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Hardcore Honda CG125s in the Americas.
I suppose this should start with a brief intro, before trying to razzle dazzle folks with hardcore pictures of big cc bikes loaded to the gunnels, big mountain ranges and a pic or two of the bikes in the rain, mud & sunset with a eagle soaring in the background grabbing an animal, mid-air, in the moonlight......
Kath Kath, Rob's Mrs, is awesome, and has completed a ride across most of Australia by herself in 2012. Her username, when she's on ADVrider (which is rare), is Spaghettilegs. She's put up with Rob for quite a while, and now she's quit her job and is ready to see where the road takes her. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc1947ec8.jpg Rob Rob's writing this, and has been fortunate enough to get a year off work, to travel. He's happy on any bike, and pretty much anywhere away from major cities and highways. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps2ebe6046.jpg Elisa Elisa, aka travelbugblues on ADVrider, has joined up for the first leg of the trip. She also has a ride report (Americana in Latin America - ADVrider) of the trip, if you're keen to get her perspective (but if she says we have too much stuff and travel too slow, remember she's full of it)! We don't know how long she's riding with us, but we greatly appreciate her ability to speak Spanish, make us laugh and help us keep to a strict budget! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psce061ae0.jpg The plan Back to work in 2015 for Rob and Kath, so the plan is to ride from Chile, up to the USA, but nothing is set in stone. We may look at Europe later in the year, but that's a way away. Elisa is keen to see Patagonia, and southern South America, and maybe more. We're all turning 30 this year, and are ex-school teachers. We've just bought our first brand-spanking new bikes in Santiago, and are ready to see further south. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps388e5c82.jpg The 'Gang of '84' Join us! (will update on the road, when sufficient power, time and WiFi allow). http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps14dda502.jpg So, we flew into Santiago, Chile, as we heard it was the one of the easier South American countries for foreigners to buy bikes. Looking at prices, and the associated potential paperwork issues, we decided to buy new. Originally, the plan was to get Honda XR125s, but you could buy two Honda CG125s for the price of one XR, so the decision was made. Bikes, including paperwork (rego, insurance, plates etc) snuck in under $1500 USD each. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps389dfaa6.jpg Our three beauties: http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps27eff24a.jpg We all bought our own riding gear and luggage, and the bikes easily accepted the various constructs. Rob's setup: http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc0a7b574.jpg Kath's http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps68c87a4a.jpg and Elisa's. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psff9e07ed.jpg We looked at our massive map of Chile, and decided to head for our first trip 'goal'; do the Carretera Austral on these teeny bikes. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps2ae4fd21.jpg So far, unsealed roads have lead to speeds of only around 30km/h, so it may be a long 1200kms! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psbcd43b8d.jpg So we left Santiago, ignoring those 'run-in' instructions so instructed in our wee Hondas' manual. We left down the Ruta 5, at around 80km/h, which equates to around 8000rpm. We headed to Pichilemu, an apparently famous surfing sea-side village. To get there, once off the highway, we snaked through much pine forest at around 70km/h and didn't slow many travellers. Overtaking was done closer than I was used to in Australia, but once used to it, it was quite safe. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps9124ed94.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps69196aca.jpg Myself and Kath were still getting used to the right-hand side of the road thing, and had a few errant wonders onto the left hand side.......lucky our little bikes are equipped with dual horns and we're riding in a group! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7023dd15.jpg Once a hostel was found, we bunkered down and celebrated our first day on the road by going and watching the hordes of surfers crowd the left-hand breaks Pichilemu had to offer. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb5688e06.jpg The next day involved a real coffee (most places just serve instant Nescafe) and cake with a friend of Elisa's, in Pichilemu. She too was a teacher, and we heard her tales from life in Pichilemu; batshit crazy-busy during the summer months and nice and quiet in the other months. Work is scarce, and most locals earn their entire year's living during the busy summer months, where surfers flock to the coast. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3fdbbef8.jpg We covered a few miles, then stopped in a small town for another coffee top-up. I think we were a rarity, and when we requested it they gave us a brand new tin on instant coffee, a jug of boiling water and some milk. We foolishly asked the price after consuming, and consequently the lady pretty much made up the price. Lesson learnt; ask prices first! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf83702bb.jpg The road took us along many great roads, snaking through pine forests. There were roadworks, where we got our first chance to see how our wee bikes would handle unsealed roads. They handled it ok, if going slow, and it's just a lucky in deep gravel – think happy thoughts! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...pse6f8ddf2.jpg Despite the fact our bikes only had a few kilometers on them, we had our first race – flogging them to over 8500rpm (9000 reline) and we nearly reached 95km/h! German hostel that night. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps58298df6.jpg The German hostel was pretty swish, we were paying around $23 a night to stay, each, whilst others were paying $150 each to use the same facilities and receive the same free breakfast. We did some bike work in the morning, and everyone changed their own oil, checked their chain and put Slime in their rear tyre. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps5e4afd9a.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps447148de.jpg Great spot for maintenance http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps9aba9c8b.jpg Post-oil change carpark test ride! The day then disappeared with a mix of swimming in the pool, wandering around the grounds, a couple of beers and some serious hammock loitering. Batteries recharged. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps58298df6.jpg Still a bit behind - trying to catch up. Posting this here as homage to the folk who listed the 'how to' guides for buying in Chile. Greatly appreciated, and may not be here without them |
Most excellent ! You have my attention, small bikes and long travels are always :funmeteryes:
Thank you, -zie egret. |
The next day we were back on the road, with our fresh oil. Had an uneventful day on the road, a little more bike racing on the back roads and stopping for feeding in a few towns. I tried a traditional Chilean drink which, in a cup, has corn kernels, peach pip, sugar and water. Can't say I'm a convert, but it's certainly an interesting mix. My phone managed to poop itself, so, without a GPS, we spent a bit of time asking locals for directions. I'm able to ask for directions (excuse me, where is 'x'), but cannot understand any of their spoken directions. I just hope they point in a direction, and I then go and ask someone else in that direction. Not perfect, but it seems to work eventually.
We had a sushi dinner (sushi places are everywhere), in Chillan, and enquired if there was any camping in the area after looking at the run-down hostels. After driving past a 'lovers hotel' where you can rent rooms by the hour (which we considered as they have secure parking and a 12 hour rate), we found the camp ground. I have to use that term loosely, as it was actually a 'pool park' with pools and slides, with an oval where they let people park. Our camping neighbours enjoyed playing really loud, Mexican sounding dance music until around 4am, and started it again at 9:30 the next morning when we happily left....... http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps485af8ee.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf9aab232.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psea999949.jpg Decided to see if we could get the bikes in for the free 1000k service – in luck. Walk into town, coffee and pizza and chat with a nice young waiter. Picked up bikes, found out that our bikes have non O-ring chains, which is why we've adjusted my twice in less than 750ks.......the guys were great, and they even showed us out of town on their bikes. Things are relaxed here; the mechanics are able to duck out for an hour, while customers are in the shop, just to show us out of town. Rode along, had a great lunch for just 1000 pesos ($2), bread rolls with avocado and tomato outside a little shop. Weather was getting silly hot, and we got more water, and chatted to a father and son as best we could about our time in Chile, where we're going, where we've been etc. They also offered us water etc, which was again another example of the kindness demonstrated during our visit. On our way to Chacay, we saw the stunning, almost 3000m volcano, on our way into town. It was difficult to stay focused on the road with its awesome presence felt from afar. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps22dcfff3.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa71805f8.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps71a1087b.jpg Later, we deliberated, at length, over an accommodation. We were initially planning to camp for two nights to have a day hiking, which was around $20. But, Kath's sister had given us some Christmas money to spend on a nice night or twos accommodation, so we decided to go for it. I was well glad we did, as soon as we dumped our shit of our bikes, we jumped in the pool, found out the place had excessive cherry trees (and picked ferociously) and a pond with hundreds of fish. We then returned to the hut, boiled lots of water for the following day's hike, and had a nice dinner Kath prepared. We ate dinner, looking at a snow capped mountain, while the girls ate chocolate and I drank beer. I think we all felt pretty fortunate. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps78642326.jpg View from the room http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps01218353.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb9eda2e5.jpg Beer for me, chocolate for the girls – everyone is happy. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps989a9311.jpg Wood is used here as the prime building material; far more than back home. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa6b47ab5.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3aa60725.jpg Next day we rode a few k, then went for a hike. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps63e7f472.jpg All dirt, and speeds were in the push-bike realm so didn't feel too guilty about a lack of protection. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa56b2ac3.jpg The Andes's size is difficult to capture, but we still tried. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps80dfb0c1.jpg Volcano gazing: http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps87e3a9eb.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd20961f3.jpg We then got to the lake; Laguna Del Laja – 1000m above sea level if memory serves. Weather hot, water cold – great combo. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8748f8be.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd32975ae.jpg Honda CGs are fun for all. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps6d3260f1.jpg Back on the road again. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps86f7aa42.jpg We had to do a little highway, and I started drafting trucks. It allowed me to cruise at 80-90 with minimal throttle. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps321353d1.jpg Then, after a while, we came up to a crash where a truck had rear-ended a tractor towing a harvester. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc6b931bd.jpg The truck was a mess, the tractor was on its side and the harvester was ruined. Worst of all, others saw a bumpy blanket in front of the truck. I took that as a stark hint not to draft trucks, and ceased drafting..... Got near Pucon, and another volcano started photo bombing. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps526c821d.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psdc04cccd.jpg |
So, we had a day off the bikes and climbed it.
