Meanwhile we have been trying to find out our options. Wolfgang was at BMW at 730 am, but they do not have an OEM shock in stock, nor do they in Munich, BMW parts centre will not ship the part except to a dealership, and that will not arrive on time. Wolfgang in Hamburg managed to source a shock from YSS (half the price of BMW) and they say they can ship today for arrival Tbilisi 5 days time. We also found HU HUBB a mechanic who will help us out. This leaves us 1 day to get to Yerevan, but pretty much screws up our tour in the east go Georgia and any of Armenia.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4203/3...702a53c1_b.jpg18816760_1346570742091686_701800026_n by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4236/3...7393c705_b.jpg18834729_1346504578764969_206780900_n by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This whole ordeal was made possible by Wolfgang with the help of Thomas at TWOWHEEL suspension shop. That sounds easy, but involved Wolle making many phone calls, driving all over Hamburg, and a lot of frustration. Fed Ex and DHL wanted 350 Euros to ship, but he finally found on line and confirmed with UPS that they would ship for 90 Euros. Problem 1 the first shock Thomas was sent was covered in oil and he checked it and it was faulty…. Get a second shock, tested, good, go back to UPS.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4218/3...559d7221_b.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-02 at 19.10.33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4270/3...d0943f12_b.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-02 at 19.10.07 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4216/3...17239d2c_b.jpg18870141_1347003018715125_148853950_o by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4271/3...b2f8a2e6_b.jpg18838406_1346772602071500_648363828_o by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Quote from UPS was for 5 kg…get to UPS is 5.3 kg and now 180 Euros….Very nice lady at UPS says “hmm its 5 kg” and 90 Euros. Wolfgang arranged all the paperwork for the “dangerous” goods transfer and shipping. We all celebrate!!!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4251/3...14f79554_b.jpg18901390_1346771385404955_1560590826_o by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/3...b6d4f15f_b.jpg18902233_1347968715285222_690949775_n(2) by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Problem 2 -9 pm we all get an email package is blocked as dangerous and they will not ship. Problem 3 UPS calls to say they have now lost the package. Poor Wolfgang up at the crack of dawn again to get a third shock, get Thomas to test it, and then spend all day finding a company that will ship it. Problem 4 TNT says they will ship this third shock as dangerous goods, but they close at 6 pm. At 555 pm while Wolfgang is at TNT he finally gets a call from UPS….the shock was sent, the night guys decided it was ok to send on, but did not document this or change the halt order on the tracking, nor did they inform the other UPS people. So All Wolfgang and Thomas’s work today was in the end for nothing! Luckily they had not shipped the third shock yet! Thanks mail box etc.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4268/3...cbc0ecdd_b.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-01 at 21.30.31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4274/3...370047a6_b.jpg18767636_10154621770587337_7865887831200952723_n by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

While all this is going on we are moving from Zugdidi to Gori staying on the main road to make it easier on my pogo stick. We stopped on the way at a gas station to get an update on wifi, and then arrived to the guest house to find they had no internet due to construction on the system. We walked into town 1.2 km and toured the Stalin museum as Gori is his birthplace. It was a bit weird and they call him a hero and gloss over the bad stuff. We finally found a restaurant with wifi and camped out there for several hours getting updates from Wolle, booked a place in Tbilisi for the next 3 days, planed our route for the next days and confirmed the oil changes. Finally at 8 pm our time we heard the good news that the shock will arrive to Tbilisi on June 6-7 th.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4262/3...b02e5c86_b.jpg18835773_1348500125232081_9216230674091424723_n by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This is when we must be in Yerevan Armenia to apply for the Iran visas. Lucky for us Orvar has his already and he also does not need an Armenian visa (ours are single entry) and can stay behind on June 6 when we leave or maybe he will ride back to Tbilisi to pick it up for us. Or if we have no numbers we will wait it out.

Today we are riding from Gori to the capital Tbilisi where we will bunk in for 3 - 4days.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4240/3...e7574ff3_b.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-02 at 21.30.42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4231/3...8fa8f0c5_b.jpgGori 2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4257/3...09912d24_b.jpgGori 3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The first stop was to the cave city of Uplistsikhe, which is identified by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4195/3...c11285b3_b.jpgTblisis by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/3...0e640b3e_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4234/3...8cbcb402_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4265/3...4fd43dd2_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4290/3...207bd641_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4229/3...1bc45af6_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4260/3...6a254b19_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4280/3...a3eb1863_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4221/3...030b1146_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/3...28b04e8f_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4235/3...e0b1b99e_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4254/3...fd3fbfce_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From here we continued on the 63 to Mtskheta, which is the old capital and then on to Tblisi. It is super windy today, but luckily we mostly had tail wind. We booked into a hotel just off the S1 and north of the city.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4221/3...628f746f_b.jpgTblisis-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4209/3...3385acae_b.jpgTblisis-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We arrived to the hotel and were warmly welcomed. Too warmly as we were plied with Georgian wine and chacha (Georgian hazelnut and honey brandy). So much that we were drunk by 2 pm. We had to get a schwarma and then we were all asleep by 4 pm!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4236/3...111f8daf_b.jpg18814849_10203483513365403_2177793691995855763_o by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4220/3...04611fd7_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4204/3...f9718ddb_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The guys will do a day ride out to Omalo, but as its mostly off road poor Lulu can not go. This way they can go without luggage. Trevor has some really cool video.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/3...afc0fa4f_z.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-02 at 21.33.16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4213/3...8c4b9a10_b.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-02 at 21.33.44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4245/3...c5d34009_z.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-02 at 21.34.03 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4255/3...0d198909_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4199/3...42ebe4c9_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4281/3...a9937dce_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4261/3...464def51_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4260/3...a8fde4b1_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/3...307e7075_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


