really thick jungle. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170182-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170185-L.jpg We find the outer wall http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170186-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170196-L.jpg Our guide had done a good job, he didn't need gps http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170195-L.jpg The Temple http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170187-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170206-L.jpg Don get's to work straight away; I'm just blown away and wander round taking as many pictures as I can. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170201-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170203-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170205-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170204-L.jpg I really wanted a souvenir but thought the gods may curse me if I take some thing from such a special place, the body laying over the wall told the story of the last tomb raider who was here..:funmeteryes: http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170207-L.jpg Looks like he nearly made it over the wall before the gods struck him down:oops2: Don at work http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170209-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170206-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170208-L.jpg A fantastic morning, Don want to go have a look at another trail, I'm not liking the sand so I head back to the checkpoint to make some new friends..... |
Once I got back to the checkpoint there was a little shop so time to refill with fluids, already I have drunk 4 litres up to this point and it's not even midday. I talked to the lady in the shop in my simple Thai and we had a little chat, she was Beautiful but would not look at the camera.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170210-L.jpg She was a little shy, perhaps she thought I was trying to chat her up, which of course I was 5555, she was not married and the child was not hers, surely I'm in http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170211-L.jpg Think she's thinking about it. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170212-L.jpg A few more people turn up to see the Falang http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170217-L.jpg I buy the Children some sweets and everybody has a drink, we having a party now! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170221-L.jpg Now I go mad with the camera, this young lady was very curios http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170214-L.jpg This one a little shy http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170215-L.jpg I think the whole village is coming http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170222-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170220-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170224-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170225-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170226-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170227-L.jpg I love this one http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170222-L.jpg Then Don turns up and a few more people turn up http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170216-L.jpg Beautiful child http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe.../0/L/kid-L.jpg Then the captain turned up http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...s-hatman-L.jpg We stayed a bit longer but we needed to move on, we where going to head for the Border of Thailand to check out a trading route... This didn't go so well for me I ended up with heatstroke in the middle of no where, I ended up in a village shop badly overheating, the kind lady took me around the side to lay in the shade. I was feeling really weird, my arms had packed up working my heart was pumping hard I was worried, Don wasn't he left me there to die 55555(I'm Joking). It was quiet surreal laying there listening to Don ride of into the distance, there were chickens and pigs running around but no other noise...I think I fell asleep for about 20 mins, I had cooled down and was feeling fine, it was 40 in the shade. I had reached my limit that day... But it’s not over... |
Don wanted to have a poke around on the way back so I headed back to the crossing and waited for him, nice smooth road and no sand.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170231-L.jpg After about 15 mins Don turned up and we crossed the river. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170242-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170238-L.jpg Ferry was not working so it was a small boat. I'm on now it's Don's turn http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170244-L.jpg All aboard lets go. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170249-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170254-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170250-L.jpg It's so damn hot, check out the new sunglasses 3rd pair this trip http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb170256-L.jpg We landed the other side and set of for Pakse, Don was poking around so I took 15 mins to cool down. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180261-L.jpg The heat is really getting to me, I just can’t seem to cool down, the animals seemed to have the right idea! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180257-L.jpg I had a chat with some locals, they think we are mad. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180259-L.jpg Don arrives and we head of, on the way we go look at a UNESCO site, another temple ruin Wat Umo http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180283-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180266-L.jpg Not much of it left, lots of History mind you http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180268-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180284-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180285-L.jpg Dons mapping everything. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180287-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180280-L.jpg Me, I'm to hot and feeling a bit weird again. I'm on my last legs :funmeterno: I wander of into the shade towards to river. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180282-L.jpg it's not long before I'm smiling again, some locals are down there fishing having a ball :funmeteryes: http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180273-L.jpg Cheers me up http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180272-L.jpg On this note we decide to leave, Dons gives me a waypoint in town and I'm gone as fast as I can get some breeze. Once in Pakse I cant believe how badly they all drive, people just pull out without even looking, damn right scary, the junctions where just a big free for all. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180293-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180294-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180295-L.jpg Safely back in the Hotel and get cleaned up and cooled of that's it for me. I have been pushing myself to the limit, I was ready to throw in the towel after the HM trail, my hand is still really sore after a couple more off’s in the sand, I'm limping, my heads cut and I'm finished. Myself and Don went and had some nice food and a bottle of red, it had been a real eye look into a mappers world I had enjoyed and made a new friend in Don, he's great company and a trail riding king, he wasn't even sweating. Don agreed I had earned my Bronze trail-riding badge, which means a lot to me, is it in the post Don? Sleep.... bier |
Last day in the saddle..?
It's another early start, Dons heading of on his own today and I'm calling it a day my poor old body has had enough and I really have punished my damaged hand to far. After some breakfast Don heads of and I'm left there thinking about the last couple of weeks, it's been amazing but has certainly taken it's toll on me, my thumb although getting X rays in Thailand is still giving me problems and my big toe nail has just fell of, I'm reminded of this trip everyday of the week.
After a breakfast and a shower I'm feeling much better I still have another 10 days in Asia should I head to Thailand and grab some R&R? Or stay in Laos. I start looking through my waypoints in my trustee GPS, jeez there is so much I haven't seen yet. Damn it's only 8.30 am I'm feeling great big change of plan I'm going to ride another day, I just don't know when to stop:helpsmilie: I decide a quick hop down to Attapue to see the Sam missiles, stay there overnight and see what happens in the morning....:D It's a beautiful morning in Pakse and this looks like an easy day with lots of tarmac, how wrong I was:oops2: Here is the route in black http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...-day-map-M.jpg Suns shining :D http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180298-L.jpg I head south for a about 50k's then it's a quick left onto the 18a, it's not long before I've encounter the worst road I've ever ridden, broken tarmac, thick dust and great big craters, the dust is like fog and there is a lot of traffic. A little further up the traffic clears and the forest starts as does the water crossings. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180301-L.jpg Not much to worry about here I've had 2 weeks training on the Hochi Minh trail, it starts to get more remote but I'm still up beat. Lots of little villages but I'm not stopping today I want to get to my destination quickly and have a relaxing evening with a few beers, it's at this point that the day changes. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180303-L.jpg This is deep fast and super slippery and the ferryboat is not there doh I walked it and decided it was to much, the rocks where like ice the water up to my jewels in places with a really strong current I could not do this on my own, one slip and I'm in real trouble. Contemplating my future a guy comes over and says he will show me the way, so I watch him walk it and remember his route, that's him in the middle, my turn I ask a couple of kids to walk either side at the back and help the guide was upfront showing me the way, in we go and its got a few things puckering up. :helpsmilie: I made it, gave the kids a few kip, the guide would take no money so I pressed on :D :D http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180311-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180312-L.jpg Onwards up the trail and more water. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180315-L.jpg I have to wait until the tractors pass, the slop is so slippery I have to help them push, in return one of the guys walks back across showing me which way to go, this is one is the deepest with the water half way up the barrel, power it trough praying I make it, then it's up the slope sliding all over the place.... made it View from the other side http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180316-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180317-L.jpg Further up the trail and the mud is like poured concrete, I'm getting stuck and it's tough going, I'm covered in mud and having a ball, but it's hard http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180319-L.jpg And more water http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180327-L.jpg Then I get stuck big time, it's like glue, I have to lay the bike down here and plan my escape, the bike will not move....:helpsmilie: http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180318-L.jpg It would take me 30 mins to wrestle the bike out, I had drunk all my water and was really hot next village I would have to re supply. It's getting harder and the fatigue is coming back, I'm thinking I should have stayed in Pakse. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180320-L.jpg I carry on and then hit a deep river, I cannot cross here and there is nobody here to help, before I even think about taking a picture I decide to turn back, I know what to expect, so the plans changed both sides of the travelling alone coin in a instance. The first village I get to I stock up, once again the village turns out to see the Ting Tong Falang.:funmeteryes: http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180322-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180323-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180325-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb180326-L.jpg At was at this point I checked my phone, I had got 2 messages, 1st from Don at 9am saying 'get outta bed and ride', if only he knew, 2nd was from Sam he was still in Pakse and wondered what I was doing, he did not bother going down to Kong island with the others and had relaxed for a few days, so here we go again with a plan change....:D |
:thumbup1: Keep up...!!:funmeteryes:
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The new plan was to go back to Pakse dump the bike and head back up to Vientiane on the overnight bus with Sam. The bike would follow me the next day on the top of the bus for $30, I didn't fancy 500ks of tarmac and the bus had beds on it, great. I slept all the way and we arrived about 8am and headed for a Hotel, Don had phoned and said his bike had broken and that he was making the same trip up as me, he also sorted out some confusion with my bike and ensured it would be with me soon. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...M-Chris-XL.jpg Not much damage considering I fell on this side at least 15 times. Brilliant bike no problems not even a puncture in 2487 K'ms, other than check the oil daily and kick the tyres I did nothing to the bike. Great service from remote Asia (Jim) who's bikes are maintained by Fuark to high standards. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190334-L.jpg So that's it for me on the bike, time to stop and fix my broken body, it's been the hardest thing I have ever done, travelling alone on the first bit was awesome it really challenged me and being honest I don't really remember so much about it other than it was very remote and some times scary, I tried to enjoy those moments rather than panic. Back in Vientiane the troops where reassembling, all the other aussies where headed back as well as Don, time for some fun without bikes. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Moto.../IMG2161-L.jpg Sam and I headed for the war Museums. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190400-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190408-L.jpg The inside was closed? so I wandered round the back. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190422-L.jpg Lots to see http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190419-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...pb190405-L.jpg We met up with all the other guys and hung out for a few days until we all shipped out, I went to to Thailand to visit the folks then onto Chaing Mia and finally a beach in Hau Hin. What a trip, made some good friends scared the poo out myself and a whole new world was opened up to me, Laos is a stunning place with such friendly people, a forgotten place in many ways that has played such a big part in our western life's today, yet most people have never heard of the place. Craig and I where left gobsmacked about Laos, so much so that we wanted to go back, so we are quitting the Jobs and heading out to Laos in November for 6 months to try and aid some good causes, more details on the website. I can bang on forever about Laos but I have to wind this story up so another can unfold, thanks for all the comments and views I will be sure to use HU once we get back on the trails. Riding the trails of Laos for Charity | Horizons Unlimited Cheers bier |
great report !!! :clap:
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The Lost Temples....
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Hope to see you in January:funmeteryes:... |
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