http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps6c9d800c.jpg By memory, we started at around 1400m, and climbed it (summit just shy of 3000m). http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps93fead84.jpg Nearing the top, you would often see the blue glacier underneath your pick. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psdb3d269b.jpg The volcano's massive mouth (there are people in the background here so you can gauge the size). It smoked whilst we were there. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3123d385.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psad1b9d38.jpg To be continued.... Next was a short ride to visit thermal pools. We found our best camping price yet ($2000 pesos/$4 per person) and even got given a light globe in the evening to plug in! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps1d61cf42.jpg The ride there was around 20k of awesome dirt: http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd623ed08.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc2fa2248.jpg In hindsight, we should have free-camped on the way to the springs, but that's always the way. There were plenty of lovely spots on flat grass, by a running creek flowing clear water. The thermals were expensive, but very nice. They had multiple pool of different temperatures. The place was immaculate and you got the impression everything was well cared for. Later though, we saw the staff putting a little chlorine in one of the pools, and the pools drain into the 'pristine' river...... To cool off, they had a waterfall which was a balmy 9 degrees. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps9fcfd6a6.jpg Still, a relaxing way to waste a few hours. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps1c52bd11.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps6e942344.jpg Then, back to the campground. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps476f3514.jpg Stopping on the way, this dude stopped at the supermarket we were stopped at, and parked like so. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps95643843.jpg Not one person tooted their horn, or got overly annoyed. I guess everyone is expecting the unexpected, and with that mentality, it's all good. We've had our share of road-related shocks – reversing down the road on a blind corner, leaving your car in the middle of the road with all doors open etc and with our 'anything goes' mentality, we haven't yet been shocked. In Australia, this dude would cop all sorts of abuse, or at the very least unfriendly looks. This dog was a campground local: http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps5844e07e.jpg Many of the street dogs are ferocious when you first meet them (enjoy chasing bikes) but very friendly once you 'greet' them. Next day, on the move again. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps81ae2d61.jpg Everyone is welcome on the roads. Stopped for lunch under some trees, to get off the highway. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps740bc9ca.jpg Our standard feed of avocado, tomato and cucumber in a roll. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps51cb9606.jpg I heard there was a brewery outside Orsorno, so we had to check it out. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps5663372b.jpg Was pretty good, but quite dear. Had a plan to ask them if we could pitch our tents there after purchasing beer, but they seemed a little too fancy for that. Back on the road..... http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps81c95e27.jpg Stayed in Puerto Montt, and found out we had to book a ferry at the beginning of the Carretera Austral. Went to the ferry booker, who didn't open, and found out from another company that the ferry is booked out for now, and only runs once a week.....so, we had a decision to make. Loiter in Puerto Montt, or go through Argentina and cut onto the Austral a little later. We chose the latter...... |
Great stuff,
You guys should head down to Quellon and catch the ferry there to Chaiten, it runs once a week, thursday as I recall. Chiloe park is nice beautiful beach, Welsh communities down there Sent from my SM-T211 using Tapatalk |
Great, small bikes are the way to go!
You can always get your feet down when needed, you can pick it up alone if it falls over, every village mechanic can repair it, and a new rear tire costs about fifteen Dollars, not 150 like on a big BMW. Hope to read more on your trip later on! |
Took photos of my speedo showing my birthday.
http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps2429deb9.jpg On the way, we saw a Studebaker mueseum – had to stop. Kath and I love looking at old vehicles. Vehicles had style back then. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps2dad0480.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd2e716fa.jpg The owner was a funny old man, who spoke in what he called poor English (for us), but is was better than our Spanish (still working on that). This one, Kath could easily sleep in the back seat. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps6ab8f9cc.jpg Again, the building was primarily made of wood and looked fantastic. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc169a94a.jpg After the museum, we again hit the road, with the plan being to cross the border early in the morning – we still didn't really know if we had all the required documents. We bought insurance on the way (3 days of insurance in Argentina), just in case it was required. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps838ac31e.jpg Lovely ride. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps2970c2de.jpg Got ripped off camping in a national park just shy of the border, ready to hope to cross.... Ride to the border was nice, albeit a little fresh. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps4298586f.jpg Then, booyah! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...pscbe082d0.jpg The surrounding area was covered in a fine, sand-like material. You could see many 4x4s had been playing in the area; unfortunately our bikes weren't suited to sand! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psee50a5e3.jpg This lake is just inside Argentina. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps77be067c.jpg Weather wasn't the greatest. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps1f29e3b4.jpg We failed to change money near the border (at banks, you will get 6 pesos per USD, but on the streets you can get more than 10; a budget game changer). But, I won at finding a brewery. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psea7d766e.jpg Decorated brilliantly. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps2ac4cf90.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psbecb5131.jpg Doesn't this make you want to stay, like until infinity? http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psdcf3e0df.jpg We cruised into Bariloche. This was one of the few vehicles we managed to overtake, and it looked like he had a working exhaust which was fine, but chose to hang, with rope, two more exhausts just for looks. Certainly didn't help performance if we're overtaking. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3a77c29c.jpg In Bariloche, a guy sold photos with these two dogs. This one was free. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps4edba268.jpg Looked in the Church – lots of Catholics about. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb9a18f2c.jpg And, eye-pleasing wooden buildings. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps406b3aa4.jpg After successfully changing money (10 pesos per dollar), we left to El Bolson). http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc154f10e.jpg |
Ride was rainy, and cold.
Elisa had arranged meeting a friend of her mother's. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps85518fb5.jpg The next day rained, and we wondered around town, under heavy clouds. But, not without seeing a disco pub karaoke show joint! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps08633cef.jpg Once the clouds cleared off, we were able to appreciate what a aesthetically pleasing part of the world we were in. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa954d5b7.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps61e69bdf.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps86cf6e8f.jpg 'Roberto' who we stayed with was a dead-set legend, and totally welcoming of strangers on bikes. Every meeting was with genuine warmth, and an Argentinian trademark kiss on the cheek. He let us stay for 4 days in his visitors cottage, for free, showed us around and even gave us free beer (great home-brew he does in 200 litre lots). What more can one ask for? http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf2b9be04.jpg The cars in Argentina are almost all old European cars; Citroens, Fiats etc. Also, bikers don't even bother with helemts in smaller towns. My personal favourite though was dude up front, with helmet, Mrs on back, sans helmet. Roberto took us to a nearby lake, and to a community farm he's a member of. 25 families pay for the land, and pay a worker who gets WOOFers (working on organic farms) to work there. The farm's yield is then returned to the contributing families, as well as those working on the farm. It was great to visit, and we wished we had more time to hang our there for a few days and get our hands dirty. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps540d3130.jpg |
Elisa's bike ended up breaking down in town. I deduced it was electrical, and pushed her back to our place with my foot on her rear footpeg, whilst Kath was on the back of the bike. We pretty much laughed the whole way. A day later, after much head scratching, figured it out; the tank!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/TmR6rDfN7qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> So, I poked a few wires under the tank, and so far there's been no problems! Back on Ruta 40, heading south. Highway vehicle! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psccea6730.jpg Chatted to a few guys on old Hondas, man they were in good nick. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps1fb05ee9.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps573be4d7.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps596732dc.jpg Met another traveller – Andre who had come down from Canada. Had coffee and camped alongside him – man his beast dwarfed ours! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps33625a0a.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...pse74bc227.jpg Got out of dodge, and started the dirt, back into Chile and, finally, the Carretera Austral. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps53d9890a.jpg We meandered, slowly, along the winding gravel roads happily taking in the many sights. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps23745537.jpg Our average speed was probably only 40km/h, but the roads were in, mostly, good condition. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps53d9890a.jpg The road follows, and crosses, many rivers – all of which look absolutely pristine. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps89d9a864.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psac716cab.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3670154a.jpg Good views abound: http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps92c26d5f.jpg But, where there were roadworks it was, umm, let's say 'exciting' in the deep gravel. We spoke to a guy from Alaska who had ridden all the way down here, but the roadworks section broke his rear sub-frame. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps78471269.jpg Road was sometimes thin. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps6473b5e6.jpg Sometimes wet. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps210daee1.jpg But always enjoyable. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf2c250f0.jpg We free-camped along here, with this just behind our tent. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps65e7356a.jpg There were some great reflections in the water when the eased. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps6c5c1b6d.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps2be01a59.jpg |
What a great photo log!
I look forward to seeing more. |
:helpsmilie:I can't see any photos!!doh
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Yesterday I could see the embedded photos, but now all I see are warning blurbs to "upgrade for additional bandwidth"... :thumbdown: Stupid Photobucket....
If you click on each of the individual warnings, you will get linked to the photos on Photobucket, and you can scroll through them there. Well worth taking a look. |
Quote:
For me it's a :thumbup1: for photo bucket. PN |
Like many great dirt roads, it seems people just want to seal them. There's a chunk in the middle now which is bitumen.
http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf72ec731.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psbe6ff407.jpg But, it ain't all bad! http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd4fa848e.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps722b5770.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps620eec47.jpg Got to a viewpoint with crazy wind. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb5466ec1.jpg My bike couldn't handle it. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa4fb35fc.jpg Did I mention the colour of the water here? http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psddff0041.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psaa289065.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps05571966.jpg Some epic landslides to view; wouldn't have wanted to be riding when this guy came down: http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps104374f2.jpg Got a boat to the 'marble caves' from a dodgy camp-site. The legitimate mobs wanted 20000 pesos, thought this boat was only 5000 ($10). They were pretty impressive, but not as impressive as Google's images would have you believe. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psbfeaecd8.jpg The boat drivers were happy to bump and grind into any hole they could fit their boats. Entertaining, but I'm unsure of the long-term impacts. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps1d5306a1.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3dbf7dfe.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb49db8b6.jpg There will have to be a pause here; Photobucket is not playing ball. Quick update – we left the Austral towards Chile Chico on one of the most brilliant roads I've had the pleasure to ride. We left here as if we kept going south, we would only have to double back as the 'track' from O'Higgins is push-bike territory. So, for us, this was the end of the Austral. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8de768e5.jpg Unfortunately, just as the day began, Kath went in some gravel and became unstuck. Just bruising to her, and a little damage to the bike (mirror, pegs & brake lever bent). http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psfcd7be57.jpg Onward we went, albeit slowly. There was, again, a fierce wind, but thankfully mainly at our backside. It was also raining. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0c450dd3.jpg We were cold and weary by the time we rolled into Chile Chico, and got a bed to rest Kath's not-so-nimble body. The next day, we looked around Chile Chico – the weather had done a 360. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps679c7a1d.jpg After a couple of days rest, we went again into Argentina and caught this little fella. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa50be17c.jpg We were now on Ruta 40, heading south. Did I say it was windy? http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0e490320.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa3e28a57.jpg Found this camp spot out of the wind – great price, and quiet neighbours. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps23269a44.jpg |
Great ride!
Thanks for posting! :funmeteryes: question: Did you found the paid campsides by luck or are they on the web somewhere or a guide book? Saludos |
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:thumbup1: |
Since Kath's accident, her bike was running poorly, and chewing through fuel. Serious tailgating was, at times, required.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps857ad6cf.jpg Then, despite our economical efforts, we were thwarted by a petrol station running out of gas. But, the police rang a guy who sold his stash for a cool 250% mark up. We were glad we weren't filling up a car..... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse4de78ba.jpg We then got to El Chalten and did a few touristy things. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1a4b5bc2.jpg It was good to use the legs again, and the views were, literally, unreal. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1f2cc5e6.jpg Outta there! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1c45f9a8.jpg More tourist, and went to Puerto Morino (spelling could be off) – one of the world's few advancing glaciers. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa4403b5d.jpg It was pretty bloody spectacular, and when chunks fell, even small ones, they sent a thundering boom to all within hundreds of metres. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2cc39e68.jpg On the way to the eastern side of Argentina, we spoke to a dude with this bike. It was around 6'0 tall. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6671c609.jpg Saw more animals, and made it to the eastern coast! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse8871df7.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psd1005ee7.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0c1579c8.jpg From there, it was a swift ride to Punta Arenas. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psda53bab7.jpg Where, there was a beer festival. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb246e015.jpg To be continued......5500k down! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps199d1aaf.jpg I've been pretty short of words lately – so here's a bunch of excuses; lack of time, lack of WiFi when camping etc, trying to do outdoor shit opposed to sit on a computer etc. But, I now have the perfect excuse to bother to write more; procrastination from uni work. I've stupidly chose to study whilst on the road, so we'll see if I'm able to sneak a 'P' whilst having intermittent internet access, no printed materials and not too much time to dedicate to it. Back to the ride......Punta Arenas was as far south as we were heading, despite being a few hundred ks from the 'end of the world' (Ushuaia). Elisa's man was flying into Punta, and they were continuing on to Ushuaia. She bought him a spanking new Honda Storm, so they both had a little red 125 to ride. So, that was the end of our journey together, and two nongs with very little Spanish would head off north together, while Elisa and Tom would head south. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf5f1eb07.jpg Whilst in Punta, Kath got her bent footpeg bent straight for the pricely sum of $2. Interestingly, we were told not to pay more than $20, as they might try to rip us off. But, I think my near-hobo look comprising of old clothes, unshaven and general un-keptness are starting to pay financial dividends. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psd78eaad8.jpg While loitering in Punta for a few days, we rode out and saw penguins. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3fc29a61.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psba72ef7e.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa61aecd1.jpg And dawdled in a national park. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps12865120.jpg |
Our, Kath & Rob's, next stop was Torres Del Paine National Park, outside Puerto Natales. The 240k ride there saw us get 60km on reserve, as we fought an amazing headwind the entire way. The final 60ks were at 50km/h, in a full racers tuck, with Kath slipstreaming me.
Then, we rode a back-way into Torres Del Paine along a great road, following a lake. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps55c2c7fa.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps20919f2e.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8a0f795d.jpg We needed extra gas for the return trip. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps385e631d.jpg We rode around the park for two days, with rain the first day and pretty reasonable weather on the second. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps43c8d123.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps67eb6832.jpg Everything is pretty dear; we self catered all food and camped. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psfd3f3e18.jpg This mob, 'camp patagonia' which we mistook for a potential campground, wanted $200 USD a night..... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf87d2170.jpg Here's a few general pictures from inside the park. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps856e43b0.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8e006bf5.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps42bf9c1c.jpg I tried to give Kath a glacier, but my ego was smashed. It never left the ground. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psd86ed25c.jpg At the end of two days we returned to Puerto Natales, ready to catch a boat back to Puerto Montt. From there, we wanted to look at Argentina's Ruta 40. Exciting times! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8701ab25.jpg Better do some uni stuff! |
Boat ride – nothing riding related, then into Argentina after picking up our new (giant) tent.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps45280d95.jpg Here we stayed a couple of days. I did the valves on Kath's bike and they were tight, which I thought was strange. Also, couldn't get the alignment 'viewers' open, so just had to guess TDC. Both Chile and Argentina's coins would either bend, or the middle would pop out when trying to open them up! Seeing as the bike's still going, it must be ok. We then went to Bariloche, for more pesos, then hit the road north, on Ruta 40. Went up a road called 7 Lakes, which was as good as it sounds. Some good picnic spots. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps01c29b6e.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse61b2b58.jpg We then began belting, at about 60km/h, up Ruta 40 – here are some pictures..... Camped here: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psbac68c9f.jpg Then, the next night in an even better spot, after some hunting to get out of the wind...... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps940fb7fd.jpg Slept in a creek bed. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psefd49ed6.jpg Was a nice night, but still pretty windy – creek bed made a wind channel me-thinks. I had a go at cleaning our cooking stuff with sand, to conserve agua, and was surprised how successful it was. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0d76cf20.jpg Back on the road.... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps40b2912b.jpg Vistas..... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf55a8c6f.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4fe0cccd.jpg Past more and more shrines – Argentines love them. They're in the most out of the way places, and often little houses are built to hold Jesus figures. They give the figurines cigarettes, money and water bottles. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6c3c1fbe.jpg On & on..... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps12043af6.jpg Most of Ruta 40's paved in this region, but there's still sections of interestingness. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psaf45fa88.jpg As we got further north, houses started to be made of mud. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps47c2bd72.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0bf859c2.jpg We stopped in a town, and got a funny feeling – the campground was empty and the guy with a hostel waited around 10 seconds before saying it was full. So, to a creek bed we go. We camped without the cover on the tent, and were treated to some of the clearest skies we've seen. Upon waking, it was great to have a look around, and again drift away. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4a4f75f5.jpg Upon waking, proving we're nongs, we found out our sleeping bags were soaked without the tent's cover. Oh well – 2 months! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9dfa903f.jpg North.... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps673238d3.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1430302e.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse7f03c09.jpg Gauchos are always on the roam, usually with a few dogs. These ones were herding horses and donkeys. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf09a92fd.jpg The best push-bike seen – he's got it right. But, given it's 2 stroke, I do wonder if he would have been better off just buying a small moto. If anyone cares about figures, my economy has been around 3.3 per hundred and 5800ks cost about $280. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps695db78d.jpg Stopped in a town we can no longer recall, and went down to a river. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps92efc044.jpg Pretty good-look'n. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9f7b0804.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1fc8f979.jpg |
We got to Mendoza, and realised there was a 'road of 365 curves', which sounds pretty irresistible. 2 days in the city was enough for us, and we were keen to depart. A lady said the road was closed, so you go up there at your own risk. I was happy with this – in Australia they would close the road, and a muppet could still probably sue someone if they cocked up on the road. Anyway, it was a steep one.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4a619720.jpg Up and up – around 1000m rise in 20km. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1ebd82a0.jpg Bugger – Kath couldn't even fix this one. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2e09857d.jpg 70km + and now need to U-turn........ http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psadf92930.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps37306edb.jpg So, around 140k later, we were back to where we started, and headed towards Aconcagu, the highest mountain in South America (just shy of 7000m). http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb469ee89.jpg Here is organised littering; giving thousands and thousands of, full, bottles of water to Jesus. I don't get it. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3f7eb7ce.jpg While we stood in bewilderment, I watched more get delivered. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0bdf4a65.jpg There was a lovely 6 litre bottle of water there which was still sealed, which, given the amount the shrine has, was taken to the night's camp. At said camp, we met a guy who made us feel like big pussies. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps16d45a85.jpg This guy, Mike, born in 1949, has been walking around South America for the last two and a half years, and has been walking around various parts of the world for years. He carries supplies for sometimes over two weeks, averaging around 30km a day. His pack is often 30kg plus. Most impressive, is the fact this guy is honestly one of the happiest people I’ve met. He gets amazingly excited over small things, is very helpful and, of course, has plenty of interesting stories to tell. Mike had few possessions, but was totally content with his life. I somewhat wish to emulate him, but not quite to his extreme extent. Oh yeah, he could speak 5 languages too. We were now on an quiet road, heading north, with great scenery to take in. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps92e084ec.jpg We generally self cater lunch, and the food of the week was cheese, avocado and biscuits. We had a nice little picnic in the shade, and even managed to find blue cheese on this special day. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5f9c55e7.jpg Onward! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps31b18ac5.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3b6a9c4f.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2da944c5.jpg Then, we hit a salt lake, so we took a few snaps. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psffd36652.jpg And feigned 'World's Fastest Indian'. However, is was world's slowest Honda. At medium altitude, 60km/h is all she has. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0fc70862.jpg We camped that night and attempted to visit a observatory, but the hours were out of whack. So, further north we trundle. There was a road which was a short cut (only 100k), but of course, there's a reason it isn't just the way. It started out ok..... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psba9b8230.jpg Began to be a bit washed out. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps39565516.jpg Then, we realised there had been some heavy rain – yep broke the concrete. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psc7aceb5d.jpg Then, in the middle, there was an approx 10k stretch of sand, which isn't a CG's friend. Pretty much 'paddle walked it'. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps697dd5b8.jpg And sometimes, you just had to grab the bike by the horns, right Kath?? http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa94c815d.jpg Bearing in mind we've seen one car the entire day, and there's this big thing in the distance...... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa9aa4cc1.jpg It's our mate! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psd87e0ca3.jpg To get him all the way out there.....man, that's dedication I cannot believe. Our bikes couldn't even summit the hill he was on (power was dwindling, at around 2500m+). Eventually, we saw our first water of the day. The reason I mention this, is that Mike (discussed above) we later found out walked that road over 3 days. Not only that, he loved it. There must have been 80k+ without water, and it was pretty warm in the sun. Hats off to that man. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4f31c2bc.jpg We then camped in a friendly town. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5374d16e.jpg |
Keep up the good work mate. Following your adventures with great interest.
Little bikes are the way to go :mchappy: Keep the rubber side down, Macca |
From here, somewhere near Las Flores Argentina, we rejoined Ruta 40.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psc4b17a0b.jpg Great road cut into the mountain. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7fb7de5f.jpg Horses, and donkeys, often have their front feet tied together to keep them local. You feel for the poor things, and feel like setting them free! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pscd6def73.jpg To an amazing view – so many different colours. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb699c969.jpg I’m actually riding in that photo, way down on the right. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3be5a422.jpg Then, to a hostel in Guandacol. In town, there’s a sign which says it’s 5km away, which was off-putting, but we persevered down the unmarked dirt roads. We were glad we did – it was excellent. A coffee pot (serving around 5-6 coffees) was about $2.50. They had speedy WiFi, excellent meals and the best service we’ve had. We were constantly bought grapes, fruit, pastry treats etc, all for free. The lady was also amazingly patient, and helped us with our Spanish. I pretended to do uni work for a few days, and these guys kept the bikes safe. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6da9d65b.jpg Unfortunately, from here Ruta 40 was blocked due to a landslide, which meant a 250km detour. Road wasn't that much better. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps34866009.jpg Seeing as we had to go past it, we stopped in a national park. There were thousands of years old paintings, and a massive canyon. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps16bcc1f0.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4526e58a.jpg Saw a funny looking animal. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf5ae1370.jpg By now, we were in cactus country. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf6f3db50.jpg Surprised to see they flower. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psae90d7b5.jpg More. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8f33a1e0.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1f6e9ea2.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps30e24bc8.jpg 250k after the detour, we headed north ready to cross back into Chile over the Paso de San Francisco. A 500km stretch over 4500m; this road proved to be our biggest challenge yet....... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps50ac4051.jpg |
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Hoping you get the chance to share your Asian ride adventures; contemplating stopping by on our way back to Oz. Cheers, Rob. |
So, we embarked on our 500km pass, over ‘Paso de San Francisco’ which connects Chile and Argentina……….
* We needed more gas. Sadly, it took us little time to collect all these bottles. Strangely, lids were the hardest to find….. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps827d378e.jpg We cleaneds the bottles and gots 15 litres. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5e0a2cac.jpg No Touratech styles here; Kath just jammed on the 15 litres of extra fuel, without paying for a fancypants fuel tank, and doing our bit for the environment. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps32878451.jpg The road was pretty much deserted, but pretty in a rugged sorta way. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps174c7906.jpg It soon opened out into enormous expanses of, empty, land. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf167e2e0.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse7101017.jpg As the afternoon snook up on us (yep, made that word up), we soon needed to find a bed or something to eat and drink, but there was absolutely nothing. We assumed there would be a couple of shops selling food, water etc as South Americans are generally incredibly resourceful. Except this ‘refugio’, with a questionable character lurking at the door: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps79deb1d2.jpg * Seeing as it saved us putting up the tent, and was a similar shape anyway, we made it home for the night. It was pretty fresh, and by now we were at 3500m. After a cold nights ‘rest’, we pushed on. I chased some ass. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psaaf6e889.jpg We scared some wild Guanacos across rivers. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3437d1e9.jpg By now, we were reaching serious, for us low-lying creatures, altitude. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps41c2b7f0.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps33d65b8d.jpg Nerd talk time: Vehicles roughly lose around 3% of power per 1000 feet of elevation, and being at around 4500m (15,000 feet), we therefore had lost around 45% of our paltry apparent 9.7hp. Also, that 9.7 is at the crank, so taking off another 12% of power loss due to the drive-line, means we were packing around 4.6hp at the wheels. But, given our bikes max power at around 8000rpm, and ours wouldn’t rev over 4000rpm due to not being tuned for altitude, I estimate we had around 2hp. Which explains our maximum speed of 30km/h on the flat. * Back to normal speak; the small tufts of grass made the surroundings a dull yellow. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse8bf43b7.jpg As the day drew near, and we crossed the Chilean border, our concerns were raised regarding food and, more importantly, water. Fortunately, after explaining our plight to the Chilean border guard, he gave us a massive packet of cookies and filled our water from his personal water bottles. We were extra grateful, but it didn’t seem right to pay off a border guard, so a handshake and extra thanks were all he received. Also, no picture unfortunately. So, we poked along. By now, it was crazy cold and the bikes were annoyingly slow, 15km/h up hills was good going. We stopped in the final ‘refugio’, at 4500m+ to assess our situation. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps164ca40f.jpg Shortly after discussing our silly situation where we had very little water, no food, it was freezing cold and had 300km to go, a bunch of Argentinians bikers came into the shelter. We had a chat, as best we could in our not too flash Spanish, and before long we were pals and we were ‘crazy’. They offered us food, which we declined as we felt guilty, but they soon pressured us into eating bread, cheese and canned meat in bread with them. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8332d90f.jpg Not only that, they left us 2 rolls, a can of meat and a can of Sprite for our onward journey. We were extremely grateful and they insisted I look one of them up on Facebook! However, shortly after they left, I got altitude sickness. I threw up what food I had eaten, and it was clear we were not going anywhere. Kath unpacked, set up our beds and did absolutely everything while I sat on the concrete step falling alseep. Things were not looking good. I was alseep by 5pm, but had awoken early, cold, and had my longest night’s rest – constantly waking up cold and hoping for the sun to rise……. * The morning came, and Kath, again, did absolutely all the work packing up everything. I thought I felt better, and having found water in the refugio, drank 3 teas and ate a roll for breakfast. Just before we left, I vomited it all up. Oh yeah, that was the start to my 30th birthday……… The bikes were covered in ice. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psd7392e51.jpg I was full of life. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9db0f5de.jpg But, we needed to knock out the 300kms, as we had a can of Sprite, 1 bread roll and a few cookies to last us the day. Little did we know, that the road also turned to dirt for 90% of the kilometres. But, boy was it a visual feast. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps87196c10.jpg Then, a rock got caught in my sprocket, and luckily only knocked the chain off without getting caught up and doing any damage. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2f2b6a28.jpg 500m later, I got a front flat. We had gone from mentally positive to mentally pissed off. I couldn’t find anything which would fit the front wheel, so we considered waiting until a car passed and jump a ride. But, who goes, both, or does one stay? Who stays? What if one of us gets a ride to a place which can’t help? Neither have working phones, or reception. We played out a bunch of theoretical situations, and then it dawned on us that again we hadn’t seen a car today. So, I had another crack at the wheel and got lucky using a shitty shifter. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6eea8635.jpg Hour later, we’re back in business and treated to a spectacular lake at over 4000m. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0703c447.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps90ab1f8f.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps546f61a1.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5342b17e.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps546774b0.jpg Unfortunately, there wasn’t much time for photos – we had a train to catch (metaphorically speaking). Oh yep, so Kath decided to ride past the world’s biggest active volcano, like a boss. It’s 22,560 feet (6,887 m) and called Ojos del Salado. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7aa00a9d.jpg Riding pretty much nonstop, I stopped for a numerical milestone. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb838355b.jpg We drank our Sprite in celebration and continued on. The border was a breeze, and we were back on the road. But, shocked to find more uphill. By now the scenery had turned brown. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psbcfc6153.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse19e6710.jpg Finally, we commenced the downhill run. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps898076c5.jpg And booked it (for 125s), down to sea level at Copiapo, Chile. We arrived in the dark, and got a room in some shitty, but expensive, accommodation. Didn’t even buy a beer, just went straight to sleep. * The day had literally been emotional. From altitude sickness, to bike trouble, lack of water and stunning scenery. Due to vomiting, I had involuntary completed the 40 hour famine, was getting shafted on the accommodation cost but hadn’t felt so alive in years. Who would have thought a starved day, filled with vomit and bike woes could make a man feel so alive. I had a great 30th, and owe Kath for looking after me so well. |
Congrats with your bday. Allthough it was to some extend shitty, i envy you guys for the truip you are doing.
Keep up the ride reports, its good reading :thumbup1: |
Happy Birthday!
I to want to wish you a very Happy Birthday. Thanks for taking the time to post photos and write up a report.
Your doing a great job of it, not just posting, but also making the journey. Continued good luck with the ride. BeachGuy |
Thanks, folks.
Will post more in a moment, the report is a touch behind! |
Quick update, before we possibly go ‘offline’ for a short period.
We were heading north up Chile’s coast, with the aim being San Pedro De Atacama (near the world’s driest place other than Antartica, but Antarctica doesn’t really count cause it can’t really get rainfall). http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pscf0ae9b2.jpg We, where possible, avoided the highway. This picture is at a touristy place where everyone buys bracelets and enjoys overpriced cocktails with rude names. Prices were exorbitant, and we moved further north. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psd1ac4295.jpg We wound up camping by the ocean, with no idea if we were supposed to pay or not for camping. Some dude eventually asked us for money (about $10), but we had no way to affirm if he was a caretaker or a clever entrepreneur. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps20c55f97.jpg The next day involved a lovely, quiet coastal road. *http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2d1f2797.jpg Before long, there was no vegetation. No trees, no plants, no ants – nothing. Apparently, this is where NASA tested their Mars rovers and found literally no signs of life when inspecting soil samples. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps08acc9fb.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0adb6d5b.jpg It was nice to sit down and eat a cracker and not worry about an ant sneaking in your pants. Then, the dry land would meet the coast. Here, we stopped in a makeshift fishing village where we drank soft drinks and watched a seal frolic in the water. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1e603742.jpg Kath and I would spend some days riding along the stunning coastline. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8a996cf9.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps10dcfe9c.jpg And having picnics in spots like this: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf7114992.jpg Despite it being pretty sandy in parts, we both stayed upright. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps03bb5333.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse3c49045.jpg Considering we were by the ocean, we were amazed at the size of the mountains. They were totes amaze balls (said Kath). http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps967a6674.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psfcdff64f.jpg Eventually, we would have to head inland to get to Antofagasta; Chile’s richest city where the average wage is over $35,000 USD per person. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6ca7ebff.jpg Mining was the game, and pushed up all accommodation prices. So, we camped on the beach. It was cheap, and the bedtime soundtrack couldn’t be topped. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8e854dac.jpg We stayed here 3 nights, while I tried to do uni work. Interestingly, the shops had 'Rogues' beer; a delightful treat (American beer with masses of flavour, difficult to get in Oz). |
Next, we left towards Argentina via desolate nitrate towns. Apparently, farmers loved nitrate and nitrate exports were massive for Chile. Until, some clever Germans worked out how to synthase it in a lab. As a result, nitrate prices plummeted and towns were made desolate overnight.
Here’s an example of a nitrate town. Was massive, now 0 population. The town was also used for a short period (after its desolation) as a concentration camp for men during the Pinochet regime (a dark part of Chile’s history). However, no prisoners were killed here, and it was only occupied for less than 24 months. A place that evokes strange emotions; we’ll let Kath’s pictures do the talking….. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5c74e6bd.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps53be6c20.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4fd8e0ad.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps34bca92d.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb91efd35.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psdee8b9df.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6ff88fa1.jpg We continued, to San Pedro De Atacama. A touristy town, where most of the world’s observatories reside (clear sky 350 + days a year). http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pscd0a8031.jpg Lots of privacy. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9ca285d9.jpg Sunsets here were pretty good, but not as good as the number of tourists would suggest. Most poor buggers choose to get taken around in 4x4s on day tours. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0ee966e2.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5e312ae1.jpg Dickheads try to be inventive for a photo while 50 other people too try to think of something original to do. It’s awkward to watch. There’s only so many air jumps, hand raises, longing stares over the edge and pretend to fall photos a man can take. It made me mad and we chose to leave. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psad365e0d.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psd3e7ffed.jpg A night later, Kath did a cooking course and whilst I was alone, wondering the streets, we sorta got lucky. But not in that sort of way. An 8.2 earthquake hit northern Chile, which we felt well and truly. Less than 3 days earlier, we were camping on the beach, 20 metres from the shore. 900,000 people were evacuated along the coast, with 7 foot waves doing their thing. I have no idea how we would have reacted, had we still been there. What do you pack first? Do you move the bikes? Do you pack the tent? Do you just run starkers to the hills? Fortunately, we never had to answer those questions. The nongs again felt really lucky. |
Just discovered your posts today, a great read, good luck on your journeybier
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Sorry, lost a chunk of the RR somehow. One day, I endeavor to fix the RR.
This cactus looked like a koala. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps91335177.jpg Then, we came across salt flats. So, took a few silly photos. I think every salt-flat photo has already been done. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5ebd152a.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps48eeeadc.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psc7226135.jpg On we go. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb00eabc1.jpg We climbed a final hill, then began a large decent. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps659cc238.jpg It was lovely. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5b4110f3.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse4a096de.jpg And it just kept going. As we went down, the weather became noticeably warmer, which was nice. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb22bebb1.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6a19ebe8.jpg Until we reached a town where we stopped for the night; Purmamarca – the town of 7 coloured rocks. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps15e07f26.jpg We were setting up camp, and annoyingly saw a guy on a BMW 1100 roll in; a guy Kath met in San Pedro de Atacama. Now, it had taken us 2 days to get here, and this *bastard had left that morning and arrived a mere 20 minutes after us. * I called him a bastard but he certainly wasn’t, we were just pissed at how far, and fast, he could do the same distance. Turns out he generally sat around 130 – 140km/h and didn’t usually stop for lunch; just ate a snack and kept on riding. Anyway, his name was Luis, a Brazilian, and he was kind enough to take us out for dinner that evening; not allowing us to pay for anything. A true gentleman. Greatly appreciated, Luis! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8791dffa.jpg The next day, we didn’t make it far. Instead stopping at a town with a ‘peach harvest festival’, even though a frost had meant there were no peaches to harvest. We headed out in the evening, but it seemed to have ended early. So, we looked around town. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7af9acc5.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3b3d2c14.jpg WTF. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8d839021.jpg We said goodbye to the local street dogs…… http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7f4a41ca.jpg And, crossed, slowly, into Bolivia……. |
We did the black route, then the blue; Google Maps said ‘no’ to our route.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps771e84d0.jpg Our entry to Bolivia was marked with seeing a common feature; people working hard. Trucks park just shy of the border, in Argentina, and people of all ages and sexes run all of the trucks’ goods into Bolivia using trolleys made from two bicycle wheels (like a large wheel barrow). Everyone runs their loads over, the kids, and even the older ladies (I estimate some are 60+) then runs back for another giant load. We could only assume that they were getting paid by the load, and work isn’t always available. In our bike gear, we had began to grumble about the heat, though upon looking behind us at old ladies pushing carts in multiple petticoats, we quit our complaining. No photos sorry; borders, cameras and an average grasp of the language had the possibility of trouble. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3bc0cb41.jpg At our first ‘checkpoint’, we paid the road toll, not realising motorcycles were free on all roads in Bolivia. However, a military dude stopped us and asked us for our paperwork. I provided, he took it away and gave it a stamp. He then asked for Kath’s, and 20 Bolivianos (around $3), which she declined. After a couple of no, no, no, no’s, he said ok, and we went on our way. We had booked accommodation, in Tupiza, but the maps on my phone don’t contain street names in Bolivia, as well as many streets. This led us to getting lost, and riding literally through a busy market with only pedestrians. Eventually, we found our place, went into town, and enjoyed cheap Bolivian food (around 10-15 Bolivianos gets you a hamburger and chips – $1.60 – $2.40). We also played a few old arcade games (Street Fighter, Tekken etc) which are priced well here, around 16c a play. Next day we went out for a look in the local canyons. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps9d38f159.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps1e3a57ae.jpg That day, we had been on the road 3 months. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps172585d2.jpg Next day, we left towards Uyuni; the town nearest Bolivia’s famous salt flats. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psce283952.jpg The road started well, following a train track, but then the road dipped into the creek. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psfbf15aec.jpg Water became more frequent, and gradually deeper. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb260aad5.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc4fb8dfb.jpg Until it was getting silly. The bikes were already slow (over 3000m), and the water would try to pull them to a halt. But, my phone’s GPS had us in the right location, so we kept going. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7ff6a728.jpg When we would try to leave the river bed, we would ride alongside the train tracks. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psea94a48b.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps55e6bc17.jpg But then, we came upon a lot of obstacles: Landslides. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8712c1bc.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps5df83128.jpg Railway bridges with dodgy little parts to cross. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps77cb370f.jpg Railway bridges which would force you to turn around and go back into the river bed. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb1ef1f91.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psfa125282.jpg Tunnels where you really, really, really hope a train doesn’t come. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psfabd7c82.jpg Little rough routes which skirt bridges. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8df8a500.jpg And, some bridges where we literally had to go over the spaced sleepers and have Kath pull the wheel out of the holes. Also, we were busy pulling fencing wire out of our sprockets. By around 6pm, we were still 20kms short of our goal. By now, we knew we weren’t on the right track, but knew the railway went through the next town. So, we set up camp, by the train tracks. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3d835fd1.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3942764b.jpg A train scared the shit out of me during the night. Dickhead train drivers tooted their super-loud horn as they passed us. Did a full sit up in bed. That said, if I were the driver I would have done it too. * Mighty fresh in the AM, but we hit the road (creek). Unfortunately, about 1km up the road the train track rose to an impossible height, and then through a tunnel with an uncrossable bridge. This left the only option as the creek bed. Unfortunately, the creek bed got thinner, and the rocks got bigger and more plentiful. After about 10k, we had the shits. We were hitting the point of no return, in regards to food and water. As there was no one around, and the riding was pretty dodgy (Kath had a couple of minor tumbles), we decided to turn back. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8f993079.jpg Back we go…… http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb5defc88.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psabdf3e70.jpg * We soon cooked up all of our available food as energy for the trip back. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...pse5f8addd.jpg The legends on this bike (family – 3 people) showed us a few shortcuts on the way back. At one stage, me and this guy (and his family) hit a puddle while next to each other. We both looked at each other with big silly grins. We spoke the same language without words. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7015e657.jpg Another example of clever ingenuity, and a lack of waste culture; a fence built entirely out of water bottles. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...pseac5f0a2.jpg Annoyingly, Kath got a front flat nearing town. But, we got back. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps49d972f1.jpg Finally, we made it back to town, where we were left about 36 hours ago. We didn’t even go find accommodation first; beer and burgers were first on the hit-list. The next day, we would try again………… |
Rushed update......The next day, we decided to ask directions; turns out we weren't on the right track (but we already sussed that; usually rivers and railroads aren't roads).
http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps61243afd.jpg Past the giant dong. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8e045595.jpg The trip again, was mighty slow. Lots of hills, which meant 10km/h. I also had the runs, so many a urgent stops were made. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...pscd81e201.jpg We were beginning to think we chose the wrong bikes for the trip. 100k took us almost an entire day. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8c2059db.jpg The next day, the road became worse. Our worst corrugations we've encountered, and some good stretches of sand. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps70fb052e.jpg Even the smallest of towns often have a soccer/football pitch. We watched from afar for a short while - looked like the whole town had come to watch. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps910c233e.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps754a26c2.jpg Then, we made it to Uyuni - a town pretty much built on tourists wanting to see the salt flats. Having our own wheels, we ducked out to see them for ourselves. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc093118f.jpg It was quite wet in parts; 4x4s chew it up pretty good. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps97523332.jpg Couple of photos, and we were done. Having seen massive flats in Argentina, we simply didn't get all that excited about them. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa4c729a9.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps280df826.jpg Next, we went to Potosi. Home of (I think) the largest silver mine. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps0eb657f5.jpg The city is a nightmare to navigate on moto (many 1 way streets and a lack of signs). In the end, we just had to ride down 1 way streets on the footpaths and apologise to the pedestrians. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc50c8a5d.jpg That large hill on the left is where all of the silver is extracted from. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc538d345.jpg I did a mine tour, and went inside. Life expectancy for the workers is short, and safety isn't like it is in the West. The shops in this town sell dynamite, as there are so many miners. I bought two sticks, one as a gift to a miner and one for me to play with later. Getting fuel in Bolivia is interesting. For locals, it's 3.75 Bolivianos per litre (around 60c AUD), for foreigners it's around 8.5 Bolivianos ($1.35). Being tightarses, we bought a jerry-can and then either asked people to buy fuel for us, or catch cabs to the petrol station and get the driver to fill it. We then give him a few Bolivianos, and everyone's a winner! These farmers' walls are everywhere. They're usually just stacked rocks, with no binding materials. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf5d4f7b1.jpg There are kilometres upon kilometres of them; often on incredibly steep inclines. They are everywhere in this shot. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3e987e3e.jpg We went to Oruro, ere we stayed a few days while I did uni work. Ate lots of street food; burgers here were 30 cents AUD. Awesome. Kath washed her bike, then it rained and hailed almost immediately. The next day we left town (to La Paz), and rode through wet clay, and Kath's bike got filthy. Then, we got lightly snowed on. We did 200k in a day, with our top speed being 40km/h. It is not fun when trucks fly by you, but you simply try to enter a Zen state and imagine being on a push bike, going slower and instantly feel fast and clever. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps40eab55b.jpg Unfortunately, the road to La Paz was also one of the worst for road kill. We saw around 10 dead dogs which had been recently hit by cars/trucks, and even saw one 'live' hit. As massive dog fans, this made the journey a little sad. To cheer us up (well, actually just me), I set off the dynamite. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf76f4dd3.jpg Most concerning, was the fact we were told that the wick lasts 6 minutes. After about 2 minutes, there was a mighty boom in a big hole by the road. When we went back to see what impact it made, there was a road worker snooping around where it exploded, so we twisted our throttles. |
Stayed in La Paz for a few days. Saw an unknown animal - rabbit with tail.
http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps4d901516.jpg Saw a double rainbow. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa7105e64.jpg Some good vistas. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7219e0a1.jpg Also, hired a few bikes for a play. It's only $30 AUD for two hours, all inclusive to hire real bikes. It was amazing to ride a bike with a little grunt and decent suspension. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps629ec5b5.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps26a723d5.jpg We then, on a whim, decided to see a small portion of Bolivia's Amazon. Here are a few pics. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps62c01c24.jpg Giant snail. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps161e2f26.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psbb3fa51d.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc73d8b63.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psed282bbd.jpg Old bird. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf93f188d.jpg This guy would follow us on our walks. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psaa7a4157.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa72f76f8.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf06d099f.jpg Closest we came to seeing a Jaguar was a footprint; it was about 40m from our room. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7389c125.jpg Sloth, doing what it does. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7ff3daf1.jpg What we realised from our time walking the jungle (around 5 hours a day for 3 days) is how hard it is to see/find animals. The majority of animals are timid, and even if you hear them, they soon disappear once they hear you. * * To be continued..... |
Back in La Paz, we had a motorcycle revelation. We had been trying a few different jets (parts in the carburetor), to get our bikes to run well, and had only failed. However, when dropping 20(!) sized on the main jet, our bikes boogied. We couldn't find another that small, but got as close as we could and relative speed was restored (could do 70km/h on a good day).
While there, there was a street festival in town with pretty amazing costumes. We asked multiple people who lived there what it was celebrating, and no one knew. Bizzare. Oh, and in the second people, check out the truck - a normal occurrence. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps04bcc53d.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb0def1ad.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd9784363.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psaa8739d0.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf06aa337.jpg With that, we left La Paz. The weather was pretty grumpy for most of the day, then as we approached Lake Titicaca, the sun arrived and changed the colour of the water to a lovely blue. We knew it was a big lake, but it really surpassed our expectations. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psdeadca62.jpg Below, we had to catch a 'ferry'. I was going to take a picture when we were on it, but there was no chance. We needed both feet (and hands) to balance across the stretch of water. We were glad we weren't on big beasts. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps4c0da77e.jpg We were on one of these things - they look like they're just made out of railway sleepers, and a motor bunged on the back. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps859fc767.jpg http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps62aa71f4.jpg An amazing amount of time and effort has been put into making 'levels', for agriculture, in all the mountains. Again, just rocks stacked up make all the fences. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd597ad84.jpg We stayed the night in Copocabanca, where we watched the sun set from a roof. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7b7c1077.jpg When we went to bed that night, Kath noticed a big itch. Turns out one of the bed springs had seen better days and stuck through the mattress when any weight was placed on it. But, for around 30 Soles ($12 AUD), you can't have it all. Next day, we got the border where we had been told it could be tricky and there's a 30 Sole, per person 'donation' to use the crossing. However, we saw none of that and breezed through. We met a mob of people on a Globebusters tour, at the border. Good people - they arrived first but let us enter Peru first as going behind them (15 people of varying nationalities and bikes bearing all sorts of plates), could have been a few hours. Cheers. http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps70376edb.jpg Into Peru – the country of motortaxis/rickshaw taxis. These awesome beasts are everywhere. And, judging by the drivers, you only need to be around 14 to become a taxi driver. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps781029fb.jpg We immediately to a liking to these things and enjoyed seeing how many people they can hold (5 is easily done) and what sort of things. They can tow cement mixers, tow car trailers (really), hold sheep in the back etc etc all from their 125cc engines. And we thought we were giving our bikes a hard time; ha! Our googling of these beasts even lead to finding that people do charity runs in these things, through Peru in India. http://www.theadventurists.com/ricks...e-rickshaw-run – we hope to do one in the future…. We were remaining in the Andes, heading north and skipping Lima altogether; roughly along this route. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3c56b22e.jpg The weather for the first few days was pretty average; cold, cloudy with sporadic rain. The scenery was still nice, and it was great to be able to go at a reasonable clip – 75km/h was sometimes achievable! Also, Peru has lots and lots of speed humps. I don’t blame them; they seem to be the only thing which actually works for slowing vehicles down. We rode through an excellent channel between two mountains for numerous kilometres. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf750ba5d.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps08e5aa82.jpg Also past, arguably, the world’s smallest volcano! http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps183ac58d.jpg |
Then, we were along a river, with mountains – all was good and we felt like we could ride all day.
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd91bd0f3.jpg Until, we got to Cusco, whose narrow, busy, one way, sometimes cobblestone streets took all of our concentration. After many u-turns, getting caught going the wrong way down streets and asking other hostels to call our hostel to find out where it is, we found it. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps43654eae.jpg Cusco’s a pretty place, but when we went out we forgot to bring our camera. I can also inform you that the brewery, on the main square, has some cool motorcycle paraphernalia, though the motorcycle & beer loving owner passed away last year. Still, a great place to plonk yourself, read the overlanders’ ‘comments book and do some people watching from the balcony while enjoying craft beer. While in Cusco, we bought our tickets in Cusco, to attend the ultimate gringo haunt, Machu Picchu (MP). The cheapest way we could work out how to get there was to ride to Santa Teresa, catch a $2 bus a short distance then walk to*Aguas Calientes which is a town just about at the base of MP. Our stingy intentions were rewarded with an outstanding road. It was in excellent condition, and rose from around 2500m, up and over to a freezing 4200m, then down to a tropical 1800m. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps68ea8d87.jpg The road goes past many ruins, and it isn’t just MP in the area. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4fa9718c.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps17a7fc8a.jpg Roads, great. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psed3ce15c.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3f65c819.jpg Just as we crested the 4200m pass, the weather changed to rain and almost no visibility. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb8b5ae76.jpg But, as we dropped a few kilometres, the rain passed. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps100de419.jpg Before the final 30kms into town along a cliff side road. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb5d39a20.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps5915829c.jpg We grossly underestimated the day’s distance, and night had fallen before we arrived. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb889a4d4.jpg We got to our accommodation via a guy showing us where it was on his motorbike, which was a cool way to end the day. He asked for nothing in return. Next day, we began the 12k walk along the train lines, to save $25 USD each. Nice walk. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psab6bc647.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa3844634.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3780621e.jpg Stayed at a real cheap place, ready to walk up to MP at around 4am. We woke up the street dogs, who sleep on the steps. They kept us company on the steep walk. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps8f15a772.jpg Reached the top, before the sun had come over the mountain, only to find heaps of bus-catchers already waiting. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse9171a82.jpg Entry was actually fast, and MP’s big enough for it not to seem crowded. Here are a bunch of pics. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb482a061.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pscf1116b1.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps45cce107.jpg Dog in MP. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4dac5075.jpg I pretty much spent the entire time wondering: How big was the rock they made these rocks from? Where did they get it from? How did they transport it? And, how did they shape them so accurately? No bonding materials in the un-restored areas. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps69cddea0.jpg So flush…… http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps5bbbc41b.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7798fea9.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc35e3fd2.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psea286986.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps1313195f.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa7c4055b.jpg |
Who could lift those suckers?
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psbc8a483f.jpg It was a considerable effort to see MP, and whilst in transit I was unsure if it would be worth the around 3 days of transit. Was it just another over-hyped tourist trap? In the end, we thought not. Walked back to town, having seen MP, got a cheap pizza and had a beer, then began the 12km walk again. About halfway, I began to feel a funny. By the end, my sight was a little funny, and I was wobbly. I assumed exhaustion (very little exercise in the last few months), and had to lay down as soon as I got to our accomm. Before long, I woke, and had instant need to vomit. Vomited from our upstairs room, down into the garden, while folks ate their dinner about 10m away. This happened multiple times, and it's fair to say I ruined some meals. But, it got better. Later, came the explosive diarrhoea. On more than one occasion, I was faced with the ultimate dilemma; need to shit and need to vomit, but the bathroom's design doesn't allow for vomiting in the sink while on the throne. It was a lose lose situation; I lost..... Had to stay another day - still couldn't hold anything down. Next day, we retraced our steps back towards Cusco, but stopped in Ollantaytambo. On the way, the road was wet. This section was deep deep mud. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps440e595f.jpg On the rise again from 1800m to 4200m we saw heaps of cyclists coming down. There's a 60km+ section where you wouldn't even need pedals. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9b5b4f00.jpg On the way back, we got the shit scared out of us. We were parked, having a snack and toilet break on the side of the road, when a truck, going way too fast for a corner, under-steered, and wound up with its outside front wheel in the sloping gutter. The road was wet, and this caused the truck to get into a slow, sideways slide. The truck's headlights swung to at us, which was enough of a sign to realise 'oh ****'. I yelled at Kath to run, and we both sprinted away from the road at full pelt. As we turned around, we saw the driver catch the slide, and continued on as if nothing had happened..... This is one side of the pass. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps38e8ef0f.jpg Here's the other. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps5e311949.jpg We both got record economy. 350kms each before reserve (8 litres). Then, stayed in Ollantaytambo a few days while I recovered and pretended to do uni work. The town has two sets of ruins, the one on the RHS of this pic, and the one's we're taking the photo from. The ones we're up are free, and the others were dear. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps553790dc.jpg This building's only entry is a tiny dog-sized hole. No idea what its purpose was. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psfab40642.jpg Built into the steep hills. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps1db3a447.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psac19e9f7.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd2723b64.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa771ed1a.jpg After a few days, energy had returned and we left. Sometimes slow bikes are a blessing when you round corners and there are animals everywhere. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse04fb085.jpg The roads were pretty amazing. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9ebb8394.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7289d41d.jpg Not a bad spot for lunch. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa9226523.jpg It was a day of dirt roads, and again my chain came off. I tried to put it back on without loosening the nut, but it didn't quite work. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd70fb24d.jpg At least the view was nice where it happened. This was right next to where it happened. Wound up eating there too. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps87944b96.jpg And, into a town where a man walks his ducks through the market..... http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps23610eec.jpg |
Markets are always interesting; many food experiences eating unknown things. I ate a whole bag of something before I worked out it was coconut cooked and coated in something. The meat section is always eye opening, with no fridges and tonnes of meat. Pretty sure you can buy cow's jaw too, but I'm not sure what you do with it.
The road to Ayacucho was a good one. Really, any road through the Andes in good weather is pleasurable. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps331389b7.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc2635bff.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc0b95017.jpg Every town warns you to slow down for speed humps.... http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psaf82baad.jpg Then we got to Ayacucho, where we stayed a couple of days. I finished my final uni assignment here, which was exciting. In the meantime, we drank copious amounts of fresh juice. A decent sized glass of freshly squeezed orange juice is 40c, and available on most corners. The lady who stayed outside our place loved us; I put away 5, one day. * Once the assignment was finished, we were ready to leave when we found out, just before leaving, that the university students were stopping all traffic, as they were unhappy with something. We then noticed every business was closed, all vehicles were off the streets and even the juice ladies weren't out. Then, we saw why. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psee9f074f.jpg The students armed with sticks and paint were throwing paint on any vehicle which dared to use the road, and sometimes whacked the cars with sticks. We saw a brand new Toyota Echo get its rear lights smashed and many families taking their kids to school on motorbikes getting covered in paint. Cleverly, they stood at the end of one-way streets. Later, there was a massive march with groups marching for numerous agendas........so you know they're serious, they're led by a donkey. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps90ecd3ec.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3977d8d0.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps38579a0e.jpg We stayed put that day, and left the following when everything was back to normal. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps248c7ad6.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse00441e1.jpg There was a different type of corn farmed, which made for good gazing. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse1060c2b.jpg More great passes. On one, my hands were freezing (with gloves and thin 'overgloves'), then I saw a local cruising on his bike without gloves and felt like a pink, frilly blouse. It was certainly less than 5 degrees Celsius. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse00441e1.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2d023b0e.jpg A town we rode through had what looked like a religious festival http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psdf700ec2.jpg And the street half-blocked with all sorts of games and entertainment (dodgems, throwing balls in mouths sorta stuff). http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6d35d120.jpg We found a bridge which was around 3m wide (a truck had to pull in both mirrors as it crossed), and must of had a maximum weight capacity. Some trucks would have to cross in the river. I felt sorry for this one; had done the right thing crossing the river but was now stuck halfway. Trucks of similar size were using the bridge..... http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps310aa7b6.jpg On the way to Huancayo, the road follows a river for a long time. We had tried to cover only around 250km in a day, but it was too much. We were stopped by roadworks constantly, one of which informed us we would be there for 3 hours until we could get through, yet cyclists were allowed through. Using terrible Spanglish, I tried to convince the lady that we're just like bicycles but it was someone else's decision who kept denying us via radio......After perhaps an hour, we were suddenly hurried through. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4fd3a501.jpg Most of the road was only one vehicle wide, so lots of horn honking was happening around most corners. The few times we did come across buses/trucks, it was a little hairy. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps827d8e57.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps88962cf5.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6a24610b.jpg Did you know you can put 7 people on the roof-racks of a Toyota Liteace? A van of this size would usually have at least 3 rows of seats in the back, so this is at least a 17 seater. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psee49fdd6.jpg The sun was disappearing and we were still short of any town, so we decided to camp by the road. It was an average spot, but we didn't want to risk the never-ending search for a better camp and run out of light, so we took it. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps66e6fdb6.jpg Healthy dinner of ramen noodles, followed by breakfast of crackers with peanut butter. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9ff73482.jpg All through the night we would hear trucks rumbling past, and their headlights would generally wake me up. A couple of trucks, for an unknown reason, at night, drove past without headlights, and only switched them on when another vehicle was approaching. We've seen this strategy done by motorcycles too, but are still none-the-wiser. On we go..... http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd4725c9f.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc31c84f5.jpg |
A really good, inspiring thread, keep up the good work
All the best Wayne |
Been enjoying the thread, great stuff. Peru, my least favourite country for riding in, they are all maniacs as soon as they get in a vehicle!
Take care out there |
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd4725c9f.jpg
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc31c84f5.jpg And, eventually, into Huancayo. We booked a hostel with parking, but had no luck finding it, so went searching through the city after the other street with the same name. Eventually, we got there and couldn't find it either. We asked a stranger where it was, and were informed it wasn't where we were. He made a call for us, and then him and his wife hopped in their car and told us to follow them. He took us to the street we were originally at, but found it. Turns out we just didn't see it. Doh. When I asked him 'how much', he laughed and said gratis/free. We shook hands, and expressed our thanks. These 'vehicles' are possibly the dodgiest we've encountered and make a mototaxi look like a feature packed Volvo. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6b41322f.jpg North, we continue. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6cd5754d.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pseb583354.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps588e34a5.jpg We picniced on them there rocks. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pscf200c24.jpg The town we stopped in that night had a wedding in the main square. We watched as they had rice thrown on them, then walk a block of the main square dancing with a band in tow. It was nice to see, even the real oldies were still dancing. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc5da481f.jpg |
Had a real cool wedding car.
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa9c50351.jpg A rural Peruvian town. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc37481e9.jpg In these parts the children are cheeky, mostly confident and seem very happy. They're able to play outside all day, without any obvious societal concern. Kids as young as 5 are wondering the streets, yet have the street smarts to not to walk on the road. None of them are locked away with an Xbox. Sometimes, they pretend to throw things at you as your ride past, and then laugh with their friends as you pass by, duck or swerve. It's also the first time on the trip I've really felt 'noticed'. Kids and adults alike like to stare at me; but then again I don't see any other white folks with beards nor blue eyes. Kids do it shamelessly, whereas adults tend to try to sneak a peek. Also, I'm not sure why, but often when we're in supermarkets we get tailed by staff, or over-friendly service. Whatever the case, we're generally never left in an aisle without a set of eyes on us. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps8398fb0f.jpg Here's a pic of the other type of motortaxi. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps083fbcfc.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psbe0e72bc.jpg These ones aren't a motorcycle with a frame welded on the back, they're purpose built. They have their engine in the rear, just above the driving wheels and are two-wheel drive. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psae4ab4fa.jpg People hire these things when they need something to move, or some people. We caught a ride in one of these once, and you often see 10+ people in the back as the drivers moonlight as taxi drivers. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps40dfa6ea.jpg Mobile food van. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pseab28931.jpg Honda CTX200. I bought one of these before the trip, thinking we would use 2 of them and ship them over. In the end, shipping was pretty dear and finding another one fairly priced was difficult. There have been many, many times where we wish we did. A little more speed, and suspension on the off-road sections would have made many days easier. That said, there still hasn't been a day in over 15,000k where anything has been too much for our little bikes. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3b852f5c.jpg Enough jabber; check out the riding. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pscb197b3f.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps33cc3450.jpg Even the mud looked nice. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse35bf03b.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps59eee17d.jpg |
This kid works the fuel station, and pumped our gas. I asked Kath to take a pic when he returned with our change. 7-8 years old, maybe?
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf8e6fb34.jpg The following day there was a couple of stunning 4000m + passes. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc67e5022.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf92aa36f.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psfd719b5a.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd9434cdc.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps8074f64d.jpg I had 'The Kaiser Chiefs' blasting through the headphones as we went over and bopped away to try to stay warm. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9b4a5966.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps1cace644.jpg The final run into Huarez was excellent. For the final 60km+ you always have snowy peaks and glaciers in sight and you follow nice pavement along the river. In these moments we both get an internal contentment work has never provided..... http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse8e6160a.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psbc0871e1.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7d2fa6e0.jpg Our approx 2500kms through the Peruivian Andes was coming to an end; we were one day from the coast. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4c7c1a36.jpg Soon I hope to finish off the South American part of the trip, as soon we fly to the US to do it all again. I'm going to be brave and look at how much we've spent thus far too (haven't looked yet), in case anyone's planning a remotely similar trip. |
From Huarez, we rose to 4000m, and by the end of the day would be at sea level. The road out of town was, again, stunning. Huarez has plenty of tourists who climb the peaks, but they're good enough for us from a distance.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps68666fad.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps93b831e3.jpg Trees can't even handle Kath's speed and thrust! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5ca55913.jpg Once at around 4000m, there's a big downhill......the road it weaves its way through the bottom left of the picture. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1fce181b.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7e8a43ca.jpg As you get closer to the coast, and sea level, the scenery changes drastically. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psfd34c0ef.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pseeb1cac4.jpg Much like northern Chile, there's just desolation and sand. For a short period, we were along the Pan-American. Our bikes, now at sea level, actually felt fast! We even overtook this guy: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7b7efa3c.jpg Into Trujillo, where we stayed a couple of days and saw some impressive structures. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9b3f9962.jpg Amazingly, these were unknown until the 1980s. According to our guide, the buildings were covered in sand and found by a combination of local kids playing soccer with sculls and sandboarders sliding down the hill and finding solid objects. It's pre-Inca (built approximately 500 AD), and used more blocks than the Egyptian pyramids. It was build in stages, with each generation or so building another external layer to the structure. In all, there are 9 'stages' to the building, with still unknown tombs etc lurking within. It was pretty fascinating, especially considering the weather it's been subjected to and the condition of the carvings (it still has the original licks of paint). It's called 'The Temple of The Moon', in English. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps130cdee7.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4c831075.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps700c4fef.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7b875f57.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps169017ca.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps844e88df.jpg Hairless pre-Inca dog breed. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7b875f57.jpg |
From here, we headed north. According to my phone's maps, there was a map right along the shore which got us off the Pan-American. I should have known by now that my phone likes to lead me astray, but I took it at face value. We entered a little town, looked for the road and all there was was sand. Just outside of the town, was covered in litter, yet only perhaps 100m from the ocean. We saw a lady take a rickshaw/mototaxi about 1km out of town and throw all her rubbish on the sand. It's a tricky scenario; no councils collect the rubbish, they don't want the rubbish outside their house and possibly can't afford to catch a taxi to the tip (if it exists) every week to dump their rubbish.
Back to the sand, we figured it was only 20kms up the beach to the next town, so maybe we could ride it? Yes! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps10db26de.jpg Woohoo! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0890e4ae.jpg Until the first sand dune..... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5c91a3cf.jpg * Doh. So, I just had a play. Well, as much as you can on a 125 roadbike. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0cb0e9b4.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9378ba2f.jpg Until, my chain fell off. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7655fc4e.jpg We backtracked into Chiclayo and found a cheap bed. Our South American journey was, by now, drawing to a close and we were beginning the thoughts of selling the bikes. While in Chiclayo, we visited a few shops to see there was any interest. One shop told us they would buy them, tomorrow. We returned, and asked about a dozen different other shops, but it seemed the Chilean registration was a big issue. One guy, we couldn't comprehend took us on an extended taxi ride to, as we found out, a lawyer and registration place but it was without success. We were only asking around $350 US dollars for each bike, but still the paperwork part was the hassle (frown upon people skipping import taxes). * We bumped into a guy at our accommodation who informed us to 'go to the jungle', where we would be able to sell the bikes where rules are more 'manipulative'. So, off we went. 400kms of nice riding, to Chachapoyas. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3d0e0066.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps40cedd18.jpg The road goes under the rock here. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps12c8e654.jpg Here too. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pse6495348.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7dfab9eb.jpg Good stuff. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps78121e18.jpg After much mucking around, we eventually sold the bikes. In the end though, we sold them to a jerk, who pretty much was the worst buyer. 1. Doesn't turn up when he says he would. Twice. 2. Turns up late. 3. Turns up smelling of beer. 2. Tries to undercut the agreed upon price. Yet, tells you money isn't an issue. 4. Tries to pay partially in coins. * Despite him being a jerk, we were glad we sold them. * We now had a few weeks being bikeless. How would we cope? Tell you soon. |
In Chachapoyas, we now wandered the beautiful streets. It’s a nice, small, clean, safe town with narrow streets.
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf9c3b4e9.jpg We took a bus (what we were now resigned to) to see Kuelap (a pre-Inca ‘fortress’ atop a stunning mountain). Check out the size of the walls; the most awesome defensive position. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps499f616f.jpg There are high walls surrounding the entire fortress, with only two narrow and long entrances. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psced3fafc.jpg They were clever too. In this picture, you will see a ‘gutter’ above the wall. They used these as they understood that if the foundation got wet, the structure would fall sooner. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps514416a0.jpg Me and the guys going in the ‘rear’ entrance (insert innuendo here). Long and thin (insert innuendo here…….). http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf01393a2.jpg Their buildings were round too. Apparently because they’re easy to make, and have better earthquake resistance. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse78e5ef2.jpg Inside the round homes are holes, as below. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0a827c4a.jpg To remember their dead, they buried them under their house and slept just above them….. So many bricks made…….. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf0893f68.jpg This one is inside the ‘fortress’.*Who’s going to climb this sucker? Staggering workmanship, how did they build this? http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps863d84bd.jpg Some homes had decorations, to show rank or something similar. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps803e36ae.jpg Other entrance. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf2ccd709.jpg From this vantage is where the occupiers could stone any unwelcome visitors, and the blood could just drain down outside……nifty, huh? http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc2698424.jpg This is the road we didn’t get to go on because we sold our bikes (it’s the road to Kuelap). http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7edd3531.jpg I just looked at that road, with the same longing look as this dog (I had food). http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb061696d.jpg |
We awkwardly bused it to Ecuador, and stopped in Loja. Buses are cheap, but you miss everything. I say awkwardly because of the amount of gear we had (we could barely walk 20 metres without having to put our stuff down).
Loja had a great brewery, where we watched an Ecuador World Cup game. Not a massive soccer fan, but the excitement is infectious. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psfebb4913.jpg * Ecuador won, and we walked the streets hoping to see crazy excitement, but the streets were unfortunately very tame. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2021b2f8.jpg I liked their ‘cards’, when you order a beer they tick it off on your card, and the staff have a card too. That way, come bill time, there are no disagreements. Years ago I worked in a bar and this was a common occurrence. Guys would say they haven’t had that much, unless a female was nearby and they would often say, with a little extra volume, ‘Jeez, we drank X beers? Wow/huh, didn’t realise that’. Not once did I see a lady impressed. But, I digress…… * Next, bus to Quito. A city we quite enjoyed, for a city. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psba961315.jpg Impressive buildings/churches. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps17ab3981.jpg I couldn’t help feeling a little awkward when looking in some of the many ridiculously overdone expensive churches…. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps8ac20eff.jpg Then walking outside and seeing many people financially struggling. This lady shines every single apple, before carefully placing them in a bag to try to sell for $1. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2111a71b.jpg But, then you see something cool like this and mood is lifted. Spot the jealous dog? http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps691f3fc2.jpg We stayed at a cheap hotel (16 USD a night) with lovely owners. They took us to the equator one day, just because they wanted to show us some of the city. It really would have been cool to ride there, to have a ‘final destination point’, but it just didn’t work out life that. Apparently it’s the only place you can balance an egg on a nail, but my bullshit sensor got tingly. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6efce271.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc33f64dd.jpg Lovely people. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps721220ef.jpg We were trying to get an interview at the US embassy, to extend our stay but couldn’t get an appointment for days…..so itchy feet had to be scratched. We hired bikes/scooters. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps988a5be4.jpg |
Great trip. Thanks for sharing with us. I loved my Honda CG 125 too :)
http://motorradtouren-suedamerika.de/?report=suedamerika |
Quote:
Reminds me of the mechanic in India who tried to pay partially in obviously fake 100 rupee notes. PS Rob, Is there not an option of selling to foreigner? my XR is registered in Chile and I often flirt with the idea of riding to Colombia, but I`m worried about losing too much of its value due to having to flog it to similar drunk unpunctual men. |
After getting out of the city (which was far better than expected; Ecuadorians are far more sedate than Peruvians), we hit lovely country. Gas here folks is $1.50 a gallon, and diesel $1 a gallon.
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps016da393.jpg Great to be back on the road! http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2e7c7276.jpg Everything is green and awesome. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0b45a1eb.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9c9c069e.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psaf58ac41.jpg Then, I got a flat. They gave me a snot-on-a-string to fix it, and a compressor. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0b8475f8.jpg Problem was, we couldn’t run the compressor as they didn’t provide the tools to access the battery…..So, with no cars where we were, we had to walk/idle back to a tiny town and ask around. There were two cars, and the legend who owned this one let me use his battery. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps21ebda55.jpg We arrived in town (Mindo) in the dark, but had a mean burger and found great accommodation. Frog in room found an ant. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps8f485871.jpg Hardcore motorcyclists like us, like to do hardcore things. So, we visited a butterfly farm. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psdedda722.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3a5251bc.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps46f29959.jpg They liked banana. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9c9b196b.jpg Heaps of furniture was made of bamboo. I wish this kind of stuff lived near us. We asked about it and once you have good sized roots, you can just cut them off at the stem, and 5 years later you’ll have another one to cut. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa4816cb1.jpg |
We lounged around, watched more soccer, drank beer and swam in the accommodation’s pool. I could retire there, everything is green. The town is neat, has no crime and costs $0.06 per square foot of jungle/rainforest land. Apparently many foreigners are starting to buy large chunks of it.
We were going to hire the bikes for 3 days, but if we got them back within 48 hours, we would only get charged for two. So, we got up early and, after spending half an hour looking for toucans unsuccessfully, headed back. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse822ad87.jpg http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0c833d31.jpg 10 inch wheels on dirt roads were some kind of slow, but still fun. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb508ae26.jpg Back to Quito……. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2d8cb586.jpg Made it back in 48 hours – woohoo! We weren’t entirely happy with the overall rental experience there, but it sure beat hanging around in the city. * So, we were down to 48 hours until we flew out to the USA, and had our interview. A good bearded man conducted it, for 3 minutes, and the US embassy were kind and issued us visas in 24 hours. We picked them up less than 24 hours before we flew out. We were excited. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps37755423.jpg Had we not received them, our US trip would have to be rushed (something Rob doesn’t do well) and cut shorter than planned. Nongs got lucky again. USA, here we come! |
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