This was a long day and they turned back so they would make it back before dark.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4195/3...32ef88b7db.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-04 at 22.45.40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4262/3...d297960b_z.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-04 at 22.51.11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4276/3...aa0a5207_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4257/3...36d6d8ec_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4261/3...fdaaaefb_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4216/3...9b40046e_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4261/3...7d1b0f27_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/3...db679490_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4250/3...2427526c_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4261/3...693971f4_b.jpgOmalo & Tblisi-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Hope you get sorted soon, enjoying armchair travelling with you guys now :-)

Gino & Fiona

Looking at that mud and steering with my butt cheeks!

Yes we are! Thanks mostly to our friend Wolfgang in Hamburg who got us the new shock and someone who would ship it. Dan and the mechanic in Tiblisi put it in on Tuesday. Better than the old one for sure!!! Loved your Nepal videos. You two are troopers!! xo Sara

Wolfgang has done a mini blog of the ordeal of the shock!!! Shown how much work he put into this.

We had been contacted in Tiblisi by a Belgian rider Joris who we knew from FB and he was headed to the city with a German rider Ben. They asked for a hotel recommendation and if we were still in the city. So we had an even bigger biker gang at the Hotel Mimino. More Chacha. It was nice to have a kitchen and cook for everyone.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4196/3...59d379ab_b.jpgTblisis-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Sunday we decided to play the tourists. Another guest here from Switzerland had told us how to get downtown by public transit. We managed to find the “collectivo #6” on the main road nearby and this took us into the old city. Here we did a bit of walking to freedom square and then to visit several of the churches. There is a strange contrast as the fortress and old town are on one side of (the very stinky) river and there are ultra modern structures on the other. Our chef Orvar whipped us up an amazing spaghetti and meatball feast.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/3...a899839e_b.jpgTblisi-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

These walnut dipped in thickened grape juice are for sale everywhere. We finally had to try some...not a repeat treat.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4228/3...e8a4f8f2_b.jpgTblisi-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4220/3...617a6d35_b.jpgTblisi-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4247/3...99bc58fb_b.jpgTblisi-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4242/3...8eace662_b.jpgTblisi-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4216/3...4f2c6935_b.jpgTblisi-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4206/3...acdf7b81_b.jpgTblisi-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/3...9421f972_b.jpgTblisi-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4230/3...56edbcd1_b.jpgTblisi-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4284/3...d71f97bb_b.jpgTblisi by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4234/3...7d2d75ca_b.jpgTblisi-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4287/3...a894eeef_b.jpgTblisi-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Meanwhile we have been watching the tracking and the package has been in Germany all weekend, but on Monday am it Arrived in Moscow! The first event of the day it to brave the Georgian drivers and get to Pit Stop Moto for oil changes on the 3 BMW’s. Again Georgian drivers are a real challenge. The guys at the shop were great and efficient.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4207/3...27f747e7_z.jpgScreen Shot 2017-06-08 at 17.55.59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4205/3...7650ce4b_b.jpgTblisis-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4199/3...aeb7dcdd_b.jpgTblisi by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


We were contacted by Ana from UPS who was super helpful. She flagged the package urgent and said it might be here Tuesday. She also told us that we needed to go to a revenue services office to get a duty exemption form.


We had a small incident with the 650 even though they were being very careful the bike fell from the stand and the ABS sensor was damaged. We did not see this until we were leaving and the RED ! was still on 2 blocks later. We stopped, checked the oil and then returned to the shop. They were very apologetic and the owner very accommodating. They said they would do what ever it took to fix the situation. It is possible to get a Bosch part on eBay from Lithuania, a BMW from Athens, or they were willing to pay us the 150$USD for the part. Nice guys.


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4227/3...6dfbe3c7_b.jpgTblisi-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4241/3...d5c70178_b.jpgTblisi-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
While we were there 4 Czech guys showed up to buy tires to add to their luggage.


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4228/3...9f07f80c_b.jpgTblisi-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr